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John M. Barber.
Born February
2nd. 1796.
The portrait is from a Photograph-It represents the Author with pencil and portfolio in hand in the act of sketching from nature- The likeness will be recognized by many in all parts of our Country, who saw him while on his tour through the Union collecting materials and taking Sketches for the Engravings in this work.
OUR WHOLE COUNTRY:
OR THE
PAST AND PRESENT
OF THE
UNITED STATES,
HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE.
IN TWO VOLUMES,
CONTAINING THE
GENERAL AND LOCAL HISTORIES AND DESCRIPTIONS OF EACH OF THE STATES; TERRITORIES, CITIES, AND TOWNS OF THE UNION; ALSO, BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF DISTINGUISHED PERSONS, TOGETHER WITH A LARGE AND VARIED COLLECTION OF INTERESTING AND VALUABLE INFORMATION FOR ALL CLASSES, RELATING TO EVERY PART OF OUR COUNTRY FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC.
ILLUSTRATED BY SIX HUNDRED ENGRAVINGS
PRESENTING VIEWS OF ALL THE CITIES AND PRINCIPAL TOWNS—PUBLIC BUILDINGS— BIRTHPLACES AND SEATS OF EMINENT AMERICANS—PUBLIC MONUMENTS AND THOSE OF THE ILLUSTRIOUS DEAD—BATTLE-FIELDS—HISTORICAL LOCALITIES —RELICS OF ANTIQUITY—NATURAL CURIOSITIES, ETC., ALMOST WHOLLY FROM DRAWINGS TAKEN ON THE SPOT BY THE AUTHORS, THE ENTIRE WORK BEING ON THEIR PART THE RESULT OF OVER
16,000 MILES OF TRAVEL AND FOUR YEARS OF LABOR.
BY JOHN WARNER BARBER,
Author of Historical Collections of Connecticut and Massachusetts, etc.
AND
HENRY HOWE,
Author of Hist. Coll. of Virginia, Ohio, and the Great West.
VOLUME II.
CINCINNATI:
PUBLISHED BY HENRY HOWE, NO. 111 MAIN-STREET. SOLD EXCLUSIVELY BY SUBSCRIPTION.
1861.
Entered, according to act of Congress, in the year 1861,
By
HENRY HOWE, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of Ohio.
CINCINNATI:
E. MORGAN & SONS, Stereotypers and Publishers, III Main St.
Arms Of Florida.
Motto;
IN GOD IS OUR TRUST.
Florida
was first discovered by Sebastian Cabot, sailing under the flag and patronage of England, in 1497, but he did not land to examine the interior of the country. In 1512 and 1516, Ponce de Leon, one of the companions of Columbus on his second voyage, explored the country to some extent, and gave to it the name which it still bears, It was called
Florida
it is said, from the circumstance of its being discovered on
Palm Sunday
or, as others say, from the numerous
flowering
shrubs which in many places give the country such a beautiful aspect.
In 1528, Narvarez, a Spaniard having obtained from Charles V the indefinite grant of “all the lands lying from the river of Palms to the cape of Florida,” sailed in March from Cuba, with five ships and four hundred men, for the conquest of the country. Landing on the coast, he marched to Apalache, a village of forty cottages, where he arrived on the 5th of June. Having lost many of his men by the natives, with whom he had a sharp engagement, he was obliged to retreat to his shipping. Sailing to the westward, he was lost, with many others, in a violent storm, about the middle of November, near (it is supposed) the mouth of the Mississippi. His people, with great difficulty, provided a kind of boat to cross the rivers on their way, making their ropes of horse-hair and their sails of soldier's shirts. In conclusion, only fifteen were left alive, four of whom, after almost incredible suffering, arrived at Mexico eight years later.
In 1539 Ferdinand de Soto, who had been an officer under Pizarro, sailed from the island of Cuba, of which he was governor, with about one thousand men, and landed on the western shore of Florida. From the Gulf of
49
In 1763 Florida was ceded to Great Britain in exchange for Havana. Liberal offers were now made to settlers from abroad, and, in consequence, numerous respectable citizens from the British settlements, and even a body of some 1,500 people from the shores of the Mediterranean, were induced to emigrate to Florida. A portion of the territory known as
West
Florida was conquered by the Spanish governor of Louisiana, in 1781, and the whole was surrendered to Spain, by the treaty of Paris, in 1783.
In the war of 1812, with Great Britain, the latter power, disregarding the neutrality of the Spanish territory, introduced her emissaries into Florida to arm the savages against the frontier settlers; and not only this, but British fleets entered the ports, and garrisoned the forts, of west Florida. After the war had terminated, and the treaty of Ghent had been ratified, British emissaries make Florida the theater of renewed operations for involving the United States in another Indian war. This was done from the opinion expressed by Lord Castlereagh, that the ninth article of the treaty of Ghent virtually entitled the Creek Indians to a restoration of all the lands they had relinquished to the United States by the treaty of Fort Jackson. Therefore, the inference that England should assist the Indians, they “being the independent
allies
of Great Britain.” Captain Woodbine, a British officer acting under the orders of Colonel Nichols of the royal navy, conducted a colony of negro slaves about twenty-five miles up the Appalachicola River, and there built a strong fort as his head-quarters, which was well supplied with munitions of war from the British fleet, for the use of the negroes and Indians. The commandant of the fort was Gaçron, a French negro, in connection with Red Sticks, a Choetaw chief, and it was garrisoned by one hundred negroes and a few Indians. From this general rendezvous marauding expeditions were sent out against the Georgia frontier.
As a protection to the American settlements, Camp Crawford, just above the Florida line, was garrisoned by United States troops under Colonel Clinch. In August, 1816, Colonel Clinch, with one hundred choice men under Major Muhlenburg and Captain Zachary Taylor, and a body of friendly Indians, made an attack on the fort, when a red-hot shot penetrated the magazine, involving nearly all the inmates in one indiscriminate destruction. Three thousand stand of arms and six hundred barrels of powder were destroyed. Garçon and Red Sticks were delivered over to the Indians and tortured to death. Woodbine had escaped the evening previous.
Next day intelligence was received of the approach of a body of hostile Seminoles, but, as Colonel Clinch was well prepared to receive them, they declined making an attack. Such was the commencement of the first Seminole war in Florida.
After the destruction of the negro fort, Colonel Nichols, from the island of New Providence, dispatched Alexander Arbuthnot, a British officer, to succeed Captain Woodbine in his diabolical operations. He arrived in Florida in the guise of a British trader, in the year 1817, and, simultaneously, the war-whoop resounded through the forests, and the blood of American citizens began to flow along the George and the Alabama territory.
In December, 1817, Gen. Gaines destroyed an Indian town on Clinch River. The Seminoles embodying in large numbers upon the Clinch and Appalachicola Rivers, and upon the St. Mary's, near the frontiers of Georgia, General Jackson, early next
At St. Marks, upon the Appalachee River, was a strong Spanish fort, mounting twenty heavy pieces of ordnance. General Jackson ascertaining that the Indians were supplied with ammunition and aid from the officers, appeared before the fort and demanded its surrender. This was complied with, and the garrison permitted to retire to Pensacola.
Some two thousand Seminoles had assembled at the Suwanee towns, about one hundred miles south-east of St. Marks, where they were supplied with arms and ammunition by Arbuthnot. General Jackson next marched thither, when the Indians, after a little show of resistance, fled; but three hundred and forty runaway negroes made a desperate stand, and were defeated.
The notorious Arbuthnot, and his colleague, Ambrister, were at this time taken prisoners, tried by a court martial, General Games presiding, and found guilty of exciting the Indians and negroes to commit murder upon American citizens. General Jackson refusing to interpose, they were sentenced to a speedy death—Ambrister by shooting, and Arbuthnot by hanging. The latter was a young man of elegant appearance, a lieutenant of marines in the British navy. He died like a weak woman, repining at his fate.
The perfidious Spaniards at Pensacola having countenanced the hostile Indians, Jackson next marched thither and entered the town unmolested, while the governor, with his troops, retired to Fort Barancas. Jackson took up a position before the fort, and, in the night, threw up a breastwork In the morning the Spaniards opened their fire upon it, which the Americans returned, and were preparing to storm the fort, when the Spaniards concluded it wise to capitulate. The governor and garrison were thereupon permitted peaceably to retire to Havana. A day or two subsequent, May 29, 1818, Jackson issued a proclamation to the inhabitants of West Florida, stating the necessity, on the ground of self-defense, of his taking possession of Pensacola, and promising protection to all Spanish subjects, and that the laws of Spain should remain in force.
All of Florida was now in the virtual possession of the United States. The federal government, regarding its annexation as vital to the security of the southern frontier, opened negotiations for its purchase from Spain. On the 22d of February, 1819, a treaty of cession was signed by the American secretary of state and the Spanish ambassador at Washington. This was subsequently ratified by Spain, October 24, 1820, and by the United States senate, February 22, 1821. By this treaty the United States were to pay five millions of dollars to their citizens, as an indemnity due from Spain for spoliations on American commerce. The western limit of Louisiana was also removed on the Gulf of Mexico, five hundred miles eastward, from the Rio Bravo del Norte to the Sabine, a territory now comprised within the state of Texas, and three times as extensive as Florida, relinquished without consideration.
On the 17th of June, 1821, General Jackson took formal possession of Florida, in the name of the United States, and entered upon his duties as military commandant and governor. His head-quarters were at Pensacola.
Florida remained a territory 24 years. On the 3d of March, 1845, Florida and Iowa were admitted into the Union in the same bill; and Texas in the course of the ensuing summer. “Strange that Texas, which was exchanged for Florida, in 1819, should enter the Union simultaneously with it in 1845, as an independent state.”
The Seminole Everglades
, a flat, marshy, lake-like district, in the central and southern part of Florida. As early as 1821, the national government were urged to remove the Creeks, who had fled into this territory and incorporated themselves with the Seminoles. Difficulties continuing with the Indians, a treaty was made in 1832, at Payne's Landing, in which a large number agreed to remove west of the Mississippi. A part of the Seminoles, considering the treaty as unfair, refused to remove. In. 1835, Gen. Thompson having a dispute with
Osceola
, a favorite chief of the Indians, caused him to be arrested and put in irons. The Indian chieftain, exasperated by this indignity put upon him, determined to have revenge.
* The Indians of Florida are said to be the remnants of, or runaways from, other tribes, principally Creeks, Red Sticks, and Micasukies. The word
“Seminole,” is said to signify a
“runaway,” or
“wanderer;” it is, therefore, a name indicating their origin.
On Dec. 28, 1835, Maj. Dade, with 117 men, fell into an ambuscade of the Indians, and were all killed but three men; one or two of them afterward died of their wounds. The same day Gen. Thompson, the government agent, who resided at Camp King, was seated, with a company at dinner, in a store house, when Osceola, at the head of his warriors, suddenly broke in upon them; and discharging a volley of nearly 100 guns, killed Gen. Thompson and four others.
After a variety of conflicts, Osceola, in Oct. 1837, with about 70 warriors, under the protection of a flag, came into the camp of Gen. Jessup, who caused him to be forcibly detained. He was taken to St. Augustine, thence to Fort Moultrie, at Charleston, where he died in Jan. 1838. This harassing warfare, at this period, was brought to a close by Col. Worth, in 1842, after millions had been expended, and hundreds of valuable lives had been sacrificed. In 1846, the greater part of the Seminoles were removed west of the Mississippi. Great numbers of the soldiers perished by disease, contracted by traversing through swamps, morasses, and stagnant lakes, in pursuing the Indians from place to place. A remnant of this tribe still remain in the interminable swamps and forests in Florida.
Florida is bounded N. by Georgia and Alabama, E. by the Atlantic Ocean; S. by the Gulf of Mexico; W. by the same, and by a small portion of Alabama. This state, which forms a peninsula, is situated between 25° and 31° N. Lat., and between 80° and 87° 44′ W. Long. It is about 385 miles long from north to south, and about 250 miles wide, including an area of about 59,268 square miles, or nearly 38,000,000 of acres, of which, in 1850, only some 350,000 were improved. St. John's is the principal river in this state. This beautiful stream rises in an immense marsh, slightly elevated above the ocean, and runs to the north, nearly parallel to the coast, until it turns to the east, and flows into the Atlantic. It passes through several lakes in its course, and afterward receives the Ocklawaha, a large tributary. Its entire length is about 250 miles, expanding, in many places, from three to five miles in width, though in other places it is not more than a quarter of a mile. Vessels drawing eight feet of water can enter Lake George 150 miles in the interior. The principal river in the western part of the state is the Appalachicola.
The surface of Florida is generally level, probably in no part elevated more than 250 or 300 feet above the sea. The southern part of the state is covered with a large sheet of water, called the
Everglades
, of an immense extent filled with islands. “The lands of Florida,” says De Bow, “are very curiously distributed, and may be designated as high hummock, low hummock, swamp, savanna, and the different qualities of pine land.
High Hummock
is usually timbered with live and other oaks, magnolia, laurel, etc., and is considered the best of land for general purposes.
Low hummock
, timbered with live and water oaks, is subject to overflow, but when drained, is preferredSavannas
, on the margin of streams, and in detached bodies, are usually rich alluvions, yielding largely in dry, but needing ditching and dyking in ordinary seasons.
Marsh
savannas, on the borders of streams, are very valuable when reclaimed for rice or sugar cane.” Much of the territory is covered with pine timber. The
“pine barrens,”
so called, appear to be scarcely worth cultivating. The open condition of the forests admits the luxuriant growth of innumerable varieties of herbage and flowers, many of which are, of the most beautiful description, flourishing all seasons of the year.
Population in 1830, was 34,730; in 1840, 54,477; and in 1850, 87,445, of whom 39,410 were slaves. Only about half of the inhabitants are natives of the state. Population, in 1860, 145,694; slaves, 63,809.
Eastern View of the Plaza, St. Augustine.
St. Augustine
is said to be, by forty years, the oldest town in the limits of the United States east of the Mississippi. It is situated 160 miles S. of Savannah, and 200 east of Tallahassee. Population, about 2,000. The city stands back two miles from the Atlantic, on a peninsula, and is shielded from the force of the main ocean by Anastatia Island, which lies before it, but is so low and narrow as not to intercept the sea-breezes. The site of St. Augustine is itself low, being not over twelve feet above the level of the ocean. The soil consists of shell and sand, with an intermixture of vegetable mold. The city is about a mile long and about half a mile in width, fronting east on Matanza Sound, which forms the harbor. Not more than one-half the city is compactly built, and much of this has an antiquated appearance.
The engraving annexed shows a view of the public square, as seen from the end of the long wharf, which extends into the harbor. The Catholic church, or cathedral, a large but plain and substantial building, having a small spire, is seen on the right. It is an interesting structure, from the fact of its being the place of worship for the oldest Christian congregationPlaza De La Constitution.
The United States court-house is seen in the distance, between the monument and the Catholic church, the lower part of which was formerly occupied as a postoffice. On the left appear the two market-houses and the spire of the Episcopal church. The square is open to the east, being bounded by a sea-wall formed of the native coquina rock, capped with granite stone. This is more than a mile in extent, in front of the town, and was erected by the United States, at a heavy expense. The United States custom-house is the small one story building seen on the right, in front of the Catholic church. The court-house was formerly the residence of H. White, who was of Irish birth, and one of the last Spanish governors of St. Augustine.
On the 8th of September, 1565, at noon-day, on the celebration of the festival in honor of the Virgin Mary, Pedro Melandez, a creature employed by the Spaniards to break up a Huguenot settlement near the mouth of St. John's River, entered the harbor of St. Augustine, landed and took possession of the country, proclaiming Philip II king of North America. He had the service of mass performed, and the foundations of a town immediately laid, which he named St. Augustine.
* Melandez, after having established the town, sailed northward to the mouth of the St. John's, where the Huguenots, or French protestante, under the patronage of Admiral Cologni, had, on the 30th of June, 1564, made a settlement and erected Fort Caroline. On the appearance of the Spanish fleet, the colonists sent a deputation to learn the name and objects of the Spanish commander, to which he answered, “I am Melandez, of Spain, sent with orders from my king to gibbet and behead all the protestants in this region. Frenchmen who are catholics I will spare—
every heretic shall die!” Some time afterward, Melandez, having collected a force at St. Augustine, marched through the wilderness and fell upon the French colonists by surprise; 86 persons were killed. Their bodies were hung on the limbs of the next tree, and Melanuez erected monument at this spot, on which he engraved, in extenuation of his crime,
“Not as Frenchmen, but as Hereties.” The Spaniards having formed a settlement on the spot from whence they had driven the Huguenots, were assailed by De Gourgas, a catholic and Frenchman. This distinguished person had retired from public life, but, hearing of the atrocities committed upon his countrymen by the Spaniards, he fitted out an expedition at his own risk. He sailed from France, fell upon the Spaniards at the mouth of St. John's. Hardly one escaped. Their bodies he also hung upon the trees. Underneath he put the inscription,
“Not as Spaniards but as murderers!”
In 1586, Admiral Drake, of the royal navy of England, under Queen Elizabeth, attacked the Spaniards at this place, who made but little opposition. The town was taken, plundered and burnt. Drake then sailed for England, where he arrived in July. About twenty-five years afterward St. Augustine was assaulted by a numerous band of the native Indians, and laid in ashes. In 1665, Davis, the bucannier, having discovered this Spanish retreat, with his armed band of freebooters invested, captured and plundered the town.
In 1702, Governor Moore, of South Carolina, with a large force, embarked on an expedition for the reduction of St. Augustine, which was considered
Southern View of Fort Marion, St. Augustine.
The above is a view of Fort Marion, as seen from the end of the wharf which extends into the harbor. This fortress was built by the Spaniards, from the neighboring coquina quarries, according to the most approved principles of military science. It walls are twenty-one feet high, terminating in four bastioned angles. Each of the several corners is surmounted by a tower, or look-out. A deep ditch surrounds the walls, over which is thrown a drawbridge, originally protected by a draw. This castle, which is situated within some twenty or thirty rods from the houses at the northern extremity of the town, commands the entrance of the harbor, and has now a water-battery, furnished with a complement of Paixhan guns, of a heavy caliber.
On approaching the main entrance, through the principal gateway, the first object of interest is a Spanish inscription, cut in stone overhead, surmounted by the arms of Spain. It is as follows, viz:
Reynando en Espana et son Don Fernando Sexto y Sierdo Governador y Capitan General di esta Plaza de San Augustine de Florida y su Provincia el Moriscal de campo Du. Alonzo Fernandez de Herida se condayo este Castello el ano de 1756 dirigendo las abras et Capitan ynginero Don Pedro de Brazas y Garay.
Don Ferdinand the Sixth, being King of Spain, and the Field Marshal, Don Alonzo Fernandos de Herida, being Governor and Captain General of the place, St. Augustine of Florida and its province, this fortress was finished in the year 1756. The works were directed by the Capt. Engineer, Don Pedro de Brazas y Garay.
Within the massive walls of this fortress are numerous dark, dungeon-like cells. Within the bastion of the north-east angle, far under ground, is a dark recess, the walls of which are constructed of solid masonry. After the fort came into the hands of the Americans this dungeon was opened, when a human skeleton, with the fragments of a pair of boots, and a mug for water were discovered.
On the eastern side of the fort, in one of the angles, a great number of
Before St. Augustine came into the possession of the United States it was a regular fortified town, in many respects similar to fortified places in Europe. The gateway, with a section of wall, represented in the engraving, is situated at the northern extremity of the town, the gate of which was closed at night-fall. The great road of the country, called the
“king's road,”
passed through this gate, which was guarded by sentinels. On the pillars inside this wall there is a recess in which a person can stand, and, through a small opening, observe whatever is approaching the town from the north. The Protestant cemetery is but a few rods from this point, a few palinp of the inclosure of which are seen on the right of the engraving. This interesting relic of antiquity owes its preservation to Thomas Douglas, Esq., who recently died at the house of his son-in-law, A. M. Reed, Esq., of Jacksonville. Soon after the place came into the possession of the Americans, this gateway being considered as an incumbrance, it was resolved to destroy it. and it was proceeded with so far as to take down one of the pillars. Judge Douglas, then United States attorney at St. Augustine, interfered on the ground of its being a part of the fortifications of St. Augustine, which were to be preserved. He compelled the authorities to put up the pillar as they had found it, and thus, by urging this point, this interesting relic of the past was preserved.
Northern View of the Ancient Gateway.
Previous to the great frost in February, 1835, St. Augustine contained within its bounds one immense orange orchard, and appeared, says an eyewitness, “like a rustic village, with its white houses peeping from among the clustered boughs and golden fruit of the favorite tree, beneath whose shade the invalid cooled his fevered limbs and imbibed health from the fragrant air.” The frost of 1835 cut down, in one night, this entire growth of
North View in Charlotte Street, St. Augustine.
The annexed is a view in Charlotte street, running south from the public square. The form of the buildings (mostly of stone), and particularly the narrowness of the street (five paces wide), show the antiquity of the place and the Spanish method of building their houses. On the left is a fig-tree, which produces fruit twice in a year, in August and in October.
The following is extracted from Wynne's Hist. North America, Yol. II. London, 1770:
We come now to the harbor of St. Augustine, which would be one of the best in America were it not for its bar, which will not admit vessels of great burden, as it has but eight feet of water. The bar is surrounded by breakers, that have a formidable appearance when you enter it, but is not so dangerous as it appears, on account of the bar being very short; since the government has appointed a good pilot no vessels have been lost upon it. There is a road on the north side of the bar, with good anchorage for such ships as draw too much water to go into the harbor.
A neck of main land runs to the north, and a point of Anastatia island to the south, from the entrance of the port. Opposite to the entrance lies Fort St. Mark, so called from the river it is situated upon. This fort is a regular quadrangle, with four bastions, a ditch fifty feet wide, with a covert-way, place of arms and a glacis; the entrance of the gate is defended by a raveline; it is case-mated all round, and bomb proof; the works are entirely of hewn stone, and being finished according to modern taste of military architecture, it makes a very handsome appearance, and may be justly deemed as pretty a fort as any in the king's dominions.
The town of St. Augustine is situated near the glacis of the fort, on the west side of the harbor; it is an oblong square; the streets are regularly laid out, and intersect each other at right angles; they are built narrow on purpose to afford shade. The town is above a half a mile in length, regularly fortified with bastions, and a ditch. Besides these works, it has another sort of fortification, very singular, but well adapted against the enemy the Spaniards have most to fear. It consists of several rows of palmetto trees, planted very close along the ditch, up to the parapet; their pointed leaves are so many
chevaux de frise
, that make it entirely impenetrable; the two southern bastions are built of stone. In the middle of the town is a spacious square called the Parade, open toward the harbor; at the bottom of this square is the governor's house, the apartments of which are spacious
The inhabitants, of all colors—whites, negroes, mulattoes, Indians, etc.,—at the evacuation of St. Augustine, amounted to five thousand seven hundred, the garrison included, which consisted of two thousand five hundred men. Half a mile from the town, to the west, is a line, with a broad ditch and bastions running from St. Sebastian's creek to St. Mark's River; a mile further is another fortified line, with some redoubts, forming a second communication between a stockade fort upon St. Sebastian's River, and Fort Moza, upon the river St. Mark's.
Within the first line, near the town, was a small settlement of Germans, who had a church of their own. Upon St. Mark's River, within the same line, was also an Indian town, with a church built of free-stone. The steeple is of good workmanship, though built by the Indians. The lands belonging to this township the governor has given as glebe-land to the parish church. The land about St. Augustine, in all appearance, is the worst in the province.
Opposite the town of St. Augustine lies the island of Anastatia. This island is about twenty-five miles in length, and divided from the main land by a narrow channel, called Matanza River, though in reality an arm of the sea. The soil here is but indifferent; at present it is used for pasturage, but having some creeks and swamps in several parts may in time be cultivated to advantage.
At the north end of this island is a watch-tower, or look-out, built of white stone, which serves also as a land-mark for vessels at sea. At the approach of any vessels, signals are made from this tower to the fort; a few soldiers do duty there on that account. A quarry of whitish stone is found opposite St. Augustine, of which the fort and houses are built. Stone quarries are very rare in the southern parts of America, which makes this of Anastatia the more valuable; the stone is manifestly a concretion of small shells, petrifed; it is soft under ground, but becomes very hard and durable by being exposed to the air.
Fogs and dark, gloomy weather are unknown in this country. At the equinoxes, especially the autumnal, the rains fall very heavy every day, betwixt eleven in the morning and four in the afternoon, for some weeks together. When a shower is over, the sky does not continue cloudy, but always clears up, and the sun appears again. The mildness of the seasons and the purity of the air are probably the cause of the healthiness of the country, which the inhabitants of the Spanish settlements considered, with respect to its healthiness, in the same light that we do the south of France, the Spaniards from the Havana, and elsewhere, frequently resorting thither for the benefit of their health; and since it came into the hands of Great Britain many gentlemen have experienced the happy effects of the climate.
The following cut shows the appearance of the principal monuments in the graveyard situated in the rear south of the garden attached to the U. S. Barracks, and, it is believed, occupies the site of the British barracks which formerly stood in this vicinity. This is an interesting spot, as in it repose the ashes of some representative of almost every state in the Union. All the remains of the officers and soldiers who have perished in the Indian wars in Florida, as far as they could be collected, have been brought here and buried. The pyramid monuments, on the left, contain the remains of one hundred men who, with Major Dade, fell a sacrifice to the terrible vengeance of Osceola and his warlike Seminoles. The large columnar monument on the right, over the remains of officers, has the following inscription:
Sacred to the memory of the officers and soldiers killed in battle and died on service during the Florida war. This conflict, in which so many gallant men perished in battle ann by disease, commenced 25th December, 1835, and terminated 14th August, 1842. A minute record
Cemetery near the U. S. Barracks, St. Augustine.
The smaller monument of the same form is that of Major Allen Lowd, 1st Reg. U. S. Artillery, and his wife. The small inclosure on the extreme right contains the monument of the wife of Lieutenant-Colonel Hardee. A row of orange trees is seen in the back-ground; beneath their shade are deposited the remains of many of the officers who perished in the Florida war, mostly young men in the prime of life.
Jacksonville
, the most flourishing and populous town in East Florida, is beautifully situated on the left or north bank of St. John's River, twenty-five miles from the ocean, forty north-west from St. Augustine, and about two hundred and fifty eastward of Tallahasse. Population about 3,000. It has a court-house, several churches, and an academy. The lumbering business is the principal occupation of the inhabitants, and several steam-mills are kept in operation. Jacksonville is situated at what was formerly called the
low crossings.
At this point the St. John's River is quite contracted, so that cattle can swim across the stream. Immediately south from the town the St. John's is expanded in some places to a width of several miles, having a lake-like appearance. Jacksonville is seen from a distance of twenty miles up the St. John's, and the scenery on each bank is in many places uncommonly beautiful.
Key West
, is on the N. W. end of Key West or Thompson's Island, in lat. 24° 20′ N; long. 82° 4′ W. The town was first settled in 1822, and is regularly laid out, containing a court-house, a marine hospital, several churches and schools, and about 3,000 inhabitants. The principal business of Key West is derived from salvages and other perquisites from wrecked vessels, there being usually from twenty-five to fifty vessels wrecked in this vicinity annually. The amount derived from this source by the
“wreckers
” has amounted in some years to $200,000. The harbor of this place is safe,
“The population of Key West is composed of Americans, English, Spanish and French, in varying proportions, with also a large infusion of black, brown and yellow ingredients. A peculiar race, not so well known to the world in general, is found here. A large portion of the people at Key West are vulgarly called
Conchs;
these are Bahamian emigrants, who have left the government of Great Britain for our own freer institutions, and wisely prefer Key West to the Bahama islands. They gained this peculiar name from the circumstance that, during an insurrection in the Bahamas, the insurgents placed the figure of a large conch-shell on the flag beneath which they fought—a very appropriate emblem, as most of them are fishermen.
“Key West is the nest from which issue swarms of wreckers, who lie in wait at every point, and as certain highly respectable birds are attracted by the most distant scent of blood, assemble with marvelous rapidity at the faintest report of a wreck. Indeed, the system of wrecking may be said to have built up Key West, and now materially helps to support it. Almost every prominent man on the island either is or has been connected with wrecking, and, though the profits are necessarily uncertain, yet, in many instances they are great.
“If beacons were erected on every shoal between Cape Florida and the Tortugas, and each dangerous passage accurately marked out, the wreckers would still have employment. The frequent calms, after violent winds that excite strong currents in the ocean, place ships completely at their mercy; and, sometimes a captain beholds his vessels drifting on a shoal without the power to do anything but foresee his fate. The water may be too deep to anchor, and with a current of two or three knots an hour, setting steadily toward the bank, all efforts to avert his fate would be utterly useless. He must make up his mind to view his ship lying helpless on the sand, with as much philosophy as he can muster, and wait for the coming of the wreckers, whose eagle eyes he may be sure will not long overlook him.”
Tallahassee
, the capital of Florida, is situated on ground somewhat elevated, about twenty-five miles from the Gulf of Mexico, one hundred and ninety-four miles E. from Mobile, one hundred and thirty from Pensacola, and two hundred and ten W. N. W. from St. Augustine. The adjacent country is rolling but not hilly, and the soil is good. The city is of recent origin, being incorporated in 1825. It is regularly laid out, containing a number of public squares, and has among its public buildings a state-house, court-house, an academy and several churches. Population about 2,000. There is a fine mill-stream on its eastern border, with a fall of fifteen or sixteen feet, after which it disappears in a cleft of the limestone strata. It is connected by a railroad with Port Leon, twenty-six miles distant, on the Appalachee Bay, which may be regarded as the port of Tallahassee.
Tallahassee was founded in 1824, as the seat of government of the territory of Florida. The first legislature of the state met here June 23, 1845, and two days after the first executive, Governor Mosely, was installed into office. The officers of the legislature were James A. Berthelet, president of the senate; Thomas F. King, clerk: Hugh Archer, speaker of the house; M. D. Papy, chief clerk.
Appalachicola
is one hundred and thirty-five miles S. W. of Tallahassee, at the mouth of the river of the same name, and is a point of large cotton shipments.
Pensacola
is upon the Pensacola Bay, in the extreme south-west corner of
Pensacola is the oldest town on the Gulf of Mexico in the United States. In 1696 the Spanish government sent a colony of three hundred emigrants from Mexico to occupy this point. In 1699 the colony was reinforced and placed in command of Don Andre de Riola, who fortified the harbor. In 1719, when war raged between France and Spain, Pensacola was taken by Bienville, after a brave resistance. He had under him a party of French Canadians, about four hundred Indians, and a few armed vessels. He soon after was compelled to abandon the place on the approach of a powerful French armament.
In 1764 when Florida for a time came under the English dominion, extending from the Atlantic to the Mississippi, Pensacola was made the capital of West Florida, and St. Augustine of East Florida.
In the spring of 1781, General Galvez, with a powerful Spanish fleet and land forces, invested the British fortress of Pensacola, both by land and sea. The garrison, Colonel Campbell, having made a gallant but ineffectual resistance, surrendered the fort and port on the 8th of May, together with the whole province of West Florida, East Florida subsequently yielded to the victorious Spaniards, and the treaty of 1783 confirmed all of Florida to Spain. In May of 1818, Pensacola was taken from the Spaniards by General Jackson, in the Seminole war of that period, aid and comfort having been extended to the savages by the Spanish authorities. All of West Florida now became virtually occupied by the American troops, and soon after the purchase of the whole country was effected with Spain. When General Jackson took formal possession of Florida, in 1821, as governor, Pensacola, was his headquarters.
Bartram, the botanist, visited Pensacola in 1777. He describes the town as containing several hundred habitations. The governor's palace was a stone building, erected by the Spaniards, and ornamented with a tower, defended by a large stockade fortress of wood, on the plan of a tetragon, with a salient angle at each corner, where stood block-houses, mounted with light artillery. The fort contained officers' houses, barracks for the troops, arsenals and magazines. The secretary resided in a spacious house, as did some eminent merchants and professional gentlemen.
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, MISCELLANIES, ETC.
Osceola
, the celebrated Seminole chieftain, was not a chief by birth, but raised himself, by his courage and superior abilities, to that station. His father is said to have been an Englishman and his mother a Creek woman. In person he was rather slender, but well formed, muscular, and capable of enduring great fatigue. He was an excellent tactician, and an admirer of order and discipline. His complexion was rather light, and, at the time of the Florida war, he was between thirty and forty years of age. He is said to have conducted, in person, every important action from the commencement to the battle of Withlecoochee. He died at Sullivan's Island, S. C., in 1838.
Bow-legs
, who of late years has attained considerable notoriety, appears to have commenced his career as a lieutenant under
King-Paine
, as early as 1812. Early in this year, at the head of certain Seminoles and slaves who had run away from their American masters, these two chieftains issued forth in quest of blood and plunder. General Newman, with a party of one hundred and seventeen Georgia volunteers, marching out to destroy some Indian villages, were met by a band of one hundred and fifty Indians under King-Paine and Bow- legs. A desperate conflict.Billy Bow-legs
(as he is now called) appears to have been Boleck, which has been corrupted into Bow-legs.
Neamathla
, a Seminole, was a chief of note before the last war with Great Britain. After the Seminole war, he lived upon a good estate at Tallahassee, of which a mile square was under improvement. This, in 1823, at the head of the chiefs of his nation, he gave up, with other lands, for the benefit of the United States, by a treaty made at Moultrie Creek.
Micanopy
, the king of the nation, the grandson of King-Paine, was at first opposed to the removal of his people west of the Mississippi. He afterward, in 1832, signed a conditional treaty to remove. He is described as a short, thick-set, ugly looking Indian, and given to intoxication.
Jumper
, an Indian of some note, was Micanopy's chief counselor.
ENSLAVEMENT OF MEDITERRANEAN COLONISTS IN FLORIDA.
After the year 1763, when Florida fell into the possession of the English, emigrants from England began to arrive in the country. Several of the English nobility settled plantations on Hillsboro' River, on St. John's River, and on Amelia Island, in the peninsula of East Florida. Settlements, also, were made at Pensacola. Lord Rollo, beside, obtained a grant of land on St. John's River, where he formed a colony called
Charlotia
, to which he transported nearly three hundred prostitutes from London, with the hope of making of them good members of society; but death, in a few years, removed them from his charge. Another colony was formed of Greeks, Corsicans and Minorcans, the sad history of which we annex from Monette's History of the Mississippi Valley:
Dr. Turnbull, of notorious memory, and Sir William Duncan, tried a different experiment for peopling Florida. The former sailed for the Peloponnesus, and for the sum of four hundred pounds sterling, obtained permission of the governor of Modon to convey to Florida a large number of Greek families. In 1767 he arrived with one small vessel, and took as many Greeks as he could obtain. On his way from Modon, he put in at the islands of Corsica and Minorca, and there procured several vessels, and augmented the number of his settlers to fifteen hundred. He a agreed to carry them free of expense, to furnish them with good provisions and clothing, and, at the end of three years, to give to each head of a family fifty acres, and to each child twenty-five acres of land. If they should be dissatisfied at the end of six months he agreed to send them back to their native country. These were the terms promised, but never complied with.
They had a long and tedious voyage of four months, and many of the old people died on the voyage. They arrived in Florida in the fall season, and a grant of six thousand acres of land for the settlement was made by the governor of Florida. To shelter them through the winter they built huts of palmetto, and proceeded to prepare the fields for the opening spring. The settlement was designated "New Smyrna," and its location was about four miles west of Musqueto Inlet, and seventy-four south of St. Augustine.
After a sufficient quantity of provisions had been raised, Turnbull directed his attention to the cultivation and manufacture of indigo, and reduced his ignorant and helpless foreigners to the most abject and disgraceful slavery. In five years they had nearly three thousand acres of good land in a fine state of cultivation; and the nett value of the indigo crop, for one year, amounted to three thousand one hundred and seventy-four dollars.
Turnbull's avarice seemed to increase with his prosperity; but he failed to comply with his agreements, or to fulfill his contracts. From the colonists he selected a few Italians, whom he made overseers and drivers, and they exercised over the remainder such cruelty and oppression as is known only under English masters.
Historical.
The vast region north of lat. 36° 30 and between the valley of the Mississippi and the Pacific coast was the date of this map (1803) unknown and unexplored by civilized man.
Descriptive.
In general terms of the United States west of the 98°
THE UNITED STATES IN 1803.
THE UNITED STATES IN 1861.
Tasks were assigned them for the week as large as they could possibly perform. The food allowed the laborers was seven quarts of shelled corn per week for the whites; to the negroes on the plantations ten quarts per week were allowed. Saturday and Sunday were allowed to supply themselves with meat by fishing and hunting. The sick and invalids were allowed only three and a half quarts of corn per week.
Most of the Minorcans and Corsicans had brought a good supply of clothing with them; when these were worn out, they were furnished with one suit of Osnaburgs each year. One blanket and one pair of shoes, for the whole term, were given to the men; but none were allowed to the women, although many of them had been accustomed to live in comparatively easy circumstances in their own country.
For nine years were this people kept in ignominious bondage, ground down by a tyranny unequaled by the relentless Spaniards of St. Domingo. During the last three years they were supplied with no clothing at all, but were permitted to buy on credit at a public store belonging to the company, thus creating a debt which served as a pretext for their detention. On the most trifling occasions they were beaten without mercy, and negroes were usually chosen as the instruments of diabolical cruelty, they being often compelled to beat and lacerate those who failed to perform their tasks, until many of them died. Sometimes, after having the skin scourged from their backs, they were left tied to trees all night, naked and exposed, for swarms of musquetoes to fatten on their blood and to aggravate their tortures. If induced by despair to run away, they were captured by the negroes of the neighboring plantations, who received a bounty for their apprehension and delivery. Some wandered off and sought an asylum in the woods, where they died of hunger and disease, or sought the protection of the Indians.
At the end of nine years their number, including the natural increase, was reduced to six hundred. These people, living under the protection of a nation which boasts its freedom, and that its very soil strips the shackles from the slave, were, a mere accident, released from their cruel tyrant. Secluded, overtasked and isolated, they knew not their rights, nor the mean of obtaining them. In the summer of 1776, some English gentlemen from St. Augustine. making an excursion down the coast, called at “New Smyrna” to see the improvements, especially a spacious stone mansion-house, which had been commenced for the proprietor. Seeing the wretched and degraded condition of the people, one of the gentlemen observed, In the hearing of an intelligent boy, “that if these knew their rights,” they would not submit to such slavery. The boy repeated the remark to his mother, and she took counsel with her friends at night, to gain more intelligence on the subject.
A plan was devised to send three individuals ostensibly to the coast to obtain a supply of turtle, but, in fact, to St. Augustine. They arrived in safety, and soon had an interview with Mr.Younge, the attorney-general of the of the province. They made known their business, and he promised them the protection guarantied to them by the laws. Governor Grant, who is supposed to have been personally connectted Turnbull in the slavery of these Greeks and Minorcans, had been superseded by Governor Tonyn, who sought to render himself popular by causing justice to be done to these long-injured people.
The messengers returned, after a few days, with the joyful intelligence that justice was in prospect; but the mission must be concealed, as well as the intelligence received. Although Turnbull was absent, they feared the overseers, and dreaded their cruelty. They met in secret and chose M. Pallacier for their leader, and secretly arranged the plan of their departure. Upon a given day, formed into a phalanx, the armed and strong men guarding the women and children, they marched in a body toward St. Augustine. So secretly had the whole plan been concerted, that they were some miles on their way before the overseers discovered that the settlement was deserted.
Turnbull, their tyrannical master, having been informed of their departure, rode many miles after them, and overtook them before they reached St. Augustine; but
50
To supply them with homes, they were offered lands for settlement near New Smyrna; but, fearing some treachery in Turnbull, they refused to return to that place. Grounds were, therefore, assigned them in the northern suburbs of St. Augustine, where they erected their houses, and cultivated gardens for the town supplies. The same grounds to this day are occupied by many of their descendants, who now constitute a respectable, and in some instances a wealthy and intelligent portion of the population of that city.
FLORIDA WAR.
As early as 1821 Gen. Jackson, at that time governor of Florida, strongly urged government to take measures to send back all the Creek Indians who had in 1814 and 1818 fled to Florida, as he apprehended that an increase of the Indian population in that country would sooner or later produce bad consequences. In 1822 Col. J. M. White, the representative of that territory, urged upon the secretary of war the necessity of adopting those measures proposed by Gen. Jackson as the only efficient mode to give peace and quiet to the country.
These recommendations were so far disregarded that a treaty was held with these Indians, and others, on the peninsula of Florida, on the 18th of September, 1823, at Camp Moultrie, which stipulated for their continuance in the territory during twenty years. By this treaty the Seminoles relinquished all their claim to lands in Florida, with the exception of a tract, estimated to contain about five millions of acres, within the limits of which they bound themselves to continue. The United States were to pay the Indians $2,000 to aid them in removing to the reservation; to furnish them with articles of husbandry, stock, etc., to the amount of $6,000; to furnish them with provisions for one year; to pay them $4,500 for the improvements which they had surrendered with their lands; to allow them $1,000 per annum for a blacksmith, and $1,000 per annum for a schoolmaster, these two last allowances to continue for twenty years.
In less than a year from the treaty complaints were made to the authorities of depredations on the property of the whites, their fields having been plundered and their cattle driven off and killed; these outrages were laid to the Indians. There is, however, strong evidence that the whites
first
committed depredations of this kind upon the property of the Indians.
* The Indians in numerous instances acted in a mild and forbearing manner under the most trying circumstances. When their property was taken from them they made no resistance; their hands were bound, as the severest punishment awaited any attack
they might make against intruders, although justified by circumstances. The testimony of an Indian could not be received in a court of justice—the white man's oath would condemn him to severe punishment. Two men from Georgia, by the names of Robinson and Wilburn, taking advantage of the excitement against the Indians, circulated unfavorable reports against
Econchatta Mico, a high-minded and honorable chief, stating that he was about to join the hostile Indians; by this means they succeeded in dispossessing the chief and his people of their fire-arms, and other moans of defense, when these villains took forcible possession of twenty of his slaves, valued at about $15,000, and carried them off to New Orleans. Col. John Blount, another estimable chief, was inhumanly beaten by a party of white men, who robbed him of several hundred dollars; he made application to the authorities, but the whites were allowed to escape. A man by the name of Floyd was employed by an Indian woman to recover some negroes for her, and instead of presenting a mere power of attorney for her signature she found, alas I it was a bill of sale for all her negroes! Another individual was requested by Micanopy, governor of the Seminoles, to draw a piece of writing for him, to which, without suspicion of its character, he attached his name; it was soon after discovered to be a conveyance of a large tract of land!
Another source of great irritation to the Indians was the vile impositions of a
The annoyance to the whites arising from the Indians being so near them resulted in numerous petitions being sent to the president praying for their removal sooner than the time fixed on by the treaty at Camp Moultrie. These memorials were so far regarded by the president that a new treaty was immediately decided upon. Col. Gadsden, a citizen of Florida, was appointed a commissioner to make known to the Indians the views of the government, and, if possible, to secure a new arrangement. He accordingly went into the nation, and on the 8th of April, 1832, had an interview with Micanopy and a few other chiefs on the subject of a removal of their tribe west of the Mississippi. At this time he found but little objection to the proposal, on account of the almost starved condition of the Indians from the failure of their crops the preceding year. Micanopy said he wished all his people to hear what their father in Washington had to say, and as many of their warriors were out upon their annual hunt from one to two hundred miles down the peninsula, he wished Col. Gadsden to defer his communication for thirty days. Accordingly the 8th of May following was fixed upon as the day for the council, and Payne's Landing as the place of meeting. According to arrangement, the parties met, and on the 8th of May and the day following a treaty was signed by such chiefs and head men who had assembled, to the number of fifteen, It is said that this treaty was signed only on the condition that the chiefs whom they should send to see the country should bring back a favorable report.
The importance of an early ratification of this treaty was earnestly pressed upon the attention of government. Two years, however, were suffered to elapse before its validity was acknowledged, and some time after that before the appropriations were made. In the mean time the Indians became dissatisfied with it, and it was openly denounced as a “white man's treaty.” One of the principal causes of hostility to emigration was the fact of their holding a large number of negro slaves. Many of these negroes were claimed by the Creek Indians, under the treaty made in 1821, by which the United States agreed ageed to pay to the citizens of Georgia for the slaves detained among the Creeks; these slaves, it was alleged by the Creeks, were in possession of Seminoles, and were unjustly detained from them. This was, however, denied by the latter.
The representations of the numerous whisky dealers who had located themselves on the Indian borders had probably considerable influence with the Indians against emigrating. These pests to the Indians made a profitable business in selling them strong drink, and of course did not like to lose their customers.
The ratification of the treaty on the part of the United States having taken place, the agent was. instructed to convene a general council of the Seminole chiefs, in order that they might prepare themselves for emigration. This council met at Fort King Oct. 23, 1834. The chiefs on this occasion made many complaints against the whites, who they said had
forced
them into the treaty, and that their people were unwilling to remove. In 1835 another effort was made to obtain the consent of the Indians for a removal. Several hundred chiefs and warriors were assembled. A "“talk”' from President Jackson was delivered to them, enforced and illustrated by the agent and Gen. Clinch, the purport of which was that they must remove, or they would be compelled to do so without delay. Some of the chiefs were in favor of this, but the principal ones were firm in their opposition, and expressed themselves accordingly.
The firmest friend to emigration was Fucta Lusta Hajo (Black-dirt) By his influence eight of the principal chiefs of the and eight sub-chiefs sigr@ed treaty sanctioning their removal. Five of the principal chief remained opposed, viz: Micanopy, Jumper, Holato Mice, Coa Hajo and Arpiucki. Gen. Thompson,
The Indians discovering the hopelessness of their situation determined to oppose the efforts of the government, and at a great meeting of the nation at Big Swamp resolved on retaining possession of their country, and condemned all who should oppose their views to instant death. Immediately upon this, five of the principal chiefs, with about four hundred and fifty of their people who were friendly to a removal, fled to Fort Brook on the 9th of November, and encamped on the opposite side of the Hillsboro River. Marauding parties of Indians now commenced operations by pillaging and destroying everything of value. Conflagration succeeded conflagration, until the whole country from Fort Brooke to Fort King was laid waste, while those who lived in the interior, abandoning their houses, stock, etc., sought protection within the forts or picketed towns.
On the 26th of November a party of about four hundred warriors, headed by Osceola, and others, proceeded to the residence of Charley Amathla, and demanded a pledge from him that he would oppose the removal of his people. This chief nobly replied that as he had given his promise that he would remove, rather than break it he would suffer death. He was allowed two hours to deliberate whether he would join them or suffer death. He remained firm in his determination to abide by his word, and was accordingly shot by Osceola. At this period the whole military force stationed in Florida amounted to 489 men, which were distributed as follows: at St. Augustine, 53; at Fort Brooke, on Hillsboro' Bay, 133; and at Fort King, six companies, consisting in the whole of 303 men. The force of the hostile Indians at this time has been estimated at about two thousand warriors.
When the news of the death of Charley Amathla reached Fort King, Gen. Clinch immediately decided upon attacking a body of Indians who had assembled in the vicinity of the forks of the Withlacoochee River, and should he succeed in routing, them he hoped it would effectually put down all opposition. For this purpose he gave orders to the com0manding officer at Fort Brooke to place two companies in motion on the 16th of Dec., in order to form a junction with the troops from Fort King, at or near the forks of the Withlacoochee. This order was, however, susspended by Major Belton, in consequence of his small force (120 men) to protect the garrison; and from information which he had received of the strong position which the Indians occupied on the river. This plan was therefore deferred until the arrival of other forces. On the 18th of December, Col. Warren, of the militia, who had been ordered out for the defense of the frontier, put his command in motion to scour a large hammock near Wacahonta, where he supposed the Indians were embodied. Not wishing to be incumbered with baggage, he directed Dr. M'Lemore, with an escort of thirty men, to proceed direct with the train to Witumkey, whither he would march on his return. When the train had reached Payne's prairie, fifty or sixty Indians arose from ambush and opened a spirited fire on the guard, killing eight and wounding six; the others retired to Micanopy. The Indians also killed five of the horses, and wounded six more; they then took possession of the baggage, ammunition, etc., and set the wagon on fire.
At this time Gen. Clinch was stationed at Ft. Crane, in the interior of Florida, to be in imminent danger from the Indians, and also in great want of supplies, Major Dado was dispatched, at the head of Tampa Bay, with eight officers and one hundred and two and, to his assistance. On the 28th of December, 1835, having proceeded about half way, and reached an open pine country about six miles north-east of the Withlacoochee River, he fell into an Indian ambuscade.
“Suddenly, about mid-day, they were attacked on all sides with a continuous volley of small arms, accompanied by horrid yells, from an unseen enemy in the high grass; and so terrible was the first discharge that Major Dude Dade was killed, and nearly half his detachment disabled. The remainder, under Lieut. Bassinger, sheltered themselves behind trees, while five or six discharges of canister from the six pounder caused the Indians to Aisperse and retire. On their retreat, Captain Gardiner immediately commenced the erection of a triangular breast-work, by cutting
At length the last man fell, when the savages rushed into the inclosure. Here, supposing all were dead, a large Indian made a speech to the warriors, who immediately proceeded to strip the arms and accouterments from the soldiers, without any indignity to their bodies and then retired. Thus in two hours this fine detachment of brave men had been annihilated.
Soon afterward fifty negroes on horseback rode up to the breastwork, tied their horses, and began the horrid butchery. Did any man on the ground show signs of life) it was only to receive the negro's tomahawk into his brains, or to be stabbed to death with their knives, or otherwise to be cut and mutilated by the thick-lipped savages, amid demoniac yells and horrid blasphemies. Lieutenant Bassinger, still alive, sprung to his knees and begged his life of the negro savages, but they mocked his prayers and mangled his body with their hatchets until death relieved him from their tortures.
After stripping the dead, the negroes dragged the field-piece to a neighboring pond, in which they concealed it, after which they shot the oxen and burned the wagon and gun-carriage.
Two men, Clarke and Decouy, lay concealed among the dead bodies until night, when they crawled out and made their way toward Tampa Bay. Next day Decouy was discovered and shot by an Indian; Clarke concealed himself in the bushes, and proceeded to Tampa next day, where he speedily recovered of his wounds. Another soldier, named Thomas, after lying half suffocated under the dead bodies all night, recovered, and finally succeeded in reaching the fort at Tampa Bay in safety.
Thus terminated this disastrous battle, in which only two men survived to tell the melancholy story of this detachment of as brave men as ever suffered under savage cruelty.
A free negro, named Lewis, formerly the property of General Clinch, had been the guide of Major Dade, and it was through his treachery that this fatal ambuscade succeeded. He fled to the Indians upon the first attack. The number of Indians engaged in this tragedy is unknown; but probably there were not less than three hundred, beside fifty negroes. They were commanded by Jumper and Micanopy. The officers slain in this massacre were Major Dade, Captain Frazier, Captain Gardiner, Lieutenant Bassinger, Lieutenant Mudge, Lieutenant Keys, Lieutenant Henderson, and Doctor Catlin.
On the same day that Major Dade was cut off, the Seminole chief, Powell, with twenty men, advanced to Fort King, and, within two hundred and fifty yards of the pickets, killed the suttler to the fort, Erastus Rodgers, and a party of friends, while at dinner. Among those slain with Rodgers were Suggs, Hitzler, General Wiley Thompson, the Indian agent, and Lieutenant Constantine Smith. Four others escaped. The body of Gen. Thompson was pierced by fifteen balls, and that of Rodgers by sixteen, and their bodies were horribly mangled and mutilated afterward.
* The spot where these brave men fell was passed by the army under General Gaines, on their route from Fort Brooke to the north, on the 20th of February, 1836. The following account is given by an officer of the army: “Resuming their march at daybreak on the 20th, they pursued the even tenor of their way until about nine o'clock, when the appearance of large vultures but too plainly foretold the approach of the army to the sad spot of slaughter. The advanced guard having passed the battle-ground without halting, the general and his staff came upon one of the most appalling and affecting scenes that the human eye ever beheld. A short distance in the rear of the little field-work lay a few broken cartridge-boxes, fragments of clothing, here and there a shoe, or an old straw hat, which perhaps had been exchanged for a military cap; then a cart partly burnt, with the oxen still yoked lying dead near it; a horse had fallen a little to the right; and here, also, a few bones of the hapless beings lay bleaching in the sun; while the scene within and beyond the triangular inclosure baffles all description. One would involuntarily turn aside from the horrible picture to shed a tear of sorrow, and 'wish that
he had nothing known or nothing seen.' From the positions in which the bodies of this devoted little baud were found, it was evident that they had been shot down in the faithful discharge of their duty; their bodies were stretched with striking regularity, nearly parallel with each other; and it is very doubtful whether the Indians touched them after the battle, except to take some few scalps, and to divest the officers of their coats. A short distance further, in the middle of the road, was the advance guard, about twenty-eight in number; and immediately in the rear lay the remains of poor Dade, while a few feet to the right, in the rear, were those of the estimable Captain Frazier. To guard against surprise, our troops had been immediately formed into a quadrangular line, and soon after a detail of the regulars commenced the pleasing though mournful task of consigning the remains of their mutilated brethren-in-arms to whence they came. Within the inclosure two large graves were dug, into which the bodies of ninety-eight non-commissioned officers and privates were placed; and outside of the north-east angle of the work another grave received the bodies of eight officers, at the head of which the field-piece, which had been spiked and concealed by the enemy, but recovered, was planted vertically. The regular troops, formed into two columns and led by the immediate friends of the deceased officers, then moved, with reversed arms, in an opposite direction, three times around the breast-work, while the bands played the
Dead March.”
At the very time of the attack on Dade's party, Osceola, with a band of warriors, was prowling in the vicinity of Fort King, about sixty-five miles south-west from St. Augustine. While Gen. Thompson, with several friends, was dining at store-house only 250 yards from the fort, they were surprised by a sudden discharge of musketry, and five out of nine persons were killed. The body of Gen. Thompson was found pierced with fifteen bullets. Osceola and his party rushed in, scalped the dead and retreated before they could be fired upon by the garrison.
The next important event which occurred after these tragedies was the battle of
Withlecooche.
Gen. Clinch, previous to this action, was lying in garrison at Fort Drane, a stockade about thirty miles from Fort King. Gen. Call having arrived at this place at the head of nearly five hundred volunteers from the adjoining counties, formed a junction with the United States troops, amounting to about two hundred men. An expedition was now immediately set on foot for the head-quarters of the Indians, and Gen. Clinch issued orders for the troops to move at sunrise on the 29th of December. On the 30th they arrived within half a mile of the Withlereecho, and encamped for the night. The next morning at daybreak the column resumed its march toward the river, and when it arrived at the crossing-place the general found that his guides bad deceived him, and that the river was not fordable but deep and the current rapid. No Indians having been seen along the banks, one of the men swam over and obtained a small canoe from the opposite side, in which the regulars began to cross, seven at a time. Gen. Clinch and Colonels Parkhill and Read having passed to the other side of the river, they, in conjunction with Gen. Call on this side, began to construct a raft of logs for facilitating the passage of the troops, their baggage, etc.
The regulars having all crossed by twelve o'clock, Maj. Fanning led them into an open field, surrounded on all sides by a thick swamp and hammock, and formed them into line, waiting for the crossing of the volunteers. When about fifty of the latter had reached the opposite shore, and while the officers were engaged in the construction of the raft, they were suddenly surprised with the cry of
“the Indians are coming!
” Every man flew to his post, and the moment Gen. Call drew up his men in line the Indians opened a fire upon them from the opposite side, but the volunteers poured a heavy volley into the hammock, which silenced the enemy, who now, finding that some of our troops had crossed, made a desperate attack upon the regulars. As the Indians had the advantage of the ground, Gen. Clinch ordered a “charge,” which was most gallantly executed by Major Fanning, but the Indians still maintained their ground. After two other charges into the swamp and scrub, the regulars succeeded in driving the enemy some distance off. The chiefs called to their warriors to rally once more, and not to run from the “pale-faces.” But all their efforts were in vain; after the third charge the regulars, although one-third of their number had been cut down, succeeded in defeating the enemy, and in giving entire protection to the position selected for crossing the river.
The action lasted nearly an hour, and four men were killed and fifty-two wounded, some of whom afterward died of their wounds. The Indian loss is supposed toOsceola
was observed foremost of all his men in this battle, and nearly fulfilled his threat, which was to kill General Clinch. He took his stand behind a tree, from whence he would boldly step, level his rifle, and bring down a man at every fire; nor was he dislodged until several volleys from whole platoons had been fired upon him. In this battle the Indians are supposed to have been nearly three times more numerous than the force under General Clinch.
Previous to, and immediately succeeding, the battle of Withlacoochee, the Indians spread themselves in small parties, for the purpose of devastating the country. They simultaneously appeared in the south part of the peninsula, and as far north as Picolata, and from the extreme east, below St. Augustine, to the west. On the 5th of January, at New River, on the south-east side of the peninsula, they murdered the wife and children of Mr. Cooper, in whose house they knew that a quantity of goods were stored. They carried off twelve barrels of provisions, thirty hogs, three horses, one keg of powder, two hundred pounds of lead, seven hundred dollars worth of dry goods, four hundred and eighty dollars in silver, and two negroes. All the settlements in that neighborhood (two hundred and fifty miles south of St Augustine) were immediately abandoned. The scene of destruction on the eastern side of the peninsula, and along St. John's River, is described as heart-rending. The extensive plantations of Colonel Rees and Mr. Forrester, on the St. John's, were laid waste, and, it is supposed, about three hundred negroes from the neighborhood were carried away. The establishments of Mr. Solano, General Hernandez, Bulow, Dummet, Mrs. Anderson, and others below St. Augustine, were laid waste, and property to the value of two millions destroyed.
Intelligence of these events having reached the adjoining states, nearly two thousand volunteers from Georgia, Alabama and South Carolina put themselves in readiness to embark for the theater of war at a moment's warning. General Gaines, who was on a tour of inspection in the western department, first heard of the disturbances in Florida about the 15th of January. Being at New Orleans, he called on the governor of Louisiana for aid, and set out himself for the scene of hostilities. At Pensacola he found some vessels of war, under Commodores Dallas and Bolton, who had already commenced operations in the neighborhood of Tampa Bay, and other adjacent inlets. General Gaines arrived with his forces, in three steamboats, at Tampa, on the 9th of February, and on the 13th began to proceed into the Indian country. On the 20th the army passed the fatal battlefield of Major Dade, and on the 22d arrived at Fort King. General Gaines now concluded to move down the Withlacoochee, over General Clinch's battle-ground, on to Tampa, hoping that this route would bring him into contact with the main body of the Indians.
On the 27th the army arrived at Gen. Clinch's crossing-place. Here, while examining and surveying the river, the Indians fired upon them, but their numbers were not sufficient to make any material impression, although they continued the fight for about half an hour. The whites lost one killed and eight wounded. On the 28th the army resumed its march, and was again attacked about two miles from its former position, and a fire was kept up about half a day. Major J. F. Izard, of the United States dragoons, who had volunteered his services on this expedition, fell mortally wounded at the commencement of the action. The next day the Indians appeared in greater force, and continued the contest for two hours, killing one man and wounding thirty-three others, among whom was General Gaines himself, a rifle-ball having passed through his under-lip, knocked out one tooth and damaged two others. A breast-work was thrown up near the river, and the fortification was named
Camp Izard
, and at this place the army was closely invested by the Indians. Their provisions now began to fail them, and they were obliged to subsist on horse-flesh. On the 28th of February, General Clinch, with about five hundred men and a supply of provisions, reached the camp, and a scene ensued which beggars description. The nearly starved Louisianians could scarcely wait for the soldiers to get off their haversacks and canteens.
General Gaines, having transferred his command to General Clinch, left for Newcenter, the right
, and the
left wings
—the center wing, consisting of one thousand two hundred and fifty men, under Colonel Lindsay, was to move from Fort Brooke; the right wing, upward of two thousand strong, under General Clinch, were to move from Fort Drane; the left wing, about one thousand four hundred strong, under General Eustis, were to move from Volusia, All these forces were directed to advance to. ward the forks of the Withlacoochee, and thus inclose the enemy on every side. This plan, however well devised, was, by unforseen circumstances, rendered but of little avail. But few Indians could be found, and the troops were worn down by fatiguing marches through hammocks and swamps. By the 17th of April, 1836, the weather became oppressive. Out of more than seven hundred Louisianians, who had volunteered in January, but one hundred and thirty were left who were able to endure the fatigue of another march.
After General Scott left Florida, Major General Jesup was appointed to the command. Having a large force under his orders, he was quite confident that he would he able to put an end to the war in a short time. His efforts, however, were as equally unsuccessful as those before him. About the 1st of February, 1837, General Jesup made a movement with the main body of the army to attack the Indians and negroes, who were said to be in force about the head-waters of the Ocklawaha, near Apopka Lake. After driving them from one swamp to another, without any decisive action, the chiefs Jumper, Alligator, Abraham, and some others, came into camp and agreed to a cessation of hostilities. A treaty was signed afterward, by which they agreed to bring their families to Tampa, in order to emigrate to the west by the 10th of April. A considerable body of Indians assembled, apparently with the design of emigrating. After a protracted negotiation with the government agents, a party of hostile Indians surrounded the camp of Micanopy, Jumper and Cloud, and forced them away, and the Indians all left the camp and fled into the woods. The treaty for removal seems to have been an artifice to gain time for recruiting their strength at the expense of the government. Being paid for the cattle they brought in, they were able to purchase supplies, ammunition, etc.
On the 3d of December, 1837, Micanopy, Little Cloud, Sam. Jones' nephew, and about twenty other principal warriors, came into Fort Mellon, on Lake Munroe, the headquarters of the army. It appears that they were induced to come in under a flag of truce, by the influence of the Cherokee delegation, who were employed to act as mediators between the Florida Indians and the United States. Notwithstanding the circumstances under which these chiefs entered the fort, General Jesup sent them to St. Augustine, and there secured them as
prisoners of war.
The celebrated Osceola, it appears, was captured while seeking an interview with Gen. Jesup. He was taken to St. Augustine, and from thence sent into confinement at Fort Moultrie, on Sullivan's Island, in the harbor of Charleston, S. C., where he died January 30, 1838, of the throat distemper.
On the 1st of December, 1837, the army stationed at the different posts in Florida was estimated to number nearly nine thousand men, yet, against this force, the Indians still held out, with hopes of effectual resistance. On the 25th of the month, Colonel Taylor (afterward president of the United States), at the head of about six hundred men, encountered the Indians on the north side of Lake
Okeechobee
, or
Big Water
, in the southern part of Florida. “After passing several cypress swamps and dense hammocks, Colonel Taylor reached the vicinity of the Indians' encampment, on the 25th. Here they found one of the strongest places, as well as one of the most difficult of access, of any known before in Florida. The main body of the Indians were posted in a hammock, from whence they poured such a destructive fire upon the volunteers that they were obliged to fall back. They formed in the rear of the infantry, who now coming into action pressed forward and gained the hammock. The struggle continued for more than an hour, which was sustained with difficulty on the part of the whites, the Indians at one time nearly breaking their line. They were, however, finally routed and driven at every point, leaving ten their
During the years 1837 and 1838 numerous encounters were had with the Indians, although but little appeared to be accomplished toward bringing the conflict to a close. In 1839, General Macomb, who had received the chief command of the army in Florida, induced a number of chiefs in the southern part to sign a treaty of peace. By the influence of Colonel Harney an amicable arrangement was made, whereby they were to remain in the country for the present, or until they could be assured of the prosperous condition of their friends who had emigrated. But the many murders which took place after the treaty destroyed all confidence in its utility. The people of Florida now declared they would take into their own hands the management of the war, and early in June the government of the territory offered a reward of two hundred dollars for every Indian killed or taken.
During the year 1840 many murders were committed by the Indians, and frequent contests took place between small parties of them and the whites. In December, Colonel Harney, with ninety men in boats, penetrated into the extensive everglades in southern Florida, long supposed to be the headquarters of the enemy. These much heard of and little known retreats extend over, perhaps, one hundred miles. They are an expanse of shoal water, in depth from one to five feet, dotted with innumerable low and flat islands, generally covered with trees and shrubs. Much of the water is shaded by an almost impenetrable saw-grass, as high as a man's head, with little channels running in every direction. He succeeded in capturing a band of forty-nine, of whom he caused nine to be put to death for some previous murders which it was supposed they had committed.
Arms Of Alabama.
Alabama
is an Indian expression, said to signify “here we rest.” It is supposed that its soil was first visited by white men in 1540, that being the year when its territory was traversed by the followers of De Soto, in his celebrated expedition through Florida to the Mississippi. After a long and disastrous march, De Soto arrived with his cavalcade by the waters of the Coosa, having made his entry into Alabama from the northern part of Georgia, where he had been searching for gold. The country of the Coosa tribe embraced the present counties of Cherokee, Benton, Talladega and Coosa.
From Coosa the expedition advanced toward Tallapoosa. Crossing the Tallapoosa, they were received by Tuscaloosa, an Indian chieftain, who was “lord over many territories and much people, and was feared by his neighbors and subjects.” Passing down the western side of Alabama River with Tuscaloosa, De Soto arrived at Maubila, the capital of the country. This place consisted of eighty handsome houses, each sufficiently capacious to contain a thousand men. They were encompassed by a high wall made of immense trunks of trees, set deep in the ground and close together, strengthened with cross-timbers and interwoven with large vines. This place is supposed to have occupied the present site of Choctaw Bluff, in Clarke county, about twenty-five miles above the confluence of the Alabama and Tombigbee.
It appears that Tuscaloosa had taken measures after De Soto came within his capital, to seize him and his men as prisoners. De Soto having discovered the plot took measures of defense. The attack was begun by an Indian chief, who rushed out of a house and loudly denounced the Spaniards as
robbers, thieves and assassins.
A murderous conflict ensued. The Indians, supposed to have been upward of ten thousand in number, joined by many of their young women, fought desperately, and for a time the conflict seemed doubtful. De Soto, mounted upon his horse, calling loudly upon
“our Lady and Santiago,”
rushed boldly upon the enemy, and forced his way over hundreds
“At the time of De Soto's expedition, Alabama was inhabited by the Coosas, Talassees, Mobilians and Choctaws. Being nearly destroyed by his invasion, the Muscogees and Alabamas, who had been driven out of Mexico by Cortez, occupied their places. The Muscogees were a warlike race, and conquered the tribes with whom they came in contact. They extended their conquests, and overrun Georgia to the Savannah River. They received into their tribe the relies of the Alabamas, Tuskegeegs, and several other tribes. The Muscogee confederacy at length became the most formidable in the country. They received the name of “Creeks,” from the number of beautiful streams flowing through their country.
After the invasion of De Soto, the soil of Alabama appears to have been untrodden by Europeans for nearly a century and a half. In 1702, Bienville, the governor of Louisiana, sailed up the bay of Mobile, and at the mouth of Dog River commenced the erection of a fort, a warehouse, and other public buildings. The fort was long designated as Fort St. Louis de la Mobile. Here was the seat of government for nine years. At the end of this period, in 1711, the French moved up to the mouth of Mobile River, where they founded the present city of Mobile.
Bienville, the French governor, pursued a friendly policy with the natives, and endeavored to secure the friendship and alliance of various tribes upon the Mobile River and its tributaries. Mobile being the seat of government, various delegations of Indian chiefs, Spaniards from Vera Cruz, and Canadians from the northern lakes and rivers, repaired there to see Governor Bienville upon business. The English traders from Virginia and Carolina were a source of great annoyance to the French. During the wars between France and England, the latter power instigated the Indians against the French colonists. To stop their expeditions, Bienville located a fort upon the Alabama at Tuskegee. In 1721, three French war-ships, loaded with African slaves, arrived at Mobile. Ultimately the disasters of the colonists caused the abandonment of Mobile to a later period.
At the treaty of Paris, in 1763, the French gave up their possessions on the continent of America. The western bank of the Mississippi, from its source to its mouth, but including the island of New Orleans on the other bank, passed into the hands of Spain, while Great Britain acquired Canada, all the territory east of the Mississippi as far south as the Bayou Iberville, and the whole of Florida. The whole of Alabama and Mississippi, and that portion of Louisiana north of a line drawn through the Bayou Iberville, the Amite, lakes Maurepas and Pontchartrain, to the sea, and east of the Mississippi River, became thus a British possession, known until 1781 as West Florida and the province of Illinois. Alabama was divided on the parallel of 32° 28′ between West Florida and Illinois, in nearly equal divisions, and Montgomery and Wetumpka, which are but fifteen miles apart, were in different jurisdictions.
George Johnson, the first British governor, organized a military government, garrisoned the fort at Mobile, and that of Toulouse, up the Coosa The first English inhabitants of Mobile died in great numbers, from habit, of intemperance, exposure, and contagious disorders, introduced by the military. The exports of Mobile, in 1772, were indigo, raw hides, corn, cattle, tallow, rice, pitch, bear's oil, lumber, fish, etc. Cotton was cultivated in small quantities. The charter granted to Georgia comprised within its limits all the territory westward to the Mississippi. That state, considering its title to these lands as perfect, made grants to various companies, for the purpose of settlement. Two sets of these, known as the
“Yazoo Grants,”
have acquired a celebrity in history. By the first, five millions of acres in Mississippi were granted to the South Carolina Yazoo Company; seven millions to the Virginia Yazoo Company; and 3,500,000 acres in Alabama to the Tennessee Company. The United States authorities opposed these grants, and the several companies having failed to pay the purchase money, Georgia rescinded her patents. Several years afterward, Georgia made other and more considerable grants. These sales raised a storm throughout the country; they were denounced by Gen. Washington, in his message to congress, and, eventually, they were declared null and void.
Alabama, at this period, was almost entirely in the occupation of the natives. There was a garrison of Spanish troops at Mobile, and also at St. Stephens, on the Tombigbee, with trading posts upon the Oconee, and on other points in the south and west. The whole country west of the present limits of Georgia, to the Mississippi, was now purchased by the United States, and, in 1817, was erected into the “Mississippi Territory.” Fort Stoddard was built near the confluence of the Alabama and Tombigbee, and the county of Washington laid out, embracing a space out of which 20 counties in Alabama and 12 in Mississippi have since been made.
At the period of the second war with Great Britain, Alabama was a theater of Indian warfare, as a great part of the state was then inhabited by a number of tribes of Indians, of whom the Creeks were the principal. In 1812, the Creeks having been stirred up to war by Tecumseh, the celebrated Shawnee warrior, commenced hostile operations. In August, they fell on Fort Mimms; the garrison made a desperate resistance, but out of three hundred men, women and children, only seventeen survived the massacre. The adjoining states were now roused to action. In November, Gen. Jackson, assisted by Generals Coffee, Floyd, and Claiborne, entered the Indian country, and defeated the Indians at Talladega, where 290 of their warriors were slain. In November, Gen. Floyd attacked the Creeks on their sacred ground, at Autossee. Four hundred of their houses were burned, and 200 of their bravest men killed, among whom were the kings of Autossee and Tallahassee.
The last stand of the Creeks was at Tohopeka, a place called the
“Horseshoe Bend.
” Here the Indians fought desperately, but were entirely defeated with the loss of nearly 600 men. The victory ended in the submission of the remaining warriors, and in 1814, a treaty of peace was concluded, and the Creeks have now removed westward of the Mississippi. In 1816, a cession was obtained from the Indians of all the territory from the head waters of the Coosa westward to Cotton Gin Point and to a point running thence to Caney Creek on the Tennessee. The territorial government being established, the seat of government was located at St. Stephens. William W. Bibb was appointed governor, and the first legislature was convened in 1818.
Alabama lies between 31° and 35° N., and 8° 8′ and 11° 29′ W. from Washington. It is 317 miles long from north to south, and 174 miles broad, bounded N. by Tennessee, E. by Georgia and Florida, S. by Florida and the Gulf of Mexico, and W. by Mississippi. The north-eastern part of the state, being the region of the termination of the range of the Alleghany Mountains, is hilly, broken, and somewhat mountainous. The southern part, bordering on the Gulf of Mexico, is low and level, and mostly covered with pines. The soil and climate of Alabama varies with the position and elevation of its parts. In the north the soil is moderately fertile; in the central part, which is less elevated and undulating, it is well watered, and in the river bottoms, the land is extremely rich and productive. The most prominent productions of the state are
cotton
—of which in yield it stands first in quantity of any state in the Union—corn, wheat, and rice. Tobacco and sugar are also raised to some extent.
Alabama is rich in mineral productions. The whole central region is underlaid with vast beds of iron ore, or occupied by coal measures of great thickness and extent. The coal is of a bituminous character, and well adapted for steamboats and factories. Various establishments for manufacturing iron have been erected, and their products have become extensive and valuable. The river navigation in the state is quite extensive, in its various windings measuring at least 2,000 miles. The great body of the products of Alabama find their way to Mobile, the commercial emporium, by means of the Alabama and Tombigbee Rivers and their branches. The Baptists and Methodists are the most numerous religious denominations in the state. Population in 1820, was 127,901, of whom 41,879 were slaves; in 1850, it had increased to 771,671, of whom 342,892 were slaves. In 1860, the population was 955,917, of whom 435,473 were slaves.
Mobile,
the principal city and commercial emporium of Alabama, is situated on the west bank of Mobile River, just above its entrance into Mobile Bay, 330 miles S.W. of Montgomery by the river, 166 N.E. from New Orleans, and 1,566 from New York. Population is about 25,000. The city is built on an extended plain, dry and sandy, and elevated about 15 feet above the highest tides. It has a fine prospect of the bay, extending about 30 miles, with an average width of 12 miles, to the Gulf of Mexico. Immediately opposite the city is a low island, covered with high grass and rushes, known as “the marsh.” Above, on the banks of the river, is a large swamp; back from the city the dry, sandy hills commence, affording a delightful and healthy retreat from the heat and sickness during the summer; and here have sprung up the pleasant villages of Toulminville, Spring Hill, Cottage Hill, and others.
The streets of Mobile are generally wide and, of late years, have been much improved by shade trees. The warm season, though tempered by the sea breezes, is somewhat relaxing to the system. During the coldest season the ground is but seldom frozen. The city contains a United States Hospital, City Hospital, and about 20 churches, among which is a splendid
North View of St. Louis Wharf, Mobile.
Showing one of the principal wharves for the unlading of cotton and other articles; some of the stores and warehouses appear on the right and the shipping in the distance.
In 1702, Bienville, the French governor of Louisiana, with forty sailors and some ship carpenters, began the construction of a warehouse on Dauphin Island, at the entrance of Mobile Bay. He then sailed up the bay, and, at the mouth of Dog River, began the erection of a fort, a warehouse, and other buildings. “This place was called Mobile, from the spacious bay upon which it was situated, so named after a tribe of Indians who had resolutely fought De Soto upon the field of Maubila. In 1704, two years afterward, the colony is represented, in an official dispatch, as having 180 men capable of bearing arms, two French families with three little girls and seven boys, six Indian boys (slaves), from 15 to 20 years of age, 80 wooden houses one story high, covered with palm leaves and straw, 9 oxen, 14 cows, 4 bulls, 6 calves, 100 hogs, 3 kids, and 400 hens.
The colonists suffering from famine, were temporarily relieved by the governor of Pensacola, but being again destitute of provisions, were forced to disperse themselves along the coast, to procure fish and oysters for a subsistence. By the arrival of two vessels of war from France, abundance was restored. On board of one of these, the Pelican, was La Vente, of the foreign mission, sent as rector by the Bishop of Quebec. He was accompanied by four priests,
“His majesty sends twenty girls to be married to the Canadians, and to the other inhabitants of Mobile, in order to consolidate the colony. All these girls are industrious, and have received a pious and virtuous education. Beneficial results to the colony are expected from their teaching their useful attainments to the Indian females. In order that none should be sent except those of known virtue and of unspotted reputation, his majesty did intrust the Bishop of Quebec with the mission of taking these girls from such establishments as, from their very nature and character, would put them at once above all suspicions of corruption. You will take care to settle them in life as well as may be/in your power, and to marry them to such men as are capable of providing them with a commodious home.”—
Gayarre's Louisiana.
It is stated that only a few months rolled round before they all found husbands. These were the first marriages solemnized in old Mobile, or, indeed, in any part of the soil of Alabama, by Christian marital rites. The first child born in the colony, and, consequently, the first
“Creole,”
* “The word
Creole is used in Louisiana to express a native-born American, whether black or white, descended from old world parents.”
The settlements around the fort, at the mouth of the bay, being subject to inundations by the high floods, Bienville determined to place his people upon more elevated ground. In 1711, all the inhabitants, excepting the garrison at the fort, removed to the Mobile River, and established themselves on the present site of Mobile. Here Bienville built a new wooden fort, which, in a few years, was destroyed to give place to an extensive fortress of brick, called, in French times, Fort Conde, and during the English and Spanish rule, Fort Charlotte. In 1712, the French government granted to Crozat, an opulent merchant, the exclusive commerce of Louisiana for fifteen years. At this time the colony, including 100 soldiers, numbered 324 souls. Cadillac was appointed governor under Crozat's charter.
Cadillac showed himself to be a very inefficient magistrate, and was full of complaints against the colony. He was removed from his office, and, in 1717, was succeeded by De l'Epinay, whose administration also proved unfortunate. All the efforts of Crozat to increase the population proved futile, and several millions worth of merchandise, which he had sent to Louisiana with the hope of their finding their way to Mexico, had been lost for want of a market. Crozat finally became so discouraged that he resigned his charter to the king. In 1763, Mobile was ceded by France to Great Britain. In 1780, it was surrendered to Spain, and in April, 1813, it became a portion of the United States. It was incorporated as a city in 1819.
Fort Morgan, formerly Fort Bowyer, stands at the mouth of Mobile Bay. In September, 1814, a British fleet, under Com. Percy, made an attack on the fort, which was defended by Maj. Lawrence, with 130 men. The British were repulsed with a total loss of 232 men—the American loss 4 killed and 4 wounded. The victory of the Americans at New Orleans, forced the British to abandon the banks of the Mississippi, after which they hovered about Mobile Point. Five thousand men landed from their ships and
Fort Morgan, Mobile Point.
The new and now principal cemetery in Mobile, is situated about one mile southwest of the court house. John N. Maffit, * Mr. Maffit emigrated to New York, from Ireland, about the year 1820. He was originally connected with a clothing store in Dublin, and joined a Methodist Society in that city. Soon after his arrival in this country, he became an itinerant in the Methodist connection Perhaps no preacher, since the days of Whitfield, ever drew such crowds together, of all classes of persons, in every part of the country. He was a most impassioned speaker: his success in turning many from the error of their ways was remarkable. Some years before his death, it was estimated that upward of 20,000 were added to the Methodist societies through his instrumentality, beside great numbers who joined other denominations. As an orator, he was pre-eminent. The various intonations of his musical voice, expressing the different passions which move the human mind, his animated countenance, his flashing eyes all carried conviction to his audience that the speaker's soul was in his subject. Though short of stature, he was graceful in action, elegant in language, and perfectly self reliant. At times his descriptive genius was exhibited with a pathos and sublimity rarely equaled Like Wesley and Whitfield, he left his wife behind while on his itinerating career. After the death of his first wife, at Galveston, Texas, Mr. Maffit married a young lady in Brooklyn, N. Y., nearly 40 years younger than himself. This appears to have been an unfortunate step. Continuing his intinerating career, his young wife soon after died. When preaching in Mobile, his enemies—of whom he had many—forwarded from Brooklyn various charges affecting his moral character. These were of such a grave nature, that his brethren were obliged to suspend his preaching, giving him a limited time to answer these allegations. He sunk under this last attack, and it is said that he literally died of a broken heart Upon a post mortem
examination, the left wall of his heart was found to have been worn to the consistence of thin paper. His mental sufferings at times were well known to have produced a powerful effect on his bodily frame. That he was guilty of many of what are called trifling imprudences can not be successfully denied, but it is believed that no overt act of immorality was ever proved against him. With his dying breath, he declared himself a calumniated man. He said, that during his pastoral life he had been guilty of many frivolous, but no criminal acts; forgave his enemies, expressed an unalterable trust in Jesus Christ, and did not doubt but that all would be well. One of Mr. Maffit's sons is an officer in the U. S. navy: his daughter is the wife of Gov. Lamar, of Texas. The following notice of Mr. Maffit's death is from the Mobile Tribune, of May 9, 1850: “Late yesterday afternoon, after a few hours of severe illness, John Newland Maffit breathed his last, at the residence of Maj. Chamberlain, at Toulminville. Soon after the attack, Dr. Gains was called in, and found the patient suffering from excruciating pain in the pit of the stomach. Medicine was speedily administered, and a favorable change occurred within a few moments. Afterward calomel was given with the happiest effect, the cold and clammy state of the extremities and surface giving place to a warm and healthy glow. But suddenly the pain returned, and shifting to the region of the heart, soon produced death. Dr. Gains denominates it a spasm of the heart.”
Erected to the memory of
Henry Goldthwaite,
one of the Judges of the Supreme Court of Alabama, who died of the yellow fever the 19th of Oct., 1847, aged 45 years. Leaving for his family the inheritance of a spotless reputation; and for the State of Alabama the records of a Judicial life characterized by learning, labor, the faithful observance of his public duties, an unswerving rectitude of purpose. Vivit enim vivetque semper; atque etiam latius in memoria hominum et sermone versabitur, postquom ab oculis recessit.
To the memory of
William Crawford,
late judge of the district courts of Alabama, who died Feb. 27th, 1849, in the 65th year of his age. He was urbane and generous in his intercourse, enlightened and accurate in his judgment, learned and laborious in his profession, faithful in public trusts, and untiring in the performance of duty: affectionate, sincere and cordial as a husband, father and friend. His family who appreciate his worth and mourn his death have erected this tribute to his memory.
Here rest the remains of
Samuel Warren,
born at Middlebury, Vermont, died at Mobile June 23d, 1844, aged 32 years. This monument is erected by his friends as a small memento of a man who nursed through all our epidemics; alike to the poor and the rich, his only reward an approving conscience and the smiles of heaven!!! Reader go, and do thou likewise!!
In memory of
Henry V. Chamberlain,
who was born in Worcester, Mass., Jan. 11th, 1777, and died in Mobile, Dec. 1st, 1855, where he had spent more than 40 years of his life. He was the constant friend of the poor and lowly, whom he always sought to elevate and protect. “Alliusque et idem naceris.”
Sacred to the memory of
Robert Grigg, Esq.
, formerly a merchant of East Love, Cornwall, Eng., who was appointed on the 3d of March, 1845, her Britannic Majesty's Consul for the States of Alabama and Florida, to reside in Mobile, and died in the discharge of his duties on the 20th day of Feb., 1848, in the 56th year of his age, leaving a widow and eight children in England to deplore their irreparable loss.
In Memory of
Dr. Carl Von Emden,
a native of Vienna, Germany, who died Sept. 26th, 1853, in his 32d year. Because of his ardent patriotism, he was driven into exile, where he strove to soothe the wounds of his disappointed hopes and blighted affections by devotion to his humane profession, falling a martyr to it. May he find beyond the grave what was denied him on earth.
Memento of affection and gratitude: To
Maria B.
, wife of Dr.
Geo. Lingen,
and daughter of Sir John and Lady Oldmixon, of England. She died on the 16th of Sept., 1853, in her 54th year, closing a life of angelic purity and self devotion by following through a fearful epidemic, the example of Ruth, in whose words she spake to her husband, “Entreat me not to leave thee or to return after following thee, for whither thou goest, I will go, and where thou lodgest I will lodge: thy people shall be my people, and thy God, my God. Where thou diest, I will die, and there will I be buried.
Montgomery City,
the capital of Alabama, is on an elevated bluff on the Alabama River, at the head of steamboat navigation, 118 miles southeasterly from Tuscaloosa, the former capital. There is now a continuous
Western View in the Central part of Montgomery.
The reservoir of waste water from the Artesian well is seen in the foreground, in Court Square. The State House, or Capitol, appears in the distance, on elevated ground, at the head of Market-street, about half a mile distant front the Reservoir.
The territory of the present county of Montgomery contained a few white inhabitants as early as 1792. The ancient Indian name for the location on which the city of Montgomery is now built, was
Econchate
, or
“Red Earth.
” The first settlers were traders, who located themselves at the southern suburbs of the city. Among the first settlers of the county was a white woman, who had lived with her husband at Savannah. He was a soldier in one of the British regiments, but deserted from the army, when she fled with him to the Chattahoochie. He died at Cusseta, and his bold and adventurous wife continued to wander through the Creek nation, and finally settled in the present county of Montgomery, upon the eastern side of a creek which still bears her name, for she was called by no other name than
“Milly.
” Here among the Cuwalla Indians, she established herself, without husband, father, children, or even a single friend. Espousing one of the sons of the forest, she soon began to have comforts around her. Her stock of cattle became large, to which, in a few years, was added a drove of ponies. For many
The following account of some of the principal events, in this region of country, during the Creek war of 1813-14, is extracted from Perkins' History. The massacre at Fort Mimms, in Aug., 1813, spread consternation and dismay throughout all the settlements in Alabama, and the inhabitant fled without delay to various places for safety. The neighboring states of Tennessee and Georgia were roused to vigorous exertions. A body of 1,801 volunteers, under Gen. Floyd, were marched into the southern section of the Creek Nation, from the state of Georgia. The legislature of Tennessee passed an act to raise 3,500 men to act against the Indians, and $300,000 were voted to be used to defray the expenses. Generals Jackson and Cocke were appointed commanders.
“The first object to which the troops under General Jackson were directed, was their encampments at the Tallustaches towns, on the Coosa river, a northern branch of the Alabama. On the 2d of November, General Coffee was detached with a part of his brigade of cavalry, and a corps of mounted riflemen, amounting to nine hundred, against this assemblage. He arrived on the morning of the third, and encircled the encampment with his cavalry; when he had approached within half a mile, the Creeks sounded the war-whoop and prepared for action. Captain Hammond's and Lieutenant Patterson's companies advanced within the circle and gave a few shots for the purpose of drawing out the enemy. The Creeks formed and made a violent charge. Captain Hammond, according to his orders, gave way, and was pursued by the Indians, until they met the right column, which gave them a general fire, and then charged. The Indians immediately retreated within and behind their buildings, and fought with desperation; but their destruction was soon accomplished. The soldiers rushed up to the doors of their houses, broke them open, and in a few minutes killed the last warrior of them: not one escaped to carry the news. None asked for quarters, but fought as long as they could stand or sit, and met death in various shapes without a groan. Two hundred warriors were killed, eighty-four women and children taken prisoners and discharged; of General Coffee's troops only five were killed, and forty-one wounded.
General Jackson established his head-quarters at the Ten Islands on the Coosa, and fortified his position, giving it the name of Camp Strother. On the evening of the 7th of November, a runner arrived from the friendly Indians at the Tallageda fort, thirty miles below on the same river, giving information that the hostile Creeks had encamped in great force near that place, and were preparing to destroy it, earnestly soliciting immediate assistance. General Jackson determined on commencing his march the same night, and dispatched a runner to General White, informing him of his movement, and urging him to hasten his march to Camp Strother, to protect it in his absence. He had previously ordered General White to form a junction with him as speedily as possible, and received his assurances that he would be with him on the 7th. General Jackson immediately commenced crossing the river at the Ten Islands, leaving his baggage wagons and whatever might retard his progress in the camp, and halted at midnight within six miles of the Tallageda. Here a runner arrived with a note from General White informing him that he had altered his course, and was on his march back to join General Cocke at the mouth of the Chataga.
Battle of Tallageda.
—It was then too late for the general to change his plan of operations, or make any new arrangements. He renewed his march at three o clock, and at sunrise, came within half a mile of his enemy, whom he found encamped a quarter of a mile in advance of the fort, He immediately formed the line of battle; the militia on the left, the volunteers on the right, and the cavalry on the wings; and advanced in a curve keeping his rear connected with the advance of the infantry line, so as to inclose the enemy in a circle. The advance guard met the attack of the Indians with intrepidity, and having poured upon them four or five rounds, fell back to the main body. The enemy pursued, and were met by the front line. This line was broken, and several companies of militia retreated.
Gen. White, who considered himself as under the command of Gen. Cocke, was ordered by that officer to attack the Hillabee towns. On the morning of the 18th of November, he surrounded and surprised the town of the Hillabees, killed 60 warriors, took 256 prisoners, and returned to Fort Armstrong without the loss of a man, either killed or wounded. While the Tennessee forces were performing these operations in the northern sections of the Creek country, the Georgia troops, under Gen. Floyd, entered their territory from the east.
“The general, having received information that a number of hostile Indians had assembled at the Autosee towns, on the southern bank of the Talapoosa, eighteen miles from the Hickory ground, and twenty above the junction of that river with the Coosa, proceeded to that place with a corps of nine hundred and fifty militia, and four hundred friendly Indians; and on the morning of the 29th of November, at half past six, appeared in line of battle, in front of the principal town. The Indians presented themselves at every point, and fought with desperate fury. The well directed fire of the artillery, and the charge of the bayonet, soon drove them from the ground, and obliged them to take shelter in the copses, thickets, and out-houses in rear of the town. Many concealed themselves in caves previously provided as places of retreat, along the high bluffs on the river, which were thickly covered with reeds and brush-wood. The friendly Indians were divided into four companies, under leaders of their own choice, and directed to cross Canhabee Creek, and occupy that flank to prevent escapes from the Tallisee town, situated about one hundred rods below the Autosee. Instead of obeying this order, soon after the action commenced, most of them thronged in disorder into the rear of the lines; but the Covetans under M'Intosh, and the Tookabotchians, under Mad Dog's son, joined the flanks of the militia, and fought with a bravery equal to disciplined troops. At nine o'clock, the Indians were completely driven from the plain, and the houses of both towns were in flames. Warriors from eight towns had assembled at Autosee, which their prophets had taught them to believe was holy ground, on which no white man could tread without inevitable destruction. Four hundred buildings were burned, some of which were of a superior cast for the dwellings of savages. The loss of the Indians was estimated at two hundred killed; among whom were the Autosee and Tallisee kings. The number of wounded could not be ascertained, as they were taken off by their friends, but must have been very considerable. General Floyd was severely wounded, and Adjutant General Newman slightly. The whole loss of the Georgians was eleven killed, and fifty-four wounded. The friendly Indians lost several killed and wounded, but their loss was not great, as most of them sought places of safety at the commencement of the action. From the Autosee towns, General Floyd, after resting several days, proceeded to Camp Defiance, fifty miles further to the west, into the enemy's country. At this place, at 5 o'clock in the morning of the 2d of January, his camp was assailed by a desperate band of hostile Indians, who stole unobserved upon the sentinels, fired on them, and immediately rushed on the lines. In twenty minutes the troops were formed in order of battle, and the action became general. The front and both flanks were closely pressed once, but the skillful conduct of the officers, and firmness of the men, repulsed the enemy at every point.”
On January 17, 1814, Gen. Jackson, finding himself in a situation to commenceEmuckfau
, with great fury. Gen. Jackson, being on the alert, encamped his men in a hollow square, stood his ground, and forced the enemy to retire. Being somewhat crippled, and rather short of provisions, Jackson began a retreat to Fort Strother. When at
Enotochopko
Creek, he was again attacked, and he once more succeeded in putting his enemies to flight. In these two conflicts, the American loss was 20 killed and 75 wounded; among the killed were Maj. Donaldson and Capt. Hamilton. The Indians lost at least 189 warriors.
The Creeks still continued to concentrate their forces at the great bend of the Tallapoosa, usually called
Horse Shoe
by the whites, and
Tohopeka
by the Indians, a word in their language said to signify a horse shoe. The peninsula formed by the bend contained about 100 acres, on which was a village of some 200 houses. About 1,000 Indians, from the adjoining districts, had fortified themselves on the peninsula with great skill, having a formidable breastwork built of large logs. They had also an ample supply of provisions and ammunition.
“On the 16th of March, 1814, General Jackson, having received considerable reinforcements of volunteers from Tennessee, and friendly Indians, left Fort Strother with his whole disposable force, amounting to about three thousand of every description, on an expedition against this assemblage of Indians. He proceeded down the Coosa sixty miles to the mouth of Cedar Creek, where he established a post called Fort Williams, and proceeded on the 24th across the ridge of land dividing the waters of the Coosa from the Tallapoosa; and arrived at the great bend on the morning of the 27th, having the three preceding days opened a passage through the wilderness of fifty-two miles. On the 26th he passed the battle ground of the 22d of January, and left it three miles in his rear. General Coffee was detached with seven hundred cavalry, and mounted gunmen, and six hundred friendly Indians, to cross the river below the bend, secure the opposite banks, and prevent escape. Having crossed at the Little Island ford, three miles below the bend, his Indians were ordered silently to approach and line the banks of the river, while the mounted men occupied the adjoining hights, to guard against reinforcements, which might be expected from the Oakfusky town, eight miles below. Lieutenant Bean, at the same time, was ordered to occupy Little Island, at the fording-place, to secure any that might attempt to escape in that direction. In the mean time, General Jackson, with the artillery and infantry, moved on in slow and regular order to the isthmus, and planted his guns on an eminence one hundred and fifty yards in front of the breastwork. On perceiving that General Coffee had completed his arrangements below, he opened a fire upon the fortification, but found he could make no other impression with his artillery than boring shot-holes through the logs. General Coffee's Indians on the bank,
hearing the roaring of the cannon in front, and observing considerable confusion on the peninsula, supposing the battle to be nearly won, crossed over and set fire to the village, and attacked the Creeks in the rear. At this moment General Jackson ordered an assault upon the works in front. The regular troops, led by Colonel Williams, accompanied by a part of the militia of General Dougherty's brigade, led on by Colonel Russell, presently got possession of a part of the works, amid a tremendous fire from behind them. The advance guard was led by Colonel Sisler, and the left extremity of the line by Captain Gordon of the spies, and Captain M'Marry of General Johnson's brigade of West Tennessee militia. The battle for a short time was obstinate, and fought musket to musket through the port-holes; when the assailants succeeded in getting possession of the opposite side of the works, and the contest ended. The Creeks were entirely routed, and the whole margin of the river strewed with the slain. The troops under General Jackson, and General Coffee's Indians, who had crossed over into the peninsula, continued the work of destruction as long as there was a Creek
This decisive victory put an end to the Creek war. In the short period of five months, from the first of November to the first of April, two thousand of their warriors, among whom were their principal prophets and kings, had been slain, most of their towns and villages burned, and the strong places in their territory occupied by the United States troops. After this battle, the miserable remnant of the hostile tribes submitted. Weatherford, the principal surviving chief and prophet, who led the Indians at Fort Mimms, accompanied his surrender with this address to General Jackson:
‘I fought at Fort Mimms—I fought the Georgia army—I did you all the injury I could. Had I been supported as I was promised, I would have done you more. But my warriors are all killed. I can fight no longer. I look back with sorrow that I have brought destruction upon my nation. I am now in your power. Do with me as you please. I am a soldier.’”
Eastern View of Selma.
The above shows the appearance of Selma steamboat landing, as it is approached sailing down the river; on the right, on the elevated limestone banks, is seen the commencement of the Alabama and Tennessee Railroad, also the apparatus for conveying coal to the boats below. The warehouses for cotton, etc., from which cotton bales are conveyed by slides to the steamboats, appear in the central part.
Selma,
Dallas county, on the right bank of the Alabama River, is situated 82 miles westward of Montgomery, by the river, and 10 miles above Cahaba, and about 150 above Mobile. It is a flourishing place, containing 6 churches about 4,000 inhabitants, and several iron foundries and other manufacturing establishments. Two railroads, the Alabama and Mississippi and the Alabama and Tennessee River, diverge from this place. It is situated in the midst of a fertile cotton growing section, and large quantities of cotton are shipped at this point. Bituminous coal from Shelby county, about 50 miles
Cahaba
, the capital of Dallas county, is on the right bank of Alabama River, and, by the stream, is 16 miles below Selma. It was formerly the capital of the state, and contains a court house, several churches, an academy, and about 1,000 inhabitants.
Demopolis
, Marengo county, adjoining Dallas county, is on the right bank of the Tombigbee River, immediately below the entrance of the Black Warrior, and 220 miles from Mobile. It contains a United States land office, several churches, and about 1,000 inhabitants. This place was first settled by a colony of French, who were obliged to leave their native country on account of their attachment to the Emperor Napoleon, then an exile at St. Helena. The winter of 1816–17 found many of these distinguished refugees in Philadelphia. In March, 1817, Congress authorized the sale of four townships to them, at two dollars per acre, on a credit of fourteen years, upon condition they cultivated the vine and the olive. They concluded to settle near the confluence of the Black Warrior and Tombigbee, and removed thither in 1818, having previously organized themselves into a company of 340 allottees.
The French emigrants proceeded by water to Mobile, and from thence by boats to the place where they intended to establish themselves, which was an immense forest of trees and cane, interspersed with prairie. They erected their cabins about the Pine Bluff, on the Tombigbee. Being accustomed to Parisian life, they proved very indifferent pioneers. They, however, endeavored to raise provisions on small patches, without knowing upon what tract in the grant they were to live in future. The meridian being established, the grant was divided into townships and sections. A town was formed at White Bluff, which was called Demopolis—
the City of the People.
The principal portion of the French grant lay in
Marengo
, so named in honor of the great battle fought during the French Republic.
Among the French emigrants were many distinguished persons. Count Lefebre Desnoettes was a lieutenant general under Napoleon, and rode with him in his carriage in his retreat from Russia. He was handsome in person and graceful in carriage, and the most splendid horseman of the time in which he lived. While in Marengo county, he often received large sums of money from France. Near his main dwelling he had a log cabin which he called his sanctuary, in the center of which stood a bronze statue of Napoleon, surrounded by trophies taken in war. Having obtained permission from the French government to reside in Belgium, he was drowned on his passage thither in the ship Albion, which was wrecked in 1823, on the coast of Ireland at old Kinsale.
Col. Rooul was an officer under Bonaparte, and accompanied his imperial master when banished to Elba. He lived several years on his grant, and, becoming much reduced in his circumstances, was forced to keep a ferry at French Creek, three miles from Demopolis, he acting in person as ferryman. His wife was a beautiful Italian woman, who had been Marchioness of Sinabaldi and maid of honor to Queen Caroline, when Murat was King of Naples. In 1824, Col. Rooul and his wife left their cabin on French Creek, emigrated to Mexico, and from thence returned to France, where he, for a long time, held an honorable commission in the French army. Cluis, who had been an aid to Marshal Lefebvre, the Duke of Rivigo, cultivated a farm near Greensboro'. Like all the other refugees, he found planting the vine and olive aSimon Chaudron
, one of the settlers, was an editor and a poet of considerable reputation. He died in Mobile, in 1846, at an advanced age, and left several works which were published in France. Gen. Count Bertrand Clausel, an officer of merit, did not occupy his grant, but became a citizen of Mobile in 1821, and furnished the market with vegetables, driving a cart himself. He returned to France in 1825, and became governor and marshal of Algeria.
Among the refugees who sought homes in Alabama, was the Spanish Gen. Rico, a member of the Cortes, and a distinguished officer in the army. He was a person of uncommon energy, and made an excellent farmer. He was recalled to Spain in 1825. The following extract is from Pickett's History of Alabama, a most valuable and interesting work, published in 1851:
“In addition to the ruinous failure of the vine and olive, the French were continually annoyed by unprincipled American
squatters.
Occupying their lands without a shadow of title, they insultingly told the French that they intended to maintain their footing at all hazards. Several law-suits arose, and although our supreme court decided in favor of the grantees, yet the latter became worn out with controversies, and allowed the intruders, in many cases, to retain possession for a small remuneration. On the other hand, many honorable Americans purchased their grants, for fair considerations, and thus the French refugees were gradually rooted from the soil.
Judson Female Institute, Marion.
But, in the midst of all their trials and vicissitudes, the French refugees were happy. Immured in the depths of the Tombigbee forest, where, for several years, want pressed them on all sides—cut off from their friends in France—surrounded by the Choctaws on one side, and the unprincipled squatters and land-thieves on the other—assailed by the venom of insects and prostrating fevers—nevertheless, their native gaiety prevailed. Being in the habit of much social intercourse, their evenings were spent in conversation, music and dancing. The larger portion were well educated, while all had seen much of the world; and such materials were ample to afford an elevated society. Sometimes their distant friends sent them rich wines and other luxuries, and upon such occasions, parties were given, and the foreign delicacies brought back many interesting associations. Well cultivated gardens, and the abundance of wild game, rendered the common living of the French quite respectable. The female circle was highly interesting. They had brought with them their books, guitars, silks, parasols and ribbons, and the village, in which most of them dwelt, resembled, at night, a miniature French
Marion,
the capital of Perry county, is situated 26 miles N. from Selma, with which it is connected by railroad. It is in an elevated, broken and dry region, distant from any river, creek, or swamp, and is remarkable for salubrity. The village contains several female seminaries, the Howard College, for young men, five churches, a fine court house, and about 3,000 inhabitants. The Marion Female Seminary, a flourishing institution, was established in the infancy of the place. The Judson Female Institute, having about 250 pupils, was established in 1839. It was originated by a few private individuals, who afterward presented it to the Baptist denomination. The Howard College, having about 100 pupils, was founded in 1841. Both of these last named institutions are owned by the Baptist State Convention of Alabama, and are under their patronage.
The following inscription is copied from a perpendicular marble shaft, ten feet high, in the graveyard in this place:
Harry,
servant of H. Talbird, D.D., President of Howard College, who lost his life from injuries received while rousing the students, at the burning of the College building, on the night of Oct. 15th, 1854, aged 23 years. As a grateful tribute to his fidelity, and to commemorate a noble act, this monument has been erected by the Students of Howard College, and the Alabama Baptist Convention. He was employed as a waiter to the College, and when alarmed by the flames at midnight, and warned to escape for his life, replied, “I must wake the boys first,” and then saved their lives at the expense of his own. A consistent member of the Baptist Church, he illustrated the character of a Christian servant, faithful unto death.
At the commencement of hostilities with Great Britain in 1812, Tecumseh, the celebrated Shawnee chieftain, visited the southern Indians, and by his arts of persuasion induced them to take up arms against the United States. Gen. Claiborne, who was appointed to the defense of the country in the vicinity of Mobile, proceeded to Fort Stoddart, situated on the Mobile River, upward of forty miles above its mouth. From this point he sent the soldiers under his command to defend the settlements. The inhabitants of the Tensaw district, on the Alabama, fled to Fort Mimms, on that river, about 16 miles above. This fort was built about the residence of Samuel Mimms, a mile east from Alabama River, and two miles below the cut-off. It was garrisoned by 150 soldiers, under Maj. Beasly; these, with the white settlers, the friendly Indians, and negroes, amounted to 553 persons, who were crowded together in an Alabama swamp, in the month of August. About 1,000 Creek warriors stole up near the fort, and there lay in ambush, ready for a bloody onset: among their leaders was the celebrated
Weatherford.
On the 30th of August, 1813, in an unsuspecting moment, while the soldiers were about dining, the Indians issued from their hiding places and advanced to within a few rods before the alarm was given.
“As the sentinel cried out, “Indians,” they immediately gave a war-whoop, and rushed in at the gate before the garrison had time to shut it. This decided their fate. Major Beasly was mortally wounded at the commencement of the assault; he ordered his men to secure the ammunition, and retreat into the house; he was himself carried into the kitchen, and afterward consumed in the flames. The fort was originally square, but Major Beasly had enlarged it by extending the lines upon two sides about fifty feet, and putting up a new side, into which the gate was removed; the old lines of pickets were standing, and the Indians, on rushing in at the gate, obtained possession of the outer part, and through the port holes of the
“General Claiborne dispatched Major Joseph P. Kennedy, with a strong detachment, to Fort Mimms, from his head-quarters at Mount Vernon, for the purpose of interring the dead. Upon arriving there, Kennedy found the air darkened with buzzards, and hundreds of dogs, which had run wild, gnawing upon the human carcasses. The troops, with heavy hearts, succeeded in interring many bodies, in two large pits, which they dug. ‘Indians, negroes, white men, women, and children, lay in one promiscuous ruin. All were scalped, and the females, of every age, were butchered in a manner which neither decency nor language permit me to describe. The main building was burned to ashes, which were filled with bones. The plains and woods around were covered with dead bodies. All the houses were consumed by fire, except the block-house, and a part of the pickets. The soldiers and officers, with one voice, called on Divine Providence to revenge the death of our murdered friends.’”
Outline View of the University of Alabama, Tuscaloosa.
Tuscaloosa
is situated on the S.E. side of Black Warrior River, 94 miles N.W. of Montgomery, 120 S.W. of Huntsville, and 217 from Mobile. It is regularly built, on an elevated plain at the lower falls of the river, at the head of steamboat navigation, and until 1847, was the capital of the state. It contains the old state house, a court house, Masonic hall, an academy, a lyceum for boys, seminary for young ladies, the Alabama Institute, five churches, and the University of Alabama; population about 3,000. The University of Alabama went into operation in 1831. It is situated on the Huntsville road, half a mile from the state house. There are three buildings, three stories high, for student's dormitories, building for a laboratory
View of the Public Square, Huntsville.
The engraving shows the Court House in the center; on the right, in the distance, appears the front of the Northern Bank of Alabama.
Huntsville,
the shire town of Madison county, one of the most beautiful and well built places in the southern states, is on the line of the Charleston and Memphis railroad, about 10 miles N. of the Tennessee River, 217 N. from Montgomery, and 211 from Memphis, Tenn. The court house is of Grecian architecture, erected at an expense of $45,000, the banking house is of hewn stone, with an Ionic portico, built at a cost of $80,000. It has several churches and academies, three female seminaries, and many handsome private dwellings. The inhabitants are supplied with pure and cold water from a spring which breaks out at the foot of a rock, a few feet distant from the Northern Bank, with a power sufficient to move a forcing pump for elevating and distributing it to all the dwellings. This place presents many attractions for a permanent residence. One of the best collections of paintings and statuary in the United States is here, in the possession of Dr. Colhoun. Population about 5,000.
Huntsville received its name from Capt. John Hunt, a revolutionary soldier, the first settler, who located himself near the spring which supplies the city. The plot comprising the town was sold by the government, in 1809, to Leroy Pope: in his honor, or that of his namesake in England who wrote the Essay on Man, it was called
Twickenham
, the place of Pope's residence, near London. It was, however, changed back to Huntsville, at the next meeting of the legislature. The Presbyterians and Methodists organized the first religious societies. Rev. Dr. Blackburn at first preached in the court house, and organized the first Presbyterian society. Among the first settlers, were Gov. Clement C. Clay, father of the senator in congress of the same name;
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the Huntsville graveyard:
Rev. John Allan,
D.D., born April 21st, 1788, died April 21st, 1843. For 22 years the beloved pastor of the Presbyterian church, Huntsville. “He being dead yet speaketh.” This monument was erected by members of the Congregation.
Dr. David Moore,
born in Brunswick Co., Virginia, 25 Aug., 1787. Died 23d Sept., 1845.
He nothing knows, who knows not this,
That Earth can yield no settled bliss,
No lasting portion give.
He all things knows, who knows to place
His hopes on Christ's redeeming grace,
Who died that we might live.
Meridian.
Richard W. Anderson
caused this monument to be erected in memory of deceased relations and to perpetuate the
Huntsville Meridian.
John Anderson.
born in Montgomery Co., Maryland, died in Montgomery Co., Alabama, Oct. 9th, 1835, aged 42 yrs. 10 mo. and 6 days. [Here follow the names of other deceased relatives on this large and elegant monument.] We meet in heaven to part no more.
Here repose the mortal remains of
Thomas Bibb,
born May 8th, 1782, died Sept. 20, 1839. Sacred to the memory of
Pamelia,
consort of
Thomas Bibb,
born March 22, 1784, died Sept. 5, 1854.
Mr. Bibb was the brother of the first governor of Alabama: on the decease of his brother, he became, as president of the senate, acting governor. He died near Mooresville, about 22 miles west from Huntsville, and his remains were brought here for interment. Mrs. Bibb died near Huntsville, universally respected and lamented. She was one of the most efficient supporters of the Methodist Church in this place. With the true spirit of Christianity, she felt for the suffering poor: oftentimes she would call on Mr. Franks, the marshal and sexton, to ascertain what persons were in affliction or distress, in order that she might minister to their wants and necessities. The following inscription is from a monument in the ancient and neglected graveyard, on an elevation covered with forest trees:
Sacred to the memory of
John Williams Walker,
who died March 27th, 1823, in the 40th year of his age. “In the midst of life, we are in death.” He was President of the
Convention
which formed the
Constitution of Alabama
, and appointed by the first
Legislature
of that State a
Senator
in
Congress
, the duties of which station he discharged for 3 years, when increasing ill health compelled him to resign.
Wetumpka
is on the E. side of Coosa River, 13 miles north easterly from Montgomery. It has a fine site, at the head of steamboat navigation, and is a place of considerable trade. It contains five churches, with numerous stores, etc. The state penitentiary was located here in Oct., 1851. Population about 3,000. The
Harrowgate Springs
, in the south border of the city, are much resorted to during the summer months.
Florence
, the capital of Lauderdale county, was laid out in 1818. It is on the N. side of Tennessee River, immediately below the Muscle Shoals, and 197 miles N.W. of Montgomery. It is on an elevated plain, 100 feet above the river, which, when full, is navigable for steamboats to the Ohio. The streets are 100 feet wide, and laid off at right angles. It contains a court house, three churches, and a U. S. surveyor-general's office. Population about 2,000.
La Grange College
was founded in 1831, under the direction of the Methodists. The
Muscle Shoals
are an extensive series of rapids, in which the water, in the course of 20 miles, descends 100 feet. “The neighborhood is a famous place of resort for wild ducks and geese, which come in great flocks in search of the shell-fish from which the rapids derive their name. Boats can not pass this part of the Tennessee except at times of very high water. The canal which was built around the falls is now abandoned.
Tuscumbia
, is on the left bank of the Tennessee, five miles below Florence, and 346 miles N. from Mobile. It is on the line of the Charleston and Memphis Railroad, 144 miles E. from Memphis. It contains several churches and seminaries, and a number of manufacturing establishments. Population about 3,000. An extraordinary spring here flows from a fissure in a lime stone rock, which discharges 20,000 cubic feet of water per minute.
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES.
William Weatherford
, one of the most conspicuous war chiefs of the Creek Confederacy, was born in the Creek Nation: his father was an itinerant pedlar and his mother a full blooded Indian of the Seminole tribe. He is said to have possessed the bad qualities of both his parents, combined with many traits peculiarly his own. In person he was tall, strait, and well proportioned. His judgment and eloquence had secured the respect of the old; his vices made him the idol of the young and unprincipled. During the war of 1812 he entered fully into the views of Tecumseh, and was the principal leader at the massacre at Fort Mimms. After the final defeat, at the battle of the Horse-shoe, he voluntarily came into the camp of Gen. Jackson; it was on this occasion that he made his celebrated speech:
“I am in your power—do with me as you please—I am a soldier. I have done the whites all the harm I could. I have fought them, and fought them bravely. If I had an army, I would yet fight—I would contend to the last: but I have none. My people are all gone. I can only weep over the misfortunes of my nation.”
General Jackson was pleased with his boldness, and told him that though he was in his power, yet he would take no advantage; that he might yet join the war party, and contend against the Americans, if he chose, but to depend upon no quarter if taken afterward; and that unconditional submission was his and his people's only safety. Weatherford replied, in a tone as dignified as indignant:
“You safely address me in such terms now. There was a time when I could have answered you—there was a time when I had a choice—I have none now. I have not even a hope. I could once animate my warriors to battle—but I can not animate the dead. My Warriors can no longer hear my voice. Their bones are at Talladega, Tallushatches, Emuckfaw, and Tohopeka. I have not surrendered myself without thought. While there was a single chance of success, I never left my post, nor supplicated peace. But my people are gone, and I now ask it for my nation, not for myself. I look back with deep sorrow, and wish to avert still greater calamities. If I had been left to contend with the Georgia army, I would have raised my corn on one bank of the river, and fought them on the other. But your people have destroyed my nation. You are a brave man. I rely upon your generosity. You will exact no terms of a conquered people, but such as they should accede to. Whatever they may be, it would now be madness and folly to oppose them. If they are opposed, you shall find me amongst the sternest enforcers of obedience. Those who would still hold out, can be influenced only by a mean spirit of revenge. To this they must not, and shall not sacrifice the last remnant of their country. You have told our nation where we might go and be safe. This is good talk, and they ought to listen to it. They shall listen to it.”
After the war was over, he became a citizen of Monroe county, where he had a
Alexander M'Gillivray
was one of the greatest chiefs ever known among the Creeks. He was born about the year 1739, and was the son of an Englishman of that name, who married a Creek woman, and hence was what is called a half breed. At the age of ten years he was sent to school at Charleston, S. C. On the death of his mother, who was governess of the nation, he was elected “emperor,” by the Creeks, who had so high an opinion of him that they styled him “king of kings.” He was in the British interest during the Revolutionary war. After the peace he became reconciled to the Americans. In 1790 he visited New York, and made a treaty with the United States, and became their agent at a salary of $3,500 per annum, while at the same time, it appears, he was secretly receiving a large amount as agent for the Spanish authorities. He died Feb. 17, 1793, at Pensacola and was buried with Masonic honors.
William Wyatt Bibb
, the first governor of Alabama, was born in 1781. He was educated as a physician, and practiced in Petersburg, Georgia, In 1806, at the early age of 25, he was elected a representative to congress from that state, and afterward a senator. He remained in congress until 1816, when he was appointed governor of Alabama Territory, and was afterward elected by the people, governor of the state of Alabama. He died in 1820, in the 40th year of his age. He was a man of pure moral character, graceful address, and fine talents.
William R. King
, vice president of the United States, was born in North Carolina, in 1786, was educated to the bar, served as a representative in congress from his native state, from 1811 to 1816; afterward emigrated to Alabama, which state he represented in the U. S. senate from 1819 until 1844, when he was appointed minister to France, and continued there until 1846, when he was again elected to the senate, and there remained until he was elected vice president of the United States, in 1852, on the same ticket with Franklin Pierce. His health was so feeble at this time that he went to Cuba, and the constitutional oath of office was administered there to him by the American consul. He returned to his plantation, at Cahawba, Dallas county, April 17, 1852, and died the following day. His faculties were rather solid than brilliant, and he was highly esteemed for his sound judgment and integrity of character.
Arms Of Mississippi.
The
name of this state is from the Indian words
Meach-Chassippi
, signifying “Father of Rivers.” The first Europeans who traversed its soil were De Soto and his followers, in their celebrated expedition in search of gold, about the year 1540. The Indians inhabiting its territory were the
Choctaws, Chickasaws, Natchez
, etc. For a great part of the time until the cession of 1763, most of these tribes or nations were in a state of warfare with the white intruders. La Salle, descending the rivers from the Illinois country, in 1681, visited the part of the state bordering on the Mississippi, but the first attempt to found permanent settlements on this river were made, in 1698, by Ibberville, the governor of Louisiana. His colony arrived at Ship Island in 1700, and after exploring along and beyond the Mississippi, the parties returned and built a fort at Biloxi, at the mouth of a river of that name, about 20 miles N. of the island.
In 1716, Bienville, one of the governors of Louisiana, sailed up the Mississippi as far as Natchez, erected and garrisoned a fortification, which he called
“Fort Rosalie.
” This spot had been marked down by Ibberville, in 1700, as an eligible site for a town, of which he drew a plan, and which he called
Rosalie
, the maiden name of the Countess Ponchartrain, of France.
In 1729, the Natchez Indians formed a conspiracy against the French colonists, by whom they considered themselves aggrieved. On the 28th of November, they fell upon the inhabitants by surprise, and about 700 hundred Frenchmen were massacred. The French governor of Louisiana, M. Perier, resolved on avenging the massacre, sent to the Choctaws, who furnished a body of about 1,600 warriors to assist the French against the Natchez. The Natchez, being besieged in their fort by the French, had the address, during the night, to make their escape. Learning afterward, that they had fortified themselves west of the Mississippi, the French followed them thither, and compelled them to surrender. They were taken to New
52 825
The Chickasaws were the dread of the French colonists, as they had incited the Natchez against them. They occupied a large and beautiful tract east of the Mississippi, at the head of the Tombigbee. This they would not allow the French to settle, but maintained their independence. In 1736, a force from New Orleans, under Bienville, sailed for Mobile in thirty barges and thirty large pirogues. Proceeding up the Tombigbee, they were joined by 1,200 Choctaw warriors, and the combined force moved up to the present site of Cotton-gin Port, nearly five hundred miles, by the river, from Mobile, to within about 27 miles of the stronghold of the Chickasaws, in the present county of Pontotoc. Having completed a stockade, and left a guard, Bienville advanced against the enemy. As they came in sight of the Chickasaw fort, on the 26th of May, the British flag was seen waving over its walls, and it was known that British traders were in the fort conducting the defense.
The French column advanced to the assault, with the cheering shout of
“Vive le Roi.
” Twice during the day was the assault renewed with fire and sword, but they were repulsed by the terrible fire from the fort, and having lost about 100 men, in killed and wounded, Bienville soon after broke up his encampment and took up the retrograde line of march. Having dismissed the Choctaws with presents, he threw his cannon into the Tombigbee, and floated down the river to Fort Conde, and from thence to New Orleans.
One important part of the plan of the campaign against the Chickasaws, was to have the co-operation of a force of French and Indians from Canada. D'Artaguette, the pride and flower of the French at the north, procured the aid of
“Chicago,”
the Illinois chief from the shore of Lake Michigan. His lieutenant was the gallant
Vincennes
, from the settlement on the Wabash. These heroes came down the river unobserved to the last Chickasaw bluff, and from thence penetrated into the heart of the country. On the 10th of May, they encamped, it is supposed, about six miles east of the present town of Pontotoc, near the appointed place of rendezvous with the force of Bienville. Having waited for some time in vain for intelligence from the chief commander, the Indian allies of D'Artaguette became impatient for war and plunder, and could not be restrained, when D'Artaguette consented to lead them to the attack. He drove the Chickasaws from two of their fortified villages, but was severely wounded in his attack on the third. His allies, the red men of Illinois, dismayed at this check, fled precipitately, and D'Artaguette was left weltering in his blood. Vincennes, his lieutenant, and the Jesuit Senat, their spiritual guide and friend, refusing to fly, shared the captivity of their gallant leader. They were treated with great care and attention by the Chickasaws, who were in hopes of obtaining a great ransom from Bienville, then advancing into their country. After his retreat, the Chickasaws, despairing of receiving anything for their prisoners, tortured and burnt them over a slow fire, leaving but one alive to relate their fate to their countrymen.
In 1763, France relinquished to Great Britain all her possessions east of the Mississippi, and to Spain all west of that river, and also the Island of Orleans. Spain, at the same time, gave up Florida to the British. In 1783, the country north of the parallel of 31° north latitude, was included in the limits of the United States, by the treaty acknowledging their independence, and the Floridas reverted to the Spanish crown. By its charter, the Georgia limits extended to the Mississippi. In 1795, its legislature sold 22,000,000Yazoo purchase
, to four companies, for $500,000, who afterward sold it, at advanced prices, to various persons, mostly in the eastern and middle states. The next year the legislature declared the sale unconstitutional, and ordered the records of it to be burnt. The southern section of the state was within the limits of Florida, and was purchased of Spain in 1821. In 1798, a large part of the area now comprising the states of Mississippi and Alabama, constituted the “Mississippi Territory.” In 1817, the state of Mississippi was admitted into the Union.
Mississippi is situated between 30° 10′ and 35° N. Lat., and between 80° 30′ and 81° 35′ W. Long. It is 339 miles long from N. to S., and 150 broad, containing 47,151 square miles. The southern part of the state, for about 100 miles from the Gulf shore, is mostly a sandy level pine forest, interspersed with cypress swamps, open prairies, and a few slight elevations. There are no mountains within the limits of the state, only numerous ranges of hills of moderate elevation, some of which terminate abruptly upon a level plain, or upon the banks of a river, bearing the name of
“bluffs,”
or river hills. The Mississippi River, in its various windings, forms the entire western boundary of the state, and most of the lands bordering it, from the northern line to the entrance of Yazoo River, consist of inundated swamps, covered with a large growth of timber. From Memphis, just above the northern line of Mississippi to Vicksburg, a distance of 450 miles by the river, the uplands, or river hills, are separated by inundated bottom lands of greater or less width, and afford no site suitable for a port. Below Vicksburg, the only eligible port is Natchez, 100 miles south.
The country in the south part of the state is rolling, healthy, and productive. The Yazoo is the largest river that has its whole course in the state, and the lands drained by it are very fertile. The coast, which extends along the Gulf of Mexico for about 60 miles, has no harbor for large vessels. A chain of low sand islands, six or seven miles from the shore, inclose several bays or sounds: the largest are Pascagoula Sound and Lake Borgne. Ship and Cat Islands are eligible for ocean steamers. The ports on the Mississippi are Vicksburg, Grand Gulf, and Natchez. The great staple of the state is cotton. Indian corn, rice, tobacco, hemp, etc., are also important productions. The fig and orange grow well in the lower part of the state, and the apple tree flourishes in the higher hilly regions. Population, in 1800, 8,850; in 1820, 75,448; in 1840, 375,651 in 1850, 606,555 and in 1860, 887,258, of whom 479,607 were slaves.
Jackson,
the capital of Mississippi, is about 40 miles eastward of Vicksbuag, with which it is connected by a railroad. It is situated on a plain on the left bank of Pearl River, which is navigable to this place for small steamboats. It contains the state house, the governor's house, the state penitentiary, a lunatic asylum, an asylum for the deaf and dumb, and also one for the blind, a United States land office, seven churches, and about 4,000 inhabitants.
The first settlers of Jackson and its vicinity were Col. Abram De France, Hiram G. Runnels (afterward governor,) Col. John A. Grimbel, and Gen. David Dickson. Col. De France located a few rods north of the capitol: Gov. Runnels located about two miles from the state house: Col. Grimbel about six miles to the westward. Gen. Dickson came to this place in 1828, as lieutenant governor, and located himself where his widow now resides. Mrs. Dickson has, for a long period, kept a boarding house for members of
Southern View of Jackson (Central Part.)
The view shows the southern front of the State House. The Governor's House is seen a little to the left, also the Bowman House. The City Hall and Mrs. Dickson's house are on the right.
The first church erected in Jackson was the Methodist, and the second was the Presbyterian. Messrs. Hamilton, Donund, and Halsey, were the first Presbyterian clergymen. Mr. Halsey was quite distinguished. The next in order was the Baptist. The first Baptist clergyman was Mr. Holliway. The fourth church erected was the Catholic, the fifth the Episcopal, and the last the Campbellite Baptist. Gen. Dickson, who was president of the Medical Board of Mississippi, was the first practicing physician in the place. The land on which these churches stand, was given by the state to the several societies who erected the buildings.
The first session of the “First General Assembly of the State of Mississippi,” convened in the town of Washington, in Oct., 1817. The first senators to congress were Walter Leake and Thomas H. Williams; and the first representative elected by the people was George Poindexter. At this period more than two thirds of the territory of the state was in the possession of the native tribes, the Choctaws occupying the largest portion. In 1820, the Federal Government employed Gen. Jackson, of Tennessee, and Gen. Hinds, of Mississippi, as commissioners to negotiate with the Choctaws for the purchase of lands. A treaty was effected at Doak's Stand, whereby nearly five and a half millions of acres were obtained.
The territory thus acquired, was, for many years afterward, known as the “New Purchase,” and was formed into the counties of Hinds, Simpson, Copiah, Rankin, Madison, Bolivar, Yazoo, Washington, and Holmes. It being determined to establish the seat of the state government in some central part, the general assembly, in Nov., 1820, authorized “Thomas Hinds, William Lattimore, and Peter A. Vandorn, to locate the future capital of the state near Pearl River, within the ‘New Purchase.’” They also declared that it should be “known by the name of
Jackson
, in honor of Major General Andrew Jackson.
Natchez
is on the E. bank of the Mississippi, 87 miles S.W. from Jackson, the capital of the state, and from New Orleans, by the river, 309 miles, but in a direct line, 127 miles. This is usually considered the principal city of the state, its importance arising from its being the depot of cotton, the product of the lands around it, and from being also one of the main entrepots of the internal commerce of Mississippi. The principal part of the city is built on a clayey bluff, about 150 feet high.
Natchez under the Hill
, as it is called, is that part of the city which lies upon the margin of the river, consisting of warehouses, stores, shops, etc., for the accommodation of the landing.
Western view of Natchez.
The buildings near the shore comprise “Natchez under the Hill”: part of the city above appears on the bluff. The City Hotel and part of the promenade grounds on the edge of the precipitous cliffs are seen on the left. The passage to the landing appears in the central part.
On the elevated ground the city is regularly laid out with broad streets, adorned with trees. Generally, the style of building is plain, but many of the dwellings are elegant, and their grounds beautifully ornamented with trees and shrubbery. The surface of the ground on which Natchez stands, and of the whole adjacent country, is uneven, undulating like the rolling of the sea in a storm, presenting a strong contrast to the low and level surface of the vast cypress swamps of Louisiana, seen on the opposite side of the river. The city contains a court house, five churches, several literary institutions, three banks, a hospital, orphan asylum, etc., and about 7,000 inhabitants.
“From its geographical position, and the wealth which has been expended upon its decorations, it has long been considered as one of the most beautiful places in the lower valley of the Mississippi. Its elevated site affords a fine view of this majestic river, with the numerous craft moving to and fro upon its waters; of the village of Concordia, on the opposite bank, and the vast region of country spreading out beyond. Although the city is liable occasionally to be visited with the bilious and intermittent fevers of the climate, yet its location is comparatively advantageous in this respect, and in most seasons, it proves a healthful and agreeable place of residence.”
Natchez
was a very important point in the early history of Mississippi.
“Their religion, in some respects, resembled that of the fire-worshipers of Persia. Fire was the emblem of their divinity; the sun was their god: their chiefs were called “suns,” and their king was called the “Great Sun.” In their principal temple a perpetual fire was kept burning by the ministering priest, who like-wise offered sacrifices of the first fruits of the chase. In extreme cases, they offered sacrifices of infant children, to appease the wrath of the deity. When Iberville was there, one of the temples was struck by lightning and set on fire. The keeper of the fane solicited the squaws to throw their little ones into the fire to appease the angry divinity, and four infants were thus sacrificed before the French could prevail on them to desist from the horrid rites.
After Iberville reached the Natchez tribe, the Great Sun, or king of the confederacy, having heard of the approach of the French commandant, determined to pay him a visit in person. As he advanced to the quarters of Iberville, he was borne upon the shoulders of some of his men, and attended by a great retinue of his people. He bade Iberville a hearty welcome, and showed him the most marked attention and kindness during his stay. A treaty of friendship was concluded, with permission to build a fort and to establish a trading-post among them; which was, however, deferred for many years.”
A few stragglers soon after took up their abode among the Natchez; but no regular settlement was made until 1716, when Bienville, governor of Louisiana, erected Fort Rosalie, which is supposed to have stood near the eastern limit of the present city of Natchez.
Grand
or
Great Sun
, the chief of the Natchez, was at first the friend of the whites, until the overbearing disposition of one man brought destruction on the whole colony. The residence of the
Great Sun
was a beautiful village, called the
White Apple.
This village spread over a space of nearly three miles in extent, and stood about twelve miles south of the fort, near the mouth of Second Creek, and three miles east of the Mississippi. M. de Chopart. the commandant, was guilty of great injustice toward the Indians, and went so far as to command the “Great Sun” to leave the village of his ancestors, as he wanted the ground for his own purposes. The Great Sun, finding Chopart deaf to all his entreaties, formed a plot to rid his country of the tyrant who oppressed them. Previous to the tragedy, the Sieur de Mace, ensign of the garrison, received advice of the intention of the Natchez, through a young Indian girl who loved him. She told him, crying, that her nation intended to massacre the French. Amazed at this story, he questioned his mistress. Her simple answers, and her tender tears, left him no room to doubt of the plot. He informed Chopart of it, who forthwith put him under arrest for giving a false alarm. The following is from Monette's History of the Valley of Mississippi:
“At length the fatal day arrived. It was Nov. 29, 1729. Early in the morning, Great Sun repaired, with a few chosen warriors, to Fort Rosalie, and all were well armed with knives and other concealed weapons.
The company had recently sent up a large supply of powder and lead, and provisions for the use of the post. The Indians had recourse to stratagem to procure a supply of ammunition, pretending that they were preparing for a great hunting excursion. Before they set out they wished to purchase a supply of ammunition,
Other parties, distributed through the contiguous settlements, carried on the bloody work in every house as soon as the smoke was seen to rise from the houses near the fort.
The massacre commenced at nine o'clock in the morning, and before noon the whole of the male population of the French colony on St. Catharine (consisting of about seven hundred souls) were sleeping the sleep of death. The slaves were spared for the service of the victors, and the females and children were reserved as prisoners of war. Chopart fell among the first victims; and, as the chiefs disdained to stain their hands with his despised blood, he was dispatched by the hand of a common Indian. Two mechanics,, a tailor and a carpenter, were spared, because they might be useful to the Indians.
While the massacre was progressing, the Great Sun seated himself in the spacious warehouse of the company, and, with apparent unconcern and complacency, sat and smoked his pipe while his warriors were depositing the heads of the French garrison in a pyramid at his feet. The head of Chopart was placed in the center, surmounting those of his officers and soldiers. So soon as the warriors informed the Great Sun that the last Frenchman had ceased to live, he commanded the pillage to commence. The negro slaves were employed in bringing out the plunder for distribution. The powder and military stores were reserved for public use in future emergencies.
While the ardent spirits remained, the day and the night alike presented one continued scene of savage triumph and drunken revelry. With horrid yells they spent their orgies in dancing over the mangled bodies of their enemies, which lay strewed in every quarter where they had fallen in the general carnage. Here, unburied, they remained a prey for dogs and hungry vultures. Every vestige of the houses and dwellings in all the settlements were reduced to ashes.
Two soldiers only, who happened to be absent in the woods at the time of the massacre, escaped to bear the melancholy tidings to New Orleans. As they approached the fort and heard the deafening yells of the savages, and saw the columns of smoke and flame ascending from the buildings, they well judged the fate of their countrymen. They concealed themselves until they could procure a boat or canoe to descend the river to New Orleans, where they arrived a few days afterward, and told the sad story of the colony on the St. Catharine.
The same fate was shared by the colony on the Yazoo, near Fort St. Peter, and by those on the Washita, at Sicily Island, and near the present town of Monroe. Dismay and terror were spread over every settlement in the province. New Orleans was filled with mourning and sadness for the fate of friends and countrymen.
The whole number of victims slain in this massacre amounted to more than two hundred men, besides a few women and some negroes, who attempted to defend their masters. Ninety-two women and one hundred and fifty-five children were taken prisoners. Among the victims were Father Poisson, the Jesuit missionary; Laloire, the principal agent of the company; M. Kollys and son, who had purchased M. Hubert's interest, and had just arrived to take possession.”
When the news of this terrible disaster reached New Orleans, the French commenced a war of extermination against the Natchez. The tribe eventually were driven across the Mississippi, and finally scattered and extirpated. The Great Sun and his principal war chiefs, falling into the hands of the French, were shipped to St. Domingo and sold as slaves. Some of the poor prisoners were treated with excessive cruelty, four of the men and two of the women were publicly burned to death at New Orleans. Some Tonica Indians, who had brought down a Natchez woman, whom they had discovered
“The scattered remnants of the tribe sought an asylum among the Chickasaws and other tribes who were hostile to the French. Since that time, the individuality of the Natchez tribe has been swallowed up in the nations with whom they were incorporated. Yet no tribe has left so proud a memorial of their courage, their independent spirit, and their contempt of death in defense of their rights and liberties. The city of Natchez is their monument, standing upon the field of their glory. Such is the brief history of the Natchez Indians, who are now considered extinct. In refinement and intelligence, they were equal, if not superior, to any other tribe north of Mexico. In courage and stratagem they were inferior to none. Their form was noble and commanding; their stature was seldom under six feet, and their persons were straight and athletic. Their countenance indicated more intelligence than is commonly found in savages. The head was compressed from the os frontis to the occiput, so that the forehead appeared high and retreating, while the occiput was compressed almost in a line with the neck and shoulders, This peculiarity, as well as their straight, erect form, is ascribed to the pressure of bandages during infancy. Some of the remaining individuals of the Natchez tribe were in the town of Natchez as late as the year 1782, or more than half a century after the Natchez massacre.”
By the peace of 1763, the Natchez District came into possession of Great Britain, and the next year it was included in West Florida. In 1783, when Florida was ceded to Spain, Natchez came under the dominion of that power. In 1796, by the treaty of Madrid, the Natchez district was ceded to the United States. That treaty defined the boundary of the Floridas to be the thirty-first parallel of north latitude, from the Mississippi eastward to the Chattahoochee River; thence along a line running due east from the mouth of Flint River to the head of St. Mary's River, and thence down the middle of that river to the Atlantic Ocean. This left to Spain, west of the present boundary of Florida, a narrow strip along the Gulf of Mexico, of about 60 miles in width, of the present states of Alabama, Mississippi and Louisiana, to the Mississippi, beside all of the present Florida and a strip of about 25 miles in width of the present southern part of Georgia. Spain was forced to this cession through her political embarrassments, and, from the delay in abandoning the territory, it was evident she had hopes that circumstances would arise which would enable her to retain possession. Foiled in her intrigues to accomplish this end, the Spanish governor general at New Orleans, in January, 1798, ordered the evacuation of the only Spanish forts remaining, Natchez and Nogales. The post at the mouth of Wolf River, near the present site of Memphis, had been evacuated the preceding autumn.
On the 29th of March, 1798, about midnight, the Spanish drums in the fort at Natchez sounded the note of preparation, and before morning the garrison had embarked on the Mississippi, on their way to New Orleans. On the 7th of the following month, the territory surrendered, comprising the present states of Mississippi and Alabama, north of the 31st parallel of north latitude, was erected into the Mississippi Territory, and on the 10th of May, organized a territorial government. Winthrop Sargent, the first territorial governor, and the territorial judges, arrived at Natchez the following August, and proceeded to establish the government. General Wilkinson also arrived with the Federal troops, and established his headquarters
In 1801, Gov. Sargent was succeeded by Wm. C. C. Claiborne as governor of the territory, which at that time had about 12,000 inhabitants, of whom some 2,000 were slaves. The next year the seat of the territorial government was removed to the town of Washington.
On the 10th of March, 1803, Natchez received a city charter from the territorial legislature. It was then a large village, consisting chiefly of small wooden buildings of one story, distributed over an irregular, undulating surface, with but little regard to system or cleanliness. The year previous, the Natchez Gazette, the first newspaper in Mississippi, was established by Col. Andrew Marschalk, who had been an officer in Wayne's army. This paper, under different forms and names, was published by this father of the press in Mississippi for nearly forty years afterward.
Previous to the extension of the American jurisdiction over the Natchez district, the Catholic powers forbade Protestant worship, hence public preaching was unknown. The first Protestant preacher was Tobias Gibson, of the South Carolina Conference, who arrived at Natchez in the summer of 1799, and proceeded to organize societies at Washington, Kingston, on Cole's Creek near Greenville, and on the Bayou Pierre. After his death he was succeeded, in 1806, by Learner Blackburn. Thus was Methodism first introduced into the territory. Rev. Mr. Bowman, also a Methodist, settled in Natchez in 1803. In 1802 came the first Presbyterian missionaries, Messrs. Hall and Montgomery, the first of whom labored several years at Natchez. In 1802 came David Cooper, the first Baptist missionary, to Natchez, and also, about the same time, Rev. Dr. Cloud, of the Episcopal church.
“The Mississippi Territory, for several years afterward, with its wide extent of Indian country, was traversed by only three principal roads, or horse-paths. These were, first, the road from the Cumberland settlements through the Chickasaw and Choctaw nations to the Natchez District; second, from Knoxville through the Cherokee and Creek nations, by way of the Tombigbee, to Natchez; third, that from the Oconee settlements of Georgia, by way of Fort Stoddart, to Natchez and New Orleans. The Chickasaw, or
Nashville Trace
, was frequented more than any other, it being the traveled route for the return journeys of all the Ohio boatmen and traders from New Orleans and Natchez.”
Natchez was the residence of Hon. Sergeant S. Prentiss and Gen. John A. Quitman, each of whom, in their time, were men of national reputation. Mr. Prentiss was born in Portland, Maine, in 1810, and at eighteen years of age settled in Natchez, where he studied law and became the acknowledged head of his profession in this region. As a jury lawyer he had no equal in the southwest, and he was one of the most brilliant of stump orators. In 1838 and 1839, he was a representative in congress. He died in 1850, at the age of 40 years, and is buried near the city. Gen. Quitman was born in Dutchess county, New York, in 1799, was educated for the bar, and when about twenty-one years of age he removed to Natchez. About the year 1840, he was appointed judge of the high court of errors and appeals. He was a major general in the Mexican war, and gained great credit in several battles. In 1850, he was elected governor of Mississippi, and afterward served in congress, where he was at the head of the committee on military affairs. His strict integrity and kindness of heart won him troops of friends among all parties. He was spoken of often as the Democratic candidate for vice president, and was the recognized leader of those favorable to the annexation of Cuba. He died in July, 1858.
Vicksburg,
so named from Mr. Vicks, an extensive landholder, is on the eastern bank of the Mississippi, 41 miles W. from Jackson, and by the river, 513 from New Orleans. The city is principally built on a bluff, broken into several eminences, and elevated about 200 feet above the river. The buildings are situated on and among the shelving declivities of the hills, and the many clusters of dwellings present a picturesque appearance. The city contains the usual public buildings, several academies, five churches, and about 4,500 inhabitants. It was incorporated as a town in 1825, and as a city in 1836. Great quantities of cotton are annually shipped from this place to New Orleans and elsewhere. The surrounding country is remarkably fertile, well adapted to the culture of cotton, grain, etc. The
Walnut Hills
, between two and three miles from the city, rise to an elevation of 500 feet above the river.
View of Vicksburg, from the West bank of the Mississippi.
The view shows the appearance of the central part of Vicksburg, as seen from the Louisiana side of the Mississippi. The Car House of the Jackson R.R. is on the right. The Catholic and some other churches are seen on the hights in the central part.
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the Vicksburg cemetery:
Sacred to the memory of
James Hagan,
M.D., a native of the County of Derry, Ireland. By adoption a citizen of the U. S. He departed this life on the 6th day of June, 1843, aged 38 years, a Martyr to his devotion to the Rights and interests of the people, and by his uncompromising vigilance and zeal in detecting and exposing the usurpations and corruptions of place and power.
* Dr. Hagan was shot by a son of one of the judges of the state courts, for publishing some strictures respecting the conduct of his father. He was tried for murder and acquitted. The monument, was erected at the expense of the Democratic party of Mississippi.
Erected by the citizens of Vicksburg over the remains of
ROBERT L. MOORE
, Lt. 1st Miss. Rifles. Born in Fairfax Co., Va., killed in the battle of Buena Vista, Mexico, 23d Feb., 1847. He rests on a bed of Honor. Lt. Robert L. Moore, as a citizen and soldier, “obtained the highest respect and confidence.” He fell at Buena Vista, 23d Feb., 1847, “in the first engagement and on the most advanced position.” Robert L. Moore, commanding the Vicksburg Volunteers, distinguished himself by his gallantry “in the storming of Monterey,” and died in his country's service, on the 23d of Feb., 1847, at Buena Vista.
Sadly and slowly they laid him down,
From the field of his fame fresh and gory,
They carved not a line, they raised not a stone,
But left him alone in his glory.
A tribute to the memory of the brave soldier and good citizen is now paid by this marble.
Sacred to the memory of
John Jenkins,
who was born at Walnut Hills, Warren Co., Miss., on the 28th day of July, 1815. On the 13th of Dec., 1844, he became Editor of the Vicksburg Sentinel, and on the 15th of Sept., A.D. 1848, he died bravely, as he ever lived, honorably consecrating with the blood of another martyr, a righteous cause, which living he had advocated with unsurpassed ability, fearlessness and fidelity.
* Mr. Jenkins lost his life in a street affray. The person who killed him was recently shot in Nicaragua, his head cut off and stuck upon a polo.
Sacred to the memory of
Rev. John Lane,
born in Virginia, April 8th, A.D. 1789, and died in: Vicksburg, Oct. 10th, A.D. 1855, in the 67th year of his age. He came to the territory of Miss. a Missionary in 1816; and after many years of labor and usefulness, was called to his eternal reward. And I heard a voice from heaven saying unto me, Write, Blessed are the dead who die in the Lord from henceforth: Yea, saith the Spirit, that they may rest from their labors; and their works do follow them. Rev. XIV, 13.
He hath gone to the grave, we no longer behold him,
Nor tread the rough paths of the world by his side.
God gave him, and took him, and will soon restore him,
And death hath no sting, since the Savior hath died.
In memory of
Rev. William Hyer,
M.A., Pastor of the M. E. Church, Vicksburg. Born in Penn., Feb. 14th, 1807, died in Vicksburg, Nov. 3d, 1855.
Soldier of Christ, well done,
The battle's fought, the victory won,
Rest from thy lov'd employ,
Enter thy master's joy!
At the foot of Monroe-street, in Vicksburg, is a monument without name or date, but on its front is carved a representation of a tree, with its trunk broken off at the top, and beside it is a female figure, weeping. This is erected in memory of Dr. Bodley, who lost his life in an attack on the gamblers, who infested this place about the year 1835. At this period, gambling so prevailed in Vicksburg, that honest citizens were continually liable to the insults of the gamblers, while those who played with them were constantly exposed to their villainous frauds. The citizens, at length, became so exasperated with these desperadoes, that they determined to eject them by force. The following account of the outbreak, July 5, 1835, is extracted from a newspaper published at the time:
“Some difficulty arose at the public dinner given in the celebration of the Fourth of July, as too often happens on similar occasions, between Mr. Fisher, who belonged to the volunteer company, and Mr. Francis Cobbler;—from words they came to blows. Mr. C. having drawn a knife on his opponent, the company taking the part of their comrade, seized him, bound him to a tree, and inflicted thirty-two lashes on his person. Not considering this sufficient, they tarred and feathered him, alleging that he was a gambler
The next day.
Three more individuals were taken in the house: the bar-keeper, called Dutch Bill, Mr. Samuel Smith, and Mr. McCall. North, who had previously quitted it and was endeavoring to escape by water, was arrested about a mile from the city and brought back, his hands tied behind him, and obliged to walk with the rest
No cap or other covering was used, and the unfortunate sufferers presented such a horrid appearance that the passers by were moved even to tears
Outline view of the Observatory of the University of Mississippi.
Oxford,
the capital of Lafayette county, is on the line of the Central Railroad, in the northern part of the state. It is considered one of the healthiest places in Mississippi. It has several churches, two seminaries for boys, two for girls, and the University of Mississippi. This institution is about a mile from the village, and the buildings are excellent. Its origin was a grant of 36 sections of land given for this purpose, by congress, in 1819. The funds accruing from the sale of 35½ sections of this land were accordingly thus applied by the legislature, and in 1848, the institution went into operation. In the three departments—academical, law and arts—are about 200 students.
Columbus
, the shire town of Lowndes county, is on the left bank of the Tombigbee, at an elevation of 120 feet above the river, at the ordinary head of steamboat navigation, 150 miles N.E. from Jackson, and, by the river, 480 miles from Mobile. It is regularly laid out. It has a fine court house and other public buildings, six churches, a U. S. land office, extensive warehouses, stores, and about 4,000 inhabitants. Within a few years, in consequence of the sale of the Indian lands and emigration to the surrounding country, it has rapidly increased. The first settlement of the place commenced
Aberdeen
, on the right bank of the Tombigbee, 25 miles above Columbus, is the center and shipping place for a fertile cotton region. It has several literary institutions, six churches, and several manufacturing establishments.
Canton
, 25 miles N. from Jackson, on the line of the railroad, is a beautiful place recently incorporated, having an elegant court house, five churches, and about 2,000 inhabitants.
Yazoo City
is a large shipping point for cotton on the Yazoo River, 50 miles N.N.W. from Jackson. It is in a rich cotton district, and has about 2,500 inhabitants.
Holly Springs
, the capital of Marshall county, is a flourishing village, in a healthy, beautiful country, on the line of the Mississippi Central Railroad, 210 miles north of Jackson. It contains four educational institutions of fine repute, the Chalmers' Institute, and St. Thomas Hall for boys, and the Franklin Female College and Holly Springs Female Institute for girls, and about 4,000 inhabitants.
The
Lauderdale Springs
, sulphur and chalybeate, are in Lauderdale county, in the extreme northwestern corner of the state.
Coopers' Well
, 12 miles west of Jackson, is noted for its mineral qualities.
MISCELLANIES.
THE LYMAN COLONY IN MISSISSIPPI.
Phineas Lyman, a major general in the French Canadian war, was one of the first of the Anglo Saxon race who attempted a settlement in the present limits of Mississippi. He was a native of Durham, Conn., a graduate of Yale College, a distinguished lawyer, and became commander of the Connecticut forces in 1755. He visited England as the agent for an association, called the “Military Adventurers,” whose design was the colonization of a tract of country upon the Mississippi. After sustaining a series of mortifications and delays from those in power, for more than ten years, the grant upon the Mississippi was made, and he returned home in 1773.
In Dec., 1773, Gen. Lyman sailed from New England, in two vessels, for New Orleans, accompanied by the following emigrants: Daniel and Roswell Magguet and Capt. Ladley, of Hartford; Thomas and James Lyman, of Durham; Hugh White, Capt. Ellsworth, Ira Whitmore, and —— Sage, of Middletown; Thaddeus and Phineas Lyman, James Harman and family —— Moses, Isaac Sheldon, Roger Harmon, —— Hanks, Elnathan Smith, and eight slaves, from Suffield; Thomas Comstock, —— Weed, of New Hartford; Capt. Silas Crape, Robert Patrick, Ashbel Bowen, John Newcomb, and James Dean, of Lebanon; Abram Knapp, and Capt. Matthew Phelps, of Norfolk; Giles and Nathaniel Hull, James Stoddart, and Thaddeus Bradley, of Salisbury; Maj. Easley, of Weathersfield; John Fisk, and Elisha Hale, Wallingford, Timothy and David Hotchkiss Waterbury; John Hyde, William and Jonathan Lyon, and William Davis, of Stratford or Derby; —— Alcott of Windsor. All these were from Connecticut. The following, were from Massachusetts: Moses Drake, Ruggles Winchel, and Benjamin Barber, of Westfield; Seth Miller, Elisha and Joseph Flowers, William Hurlbut, and Elisha Leonard, with a number of slaves, of Springfield
Gen. Lyman and his company arrived at New Orleans in 1774, and after a laborious passage up the Mississippi, reached the Big Black River, in the “Natchez Country,” as it was called. Here he settled his grant, but was too old to cultivate it. In a short time he and his son died. Capt. Phelps returned to Connecticut,
After a voyage of three months, they reached New Orleans on the 1st of August. Here, having obtained boats, they proceeded up the Mississippi. Capt. Phelps and all his children becoming prostrated by disease, his boat was tied to the willows, while the others continued the Voyage. The boat containing the Lymans and the Rev. Mr. Smith reached Natchez. Mr. Smith and Maj. Dwight died in a short time. Those of the party who were left arrived at the Big Black and the improvements made by Gen. Lyman. Here Madame Lyman soon died, and was buried by the side of her husband. Capt. Phelps remained in his boat, which was anchored fifteen miles above Point Coupee, where his son and daughter died and he was compelled to bury them with his own hands: his wife soon after died, and he was left alone with two little children. These were subsequently drowned as he came in sight of the mouth of the Big Black River.
The remaining members of the Lyman family continued in the country until it was invaded by the Spaniards in 1781-82. With a number of their friends, they planted themselves in the neighborhood of Natchez. Being British subjects, and having everything to fear from the Spaniards, they determined to flee through the wilderness to Savannah, the nearest British post. The mother country and her colonies being at war, rendered a direct course to Savannah too perilous to be hazarded. To avoid danger they were compelled to take a very circuitous route, wandering, according to their reckoning, nearly fourteen hundred miles. Their journeyings occupied one hundred and forty-nine days.
The caravan was numerous, including men, women and children, with some at the breast. They were mounted on horseback, but the ruggedness of the ground obliged such as were able to walk, to make a great part of their way on foot. They were in constant apprehensions from hostile Indians. Often they suffered from extreme thirst and hunger. The first Indian town they ventured to approach was on the “Hickory ground”—the site of Wotumpka, Ala. Supposing the company were whigs, and enemies to King George, their “Great Father,” the Creeks appear to have determined to put them to death. But, by the cunning and address of Paro, the black servant of McGillivray, the Creek chief, who understood the English language, they escaped. The Indians told Paro that, if they were Englishmen, “they could
make the paper talk,” i. e.
they must have kept a journal. Paro took the hint, and as they had kept none, he told them any piece of paper that had writing upon it would serve the purpose. An old letter was produced, from which one of the company pretended to read the adventures of the company since they left Natchez. This was interpreted to the Indians by Paro, sentence by sentence. As the recital went on, their countenances began to relax, and before the reading was finished, their ferocity was succeeded by friendship, and all the wants of the wanderers kindly supplied.
THE BANDIT MASON.
“Among the incidents in the early history of the Mississippi Territory was the violent death of the notorious robber Mason. This fearless bandit had become the terror of the routes from New Orleans and Natchez through the Indian nations. After the organization of the territorial government, and the opening of” roads through the wilderness to Tennessee, the return of traders, supercargoes, and boatmen to the northern settlements, with the proceeds of their voyage, was on foot and on horseback, in parties for mutual protection, through the Indian nations; and often rich treasures of specie were packed on mules and horses over
Long accustomed to robbery and murder upon the Lower Ohio, during the Spanish dominion on the Mississippi, and pressed by the rapid approach of the American population, he deserted the ‘Cave in the Rock,’ on the Ohio, and began to infest the great Natchez Trace, where the rich proceeds of the river trade were the tempting prize, and where he soon become the terror of every peaceful traveler through the wilderness. Associated with him were his two sons and a few other desperate miscreants; and the name of Mason and his band was known and dreaded from the morasses of the southern frontier to the silent shades of the Tennessee River. The outrages of Mason became more frequent and sanguinary. One day found him marauding on the banks of the Pearl, against the life and fortune of the trader; and before pursuit was organized, the hunter, attracted by the descending sweep of the solitary vulture, learned the story of another robbery and murder on the remote shores of the Mississippi. Their depredations became at last so frequent and daring, that the people of the territory were driven to adopt measures for their apprehension. But such was the knowledge of the wilderness possessed by the wily bandit, and such his untiring vigilance and activity, that for a time he baffled every attempt for his capture.
Treachery at last, however, effected what stratagem, enterprise and courage had in vain attempted. A citizen of great respectability, passing with his sons through the wilderness, was plundered by the bandits. Their lives were, however, spared, and the returned to the settlement. Public feeling was now excited, and the governor of the territory found it necessary to act. Governor Claiborne accordingly offered a liberal reward for the robber Mason, dead or alive! The proclamation was widely distributed, and a copy of it reached Mason himself, who indulged in much merriment on the occasion. Two of his band, however, tempted by the large reward, concerted a plan by which they might obtain it. An opportunity soon occurred; and while Mason, in company with the two conspirators, was counting out some ill-gotten plunder, a tomahawk was buried in his brain. His head was severed from his body and borne in triumph to Washington, then the seat of the territorial government.
The head of Mason was recognized by many, and identified by all who read the proclamation, as the head entirely corresponded with the description given of certain scars and peculiar marks. Some delay, however, occurred in paying over the reward, owing to the slender state of the treasury. Meantime, a great assemblage from all the adjacent country had taken place, to view the grim and ghastly head of the robber chief. They were not less inspired with curiosity to see and converse with the individual whose prowess had delivered the country of so great a scourge. Among those spectators were the two young men, who, unfortunately for these traitors, recognized them as companions of Mason in the robbery of their father.
It is unnecessary to say that treachery met its just reward, and that justice, was also satisfied. The reward was not only withheld, but the robbers were imprisoned, and, on the full evidence of their guilt, condemned and executed at Greenville, Jefferson county.
The band of Mason, being thus deprived of their leader and two of his most efficient men, dispersed and fled the country. Thus terminated the terrors which had infested the route through the Indian nations, known to travelers as the ‘Natchez and Nashville Trace.’”
COTTON.
Cotton, only within the memory of man, has assumed much importance in the agriculture and commerce of the world. With our fathers, cotton cloth was almost entirely unknown, linen being universally worn. This change has been
* “Ell Whitney, the great benefactor of the south, in the invention of the cotton gin, was born in Massachusetts, and was early distinguished for his mechanical genius. After graduating at Yale College, he visited Georgia in the prospect of securing a situation of private tutor. He was disappointed in the hope, and was received, almost in charity, under the benevolent roof of Mrs. Green, the widow of General Nathaniel Green, of the Revolution. A party of gentlemen, conversing incidentally on the subject, were lamenting that there was no means of separating the seed from the cotton; and remarked, that until ingenuity could devise some machine to effect the purpose, it was vain to think of raising cotton to export “Gentlemen,” said Mrs. Green, “apply to my young friend, Mr Whitney, he can make anything.” When the matter was proposed to Whitney, he replied that he had never seen cotton or cotton seed in his life. The subject was thus, however, suggested to his mind, and with tools most inadequate, and much of the materials made by himself, in the course of a few months, he perfected a machine which answered every desired purpose. Thus, by the force of intuitive genius, one man called into practical being the staple of an entire country, revolutionized its affairs, and added millions to its wealth. When the fact of such a discovery was known, the populace was so determined to possess the machine, that they broke open his house and seized it. Before Whitney was able to make his model and procure his patent, many machines were already in operation. This violent procedure robbed the inventor of much of the benefit of his discovery. It was emphatically stated by Whitney, in a subsequent application to congress for remuneration, “that his invention had been the source of opulence to thousands of the citizens of the United States, and that as a labor-saving machine, it would enable one man to perform the work of one thousand men.”
Harvesting Cotton.
In 1784, an American vessel arrived at Liverpool, having on board, for part of her cargo,
eight bags
of cotton, which were seized by the officers of customs under the conviction that they could not be the growth of America, although the plant is natural to the soil. Now cotton is our great article of export, amounting in value, in 1859, to $161,000,000, and in total product to about $250,000,000!! The demand is increasing in a greater ratio than we can supply; such
The earliest seat of the cotton manufacture known to us was Hindostan, where it continues to be carried on by hand labor. America and Europe are now pouring back upon Asia her original manufacture, and underselling her in her own markets. In the manufacture of no one article has the genius of invention been more called into exercise. It has not only built up our own Lowell and other thriving towns, but large cities in other lands, as Liverpool, Manchester, Glasgow, Paisley, etc. It is estimated to give employment to over a million of persons, and an amount of capital of millions upon millions of dollars.
“Cotton goods, to a great extent, may be seen freighting every vessel, from Christian nations, that traverses the globe; and filling the warehouses and shelves of the merchants, over two thirds of the world. By the industry, skill, and enterprise employed in the manufacture of cotton, mankind are better clothed; their comfort better promoted; general industry more highly stimulated; commerce more widely extended; and civilization more rapidly advanced than in any preceding age. When the statistics on the subject are examined, it appears that nearly all the cotton consumed in the Christian world, is the product of the slavelabor of the United States.” The London Economist says: “The lives of nearly two millions of our countrymen are dependent upon the cotton crops of America; their destiny may be said, without any kind of hyperbole, to hang upon a thread. Should any dire calamity befall the land of cotton, a thousand of our merchant ships would rot idly in dock; ten thousand mills must stop their busy looms; two hundred thousand mouths would starve, for lack of food.”
There appears to be no limits to the varieties of cotton. The varieties familiar to our southern states, and known to commerce, are divided into “short” and “long staple.” The short staple, or upland cotton, was originally procured from the West Indies, and is familiar to every household in the form of sheetings and shirtings. The long staple, or
Sea Island cotton
, is supposed to have originated in Persia. It is the finest cotton in the world, commanding four or five times the price of the other, and is used only for the finest fabrics. Combined with silk it often deceives the most practiced eye to discover the mixture.
An immense area of the Union is adapted to the cultivation of cotton, including all the slave states excepting the northern tier. What are particularly denominated the cotton states, are South Carolina, Georgia, and those on the Gulf of Mexico. These include great varieties of scenery, and often the cotton plantations are rendered picturesque by the combinations of hill and dale. Preparations for planting the cotton begin in January, by collecting the old stalks of the previous season in piles, and destroying them by fire. The planting takes place about the last of March, two or three bushels of seed being used to the acre. In about a week the young plants are seen making their way above ground in lines of solid masses. “The field hand, however, will single one delicate shoot from the surrounding multitude, and with his rude hoe he will trim away the remainder with all the boldness of touch of a master; leaving the incipient stalk unharmed and alone in its glory; and at nightfall you can look along the extending rows, and find the plants correct in line, and of the required distance of separation from each other. Through the month of July the crop is worked over the last time, with the plow and the hoe, and makes rapid advances to perfection.
The “cotton bloom,” under the matured sun of July, begins to make its appearance. The announcement of the “first blossom” of the neighborhood is a matter of general interest. It should, perhaps, be here remarked, that the color of cotton in its perfection is precisely that of the blossom—a beautiful light, but warm cream color. In buying cotton cloth, the “bleached” and “unbleached” are perceptibly different qualities to the most casual observer; but the dark hues and harsh look of the “unbleached domestic” comes from the handling of the artisan and the soot of machinery. If cotton, pure as it looks in the field, could be wrought into fabrics, they would have a brilliancy and beauty never yet accorded to any other material in its natural or artificial state.
The cotton blossom is exceedingly delicate in its organization. It is, if in perfection, as we have stated, of a beautiful cream color. It unfolds in the night, remains in its glory through the morn—at meridian it has begun to decay. The day following its birth it has
53
The cotton plant, like the orange, has often on one stalk every possible growth; and often, on the same limb, may sometimes be seen the first opened blossom, and the bolls, from their first development as “forms,” through every size, until they have burst open, and scattered their rich contents to the ripening winds.
The appearance of a well cultivated cotton field, if it has escaped the ravages of insects and the destruction of the elements, is of singular beauty. Although it may be a mile in extent, still it is carefully wrought as is tile mold of the limited garden of the coldest climate. The cotton leaf is of a delicate green, large and luxuriant; the stalk indicates rapid growth, yet it has a healthy and firm look. Viewed from a distance, the perfecting plant has a warm and glowing expression. The size of the cotton plant depends upon the accident of climate and soil. The cotton of Tennessee bears very little resemblance to the luxuriant growth of Mississippi, Alabama and Georgia; but even in these favored states the cotton plant is not every where the same, for in the rich bottom lands it grows to a commanding size, while it the more barren regions it is alt humble shrub. In the rich alluvium of the Mississippi, the cotton will tower beyond the reach of the tallest “picker,” and a single plant will contain hundreds of perfect bolls.”
The season for picking continues, without intermission, from the last of July to the Christmas holidays, and the average daily work of a hand is about 275 pounds. The cotton is carried in baskets by the slaves, at the close of the day, to the gin. A gin stand impelled by mules, will clean about 1800 pounds per day. On large plantations, steam engines are often used to work the gins. T. B. Thorpe, of Louisiana, in his article in Harpers' Magazine, on “Cotton and its cultivation,” from which this is mainly derived, says: “The average of a bale of ginned cotton to every cultivated acre is set down by the most experienced planters as a very liberal reward for their labor. Ten acres of cotton and five acres of corn are considered the work of each “field hand;” yet five or six bales of cotton, of four hundred and fifty pounds, to the hand, would greatly exceed the average production, for it will be found, on examination, that an average of two acres are cultivated in order to produce one bale.
The cultivation of the soil being the earliest as well as the noblest of pursuits, it seems to create a manliness and patriotism in those who follow it. The southern planter presents the agriculturalist in the most dignified form. He directs, he plows, he sows, he reaps, and yet he does nothing of mere physical labor. He has all the advantages that come from a familiarity with tile open fields, combined with all the accomplishments which flow from elegant leisure. Surrounded with an overabundance of the necessaries of life, and, from his isolated position, ever glad to see the face of a friend or stranger, he has become proverbial throughout the world for his accomplished manners and unbounded hospitality.
In the cotton-packing season, when the lassitude of summer has given way to the invigorating influences of all early frost,' the planter and his guests frequently indulge in the manly sport of ‘following the hounds.’ Spirited horses and excellent fire-arms are in abundance, and the plantation-house presents a scene of rare excitement at the moment of the ‘start for the hunt.’ The neighing of horses, the yelping of hounds, the boisterous laughter of negroes, mingle together in strange but enlivening confusion.
The ‘cotton-picking season’ is generally brought to a close by the middle of December. The crop ready for shipment, the negroes are permitted to relax from their labors, and are in fine spirits, because ‘the work of the year is finished.’ The Christmas holidays are strictly kept, and is the great gala season of the negro. It may be likened to the saturnailia of the Romans, modified by decency and decorum. The wagons and carts are at their service to carry their corn, fodder, chickens, and eggs to the neighboring city or village. ‘the return load’ being made up of finery and luxuries for the feasts of the holidays. Invitations for exchange of visits are circulated among the negroes of different plantations; fiddlers are in demand; and dancing and merriment characterize the hours of night and day. The festivities of Christmas commence at the break of day. Just as the light appears they form themselves into a procession, and preceded by a fiddle and a variety of rude instruments, above all of which is to be heard boisterous singing and laughing, they march round the house, crying at intervals,
‘Wake up! wake up! Christmas has come!
’“
Arms Of Louisiana.
Motto
—Union and Confidence.
The
territory of Louisiana was first traversed by the Spaniards under
De Soto
, who died at the mouth of Red River, in May, 1542. This celebrated adventurer, finding that the hour of death was come, appointed a successor, and with his dying breath, exhorted his desponding followers to
“union and confidence,”
words late: emblazoned on the arms of Louisiana De Soto, it is said, expended 100,000 ducats in this expedition, and thus like the fabled
pelican
of old, gave his own blood for the nourishment of his brood of followers.
In 1682, La Salle, a French naval officer, discovered the three passages by which the Mississippi dicharges its waters into the Gulf. La Salle, having ascended the river to a dry spot, above inundation, erected a column with the arms of France affixed, and took possession of the country: “in the name of the Most High, mighty, invincible, and victorious Prince, Louis the Great, by the grace of God, King of France and Navarre, fourteenth of that name.” After the
Te Deum
was chanted, a salute of fire-arms, and cries of
vive le roi
, La Salle declared that his majesty, as eldest son of the church, would annex no country to his crown, without making it his chief care to establish the Christian religion therein: its symbol must now be planted. Accordingly a cross was erected, before which religious services were performed. The country was named
Louisiana
, in honor of the French king.
La Salle attempted a settlement, but it failed. In 1699, a more successful attempt was made by Iberville and others. He entered the mouth of the Mississippi, and after making considerable explorations, he returned to the Bay of Biloxi, where he erected a fort, which he left in charge of his brothers,
Souvolle
and
Bienville
, and then returned to France. In 1712, the King of France granted a charter to M. Crozat, which covered the whole province, with the exclusive privilege of trade, etc., for twenty years. This grant was
About the year 1717,
John Law
, a Scotchman, but settled in Paris as a financier, obtained a charter for a bank. With this was connected a great commercial company, to whom was granted the extensive territory of Louisiana, the mines of which, near the Mississippi, would, it was represented, reimburse any investment. The Royal Bank stock went up to
six hundred
times its par value, and dividends were rendered at 200 per cent. This banking and stock jobbing bubble soon burst, involving vast numbers of persons in every rank of life in ruin, and the
“Mississippi Scheme
' was a by-word for a long period. Despairing of finding gold, and having but poor success in colonizing their lands, this “Western Company” gave up their charter in 1732, which the king accepted, and declared the commerce of Louisiana free.
In 1760, war broke out between Great Britain and France. Canada fell into the hands of the English, and rather than submit to their government, many of the inhabitants sought a home in southern climes, fixing themselves on the Acadian coast of Louisiana, or, taking their course westward of the river, formed the settlements of Attakapas, Opelousas, and Avoyelles. In 1762, France ceded the territory of Louisiana west of the Mississippi, with New Orleans, to Spain, and soon afterward abandoned her possessions eastward to Great Britain. When the news of the transfer of Louisiana fell upon the French inhabitants, they were filled with mourning. O'Reilly, with a Spanish military force, arrived and landed in New Orleans, and took formal possession of the country in the name of his king. This commander soon proved himself a tyrant. Some of the first citizens were arrested, thrown into prison, declared guilty of treason, and tried under the statute of Alphonso, making it death to incite insurrection against the king. Sentence and execution followed. “Posterity,” says Martin, the historian, “will doom this act to public execration.”
The laws of Spain were gradually extended over Louisiana. During the American Revolution, Galvez, governor of Louisiana, captured the British garrison at Baton Rouge. The treaties between Great Britain, France and Spain and the United States, concluded in 1783, opened the navigation of the Mississippi, and ceded the Floridas to Spain. These treaties, however, were followed by embarrassing disputes, particularly respecting the navigation of that part of the Mississippi which passed through their territories. Any attempt to navigate the river, to introduce merchandise into New Orleans, was resisted by the authorities, and the property seized. About the year 1787, Gen. Wilkinson conceived the design of making a settlement of American families in Louisiana, for which he expected to receive commercial favors from the Spaniards.
In 1800, Spain reconveyed the province of Louisiana to France. Bonaparte, in 1803, sold the territory to the United States, for fifteen millions of dollars. On the 20th of December, 1803, “the American flag waved over the city Of New Orleans—the same day having witnessed the descent of the Spanish ensign, and the elevation of the tri-color, the latter only having been raised to be replaced by the stars and stripes. Gov. Claiborne, on taking the chair of authority, organized a judiciary. The act of Congress, in 1804, established a territorial government. The conflicting
Louisiana extends from 29° to 33° N. latitude, and from 88° 40′ to 94° 25′ W. longitude; bounded N. by Arkansas and Mississippi, E. by Mississippi, W. by Texas, and S. by the Gulf of Mexico. Its length is 250 miles, its breadth on the Gulf of Mexico 300 miles, and at its northern boundary is 180, having an area computed at 46,431 square miles. The whole surface of the state consists mostly of low grounds, with some hilly ranges in the western part. The southern portion of the state, occupying about one fourth part of its territory is seldom elevated more than ten feet above the sea, and is annually inundated by the spring floods. This section is an alluvial deposit from the waters of the Mississippi and its branches. The territory between the Atchafalaya on the west, and the Iberville, etc., on the east, is called the
Delta
of the Mississippi, from its resemblance to the Greek letter of that name.
The immense alluvial soil of Mississippi may be arranged into four classes —the first, about two thirds of the whole, has a heavy growth of timber, with an almost impenetrable undergrowth of canes, etc., and a soil of the richest fertility. The second class consists of cypress swamps; these are basins or depressions of the surface from which there is no outlet, and the waters which they receive from the annual floods remain until they are carried off by evaporation; the third class consists of the sea marsh, a belt of land partially covered by the common tides, and generally without timber; the fourth class consists of small bodies of prairie land.
The richest tract in the state is a narrow belt, called
“the coast,”
lying along the Mississippi, on both sides, extending from 150 miles above to 140 below New Orleans, and one to two miles wide. This belt was formed from the annual deposits of the river, and is a little above the ordinary level of the floods. To prevent the river from inundating the valuable tracts in the rear, an artificial embankment has been built, six or eight feet high, called the
Levee
, which is sufficiently broad for a highway. The whole of this tract is under cultivation, and large quantities of sugar are annually produced. Below the mouth of Red River, the Mississippi separates into several branches or outlets, which, diverging from each other, slowly wend their way into the Gulf of Mexico, and divide the southwestern portion of the state into islands. The climate in the vicinity of New Orleans is similar to that of Charleston, S. C., although two degrees further south. The great agricultural productions of the state are sugar, indian corn, rice and cotton. Louisiana is divided into two districts, the eastern and western; the eastern contains 21, the western 26 parishes. Improved lands, 1,590,025 acres; unimproved, 3,939,018. Population, in 1810,76,556; in 1820, 153,407; in 1850, 511,974; in 1860,666,431, of whom 312,186 were slaves.
New Orleans,
the great commercial emporium of the south and west, and the greatest cotton mart on the globe, is situated on the E. or left bank of the Mississippi, 105 miles above its mouth, 1,438 S.W. from Washington, 1,663 from N. York, 2,025 miles from Pittsburgh,
via
Ohio and Mississippi
South-Eastern view of jackson Square, New Orleans.
The Cathedral, with its spires, appears in the central part, the Statue of Gen. Jackson within the square in front. The Court buildings are on either side.
Rivers, and 2,000 from St. Anthony's Falls, in Lat. 29° 57′ 30″ N., Lon. 90° W. from Greenwich. The city is built around the river, which here forms a curve somewhat in the form of a crescent, from which circumstance it is often called the
“Crescent City.
” The Mississippi, opposite New Orleans, is half a mile wide, and 100 to 160 feet deep, and continues this depth to near the Gulf, where there are bars having only 13 to 16 feet of water. The location is on a piece of land which inclines gently from the river to the marshy grounds in the rear. At high water it is from three to nine feet below the
View on the Levee at New Orleans.
levee
, fifteen feet wide and six feet high, has been raised, extending 120 miles above, and 43 below the city to Fort Plaquemine.
View in View Orleans.
The engraving is a representation in St. Charles-street, showing the widely known St. Charles Hotel, with the adjacent buildings.
The New Orleans levee is one continuous landing-place, or quay, four miles in extent, and of an average width of 100 feet. It is 15 feet above low water mark, and six feet above the level of the city, to which it is graduated by an easy descent. During the business season, from November to July, the river in front of the levee is crowded with vessels, of all sizes and from all quarters of the world, with hundreds of large and splendid steamboats, barges, flat-boats, etc. The levee presents a most busy and animated prospect. Here are seen piles of cotton bales, vast numbers of barrels of pork, flour, and liquors of various kinds, bales of foreign and domestic manufactures, hogsheads.of sugar, crates of ware, etc., draymen with their carts, buyers, sellers, laborers, etc. Valuable products from the head waters or the Missouri, 3,000 miles distant, center here. The Illinois, the Ohio, the Arkansas and Red Rivers, with the Mississippi, are all tributaries to this commercial depot. Upward of
two hundred millions
of dollars worth of
The change in the course of the river at New Orleans, causes vast alluvial deposits, particularly at that point where the commerce of the city chiefly centers. Here it has been found necessary to erect quays, extending from 50 to 100 feet in the river. In consequence of the new formations, the levee has been widened, and an additional row of warehouses erected between the city and the river. The city is built along the river over seven miles, and extends toward Lake Ponchartrain, nearly four miles from the river. The houses are mostly of brick, and many of the residences in the suburbs are ornamented with orange trees and gardens. The city was originally laid out by the French, in an oblong rectangular shape, 1,320 yards in length, and 700 yards in breadth. In 1836, New Orleans was divided into three municipalities, but in 1852, this division was abrogated, and the faubourgs, with the village of La Fayette, are now incorporated under one city government. Algiers, which may be regarded as one of the suburbs, is a flourishing village on the opposite side of the river, and has several shipyards and extensive manufacturing establishments. The inhabitants of New Orleans are nearly equally composed of Americans, Creoles, and Spaniards. Population, in 1850, 116,375; in 1860, 170,766.
Jackson Square, with its beautiful statuary, trees, shrubbery, etc., in front of the Cathedral, is one of the most attractive places in the city. Formerly it was known as
Place d'Arms
, and in early days was used for military purposes. In 1850 it was changed to its present name, since which time it has been tastefully laid out in walks, and ornamented with the rarest plants and flowers of the south. In the center of the square is a fine statue of Jackson, the hero of New Orleans, on horseback. In either corner of the square is a statue representing the seasons. The Catholic Cathedral, fronting the square, was erected in 1792. The style of its architecture is duplex—the first story front is of the Doric order, and the second, the Tuscan. The belfry was erected in 1850. The founder, Don Andre, built and dedicated this imposing structure to the church, on condition that masses be offered every Saturday evening at sunset for the repose of his soul.
Lafayette Square
, adorned with shade trees, is now used as a military parade ground, and has several fine public edifices around it—the
Odd Fellows' Hall
fronts the west side of the square. It is a noble building, erected at a cost of $200,000. The
City Hall
, on the opposite side of the square, is a superb edifice of the Grecian Ionic order, after the Erectheum at Athens: it is built of white marble, the basement being of granite. The finest portion of the building is the portico, with its massive marble columns. The pediment contains a groupe in marble, representing Justice supported by Liberty and Commerce. It was commenced in 1847, and completed in 1850, at an expense of about $300,000. Since the consolidation of the city, it has been known as the City Hall. The
First Presbyterian Church
, on the south side of the square, is an architectural ornament to the city of the first order. It is of Gothic style, and the largest building of the kind in the city, being nearly 100 feet in breadth and 194 in depth, having a steeple 210 feet high. It occupies the site of the old church, which was destroyed by fire, Oct. 30, 1854. The following inscription is within the vestibule:
In memory of
Rev. Sylvester Larned,
First Pastor of the Presbyterian Church in this City, who died of the yellow fever, Aug. 31, 1820; aged 24 years. His last sermon was
Northern View of Lafayette Square, New Orleans.
The first Presbyterian Church is seen in the central part, on the south side of the Square. Part of the Odd Fellows' Hall and Catholic Church on the left, and the front of the City Hall on the extreme right.
Situation of New Orleans.
The outline shows the general appearance of New Orleans, as seen from the south, on the east bank of the Mississippi. The localities of Algiers, MacDonough, etc., appear on the left; part of the Lovee in front.
There are about 50 churches in New Orleans, about one third of which are Catholic. The
Charity Hospital
is a large building, three stories high and 290 feet in length. It was instituted in 1832, and the citizen and stranger alike find admission and receive the benefits of this institution during sickness. Its average yearly admissions have been latterly about 11,000, and its discharges about 9,000. Its disbursements are about $100,000. The
University of Louisiana
was founded in 1849. The medical department has 8 professors, the academic 4, and the law 4. The U. S. Marine Hospital is at MacDonough, on the opposite side of the river. The hotels and theaters of New Orleans, are among the most splendid buildings in the city. St. Charles
The New Orleans Custom House is stated to be “the largest structure of the kind under one roof in the world.” The corner stone was laid by Henry Clay, in 1849. The building covers a whole square, an area of two acres. The whole cost, when completed, it is supposed will amount to nearly four millions of dollars.
The statue of Henry Clay is one of the objects of interest in New Orleans. It is in bronze, after the design of Joel T. Hart. It is about twelve feet in hight, and is mounted on a lofty pedestal. Mr. Clay is represented in the act of addressing the senate, the left hand resting on the pedestal, the right gracefully extended. The corner stone was laid on the 12th of April, 1856, and on the 12th of April, 1860, it was inaugurated in the presence of one of the largest concourses of people ever assembled in the city. It stands in the heart of the metropolis, overlooking the Mississippi. New Orleans was a place of favorite resort to Mr. Clay, and his memory is endeared to her citizens by many valued recollections of his social life among them.
The history of New Orleans, in its earlier epochs, embraces that of the whole French settlements in lower Louisiana. It received its name from the Duke of Orleans, Regent of France.
“In many respects New Orleans is regarded as the most remarkable and attractive city of the United States, especially by those foreigners who are partial to the life of Southern Europe. Its almost tropical climate, its semi-French tone, its luxuries and pleasures, and its being, so to speak, the headquarters of the southwestern states, whose inhabitants are famed for their frank, courteous, and hospitable manners, all combine to render New Orleans to the one who perfectly appreciates it a place of most delightful memories and associations. Previous to the beginning of the present century, the history of New Orleans was intimately connected with that of France and Spain. It was settled by the French in 1717, and owed its existence to the famous, and until recently but imperfectly understood genius, John Law. The settlement of the country did not succeed, however, under the Mississippi scheme, though immense sums were expended upon it, and many colonists sent there. All possible protection and privilege failed to produce remunerative returns, principally because gold and silver were more sought for than crops. In 1727, New Orleans received a great number of Jesuit priests and Ursuline nuns, who remained there until 1764. It was in 1769 that the first cases of yellow fever occurred—introduced, it is said, by a slaver. Its commerce with the United States began in 1777, and during the following year it was nearly destroyed by a vast conflagration. The population of New Orleans in 1785 amounted to four thousand seven hundred; in 1853 it was one hundred and forty-five thousand four hundred and forty-nine, of whom twenty-nine thousand one hundred and seventy-four were either slaves or 'f.p.c.,' 'free people of color.' In 1762, by secret treaty, Louisiana was conveyed to Spain. Several years elapsed before the occupation took place. The new Spanish
government was odious to the French settlers, and so aggravating to their American neighbors that our general government had at one time to use strenuous exertions to prevent a regular war between the western people and the Spaniards. New Orleans was reconveyed to the French in 1800, and included in our purchase of Louisiana. Napoleon saw that the loss of the country was inevitable, and wisely sold it to the United States. Never was a monarch so willing to sell out, or a government so anxious to buy as ours, the only difficulty was the price. It was finally transferred for the valuable consideration of eighty millions of livres, deducting twenty millions for spoliations of our merchant marine. In 1804 New Orleans was incorporated as a city; in 1805 it became a port of entry. From the period of its passing under 'American' government,
Battle Field of Plaine Chalmette, or New Orleans.
The memorable
battle of New Orleans
was fought about four miles below the city, at a spot washed by the Mississippi, and surrounded by cypress swamps and cane-brakes. The following account is from Perkins' History of the War:
“On his arrival in the city, General Jackson, in conjunction with Judge Hall, and many influential persons of the city, on the 16th of December, issued an order declaring the city and environs of New Orleans to be under strict martial law. Every individual entering the city was required to report himself to the adjutant-general, and no person by land or water was suffered to leave the city without a passport. The street lamps were ordered to be extinguished at nine o clock; after which any persons found in the streets, or from their homes without permission in writing, and not having the countersign, were ordered to be apprehended as spies. This measure at once converted the whole city into a camp, and subjected the persons and property of the citizens to the will of the commanding general. Writs of habeas corpus, and all other civil process by means of which the lives and properties of the people are protected, were for the time suspended. Such was the alarm and confusion of the moment, that few inquiries were made whence the commanding general of a military station derived such powers, to be exercised over the inhabitants of the adjacent country, in nowise connected with his camp. Although the brilliant success which afterward attended the operations of General Jackson seemed to justify the measure, yet the people saw in it a precedent, which though it might have saved New Orleans, might at some future period extinguish their liberties. A most rigid police was now instituted. Spies and traitors, with which, the governor complained, the city abounded, and who had been industriously employed in seducing the French and Spanish inhabitants from their allegiance, now fled; and the remaining citizens cordially co-operated with the general in the means of defense. Fort St. Philips, which guarded the passage of the river at the Detour la Plaquemine, was strengthened and
placed under the command of Major Overton, an able and skillful engineer. A site was selected for works of defense, four miles below the city, where its destinies were ultimately to be determined. The right rested on the river, and the left was flanked by an impenetrable cypress swamp, which extended eastward to Lake Ponchartrain, and westward to within a mile of the river. Between the swamp and the river was a large ditch or artificial bayou which had been made for agricultural objects, but which now served an important military purpose. On the northern bank of this ditch, the entrenchments were thrown up.
Landing of the British.
—In the meantime the British were actively employed in making preparations for the attack; believing the pass from Lake Borgne to Lake Pontchartrain to be defended according to General Wilkinson's plan, by the fortress of Petit Coquille, they determined to land from Lake Borgne by the Bayou Bienvenue. For this purpose they concentrated their forces on Ship Island, eighty miles distant from the contemplated place of landing. The depth of water in Lake Borgne was such that this distance could be traversed only by boats and small craft, and must necessarily be passed several times in order to bring up the whole armament. The first object of the British general, was to clear the lake of the American gun-boats; and for this purpose, forty British launches were sent in pursuit of them, and, after a desperate resistance, captured and destroyed the whole American flotilla, stationed on Lakes Borgne and Pontchartrain, for the defense of New Orleans, consisting of five gun-boats and a small sloop and schooner. By this success, they obtained the undisturbed possession of the lake; and on the 22d of December, proceeded from their rendezvous on Ship Island, with all their boats and small craft capable of navigating the lake, to the Bayou of Bienvenue; and having surprised and captured the videttes at the mouth of the bayou, the first division accomplished their landing unobserved. Major General Villiere, of the New Orleans militia, living on the bayou, to whom the important service of making the first attack, and giving notice of the enemy's approach was intrusted, found them on his plantation, nine miles below the city, without any previous knowledge of their approach.
Skirmishes on the 23d.
—Notice was immediately given to General Jackson, who came out and attacked them on the evening of the 23d. In this affair the British sustained a loss, in killed, wounded and missing, of five hundred. The British entrenched themselves at the Bieuvenue plantation, four miles from the American camp, making the plantation house, in the rear of their works, their head-quarters. General Jackson established his head-quarters at M'Carty's plantation, on the bank of the river, and in full view of the British encampment. Two armed schooners, the Caroline and Louisiana, constituting all the American naval force on the river, dropped down from the city, anchored opposite the British encampment, and opened a brisk fire upon their lines with considerable effect. On the 27th, the Caroline, Captain Henly, got becalmed within reach of the British batteries, and was set fire to and destroyed by their hot shot: the other succeeded in getting out of their reach. On the 28th, the British advanced within half a mile of the American lines, and opened a fire of shells and rockets; but were driven back by the artillery with considerable loss. On the night of the 31st of December, the enemy again advanced to within six hundred yards of General Jackson's position, and erected three batteries, mounting fifteen guns, and at eight o'clock in the morning a opened a heavy fire. In the course of the day, under cover of these batteries, three unsuccessful attempts were made to storm the American works. By four in the afternoon, all their batteries were silenced, and in the following night they returned to their former position. On the 4th of January, General Adair arrived with four thousand Kentucky militia, principally without arms. The muskets and munitions of war destined for the supply of this corps, were provided at Pittsburgh, and did not leave that place until the 25th
of December; passed Louisville the 6th of January, and arrived at New Orleans, several days after the battle of
At day-light on the morning of the 8th, the main body of the British under their commander-in-chief, General Pakenham, were seen advancing from their encampment to storm the American lines. On the preceding evening they had erected a battery within eight hundred yards, which now opened a brisk fire to protect their advance. The British came on in two columns, the left along the levee on the bank of the river, directed against the American right, while their right advanced to the swamp, with a view to turn General Jackson's left. The country being a perfect level, and the view unobstructed, their march was observed from its commencement. They were suffered to approach in silence and unmolested, until within three hundred yards of the lines. This period of suspense and expectation was employed by General Jackson and his officers, in stationing every man at his post, and arranging everything for the decisive event. When the British columns had advanced within three hundred yards of the lines, the whole artillery at once opened upon them a most deadly fire. Forty pieces of cannon deeply charged with grape, canister, and musket balls, mowed them down by hundreds, at the same time the batteries on the west bank opened their fire, while the riflemen in perfect security behind their works, as the British advanced, took deliberate aim, and nearly every shot took effect. Through this destructive fire, the British left column, under the immediate orders of the commander-in-chief, rushed on with their fascines and scaling ladders to the advance bastion on the American right, and succeeded in mounting the parapet; here, after a close conflict with the bayonet, they succeeded in obtaining possession of the bastion, when the battery planted in the rear for its protection, opened its fire and drove the British from the ground. On the American left, the British attempted to pass
the swamp, and gain the rear, but the works had been extended as far into the swamp as the ground would permit. Some who attempted it, sunk into the mire and disappeared; those behind, seeing the fate of their companions, seasonably retreated and gained the hard ground. The assault continued an hour and a quarter: during the whole time the British were exposed to the deliberate and destructive fire of the American artillery and musketry, which lay in perfect security behind their earthen breastworks, through which no balls could penetrate. At eight o'clock, the British columns drew off in confusion, and retreated behind their works. Flushed with success,booty and beauty
as the parole and countersign of the day. Before eight o'clock the three generals were carried off the field, two in the agonies of death, and the third entirely disabled; leaving upward of two thousand of their men, dead, dying, and wounded, on the field of battle. Colonel Raynor, who commanded the forlorn hope which stormed the American bastion on the right, as he was leading his men up, had the calf of his leg carried away by a cannon shot. Disabled as he was, he was the first to mount the parapet, and receive the American bayonet. Seven hundred were killed on the field, fourteen hundred wounded, and five hundred made prisoners, making a total on that day of twenty-six hundred. But six Americans were killed and seven wounded. Of General Morgan's detachment on the west bank, and in a sortie on the British lines, forty-nine were killed, and one hundred and seventy-eight wounded.
After the battle, General Lambert, who had arrived from England but two days before, and was now the only surviving general, requested a truce for the purpose of burying his dead. This was granted until four o'clock in the afternoon of the 9th. Lines were drawn one hundred rods distant from the American camp, within which the British were not permitted to approach. In the ditch, and in front of the works, within the prescribed lines, four hundred and eighty-two British dead were picked up by the American troops, and delivered to their companions over the lines for burial. The afternoon of the 8th and the whole of the 9th, was spent by the British army is burying their dead. The American sentinels guarding the lines during this interval, frequently repeated in the hearing of the British, while tumbling their companions by hundreds into pits, 'Six killed, seven wounded.'
Retreat of the British.
—On the night of the 18th, they broke up their encampment, and commenced their retreat to the place of their first landing. To accomplish this with safety, it was necessary that the army should move in one body. With this view, immediately after the battle of the 8th, large working parties had been employed in constructing a road through a quagmire, for a considerable distance along the margin of the bayou: by binding together large quantities of reeds, and laying them across the mire; in the course of nine days, these parties had constructed something resembling a road from their encampment to the place of debarkation. Along this insecure track, the British army silently stole their march in the night of the 18th of January. By the treading of the first corps, the bundles of reeds gave way, and their followers had to wade up to their knees in mire. Several perished in the sloughs, the darkness of the night preventing their companions from affording relief. At the mouth of the bayou were a few huts, which afforded shelter for fishermen in the season of catching fish for the New Orleans market; here the troops halted and bivouacked previous to their embarkation. Their provisions being exhausted, a few crumbs of biscuit and a small allowance of rum was their only support. Here they were eighty miles from their ships, the whole of which distance they had to traverse in small open boats; and having but few of these, the embarkation occupied ten days. On the 27th, the whole land and naval forces which remained of this disastrous expedition, to their great joy,
The following respecting New Orleans, is extracted from a small work, entitled “Travels in Louisiana and the Floridas in the year 1802, etc.,” a very popular volume, published in Paris, Aug., 1803. Translated by John Davis:
“New Orleans
The depth of the river, taken at the middle of its bed, in front of the city, is about forty fathoms; about half a century ago its depth at the same place was seventy fathoms. Hence it follows (if these measurements be not faulty) that the bed of the river loses in depth what it gains in breadth; it is considerably wider than it was. Its breadth at the same place is about five hundred fathoms, proportionate to the elevation and depression of its waters.
Behind the city is a communication by water with Lake Ponchartrain, which is not more than two leagues distant in a right line toward the north-east from whence small vessels come up with sails, by the way of the Bayou Saint John, which there empties itself. At this confluence is an open canal, which was made some years ago, under the direction of Mons. Carondelet, a work truly useful; which, in procuring to the city the advantages of a double port, purged and drained the neighboring swamps. Formerly, those very vessels navigated the canal which now anchor before the city, but it having been neglected since the departure of the governor, it has lost its advantages in being choked up, and is now the receptacle of only the most diminutive barks.
The city is about 3,600 feet in length: to which may be superadded the suburbs extending like the city along the river, and about half as long; but, strictly speaking, both the city and suburbs are mere outlines, the greater part of the houses being constructed of wood having but one story, erected often on blocks, and roofed with shingles, the whole being of very combustible wood, that is of cypress. Hence this city has been twice on fire, accidentally, in the interval of a small number of years, in the month of March, 1788, and the month of December, 1794. Yet, notwithstanding, the inhabitants every day build wooden houses, regardless of the consequences.
There are a few houses, more solid and less exposed, on the banks of the river, and in the front streets. Those houses are of burnt brick, some one, others two stories high, having the upper part furnished with an open gallery, which surrounds the building. In the heart of the town one sees nothing but the barracks.
The streets are well laid out and tolerably spacious, but that is all. Bordered by a footway of four or five feet, and throughout unpaved, walking is inconvenient; but what more particularly incommodes the foot-passenger is the projecting flight of steps before every door. The streets being flat, the filth of the houses remains where it was thrown; and during a great part of the year, they are a common sewer, a sink of nastiness, dirt, and corruption.
With regard to the public buildings, these are only the Hotel de Ville and the Parochial Church (a plain building of the Ionic order), both built of brick; the former has, however, but one story. They stand near each other, on a spot contiguous to the river. At both times they offered asylums to the inhabitants, many seeking safety under their roofs, instead of exerting themselves to extinguish the flames.
Nearly in the center of the town is a small theater, where, on my arrival, I saw several dramas performed with considerable ability. The company was composed of half a dozen actors and actresses, refugees from the theater of Cape Francais, in the Island of St. Domingo. Nor is this the first instance of Louisiana having profited by the calamities of that island. But by some misunderstanding between the civil and military of the colony, and the indifference of the citizens and colonists, the theatrical troop has been dispersed, and the theater shut. Not long ago, however, some of the citizens were seized with a fit of play-acting, and a display of their dramatic talents was made in the Death of Caesar. They in consequence stabbed with great vigor, rage, and perseverance, this enemy of Roman liberty, in the person of an old colonist, bald headed from years and corpulent from good living. The venerable colonist sustained his part well. But the spectators, who could not yield themselves to the theatrical illusion, ceased not to see, through the representation, the hero of ancient Rome, raised from the dead and
In winter, during the Carnival, there is a public ball open twice a week, one day for the grown people, and another for children. It is nothing but a kind of hall made out of a huge barrack, and stands in such an unfortunate part of the city, that it is only accessible through mud and mire. Each side is accompanied with boxes, where the mammas form a tapestry, and where ladies of younger date, who come merely as spectators, are accommodated with seats. The latter in irony are called
Bredouilles.
groso modo
, from seven at night till cock-crowing the next morning. The price of admittance is four Dutch shillings, or half a piastre, for every individual.”
The French or Catholic Cemetery, in New Orleans, is an interesting spot. On account of the wet nature of the soil, almost all the dead are interred above ground. The principal cemetery (which is within the city limits), is in three divisions, each of which is covered with a profusion of elevated tombs. Many of these are beautifully constructed, embracing a great variety of architecture. A large portion of the tombs are built against the walls which surround each division of the cemetery, having tiers of ovenlike recesses, one above each other, in each of which a body is placed and then walled up by masonry, with a marble slab in front having inscriptions to the memory of the deceased within. The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in these cemeteries; the first from Judge Martin's, the three following from the upper tier in the structure by its side, containing eleven recesses:
Monument of Judge Martin, and others, New Orleans.
Judge Martin's granite monument is on the left, that for a number of Catholic Priests on the right, nearly in front of which is seen a cross, at which place a Catholic clergyman once every year, on All Soul's day (2d Nov.), addresses the multitude which assembles here.
* Francis Xavier Martin, born at Marseilles, March 1765, died in New Orleans, Dec. 10th, 1846. Judge of the Supreme Court of the State of Louisiana during 31, years; of the 1st Superior Court of the Territory of Orleans, 1810; Professor in Harvard College, Massachusetts; member of the House of Representatives of the State of North Carolina, 1806; Judge of the Superior Court of the Territory of Mississippi, 1809; member of the foreign association of the Academy of Marseilles, 1817. “At the age of twenty he left France for America, having in his possession only seventy-five dollars. He located his residence in North Carolina, bound himself to a printer to learn the art of printing; afterward worked as a journeyman, lived abstemiously, made money, and finally purchased the office. While conducting his business, writing editorials, and making selections for a newspaper, he studied law, and made himself familiar with the English language. He was a mind of rare power, which grasped and digested whatever became an object of interest with him. In a few years he gave evidence of greater attainments in jurisprudence than might reasonably be expected in a person of his age, and by rare eloquence as an advocate he became extensively known and popular. Hence, under the administration of President Jefferson, who had become acquainted with his merits, he was constituted Judge of the Mississippi Territory, and located himself at Natchez. In 1815 he was placed on the Bench of the Supreme Court of Louisiana, by Gevornor Claiborne, then chief magistrate of that state; and, in 1837, after the death of Chief-Justice Mathews, Judge Martin was appointed to succeed him; the duties of which office he performed with dignity, ability, and great impartiailty until 1845, when the new Constitution was ratified. He then retired to private life, bearing with him the steem of all who knew him; not only as one of the best jurists in the country, but also as a citizen of the most unblemished moral purity, and possessing social virtues which rendered him an ornament in every relation of life. Judge Martin was a good general scholar, as well as a sound lawyer. His History of Louisiana from its Earliest Period, is a monument to his industry, and an evidence of his talents as a historian. He had some idiosyncrasies. He was not a miser, yet throughout his long life ho practiced
the most rigid economy in his personal expenditures, which at first might have been the result of necessity, prudence, or principle; but it became a habit involving no personal sacrifice. Yet he was a most charitable man to the poor. For many years he was a partner in a brick yard, and during seven years of that time he and his partner ate at the same table, their expenses for board and clothing amounting to only twenty-five cents each per day; and that occurred at a time when his salary as judge amounted to $5,000 per annum. At the time of his death his estate was valued at $400,000.”—
Francois Xavier Martin,
Blake's Universal Biographical Dictionary.
† Here lies the Rev. Don Felipe, who was born in the village of Fermoselle, in the province of Zamora, Spain, died on the 28th of February, in 1850, aged 71 years.
Rev. E. Blin,
vicarius Sti Augusti Obiit die 15a mensis Augusti anno 1853, ætatis 48.
‡ Rev. E. Blin, vicar of St. Augustine, died the 15th of August, 1853, aged 48.
Revd V. G. Gautheaux,
vicarius Sta Mariæ Obiit die 24d mensis Augusti anno 1853, ætatis Suæ 24.
∥ Rev. V. G. Gautheaux, vicar of St, Mary, died 24th of Aug., 1853, aged 24.
In this inclosure, in front of the tomb of the Sisters of Charity, is a splendid marble monument, on the top of which are five statues, two with clasped hands, looking upward, as if viewing the opening scenes above, to which the soul of the departed has arisen: two of the figures, with inverted torches, are looking down ward, as if deploring the death of a companion; the fifth figure, in the center, is of angelic form, and has the appearance of addressing a surrounding multitude with one hand pointing upward. The only word inscribed on the monument is the name of
Barelli,
underneath which is a representation in relief of a steam-boat explosion at a wharf, above which is represented a ministering angel receiving a mortal, over whose face is a vail, and conducting him to the realms on high Above is the all-seeing eye, with cherubs and cherubim, with their harps and other instruments of music. In the same yard is the following, on a high granite monument:
Sacred to the memory of
Alexander Milne,
senior, a native of Lochebar, in Scotland who arrived in this city prior to 1790, and departed this life on the 20th of Oct., 1838, Æ. 94 yrs. He pursued the occupation of a hardware merchant, and by great industry, pru. donee and economy accumulated a very large fortune, which he dedicated to the support and education of the
Orphan,
as appears from the following act to incorporate an Asylum for the destitute Orphan Boys, under the name and style of the “
Milne Asylum
for destitute Orphan Boys. [Hero follows the act of the Legislature, approved by the governor, A. B. Roman, Feb. 27, 1839. By another act of the same Legislature, of the same date, an Asylum for Orphan Girls was incorporated. An extract from the will of Mr. Milne is also engraved on the monument.
Societe des enfants de St. Jean, sous la protection de Marie, 27 Mars, 1853.
§ Society of the children of St. John, under the protection of Mary, 27th March, 1853.
Seciete fleur de Marie, sous la protection de Ste Anne, instituee le 15 Dec., 1852.
* Society of the flower of Mary, under the protection of St. Anne, instituted Dec. 15th, 1852.
Le Mausolie est con tribut paye par l'amour paternal, a la memoire d'une fille cherie
Pauline Elsa Foy,
nee le 17 Mars, 1814, morte le 7 Mai, 1833, victims du fleau qui desola ce pays.
Paix eternelle a la cendre sacree
Que renferme a jamais, ce pieux monument,
C'est le dernier sejour d'une fille adore
Modele de vertus, d'amour de devoument,
Elle faisait le bien, sans' en chercher la glorie,
Lorsque le cruel sort abregea ses beaux jours.
Ses parens affliges la pleurerout tojours,
Et dans leurs coeurs conservent sa memoire.
Cavissimae filice suæ, infelix pater hoc sepulchrum erexit.
Vous que jai tant aimes,
Vous me devez des pleurs;
Sur ma tomb en offrande,
Apportez vos douleurs,
Ut flos ante diem Flebilis occidit.
Stop stranger, have a tear for other's woes,
In this sad tomb a Father's hopes repose.
Piu dell' ombra e fugace Questa vita mortal che tanto piace.
† This tomb is a tribute given by paternal love to the memory of a beloved daughter
Pauline Eliza Foy born March 17, 1814, died the 7th May, 1833, victim to the scourge which desolated this land.
Eternal rest to these, the blest remains,
That ever more, this monument contains
The last abode of a beloved child,
Model of virtue, love, devotion mild,
She has done well, yet seeking not for praise,
When cruel fate cut short her lovely days.
Her stricken parents' tears will never dry,
But in their hearts preserve her memory.
To his most beloved daughter; an unhappy father has erected this monument.
Ye whom I've loved so well,
Ye who pay to me a tear,
On my tomb for offering,
Bring your grief and sorrow here,
More of the shadow is fleeting than can charm this mortal, life.
Aqui yace
Don Jose Javiere De Olazabal,
nacido en Azpeitia de vizcaya, quien con su prudente y generosa beneficencia Uego a la sara felicidad de ser armigo de todos y que todos lo fueran suyos, Modelo de maridos y de padres egecito' ademas por tiempo largo en vera cruz su selo por el bien publico, su curidad con los enfermos, y su liberalidad con los probes. Asistido y Urado por su amante agradecida familia, murio a los 59 anos de su edad en 4 de Noviembre de 1832.
There are several large structures, erected by various societies of different nations. “The Portuguese Benevolent Association” was instituted in 1848; a fine female statue, in a weeping posture, adorns their Mausoleum, and on the east side of the pedestal on which she sits is engraven the word
“Silence.
” The Italian monument is a very superior structure of marble, adorned with statuary of the first order. The “Orleans Battalion of Artillery,” the Societe of Francais de Bien. faisane, and several others, are large structures. The following is copied from one of these monuments:
La companie des
Cazadores D'orleans,
formee in 1829, et attaches a la legion de la Louisiane, a erice a see Membres ce Monument ou leurs depouilles mortelles gisent dans un repos eternel, 1836.
Amen.
La companie de
Cazadores De Orleans,
ormada a impulsos de Espanoles Residences in Orleans, y Abierta a todo defensor de la libertad Americana: fue instalada el dia 4 de Julio de 1836. Siendo su capitan
Dn Joaquim Niosca.
R. I. P. Longa a Patria venientes Hispani Libertatis causa Cohorte Militare formats Nevaurelli Hane Ultiman Sedem Militibus ejus defunctis crexcrunt. A.D. MDCCCXXXVI. Die IV quintilis mensis. S. I. T. L. Every man belonging to the “
Cazadores De Orleans
” shall find here a retreat where his mortal remains may rest in peace. R. I. P.
Baton Rouge,
the capital of Louisiana, is situated on the east or left bank of the Mississippi, 130 miles above New Orleans, and 1,120 miles S.W. from Washington. It is mostly built on an elevated plain or bluff, some 30 or 40 feet above high water, being the first elevation on the Mississippi from its entrance into the Gulf of Mexico. The city contains the state house, the state penitentiary, court house, jail, several churches, an academy for females, several manufacturing establishments, the deaf, dumb and blind asylum, and about 4,000 inhabitants. The United States barracks adjoin the city on the north.
Western view of Baton Rouge.
The view shows the appearance of Baton Rouge, as seen from the levee on the opposite bak of the Mississippi, about a mile distant. The Deaf, Dumb and Blind Asylum is seen on the extreme right; the State Capitol is the next prominent building to the left.
The State Capitol at Baton Rouge, erected in 1847, is upon the lower point of the last bluff which extends to the river. Its architecture is of the mixed Gothic order: it resembles an ancient feudal castle, and has quite a striking and imposing appearance, when viewed from the river. The smaller building by its side contains a statue of Washington, by Powers. The Garrison buildings, on the opposite side of the city, are neat, handsome and convenient, and at this place is stored the arms and ammunition to supply the southern military posts. The Asylum for the Deaf, Dumb and Blind was established in 1852, and when completed will be superior to any similar structure in the south.
State Capitol At Baton Rouge.
Baton Rouge is, next to New Orleans, the oldest town in the state, the first settlement being made shortly after that of New Orleans by the French, but the difficulty in navigating the river with sail vessels to such a distance from the Gulf, was such that it never increased to any great extent. At the time of the purchase of Louisiana, Baton Rouge being then in the hands of theBaton Rouge
(Red Stick.)
General Zachary Taylor had his family residence, for many years, at Baton Rouge. It was a small cottage built house, standing upon the bank of the Mississippi, and was originally inhabited by the commandant of the old Spanish fort. “It contained but three large rooms, to which'were added in course of time a surrounding veranda, and some out-buildings devoted to domestic purposes. Here Col. Taylor, when ordered to take a command in the army south, refusing the more ostentatious quarters of ‘the garrison,’ established himself, and here the members of his family resided: more or less, for the quarter of a century that preceded his translation to the ‘White House.’ At the time of the ‘Presidential contest,’ the thousands who traveled upon the great highway of the south and west, the Mississippi, were accustomed to stop their steamers in front of this, humble looking house, and make the welkin ring with exulting cheers and nothing could exceed the enthusiasm when ‘old Whitey,’ grazing in his retirement, would start at the enlivening sounds, and sweep along the bluff in graceful movements, as if cordially acknowledging the honors paid to his master.”
Gen. Taylor's Residence
Opelousas
, the capital of St. Landry parish, is near the head of the Vermillion River, 55 miles west from Baton Rouge, and 217 from New Orleans, in a pleasant and fertile country. The village contains a court house, two banks, four churches, and a U. S. land office. Population about 2,000. The Franklin College, founded in 1839, having a president and several professors, is located in this place. The village has shaded streets, substantial mansions, and pretty cottages.
Natchitoches
, the capital of Natchitoches parish, is on the west side of Red River, 143 miles N.W. of Baton Rouge, 414 miles by steamboat from New Orleans, and 178 miles from the junction with the Mississippi River. The village stands at the foot of a bluff, and contains a court house, a U. S. land office, several churches and academies, and about 2,000 inhabitants, a mixture of American, Spanish and French descent. The first settlement of Natchtoches may be dated at 1714, when about thirty men under St. Denys, established a trading post on the site of the present town. St. Denys was a bold
Shreveport
, the capital of Caddo parish, is situated on the right bank of the Red River, 201 miles north-west of Baton Rouge, and about 30 miles below the “Great Raft.” Population about 3000. It is the most commercial town in the north-western section of the State, and the only accessible port for a large region. About 60,000 bales of cotton are shipped annually. A railroad is in progress from Vicksburg through this town into Texas, and will there connect with the Southern Pacific R. R.
Alexandria
, on Red River below the lower rapids, is the great cotton mart of Red River. It is the capital of Rapides parish, and has about 2,000 inhabitants.
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, MISCELLANIES, ETC.
Hernando De Soto
, who with his men were the first European traversers of the soil of Louisiana, was one of the most distinguished companions of Pizarro, in his conquest of Peru. He landed in Florida, in May, 1539, with a force of upward of 1,300 men, many of whom were gentlemen of the best blood, of Spain and Portugal. After wandering about with various vicissitudes, through Alabama, Mississippi and Tennessee, for two years, he is supposed to have crossed to the western side of the Mississippi River, near the site of Memphis, Tenn. Meeting with alternate hospitality and hostility on the part of the natives, he arrived at the mouth of Red River, in Louisiana, where he closed his adventurous career in May, 1542. The following relative to his death is from Monette's History of the Valley of the Mississippi:
“A melancholy had seized upon his spirits, while the incessant fatigue of body and anxiety of mind, together with the influence of the climate, brought on a slow, wasting fever, which at length confined him to his bed. Still, De Soto was the vigilant commander, and from his sick-bed gave all the necessary orders, and directed all the plans of movement. But his labors and anxieties were fast coming to a close; and being conscious of the near approach of death, he prepared himself to die like a soldier and a devout Catholic. Having made his will, and with great solemnity appointed and installed Luis de Moscoso as his successor, he called all his faithful officers to him, two and two, and bade them an affectionate farewell; begged forgiveness if at any time, in the discharge of his duty, he had been harsh toward them; and exhorted them to remain true to the king, courageous and affectionate to one another; he thanked them for the fidelity and constancy with which they adhered to his fortunes, and expressed deep regret that it was not in his power to reward them according to their merits.
He next called to him his soldiers, according to their rank, by twenties, and in like manner bade them adieu, with his blessing. He expired the next day, being about the fifth of June.
The death of De Soto overwhelmed his hardy veterans with sorrow; they had followed him nearly four years; and in all their sufferings he had suffered with them, and led them on through dangers which he had equally shared. They mourned for him as for a father; and so much the more, because they could not give him a burial and such obsequies as were due his birth and rank: they also feared lest his remains should be insulted by the Indians after he was buried. The hostile Indians had been in the habit of searching for the bodies of Spaniards who had been buried, and when found they would quarter them, and set them on posts and trees as trophies. How much more eager would they be for the governor's body? To prevent this, they sought a retired spot near the village, where
William C. C. Claiborne
, the first American governor of Louisiana, was born in Virginia in 1775, was bred to the law, and emigrated to Sullivan county, Tennessee. At 22 years of age he was appointed a judge, he being at the time considered at the head of his profession in Tennessee. Soon after, he was elected to congress, and in 1801 he was appointed governor of Mississippi Territory. In 1804 he was appointed governor of the territory of Louisiana: “His justice and urbanity endeared him to all classes; and when, in 1812, Louisiana became an independent state, the people chose him for their governor, by an almost unanimous vote. He was in the executive chair during the memorable invasion of the British, and their repulse at New Orleans by General Jackson, early in 1815. On that occasion Governor Claiborne wisely and generously surrendered to Jackson all power and command, and, under that general's orders, the magistrate led a large body of the militia of his state. His long career as governor of Louisiana terminated in 1817, when he was chosen to represent that state in the Federal senate. But his useful life closed too soon to allow him to serve his countrymen any more. He died in New Orleans, on the 23d of November, 1817, in the forty-second year of his age. The municipal authorities decreed a public funeral, and money was appropriated to erect a marble monument to his memory.”
Merriwether Lewis
was born in Virginia in 1774. From 1801 to 1803, he was the private secretary of Jefferson, who, in 1803, appointed him to the command of the party to explore the North American continent, from the head waters of the Missouri to the Pacific. He was absent about three years, and in 1806 was appointed governor of Louisiana. lie died in 1809, by his own hand, at the early age of 35. To his history of the expedition, published after his death, was appended a sketch of his life, written by Mr. Jefferson.
Edward Livingston
was born in Clermont, New York, in 1764, was bred to the bar, and from 1794 to 1800, was a member of congress from his native state, and then became mayor of the city of New York. Emigrating to New Orleans, he late in life was sent to both houses of congress from Louisiana. In 1831, he was secretary of state under President Jackson, and in 1833 was sent as a minister to France. He died in 1836. His fame rests upon his eminence as a jurist. With his supervision the whole system of jurisprudence of Louisiana underwent a revision. The result of his labors was published in one large volume, which, in the beauty of its arrangement, the wisdom of its provisions, and the simplicity of its forms, has probably never been equaled.
Eleazer Wheelock Ripley
was born in Hanover, N. H., in 1782. In the late war with Great Britain, he became a brigadier general, and was much distinguished in the battles of the Niagara frontier, and was presented by congress with a gold medal for his brave defense of Fort Erie. Emigrating to Louisiana, he became a citizen, and from 1835 to 1839, was one of its representatives in congress. He died in 1839.
John James Audubon
, the eminent ornithologist, was born of French parents, at New Orleans, in 1780, and was educated at Paros. His life was one of indefatigable industry and of bold, fearless adventure in the prosecution of his darling pursuit. His work on the birds of America is a perpetual monument to his genius and an honor to his country. He died in 1851, at his seat on the banks of the Hudson.
PURCHASE OF LOUISIANA.
* This article is extracted from Bonner's History of Louisiana.
In 1763, Louisiana was ceded to Spain, and by a secret article in the treaty of St. Ildefonso, concluded in 1800, that power ceded it back to France. Napoleon, however, wished to keep this cession secret until he should have—as he hoped to do—reduced St. Domingo to submission. Failing in this, he was rendered indifferent to his new acquisition. In January, 1803, he sent out Laussat as prefect of the colony, which was the first intimation that the inhabitants had of the transfer which gave them great joy.
On being informed of this retrocession, President Jefferson had dispatched instructions to Robert Livingston, the American minister at Paris, to represent to the First Consul that the occupation of New Orleans by France would endanger the friendly relations between the two nations, and, perhaps, even oblige the United States to make common cause with England; as the possession of this city by the former, by giving her the command of the Mississippi, the only outlet to the produce of the western states, and also of the Gulf of Mexico, so important to American commerce, would render it almost certain that the conflicting interests of the two nations would lead to an open rupture. Mr. Livingston was therefore instructed not only to insist upon the free navigation of the Mississippi, but to negotiate for the acquisition of New Orleans itself and the surrounding territory; and Mr. Monroe was appointed with full powers to assist him in the negotiation.
Bonaparte, who always acted promptly, soon came to the conclusion that what he could not defend, he had better dispose of on the best terms; but before deciding, he summoned two of his ministers in council, on the 10th of April, 1803, and thus addressed them:
“I am fully sensible of the value of Louisiana, and it was my wish to repair the error of the French diplomatists who abandoned it in 1763. I have scarcely recovered it before I run the risk of losing it; but if I am obliged to give it up, it shall hereafter cost more to those who force me to part with it than to those to whom I yield it, The English have despoiled France of all her northern possessions in America, and now they covet those of the south. I am determined that they shall not have the Mississippi. Although Louisiana is but a trifle compared to their vast possessions in other parts of the globe, yet, judging from the vexation they have manifested on seeing it return to the power of France, I am certain that their first object will be to gain possession of it. They will probably commence the war in that quarter. They have twenty vessels in the Gulf of Mexico, and our affairs in St. Domingo are daily getting worse since the death of Le Clerc. The conquest of Louisiana might be easily made, and I have not a moment to lose in putting it out of their reach. I am not sure but what they have already begun an attack upon it. Such a measure would be in accordance with their habits; and in their place I should not wait. I am inclined, in order to deprive them of all prospect of ever possessing it, to cede it to the United States. Indeed, I can hardly say that I cede it, for I do not yet possess it; and if I wait but a short time, my enemies may leave me nothing but an empty title to grant to the Republic I wish to conciliate. They only ask for one city of Louisiana, but I consider the whole colony as lost; and I believe that in the hands of this rising power it will be more useful to the political, and even the commercial interests of France, than if I should attempt to retain it. Let me have both your opinions on the subject.”
One of the ministers, Barbe Marbois, fully approved of the cession, but the other opposed it. They debated the matter for a long time, and Bonaparte concluded the conference without making his determination known. The next day, however, he sent for Marbois, and said to him:
“The season for deliberation is over: I have determined to renounce Louisiana. I shall give up not only New Orleans, but the whole colony, without reservation. That I do not undervalue Louisiana I have sufficiently proved, as the object of my first treaty with Spain was to recover it. But, though I regret parting with it, I am convinced it would be folly to persist in trying to keep it. I commission you,
The negotiations commenced that very day. Mr. Monroe arrived at Paris on the 12th of April, and the two representatives of the United States, after holding a private conference, announced that they were ready to treat for the cession of the entire territory, which at first Mr. Livingston had hesitated to do, believing the proposal of the First Consul to be only a device to gain time.
On the 30th of April, 1803, the treaty was signed. The United States were to pay fifteen million dollars for their new acquisition, and be indemnified for some illegal captures; while it was agreed that the vessels and merchandise of France and Spain should be admitted into all the ports of Louisiana free of duty for twelve years.
Bonaparte stipulated in favor of Louisiana that it should as soon as possible be incorporated into the Union, and that its inhabitants should enjoy the same rights, privileges, and immunities as other citizens of the United States; and the third article of the treaty, securing to them these benefits, was drawn up by the First Consul himself, who presented it to the plenipotentiaries with these words:
“Make it known to the people of Louisiana that we regret to part with them; that we have stipulated for all the advantages they could desire; and that France, in giving them up, has insured to them the greatest of all. They could never have prospered under any European government as they will when they become independent. But, while they enjoy the privileges of liberty, let them ever remember that they are French, and preserve for their mother-country that affection which a common origin inspires.”
The completion of this important transaction gave equal satisfaction to both parties. “I consider,” said Livingston, “that from this day the United States takes rank with the first powers of Europe, and now she has entirely escaped from the power of England;” and Bonaparte expressed a similar sentiment in these words: “By this cession of territory I have secured the power of the United States, and given to England a maratime rival, who at some future time will humble her pride.” These words appeared prophetic when the troops of Britain, a few years after, met so signal an overthrow on the plains of Louisiana.
The boundaries of the colony had never been clearly defined, and one of Bonaparte's ministers drew his attention to his obscurity. “No matter,” said he, “if there was no uncertainty, it would, perhaps, be good policy to leave some;” and, in fact, the Americans, interpreting to their own advantage this uncertainty, some few years after seized upon the extensive territory of Baton Rouge, which was in dispute between them and the Spaniards.
On the 30th of November, 1803, Laussat took possession of the country, when Casa Calvo and Salcedo, the Spanish commissioners, presented to him the keys of the city, over which the tri-colored flag floated but for a short time. The colony had been under the rule of Spain for a little more than thirty-four years.
On the 20th of December, in the same year, Gen. Wilkinson and Gov. Claiborne, who were jointly commissioned to take possession of the country for the United States, made their entry into New Orleans at the head of the American troops. Laussat gave up his command, and the star-spangled banner supplanted the tricolored flag of France.
The purchase of Louisiana, which gave the United States their sole claim to the vast territory west of the Mississippi, extending on the north through Oregon to the Pacific, and further south to the Mexican dominions, was the most important“the mistress of the world.”
CULTIVATION OF SUGAR CANE.
* Abridged from an article in Harper, by T. B. Thorpe, entitled “Sugar and the Sugar Region of Louisiana,” and from Olmsted's “Seaboard Slave States.”
Louisiana produces about half the amount of sugar used in the United States or more than 350,000 hogsheads, of 1,000 lbs. each per annum. Sugar is a modern production: it was unknown to the ancients, and even in the middle ages was a luxury seldom indulged in even by the wealthiest. It is generally conceded that the plant originated in China. The cane was first introduced into Europe by the Saracens, who cultivated it in Sicily, and the islands in the vicinity: by the middle of the 13th century, it became generally known to the European world. Soon after the discovery of America the sugar cane was introduced by the early colonists of St. Domingo and other West India islands, which soon became famous for its cultivation and the extraordinary improvements introduced there in the manufacture of sugar. In 1751, the cane was introduced into Louisiana by Jesuit priests from St. Domingo, who, by the industry of negroes familiar with its cultivation, planted it upon lands now occupied by the most densely populated part of New-Orleans. The climate of Louisiana is far inferior to that of the West Indies for the production of sugar; but the cane in time becomes acclimated and insensible to the cold which would destroy that grown farther south.
Gathering Sugar Cane.
Until within the memory of those now living, the cultivation of the cane was confined to the vicinity of New Orleans. A great change has taken place: for over two hundred miles on either side of tile Mississippi, and on the banks of many of its tributaries, together with the rich country—almost unknown except to its inhabitants—of Opelousas and Attakappas, lying westwardly on the Gulf coast, the sugar cane flourishes in the greatest perfection. A large number of the great cotton farms on lower Red River, have been successfully changed into the cultivation of cane, and the “high lands,” which mean those above the annual rise of the Mississippi, have gratefully rewarded the labor of the sugar planter.
Sugar cane is classed by botanists among the grasses. Its technical description, except to the initiated, gives but an indefinite idea to the general reader. Superficially, it resembles, in the field, the growing corn; but, on examination, it will be found to be very different. The stem, in every species of cane, is round and hard, and divided, at short, irregular intervals, with joints. When it is considered, that
The largest and most important sugar plantations of Louisiana lie, with few exceptions, upon the low lands of the Mississippi and its outlets. The consequence is, that they are beautifully level, and present a different appearance from any other agricultural portion of the Union. The prairies of the West roll like the swells of the sea, but the fields of Louisiana spread out with an evenness of surface that finds no parallel, except in the undisturbed bosom of the inland lake.
One of the most interesting and picturesque portions of Louisiana devoted to the cultivation of sugar, lying off the banks of the Mississippi River, is the country of “the Attakappas.” This earthly paradise—for such a name it really deserves —lies west of the Mississippi River, and borders upon the Gulf of Mexico. It would be almost impossible to describe its character, it is so composed of bayous, lakes, rivers, prairies, and impenetrable swamps. To even a large portion of the oldest inhabitants of the state, Attakappas is an unknown region, and so it is destined to remain, except to its immediate inhabitants, if artificial means are not adopted to facilitate communication. In the spring you can reach the Attakappas in a comfortable steamer; later in the season all direct communication is cut off by the “low water.”
Here, upon the borders of the Teche, is the most enchanting scenery and the richest sugar farms of Louisiana. Unlike the Mississippi, the Teche has no levees: its waters never overflow. The stately residences of the planters are surrounded by gardens, the shrubbery of which reaches to the water's edge, and hedges of rose and hawthorn, of lemon and orange, every where meet the ravished eye. Along its shores the magnificent live oak rears itself in all the pride of vigorous “ancient youth,” and gives to the gently undulating landscape, the expression so often witnessed in the lordly parks of England.
The pleasant town of
Franklin
lies upon the Teche, and is the shipping port of the richest sugar parish of the state. Vessels of large size while in the Gulf of Mexico turn aside from the mud-choked mouths of the Mississippi, and floating and cordelling through innumerable bays and bayous, finally work their way into the “interior,” and mingle their rigging with the foliage of the forest. Here these argosies, born in the cold regions of the Aroostook, fill their holds with sugar and molasses, and, once freighted, wing their way to the north.
Running parallel with the Teche are magnificent lakes, that consequently lie upon the rear of the plantations. It is the mists from these inland seas, with those of the rivers, that rise over the sugar cane in winter, and protect it from frosts which in less favored regions destroy the planter's prospects. To the accidental location of a plantation with regard to water, it is often indebted for a comparative exemption from freezing cold.
Immediately after the business of one year is closed, and the holidays are at an end, one of the first things attended to, as a commencement of the year's labor, is the clearing out of the ditches, that have become choked up by vegetation in the course of the summer and fall months. The ditches form one ef the most important and expensive necessities of a sugar estate; for, with the exception of frost, standing water is the most destructive thing to cane. Rains that fall in torrents in these latitudes, not only have to be guarded against, but also the more insidious and ever-encroaching “transpiration water.” To form an idea of what is meant by this term, it must be remembered that the lands on the Mississippi River are protected from annual inundation by embankments known as “levees.” In the spring of the year, the Mississippi, as the conductor to the ocean of more than half the running water of the North American continent, rises not only until its banks are full—but would, if left to itself, overflow for a season the whole lower country through which it passes. To remedy this evil, from below New Orleans and up toward the north for hundreds of miles, the river is lined with an embankment, which, in times of flood, confines its waters within its usual channel. These embankments vary fromascending
flood that at these particular times literally boils and billows under the earth.
The highest lands upon the Mississippi River are those forming the banks; as you go inland, they gradually sink. In draining a plantation, it is customary to cut parallel ditches about two hundred feet apart, from the front to the rear of the plantation, with cross ditches every six hundred feet. This complication of artificial canals requires not only an enormous outlay of capital and occupation of valuable land, but also taxes the scientific engineer to give them their proper levels. In many instances, it is found impossible to accomplish this, and costly draining-machines have to be called into service. There is erected the steam-engine, that in every revolution tumbles the superabundant water that is running so merrily in the ditches over the back levee into the swamp.
There are plantations on which within a square mile can be found from twenty to thirty miles of ditching. Often the “bayous” of the country are cleared out, and form an important natural adjunct in carrying off the surplus water, but to the labor of man is to be ascribed the making of the most formidable channels; for on some plantations can be seen a regular system of deep and carefully constructed canals. It may be with truth said, that the industry and capital expended in Louisiana alone, to preserve the state from inundation, have erected works of internal improvement which, united, far surpass in extent, and if concentrated within the vision of a single eye, would be superior in magnificence to the renowned pyramids of Egypt.
This extensive ditching has required the labor of years to accomplish. At first very little was needed, for only the highest lands of the river were cultivated. As plantation after plantation was opened, and the levees increased, this ditching became more important—in fact, the value of the plantation for productiveness depended upon their construction. Where the “plantation force” is large, the negroes do most of this important work, and generally are able to keep all clean when once they are made. But the same hardy and improvident son of Erin that levels mountains at the north, or tunnels through their rocky hearts, that flourishing cities may be built, and railways be constructed, finds his way to the distant south; and with spade and wheelbarrow, is ever ready to move about the rich soil with an energy and ease that finds no rival except in the labors of an earthquake.
For planting, new or fallow ground is prepared by plowing the whole surface. The ground being then harrowed, drills are opened with a double mold-board plow seven feet apart. Cuttings of cane for seed are to be planted in them. These are reserved from the crop in the autumn, when some of the best cane on the plantation is selected for this purpose, while still standing. This is cut off at the roots, and laid up in heaps or stacks, in such a manner that the leaves and tops protect the stalks from frost. The heaps are called mattresses; they are two or three feet high, and as many yards across. At the planting season they are opened, and the cane comes out moist and green, and sweet, with the buds or eyes, which protrude at the joints, swelling. The immature top parts of the stalk are cut off, and they are loaded into carts, and carried to the ground prepared for planting. The carts used are large, with high side-boards, and are drawn by three mules—one large one being in the shafts, and two lighter ones abreast, before her. The drivers are boys, who use the whip a great deal, and drive rapidly. In the field, says Olmsted, in his book, I found the laborers working in three divisions—the first, consisting of light hands, brought the cane by armsfull from the cart, and laid it by the side of the furrows; the second planted it, and the third covered it. Planting is done by laying the cuttings at the bottom of the furrow, in such a way that there shall be three always together, with the eyes of each a little removed from those of the others—that is, all “breaking joints.” They are thinly covered with earth, drawn over them with hoes. The other tools were so well selected on this plantation,
Cane will grow for several years from the roots of the old plants, and, when it is allowed to do so, a very considerable part of the expense is avoided; but the vigor of the plant is less when growing from this source than when starting from cuttings, and the crop, when thus obtained, is annually less and less productive, until, after a number of years, depending upon the rigor of the seasons, fresh shoots cease to spring from the stubble. This sprouting of cane from the stools of the last crop is termed “ratooning.” In the West India plantations the cane is frequently allowed to ratoon for eight successive crops. In Louisiana it is usual to plant once in three years, trusting to the ratooning for two crops only, and this was the practice on Mr. R's plantation. The cost of sugar growing would be very greatly increased if the crop needed planting every year: for all the cane grown upon an acre will not furnish seed for more than four acres—consequently one twelfth of the whole of each crop has to be reserved for the planting of the following crop, even when two thirds of this is to be of ratoon cane.
Planting is finished in a favorable season—early in March. Tillage is commenced immediately afterward, by plowing
from
the rows of young cane, and subsequently continued very much after the usual plan of tillage for potatoes, when planted in drills, with us. By or before the first of July, the crop is all well earthed up, the rows of cane growing from the crest of a rounded bed, seven feet wide, with deep water-furrows between each. The cane is at this time five or six feet high; and that growing from each bed forms arches with that of the next, so as to completely shade the ground. The furrows between the beds are carefully cleaned out; so that in the most drenching torrents of rain, the water is rapidly carried off into the drains, and thence to the swamp; and the crop then requires no further labor upon it until frost is apprehended, or the season for grinding arrives.
The nearly three months' interval, commencing at the intensest heat of summer, corresponds in the allotment of labor to the period of winter in northern agriculture, because the winter itself, on the sugar-plantations, is the planting-season. The negroes are employed in cutting and carting wood for boiling the cane-juice, in making necessary repairs or additions to the sugar-house, and otherwise preparing for the grinding-season.
The grinding-season is the harvest of the sugar-planter; it commences in October, and continues for two or three months, during which time, the greatest possible activity and the utmost labor of which the hands are capable, are required to secure the product of the previous labor of the year. Mr. R. assured me that during the last grinding-season nearly every man, woman, and child on his plantation, including his overseer and himself, were at work fully eighteen hours a day. From the moment grinding first commences, until the end of the season, it is never discontinued; the fires under the boiler never go out, and the negroes rest only for six hours in the twenty-four, by relays—three quarters of them being constantly at work.
Notwithstanding the severity of the labor required of them at this time, Mr. R. said that his negroes were as glad as he was himself to have the time for grinding arrive, and they worked with greater cheerfulness than at any other season. How can those persons who are always so ready to maintain that the slaves work less than free laborers in free countries, and that for that reason they are to be envied by them, account for this? That at Mr. R.'s plantation it was the case that the slaves enjoyed most that season of the year when the hardest labor was required of them, I have, in addition to Mr. R.'s own evidence, good reason to believe, which I shall presently report. And the reason of it evidently is, that they are then better paid; they have better and more varied food and stimulants than usual, but especially they have a degree of freedom, and of social pleasure, and a variety of occupation which brings a recreation of the mind, and to a certain degree gives them strength for, and pleasure in, their labor. Men of sense have discovered that when they desire to get extraordinary exertions from their slaves, it is better to offer them rewards than to whip them; to encourage them rather than drive them.
If the season has been favorable, so that the cane is strong, and well matured, it will endure a smart early frost without injury, particularly if the ground is well drained; but as rapidly as possible, after the season has arrived at which frosts are to be expected, the whole crop is cut, and put in mattresses, from which it is taken to the grinding-mill as fast as it can be made to use it.
The business of manufacturing sugar is everywhere carried on in connection with the planting of the cane. The shortness of the season during which the cane can be used is the reason assigned for this: the proprietors would not be willing to trust to custom mills to manufacture their produce with the necessary rapidity. If cane should be cultivated in connection with other crops—that is, on small farms, instead of great “sugar only” plantations—neighborhood custom-mills would probably be employed. The profits of a sugar-plantation are now large, much in proportion to its size (if it be proportionately stocked), because only a very large supply of cane will warrant the proprietor in providing the most economical manufacturing apparatus. In 1849 there were 1,474 sugar estates in Louisiana, producing 236,547 hhds. of sugar; but it is thought that half of this quantity was produced on less than 200 estates—that is, that one eighth of the plantations produced one half the sugar. The sugar-works on some of the large estates cost over $100,000, and many of them manufacture over 1,000,000 lbs. per annum. The profits of these, in a favorable season are immense.
At the close of the year's labor are the holidays, which extend from Christmas to New Year. The negroes now enjoy uninterrupted repose; or, rather, have the liberty of indulging their caprices, so long as they are harmless to themselves and others, free from constraint.
The planter and his family have too their trysting time. The mother and her comely daughters hie to the city of New Orleans, in pursuit of the innocent amusements of the season; and the “Crescent City,” at these times, shows a perceptible filling up of joyous, familiar, and southern-looking faces. The fashionable dry goods and jewelry stores, the opera, and the “society balls,” all feel the genial influence of these holiday times, and it only gradually disappears as the summer heat sets in, and drives residents of the country back to their rural homes.
State Arms Of Tennessee.
Tennessee
was originally included within the limits of North Carolina. The first establishment of the Anglo-Saxon race within its borders was Fort Loudon, on the north bank of Little Tennessee or Watauga River, about a mile above the mouth of Tellico River, and some 30 miles south-westerly from Knoxville. This fortification was erected by Andrew Lewis, in 1756, who was sent here for that purpose by the Earl of Loudon, the governor of Virginia and commander of the King's troops in America. The fort was garrisoned by British troops, and this, with other fortified places established afterward, induced large numbers of emigrants to settle in the vicinity. In the spring of 1758, the garrison of Fort Loudon was augmented to 200 men. In a few months, by the arrival of traders and hunters, it grew into a thriving village. At the time Tennessee was first explored, its territory was a vast and almost unoccupied wilderness, over which the Indian hunters seldom roamed. Being equi-distant from the settled territories of the southern and northern tribes, it remained a kind of neutral ground. By reason of the mildness of the climate, and the rich pasturage furnished by its varied ranges of plain and mountain, in common with Kentucky, it had become a great park in which the beasts of the forest ranged without much molestation. The Cherokees, in the south-east corner of the territory, appear to have been the only Indian tribe who had any permanent location in the state. The other parts of Tennessee were either claimed or occupied as hunting grounds by the Chickasaws, Choctaws, and Shawnees. The
Six Nations
also claimed a right to the grounds north and east of the Tennessee River, and the first cession of lands by any of the aboriginal tribes was made by them.
The second fort built in Tennessee was in the north-east corner of the state, within the present limits of Sullivan county, near the Virginia line, in 1758, by Col. Bird, in the French and Indian war. It was erected on aRussel Bean
, was the first white child born in Tennessee.
In 1769 or 1770, a company of ten hunters built two boats and trapping canoes, loaded them with the results of their hunting, and descended the Cumberland River—the first navigation and the first commerce probably ever carried on upon that stream by the Anglo-Americans. Where Nashville now stands they discovered the French Lick, and found immense numbers of buffalo and other wild game. Descending the river to the Ohio, they met with Indians, who, while they stole a few articles, offered them no personal injury. On descending the Ohio they met with Frenchmen trading to the Illinois, who treated them with friendship. From thence they sailed down the Mississippi as far as the then Spanish town of Natchez. Here some of them remained while the others returned.
In 1760, the Cherokees besieged Fort Loudon, with its garrison of 200 men. The garrison, having subsisted for a month principally on the flesh of horses and dogs, agreed to capitulate, on condition they should be allowed to return to Virginia or Fort Prince George. After marching about fifteen miles from the fort, they were surrounded and treacherously attacked by nearly 500 warriors; with horrid yells they rushed, tomahawk in hand, upon the feeble and emaciated troops, and massacred nearly all of them on the spot. The next year, Col. Grant, with a body of 2,600 men (Highlanders, Provincials and friendly Indians), marched into the Cherokee country, gave battle to the Indians, burned their dwellings, and laid waste their country.
The celebrated Francis Marion was a subordinate officer in this campaign, and in writing to a friend, he gave the following touching and picturesque account: “We arrived at the Indian towns in the month of July. As the ground was rich and the season had been favorable, the corn was bending under the double weight of lusty roasting cars and pods and clustering beans. The furrows seemed to rejoice under their precious loads—the fields stood thick with bread. We encamped the first night in the woods, near the fields, where the whole army feasted on the young corn, which, with fat venison, made a most delicious treat. The next morning, we proceeded, by order of Col. Grant, to burn down the Indian cabins. Some of our men seemed to enjoy this cruel work, laughing very heartily at the curling flames, as they mounted, loud crackling, over the tops of the huts. But to me, it appeared a shocking sight. ‘Poor creatures!’ thought I, ‘we surely need not grudge you such miserable habitations.’ But when we came, according to orders, to cut down the fields of corn, I could scarcely refrain from tears. For who could see the stalks, that stood so stately, with broad, green leaves, and gayly tasseled shocks, filled with sweet, milky fluid, and flour, the staff of life—who, I say, without grief, could see these sacred plants sinking under our sword, with all their precious load, to wither, and rot untasted in the mourning fields! I saw everywhere around, the footsteps of little Indian children, where they had lately played under the shelter of the rustling corn. No doubt they had often looked up with joy, to the swelling shocks, and gladdened when they thought of their abundant cakes for the coming winter. When we are gone, thought I, they will return, and, peeping
The result of these measures was decisive, and a deputation of chiefs visited the camp to sue for peace. Among them was Attakulla, a chief who had been opposed to the war, and who thus addressed Col. Grant:
“You live at the water side, and are in light. We are in darkness; but hope all will be clear. I have been constantly going about doing good; and though I am tired, yet I am come to see what can be done for my people, who are in great distress. As to what has happened, I believe it has been ordered by our Father above. We are of a different color from the white people. They are superior to us. But one God is Father of us all, and we hope what is past will he forgotten. God Almighty made all people. There is not a day but that some are coming into, and others going out of the world. The Great King told me the path should never be crooked, but open for every one to pass and repass. As we all live in one land, I hope that we shall all live as one people.”
Peace was formally ratified, and both expressed the hope that it might last as long as the sun would shine and the rivers run.
In 1773, the population of Tennessee was found to have increased to a very considerable extent. In the succeeding year a war broke out with the northern Indians, residing across the Ohio, and terminated by their suing for peace. The year 1776 is rendered memorable by a formidable invasion of the Cherokees, whom the British had incited to attack the infant settlements. A strong force from Virginia and the Carolinas soon dispersed the Indians, and peace was again restored. When the constitution of North Carolina was formed, in 1776, Tennessee (then the District of Washington) sent deputies to the convention. In the southern campaign of 1780, at the brilliant exploit at King's Mountain, when the British troops under Col. Ferguson, were either taken or slain, the Tennessee settlers, under Col. Sevier, bore a most important share in the conflict. Col. Sevier's command was 240 men, all well mounted and nearly all armed with a
Deckhard
rifle.
* This rifle was remarkable for the precision and distance of its shot. It was generally three feet six inches long, weighed about seven pounds, and ran about seventy bullets to the pound of lead. It was so called from Deekhard, the maker, in Lancaster, Pa.
55
“The camp on Watauga, on the twenty-fifth of September, presented an animated spectacle. With the exception of a few colonists on the distant Cumberland, the entire military force of what is now Tennessee was assembled at the Sycamore Shoals. Scarce a single gunman remained, that day, at his own house. The young, ardent and energetic had generally enrolled themselves for the campaign against Ferguson. The less vigorous and more aged, were left, with the inferior guns, in the settlements for their protection against the Indians; but all had attended the rendezvous. The old men were there to counsel, encourage and stimulate the youthful soldier, and to receive, from the colonels, instructions for the defense of the stations during their absence. Others were there to bring, in rich profusion, the products of their farms, which were cheerfully furnished gratuitously and without stint, to complete the outfit of the expedition. Gold and silver they had not, but subsistence and clothing, and equipment and the fiery charger— anything the frontier-man owned, in the cabin, the held or the range, was offered, unostentatiously, upon the altar of his country. The wife and the sister were there, and, with a suppressed sigh, witnessed the departure of the husband and the brother. And there, too, were the heroic mothers, with a mournful but noble pride, to take a fond farewell of their gallant sons.
The sparse settlements of this frontier had never before seen assembled together a concourse of people so immense and so evidently agitated by great excitement. The large mass of the assembly were volunteer riflemen, clad in the home-spun of their wives and sisters, and wearing the hunting shirt so characteristic of the back-woods soldiery, and not a few of them the moccasins of their own manufacture. A few of the officers were better dressed, but all in citizens' clothing. The
At the peace these brave men again sought their mountain homes and devoted themselves to the improvement of their settlements. In 1782, commissioners were appointed by government to explore
Davidson county
(at that time quite extensive), and report which part was best for the payment of the bounty promised to officers and soldiers of North Carolina during the Revolution. A settlement had been made in this part of Tennessee, by Col. Robertson and some two or three hundred followers, at Nashville, in 1780, and the county received its name in honor of Gen. Davidson, who fell in opposing Cornwallis in 1781. The military warrants were made out, many of the officers and soldiers came to this section to secure and settle their lands, and many purchasers from various states of the Union became settlers.
In 1785, the inhabitants of the counties of Sullivan, Washington, and Greene, lying directly west of the Alleghany Mountains, feeling the inconveniences of having a government so remote as that of North Carolina, framed a constitution, elected their governor, and erected themselves into an independent state by the name of the
State of Franklin.
This premature state was to comprehend “all that tract of country which lies between the mountains and the
suck
or
whirl
of Tennessee River.” The legislature of the new state met at Jonesboro': John Sevier was elected governor; a judiciary system was established, David Campbell, Joshua Gist, and John Anderson were appointed judges. These proceedings occasioned great confusion and warm disputes, which continued until 1788, when the thoughts of independency were relinquished and tranquillity was restored. The territory was finally ceded to the United States in 1790, and a territorial government was established under the name of the “Territory of the United States south-west of the river Ohio.” William Blount, of North Carolina, was appointed the first governor.
In 1794, Tennessee was constituted a separate territory, the general assembly of which met at Knoxville. In 1795, the inhabitants of the territory numbered 77,262, of which number 10,613 were slaves. The next year, 1796, a convention met at Knoxville and formed a constitution for state government, and the name of
Tennessee
was adopted for the new state. The constitution was approved by congress, June 1, 1796, and Tennessee entered the Union. John Sevier was elected the first governor. William Blount and William Cocke were elected the first senators to congress. The first constitution remained unaltered for about forty years. The present constitution was adopted in 1835.
Tennessee is bounded N. by Kentucky and Virginia, S. by Georgia, Alabama and Mississippi, E. by North Carolina, and W. by Arkansas and Missouri, from which it is separated by the Mississippi River. It extends east and west between 81° 37′ and 90° 28′ W. long., and between 35° and 36° 35′ N. lat. Its mean length from east to west is 400 miles, breadth, 114. Its area is computed at about 45,000 square miles.
The state is usually considered as being divided into three nominal divisions,East
,
West
, and
Middle Tennessee.
East Tennessee, bordering on North Carolina, is an elevated region, containing numerous lofty and picturesque ranges of the Cumberland and Laurel Mountains, and other conspicuous branches of the Alleghany range, mostly covered to their summits with noble forests. West Tennessee, between the Mississippi and Tennessee Rivers, has generally an undulating surface, though some parts are quite level, with a light but productive soil, producing large quantities of cotton. Middle Tennessee is uneven and hilly, though not mountainous, and the lands are of good quality.
Tennessee is watered in various directions by important streams. The Mississippi washes its Western borders; the Tennessee crosses the state between Middle and Western Tennessee; the Cumberland has its principal course in this state; the Holston, Clinch, French, Broad, and Hiwassee, are branches of the Tennessee. The mineral resources of the state are very great, consisting of iron, coal, copper, lead, etc. Indian corn, tobacco and cotton are the principal staples. In 1851, at the World's Fair, the wool of Tennessee was awarded the premium of the “Golden Fleece.”
* “The mountain district of Tennessee, North Carolina and Virginia combine every chief feature which adapts a country to the raising of sheep on a large scale. The warm and sheltered valleys where little snow ever falls, afford a winter home for the flocks, where little defense from storms and cold is required, and where much of their food can be obtained in the fields and woodlands; while the hill slopes and mountain sides will afford precisely the kind of pasture most conducive to the health of the animals and the excellence of the fleece. In such a climate, and in such circumstances, the finest and softest wools of the world are produced. In proof of this, it may be stated that at the World's Fair, in London, when all the world was engaged in competition, the wool which received the prize as the best which the nations then could boast, was sheared from the flocks which had been reared in this very region, on the hills of East Tennessee. Mark R. Cockrell, Esq., an extensive wool grower of Tennessee, attended the World's Fair in London, in 1851, and presented some of his wool in competition with the wools of Europe. The contest, under the rules, was between countries, not individuals. The premium of the ‘Golden Fleece’ was awarded to Tennessee. The legislature of that state, the winter following, passed a resolution tendering Mr. C. its thanks, and ordering the preparation of a gold medal, to be given to him as a token of respect. On its presentation he said, ‘Germany Spain, Saxony and Silesia were there; the competition was honorable, strong and fair. Nature gave me the advantage in climate, but the noble lords and worthy princes of Europe did not know it until we met in the Crystal Palace, in London, before millions of spectators. While their flocks were housed six months in the year, to shelter them from the snow of a high latitude,
mine were roaming over the green pastures of Tennessee, warmed by the genial influence of a southern sun—the fleece thus softened and rendered oily by the warmth, and green food producing a fine, even fiber.’”—
Prof. Christy's Report.
The mountain regions of this section, elevated above the
frost belt, it is believed, possess the very best climate and soil east of the Rocky Mountains, for the production of fruit, particularly the peach and the grape. On the elevations grapes and peaches are as certain a crop, as is corn generally elsewhere. In some instances, European grapes have, for twenty years, borne twenty consecutive crops, without mildew or rot, and producing a third more than in France. The dried poaches of Tennessee and North Carolina have an unrivaled reputation in northern markets. In time this will probably become the great wool growing, wine producing, and fruit raising region of the Atlantic states. Population, capital, and improved railroad facilities are alone wanting to soon bring this consummation. The great tide of emigration has now nearly reached the broad belt of arid land that stretches for hundreds of miles across the continent, east of the Rocky Mountains. When its streams are diverted southward, to the beautiful climate of the south-western Alleghanies, we shall see this noble country rapidly developing its natural riches to the hand of industry and enterprise.
Northern view of Nashville.
The view shows the appearance of Nashville as it is entered upon the Louisville and Nashville Railroad. On the left is seen the suspension bridge over Cumberland River, with part of the steamboat landing and the steam printing establishment of the Methodist Episcopal Church South. The State House appears on the extreme right.
Nashville,
City, port of entry, county seat for Davidson county, and capital of the state of Tennessee, is situated on the left bank of Cumberland River, at the head of steamboat navigation, about 200 miles, following the
The city was originally laid out upon a ground plot of 200 acres, but it has long since overgrown these limits. There is a public square on the summit of the hights rising immediately from the river. Here is the court house, the market house, and other fine buildings. There are 9 banks, some 10 or 12 newspapers and periodicals, and 19 churches, some of which are elegant buildings. Population in 1860, 23,715. Great attention is paid to the subject of education in Nashville. The
University of Nashville
, founded in 1806, is one of the most important institutions in the western states, and its libraries contain 10,000 volumes: its medical school has a high reputation. The Nashville Female Seminary is a highly respectable institution, and has sent out a greater number of graduates who have taken a high position, than any institution of the kind west of the mountains. The lunatic asylum is a large and commodious building, three stories high. The penitentiary, or state prison, is located in the western suburbs. The wire suspension bridge, which spans the Cumberland River here, was constructed at an expense of $100,000.
In 1779; Capt. James Robertson, with two or three hundred others, left the Holston country for the purpose of making a settlement at French Lick, where, it appears, that some Frenchmen had a station or settlement as early as 1764. This was on the spot where the city of Nashville is now built. Capt. Robertson's company brought with them a good many horses and cattle. Their route lay through the Kentucky country, and as there were no roads, and being impeded by snow storms, they did not arrive at the French Lick until Jan., 1780. This was the
“Cold Winter,”
so universally known throughout this country. The snow was of great depth and continued for an extraordinary. length of time, so that it was with much difficulty that men and beasts could travel, and they suffered greatly in obtaining food, or died of want and cold combined. The company drove their stock over the Cumberland River on the ice, and where Nashville now stands, began to build a fort.
State House of Tennessee, Nashville.
The State House, a most noble and magnificent structure, stands on the highest ground of the city, one hundred and seventy-five feet above the river. Its dimensions are 240 by 135 feet, and cost about a million of dollars.
In Dec. 1779, two companies of settlers embarked from East Tennessee for the French Lick. Col. John Donelson, with one company, departed from Fort Henry on the Holston River, Captain John Blackmore left with the other from Blackmore's Fort, on Clinch River. A large number of the men, who went through by land with Capt. Robertson, sent their families around by water with Col. Donelson. These two companies united at the mouth of Clinch River, forming a flotilla of about forty boats, nearly all of which had two families on board. On the 12th of March they reached Muscle Shoals; on the 20th, they arrived at the mouth of the Tennessee, and sailing up the Ohio, they entered the Cumberland, and arrived at the place of their destination on the 24th of April, 1780. This voyage of
four months
, in view of the coldness of the season, the frequent attacks from the Indians, and the want of provisions, was one of the most remarkable achievements in the settlement of the country.
After the settlers arrived several forts, or
stations
, were built in various
“In the month of April, a large force of Cherokees advanced with the determination, doubtless, of driving the whole body of settlers from the country. During the previous year they had been so successful in breaking up and burning the forts, that they could not bear the idea of yielding their favorite hunting ground without a deadly struggle. The plan of attack decided against the settlement at the Bluff was well laid. They approached secretly under cover of the night. One party took its stand at the branch between Broad street and College Hill, while the other stood about half-way between that point and the fort. Soon after daylight, a few of them, advancing, fired upon the fort and then retreated up the river. Immediately eighteen or twenty men mounted their horses and started in pursuit —having not the least idea of the large force in their vicinity. They followed the retreating party up the river, passing by those lying between the branch and the fort, and wholly unconscious of the ambuscade. Having arrived at the branch, they were attacked by the Indians, and dismounting, they returned the fire with great effect. At this juncture, the Indians lying between the branch and the fort extended their line to the river, for the purpose of cutting off the retreat of the settlers. The poor fellows soon saw their dreadful situation, having to contend with a hundred or more savages. About this time the horses became frightened and ran off, going south of the enemy's line, between the branch and the fort, and a number of the Indians pursued them by the fort to the French Lick. At the same time the dogs, hearing the firing of guns, started off in the direction of the sound; and having been trained to fight the Indians, they fell upon the remainder of them who had not gone in pursuit of the horses, so that they had as much as they could do to fight the dogs. If it had not been for this occurrence, it is probable that not one of the poor fellows would ever have reached the fort. As it was, they were closely pursued. An Indian overtook Ned Swanson not far from the fort, and had his gun right against him, but fortunately it missed fire. Swanson seized the gun by the muzzle, and in the struggle the priming was lost out of the pan. Then the Indian clubbed the gun, and knocking Swanson down, was in the act of tomahawking him. Old Mr. Buchanan, the father of Major Buchanan seeing the dreadful situation of Swanson, rushed from the fort with his rifle, fired, and killed the Indian, and then brought the rescued man into the fort Isaac Lucas got within a short distance of the fort when his thigh was broken, and an Indian rushed up to scalp him. Fortunately, his gun was loaded, and lying upon the ground, he fired, and the Indian fell dead by his side. Great efforts were made by the Indians to drag off their slain warrior, and get the scalp of Lucas. But from the fort they poured death upon them, and finally drove them off and brought Lucas in from his perilous situation. In this battle, the Indians killed Peter Gill, John Kesenger, Alexander Buchanan, George Kennedy, Zachariah White, Capt. Leiper, and J. Kennedy; and they wounded James Menefee, Kasper Mansker, Isaac Lucas, Joseph Moonshaw, and others. The horses, saddles, and bridles, fell into the hands of the Indians. The number of Indians killed could never be ascertained. The one killed by Lucas could not be carried off by his comrades, and the dead body of another was found on College Hill; and beside these there were doubtless many others killed who were taken off by the warriors. The Indians withdrew at ten o'clock. That night another attack was made upon the fort, supposed to be by a party who had not arrived in time to partake in the battle of that morning. The men in the, fort loaded a swivel, and giving the party a broadside, made them leave in haste. But hostilities still continued, and during that year the Indians killed William Hood, Peter Renfroe, Jacob Freeland, and many others.
This year, 1781, was marked by the loss of many valuable men. 1782 was commenced with violent attacks upon the settlers. They were so harassed that they could not plant their corn nor hunt game without exposing themselves to the danger of being waylaid and killed by the savages. The colony, though their number had been increased during the past year by the arrival of a few more emigrants,
There being no laws instituted by the state for the colony, the settlers, soon after their arrival at the Bluff, appointed trustees, and signed a covenant binding themselves to conform to the judgment and decisions of these officers, in whom they vested the powers of government. The trustees acted both as judiciary and executive, and their action in these respects gave general satisfaction. The founder of the colony, Capt. Robertson, was, of course, one of the trustees, and he was the first officer to celebrate the rites of matrimony. The persons married by him were Capt. Leiper and his wife. The first child born in the country was John Saunders, and the second was Anna Wells. The first child born in Nashville was the son of Capt. Robertson—the venerable Dr. Felix Robertson, now living in Nashville.”—
Carr's Early Times in Middle Tennessee.
In 1783, the legislature of North Carolina erected the county of Davidson, naming it in honor of Col. Davidson, who fell at Catawba, while trying to check the progress of the British troops. The legislature also established a town at the Bluff, calling it
Nashville
, in honor of Col. Francis Nash, of North Carolina, who fell at the head of his regiment at the battle of Germantown.
“At the same time, the legislature appointed the civil and military officers of the county of Davidson. The first court was held in October, 1783. Isaac Bledsoe, Samuel Barton, Francis Prince, and Isaac Lindsey, were ‘sworn in’ as magistrates. The oldest man had the oath administered to him by the one next in seniority, and then he administered the oath to the others. Andrew Ewing was elected clerk; Daniel Williams, sheriff; Samuel Barton, entry-taker; and Francis Prince, register. The court then nominated constables for the several stations: Samuel Mason, at Mauldin's and Kilgore's; James McCain, at Mansker's; Stephen Ray, at Eaton's; Edward Swanson, at Freeland's; John McAdams, at Nashville. The court next proceeded to select a place for the building of a court-house and jail; and it was agreed that, in view of the situation of the settlement, it should be at Nashville. It was ordered that the court-house should be eighteen feet square, with a shed twelve feet in width, extending the length of the house and that it should be furnished with a bar and benches fit for the sitting of the court. It was ordered that the jail should be fourteen feet square, of hewn logs twelve inches square, for the walls and loft, and the floor also, unless the building should be upon a rock; the work to be done at the lowest price.
The following military officers were ‘sworn in:’ Anthony Bledsoe, colonel; Isaac Bledsoe, first major; Samuel Barton, second major; Kasper Mansker, first captain; George Freeland, second captain; John Buchanan, third captain; James Lord, fourth captain; William Ramsay, Jonathan Drake, Ambrose Mauldin, and Peter Lides, lieutenants; William Collins and Elmore Douglass, ensigns.”
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the cemetery at the southern border of the city:
Sevier,
the noble and successful defender of the early settlers of Tennessee. The first, and for twelve years Governor, Representative in Congress, Commissioner in many Treaties with the Indians. He served his country forty years faithfully and usefully, and in that service died. An admirer of patriotism and merit, unrequited, erects this.
This monumental slab, sacred to the memory of the late
Col. John Tipton,
of Washington Co., in the state of Tennessee, was placed here by the members and officers of the 19th
How sleep the brave, who sink to rest,
By all their Country's wishes blest,
When Spring, with dewy fingers cold,
Returns to deck their hallowed mould,
She there shall deck a sweeter sod,
Than Fancy's feet have ever trod.
To the memory of
Duncan Robertson,
a native of Scotland, and a resident of the United States forty-three years, who died at Nashville the 1st of May, 1833, in the 63d year of his age, the citizens of Nashville have erected this monument. His loss will be long and severely felt, and his place will not soon or easily be supplied. Always best and first in every work of philanthropy and beneficence; to do good to his follow men seemed to be the great object of his life. In the dungeon of the forsaken prisoner, at the bedside of the wretched and friendless, and in the abode of poverty and distress, he was almost constantly found. In imitation of his Divine Master, he literally went about doing good. No personal sacrifice was too great for him to make, when the calls of benevolence demanded it. He was not only willing, but active and efficient in every work of charity and disinterested beneficence. Such a man is among the wonders of the age, a blessing to any community, and his memory should be embalmed in the grateful recollections of his cotomporaries, and preserved for the gratitude and veneration of posterity.
In memory of
Richard Claiborne Napier,
a native of Virginia, for the last thirty-five years a citizen of this state, well known as one of the oldest Iron Masters of Middle Tennessee. He departed this life on the 20th of March, 1834, in the 61st year of his age.
In memory of
James Campbell,
a member of the Nashville Bar, born in Washington, Va., the 19th of Jan., 1794. In 1819, he removed to Winchester, Tenn., where he commenced his professional career, and continued to reside until 1834, when he removed to Nashville, where he died Aug. 20th, 1848, in the 55th year of his age. He was among the first in the first rank of his profession. He was exemplary as a man and lawyer. He was distinguished as a legislator, and Tennessee is indebted to him for many of her most admirably drafted and eminently useful laws.
Sacred to the memory of
Felix Grundy,
born in Berkely Co., Vir., Sept. 11th, A.D. 1777, died in Nashville, Tenn., Dee. 19th. A.D. 1840. Educated for the profession of the law, he commenced his career in Kentucky, to which State, then a portion of Virginia, his parents emigrated in his infancy. In 1799, having rapidly risen to distinction, he was a member of the
Convention
to revise and amend the
Constitution
, was subsequently, for several years, a prominent member of the
Legislature
, and was finally elevated to the bench of the
Supreme Judicial Tribunal
of the State, as
Chief Justice.
In 1807, he removed to
Nashville
, Ten., where, for more than twenty years, he stood unrivaled as an advocate at the Bar. In 1811, he was elected a Member of the House of
Representatives in Congress.
In 1819, after having voluntarily retired from Congress, he was elected a Member of the Legislature, and in 1820, under an appointment from that body, he acted as
Commissioner
on the part of Tennessee, in finally settling the disputed boundary between that State and Kentucky. In 1829, he was elected to the Senate of the United States; in 1838, he was appointed to a seat in the Cabinet of Mr. Van Buren, as Attorney General of the United States, but in 1839, in compliance with the wishes of the
Legislature
, he resigned the latter office, and was again elected
Senator
of the
United States
, which office he held at the time of his death. These high honors and just earthly distinctions he bore meekly, and calmly resigned when summoned by his Creator to this Sepulchre, which is erected as a humble tribute to his worth, by those to whom he was best known and most endeared in the kind relations of Husband, Father, Friend, and as a devout and humble Christian.
To the memory of
Gen. William Carroll,
born in Pennsylvania, March 3d, 1788, died March 22d, 1844. He was distinguished in the battles of Talladega, Emuckfaw, Enotochopoe, Tehopeka, and New Orleans, and was chief magistrate of Tennessee for twelve successive years. As a gentleman, he was modest, intelligent and courteous; as an officer, energetic, gallant and daring; as a Statesman, firm, wise and just. To commemorate their
Terry H. Cahal,
born in the State of Virginia, Sept. 4th, 1802, died near Nashville, Ten., April 15th, 1851. Endowed by nature with great talents, and gifted with ambition equal to these powers, though born in want and obscurity, he triumphed over every disadvantage, and rising in an honorable career to eminence and high distinction, he adorned and illustrated his life by all the success which Genius, added to virtue, courage and perseverance, never fails to achieve. A member of the last State Convention, twice a Senator in our General Assembly, and once Speaker of that body. He was second in command of a Volunteer Regiment in the first Florida war, and being afterward elected Chancellor of Tennessee, he died discharging the duties of his exalted station.
The following is the inscription on the monument standing in the front yard of the Polk mansion, on Vine-street in the city of Nashville:
“The mortal remains of
James Knox Polk
are resting in the vault beneath. He was born in Mecklenburgh Co., North Carolina, and emigrated with his father, Samuel Folk, to Tennessee 1806. The beauty of virtue was illustrated in his life: the excellence of Christianity was exemplified in his death. His life was devoted to the public service. He was elevated successively to the first places in the State and Federal Government: a A member of the General Assembly; a member of Congress; and chairman of the most important Congressional Committees; Speaker of the House of Representative Governor of Tennessee, and President of the United States. By his public policy he defined, established and extended the boundaries of his Country. He planted the Laws of the American Union on the shores of the
Pacific.
His influence and his counsels tended to organize the National Treasury on the principles of the Constitution, and apply the rules of Navigation, Trade and Industry. ames Knox Polk, 10th President of the U. S., born Nov. 2, 1795, died June 15, 1849.”
Mansion and Monument of President Polk.
Nashville was the point of rendezvous for the
Nickajack Campaign
, an important event in the history of Tennessee. The annexed account is from Howe's
“Great West,”
It was derived by Mr. Howe, in the spring of 1850, from the lips of Col. James Collier, who was then residing in Xenia, Ohio, and who was one of the spies employed on the expedition:
“The Cherokee nation generally respected the treaty of Holston, made near the site of Knoxville, in July 1791. A minority only were dissatisfied with it, and refused to acquiesce in its terms. Separating from the rest, they settled on the Chicamauga, and became known as the Chicamauga Indians. From this branch of the tribe mainly originated all the depredations and murders subsequently committed upon the settlements in Tennessee, a fact which appears to have been entirely lost sight of by writers of that period.
A branch of the Chicamaugas settled the Nickajack towns. They were three in number, and situated on the south bank of the Tennessee, about fifty miles above the site of Huntsville. The lower town, name not recollected, contained about twenty houses; two miles above stood Nickajack, containing about two hundred dwellings, and Running Water, which was larger still, was nearly five miles above Nickajack. These villages indicated considerable civilization: the houses were principally built of round logs, and covered with split boards and fine bark: within, at the end of each dwelling, was a fire-place. The council-house, which was at Running Water, was a regular circle, of sixty or seventy feet diameter, with a conical roof running up to a point, and the whole was covered with bark. The towns were surrounded by potatoe and corn-fields, peach-orchards, and melonpatches. Their sites were pleasant, and that of Running Water of unusual natural beauty.
In the year 1794, the depredations of the Nickajack Indians had excited so much alarm, that some of the leading men of the country saw the necessity of punishing them. Col. William Whitley, of Lincoln county, Kentucky, whose residence was near the Crab Orchard settlement, originated the plan of the invasion of their towns. After Gen. Scott had raised a force to join Wayne, Whitley put this plan into execution, corresponding for the purpose with Gen. James Robertson, of Middle Tennessee, and Col. John Orr, of East Tennessee; the latter of whom commanded at the time a company of U. S. Rangers, under the general control of William Blount, governor of the Southwest Territory. Their preparatory measures were conducted with great secresy, for it was feared that Gov. Blount, had it come to his knowledge, would have frustrated the expedition, under the apprehension that the friendly Cherokees would have suffered.
On the 20th of August, a day memorable as that of Wayne's victory, Whitley left home for Nashville, the point of rendezvous, with a small body of Kentuckians, which, by the time they had arrived at the borders of the state, bad augmented to one hundred and twenty. At Nashville they were joined by Orr, with his company of Rangers, numbering sixty-two men. In a few days their ranks were increased to six hundred men, all volunteers. About the 6th of September, the expedition left Nashville, and the day after organized by the choice of Col. Whitley as commandant, with Col. John Orr and Col. John Montgomery next under him. Richard Fennelson, a half-breed, acted as guide.
At that time I was about twenty years of age, having come on by invitation from Col. Whitley, who resided in my vicinity. Upon organizing, Alex. McFarland and Jesse Gray, two old hunters and Indian fighters, were selected as spies, who, in turn, being allowed to select a third, chose me. We three daily kept in advance, looking out for signs, and at night returning to camp. The troops were mainly on horseback, and attired in hunting-shirts. Their provisions were principally bacon and corn-meal, some of it parched. At night the horses were hoppled out to grass, and the men lay on their blankets in the open air.
On the night of the 11th, the army arrived at a beautiful spring, the largest I ever saw, on what I believe is the site of Huntsville. We were then fifty miles below the crossing place of the Tennessee, in the vicinity of the Nickajack towns. At midnight of the 12th, the troops reached the crossing place. Great confusion prevailed, for as the night was very dark, many of the men in consequence had become deadly sick from riding on horseback. The only means which we brought with us to cross the stream, which was high and wide from recent rains, were two ox-hide boats. These had been transported on horseback, and being stiff and unwieldy, were first soaked, and then stretched on poles and launched. They were square, box-like in shape, and held each from two to four men. Several rafts were constructed on the spot.
By sunrise, two hundred and forty men having succeeded in crossing it was thought best to push on, leaving the others, who did not cross at all, and were consequently not participators in the scenes about to be related.
After proceeding about five miles, they came into the vicinity of the lower and smaller town, where fifteen men were placed in ambush until they heard the attack above, while the main body, making a detour, marched on. When in sight of Nickajack, they formed for the attack in three divisions, the right, center, and left,
When the melee was about over, several of us tried to shoot an Indian who was escaping in a canoe down the river. He was lying nearly flat, with his arms only showing over the sides, vigorously paddling for life, and our shots failed; but Col. Whitley coming up, said, ‘let me try.’ I watched his shot, and instantly saw the blood spout out of his shoulder. Subsequently Joseph Brown swam out to the canoe, and as he was approaching, the Indian entreated him to spare his life, ‘for,’ said he, ‘I'm a Cherokee.’ Brown, who had been two years a prisoner at Nickajack, and understood their language, inquired, ‘what were you doing at Nickajack?’ ‘To visit some friends,’ was the reply. Brown then tomahawked him.
I was amused at an incident that I witnessed between a large, powerful squaw and the famous Joe Logston. She had secreted herself in the bush. Joe, on attempting to take her prisoner, encountered most furious resistance. She fought like a tigress, while he, disdaining to resort to blows, had great difficulty in overcoming her.
Collingsworth, one of our men, related to me an affecting incident. Entering one of the houses, he saw an Indian mother lying dead on the floor, over whose corpse was crawling an infant of ten or twelve months old, with its bowels hanging out from a wound in the abdomen. He was horrified at the sight, and for a moment debated with himself what was best to be done; then deciding as an act of mercy, he put his rifle to its head, and blew out its brains.
At the lower town, those in ambush saw a. beautiful Indian maiden beating hominy in a mortar outside of a cabin. In a few moments she was joined by a young man, probably her lover, who placed his arms around her waist, playfully slung her about, and then assisted her with the pestle. While engaged in this sort of dalliance and unsuspicious of danger, the firing was heard at Nickajack, and then the party here fired, and the Indian lover fell a corpse beside his dusky sweetheart. The maiden was captured, but the party finding resistance likely to be desperate, retreated to Nickajack.
Immediately after shooting the Indian in the canoe, Whitley said to the group around him, that they must proceed without delay to the upper town, lest the Indians might make a stand at the Gap, midway between the villages, and prevent their passage. Starting with from fifteen to twenty men, they hastened toward Running Water. A few Indians were in ambush at the Gap; but after the exchange of a few shots, the latter retreated with slight loss. Being joined at the Gap by more men, the party, among, whom I was one, numbering less than forty in all, proceeded to Running Water. As we neared the town, the Indians were discovered in great numbers escaping across the river in their canoes, and on our arrival there, we found it entirely deserted, and nothing was left for us to commit their dwellings to the flames. To prevent their being tracked by the dogs, the Indians, on leaving, shut them in their cabins, and when they were burnt, they, filled the air with their howlings.
Our troops recrossed the river at a late hour the same night, and on the 14th commenced our return march. When in the barrens of Green River, we learned the news of Wayne's victory from a party of Chickasaws.
Our loss in this campaign was trifling, we having two men wounded, viz: Luke Anderson, slightly in the leg, and S. Donaldson, in the heel; he was a brother-in-law of Gen. Jackson, and was supposed to have been shot by our own men. We killed about one hundred forty Indians, and brought in seventeen prisoners, all females except two boys, They were subsequently exchanged for white prisoners. The results of this campaign were important. It stopped the murders by the Indians, and in a few months thereafter, the Chicamaugas sued for peace.”
Memphis,
city, is on the east bank of the Mississippi, beautifully situated on a bluff some twenty to thirty feet above the highest floods, 191 miles W.S.W. from Nashville; 420 below St. Louis, and 781 miles above New Orleans. It lies on one of the only three bluffs on the Lower Mississippi, where it is
possible
, without great expense for artificial works, to build a large town. It has great commercial advantages, and is on the line of important railroads, built or contemplated, in almost every direction. Memphis, since 1850, when its population was 6,427, has taken an astonishing stride in commercial prosperity, it being now the most growing and prosperous city of the south-west, and second in importance only to New Orleans. It has a superior system of free schools, and a large number of mercantile and manufacturing establishments. Connected with the rich cotton growing region of North Mississippi, it is a great point for the shipment of cotton. Population is about 35,000.
View of Memphis from the West bank of the Mississippi.
The Exchange, or Court House building, is seen on the left; the principal Steambout Landing on the extreme right. The front row of mercantile buildings appear on the summit of the Bluff. The view show the city as seen from the Memphis and Little Rock Railroad, on the Arkansas side of the Mississippi.
The adjacent country is one of the most beautiful and extensive bodies of tillable land contiguous to the Mississippi River, between the mouth of the Ohio and New Orleans. It is elevated, dry and level, possessing a fertile and productive soil, and extending east, north-east, south and south-east for nearly one hundred miles. Corn, cotton, wheat, and tobacco, can be cultivated to great advantage.
As early as 1736, the Bluff on which Memphis now stands, was, on account of its superior advantages, selected by the French as a suitable position for a garrison. It appears, however, to have been inhabited by uncivilized Indians and wild beasts, in 1782. In 1783, the Spanish government directed W. H. Gayoso, then acting governor of the Territory of Louisiana, to take steps for the occupation of this point. The following historical items are extracted from Rainey's Memphis City Directory for 1855-6:
“The Indians manifesting a disposition to receive the officers of the Spanish Government, Gov. Gayoso came up with a sufficient number of troops and built Fort St. Fernando, on the bluff, at the mouth of Wolf River, the site of which is now covered by a portion of the Navy Yard. The Spanish continued in occupation of this garrison, until the ratification of the treaty by which Louisiana was ceded to the United States Government, and 33 degrees of north latitude established as the boundary line between the two governments.
Soon after this, Gen. Pike (then Lieut. Pike), was sent by the government of the United States, with troops, to occupy Fort St. Fernando, and the Spanish troops evacuating it, crossed the river and established Camp ‘Lesperance (afterward called Camp Hope), at or near the termination of the Military Road. Gen. Wilkinson came on soon after Lieut. Pike arrived, and dismantled Fort St. Fernando, and established Fort Pickering.
In 1783, the government of the United States granted to John Rice the tract of land on which Memphis stands, who devised it to Elisha Rice, and he sold it to John Overton.
In 1819, John Overton sold one undivided half of the tract to Gen. Andrew Jackson and Gen. James Winchester, and these three (Overton, Jackson and Winchester), laid out the town of Memphis.”
The first public sale of lots was made in 1820, at which front lots were deemed high at one hundred dollars each, and back lots in proportion. The principal business of the place was confined to the Indian trade for several years afterward, and the new town attracted but little attention until after 1830, in which year it was but a village of 704 inhabitants.
“In 1841, Congress appointed Commissioners to select and survey a site for a Navy Yard upon the Mississippi River, who, after a toilsome examination of its whole length, from New Orleans to the mouth of the Ohio, reported the position at the mouth of Wolf, as being the most suitable one they could find for the purpose; and, at the session of 1842-3, Congress passed a bill for the erection of a Navy Yard at Memphis.
The principal portion of the ground which the Navy Yard occupies, has been formed by deposites of sand and mud from the river, since 1830, at which time the main steamboat landing was at the upper end of the Yard.
In 1841, Memphis extended very little below Poplar-street, there being, at that time, only one brick house south of that street. In fact, as late as that year, the land upon which the Gayoso House now stands was an old field, surrounded by an open wood, where the youth of the city were in the habit of shooting squirrels and other small game.
In 1829, the tract of land embraced in the limits of South Memphis, was sold, by R. Fearn, the proprietor, to a company, who laid it out into streets, alleys, and lots, upon the same plan of the old town; the principal streets, Shelby and Main, running parallel with the river, and in continuation of Front and Main-streets of Memphis.
In the years 1842-3, a company erected the Gayoso House, one of the most spacious and elegant hotels in the western country, which was opened in 1843, by Mr. Henrie, previously of the ‘Henrie House,’ of Cincinnati. It was not until 1844 that any business of consideration was transacted below Madison-street.
The county seat of Shelby having been removed from Memphis to Raleigh, in 1827, with a view of centralizing it, it was not until 1847 that there was any attention paid to the erection of a public edifice. In that year, Mr. Bickford, being aided by the City Council, commenced the erection of a large and beautiful building on Front-row, extending from Poplar to Exchange-streets, known as the Exchange Building, within which is arranged a most magnificent City Hall, one hundred anti and six by fifty-two feet, besides several smaller though spacious halls for other public purposes; such as the holding of courts, a Medical Hall, Council Chamber and Mayor's Office.
Up to 1852, the business of the town was, almost entirely, confined to the trade which the different craft navigating the Mississippi River afforded—the sparse settlements in the interior barely raising enough for their support. In the fall of
At Fort Pickering there are some beautiful Indian mounds, around which the imagination delights to linger. These melancholy relics of the red man—the first owners of the soil of this great country—are clothed with much interest and speculative legendary lore. Upon one of these mounds, now the property of the state, a monument is one day to be erected in honor of that great man, Gen. Andrew Jackson. The tribute is justly due him, by not only the people of this state, but the whole country.
The first preaching in Memphis took place on a Sunday morning, in the year 1822, in March. On the above day of that year, a flatboat was seen making for a landing at the Fourth Chickasaw Bluff, owing no doubt, to a sudden fog, which was becoming very dense, and which was considered very dangerous by the bold navigators of the ‘Father of Waters.’ The occurrence created considerable excitement among the inhabitants, and aroused great curiosity and desire to know what manner of strangers had come among them. Our informant says: “It was soon noised about that there was ‘a man of God’ on the boat. The village schoolmaster was appointed ‘a committee of one’ to wait upon and request him to hold forth to the ‘children of the wilderness.’”
The biblical individual in question, reveled in the cognomen of Elijah Coffey. He had translated the contents of the Holy Scriptures into his head, and when he opened his lips the Word was before the people. The venerable Elijah is still an inhabitant of earth and the city of Memphis, and may sometimes yet be seen hammering away for the benefit of perverse
soles.
He is one, of the ‘oldest inhabitants,’ sometimes alluded to by the newspapers, but which people have gotten into the habit of thinking of as a mythical personage.
The first meeting house was erected in 1826. The funds were raised by general contribution from all classes, without regard to sect. It was a humble edifice, and stood in Court Square. The first preacher was Mr. Blair, a missionary from the Chickasaw Nation.”
Knoxville
is situated on the north bank of Holston River, 4 miles below the junction of the French Broad River, 185 miles east from Nashville, and 204 from Lexington, Ky. It is quite a flourishing place, a central point of intersection of all the great railroads of the country, east, west, north and south. Fine marble quarries and iron ore abound in this section, and beds of bituminous coal on the line of the railroads. The river is navigable downward for steamboats at all seasons, and in the spring some 30 or 40 miles above to Dandridge. Few places possess such a variety of scenery as can be found within the limits of Knoxville, exhibiting on the banks of the Holston the wild and picturesque beauty of nature, the hills and valleys of the cultivated country, the manufacturing village, and the features of the city. Knoxville contains six churches, the county buildings, of which the jail, a castellated building, makes a striking appearance, the University buildings, and the State Deaf and Dumb Asylum. Population about 9,000. East Tennessee College, or University, is located on a commanding eminence, upward of 200 feet high, and about half a mile from the court house. This institution was founded in 1792.
Knoxville was first laid out by Gen. James White, the first patentee. East Knoxville was laid out by Moses White, his son, and at first was called Mechanicsburg. The west end of the town was laid out by Col. John Williams, and was for some time called Williamsburg. Gov. Blount's residence was on Barbara Hill, where the University buildings now stands. The hill received its name from
Barbara
, the daughter of the governor, who was
South-western view of Knoxville.
The view shows the appearance of Knoxville, descending the hill on the old country road in front of the University. Part of Cumberland-street is seen on the left; Main-street on the right; the Cupola of the Court House in the central part; Hampden Sidney Academy on the extreme left; the Female Institute on the right.
The building in which the first legislature met, is that known as the “Knoxville Hotel,” now standing at the corner of State and Cumberlandstreets: it is said to have been the first tavern erected in Tennessee. The house of the secretary, now owned by Mr. W. B. Smith, is in State-street, about 150 feet distant from the Hotel, and is said to have been the first house erected in Knoxville. The famous
“Holston Treaty
” with the Cherokee Nation, was held at the mouth of White Creek, on the banks of the Holston. The second dwelling was erected on the spot. Among the first settlers of Knoxville, were, James White, James King,—McLemee, Gov. Blount,
Knoxville Hotel.
In which met the first Legislature.
“Tradition says that Governor Blount received and entertained the chieftains and head warriors with signal attentions and marked ceremonials. The treaty ground was at the foot of Water-street, where the governor appeared in full dress. He wore a sword and military hat, and acted throughout the occasion the polite and accomplished gentleman, the dignified officer, and courteous negotiator. He remained seated near his marquee, under and surrounded by the tall trees which then shaded the banks of the Holston. His officers, civil and military, stood near him, uncovered and respectful. On this occasion, James Armstrong was
arbiter elegantiarum.
Behind the officials, in clusters and disorderly groups, stood strangers, attracted by the occasion, and the citizens of the immediate neighborhood. The soldiery were not present.
One of the interpreters, in Indian costume, introduced each chief to Armstrong, and he presented him to the Governor, announcing him by his aboriginal name. The delegation was large; forty-one of them being thus presented, in order according to their age, and not their rank Twelve hundred other Indians were upon the ground, among whom were some women and children. The Braves were decorated with eagle feathers on their heads, and other insignia of their rank, but were unarmed. The older chiefs and wise men wore only the common Indian dress.
After the presentation was over, Governor Blount speaking through the interpreter, opened the conference. During its continuance, the chiefs observed strictly the Indian Council House tactics—the speaker alone standing, while his colleagues sat upon the ground, in a circle around him, in respectful silence and with fixed attention. Squollecuttah, Kunoskeskie, Auquotague, and Nenetooyah, are said to have been the principal speakers. Chuquilatague seemed sullen, and, it is believed, signed the treaty reluctantly.
On the second of July, the conference was ended, and the treaty agreed to and signed. By its provisions, perpetual peace and friendship were restored and established between all the citizens of the United States, and the whole Cherokee nation of Indians, who acknowledged themselves to be under the protection of the United States, and of no other sovereign whatsoever.”
The first newspaper published in Tennessee was at Rogersville, by Geo. Roulstone, Nov. 5, 1791. It was, however, called
“The Knoxville Gazette,”
as it was intended to be issued at Knoxville, where Gov. Blount had determined to fix the seat of his government. In February of the next year, Knoxville was laid off by Col. White, and the Gazette was removed to it soon after. It was issued from a cabin on Gay-street, on a lot lately owned by Samuel Bell. Knoxville was named in honor of Maj. Gen. Knox, the secretary of war under President Washington.
“With Captain White, came his old neighbor from Iredell county, North Carolina, and comrade in arms, James Conner, the worthy ancestor of H. W. Conner, Esq., of Charleston, South Carolina. These two were the first to disturb the virgin soil, on which the future Knoxville was to be built. Tradition says, that the lot on which the First Presbyterian church now stands, was the place first cleared by them. Pounded corn was the only bread the first settlers used. Their rifles, which had been used in the war of the Revolution, procured them meat. Their cabin stood half a mile from the mouth of the creek, and on its west side, north of Mrs. Kennedy's orchard. This cabin afterward constituted one corner of White's Fort. Captain Crawford and others forted in it with him. A quadrangular plat of ground, containing a quarter of an acre, was chosen, on each corner of which was a strong cabin, but of less imposing appearance than Mr. White's, which was two stories high. Between these corners, stockades were placed, eight feet high
Amongst other emigrants, John Adair moved this year to his late residence in Knox county. He had been appointed commissary under North Carolina, to furnish provisions for the Cumberland Guards, and in the discharge of that trust, took his position on the extreme frontier. Adair's Station was erected at the same time with White's, about five miles north of it. The country began to be reached by wagons; settlers were gradually extending themselves west, and in quick succession, Well's, Bennett's, Byrd's, Hackett's, and Cavett's Stations were formed. Campbell's Station was settled by several emigrants of that name from Virginia, survivors of the gallant regiment which had signalized itself at King's Mountain. Of these the principal one was Col. David Campbell, who has left the savor of a good name wherever he was known.”
The following are towns of local note in different parts of Tennessee, of from 1,000 to 4,000 inhabitants each:
Chattanooga
is situated on the left or south bank of Tennessee River, in the south part of the state, and near the boundary lines of Georgia and Alabama, 150 miles S.E. of Nashville, 447 from Charleston, S. C., and 432 from Savannah, Geo. It is the center of several important railroads, both completed and progressing, which extend from Richmond, Charleston and Savannah on the Atlantic, to the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers. The place is, for the most part, situated in a narrow valley, in the midst of hills or mountainous elevations on almost every side.
Murfreesboro
', the county seat of Rutherford county, is on the line of the Nashville and Chattanooga Railroad, about 30 miles S.E. from Nashville. It was the capital of the state from 1817 to 1827. It contains several churches, the county buildings, an academy, and Union College, under the patronage of the Baptist denomination, established in 1848. Murfreesboro' is well laid out, in the midst of a fertile region of corn and tobacco land, and has a large trade in the products of an extensive and highly cultivated district.
Jonesboro
', the county seat of Washington county, about 100 miles north-easterly from Knoxville, contains about 700 inhabitants. It was laid off and established as a seat of justice for Washington county, in 1779, byLebanon
, capital of Wilson county, 30 miles east of Nashville, is distinguished as a seat of learning. Here is Cumberland University, a flourishing institution, founded in 1844, under the direction of the Cumberland Presbyterians; the law school attached to it was founded in 1847, and has more students than any other in the Union.
Shelbyville
, capital of Bedford county, is on Duck River, and at the end of a branch of the Nashville and Chattanooga Railroad, 59 miles S.S.E of Nashville.
McMinnville
, capital of Warren county, on the McMinnville and Manchester Railroad, 75 miles S.E. from Nashville.
Winchester
, capital of Franklin, on the Winchester and Alabama Railroad, 2 miles south from the Nashville and Chattanooga Railroad, and 84 miles S.E. of Nashville. A branch of the Winchester and Alabama Railroad connects this place with Huntsville, Alabama. The tunnel which has been cut in this county, through the Cumberland Mountains, for the Nashville and Chattanooga Railroad, is one of the most magnificent works of the kind in the Union, extending 2200 feet, mostly through solid rock.
Fayetteville
is the capital of Lincoln county, 73 miles S. by E. from Nashville.
Cleveland
, county seat of Bradley, on the East Tennessee and Georgia Railroad, 83 miles S.W. of Knoxville, is the shipping point for the rich copper mines of East Tennessee.
Athens
, capital of McMinn county, 154 miles E.S.E. of Nashville.
Greenville
, capital of Green county, is 66 miles E. by N. from Knoxville.
Columbia
, the capital of Maury county, is 41 miles S. by W. from Nashville, on the Tennessee and Alabama Railroad. It is the seat of Jackson College, founded in 1833, and also three female seminaries. The town is in a beautiful country, is noted for its educational institutions, has a fine trade, and was the residence of President Polk, previous to his election in 1844.
Gallatin
, county seat of Sumner, is 25 miles N.W. of Nashville.
Clarksville
is on the Cumberland, at the mouth of Red River, about 50 miles N.W. of Nashville: it is an important point for the manufacturing and shipping of tobacco, and a very flourishing business town.
Jackson
, capital of Madison county, in West Tennessee, is on the line of the Mobile and Ohio Railroad.
The COPPER MINES of East Tennessee are proving a most important element in the industry of the country. The famous
Ducktown mines
are in Polk county, forty miles easterly from the little thriving town of Cleveland, on the East Tennessee and Georgia Railroad, which is their point of shipment. The first mine was discovered in 1850, and, for want of roads, it was a long time before any ore could be sent away. The earlier shipments had to be made to Dalton, Georgia, a distance of seventy-four miles. Notwithstanding these inconveniences, there had been 14,291 tuns of copper ore shipped from these mines before the close of 1855, which was sold for more than a million of dollars. In September of 1855, seven of the mines produced ore to the value of $80,000, or at the rate of nearly a million of dollars per annum. The discovery of these mines led to great excitement and large expectations when it was known that the supply of copper throughout the world was not equal to the demand. Lands which were nearly quite worthless before the veins were discovered rose to a great value. In one instance, a tract of one hundred acres with a mine fully developed, sold for $460,000. A late visitor at Ducktown thus gives us his experience there:
The Ducktown copper mines have been opened in some low ranges of hills which seem to form the highest point in a broad, rolling plain, surrounded on all sides, apparently by lofty mountains, so distant as to be clothed with blue, and lifting many a bold peak far into the sky. The scene is one of great beauty, when seen as we first beheld it, at sunset, when the western crests of the far-away hills seemed to blaze in the sunbeams, while their bases lay in a shadow of the deepest blue, deepening every moment into the evening gloom, and the eastern ridges were yet purple with the fading glory of the day. Woodlands thinned by the ax, and spoiled of half their beauty, were near at hand, but at a little distance the dark, dense forest seemed to begin and stretch away almost unbroken to the distant mountains. The few clearings scarcely broke the continuity of the woods, and man seemed not much to have marred the beauty of the works of God. Before us, as we approached Ducktown, tall columns of smoke, from the furnaces, marked its situation, and this smoke was already settling into and filling to the brim the eastern valley.
It presents, however, the usual aspect of a mining village, and the buildings, perhaps, are all that circumstances require. The people had comfortable, though not elegant dwellings, plenty of proper food, schools for their children, and preaching on the Sabbath. There is here a population of about five thousand, many of whom are English and Scotch, with a few Irish and Welsh. The mines are mostly controlled by English capitalists, and no slaves are employed in them. There is, indeed, no mechanical work in which slaves as a body can be profitably used.
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, MISCELLANIES, ETC.
Gen. James Robertson
, one of the principal fathers of Tennessee, was a native of North Carolina, the patriarch of Watauga, and the founder of the Cumberland settlements. He emigrated to Watauga in 1769. “To his wife he was indebted for a knowledge of the alphabet, and for instruction how to read and write. To his Creator he was indebted for rich mental endowments—to himself for mental improvement. To his God he was indebted for that firmness and indomitable courage which the circumstances that surrounded him called so constantly into exercise. A detail of his acts in behalf of his country, and an enumeration of his sufferings by personal exposure in the wilderness, in the field of battle, in the besieged fort and the assaulted station, in losses of relatives and of private property, would fill a volume. Previous to and at the time of his death, Gen. Robertson was the United States agent at the Chickasaw nation.” He continued to the close of his useful life an active friend to his country, and by his services to the western settlements, in peace and in war, he has caused his name to be remembered with gratitude and veneration. He died at the Chickasaw agency, Sept. 1, 1814.
John Sevier
, the first governor of Tennessee, the compatriot and colleague of Gen. James Robertson, was born in Shenandoah county, Va., in 1744. His ancestors were French Huguenots; the family name in France is Xavier. The Earl of Dunmore, then governor of Virginia, appointed young Sevier a captain in the military service of the colony. Not long after the family emigrated to the west to the Holston, and finally to the Watauga. Inheriting the sprightliness, gallantry and generosity of his French ancestry, Capt. Sevier soon became a favorite in the wilds of Watauga. In the revolution, when the British troops were sweeping the friends of liberty before them in the southern states, Sevier and his companions in arms hastened to the rescue. His services in the important conflict at King's Mountain are well known. He was the first to introduce the Indian war-whoop among the soldiery. The British prisoners at King's Mountain said they could stand the fighting, but the hallooing confused them making them believe that “the mountains had regiments instead of companies.” Sevier was the idol of his soldiers, who were generally his neighbors and the members of his own family. Often no public provision was made for their pay and equipments. These were furnished by himself, he being at once commander, commissariat and paymaster. On the formation of the new “State of Franklin,” Sevier was chosen governor. In the trouble and confusion
William Blount
, the first governor of the “Territory south-west of the River Ohio,” was a native of North Carolina, and his relatives were distinguished during the revolutionary period. He received the appointment of governor under the administration of Washington in 1790. He was remarkable for his urbanity, hospitality and commanding presence. At first he made his residence in the fork of Holston and Watauga Rivers, at the house of Wm. Cobb, where he held his court in the ancient woods of Sullivan. After he removed to Knoxville, the friendly Indian chiefs paid frequent visits to the new capital. Mrs. Blount, the wife of the governor, an accomplished lady, became much interested in them, and by her address and persuasion induced them to restrain their young warriors from aggression upon the frontier people. Grainger county and Fort Grainger, at the mouth of the Tennessee, were named from the maiden name of Mrs. Blount. Governor Blount was cut off in the prime of life, and his remains were interred in the burying ground of the First Preshyterian Church, having a slab with the simple inscription: “William Blount, died March 21, 1800, aged 53 years.”
Andrew Jackson.
“'Ask nothing but what is right—submit to nothing wrong,' was Andrew Jackson's great political maxim, and it was an abiding principle in his character from his earliest youth until the close of his life. That noble principle was the key to his great success in whatever he undertook, and is worthy of
In 1790, Jackson made his residence at Nashville, and there he married an accomplished woman, who had been divorced from her husband. In 1795, he assisted in forming a state constitution for Tennessee, and was elected the first representative in congress of the new state. In the autumn of 1797, he took a seat in the United States senate, to which he had been chosen, and was a conspicuous supporter of the democratic party. He did not remain long at Washington. Soon after leaving the senate, he was appointed judge of the supreme court of his state. He resigned that office in 1804, and retired to his beautiful estate near Nashville. There he was visited by Aaron Burr, in 1805, and entered warmly into his schemes for invading Mexico. When Burr's intentions were suspected, Jackson refused further intercourse with him until he should prove the purity of his intentions. For many years Jackson was chief military commander in his section, and when war against Great Britain was proclaimed in 1812, he longed for employment in the field. He was called to duty in 1813. Early the following year he was made a major-general, and from that time until his great victory at New Orleans, on the 8th of January, 1815, his name was identified with every military movement in the south, whether against the hostile Indians, Britons or Spaniards. In 1818, he engaged successfully in a campaign against the Seminoles and other southern Indians, and, at the same time, he taught the Spanish authorities in Florida some useful lessons, and hastened the cession of that territory to the United States.
In 1821, President Monroe appointed General Jackson governor of Florida, and in 1823 he offered him the station of resident minister in Mexico. He declined the honor, but accepted a seat in the United States senate, to which the legislature of Tennessee had elected him. He was one of the four candidates for president of the United States in 1824, but was unsuccessful. He was elevated to that exalted station in 1828, by a large majority, and was re-elected in 1832. His administration of eight years was marked by great energy, and never were the affairs of the Republic, in its domestic and foreign relations, more prosperous than at the close of his term of office. In the spring of 1837, he retired from public life forever, and sought repose after a long and laborious career, devoted to the service of his country. He lived quietly at his residence near Nashville, called the Hermitage, until on a calm Sunday, the 8th of June, 1845, his spirit went home. He was then a little more than seventy-eight years of age. The memory of that great and good man is revered by his countrymen, next to that of Washington, and to him has been awarded the first equestrian statue in bronze ever erected in this country. It is colossal, and occupies a conspicuous place in President's Square, Washington City, where it was reared in 1852.
* Lossing's Eminent Americans.
Parton, in his three volume biography of Jackson, has given some facts
The Hermitage.
His parents were Scotch Irish emigrants from Carrackfergus, of the humblest condition in life, and to add to the struggles of the family with adversity, his father died just after the birth of his son. His mother was obliged to find a home, as housekeeper and poor relation, in the family of a brother-in-law, and here young Andrew passed the first ten or twelve years of his life. He soon acquired the reputation of being the most mischievous boy in the neighborhood, always full of pranks and getting into trouble. His school-days were not of the most promising character; nor, judging from Mr. Parton's lively description, was his youthful brain in danger of being turned by any superfluity of book-learning.
'In due time the boy was sent to an 'old field school,' an institution not much unlike the road-side schools in Ireland of which we read. The northern reader is, perhaps, not aware that an 'old-field' is not a field at all, but a pine forest. When crop after crop of cotton, without rotation, has exhausted the soil,' the fences are taken away, the land lies waste, the young pines at once spring up, and soon cover the whole field with a thick growth of wood. In one of these old fields, the rudest possible shanty of a log house is erected, with a fire-place that extends from side to side, and occupies a third of the interior. In winter, the interstices of the log walls are filled up with clay; which the restless fingers of the boys make haste to remove in time to admit the first warm airs of spring. An itinerant schoolmaster presents himself in a neighborhood; the responsible farmers pledge him a certain number of pupils, and an old-field school is established for the season. Such schools, called by the same name, exist to this day in the Carolinas, differing little from those which Andrew Jackson attended in his childhood. Reading, writing and arithmetic were all the branches taught in the early day. Among a crowd of urchins seated on the slab benches of a school like this, fancy a tall, slender boy, with bright blue eyes, a freckled face, an abundance of long, sandy hair, and clad in coarse, copperas-colored cloth, with bare feet dangling and kicking and you have in your mind's eye a picture of Andy as he appeared in his oldfield school days in the Waxhaw settlement'
His mother seems to have had more ambitious views for her son, and hoped that by being enabled to obtain for him a liberal education she would have the pleasure to see him 'wag his pow in a pulpit' as a clergyman of the Presbyterian Church. He was not destined, however, to 'beat the drum ecclesiastic,' though if his good mother's wishes could have been realized, he would doubtless have proved a valiant soldier of the 'church militant,' and dealt thick and heavy blows on the sinner and heretic with as much unction as he subsequently discomfited the invaders of his country at New Orleans. He was a fighter from his earliest boyhood. Not a drop of tame blood ran in his veins.
'Andy was a wild, frolicsome, willful, mischievous, daring, reckless boy; generous to a friend, but never content to submit to a stronger enemy. He was passionately fond of those sports which are mimic battles—above all, wrestling. Being a slender boy, more active than strong, he was often thrown.
'I could throw him three times out of four,' an old schoolmate used to say, 'but he would never
stay throwed.
He was dead game, even then, and never
would
give up.'
He was exceedingly fond of running foot races, of leaping the bar, and jumping, and in such sports he was excelled by no one of his years. To younger boys, who never questioned his mastery, he was a generous protector; there was nothing he would not do to defend them. His equals and superiors found him self-willed, somewhat overbearing, easily offended,
very
irascible, and upon the whole, 'difficult to get along with.' One of them said, many years after, in the heat of controversy, that of all the boys he had ever known, Andrew Jackson was the only bully who was not also a coward.
But the boy, it appears, had a special cause of irritation in a disgraceful disease, name unknown, which induces a habit of—not to put too fine a point on it—'slobbering.' Woe to any boy who presumed to jest at this misfortune! Andy washad
that pleasure. Springing up from the ground, the boy, in a frenzy of passion, exclaimed: 'By—, if one of you laughs I'll kill him!'
He soon had an opportunity, for pursuing higher game. He was nine years old when the declaration of independence was signed. By the time the war approached the obscure settlement in the region of the Catawba, where he was born, he was a little more than thirteen. A change now came over his rustic life. The schoolhouse was closed, the peaceful labors of the people interrupted. His elder brother Hugh had already mounted his horse and ridden southward to meet the bloody strife. 'It was on the 29th of May, 1780, that Tarleton, with three hundred horsemen, surprised a detachment of militia in the Waxhaw settlnment, and killed one hundred and thirteen of them, and wounded a hundred and fifty. The wounded; abandoned to the care of the settlers, were quartered in the houses of the vicinity, the old log Waxhaw meeting-house itself being converted into a hospital for the most desperate cases. Mrs. Jackson was one of the kind women who ministered to the wounded soldiers in the church, and under that roof her boys first saw what war was. The men were dreadfully mangled. Some had received as many as thirteen wounds, and none less than three. For many days Andrew and his brother assisted their mother in waiting upon the sick men; Andrew, more in rage than pity, though pitiful by nature, burning to avenge their wounds and his brother's death.
Tomb of Jackson
Tarleton's massacre at the Waxhaw settlement kindled the flames of war in all that region of the Carolinas. Andrew, with his brother Robert, was present at Sumpter's attack on the British post at Hariging Rock, where he might have received his first lesson in the art of war. Soon after he passed his fourteenth birth-day there ensued a fierce, intestine warfare in the vicinity of his home—a war of whig and tory, neighbor against neighbor, brother against brother, and even father against son. Among other instances of the madness that prevailed, a case is related of a whig, who, having found a friend murdered and mutilated, devoted himself to the slaying of tories. He hunted and lay in wait for them, and before the war ended had killed twenty, and then, recovering from that insanity, lived the rest of hisdays a conscience-stricken wretch. Andrew and his brother soon began to take a personal share in the eventful conflict. Without enlisting in any regular corps, they plunged into the fight on their own hook, joining small parties that went out on single enterprises of retaliation, mounted on their own horses, and carrying their own weapons. Mr. Parton gives a description of one of his adventures in this line which illustrates both the time and the boy:
'In that fierce, Scotch-Indian warfare, the absence of a father from home was often a better protection to his family than his presence, because his presence invited attack. The main object of both parties was to kill the fighting men, and to avenge the slaying of partisans. The house of the quiet hero Hicks, for example, was safe until it was noised about among the tories that Hicks was at home. And thus it came to pass, that when a whig soldier of note desired to spend a night with his family, his neighbors were accustomed to turn out and serve as a guard to his house while he slept. Behold Robert and Andrew Jackson, with six others, thus employed one night in the spring of 1781, at the domicil of a neighbor, Capt. Sands. The guard on this occasion was more a friendly tribute to an active partisan than a service considered necessary to his safety. In short, the night was not far advanced before the whole party were snugly housed and stretched upon the floor, all sound asleep except one, a British deserter, who was restless, and dozed at intervals.
Danger was near. A band of tories, bent on taking the life of Capt. Sands, approached
Andrew sprang up and ran out. Seeing a body of men in the distance, he placed the end of his gun in the low fork of a tree near the door and hailed them. No reply. He hailed them a second time. No reply. They quickened their pace, and had come within a few rods of the door. By this time, too, the guard in the house had been roused, and were gathered in a group behind the boy. Andrew discharged his musket, upon which the tories fired a volley, which killed the hapless deserter who had given the alarm. The other party of tories, who were approaching the house from the other side, hearing this discharge, and the rush of bullets above their heads, supposed that the firing proceeded from it party that had issued from the house.
They
now fired a volley, which sent a shower of balls whistling about the heads of their friends on the other side. Both parties hesitated and then halted. Andrew having thus, by his single discharge, puzzled and stopped the enemy, retired to the house, where he and his comrades kept up a brisk fire from the windows. One of the guard fell mortally wounded by his side, and another received a wound less severe. In the midst of this singular contest, a bugle was heard, some distance off, sounding the cavalry charge, whereupon the tories, concluding that they had come upon an ambush of whigs, and were about to be assailed by horse and foot, fled to where they had left their horses, mounted, dashed pell-mell into the woods, and were seen no more. It appeared afterward that the bugle charge was sounded by a neighbor, who, judging from the noise of musketry that Captain Sands was attacked, and having not a man with him in his house, gave the blast upon the trumpet, thinking that even a trick so stale, aided by the darkness of the night, might have some effect in alarming the assailants.'
After peace was restored to his neighborhood, young Jackson embraced every opportunity to engage in a 'free fight,' beside sharing largely in the fun and frolic, which were almost as congenial to his disposition as the drubbing of an adversary. Several Charleston families of wealth and distinction were waiting in the settlement for the evacuation of their city. With the young men whose acquaintance he thus made, Andrew led a life in the summer and autumn of 1782 that was more merry than wise. He now began to betray that taste for horse-flesh which became such a decided passion in after life. He ran races and rode races, gambled a little, drank a little, indulged in a cock-fight occasionally, and presented a glorious specimen of the young America at that day. He seems to have had but a faint love for his Carolina relations, and was probably regarded as the scapegrace of the family.
It is credibly related that his first attempt at earning a living for himself was in the capacity of a country schoolmaster, but after trying his hand in this uncongenial employment for a short time he resolved to study law. Gathering together his scanty earnings, he mounts his horse, sets his face to the northward in quest of a master with whom to pursue his law studies, and finally enters an office in Salisbury, N. C., at the age of eighteen. Of his residence in that pleasant old town, Mr. Parton has succeeded in bagging some characteristic if not altogether edifying reminiscences:
'Salisbury teems with traditions respecting the residence there of Andrew Jackson as a student of law. Their general tenor may be expressed in the language of the first old resident of the town, to whom I applied for information: 'Andrew Jackson was the most roaring, rollicking, game-cocking, horse-racing, card-playing, mischievous fellow that ever lived in Salisbury.' Add to this such expressions as these: 'He did not trouble the law books much,' 'he was more in the stable than in the office,' 'he was the head of all the rowdies hereabouts.' That is the substance of what the Salisbury of 1859 has to say of the Andrew Jackson of 1785.
Nothing is more likely than that he
was
a roaring, rollicking fellow, overflowing with life and spirits, and rejoicing to engage in all the fun that was going, but I do not believe that he neglected his duties at the office to the extent to which Salisbury says he did. There are good reasons for doubting it. At no part of Jackson's career, when we can get a
look
at him through a pair of trustworty eyes, dolawyer
, but that he was not diligent and eager in picking up the legal knowledge necessary for practice at that day, will become less credible to the reader the more he knows of him. Once, in the White House, forty-five years after this period, when some one from Salisbury reminded him of his residence in that town, he said, with a smile, and a look of retrospection on his aged face, ‘Yes, I lived at old Salisbury. I was but a raw lad then,
but I did my best.
’”
David Crockett's Cabin.
[Drawn by Henry Howe, Nov., 1859.]
Annexed is a view of the residence of the celebrated Col. David Crockett, at the time he was a member of congress. It is in Gibson county, in the north-western corner of Tennessee, about 4 miles easterly from Rutherford's Station, on the Mobile and Ohio Railroad. It is the present residence of Moses F. Whitehurst, and stands in the forks of Obion River, a stream famous in the history of Crockett's hunting adventures. The house is of hewn logs: originally it had “cat and clay” chimneys. These have given place to stone, and the logs are now weatherboarded. It is about 40 feet long and 14 wide, and is what is termed
“a double cabin
”—a favorite kind of backwoods structure in the south-west. The open space between the different parts of the cabin, in the heats of summer, is a common place for the families to partake of their meals, for the females to sew, and for general social intercourse. Independence, buoyant health, solid, substantial comfort, and general freedom from oppressive care, may be said to be the general condition of Americans who find their homes in double cabins.
The country in the vicinity of Crockett's cabin is yet in a somewhat wilderness condition, though it is now rapidly improving under the impetus given, of late years, to the cotton growing region. When in the county to make a sketch of the place for this work, we became acquainted with several gray-headed men, who evidently took pride in stating they had “voted for Crockett.” They described him as a man tall in stature, rising six feet, of sinewy frame, independent in manner, and an excellent story-teller. In his last canvass for congress he was beaten, and therefore emigrated to Texas. They related many anecdotes of his goodness of heart and generosity— among them this: In the autumn of 1838, a general migration of squirrels from the north crossed that section of country, devouring all the corn in their path, so that a famine threatened the inhabitants. Crockett, upon this,
“
‘Be sure you are right, then go ahead,’
is a wise maxim attributed to one whose life was a continual illustration of the sentiment. Every body has heard of ‘Davy Crockett,’ the immortal backwoodsman of Tennessee—the ‘crack shot’ of the wilderness —the eccentric but honest member of congress—the ‘hero of the Alamo’ —yet few knew his origin, his early struggles, and the general current of his life. History has but few words concerning him, but tradition is garrulous over his many deeds.
David Crockett was born at the mouth of the Limestone River, Greene county, East Tennessee, on the 17th of August, 1786. His father was of Scotch-Irish descent, and took a prominent part in the War for Independence. It was all a wilderness around David's birth-place, and his soul communed with nature in its unbroken wildness, from the beginning. He grew to young manhood, without any education from books other than he received in his own rude home. When only seven years of age, David's father was stripped of most of his little property, by fire. He opened a tavern in Jefferson county, where David was his main ‘help’ until the age of twelve years. Then he was hired to a Dutch cattle-trader, who collected herds in Tennessee and Kentucky, and drove them to the eastern markets. This vagrant life, full of incident and adventure, suited young Crockett, but becoming dissatisfied with his employer, he deserted him, and made his way back to his father's home. After tarrying a year, he ran away, joined another cattle-merchant, and at the end of the journey, in Virginia, he was dismissed with precisely four dollars in his pocket. For three years he was ‘knocking about,’ as he expressed it, and then he sought his father's home again. He now enjoyed the advantages of a school for a few weeks; and, finally, after several unsuccessful love adventures, he married an excellent girl, and became a father in 1810, when 24 years of age. He settled on the banks of Elk River, and was pursuing the quiet avocation of a farmer in summer, and the more stirring one of hunter in the autumn, when war was commenced with Great Britain, in 1812. Crockett was one of the first to respond to Gen. Jackson's call for volunteers, and under that brave leader he was engaged in several skirmishes and battles. He received the commission of colonel at the close of
the war, as a testimonial of his worth. His wife had died while he was in the army, and several small children were left to his care. The widow of a deceased friend soon came to his aid, and in this second wife he found an excellent guardian for his children. Soon after his marriage, he removed to Laurens county, where he was made justice of the peace, and was chosen to represent the district in the state legislature. Generous, full of fun, possessing great shrewdness, and ‘honest to a fault,’ Crockett became very popular in the legislature and among his constituents. In the course of a few years he removed to Western Tennessee, where he became a famous hunter. With the rough backwoodsmen there he was a man after their own hearts, and he was elected to a seat in congress, in 1828, and again in 1830. He and the opposing candidate canvassed their district together, and made stump speeches. Crockett's opponent had written his speech, and delivered the same one at different places. David was always original, and he readily yielded to his friend's request to speak first. At a point where both wished to make a good impression, Crockett desired to speak first. His opponent could not refuse; but, to his dismay, he heard David repeat his own speech. The colonelspeechless
, and lost his election. When the Americans in Texas commenced their war for independence, toward the close of 1835, Crockett hastened thither to help them, and at the storming of the Alamo, at San Antonio de Bexar, on the 6th of March, 1836, that eccentric hero was killed. He was afterward found dead, surrounded by a pile of the enemy, who had fallen beneath his powerful arm. He was then fifty years of age.”
Hugh Lawson White
, an eminent statesman and jurist, was born in North Carolina, in 1773, and when 13 years of age emigrated with his father's family to Knox county Tennessee. He was educated to the law in Pennsylvania, and in 1796, began the practice at Knoxville. Though his education was limited, he was clear headed, logical and self-relying, and attained distinction throughout the entire south-west, where he was “familiarly compared to Aristides, and reverently regarded as the Cato of the republic.” He served in many offices of trust, as U. S. district attorney, judge of the supreme court of Tennessee, state senator, president of the state bank, etc. He was appointed commissioner by President Monroe to adjust claims of our citizens against Spain. In 1825, 1831, and 1837, he was successively elected to the senate of the United States, where he served with signal ability. At the election for vice president of the United States, in 1836, he received all the votes of Georgia and Tennessee. In 1839, having received instructions from the legislature of Tennessee to vote in the senate contrary to his own judgment, he resigned his seat in that body, which he had held sixteen years. He died at his residence in Knoxville, April 16, 1840, in the 68th year of his age.
Brainerd, the Ancient Missionary Station among the Cherokees.
The engraving shows the Mission Church, Store House, and other buildings connected with the Mission as they appeared about the year 1821. The grave of Dr. Worcester
* Rev. Dr. Worcester, of Massachusetts, an active member of the American Board, died in his visit to the Cherokees, at Brainerd, June 7, 1821, and was interred on the Mission premises. His remains were taken up several years since, and carried to Massachusetts, by his son, a clergyman of that state. The mission grounds are now owned by A. E. Blunt, Esq., who was formerly connected with the mission as a farmer, mechanic and teacher. The wife and two children of Mr. Blunt were buried by the side of Dr. Worcester, with others of the mission family. The old Mission Church is still standing.
THE CHEROKEE MISSION.
The first mission of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions among the Cherokees, was commenced in 1817 at Brainerd, a spot within the limits of Tennessee, on the western side of the
Chickamauga Creek
, which is navigable to Brainerd, being about 15 miles from its confluence with the Tennessee. It was, at that time, nearly equi-distant from the eastern and western extremities of the Cherokee country, and perhaps 25 or 30 miles from the northern limit, which was the mouth of Hiawassee. A
The missions continued to flourish: 8 churches, or stations, were established, and the mass of the people became civilized, and, externally, embraced the Christian religion. In 1828 and 1829, the state of Georgia, repudiating the independent government which the Cherokees attempted to establish among themselves, extended her laws over them, and forbade the missionaries of the board to reside among them. Mr. Worcester and Dr. Butler, for violating this law, were imprisoned in the Georgia penitentiary. The case was brought before the supreme court of the United States, in 1832, which ordered their release. The bill for the removal of the Indians west of the Mississippi, passed congress in 1830. On Sunday, the 19th of Aug., 1835, the church at Brainerd gathered, for the last time in that place, around the sacramental table. In 1836, some of the principal chiefs negotiated a treaty at New Echota, for the sale of all their lands east of the Mississippi, for five millions of dollars. In 1838, the whole nation, 16,000 in number, were on their march for the west, in fourteen companies. Several missionaries accompanied them on their way. Their journey of 600 or 700 miles, was performed in four or five months. On the 22d of June, 1839,
Major Ridge
, his son,
John Ridge
, and
Elias Boudinot
, Cherokee chiefs, were assassinated by their countrymen, for the part they took in selling the lands of the nation.
THE JERKS.
About the beginning of the present century, the religious meetings of the west were attended by singular mental and physical phenomena, resembling, in some of their phases, the mesmeric phenomena of our time. These were comprised under the general name of
“the Jerks.
” The first recorded instance was at a sacrament in East Tennessee, when several hundred of both sexes were seized with this strange and involuntary contortion. A clerical writer, Rev. Barton W. Stone, has, in his biography, left an account of what he personally witnessed of these strange phenomena, which we here transcribe:
The bodily agitations or exercises attending the excitement in the beginning of this century were various, and called by various names, as the failing exercise, the jerks, the dancing exercise the barking exercise, the laughing and singing exercises, and so on. The falling exercise was very common among all classes, the saints and sinners of every age and grade from the philosopher to the clown. The subject of this exercise would generally, with a piercing scream, fall like log on the floor or earth, and appear as dead. Of thousands of similar cases, I will mention one. At a meeting, two gay young ladies, sisters, were standing together, attending the exercises and preaching at the same time, when instantly they both fell with a shriek of distress, and lay for more than an hour apparently in a lifeless state. Their mother, a pious Baptist, was in great distress, fearing they would not revive. At length they began to exhibit signs of life, by crying fervently for mercy, and then relapsed into the same death-like state, with an awful gloom on their countenances; after a while, the gloom on the face of one was succeeded by a heavenly smile, and she cried out. ‘Precious Jesus!’ and spoke of the glory of the gospel to the surrounding crowd in language almost superhuman, and exhorted all to repentance. In a little while after, the other sister was similarly exercised. From that time they became remarkably pious members of the church.
I have seen very many pious persons fall in the same way, from a sense of the danger of their unconverted children, brothers, or sisters, or from a sense of the danger of their neighbors in a sinful world. I have heard them agonizing in tears,
The jerks can not be so easily described. Sometimes the subject of the jerks would be affected in some one member of the body, and sometimes in the whole system. When the head alone was affected, it would be jerked backward and forward, or from side to side, so quickly that the features of the face could not be distinguished. When the whole system was affected, I have seen the person stand in one place, and jerk backward and forward in quick succession, the head nearly touching the floor behind and before. All classes, saints and sinners, the strong as well as the weak, were thus affected. I have inquired of those thus affected if they could not account for it, but some have told me that those were among the happiest seasons of their lives. I have seen some wicked persons thus affected. and all the time cursing the jerks, while they were thrown to the earth with violence. Though so awful to behold, I do not remember that any one of the thousands I have seen thus affected, ever sustained any injury in body. This was as strange as the exercise itself.
The dancing exercise generally began with the jerks, and was peculiar to professors of religion. The subject, after jerking awhile, began to dance, and then the jerks would cease. Such dancing was indeed heavenly to the spectators. There was nothing in it like levity, nor calculated to excite levity in the beholders. The smile of Heaven shone on the countenance of the subject, and assimilated to angels appeared the whole person. Sometimes the motion was quick, and sometimes slow. Thus they continued to move forward and backward in the same track or alley till nature seemed exhausted; and they would fall prostrate on the floor or earth, unless caught by those standing by. While thus exercised, I have heard their solemn praises and prayers ascend to God.
The barking exercise, as opposers contemptuously called it, was nothing but the jerks. A person affected with the jerks, especially in his head, would often make a grunt or a bark, from the suddenness of the jerk. This name of barking seems to have had its origin from an old Presbyterian preacher of East Tennessee. He had gone into the woods for private devotion, and was seized with the jerks. Standing near a sapling, he caught hold of it to prevent his falling, and as his head jerked back, he uttered a grunt, or a kind of noise similar to a bark, his face being turned upward. Some wag discovered him in this position, and reported that he had found the old preacher barking up a tree.
The laughing exercise was frequent—confined solely to the religious. It was a loud, hearty laughter, but it excited laughter in none that heard it. The subject appeared rapturously solemn, and his laughter excited solemnity in saints and sinners: it was truly indescribable!
The running exercise was nothing more than that persons feeling something of these bodily agitations, through fear, attempted to run away and thus escape from them; but it commonly happened that they ran not far before they fell, where they became so agitated they could not proceed any farther.
I knew a young physician, of a celebrated family, who came some distance to a big meeting, to see the strange things he had heard of. He and a young lady had sportively agreed to watch over and take care of each other if either should fall. At length, the physician felt something very uncommon, and started from the congregation to run into the woods. He was discovered running as for life, but did not proceed far until he fell down, and there lay until he submitted to the Lord, and afterward became a zealous member of the Church. Such cases were common.
The singing exercise is more unaccountable than any thing else I ever saw. The subject, in a very happy state of mind, would sing most melodiously, not from the mouth or nose, but entirely in the breast the sounds issuing thence. Such noise silenced everything, and attracted the attention of all. It; was most heavenly, none could ever be tired of hearing it.
Arms Of Kentucky.
Kentucky
was originally included in the limits of Virginia, and the name, said to signify, in the Indian tongue, “The dark and bloody ground,” is indicative of her early conflicts with a wily and savage foe. The first explorer of her territory of whom we have any very definite knowledge was Col. James Smith, who traveled westward in 1766, from Holston River, with three men and a mulatto slave. The beautiful tract of country near the Kentucky River appears to have been reserved by the Indians as a
hunting ground
, and consequently none of their settlements were found there. The dark forests and cane thickets of Kentucky separated the Creeks, Cherokees and Catawbas of the south from the hostile tribes of the Shawnees, Wyandots and Delawares of the north.
In 1767, John Findley and some others made a trading expedition from North Carolina to this region. In 1769, Daniel Boone (the great pioneer of Kentucky), with five others, among whom was Findley, undertook a journey to explore the country. After a long fatiguing march over a mountainous wilderness, they arrived upon its borders, and from an eminence discovered the beautiful valley of the Kentucky. Boone and his companions built a cabin on Red River, from whence they made various excursions. Boone being out hunting one day, in company with a man named Stuart, was surprised and both taken prisoners by the Indians. They eventually succeeded in making their escape. On regaining their camp, they found it dismantled and deserted. The fate of its inmates was never ascertained. After an absence of nearly three years, Boone returned to his family in North Carolina.
In 1770, Col. James Knox led into Kentucky a party from Holston, on Clinch River, who remained in the country about the same length of time with Boone's party, and thoroughly explored the middle and southern part of the country. Boone's party traversed the northern and middle region with great attention. Although both parties were in the country together, they
In the summer of 1774, parties of surveyors and hunters followed, and within the year James Harrod erected a log cabin where Harrodsburg is now built; this soon grew into a settlement or station—the oldest in Kentucky.
In 1775, Daniel Boone constructed a fort, afterward called Boonesborough, during which time his party was exposed to fierce attacks from the Indians. By the middle of April, the fort was completed, and soon after his wife and daughters joined him and resided in the fort—the first white women who ever stood on the banks of Kentucky River.
In 1775, the renowned pioneer Simon Kenton erected a log cabin where the town of Washington now stands, in Mason county. In the winter of this year, Kentucky was formed into a county by the legislature of Virginia. In the spring of 1777, the court of quarter sessions held its first sitting at Harrodsburg.
The years 1780 and 1781 were distinguished for a great emigration to Kentucky, and great activity in land speculations, and by inroads of the Indians. In 1780, an expedition of Indians and British troops, under Col. Byrd, threatened the settlements with destruction. Cannon were employed against the stockade forts, some of the stations were destroyed, and the garrisons taken.
In 1781, every portion of the country was continually in alarm, and many lives were lost. The most important battle between the whites and Indians ever fought on its soil was on the 19th of August, 1782, near the Blue Lick Springs. The celebrated Col. Boone bore a prominent part in this engagement, in which he lost a son. The whites numbered but 182, while the Indians were twice or thrice that number. From the want of due caution in advancing against the enemy, they were, after a short but severe action, routed with the loss of seventy-seven men and twelve wounded. Kentucky being the first settled of the western states, a large number of expeditions were sent out by her from time to time against the Indians in the then wilderness country north of the Ohio; these were mostly within the present limits of Ohio, which thus became the battle ground of Kentucky, and was watered with the blood of her heroic pioneers.
After the revolutionary war, there was a period of political discontent. This arose partly from the inefficient protection of Virginia and the old federal congress against the inroads of the Indians, and partly by a distrust; lest the general government should surrender the right to navigate the Mississippi to its mouth.
Kentucky was the central scene of the imputed intrigues of Aaron Burr and his coadjutors to form a western republic. What the precise designs of Burr really were has perhaps never been fully understood.
Kentucky took an active part in the war of 1812. After the surrender of Hull at Detroit, the whole quota of the state, consisting of upward of 5,000 volunteers, was called into active service. In addition to these, a force of mounted volunteers was raised, and at one time upward of 7,000 Kentuckians are said to have been in the field, and such was the desire in the state to
Kentucky was separated from Virginia in 1786, after having had several conventions at Danville. In 1792, it was received into the Union as an independent state. The first constitution was formed in 1790, the second in 1796. The financial revulsion which followed the second war with Great Britain was severely felt in Kentucky. The violence of the crisis was much enhanced in this state by the charter of forty independent banks in 1818, with a capital of nearly ten millions of dollars, which were permitted to redeem their notes with the paper of the bank of Kentucky. The state was soon flooded with the paper of these banks. This soon depreciated, and the state laws were such that the creditor was obliged to receive his dues at one half their value. The people of the state became divided into two parties; the debtor party, which constituted the majority, was called the Relief, and the creditors the Anti-Relief party. The judges of the courts declared the acts of the legislature, in sustaining the currency, unconstitutional. The majority attempted to remove them from office by establishing new courts; the people became divided into the “new court” and “old court” parties. The contest was finally decided in the canvass of 1826, when the old court party pervailed.
Kentucky is bounded N. by the Ohio River, separating it from the states of Ohio, Indiana and Illinois; E. by Virginia; W. by the Mississippi River, separating it from Missouri, and S. by Tennessee. It is situated between 36° 30′ and 39° 10′ N. Lat., and between 81° 50′ and 89° 20′ W. Long. Its length is about 400 miles, and its breadth 170 miles, containing 37,680 square miles.
Kentucky presents a great diversity of surface. In the eastern part, where it is bordered by the Cumberland Mountains, there are numerous lofty elevations; and on the Ohio River, through nearly the whole extent of the state, there is a strip of hilly but fertile land from five to twenty miles in breadth. On the margin of the Ohio are numerous tracts of bottom lands, which are periodically overflowed. Between the hilly country of the more mountainous eastern counties and Green River is a fertile tract, frequently called the “garden of the state.” This is in the blue limestone region, in the midst of which is the beautiful town of Lexington. The line demarking this region passes from the Ohio round the heads of Licking and Kentucky Rivers, Dick's River, and down Great Green River to the Ohio; and within this compass of above one hundred miles square is found one of the most fertile and extraordinary countries on which the sun has ever shone. The soil is of a loose, deep and black mold, without sand—on first-rate lands, from two to three feet deep—and exceedingly luxuriant in all its productions. It is well watered by fine springs and streams, and its beautiful climate and the salubrity of the country are unequalled; the winter, even, being seldom so inclement as to render the housing of cattle necessary. In a state of nature, nearly the whole surface of this region was covered with a dense forest of majestic trees, and a close undergrowth of gigantic reeds, forming what in the country are called canebrakes. In the southern part, however, on the head waters of Green River and its tributaries, is an extensive tract, thinly
57“barrens.
”
In 1800, the legislature considering this tract but of little value, made a gratuitous grant of it to actual settlers. This land proved to be excellent for grain, and also adapted to the raising of cattle. The whole state, below the mountains, has, at the usual depth of eight feet, a bed of limestone, which has frequent apertures. The rivers have generally worn deep channels in the calcareous rocks over which they flow. There are precipices on the Kentucky River of solid limestone 300 feet high. Iron ore and coal are widely diffused; coal, especially, occupies an extensive field. Salt springs are numerous, and mineral springs are found in many places. The great agricultural productions are hemp, flax, Indian corn, tobacco, wheat and live stock. More than half of all the hemp raised in the Union is grown in Kentucky. Population, in 1790, 73,077; in 1820, 564,317; in 1840, 779,828; in 1850, 982,405; in 1860, 1,185,567, of whom 225,490 were slaves.
South-eastern view of Frankfort.
Showing the appearance of the place from the railroad. The southern entrance of the tunnel through the limestone bluff, and under the State Arsenal and foot path to the Cemetery, is seen on the right. The Capitol and some other public buildings are seen in the central part, Kentucky River in front on the left.
Frankfort,
the capital of Kentucky, is 25 miles N. W. from Lexington, and 53 E. from Louisville. It is beautifully situated on the right or northeast bank of Kentucky River, 60 miles above its mouth, in the midst of the wild and picturesque scenery which renders that stream so remarkable. The city stands on an elevated plain between the river and the high bluffs, which rise 150 feet immediately behind the town. The river, which is navigable for steamboats to this place, is nearly 100 yards wide, and flows through a deep channel of limestone rock. A chain bridge crosses the river here, connecting the city with South Frankfort, its suburb. The railroad from Lexington
State House, Of Frankfort
“Frankfort was established by the Virginia legislature in 1786, though the first survey of 600 acres was made by Robert McAfee, on the 16th of July, 1773. The seat of government was located in 1792, and the first session of the assembly was held in 1793. The public buildings not being ready, the legislature assembled in a large frame house belonging to Maj. James Love, on the bank of the river, in the lower part of the city.”
The Frankfort Cemetery is laid out on the summit of the high and commanding bluffs which immediately rise in an eastern direction from the city. The “Military Monument” (an engraving of which is annexed) was erected in pursuance of an act of the legislature, Feb., 1848. The following inscriptions and names are engraved upon it, viz:
Military Monument Erected By Kentucky
, A. D., 1860.
Mexico
, Lt. J.W. Powell;
Boonesborough, Harmar's Defeat
, Capt. J. McMurtsy;
Monterey
, P. M. Barbour;
Buena Vista
, Col. William R. McKee, Lieut. Col. Clay, Capt. Wm. T. Willis, Adjutant E. P. Vaughn;
Raisin
, Col. John Allen, Maj. Benjamin Graves, Capt. John Woolfolk, Capt. N. G. S. Hart, Capt. James Meade, Capt. Robert Edwards, Capt. Virgil McCracken, Capt. William Price, Capt. John Edmundson, Capt. John Simpson, Capt. Pascal Hickman, Lieut. John Williamson;
Thames
, Col. Wm. Whitley, Capt. Elijah
Military Monument, Frankfort.
The small monument in front is that of Maj. Barbour; in the distance is shown that of Col. R. M. Johnson.Indian Wars
, Col. John Floyd, Col. Nathaniel Hart, Col. Walker Daniel, Col. Wm. Christian, Col. Rice Galloway, Col. James Harrod, Col. Wm. Lynn, Maj. Evan Shelby, Maj. Bland Ballard, Capt. Christ Irvin, Capt. Wm. McAfee, Capt. John Kennedy, Capt. Christopher Crepps, Capt. Rogers, Capt. Wm. Bryant, Capt. Tipton, Capt. Chapman, Capt. McCracken, Capt. James Shelby, Capt. Samuel Grant, Supv'r Hane'y Taylor, Supv'r Willis Lee;
Massissinaway, St. Clair's Defeat
, Col. Wm. Oldham;
Estill's Defeat
, Capt. James Estill, Lieut. South;
Tippecanoe
, Col. Joseph H. Daviess, Col. Abram Owen; Fort Meigs, Col. Wm. Dudley, Capt. John C. Morrison, Capt. Chris'r Irvin, Capt. Joseph Clark, Capt. Thomas Lewis;
Blue Licks
, Col. John Todd, Col. Stephen Trigg, Major Silas Harlan, Maj. Wm. McBride, Capt. Edward Bulger, Capt. John Gordon, Capt. Isaac Boone.
The principal battles and campaigns in which her sons devoted their lives to their country are inscribed on the bands, and beneath the same are the names of the officers who fell. The names of her soldiers who died for their country are too numerous to be inscribed on any column. By order of the legislature, the name of Col. J. J. Hardin, of the 1st Reg. Illinois Infantry, a son of Kentucky, who fell at the battle of Buena Vista, is inscribed hereon.
Kentucky has erected this column in gratitude equally to her officers and soldiers.
To the memory of
Col. Richard M. Johnson
, a faithful public servant for nearly half a century, as a member of the Kentucky legislature and senator in congress. Author of the Sunday Mail Report, and of the laws for the abolishment for debt in Kentucky and in the United States. Distinguished for his valor as a colonel of a Kentucky regiment at the battle of the Thames. For four years vice-president of the United States. Kentucky, his native state, to mark the sense of his eminent services in the cabinet and in the field, has erected this monument in the resting place of her illustrious dead. Richard Mentor Johnson, born at Bryant's Station, on the 17th day of October, 1781; died in Frankfort, Ky., on the 19th day of November, 1850.
Philip Norbourne Barbour
, born in Henderson, Kentucky, graduated with merit at West Point in 1829; and immediately commissioned Lieutenant 3d Regiment U. S. Infantry; captain by brevet for valor in the Florida War; served with distinction at Palo Alto; major by brevet for distinguished gallantry and skill at Resaca de la Palma. lie fell at the head of his command, covered with honor and glory, at the storming of Monterey, Sept. 21; 1846. Florida, Palo Alto, Resaca de Palma, Monterey. Kentucky has erected this monument to a brave and noble son.
“At its session of 1844-45, the legislature of Kentucky adopted measures to have the mortal remains of the celebrated pioneer; Daniel Boone, and those of his wife, removed from their place of burial on the banks of the Missouri, for the purpose of interment in the public cemetery at Frankfort.
The consent of the surviving relations of the deceased having been obtained, a commission was appointed, under whose superintendence the removal was effected; and the 13th of September, 1845, was fixed upon as the time when the ashes of the venerable dead would be committed with fitting ceremonies to the place of their final repose. The deep feeling excited by the occasion was evinced by the assembling of an immense concourse of citizens from all parts of the state, and the ceremonies were most imposing and impressive. A procession, extending more than a mile in length, accompanied the coffins to the grave. The hearse, decorated with evergreens and flowers, and drawn by four white horses, was placed in its assigned position in the line, accompanied, as pall bearers, by the following distinguished pioneers, viz: Col. Richard M. Johnson, of Scott; General James Taylor, of Campbell, Capt. James Ward, of Mason; Gen. Robert B. McAfee and Peter Jordan, of Mercer; Waller Bullock, Esq., of Fayette; Capt, Thos. Joyce, of Louisville
Graves Of Daniel Boone And His Wife At Frankfort.
The graves of Boone and his wife are without a monument save the forest scene by which they are surrounded. The spot where they were interred is at the foot of the two trees, around which is a simple board seat. It is near the edge of the high bluff rising from the river. The beautiful valley of Kentucky River is seen in the extreme distance.
Only two persons were present of all the assembled thousands who had known Boone personally. One of these was the venerable Col. John Johnston, of Ohio, long an agent of the U. S. government over the Indians, having been appointed to that office by Washington. The other was a humble old man named Ellison Williams, who walked barefoot from Covington to Frankfort, a distance of sixty miles, to see Boone's bones buried, but he was a silent mourner and an entire stranger in that vast crowd. He left as his dying request that he should be buried by the side of Boone, and the legislature of Kentucky in 1860 appropriated ninety dollars for that purpose. At the same session they passed a bill appropriating two thousand dollars to erect a monument over the remains of Boone and his wife. The originator of the bill was the Hon. Samuel Haycraft, senator from Hardin, who advocated the measure in a speech of “almost matchless beauty, eloquence and patriotism.”
Harrodsburg,
the county seat of Mercer county, is situated near the geographical center of the state, thirty miles south from Frankfort, on an eminence, 1 mile from Salt River and 8 miles from Kentucky River. It contains the county buildings, 7 churches, 2 banks 25 stores, several manufacturing establishments, the Kentucky University, 2 female colleges, and about 2,500 inhabitants. Baco College, founded in 1836, under the patronage of the Christian denomination, is located in this place. The Harrodsburg
According to some authorities, Harrodsburg was the first settled place in Kentucky. In July, 1773, the McAfee company from Bottetourt county, Va., visited this region, and surveyed lands on Salt River. Capt. James Harrod, with forty-one men, descended the Ohio River from the Monongahela, in May, 1774, and penetrating into the intervening forest made his principal camp about one hundred yards below the town spring, under the branches of a large elm tree. About the middle of June, Capt. Harrod and companions laid off a town plot (which included the camp), and erected a number of cabins. The place received the name of Harrodstown, afterward Oldtown, and finally the present name of Harrodsburg. The first corn raised in Kentucky was in 1775, by John Harmon, in a field at the east end of Harrodsburg. During the year 1777, the Indians, in great numbers, collected about Harrodsburg, in order, it was supposed, to prevent any corn being raised for the support of the settlers. In this period of distress and peril, a lad by the name of Ray, seventeen years of age, rendered himself an object of general favor by his courage and enterprise. He often rose before day, and left the fort on an old horse to procure (by hunting) food for the garrison. This horse was the only one left unslaughtered by the Indians of forty brought to the country by Major M'Gary. He proceeded, on these occasions, cautiously to Salt River, generally riding in the bed of some small stream to conceal his course. When sufficiently out of hearing, he would kill his load of game and bring it in to the suffering people of the fort after nightfall.
Louisville,
the seat of justice for Jefferson county, is the largest city in the state, and, next to Cincinnati and Pittsburg, the most important on the Ohio. It is situated on the left bank of the river, at the head of the rapids, 65 miles by railroad W. of Frankfort, 130 below Cincinnati, 590 W. by S. from Washington, and 1,411 above New Orleans. The city is built on a gentle acclivity, 75 feet above low water mark, on a slightly undulating plain. Eight handsome streets, nearly two miles in length, run east and west, parallel with the river: they are crossed by more than 30 others running at right angles. The situation and surrounding scenery of Louisville are beautiful, and from some parts is had a delightful view of the Ohio River and of the town of New Albany, a few miles below.
Its immediate trade extends into all the surrounding country, and embraces within the state of Kentucky a circuit of one of the most productive regions of the world. The manufactures of Louisville are very extensive, embracing a great variety. It has founderies and machine shops, steam bagging factories, cotton, woolen and tobacco factories, mills of various kinds, distilleries, breweries, agricultural factories, etc. Ship building is also extensively carried on. The trade of Louisville is estimated at one hundred millions of dollars annually. The principal agricultural exports are tobacco, pork, hemp, and flour. It is connected with its suburb Portland by a railroad operated by horse power, and by a canal 2½ miles around the Falls of the Ohio, with a total lockage of 22 feet. It is also connected by railroads with the interior. Since the completion of the railroad to Nashville, an immense trade has opened with the south, which has given a great impulse to the prosperity of the city. Louisville contains many splendid public buildings, 10 banks, about 50 churches, and a population, in 1860, of 75,196.
The
Medical Institute
, organized in 1837, by an ordinance of the cityUniversity of Louisville
is in successful operation, and has buildings which are an ornament to the city. The
Marine Hospital
, designed as a refuge for sick and infirm mariners, is an important public institution, located and established here in 1820, by a grant from the state of $40,000. Another Marine Asylum has been erected here by the general government. The
Asylum for the Blind
, established by the state in 1842, has a spacious building erected by the joint contributions of the state and citizens of Louisville. The students, beside their literary studies, are also instructed in various kinds of handicraft, by which they can support themselves after leaving the institution.
St. Joseph's Infirmary
is a Catholic benevolent institution. The
Kentucky Historical Society
, in this place, was incorporated in 1838: it has collected valuable documents relating to the early history of the state and of the west. The Mercantile Library Association has a large and valuable collection of books. The
Artesian Well
, at Louisville, sends up immense quantities of mineral water of rare medicinal value in various complaints, proving a blessing as great as it was unexpected to the citizens.
View of the Central part of Louisville.
The view shows the appearance of the central part of Louisville, from the Indiana side of the Ohio. The Jefferson City Ferry Landing, and Galt House appear on the left, the Louisville Hotel in the distance on the right, tho Court House and City Hall, the Catholic and other Churches in the central part.
The following, relative to the first settlement, etc., of Louisville, is from Collins' Historical Sketches of Ky.:
Captain Thomas Bullitt, of Virginia, uncle of the late Alexander Scott Bullitt, who was the first lieutenant-governor of Kentucky, is said to have laid off Louisville in 1773. This was before the first log cabin was built in Kentucky. For several years after this, the silence of the forest was undisturbed by the white man. The place was occasionally visited by different persons, but no settlement was made until 1778. In the spring of this year, a party, consisting of a small number of families, came to the Falls with George Rogers Clark, and were left by him on an
These settlers were sixty or seventy miles distant from any other settlement, and had nothing but their insular position to defend them from the Indians. The posts in the Wabash country, occupied by the British, served as points of support for tile incursions of the savages. After these had been taken by Clark, the settlers were inspired with confidence, and, in the fall of 1778, removed from the island to the site now occupied by Louisville. Here a block house was erected, and the number of settlers was increased by the arrival of other emigrants from Virginia.
In 1780, the legislature of Virginia passed ‘an act for establishing the town of Louisville, at the falls of Ohio.’ By this act, ‘John Todd, jr., Stephen Trigg, Geo. Slaughter, John Floyd, William Pope, George Meriwether, Andrew Hynes, James Sullivan, gentlemen,’ were appointed trustees to lay off the town on a tract of one thousand acres of land, which had been granted to John Connelly by the British government, and which he had forfeited by adhering to the English monarch. Each purchaser was to build on his own lot ‘a dwelling house sixteen feet by twenty at least, with a brick or stone chimney, to be finished within two years from the day of sale.’ On account of the interruptions caused by the inroads of the Indians, the time was afterward extended. The state of the settlers was one of constant danger and anxiety. Their foes were continually prowling around, and it was risking their lives to leave the fort.
The settlement at the falls was more exposed than those in the interior, on account of the facility with which the Indians could cross and recross the river, and the difficulties in the way of pursuing them. The savages frequently crossed the river, and after killing some of the settlers, and committing depredations upon property, recrossed and escaped. In. 1780, Colonel George Slaughter arrived at the Falls with one hundred and fifty state troops. The inhabitants were inspired with a feeling of security which led them frequently to expose themselves with too little caution. Their foes were ever on the watch, and were continually destroying valuable lives. Danger and death crouched in every path, and lurked behind every tree.
Medical and Law Colleges, Louisville.
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the graveyards of Louisville, the first three being in the old yard in the city, the remainder in the Cave Hill Cemetery:
Erected by Dr. J. M. Talbot to the memory of his Father, Capt.
Isham Talbot,
who departed this life July 30, 1839, in his 81st year. He was born in Virginia. At a tender age
Rev.
Isaac Mccoy,
born June 13th, 1784, died June 21st, 1836. For near 30 years, his entire time and energies were devoted to the civil and religious improvement of the Aboriginal tribes of this country. He projected and founded the plan of their Colonization, their only hope, the imperishable monument of his wisdom and benevolence.
The Indian's Friend, for them he loved through life,
For them in death he breathed his final prayer.
Now from his toil he rests—the care—the strife—
And waits in heaven, his works to follow there.
To the memory of
Major John Harrison,
who was born in Westmoreland Co., Virginia, A.D. 1754. After having fought for the Liberty of his Country during the struggles of the American Revolution, he settled in Louisville in 1786, and paid nature's final debt, July 15th, 1821.
Pearson Follansbee,
City Missionary in Louisville, born March 4, 1808, in Vassalboro, Me., died Sept. 6th, 1846. “He went about doing good. His record is on high.”
00
Sacred to the memory of
John Mckinley,
Associate Justice of the Supreme Court of the U. S. Born May 1, 1780; died July 19, 1852. “In his manner he was simple and unaffected, and his character was uniformly marked with manliness, integrity and honor. He was a candid, impartial and righteous judge, shrinking from no responsibility. He was fearless in the performance of his duty, seeking only to do right, and fearing nothing but to do wrong.”—
Hon. J. J. Crittenden's remarks in U. S. Court.
Wm. H. G. Butler,
born in Jefferson Co., Ind., Oct. 3, 1825, died at Louisville, Ky., Nov. 2, 1853. A man without fear and without reproach, of gentle and retiring disposition, of clear and vigorous mind; an accomplished scholar, a devoted and successful teacher, a meek and humble Christian. He fell by the hand of violence in the presence of his loving pupils, a Martyr to his fidelity in the discharge of duty. This monument is erected by his pupils, and a bereaved community, to show their appreciation of his worth, and to perpetuate their horror at his murder.
Jane Mccullough,
wife of John Martin, died by the falling of the Walnut Presbyterian Church, Aug. 27, 1854. Aged 59 years.
She loved the Courts of God below,
There found her Saviour nigh,
And while engaged in worship there,
Was called to those on high.
Annexed is a view of the magnificent bridge over Green River on the Louisville and Nashville Railroad. Excepting the Victoria Bridge, at Montreal, it is the largest iron bridge on this continent. The iron work of the superstructure, which was built by Inman & Gault, of Louisville, was begun in July, 1858, and by July, 1859, the bridge was in its place ready for the passage of trains.
“It crosses the valley of Green River near the town of Mumfordsville, Kentucky, about 70 miles from Louisville, and twenty miles above the celebrated Mammoth Cave, which is located on the same stream. Its total length is 1,000 feet, consisting of three spans of 208 feet, and two of 288 feet each; is 118 feet above low-water; contains 638,000 pounds of cast, and 381,000 pounds of wrought iron, and 2,500 cubic feet of timber in the form of rail joists. There are 10,226 cubic yards of masonry in the piers and abutments. The cost of the superstructure, including that of erection, was sixty-eight dollars per foot lineal—that of the entire work, $165,000. The plan of truss is that invented by Albert Fink, the designer and constructor of the bridges and viaducts on the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad; and is peculiar in this, that it is self-compensating and self-adjusting, and no extremes of temperature can put it in such a condition that all the parts can not act in their accustomed manner and up to their full capacity.”
The celebrated
Mammoth Cave
, one of the great wonders of the western world, is in Edmondson county, near the line of the Louisville and Nashville Railroad, and about 90 miles from each of the two cities. It is said to have been explored to the distance of 10 miles without reaching its termination, while the aggregate width of all its branches exceeds forty miles.
Iron Bridge over Green River.
“The cave is approached through a romantic shade. At the entrance is a rush of cold air; a descent of 30 feet, by stone steps, and an advance of 150 feet inward, brings the visitor to the door, in a solid stone wall, which blocks up the entrance of the cave. A narrow passage leads to the great
vestibule
, or ante-chamber, an oval hall, 200 by 150 feet, and 50 feet high. Two passages, of one hundred feet width, open into it, and the whole is supported without a single column. This chamber was used by the races of yore as a cemetery, judging from the bones of gigantic size which are discovered. A hundred feet above your head, you catch a fitful glimpse of a dark gray ceiling, rolling dimly away like a cloud; and heavy, buttresses, apparently
Gothic Chapel, Mammoth Cave.
Audubon Avenue
, leading from the hall, is a deep well of pure spring water, surrounded by stalagmite columns from the floor to the roof. The
Little Bat Room
contains a pit of 280 feet deep, and is the resort of myriads of bats. The
Grand Gallery
is a vast tunnel, many miles long and 50 feet high, and as wide. At the end of the first quarter of a mile are the
Kentucky Cliffs
, and the
Church
, 100 feet in diameter and 63 feet high. A natural pulpit and organ loft are not wanting. ‘In this temple religious services have frequently been performed.’ The
Gothic Avenue
, reached by a flight of stairs, is 40 feet wide, 15 feet high, and 2 miles long. Mummies have been discovered here, which have been the subject of curious study to science; there are also stalagmites and stalactites in
Louisa's Bower
and
Vulcan's Furnace.
On the walls of the
Register Rooms
are inscribed thousands of names. The
Gothic Chapel
, or
Stalagmite Hall
, is an elliptical chamber, 80 feet long by 50 wide. Stalagmite columns of immense size nearly block up the two ends; and two rows of pillars of smaller dimensions, reaching from the floor to the ceiling, and equi-distant from the wall on either side, extend the entire length of the hall. This apartment is one of surprising grandeur, and when illuminated with lamps, inspires the beholder with feelings of solemnity and awe. At the foot of the
Devil's Arm Chair
is a small basin of sulphur water. Then there is the
Breastwork
, the
Elephant's Head, Lover's Leap, Gatewood's Dining Table
, and the
Cooling Tub
, a basin 6 feet wide and 3 feet deep, of the purest water,
Napoleon's Dome
, etc. The
Ball Room
contains an orchestra 15 feet high; near by is a row of cabins for consumptive patients—the atmosphere being always temperate and pure. The
Star Chamber
presents an optical illusion. ‘In looking up, the spectator seems to see the firmament itself, studded with stars, and afar off a comet with a bright tail.’ The
Temple
is an immense vault, covering an area of two acres, and covered by a single dome of solid rock, 120 feet high. It rivals the celebrated vault in the Grotto of Antiparos, which is the largest in the world. In the middle of the dome there is a large mound of rocks rising on one side nearly to the top, very steep, and forming what is called the
Mountain.
The
River Hall
descends like, the slope of a mountain; the ceiling stretches away before you, vast and grand as the firmament at midnight. A short distance on the left is a steep precipice, over which you can look down, by the aid of torches, upon a broad, black sheet of water, 80 feet below, called the
Dead Sea.
This is an awfully impressive place, the sights and sounds of which do not easily pass from memory.”
Maysville
is situated on the left bank of the Ohio, 73 miles N.E. from Frankfort, 441 below Pittsburg, and 55 above Cincinnati by the river. It is beautifully located on a high bank, having a range of lofty verdant hills or bluffs rising immediately behind the city. Maysville has a good harbor, and is the port of a large and productive section of the state. Among the public buildings, there is a handsome city hall, 2 large seminaries, a hospital and 7 churches. Bagging, rope, machinery, agricultural implements, and various other articles, are extensively manufactured. It is one of the largest hemp markets in the Union. Population about 3,000.
Maysville was known for many years as
Limestone
, from the Creek of that name, which here empties into the Ohio. It received its present name from
John May
, the owner of the land, a gentleman from Virginia. The first settlement was made at this place in 1784, and a double log cabin and block house were built by Edward and John Waller, and George Lewis, of Virginia. Col. Daniel Boone resided here in 1786, and while here made a treaty with the Indians at the mouth of Fishing Gut, opposite Maysville. The town was established in 1788. The first school was opened in 1790, by Israel Donaldson, who had been a captive among the Indians. The frontier and exposed situation of Maysville retarded its progress for many years, and
View of the Mouth of Licking River, between Newport and Covington.
The Suspension Bridge between Newport and Covington is seen in the central part, passing over Licking River. The U. S. Barracks, in Newport, appear on the left, part of Covington on the right.
Covington
is in Kenton county, on the west side of Licking River, at its mouth, also on the south bank of the Ohio, opposite Cincinnati, and at the northern terminus of the Kentucky Central Railroad: it is 60 miles N.N.E. from Frankfort. It is built on a beautiful plain several miles in extent, and the streets are so arranged as to appear, from the hills back of Cincinnati, as a continuation of that city, of which, with Newport, it is a suburb. The facilities of communication are such that many persons reside here, whose places of business are in Cincinnati. Its manufacturing interests are extensive and varied. A magnificent suspension bridge is now constructing over the Ohio, to connect Covington with Cincinnati. Population about 15,000.
Newport
is on a handsome plain, on the Ohio River, opposite Cincinnati: it is separated from Covington by Licking River, with which it is connected by a beautiful suspension bridge. An U. S. arsenal and barracks are located here. It contains several rolling mills, iron founderies, steam mills, etc. Population about 8,000.
The valley of the Ohio, a short distance from the Licking, was the scene of a most sanguinary event years before white men had settled in this vicinity. It was Rogers' defeat and massacre, which occurred in the fall of 1779, at which time this spot, and the site of the now flourishing city of Cincinnati, opposite, was one dense forest:
Col. David Rogers and Capt. Benham, with 100 men, were in two large keel boats, on their way from New Orleans, with supplies of ammunition and provisions for the western posts. In October, when near the mouth of the Licking, a few Indians were seen, and supposing himself to be superior in numbers, Rodgers landed to attack them, and was led into an ambuscade of 400 Indians. The whites fought with desperation, but in a furious onset with tomahawk and scalping-knife, the commander, with about ninety of his men, were soon dispatched. The escape of Capt. Benham was almost miraculous. A shot passed through both legs, shattering
The Blue Lick Springs
is a watering place of high repute on the Licking River, in Nicholas county, 19 miles from Lexington, and 80 miles south-easterly from Covington. At an early period, the Licks became a place of much importance to the settlers, as it was chiefly here that they procured, at great labor and expense, their supply of salt. In modern times it has become a fashionable place of resort, the accommodations greatly extended, and the grounds improved and adorned. The Blue Lick water has become an article of commerce, several thousand barrels being annually exported.
It was at this place, on the 19th of Aug., 1782, that a bloody battle was fought with the Indians, “which shrouded Kentucky in mourning,” and, next to St. Clair's defeat, has become famous in the annals of savage warfare. Just prior to this event, the enemy had been engaged in the siege of Bryant's Station, a post on the Elkhorn, about five miles from Lexington. As the battle was a sequel to the other, we give the narrative of the first in connection, as described in McClung's Sketches:
In the summer of 1782, 600 Indians, under the influence of the British at Detroit, assembled at old Chillicothe, to proceed on an expedition to exterminate the
“Long Knife
” from Kentucky, and on the night of the 14th of August, this body gathered around Bryant's Station. The fort itself contained about forty cabins, placed in parallel lines, connected by strong palisades, and garrisoned by forty or fifty men. It was a parallelogram of thirty rods in length by twenty in breadth, forming an inclosure of nearly four acres, which was protected by digging a trench four or five feet deep, in which strong and heavy pickets were planted by ramming the earth well down against them. These were twelve feet out of the ground, being formed of hard, durable timber, at least a foot in diameter. Such a wall, it must be obvious, defied climbing or leaping, and indeed any means of attack, cannon excepted. At the angles were small squares or block-houses, which projected beyond the palisades, and served to impart additional strength at the corners, as well as permitted the besieged to pour a raking fire across the advanced party of the assailants. Two folding gates were in front and rear, swinging on prodigious wooden hinges, sufficient for the passage in and out of men or wagons in times of security. These were of course provided with suitable bars.
This was the state of things, as respects the means of defense, at Bryant's Station on the morning of the 15th of August, 1782, while the savages lay concealed in the thick weeds around it, which in those days grew so abundantly and tall, as would have sufficed to conceal mounted horsemen. They waited for daylight, and the opening of the gates for the garrison to get water for the day's supply from an adjacent spring, before they should commence the work of carnage.
It seems that the garrison here were rather taken off their guard. Some of the palisade work had not been secured as permanently as possible, and the original party which built the fort had been tempted, in the hurry of constructing and their fewness of hands, to restrict its extent, so as not to include a spring of water within its limits. Great as were these disadvantages, they were on the eve of exposure to a still greater one, for had the attack been delayed a few hours, the garrison would have been found disabled by sending off a reinforcement to a neighboring station —Holder's settlement—on an unfounded alarm that it was attacked by a party of savages. As it was, no sooner had a few of the men made their appearance outside of the gate than they were fired on, and compelled to regain the inside.
According to custom, the Indians resorted to stratagem for success. A detachment of one hundred warriors attacked the south-east angle of the station, calculating to draw the entire body of the besieged to that quarter to repel the attack, and thus enable the residue of the assailants, five hundred strong, who were on the opposite side in ambush near the spring, to take advantage of its unprotected situation, when the whole force of the defense should be drawn off to resist the assault at the south-east. Their purpose, however, was comprehended inside, and instead of returning the fire of the smaller party, they secretly dispatched an express to Lexington for assistance, and began to repair the palisades, and otherwise to put themselves in the best possible posture of defense.
The more experienced of the garrison felt satisfied that a powerful party was in ambuscade near the spring, but at the same time, they supposed that the Indians would not unmask themselves until the firing upon the opposite side of the fort was returned with such warmth as to induce the belief that the feint had succeeded. Acting upon this impression, and yielding to the urgent necessity of the case, they summoned all the women, without exception, and explaining to them the circumstances in which they were placed, and the improbability that any injury would be offered them until the firing had been returned from the opposite side of the fort, they urged them to go in a body to the spring and each to bring up a bucket full of water. Some of the ladies had no relish for the undertaking, and asked why the men could not bring water as well as themselves? observing that
they
were not bullet-proof, and that the Indians made no distinction between male and female scalps. To this it was answered, that the women were in the habit of bringing water every morning to the fort, and that if the Indians saw them engaged as usual, it would induce them to believe that their ambuscade was undiscovered, and that they would not unmask themselves for the sake of firing upon a few women, when they hoped, by remaining concealed a few moments longer, to obtain complete possession of the fort. That if
men
should go down to the spring the Indians would immediately suspect that something was wrong, would despair of succeeding by ambuscade, and would instantly rush upon them, follow them into the fort, or shoot them down at the spring. The decision was soon over. A few of the boldest declared their readiness to brave the danger, and the younger and more timid rallying in the rear of these veterans, they all marched down in a body to the spring, within point blank shot of five hundred Indian warriors! Some of the girls could not help betraying symptoms of terror, but the married women, in general, moved with a steadiness and composure which completely deceived the Indians. Not a shot was fired. The party were permitted to fill their buckets one after another, without interruption, and although their steps became quicker and quicker on their return, and when near the fort degenerated into a rather unmilitary celerity, attended with some little crowding at the gate, yet not more than one fifth of the water was spilled.
When an ample supply of water had been thus obtained, and the neglected defenses completed, a party of thirteen men sallied out in the direction in which the assault had been made. They were fired on by the savages, and driven again within the palisades, but without sustaining any loss of life. Immediately the five hundred on the opposite side rushed to the assault of what they deemed the unprotected side of the fort, without entertaining any doubts of their success. A well directed fire, however, put them promptly to flight. Some of the more daring and desperate approached near enough with burning arrows to fire the houses, one or two of which were burned, but a favorable wind drove the flames away from the
Disappointed of their object thus far, the assailants retreated, and concealed themselves under the bank of the creek to await and intercept the arrival of the assistance which they were well aware was on its way from Lexington. The express from Bryant's Station reached that town without difficulty, but found its male inhabitants had left there to aid in the defense of Holder's Station, which was reported to be attacked. Following their route, he overtook them at Boonesborough, and sixteen mounted men, with thirty on foot, immediately retraced their steps for the relief of the besieged at Bryant's. When this reinforcement approached the fort, the firing had entirely ceased, no enemy was visible, and the party advanced in reckless confidence that it was either a false alarm, or that the Indians had abandoned the siege. Their avenue to the garrison was a lane between two cornfields, which growing rank and thick formed an effectual hiding place to the Indians at the distance of a few yards. The line of ambush extended on both sides nearly six hundred yards. Providentially it was in the heat of midsummer, and dry accordingly, and the approach of the horsemen raised a cloud of dust so thick as to compel the enemy to fire at random, and the whites happily escaped without losing a man. The footmen, on hearing the firing in front, dispersed amidst the corn, in hopes of reaching the garrison unobserved. Here they were intercepted by the savages, who threw themselves between them and the fort, and but for the luxuriant growth of corn they must all have been shot down. As it was, two men were killed and four wounded of the party on foot, before it succeeded in making its way into the fort.
Thus reinforced, the garrison felt assured of safety, while in the same measure the assailing party began to despair of success.
One expedient remained, which was resorted to for the purpose of intimidating the brave spirits who were gathered for the defense of their wives and little ones. As the shades of evening approached, Girty, who commanded the party, addressed the inmates of the fort. Mounting a stump, from which he could be distinctly heard, with a demand for the surrender of the place, he assured the garrison that a reinforcement with cannon would arrive that night, that the station must fall, that he could assure them of protection if they surrendered, but could not restrain the Indians if they carried the fort by storm; adding, he supposed they knew who it was that thus addressed them. A young man, named Reynolds, fearing the effect which the threat of cannon might have on the minds of the defending party, with the fate of Martin's and Ruddle's Stations fresh in their memories, left no opportunity for conference, by replying instantly, that he knew him well, and held him in such contempt that he had called a good for nothing dog he had by the name of Simon Girty. ‘Know you,’ added he, ‘we all know you for a renegade cowardly villain, that delights in murdering women and children? Wait until morning, and you will find on what side the reinforcements are. We expect to leave not one of your cowardly souls alive, and if
you
are caught, our women shall whip you to death with hickory switches. Clear out, you cut-throat villain.’ Some of the Kentuckians shouted out, ‘Shoot the d—d rascal!’ and Girty was glad to retreat out of the range of their rifles lest some one of the garrison might be tempted to adopt the advice.
The night passed away in uninterrupted tranquillity, and at daylight in the morning the Indian camp was found deserted. Fires were still burning brightly, and several pieces of meat were left upon their roasting sticks, from which it was inferred that they had retreated just before daybreak.
Battle of the Blue Licks.
—Early in the day reinforcements began to drop in, and by noon 167 men were assembled at Bryant's Station, among whom were Cols. Boone, Todd, and Trigg; Majors Harland, McBride, M'Gary, and Levy Todd; and Captains Bulzer and Gordon; of the last six named, except Todd and M'Gary, all fell in the subsequent battle. A tumultuous conversation ensued, and it was unanimously resolved to pursue the enemy forthwith, notwithstanding that they were three to one in numbers. The Indians, contrary to their usual custom, left a broad and obvious trail, and manifested a willingness to be pursued. Notwithstanding,
The next day, about noon, they came, for the first time, in view of the enemy at the Lower Blue Licks. A number of Indians were seen ascending the rocky ridge on the opposite side of the Licking. They halted upon the appearance of the Kentuckians, and gazed at them a few moments, and then calmly and leisurely disappeared over the top of the hill. An immediate halt ensued. A dozen or twenty officers met in front of the ranks and entered into a consultation. The wild and lonely aspect of the country around them, their distance from any point of support, with the certainty of their being in the presence of a superior enemy, seems to have inspired a portion of seriousness bordering upon awe. All eyes were now turned upon Boone, and Col. Todd asked his opinion as to what should be done. The veteran woodsman, with his usual unmoved gravity, replied:
That their situation was critical and delicate; that the force opposed to them was undoubtedly numerous and ready for battle, as might readily be seen from the leisurely retreat of the few Indians who had appeared on the crest of the hill; that he was well acquainted with the ground in the neighborhood of the Lick, and was apprehensive that an ambuscade was formed at the distance of a mile in advance, where two ravines, one upon each side of the ridge, ran in such a manner that a concealed enemy might assail them at once both in front and flank, before they were apprised of the danger.
It would be proper, therefore, to do one of two things. Either to await the arrival of Logan, who was now undoubtedly on his march to join them, with a strong force from Lincoln, or, if it was determined to attack without delay, that one half of their number should march up the river, which there bends in an elliptical form, cross at the rapids and fall upon the rear of the enemy, while the other division attacked in front. At any rate, he strongly urged the necessity of reconnoitering the ground carefully before the main body crossed the river.
Boone was heard in silence and with deep attention. Some wished to adopt the first plan; others preferred the second; and the discussion threatened to be drawn out to some length, when the boiling ardor of M'Gary, who could never endure the presence of an enemy without instant battle, stimulated him to an act, which had nearly proved destructive to his country. He suddenly interrupted the consultation with a loud whoop, resembling the war-cry of the Indians, spurred his horse into the stream, waved his hat over his head, and shouted aloud: ‘Let all who are not cowards follow me!’ The words and the action together, produced an electrical effect. The mounted men dashed tumultuously into the river, each striving to be foremost. The footmen were mingled with them in one rolling and irregular mass.
No order was given, and none observed. They struggled through a deep ford as well as they could, M'Gary still leading the van, closely followed by Majors Harland and McBride. With the same rapidity they ascended the ridge, which, by the trampling of Buffalo foragers, had been stripped bare of all vegetation, with the exception of a few dwarfish cedars, and which was rendered still more desolate in appearance, by the multitude of rocks, blackened by the sun, which was spread over its surface.
Suddenly the van halted. They had reached the spot mentioned by Boone, where the two ravines head, on each side of the ridge. Here a body of Indians presented themselves, and attacked the van. M'Gary's party instantly returned the fire, but under great disadvantage. They were upon a bare and open ridge; the Indians in a bushy ravine. The center and rear, ignorant of the ground, hurried up to the assistance of the van, but were soon stopped by a terrible fire from the ravine, which flanked them. They found themselves inclosed as if in the wings of a net, destitute of proper shelter, while the enemy were, in a great measure, covered from their fire. Still, however, they maintained their ground. The action became warm and bloody. The parties gradually closed, the Indians emerged from the ravine, and the fire became mutually destructive. The officers suffered dreadfully. Todd and Trigg, in the rear; Harland, McBride, and young Boone, in front, were already killed.
The Indians gradually extended their line, to turn the right of the Kentuckians,
Several hundred Indians were between him and the ford, to which the great mass of the fugitives were bending their flight, and to which the attention of the savages was principally directed. Being intimately acquainted with the ground, he, together with a few friends, dashed into the ravine which the Indians had occupied, but which most of them had now left to join in the pursuit. After sustaining one or two heavy fires, and baffling one or two small parties, who pursued him for a short distance, he crossed the river below the ford, by swimming, and entering the wood at a point where there was no pursuit, returned by a circuitous route to Bryant's Station. In the meantime, the great mass of the victors and vanquished crowded the bank of the ford.
The slaughter was great in the river. The ford was crowded with horsemen and foot and Indians, all mingled together. Some were compelled to seek a passage above by swimming; some, who could not swim, were overtaken and killed at the edge of the water. A man by the name of Netherland, who had formerly been strongly suspected of cowardice, here displayed a coolness and presence of mind, equally noble and unexpected.
Being among the first in gaining the opposite bank, he then instantly checked his horse, and in a loud voice, called upon his companions to halt, fire upon the Indians, and save those who were still in the stream. The party instantly obeyed, and facing about, poured a close and fatal discharge of rifles upon the foremost of the pursuers. The enemy instantly fell back from the opposite bank, and gave time for the harrassed and miserable footmen to cross in safety. The check, however, was but momentary. Indians were seen crossing in great numbers above and below, and the flight again became general. Most of the foot left the great buffalo track, and plunging into the thickets, escaped by a circuitous route to Bryant's Station.
But little loss was sustained after crossing the river, although the pursuit was urged keenly for twenty miles. From the battle-ground to the ford, the loss was very heavy; and at that stage of the retreat, there occurred a rare and striking instance of magnanimity, which it would be criminal to omit. The reader could not have forgotten young Reynolds, who replied with such rough but ready humor to the pompous summons of Girty, at the siege of Bryant's. This young man, after bearing his share in the action with distinguished gallantry, was galloping with several other horsemen in order to reach the ford. The great body of fugitives had preceded them, and their situation was in the highest degree critical and dangerous.
About half way between the battle-ground and the river, the party overtook Capt. Patterson, on foot, exhausted by the rapidity of the flight, and in consequence of former wounds received from the Indians, so infirm as to be unable to keep up with the main body of the men on foot. The Indians were close behind him, and his fate seemed inevitable. Reynolds, upon coming up with this brave officer, instantly sprung from his horse, aided Patterson to mount into the saddle, and continued his own flight on foot. Being remarkably active and vigorous, he contrived to elude his pursuers, and turning off from the main road, plunged into the river near the spot where Boone had crossed, and swam in safety to the opposite side. Unfortunately he wore a pair of buckskin breeches, which had become so heavy and full of water as to prevent his exerting himself with his usual activity, and while sitting down for the purpose of pulling them off, he was overtaken by a party of Indians, and made prisoner.
58
A prisoner is rarely put to death by the Indians, unless wounded or infirm, until they return to their own country; and then his fate is decided in solemn council. Young Reynolds, therefore, was treated kindly, and compelled to accompany his captors in the pursuit. A small party of Kentuckians soon attracted their attention; and he was left in charge of three Indians, who, eager in pursuit, in turn committed him to the charge of one of their number, while they followed their companions. Reynolds and his guard jogged along very leisurely; the former totally unarmed; the latter, with a tomahawk and rifle in his hands. At length the Indian stopped to tie his moccasin, when Reynolds instantly sprung upon him, knocked him down with his fist, and quickly disappeared in the thicket which surrounded them. For his act of generosity, Capt. Patterson afterward made him a present of two hundred acres of first rate land.
The melancholy intelligence rapidly spread throughout the country, and the whole land was covered with mourning, for it was the severest loss that Kentucky had ever experienced in Indian warfare. Sixty Kentuckians were slain and a number taken prisoners. The loss of the Indians, while the battle lasted, was also considerable, though far inferior to that of the whites.
On the very day of the battle, Col. Logan arrived at Bryant's Station with four hundred and fifty men. Fearful of some disaster, he marched on with the utmost diligence, and soon met the foremost of the fugitives. Learning from them the sad tidings, he continued on, hoping to come up with the enemy at the field of battle, which he reached on the second day. The enemy were gone, but the bodies of the Kentuckians still lay unburied on the spot where they had fallen. Immense flocks of buzzards were soaring over the battle ground, and the bodies of the dead had become so much swollen and disfigured, that it was impossible to recognize the features of the most particular friends. Many corpses were floating near the shore of the northern bank, already putrid, from the action of the sun, and partially eaten by fishes. The whole were carefully collected by Col. Logan, and interred as decently as the nature of the soil would permit.”
South-western view of Lexington Court House.
Lexington,
the county seat of Fayette county, is a remarkably neat and beautiful city, situated on a branch of Elkhorn River, 25 miles S.E. from Frankfort, 85 from Cincinnati, 77 S.E. from Louisville, and 517 from Washington City. The streets of Lexington are laid out at right angles, well paved, and bordered with ornamental trees. Many of the private residences and several of the public edifices are fine specimens of architectural taste, while the surrounding country, rich and highly cultivated, is adorned with elegant mansions. The city contains a court house, a Masonic Hall, the State Lunatic Asylum, 12 churches, the Transylvania University, several academies and an orphan asylum. It is celebrated throughout the Union for
Lexington was founded in 1776. About the first of April in this year, a block house was built here, and the settlement commenced under the influence of Col. Robert Patterson, joined by the Messrs. McConnels, Lindseys, and James Masterson. Maj. John Morrison removed his family soon after from Harrodsburg, and his wife was the first white woman in the infant settlement. It appears that a party of hunters in 1775, while encamped on the spot where Lexington is now built, heard of the first conflict between the British and Provincial forces, at Lexington, Mass. In commemoration of this event, they called the place of their encampment
Lexington.
Transylvania University, the oldest college in the state, was established in 1798, and has departments of law and medicine. The medical school has eight professors. Connected with the institution is a fine museum and a very valuable library, with chemical apparatus, etc. The State Lunatic Asylum located here is a noble institution. Lexington was incorporated by Virginia in 1782, and was for several years the seat of government of the state. The
“Kentucky Gazette
” was established here in 1787, by the brothers John and Fielding Bradford, and, excepting the Pittsburg Gazette, is the oldest paper west, of the Alleghany Mountains.
Ashland, The Home Of Henry Clay.
* A friend tells us that he recollects attending, in a distant New England city, an impromptu political meeting which had gathered in a public hall at this time. Various speeches of condolence had been made by those, who, in their ardor, had regarded the success of their candidate as identified with the salvation of their country, when an aged man, with silvered hair, arose to offer comfort in the general sorrow. He had but three words; but, Christian-like, he started for those three straightway to the
Ashland
, the home of
Henry Clay,
is about one and a half miles from Lexington. Mr. Clay lived at Ashland between forty and fifty years. His house was a modest, spacious, agreeable mansion, two stories high. Since the death of Mr. Clay, this building having become somewhat dilapidated and insecure, his son, James B. Clay, Esq., had it taken down and a more elegant edifice erected upon the same spot, and with but slight modifications of the original plan. Mr. Clay has many interesting relics of his father, which are carefully preserved in the new building. The estate, consisting of about 600 acres, bore the name of Ashland before it came into the possession of Mr. Clay, probably on account of the ash timber, with which it abounds. By Mr. C.'s management, it became one of the most delightful retreats in the west; the whole tract, except about 200 acres of park, was under the highest state of cultivation. When its illustrious occupant was living, it was the abode of elegant hospitality, and thousands then annually thronged thither to pay their respects to the statesman, who had such a hold upon the affections of his countrymen that, when he was defeated for the presidency, an intensity of sorrowBible. He raised his tall slender form to its full hight, with palms uplifted, and then bowing submissively, uttered in prayerful tones—
“The Lord reigns!”
No where is there a more delightful rural tract in all our broad land, than that part of this state in the vicinity of Lexington—the celebrated “blue grass” region of Kentucky. For miles and miles, in every direction, it is bedecked with graceful curving lawns, wood embowered cottages, and tall open forests, where not a shrub rises to mar the velvety sward that every where carpets the earth in living green. Enter the dwellings, and you will find them the abodes of elegance and taste. Your reception will be frank and hospitable. The town, Lexington, is well worthy of the country. It has a highly cultivated population, institutions of literature, elegant mansions, partly concealed in groves of locusts, whose tiny fragile leaves gently dance in the sunlight to the softest zephyr, and is, moreover, the home of one whose very name holds a dear place in our memories.
In a minor street of this beautiful town, is a plain two story brick edifice, over the doors of which is the sign, H. & J. B. CLAY. One morning, a few weeks since, I entered its plainly furnished office, and, in the absence of its occupants, helped myself to a chair and a newspaper, that industrious whig sheet, the New York Tribune. In a few minutes in walked a tall, elderly gentleman, attired in black coat and white pantaloons. My eyes had never before rested upon him, but it needed not a second glance to know
Henry Clay.
I presented a letter of introduction, upon which, after some little conversation, he invited me out to tea at his seat, Ashland, some twenty minutes walk from the central part of the town. At the appointed hour, I was on my way thither, and from a gate on the roadside approached the mansion by a winding path of maybe thirty rods in length. It stands on a smooth, undulating lawn of the purest green, fringed by a variety of trees. The open door disclosed to my view two elderly ladies, seated in one of the three rooms into which a common entry led. One of them, Mrs. Clay, called to me to walk in, and directed me to the flower garden in the rear of the house, where stood Judge R., of Ohio, and her husband. The former, as I was introduced by Mr. Clay, received me with the stiffness of the north—the latter met me in the cordial, off hand manner of an old acquaintance. He then showed us some rare plants, joked with his little grandchild, and we entered the house. Passing through the room where sat his lady and the wife of the judge, he pleasantly said—“these ladies have some conspiracy together, let us walk into the parlor.” On the hearth was an elegant rug, with the words worked in it, “
Protection To American Industry;
” around were busts and paintings. The furniture was old fashioned, but rich, and an air of comfort pervaded the apartment. Among the curiosities shown us by Mr. Clay, was the identical wine glass used by Washington through the Revolution.
The conversation of Mr. Clay is frequently anecdotical, and his knowledge of all parts of our country, their condition, prospects and people, renders it easy for him to adapt himself in familiar topics to the great variety of characters that assemble at his residence. His manner is one of entire ease. Taking out a golden snuff box, he drew in a pinch of its exhilarating powder with an air of solid satisfaction; then spreading his handkerchief in his lap, he leaned forward his whole body, with his forearms folded and resting on his knees, and talked with us in the most genial, social way, like a fine, fatherly, old country gentleman—as, indeed, he is.
Now that I have seen Henry Clay, I do not wonder at the hold he has upon the affections of our people. Benevolence is the strongest expression in his countenance, and the humblest individual can not but feel, in his presence, as much at ease as if by his own fireside. His manner is irresistible: such as would enable him, if need there was, to say disagreeable things in a way that would occasion you to thank him for it. Literally, his is the power to give “hard facts with soft words.”
When Henry Clay walks the streets of Lexington, the citizens gaze upon him with pride, and greet him with pleasure. A kind word and a smile he has for every body, no matter what their age, sex, or condition; and little children run up
Henry Clay Monument.
Situated about a mile from the central part of Lexington, near the Railroad from Covington, in the Lexington Cemetery.
The corner stone of the Monument erected to Henry Clay, in the Lexington Cemetery, was laid July 4, 1857, with imposing ceremonies, and the structure completed in 1858. It is constructed of magnesian limestone, obtained from Boone's Creek, about 14 miles distant. The remains of Henry Clay, his mother, and some other relatives, are to be deposited in the vaulted chamber in the base of the monument. At the top of the column, the flutings are 13 spiked spears, representing the original states of the Union. The statue of Clay, surmounting the whole, is 11 feet in hight. The hight of the monument from the ground to the top of the statue is 119 feet. The following inscription appears on one of the blocks of stone: “I would rather be right, than be President.”
National Guard, St. Louis, July 4th, 1857.
The following inscription is copied from the monument of Maj. Barry, in the public square, or court house yard:
To the memory of
William Taylor Barry,
this monument is erected by his friends in Kentucky (the site being granted by the County Court of Fayette), as a testimony of their respect and admiration of his virtues and talents. He was born 5th Feb., 1784, in Lunenburg City, Va., and came to Kentucky in his 12th year. Was successively a member of both Houses of the General Assembly, a Judge, a Senator and Representative in Congress, Lieut. Gov. of Ky., and an Aidecamp to Gov. Shelby at the battle of the Thames. On Andrew Jackson's accession to the Presidency, he was called to his Cabinet as Post Master General, which office he held until 1st of May, 1835, when he was appointed Env. Ex. & Min. Plen. to Spain. He was elected Hon'y Member of the French Univ. Stat. Soc., in June, 1833. He died at Liverpool, on his way to Madrid, on 30th Aug., 1835. His body lies on Albion's white shores; his Fame in the History of his Country, and is as immortal as America's Liberty and Glory.
About twenty miles south-east of Lexington, on the south bank of the Kentucky River, is the small, dilapidated village of Boonesborough, a point noted in the history of the state. It was here that Daniel Boone, the great pioneer, built the first fort ever erected in Kentucky, and made the commencement of a permanent settlement. Here, too, was convened more than eighty years ago the first legislative assembly that ever sat west of the mountains, the legislature of
Transylvania
, the history of which is as follows:
“Col. Richard Henderson, a man of ardent temperament and great talents, formed the most extensive speculation ever recorded in the history of this country. Having
Old Fort At Boonesborough, 1775.
* Mr. Henderson was born in Hanover county, Virginia, in 1735. When a boy his father removed to North Carolina and became county sheriff, and the son obtained much of his education in his father's office. He studied law, showed talents of the highest order, and was elevated to the bench of the superior court. In 1779, Judge Henderson was appointed commissioner to extend the boundary line between Virginia and North Carolina into Powell's Valley. In the same year he opened an office at French Lick, afterward Nashville, for the sale of his lands. He died in 1785, aged 50 years. His four sons studied law and attained distinction.
The fort at Boonesborough was built in 1775. The engraving is from a drawing by Col. Henderson. The structure must have been about 260 feet
“There were nearly five hundred Indian warriors, armed and painted in the usual manner, and what was still more formidable, they were conducted by Canadian officers, well skilled in the usages of modern warfare. As soon as they were arrayed in front of the fort, the British colors were displayed, and an officer, with a flag, was sent to demand the surrender of the fort, with a promise of quarter and good treatment in case of compliance, and threatening the ‘hatchet’ in case of a storm. Boone requested two days for consideration, which, in defiance of all experience and common sense, was granted. This interval, as usual, was employed in preparation for an obstinate resistance. The cattle were brought into the fort, the horses secured, and all things made ready against the commencement of hostilities.
Boone then appeared at the gate of the fortress, and communicated to Capt. Duquesne, their leader, the resolution of his men to defend the fort to the last extremity. Disappointment and chagrin were strongly painted upon the face of the Canadian at this answer, but endeavoring to disguise his feelings, he declared that Gov. Hamilton had ordered him not to injure the men if it could be avoided, and that if nine of the principal inhabitants of the fort would come out and treat with them they would instantly depart without further hostility.
The word
“treat
” sounded so pleasantly in the ears of the besieged that they agreed at once to the proposal, and Boone himself, attended by eight of his men, went out and mingled with the savages, who crowded around them in great numbers, and with countenances of deep anxiety. The treaty then commenced and was soon concluded, upon which Duquesne informed Boone that it was a custom with the Indians, upon the conclusion of a treaty with the whites, for two warriors to take hold of the hand of each white man.
Boone thought this rather a singular custom, but there was no time to dispute about etiquette, particularly, as he could not be more in their power than he already was, so he signified his willingness to conform to the Indian mode of cementing friendship. Instantly, two warriors approached each white man, with the word ‘brother’ upon their lips, but a very different expression in their eyes, and grappling him with violence, attempted to bear him off. They probably (unless totally infatuated) expected such a consummation, and all at the same moment sprung from their enemies and ran to the fort, under a heavy fire, which fortunately only wounded one man.
The attack instantly commenced by a heavy fire against the picketing, and was returned with fatal accuracy by the garrison. The Indians quickly sheltered themselves, and the action became more cautious and deliberate. Finding but little effect from the fire of his men, Duquesne next resorted to a more formidable mode of attack. The fort stood on the south bank of the river, within sixty yards of the water. Commencing under the bank, where their operations were concealed from the garrison, they attempted to push a mine into the fort. Their object, however, was fortunately discovered by the quantity of fresh earth which they were compelled to throw into the river, and by which the water became muddy for some distance below. Boone, who had regained his usual sagacity, instantly cut a trench within the fort in such a manner as to intersect the line of their approach, and thus frustrated their design.
The enemy exhausted all the ordinary artifices of Indian warfare, but were steadily repulsed in every effort. Finding their numbers daily thinned by the deliberate but fatal fire of the garrison, and seeing no prospect of final success, they broke up on the ninth day of the siege, and returned home. The loss of the garrison was two men killed and four wounded. On the part of the savages, thirty-seven were killed and many wounded, who, as usual, were all carried off.”
Danville
, county seat of Boyle county, is situated in a fertile district of country, on a small branch of the Kentucky River, 40 miles south from Frankfort and 35 from Lexington. It contains 9 churches, 2 banks, the Kentucky
Paris, Shelbyville, Cynthiana, Versailles, Carrolton, Georgetown
and
Bardstown
are all important towns in this part of the state, the largest of which has a population of 2,500. That well known Catholic institution, St. Joseph's College, is at Bardstown, and Georgetown College is at Georgetown.
Paducah
, the seat of justice for McCracken county, situated at the mouth of Tennessee River, is an important shipping port, 347 miles below Louisville. It is a place of active business, and a great amount of agricultural products are brought down the Tennessee River to this place, consisting of tobacco, pork, live stock, etc., it being the depot for the product of the valley of that stream. It has large warehouses, 2 banks, 10 churches, a large number of stores, an about 5,000 inhabitants. It was laid out in 1827 by General William Clark, of St. Louis, brother of Gen. George Rogers Clark, and named after the Indian chief Paducah, who once resided in this region. The town is substantially built, and has a very thriving appearance, being the largest and most important place in Kentucky west of Louisville. Hon. Linn Boyd resided in this vicinity, where he died in 1859. He was speaker of the house of representatives from 1851 to 1855, and in 1852 was prominent as a candidate of the democratic party for the nomination for the presidency.
Henderson
, capital of Henderson county, 12 miles below Evansville and 210 below Louisville, is the principal shipping point on the Ohio for the tobacco, corn and other rich products of the fertile valley of Green River. It is a thriving business town, and has about 3,000 inhabitants.
Smithland
, on the Ohio, just below the mouth of the Cumberland, is a point for the reshipment of goods up that river.
Owensboro
, capital of Daviess county, 155 miles below Louisville, on the Ohio;
Hickman
, capital of Fulton county, on the Mississippi, 35 miles below the mouth of the Ohio, in the extreme south-western corner of the state, are both busy towns, each having about 2,500 inhabitants.
Bowling Green, Hopkinsville
and
Russelville
are county seats and important interior towns in Lower Kentucky, with each from 2,000 to 3,000 inhabitants.
Columbus
, a village of about 1,200 inhabitants on the Mississippi, 25 miles below Cairo, is the terminus of the Mobile and Ohio Railroad.
Landing At Paducah.
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, MISCELLANIES, ETC.
Kentucky, next to Virginia, is the greatest tobacco producing state in the Union. The statistics of 1850 gave her total product at 55½ millions of pounds, while that of Virginia exceeded it but a little over a million. The plant is most extensively cultivated in western Kentucky, in the Green River country and vicinity; and the greatest tobacco raising county is Christian, the annual yield of which is six millions of pounds. This part of the state was much settled by Virginians, who followed out the general law of emigrants, of especially cultivating those crops to which they had been accustomed on the soil of their birth.
“It is a curious fact in the history of tobacco that the exports from this country have varied but very little in the last fifty years; in 1790, our country, in round numbers, sent abroad one hundred and eighteen thousand hogsheads; in 1840, one hundred and nineteen thousand. This is one of the most curious facts developed in statistics, and may probably be directly traced to the fact that the population and wealth of European countries have not increased, and that the duties levied upon its introduction are as high as can possibly be borne. No article of commerce pays a duty so enormous, compared with its home price, as American tobacco. From it is derived an important part of the revenue of almost every European government. In Great Britain, the import duty is three shillings sterling (seventy-five cents) per pound—about twelve hundred per cent. upon the original cost—and two dollars per pound on manufactured tobacco; thus for what her people give us less than two millions of dollars they pay to their own government, for the privilege of using it, twenty-two millions of dollars, which is twice the sum realized by the American producer for all the tobacco exported to every part
A Tobacco Plantation.
The amount of the present production of tobacco is about two hundred millions of pounds. The home consumption is increasing faster than the population. Its use is most detrimental to our people by increasing their mental activity at the expense of their bodies, through its continual strain upon the nervous system and weakening of the appetite and digestive organs. It is at the seasons of greatest excitement that he who uses the plant is certain to do so in unwonted quantities. A young volunteer, relating his experience at the battle of Buena Vista, truthfully remarked, though in coarse phrase, “Our boys
chawed
lots of tobacco that day!” So fascinating the habit, that few can break from it; and he who succeeds should be more honored than he who storms a battery. Multitudes essay the trial; generally, they only make the good resolution at the precise moment when under the exhilerating influence of a quid of extra size revolving against the inner wall of their cheek. The corresponding depression that succeeds the disuse is continually pressing for the stimulus, with a power akin to that of a raging thirst, day in and day out, week in and week out, month in and month out, until finally a weak moment arrives, when the will gives way and the victim flies for relief to his chains again—only to repeat in the future a similar futile attempt to escape his enslavement. A gentleman who had ceased using it for five years stated that the desire was even then continually upon him, and he “would give anything” for the indulgence, were it not for the accompanying suffering that he knew would accrue. Probably few persons use tobacco to excess but acknowledge to themselves that, in their individual experience, the sum of misery from it a thousand fold outweighs the su sum of gratification.
It is often amusing to witness the resolution with which those who use tobacco part even temporarily from the indulgence. “Fanny Kemble used to relate, with great gusto, a cigar adventure she met with while traveling in Georgia. It appears that the day was hot, the roads rough, and she an invalid—the passengers in the stage, herself and a gentleman. As the heavy vehicle rumbled along, there mingled, with the dust that constantly penetrated its interior, the fumes of a most execrable cigar. Every blast of the ‘Stygian fume’ sent a tremor of deadly sickness through Fanny's heart. The gentleman, her traveling companion, remonstrated with the driver, explained the mischief he was doing, and promised the independent Jehu, at the end of the journey, the reward of twenty-five choice Havanas if he would throw away his vile weed. The driver's reply was, ‘Yes, yes, in a minute,’ but the evil complained of continued until finally it became insufferable. Then it was that Fanny leaned out of the coach window and said, ‘Sir, I appeal to your generosity to throw away that cigar, and I know, from the proverbial politeness of the Americans, that my request will be granted.’ ‘Yes, yes,’ said the driver, with some trepidation, ‘I intended to do it, but I wanted first to smoke it short enough to put in my hat!’”
EARLY TIMES AMONG THE PIONEERS OF KENTUCKY.
That eccentric and talented Methodist preacher, Peter Cartwright, has given in his autobiography some valuable reminiscences of life among the pioneers of Kentucky, from which we extract this article as a valuable contribution to the history of the times:
I was born September 1, 1785, in Amherst county, on James River, in the state
It was a dark, cloudy day, misty with rain. Many Indians were seen through the day skulking, round by our guards. Late in the evening we came to what was called “Camp Defeat,” where a number of emigrant families had been all murdered by the savages a short time before. Here the company called a halt to camp for the night. It was a solemn, gloomy time; every heart quaked with fear.
Soon the captain of our young men's company placed his men as sentinels all round the encampment. The stock and the women and children were placed in the center of the encampment. Most of the men that were heads of families, were placed around outside of the women and children. Those who were not placed in this position, were ordered to take their stand outside still, in the edge of the brush. It was a dark, dismal night, and all expected an attack from the Indians.
That night my father was placed as a sentinel, with a good rifle, in the edge of the brush. Shortly after he took his stand, and all was quiet in the camp, he thought he heard something moving toward him, and grunting like a swine. He knew that there was no swine with the moving company, but it was so dark he could not see what it was. Presently he perceived a dark object in the distance, but nearer him than at first, and believing it to be an Indian, aiming to spring upon him and murder him in the dark, he leveled his rifle, and aimed at the dark lump as well as he could, and fired. He soon found he had hit the object, for it flounced about at a terrible rate, and my father gathered himself up and ran into camp.
When his gun fired, there was an awful screaming throughout the encampment by the women and children. My father was soon inquired of as to what was the matter. He told them the circumstances of the case, but some said he was scared and wanted an excuse to come in; but he affirmed that there was no mistake, that there was something, and he had shot it; and if they would get a light and go with him, if he did not show them something, then they might call him a coward forever. They got a light and went to the place, and there found an Indian, with a rifle in one hand and a tomahawk in the other, dead. My father's rifle-ball had struck the Indian nearly central in the head.
When we came within seven miles of the Crab Orchard, where there was a fort and the first white settlement, it was nearly night. We halted, and a vote was taken whether we should go on to the fort, or camp there for the night. Indians had been seen in our rear through the day. All wanted to go through except seven families, who refused to go any further that night. The main body went on, but they, the seven families, carelessly stripped off their clothes, laid down without any guards, and went to sleep. Some time in the night, about twenty-five Indians rushed on them, and every one, men, women, and children, was slain, except one man, who sprang from his bed and ran into the fort, barefooted and in his night clothes. He brought the melancholy news of the slaughter. These murderous bands of savages lived north of the Ohio River, and would cross over into Kentucky, kill and steal, and then recross the Ohio into their own country.
Kentucky was claimed by no particular tribe of Indians, but was regarded as a common hunting-ground by the various tribes, east, west, north, and south. It
In the fall of 1793, my father determined to move to what was then called the Green River country, in the southern part of the state of Kentucky. He did so, and settled in Logan county, nine miles south of Russellville, the county seat, and within one mile of the state line of Tennessee.
Logan county, when my father moved to it, was called “Rogues Harbor.” Here many refugees, from almost all parts of the Union, fled to escape justice or punishment; for although there was law, yet it could not be executed, and it was a desperate state of society. Murderers, horse thieves, highway robbers, and counterfeiters fled here until they combined and actually formed a majority. The honest and civil part of the citizens would prosecute these wretched banditti, but they would swear each other clear; and they really put all law at defiance, and carried on such desperate violence and outrage that the honest part of the citizens seemed to be driven to the necessity of uniting and combining together, and taking the law into their own hands, under the name of Regulators. This was a very desperate state of things.
Shortly after the Regulators had formed themselves into a society, and established their code of by-laws, on a court day at Russellville, the two bands met in town. Soon a quarrel commenced, and a general battle ensued between the rogues and Regulators, and they fought with guns, pistols, dirks, knives, and clubs. Some were actually killed, many wounded, the rogues proved victors, kept the ground, and drove the Regulators out of town. The Regulators rallied again, hunted, killed, and lynched many of the rogues, until several of them fled, and left for parts unknown. Many lives were lost on both sides, to the great scandal of civilized people. This is but a partial view of frontier life.
* The most notorious of the desperadoes who infested the settlements were two brothers named Harpe, of whom Judge Hall, in his Western Sketches, has given this narrative:
In the fall of 1801 or 1802, a company consisting of two men and three women arrived in Lincoln county, Ky., and encamped about a mile from the present town of Stanford. The appearance of the individuals composing this party was wild and rude in the extreme. The one who seemed to be the leader of the band, was above the ordinary stature of men. His frame was bony and muscular, his breast broad, his limbs gigantic. His clothing was uncouth and shabby, his exterior, weatherbeaten and dirty, indicating continual exposure to the elements, and designating him as one who dwelt far from the habitations of men, and mingled not in the courtesies of civilized life. His countenance was bold and ferocious and exceedingly repulsive, from its strongly marked expression of villainy. His face, which was larger than ordinary, exhibited the lines of ungovernable passion, and the complexion announced that the ordinary feelings of the human breast were in him extinguished. Instead of the healthy hue which indicates the social emotions, there was a livid unnatural redness, resembling that of a dried and lifeless skin. His eye was fearless and steady, but it was also artful and audacious, glaring upon the beholder with an unpleasant fixedness and brilliancy, like that of a ravenous animal gloating on its prey. He wore no covering on his head, and the natural protection of thick coarse hair, of a fiery redness, uncombed and matted, gave evidence of long exposure to the rudest visitations of the sunbeam and the tempest. He was armed with a rifle, and a broad leathern belt, drawn closely around his waist, supported a knife and a tomahawk. He seemed, in short, an outlaw, destitute of all the nobler sympathies of human nature, and prepared at all points for assault or defense. The other man was smaller in size than him who led the party, but similarly armed, having the same suspicious exterior, and a countenance equally fierce and sinister. The females were coarse, and wretchedly attired.
The men stated in answer to the inquiry of the inhabitants, that their names were Harpe, and that they were emigrants from North Carolina. They remained at their encampment the greater part of two days and a night, spending the time in rioting, drunkenness and debauchery. When they left, they took the road leading to Green River. The day succeeding their departure, a report reached the neighborhood that a young gentleman of wealth from Virginia, named Lankford, had been robbed and murdered on what was then called, and is still known as the “Wilderness Road,” which runs through the Rock-castle hills. Suspicion immediately fixed upon the Harpes as the perpetrators, and Captain Ballenger, at the head of a few bold and resolute men, started in pursuit. They experienced great difficulty in following their trail, owing to a heavy fall of snow, which had obliterated most of their tracks, but finally came upon them while encamped in a bottom on Green River, near the spot where the town of Liberty now stands. At first they made a show of resistance, but upon being informed that if they did not immediately surrender, they would be shot down, they yielded themselves prisoners. They were brought back to Stanford, and there examined. Among their effects were found some fine linen shirts, marked with the initials of Lankford. One had been pierced by a bullet and was stained with blood. They had also a considerable sum of money, in gold. It was afterward ascertained that this was the kind of money Lankford had with him. The evidence against them beihg thus conclusive, they were confined in the Stanford jail, but were afterward sent for trial to Danville, where the district court was in session. Here they broke jail, and succeeded in making their escape.
They were next heard of in Adair county, near Columbia. In passing through that county, they met a small boy, the son of Colonel Trabue, with a pillow-case of meal or flour, an article they probably needed. This boy, it is supposed, they robbed and then murdered, as he was never afterward heard of. Many years afterward, human bones, answering the size of Colonel Trabue's son at the time of his disappearance, were found in a sink hole near the place where he was said to have been murdered. The Harpes still shaped their course toward the mouth of Green River, marking their path by murders and robberies of the most horrible and brutal character. The district of country through which they passed was at that time very thinly settled, and from this reason their outrages went unpunished. They seemed inspired with the deadliest hatred against the whole human race, and such was their implacable misanthropy, that they were known to kill where there was no temptation to rob. One of their victims was a little girl, found at some distance from her home, whose tender age and helplessness would have been protection against any but incarnate fiends. The last dreadful act of barbarity, which led to their punishment and expulsion from the country, exceeded in atrocity all the others.
Assuming the guise of Methodist preachers, they obtained lodgings one night at a solitary house on the road. Mr. Stagall, the master of the house, was absent, but they found his wife and children, and a stranger, who, like themselves, had stopped for the night. Here they conversed and made inquiries about the two noted Harpes, who were represented as prowling about the country. When they retired to rest, they contrived to secure an ax, which they carried with them to their chamber. In the dead of night, they crept softly down stairs, and assassinated the whole family, together with the stranger, in their sleep, and then setting fire to the house, made their escape. When Stagall returned, he found no wife to welcome him; no home to receive him. Distracted with grief and rage, he turned his horse's head from the smoldering ruins, and repaired to the house of Captain John Leeper. Leeper was one of the most powerful men of his day, and fearless as powerful. Collecting four or five other men well armed, they mounted and started in pursuit of vengeance. It was agreed that Leeper should attack “Big Harpe,” leaving “Little Harpe” to be disposed of by Stagall. The others were to hold themselves in readiness to assist Leeper and Stagall, as circumstances might require.
This party found the women belonging to the Harpes attending to their little camp by the road side; the men having gone aside into the woods to shoot an unfortunate traveler, of the name of Smith, who had fallen into their hands, and whom the women had begged might not be dispatched before their eyes. It was this halt that enabled the pursuers to overtake them. The women immediately gave the alarm, and the miscreants, mounting their horses, which were large, fleet and powerful, fled in separate directions. Leeper singled out the Big Harpe, and being better mounted than his companions, soon left them far behind. Little Harpe succeeded in escaping from Stagall, and he, with the rest of his companions, turned and followed the track of Leeper and Big Harpe. After a chase of about nine miles, Leeper came within gun shot of the latter and fired. The ball entering his thigh, passed through it and penetrated his horse, and both fell. Harpe's gun escaped from his hand and rolled some eight or ten feet down the bank. Reloading his rifle Leeper ran to where the wounded outlaw lay weltering in his blood, and found him with one thigh broken and the other crushed beneath his horse. Leeper rolled the horse away, and set Harpe in an easier position. The robber begged that he might not be killed. Leeper told him that he had nothing to fear from him, but that Stagall was coming up, and could not probably be restrained. Harpe appeared very much frightened at hearing this, and implored Leeper to protect him. In a few moments Stagall appeared, and without uttering a word, raised his rifle and shot Harpe through the head. They then severed the head from the body, and stuck it upon a pole where the road crosses the creek, from which the place was then named and is yet called
Harpe's Head. Thus perished one of the boldest and most noted freebooters that has ever appeared in America. Save courage, he was without one redeeming quality, and his death freed the country from a terror which had long paralyzed its boldest spirits.
The Little Harpe afterward joined the band of Mason, and became one of his most valuable assistants in the dreadful trade of robbery and murder. He was one of the two bandits that, tempted by the reward for their leader's head, murdered him, and eventually themselves suffered the penalty of the law as previously related.
When my father settled in Logan county, there was not a newspaper printed south of Green River, no mill short of forty miles, and no schools worth the name.
We raised our own cotton and flax. We water-rotted our flax, broke it by hand, scutched it; picked the seed out of the cotton with our fingers; our mothers and sisters carded, spun, and wove it into cloth, and they cut and made our garments and bed-clothes, etc. And when we got on a new suit thus manufactured, and sallied out into company, we thought ourselves
“so big as anybody.
”
Time rolled on, population increased fast around us, the country improved, horse-thieves and murderers were driven away, and civilization advanced considerably. Ministers of different denominations came in, and preached through the country;Ebenezer
a few miles south.
Somewhere between 1800 and 1801, in the upper part of Kentucky, at a memorable place called “Cane Ridge,” there was appointed a sacramental meeting by some of the Presbyterian ministers, at which meeting, seemingly unexpected by ministers or people, the mighty power of God was displayed in a very extraordinary manner; many were moved to tears, and bitter and loud crying for mercy. The meeting was protracted for weeks. Ministers of almost all denominations flocked in from far and near. The meeting was kept up by night and day. Thousands heard of the mighty work, and came on foot, on horseback, in carriages and wagons. It was supposed that there were in attendance at times during the meeting from twelve to twenty-five thousand people. Hundreds fell prostrate under the mighty power of God, as men slain in battle. Stands were erected in the woods, from which preachers of different churches proclaimed repentance toward God and faith in our Lord Jesus Christ, and it was supposed, by eye and ear witnesses, that between one and two thousand souls were happily and powerfully converted to God during the meeting. It was not unusual for one, two, three, and four to seven preachers to be addressing the listening thousands at the same time from the different stands erected for the purpose. The heavenly fire spread in almost every direction. It was said, by truthful witnesses, that at times more than one thousand persons broke out into loud shouting all at once, and that the shouts could be heard for miles around.
From this camp-meeting, for so it ought to be called, the news spread through all the Churches, and through all the land, and it excited great wonder and surprise; but it kindled a religious flame that spread all over Kentucky, and through many other states. And I may here be permitted to say, that this was
the first camp-meeting ever held in the United States
, and here our camp-meetings took their rise.
To show the ignorance the early Methodist preachers had to contend with in the western wilds, I will relate an incident that occurred to Wilson Lee, in Kentucky:
There was in the congregation a very wicked Dutchman and his wife, both ofscold
, and so much was she given to this practice, that she made her husband unhappy, and kept him almost always in a perfect fret, so that he led a most miserable and uncomfortable life. It pleased God that day to cause the reaching of Mr. Lee to reach their guilty souls, and break up the great deep of their hearts. They wept aloud, seeing their lost condition, and they, then and there, resolved to do better, and from that time forward to take up the cross and bear it, be it what it might.
A Religious Encampment in the Wilderness.
The congregation were generally deeply affected. Mr. Lee exhorted them and prayed for them as long as he consistently could, and, having another appointment some distance off that evening, he dismissed the congregation, got a little refreshment, saddled his horse, mounted, and started for his evening appointment. After riding some distance, he saw, a little ahead of him, a man trudging along, carrying a woman on his back. This greatly surprised Mr. Lee. He very naturally supposed that the woman was a cripple, or had hurt herself in some way, so that she could not walk. The traveler was a small man, and the woman large and heavy.
Before he overtook them Mr. Lee began to cast about in his mind how he could render them assistance. When he came up to them, lo and behold, who should it be but the Dutchman and his wife that had been so affected under his sermon at meeting. Mr. Lee rode up and spoke to them, and inquired of the man what had happened, or what was the matter, that he was carrying his wife.
The Dutchman turned to Mr. Lee and said, “Besure you did tell us in your sarmon dat we must take up de cross and follow de Saviour, or dat we could not be saved or go to heaven, and I does desire to go to heaven so much as any pody; and dish vife is so pad, she scold and scold all de time, and
dish, woman is de createst cross I have in de whole world, and I does take her up and pare her, for I must save my soul.
”
From 1801, for years, a blessed revival of religion spread through almost the entire inhabited parts of the west, Kentucky, Tennessee, the Carolinas, and many other parts, especially through the Cumberland country, which was so called from the Cumberland River, which headed and mouthed in Kentucky, but in its great
In this revival originated our camp-meetings, and in both these denominations they were held every year, and, indeed, have been ever since, more or less. They would erect their camps with logs, or frame them, and cover them with clapboards or shingles. They would also erect a shed, sufficiently large to protect five thousand people from wind and rain, and cover it with boards or shingles; build a large stand, seat the shed, and here they would collect together from forty to fifty miles around, sometimes further than that. Ten, twenty, and sometimes thirty ministers, of different denominations, would come together and preach night and day, four or five days together; and, indeed, I have known these camp-meetings to last three or four weeks, and great good resulted from them. I have seen more than a hundred sinners fall like dead men under one powerful sermon, and I have seen and heard more than five hundred Christians all shouting aloud the high praises of God at once; and I will venture to assert that many happy thousands were awakened and converted to God at these camp-meetings. Some sinners mocked, some of the old dry professors opposed, some of the old starched Presbyterian preachers preached against these exercises, but still the work went on and spread almost in every direction, gathering additional force, until our country seemed all coming home to God.
In this great revival the Methodists kept moderately balanced; for we had excellent preachers to steer the ship or guide the flock. But some of our members ran wild, and indulged in some extravagancies that were hard to control. The Presbyterian preachers and members, not being accustomed to much noise or shouting, when they yielded to it went into great extremes and downright wildness, to the great injury of the cause of God.
Daniel Boone
Col. Daniel Boone
, the celebrated pioneer of Kentucky, was born of English parentage, in Pennsylvania, in 1734. When a small boy, his parents emigrated to the banks of the Yadkin, in North Carolina. “At that time the region beyond the Blue Ridge was an unknown wilderness to the white people, for none had ventured thither, as far as is known, until about the year 1750. It was almost twenty years later than this, when Boone was approaching the prime of life, that he first penetrated the great Valley of the Mississippi, in company with others. He had already, as a bold hunter, been within the eastern verge of the present Kentucky, but now he took a long ‘hunt’ of about three years. He had made himself familiar with the wilderness, and in 1773, in company with other families, he started with his own to make a settlement on the
Kain-tuck-ee
River. The hostile Indians compelled them to fall back, and Boone resided on the Clinch River until 1775, when he went forward and planted the settlement of Boones borough, in the present Madison county, Kentucky. There he built a log fort, and in the course of three or four years several other settlers joined him. His wife and daughters were the first white women ever seen upon the banks of the Kentucky River. He became a great annoyance to the Indians, and while at the Blue Licks, on the Licking River, in February, 1778, engaged with others in making salt, he was captured by some Shawnee warriors from the Ohio country, and taken to Chillicothe. The Indians became attached to him, and he was adopted into a family as a son. A ransom of five hundred dollars was offered for him, but the Indians refused it. He at length escaped (in July following his capture), when he ascertained that a large body of Indians were preparing to march against Boones-borough. They attacked that station three times before the middle of September, but were repulsed. During Boone's captivity, his wife and children had returned to the house of her father, on the Yadkin, where the pioneer visited them in 1779, and remained with them for many months. He returned to Kentucky in 1780, with his family, and assisted Colonel Clark in his operations against the Indians in the Illinois country.”
At the close of the war, Boone settled down quietly upon his farm. But he was not long permitted to remain unmolested. His title, owing to the imperfect nature of the land laws of Kentucky, was legally decided to be defective, and Boone was deprived of all claim to the soil which he had explored, settled, and so bravely defended. In 1795, disgusted with civilized society, he sought a new home in the wilds of the far west, on the banks of the Missouri, then within the dominion of Spain. He was treated there with kindness and attention by the public authorities, and he found the simple manners of that frontier people exactly suited to his peculiar habits and temper. With them he spent the residue of his days, and was gathered to his fathers, Sept. 26th, 1820, in the 86th year of his age. He was buried in a coffin which he had had made for years, and placed under his bed, ready to receive him whenever he should be called from these earthly scenes. In the summer of 1845, his remains were removed to Frankfort, In person, Boone was five feet ten inches in hight, and of robust and powerful proportions. He was ordinarily attired as a hunter, wearing a hunting shirt and moccasins. His biographer, who saw him at his residence, on the Missouri River, but a short time before his death, says that on his introduction to Col. Boone, the impressions were those of surprise, admiration and delight. In boyhood, he had read of Daniel Boone, the pioneer of Kentucky, the celebrated hunter and Indian fighter, and imagination had portrayed a rough, fierce-looking, uncouth specimen of humanity, and of spect the reverse appeared. His high, bold forehead was slightly bald, and his silver locks were combed smooth; his countenance was ruddy and fair, and exhibited the simplicity of a child. His voice was soft and melodious; a smile frequently played over his features in conversation; his clothing was the coarse, plain manufacture of the family, but everything about him denoted that kind of comfort which was congenial to his habits and feelings, and evinced a happy old age. His room was part of a range of log cabins, kept in order by his affectionate daughter and granddaughter, and every member of the household appeared to delight in administering to the comforts of “grandfather Boone,” as he was familiarly called.
When age had enfeebled his once athletic frame, he made an excursion, twice a year, to some remote hunting ground, employing a companion, whom he bound by a written contract to take care of him, and should he die in the wilderness to bring his body to the cemetery which he had selected as a final resting place.
George Rogers Clark
was born in Albemarle county, Virginia, in 1752. He possessed a most extraordinary military genius, and became conspicuously prominent in the conquest and settlement of the whole west. “He first appeared in history as an adventurer beyond the Alleghanies, in 1772. He had been engaged in the business of land-surveyor for some time, and that year he went down the Ohio in a canoe as far as the mouth of the Great Kanawha, in company with Rev. David Jones, then on his way to preach the gospel to the western tribes. He was captain of a company in Dunmore's army, which marched against the Indians on the Ohio and its tributaries, in 1774. Ever since his trip in 1772, he ardently desired an opportunity to explore those deep wildernesses in the great valleys, and in 1775 he accompanied some armed settlers to Kentucky, as their commander. During that and the following year, he traversed a great extent of country south of the Ohio, studied the character of the Indians, and made himself master of many secrets which aided in his future success. He beheld a beautiful country, inviting immigration, but the pathway to it was made dangerous by the enemies of the colonists, who sallied forth from the British posts at Detroit, Kaskaskia and Vincennes, with Indian allies. Convinced of the necessity of possessing these posts Clark submitted the plan of an expedition against them to the Virginia legislature, and early in the spring of 1778 he was at the falls of the Ohio (now Louisville) with four companies of soldiers. There he was joined by Simon
59
“Gen. Charles Scott
was a native of Cumberland county, Virginia. He raised the first company of volunteers in that state, south of the James River, that actually entered into the continental service. So much was he appreciated that in 1777 the shire-town of Powhattan county was named in honor of him. Congress appointed him a brigadier in the continental army on the 1st of April, 1777. He served with distinction during the war, and at its termination he went to Kentucky. He settled in Woodford county, in that state, in 1785. He was with St. Clair at his defeat in 1791, and in 1794 he commanded a portion of Wayne's army at the battle of the Fallen Timber. He was governor of Kentucky from 1808 to 1812. He died on the 22d of October, 1820, aged seventy-four years.”
Scott was a man of strong natural powers, but somewhat illiterate and rough in his manners. He was eccentric, and many amusing anecdotes are related of him. When a candidate for governor, he was opposed by Col. Allen, a native of Kentucky, who, in an address to the people when Scott was present, made an eloquent appeal. The friends of the latter, knowing he was no orator, felt distressed for him, but Scott, nothing daunted, mounted the stump, and addressed the company nearly as follows:
“Well, boys, I am sure you must all be well pleased with the speech you have just heard. It does my heart good to think we have so smart a man raised up among us here. He is a native Kentuckian. I see a good many of you here that I brought out to this country when a wilderness. At that time we hardly expected we should live to see such a smart man raised up among ourselves. You who were with me in those early times know we had no time for education, no means of improving from books. We dared not then go about our most common affairs without arms in our hands, to defend ourselves against the Indians. But we guarded and protected the country, and now every one can go where he pleases, and you now see what smart fellows are growing up to do their country honor. But I think it would be a pity to make this man governor; I think it would be better to send him to Congress. I don't think it requires a very smart man to make a governor, if he has sense enough to gather smart men about who can help him on with the business of state. It
Gen. Benjamin Logan
, one of the most distinguished pioneers, was born in Virginia, of Irish parentage, about the year 1742. He was a sergeant in Boquet's expedition, and was in Dunmore's campaign. In 1775, he came to Kentucky with Boone, Henderson, and others. The next year he brought out his family, and established a fort , called “Logan's Fort,” which stood at St. Asaph's, about a mile west of the present town of Stanford, in Lincoln county. That period is memorable in the history of Kentucky, as one of peculiar peril. The woods literally swarmed with Indians. Having been reinforced by several white men, Logan determined to maintain himself at all hazards.
“On the 20th of May, 1777, this fort was invested by a force of a hundred Indians; and on the morning of that day, as some of the females belonging to it were engaged, outside of the gate, in milking the cows, the men who acted as the guard for the occasion, were fired upon by a party of the Indians, who had concealed themselves in a thick canebrake. One man was shot dead, another mortally wounded, and a third so badly, as to be disabled from making his escape; the remainder made good their retreat into the fort, and closed the gate. Harrison, one of the wounded men, by a violent exertion, ran a few paces and fell. His struggles and exclamations attracted the notice, and awakened the sympathies, of the inmates of the station. The frantic grief of his wife gave additional interest to the scene. The enemy forbore to fire upon him, doubtless from the supposition that some of the garrison would attempt to save him, in which event they were prepared to fire upon them from the canebrake. The case was a trying one; and there was a strong conflict between sympathy and duty, on the part of the garrison. The number of effective men had been reduced from fifteen to twelve, and it was exceedingly hazardous to put the lives of any of this small number in jeopardy; yet the lamentations of his family were so distressing, and the scene altogether so moving, as to call forth a resolute determination to save him if possible. Logan, always alive to the impulses of humanity, and insensible to fear, volunteered his services, and appealed to some of his men to accompany him. Bat so appalling was the danger, that all, at first, refused. At length, John Martin consented, and rushed, with Logan, from the fort; but he had not gone far, before he shrunk from the imminence of the danger, and sprung back within the gate. Logan paused for a moment, then dashed on, alone and undaunted—reached, unhurt, the spot where Harrison lay— threw him on his shoulders, and, amidst a tremendous shower of rifle balls, made a safe and triumphant retreat into the fort.
The fort was now vigorously assailed by the Indian force, and as vigorously defended by the garrison. The men were constantly at their posts, whilst the women were actively engaged in molding bullets. But the weakness of the garrison was not their only grievance. The scarcity of powder and ball, one of the greatest inconveniences to which the settlers were not unfrequently exposed, began now to be seriously felt. There were no indications that the siege would be speedily abandoned; and a protracted resistance seemed impracticable, without an additional supply of the munitions of war. The settlements on Holston could furnish a supply—but how was it to be obtained? And, even if men could be found rash and desperate enough to undertake the journey, how improbable was it that the trip could be accomplished in time for the relief to be available. Logan stepped forward, in this extremity, determined to take the dangerous office upon himself. Encouraging his men with the prospect of a safe and speedy return, he left the fort under cover of the night, and, attended by two faithful companions of his own selection, crept cautiously through the Indian lines without discovery. Shunning the ordinary route through Cumberland Gap, he moved, with incredible rapidity, over mountain and valley—arrived at the settlement on the Holston—procured the necessary supply of powder and lead—immediately retraced his steps, and was again in the fort in ten days from the time of his departure. He returned alone. The necessary delay in the transportation of the stores, induced him to intrust them to the charge of his companions; and his presence at St. Asaph's was all-important to the safety of its inhabitants. His return inspired them with fresh courage; and, in a few days, the appearance of Col. Bowman's party compelled the Indians to retire.”
In the year 1779, Logan was first in command under Bowman, in his expedition against the Indian town of Chillicothe. It failed through the imbecility of the commander; but Logan gained great credit for his bravery and generalship on the occasion. In the summer of 1788, he conducted a successful expedition against the Indians in the Miami country. From this period until his death, Gen. Logan devoted
Gov. Isaac Shelby
, the first governor of Kentucky, and the “hero of two wars,” was of Welsh descent, and was born near Hagarstown, Maryland, in 1750. At the age of 21 years he emigrated to Virginia, and engaged as a surveyor there, and in 1775, in Kentucky. Early in the Revolution he was, for a time, in the commissary department; but later, in 1780, he was commissioned as a colonel by Virginia, and raised 300 riflemen. He gained great distinction in several actions, especially in the important battle of King's Mountain, the turning point of the Revolution in the south. He was the most prominent officer in this celebrated victory, and originated the expedition which led to it. After this he served under Gen. Marion.
Isaac Shelby
In 1782, he was elected a member of the Legislature of North Carolina, but soon after returned to Kentucky, and settled down upon a farm for life. “He was elected the first governor of the new state, and after an interval of comparative repose, he was again the incumbent of that important office in 1812. Another war with Great Britain was then impending. The fire of 1776 still warmed his bosom, and he called his countrymen to arms, when the proclamation of war went forth. Henry Clay presented him with a sword, voted by the legislature of North Carolina for his gallantry at King's Mountain, thirty-two years before, and with that weapon he marched at the head of four thousand Kentucky volunteers, toward the Canada frontier, in 1813, though the snows of three score and three winters were upon his head. He fought gallantly upon the Thames, in Canada; and for his valor there, congress honored him with a gold medal. President Monroe appointed him secretary of war in 1817, but he declined the honor, for he coveted the repose which old age demands. His last public act was the holding of a treaty with the Chickasaw Indians, in 1818, with General Jackson for his colleague. His sands of life were now nearly exhausted. In February, 1820, he was prostrated by paralysis, yet he lived, somewhat disabled, until the 18th of July, 1826, when apoplexy terminated his life. He was then almost seventy-six years of age, and died as he had lived, with the hope of a Christian.”
Col. Richard M. Johnson
, vice president of the United States, was born at Bryat's Station, five miles north-east cast of Lexington, in Oct., 1781. The outline of the history of this one of the most distinguished natives of Kentucky, is given in the monumental inscription, copied on page 908 of this work.
“Henry Clay
was born in Hanover county, Virginia, April 12, 1777. Having received a common school education, he became at an early age, a copyist in the office of the clerk of the court of chancery, at Richmond. At nineteen he commenced the study of law, and shortly afterward removed to Lexington, Kentucky, where he was admitted to the bar in 1799, and soon obtained extensive practice. He began his political career, by taking an active part in the election of delegates to frame a new constitution for the state of Kentucky. In 1803, he was elected to the legislature by the citizens
In the session of 1819–20, he exerted himself for the establishment of protection to American industry, and this was followed by services in adjusting the Missouri Compromise. After the settlement of these questions, he withdrew from congress, in order to attend to his private affairs. In 1823 he returned to congress and was re-elected speaker; and at this session he exerted himself in support of the independence of Greece. Under John Quincy Adams, he filled the office of secretary of state; the attack upon Mr. Adams' administration, and especially upon the secretary of state, by John Randolph, led to a hostile meeting between him and Mr. Clay, which terminated without bloodshed. In 1829 he returned to Kentucky; and in 1831 was elected to the United States senate, where he commenced his labors in favor of the Tariff; in the same month of his reappearance in the senate, he was unanimously nominated for president of the United States. In 1836, he was re-elected to the senate, where he remained until 1842, when he resigned, and took his final leave, as he supposed, of that body. In 1839, he was again nominated for the presidency, but General Harrison was selected as the candidate. He also received the nomination in 1844, for president, and was defeated in this election by Mr. Polk.
He remained in retirement in Kentucky until 1849, when he was re-elected to the senate of the United States. Here he devoted all his energies to the measures known as the Compromise Acts. His efforts during this session weakened his strength, and he went for his health to Havana and New Orleans, but with no permanent advantage; he returned to Washington, but was unable to participate in the active duties of the senate, and resigned his seat, to take effect upon the 6th of September, 1852. He died in Washington City, June 29, 1852. He was interested in the success of the Colonization Society, and was for a long time one of its most efficient officers, and also its president.”
Gen, Zachary Taylor
was a Virginian born, and a Kentuckian bred. In 1785, while he was an infant a year old, his parents moved to the vicinity of Louisville. At the age of 24 years, he entered the army as lieutenant of infantry, and. continued in the service of his country until his death, while holding the position of President of the United States, July 9, 1850, at the age of 65 years. His biography is written in honorable lines in the history of his country, and his memory is warmly cherished in the hearts of her people.
Arms Of Ohio
The
territory now comprised within the limits of Ohio was, originally, part of that vast region formerly claimed by France, between the Alleghany and Rocky Mountains, known by the general name of Louisiana. It received its name from the river that forms its southern boundary. The word
Ohio
, in the Wyandot, signifies,
“fair” or “beautiful river,”
which was the name given to it by the French, the first Europeans who explored this part of the country.
The disastrous expedition, under La Salle, who was murdered by his own men, did not abate the ardor of the French in their great plan of obtaining possession of the vast region westward of the English colonies. Iberville, a French officer, having in charge an expedition, sailed from France to the Mississippi. He entered the mouth of this river, and proceeded upward for several hundred miles. Permanent establishments were made at different points, and from this time, the French colonies west of the Alleghanies increased in numbers and strength. Previous to the year 1725, the colony had been divided into quarters, each having its local governor, but all subject to the superior council general of Louisiana. One of these quarters was established north-west of the Ohio.
Before the year 1750, a French post bad been fortified at the mouth of the Wabash, and a communication opened with Canada, through that river and the Maumee. About the same time, and for the purpose of checking the French, the “Ohio Company” was formed, and made some attempts to establish trading houses among the Indians.
The claims of the different European monarchs to large portions of America, were founded on the first discoveries of their subjects. In 1609, the English monarch granted to the London Company, a tract of land two hundred miles along the coast, “up into the land throughout
from sea to sea
, west and north-west.” In 1662, Gharles II granted to certain settlers on the Connecticut,
943
In 1749, the year after the formation of the Ohio Company, it appears that the English built a trading house upon the Great Miami. In 1752, this was destroyed, after a severe battle, and the traders were carried away to Canada. This was the first British settlement in this section of which have any record. The Moravian missionaries, prior to the American Revolution, had a number of stations within the limits of Ohio. As early as 1762, the missionaries, Heckewelder and Post, were on the Muskingum.
Mary Heckewelder
, the daughter of the missionary, is said to have been the first white child born in Ohio.
After Braddock's defeat, in 1755, the Indians pushed their excursions as far as the Blue Ridge. In 1764, Gen. Bradstreet, having dispersed the Indian forces besieging Detroit, passed into the Wyandot country by way of Sandusky Bay. A treaty of peace was signed by the chiefs and bead men. The Shawnees, of the Scioto River, and the Delawares, of the Muskingum, however, still continued hostile. Col. Boquet, in 1764, with a body of troops, marched from Fort Pitt into the heart of the Ohio country, on the Muskingum River. This expedition was conducted with great prudence and skill, and with scarcely any loss of life. A treaty of peace was effected with the Indians, who restored the prisoners they had captured from the white settlements. The next war with the Indians was Lord Dunmore's, in 1774. In the fall of the year, the Indians were defeated at Point Pleasant, on the Virginia side of the Ohio. Shortly after, peace was made with the Indians at Camp Charlotte, a few miles north of the site of the city of Chillicothe.
During the Revolutionary war, most of the western Indians were more or less united against the Americans. In the summer of 1780, Gen. Clark led a body of Kentuckians against the Shawnees. Old Chillicothe, on the Little Miami, was burnt on their approach, but at Piqua, on Mad River, six miles below the site of Springfield, they gave battle to the whites and were defeated. Their towns, Upper and Lower Piqua, were destroyed. In March, 1782, a party of Americans, in cold blood, murdered 94 of the defenseless Moravian Indians, within the limits of Tuscarawas county. In June following, Col. Crawford, at the head of about 500 men, was defeated by the Indians, three miles north of the site of Upper Sandusky, in Wyandot county. Col. Crawford was taken prisoner in the retreat, and burnt at the stake with horrible tortures.
After the close of the Revolutionary war, the states which owned western unappropriated lands, with a single exception, ceded their lands to the United States. Virginia, in 1784, ceded all her claim to lands north-west of the Ohio. In 1786, Connecticut also ceded her claim of soil and jurisdiction to all the territory within her chartered limits west of Pennsylvania. She also, in May, 1801, ceded her jurisdictional claims to all that territory called the “Western Reserve of Connecticut.” New York and Massachusetts also ceded all their claims. Numerous tribes of Indians, by virtue of their prior possession, asserted their respective claims, which, also, had to be extinguished, for which purpose treaties with the several tribes were made at various times.
The Indian title to a large part of the territory within the limits of Ohio having become extinguished, legislative action on the part of congress became necessary before commencing settlements. In 1785, they passed an ordinance for determining the mode of disposing of these lands. Under that
In October, 1787, the U. S. board of treasury sold to Manassah Cutler and Winthrop Sargeant, the agents of the New England Ohio Company, a tract of land, bounded by the Ohio, from the mouth of the Scioto to the intersection of the western boundary of the seventh range of townships then surveying: thence by said boundary to the northern boundary of the tenth township from the Ohio, etc. These bounds were altered in 1792. The settlement of this purchase commenced at Marietta, at the mouth of the Muskingum, in the spring of 1788, and was the first settlement formed in Ohio.
The same year in which Marietta was first settled, congress appointed Gen. Arthur St. Clair governor. The territorial government was organized, laws were made or adopted by the governor and Judges Parsons and Varnum. The county of Washington, embracing about half the territory within the present limits of Ohio, was established by the proclamation of the governor. A short time after the settlement had commenced, an association was formed under the name of the
“Scioto Land Company.
” A contract was made for the purchase of part of the lands of the Ohio Company. Plans and descriptions of these lands being sent to France, they were sold to companies and individuals. On Feb. 19, 1791, two hundred and eighteen of these purchasers left France, and arrived at Alexandria, Va., from whence they went to Marietta, where about fifty of them landed: the remainder of them proceeded to Gallipolis, which was laid out about that time. Their titles to the lands proving defective, congress, in 1798, granted them a tract on the Ohio, above the mouth of the Scioto River, called the
“French Grant.
”
In January, 1789, a treaty was made at Fort Harmar, between Gov. St. Clair and the Wyandots, Chippewas, Pottawatomies, and Sacs, in which former treaties were renewed. It did not, however, produce the favorable results anticipated. The Indians, the same year, assumed a hostile appearance, hovered around the infant settlements at the mouth of the Muskingum, and between the Miamis. Nine persons were killed, the new settlers became alarmed, and block houses were erected.
Negotiations with the Indians proving unavailing, Gen. Harmar was directed to attack their towns. He marched from Cincinnati, in Sept., 1790, with 1,300 men, and went into the Indian country near the site of Fort Wayne, in north-western Indiana, and, after some loss, succeeded in burning towns, and destroying standing corn, but the object of the expedition in intimidating the Indians was entirely unsuccessful. As the Indians continued hostile, a new army was assembled Cincinnati, consisting of about 3,000 men, under the command of Gov. St. Clair, who commenced his march toward the Indian towns on the Maumee. On the 4th of Nov., 1791, when near the present northern line of Darke county, the American army was surprised about half an hour before sunrise, as there is good reason to believe, by the whole disposable force of the north-west tribes. The Americans were totally defeated: upward of six hundred were killed, among whom was Gen. Butler.
In the spring of 1794, an American army assembled at Greenville, in Darke county, under the command of Gen. Anthony Wayne, consisting of about 2,000 regular troops, and 1,500 mounted volunteers from Kentucky.
At this period there was no fixed seat of government. The laws were passed whenever they seemed to be needed, at any place where the territorial legislators happened to assemble. The population of the territory continued to increase and extend. From Marietta, settlers spread into the adjoining country. The Virginia military reservation drew a considerable number of Revolutionary veterans and others from that state. The region between the Miamis, from the Ohio far upward toward the sources of Mad River, became chequered with farms. The neighborhood of Detroit became populous, and Connecticut, by grants of land within the tract reserved in her deed of cession, induced many of her citizens to seek a home on the borders of Lake Erie.
The territorial legislature first met in 1799. An act was passed confirming the laws enacted by the judges and governor, the validity of which had been doubted. This act, as well as every other which originated in the council, was prepared and brought forward by Jacob Burnet, afterward a distinguished judge and senator, to whose labors, at this session, the territory was indebted for some of its most beneficial laws. William H. Harrison, then secretary of the territory, was elected delegate to congress. In 1802, congress having approved the measure, a convention assembled in Chillicothe and formed a state constitution, which became the fundamental law of the state by the act of the convention alone, and. by this act Ohio became one of the states of the federal union.
The first general assembly under the state constitution met at Chillicothe, March 1, 1803. Eight new counties were made at this session, viz: Gallia, Scioto, Franklin, Columbiana, Butler, Warren, Greene and Montgomery. In 1805, the United States, by a treaty with the Indians, acquired for the use of the grantees of Connecticut all that part of the Western Reserve which lies west of the Cuyahoga. By subsequent treaties, all the country watered by the Maumee and Sandusky was acquired, and the Indian title to lands in Ohio is now extinct.
About the year 1810, the Indians, who, since the treaty at Greenville, had been at peace, began to commit depredations upon the western settlers. The celebrated Tecumseh was active in his efforts to unite the native tribes against the Americans, and to arrest the further extension of the settlements. In 1811, Gen. Harrison, then governor of Indiana territory, marched against the Indians on the Wabash. The battle of Tippecanoe ensued, in which the Indians were totally defeated. In the war of 1812, with Great Britain, Ohio bore her full share in the contest. Her sons volunteered with alacrity their services in the field, and hardly a battle was fought in the north-west in which some of these citizen soldiers did not seal their devotion to their country in their blood.
In 1816, the seat of government was removed to Columbus. In 1817, the
Ohio is bounded N. by Michigan and Lake Erie, E. by Pennsylvania and Virginia, W. by Indiana, and southerly by Kentucky and Virginia, being separated from these last named two states by the Ohio River, which washes the borders of the state, through its numerous meanderings, for a distance of more than 430 miles. It is about 220 miles long from E. to W., and 200 from N. to S., situated between 38° 32′ and 42° N. Lat., and between 80° 35′ and 84° 40′ W. Long. The surface of the state covers an area of about 39,964 square miles, or 25,576, 960 acres, of which about one half are improved.
The land in the interior of the state and bordering on Lake Erie is generally level, and in some places marshy. From one quarter to one third of the territory of the state, comprising the eastern and southern parts bordering on the Ohio River, is hilly and broken. On the margin of the Ohio, and several of its tributaries, are alluvial lands of great fertility. The valleys of the Scioto and the Great and Little Miami are the most extensive sections of level, rich and fertile lands in the state. In the north-west section of the state is an extensive tract of great fertility, called the “Black Swamp,” much of which, since the year 1855, has been opened into farms with unprecedented rapidity. Though Ohio has no elevations which may be termed mountains, the center of the state is about 1,000 feet above the level of the sea. The summit of the abrupt hills bordering on the Ohio, several hundred feet high, are nearly on a level with the surrounding country through which the rivers have excavated their channels in the lapse of ages.
Ohio possesses in abundance the important minerals of coal and iron. The bituminous coal region commences at the Ohio River, and extends in a belt, between the Scioto and Muskingum Rivers, nearly to Lake Erie. Great quantities of iron ore are found in the same section in a bed about 100 miles long by 12 wide, said to be superior to any other in the United States for the finer castings. Salt springs are frequent and very valuable. Marble and freestone, well adapted for building purposes, abound. Almost all parts are suitable for agricultural purposes, and the state ranks among the first in the products of the soil. Indian corn is the staple production. Large crops of wheat, great quantities of pork, butter, cheese and wool are annually produced. The grain crops of Ohio are very large; the estimate for 1860, a favorable year, was: Indian corn, 80 millions of bushels; wheat, 30 millions; and oats, 20 millions. It is estimated that the whole state has the natural capacity to feed 18 millions of people. Population in 1800 was 45,365; in 1820, 581,434; in 1850, 1,980,408, and in 1860, 2,377,917.
Marietta,
the capital of Washington county, and oldest town in the state, is beautifully situated on the left or east bank of the Muskingum, at its confluence with the Ohio, 104 miles south-east of Columbus, 62 below Wheeling, Va., and 300, by the river, above Cincinnati. It is built principally on level ground, surrounded by beautiful scenery. Many of the houses are constructed with great neatness, having fine gardens, and ornamental trees and
In the autumn of 1785, a detachment of U. S. troops, under the command of Maj. Doughty, commenced the erection of Fort Harmar, on the west bank of the Muskingum. It was named in honor of Col. Harmar, to whose regiment Major Doughty was attached. In the autumn of 1787, the directors of the Ohio Company organized in New England, preparatory to a settlement. In the course of the winter following, a party of about 40 men, under the superintendence of Col. Rufus Putnam, proceeded over the Alleghanies by the old Indian path which had been opened into Braddock's road. and boats being constructed, they proceeded down the river, and on the 7th of April, 1788, landed at the mouth of the Muskingum, and laid the foundation of the state of Ohio.
“As St. Clair, who had been appointed governor the preceding October, had not yet arrived, it became necessary to erect a temporary government for their internal security, for which purpose a set of laws was passed and published, by being nailed to a tree in the village, and Return Jonathan Meigs was appointed to administer them. It is a strong evidence of the good habits of o the people of the colony, that during three months but one difference occurred, and that was compromised. Indeed, a better set of men altogether could scarce have been selected for the purpose than Putnam's little band. Washington might well say, ‘no colony in America was ever settled under such favorable auspices as that which was first commenced at the Muskingum. Information, property and strength will be its characteristics. I know many of the settlers personally, and there never were men better calculated to promote the welfare of such a community.’
On the 2d of July, a meeting of the directors and agents was held on the banks of the Muskingum, for the purpose of naming the new-born city and public squares. As the settlement had been merely ‘The Muskingum,’ the name Marietta was now formally given to it, in honor of Marie Antoinette.
Southern View Of The Ancient Mound, Marietta.
The engraving shows the appearance of the Mound as seen from the dwelling of Mr. Rosseter, in Marietta, opposite the grave-yard. Its base is a regular circle, 115 feet in diameter; its perpendicular altitude is 30 feet. It is surrounded by a ditch 4 feet deep and 15 wide, defended by a parapet 4 feet high, through which is a gate-way.
On the 4th of July, an oration was delivered by James M. Varnum, who, with S. H. Parsons and John Armstrong, had been appointed to the judicial bench of the territory, on the 16th of October, 1787. Five days later, the governor arrived, and the colony began to assume form. The ordinance of 1787 provided two district grades of government for the north-west territory, under the first of which the whole power was in the hands of the governor and three judges, and this form was at once organized upon the governor's arrival. The first law, which was ‘for regulating
From that time forward, notwithstanding the doubt yet existing as to the Indians, all at Marietta went on prosperously and pleasantly. On the 2d of September, the first court was held, with becoming ceremonies, which was the first civil court ever convened in the territory north-west of the Ohio.
‘The procession was formed at the Point (where most of the settlers resided), in the following order: 1st, the high sheriff, with his drawn sword; 2d, the citizens; 3d, the officers of the garrison at Fort Harmar; 4th, the members of the bar; 5th, the supreme judges; 6th, the governor and clergyman; 7th, the newly appointed judges of the court of common pleas, generals Rufus Putnam and Benj. Tupper.
They marched up a path that had been cut and cleared through the forest to Campus Martius Hill (stockade), where the whole counter-marched, and the judges (Putnam and Tupper) took their seats. The clergyman, Rev. Dr. Cutler, then invoked the divine blessing. The sheriff, Col. Ebenezer Sproat (one of nature's nobles), proclaimed with his solemn ‘Oh yes’ that a court is opened for the administration of even-handed justice to the poor and the rich, to the guilty and the innocent, without respect of persons; none to be punished without a trial by their peers, and then in pursuance of the laws and evidence in the case.’ Although this scene was exhibited thus early in the settlement of the state, few ever equaled it in the dignity and exalted character of its principal participators. Many of them belong to the history of our country, in the darkest as well as most splendid periods of the revolutionary war. To witness this spectacle, a large body of Indians was collected from the most powerful tribes then occupying the almost entire west. They had assembled for the purpose of making a treaty. Whether any of them entered the hall of justice, or what were their impressions, we are not told.’”
Campus Martius, at Marietta, in 1791.
Soon after landing, Campus Martius, a stockaded fort, was begun on the verge of that beautiful plain, overlooking the Muskingum, on which are seated those celebrated remains of antiquity, but it was not completed with palisades and bastions until the winter of 1790-1. It was a square of 180 feet on a side. At each corner was a strong block-house, surmounted by a tower and sentry-box:
These houses were 20 feet square below, and 24 feet above, and projected 6 feet beyond the curtains, or main walls of the fort, The intermediate curtains were built up with dwelling houses, made of wood, whipsawed into timbers four inches thick, and of the requisite width and length. These were laid up similar to the
Before the Indians commenced hostilities, the block-houses were occupied as follows:—the south-west one by the family of Gov. St. Clair; the north-west one for public worship and holding of courts. The south-east block-house was occupied by private families; and the north-east as an office for the accommodation of the directors of the company. The area within the walls was 144 feet square, and afforded a fine parade ground. In the center was a well, 80 feet in depth,.for the supply of water to the inhabitants in case of a siege. A large sun-dial stood for many years in the square, placed on a handsome post, and gave note of the march of time. It is still preserved as a relic of the old garrison. After the war commenced, a regular military corps was organized, and a guard constantly kept night and day. The whole establishment formed a very strong work, and reflected great credit on the head that planned it.
Ship building, at Marietta, was carried on quite extensively at an early day. From the year 1800 to 1807, the business was very thriving. Com. Abm. Whipple, a veteran of the Revolution, conducted the one first built, the St. Clair, to the ocean.
At that time Marietta was made “a port of clearance,” from which vessels could receive regular papers for a foreign country. “This circumstance was the cause of a curious incident, which took place in the year 1806 or 1807. A ship, built at Marietta, cleared from that port with a cargo of pork, flour, etc., for New Orleans. From thence she sailed to England with a load of cotton, and being chartered to take a cargo to St. Petersburg, the Americans being at that time carriers for half the world, reached that port in safety. Her papers being examined by a naval officer, and dating from the port of Marietta, Ohio, she was seized, upon the plea of their being a forgery, as no such port was known in the civilized world. With considerable difficulty the captain procured a map of the United States, and pointing with his finger to the mouth of the Mississippi, traced the course of that stream to the mouth of the Ohio; from thence he led the astonished and admiring naval officer along the devious track of the latter river to the port of Marietta, at the mouth of the Muskingum, from whence he had taken his departure. This explanation was entirely satisfactory and the American was dismissed with every token of regard and respect.”
One of the early settlers in this region, gave Mr. Howe, for his work on Ohio, the annexed amusing sketch, illustrating pioneer life:
People who have spent their lives in an old settled country, can form but a faint idea of the privations and hardships endured by the pioneers of our now flourishing and prosperous state. When I look on Ohio as it is, and think what it was in 1802, when I first settled here, I am struck with astonishment, and can hardly credit my own senses. When I emigrated, I was a young man, without any property, trade, or profession, entirely dependent on my own industry for a living. I purchased 60 acres of new land on credit, 2 1-2 miles from any house or road, and built a camp of poles, 7 by 4 feet, and 5 feet high, with three sides and a fire in front. I furnished myself with a loaf of bread, a piece of pickled pork, some potatoes, borrowed a frying pan, and commenced housekeeping. I was not hindered from my work by company; for the first week I did not see a living soul, but, to make amends for the want of it, I had every night a most glorious concert of
A Pioneer Dwelling in the Woods.
In process of time, a yard and a half of calico was wanted; I started on foot through the woods ten miles, to Marietta, to procure it; but alas! when I arrived there I found that, in the absence of both money and credit, the calico was not to be obtained. The dilemma was a serious one, and how to escape I could not devise; but I had no sooner informed my wife of my failure, than she suggested that I had a pair of thin pantaloons which I could very well spare, that would make quite a decent frock: the pants were cut up, the frock made, and in due time, the child was dressed.
The long winter evenings were rather tedious, and in order to make them pass more smoothly, by great exertion, I purchased a share in the Belpre library, 6 miles distant. From this I promised myself much entertainment, but another obstacle presented itself—I had no candles; however, the woods afforded plenty of pine knots—with these I made torches, by which I could read, though I nearly spoiled my eyes. Many a night have I passed in this manner, till 12 or 1 o'clock reading to my wife, while she was hatcheling, carding or spinning. Time rolled on, the payments for my land became due, and money, at that time, in Ohio, was a
cash article:
however, I did not despair. I bought a few steers; some I bartered for and others I got on credit—my credit having somewhat improved since the calico expedition—slung a knapsack on my back, and started alone with my cattle for Romney, on the Potomac, where I sold them, then traveled on to Litchfield, Connecti-cut, paid for my land, and had just $1 left to bear my expenses home, 600 miles distant. Before I returned, I worked and procured 50 cents in cash; with this and my dollar I commenced my journey homeward. I laid out my dollar for cheap hair combs, and these, with a little Yankee pleasantry, kept me very comfortably at the private houses where I stopped till I got to Owego, on the Susquehanna, where I had a power of attorney to collect some money for a neighbor in Ohio.
At Marietta are some ancient works, which, although not more remarkable than others in the state, and not so extensive as some, are more generally known, from having been so frequently described by travelers. They are on an elevated plain, above the present bank of the Muskingum, on the east side, and about half a mile from its junction with the Ohio. They consist of walls and mounds of earth in direct lines, and in square and circular forms. The largest square fort, or town contained about forty acres, encompassed by a wall of earth, from six to ten feet high. On each side were three openings, probably gateways. On the side next the Muskingum there was a covert way, formed of two parallel walls of earth, upward of 200 feet apart, extending probably, at the time of their construction, to the river. There was also a smaller fort, consisting of 20 acres, having walls, gateways and mounds. The mound in the present graveyard is situated on the southeast of the smaller fort. The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in this yard:
Sacred to the memory of Commodore
Abraham Whipple,
whose naval skill and courage will ever remain the pride and boast of his country. In the
Revolution,
he was the first on the seas to hurl defiance at proud Britain, gallantly leading the way to wrest from the mistress of the seas her scepter, and there wave the star spangled banner. He also conducted to the sea the first square rigged vessel ever built on the Ohio, opening to commerce resources beyond calculation. He was born Sept. 26th, A.D. 1733, and died May 26th, 1819, aged 85 years.
Gen.
Rufus Putnam.
died May 4, 1824, in the 87th year of his age.
Here lies the body of his Excellency,
Return Jonathan Meigs,
Who was born at Middletown, Connecticut, Nov.—, 1766, and died at Marietta, March 29, 1825. For many years his time and talents were devoted to the service of his country. He successively filled the place of Judge of the Territory North-west of the Ohio, Senator of Congress of the United States, Governor of the State, and Post Master General of the United States. To the honoured and revered memory of an ardent Patriot, a practical Statesman, an enlightened Scholar, a dutiful Son, an indulgent Father, an affectionate Husband, this monument is erected by his mourning widow, Sophia Meigs.
In memory of Doctor
Samuel Hildreth,
a native of Massachusetts, who died at Belpre, August 6th, A.D. 1823, aged 73 years.
Death is the good man's friend—the messenger who calls him to his Father's house.
Martha Brainerd,
daughter of Dr. Joseph Spencer, Jr., and grand-daughter of Maj. Gen. Joseph Spencer, officers in the army of the Revolution in 1775, the latter a member of the Continental Congress of 1778, born at Lebanon, Connecticut, Jan. 18, 1782, married in Virginia to Stephen Radeliff Wilson, May 20th, 1798, died at Marietta, Jan. 10th, 1852.
Gallipolis,
the county seat of Gallia county, one of the oldest towns in Ohio, is pleasantly situated on the Ohio River, 102 miles south-easterly eastorly from Columbus; and contains about 2,800 inhabitants. It was settled in 1791, by a French colony, sent out under the auspices of the “Scioto Company,” which appears to have been in some way connected with the Ohio Company. The agents of the Scioto Company, in Paris, were Joel Barlow, of the United States; Playfair, an Englishman; and a Frenchman, named De Saisson. A handsome, but deceptive French map was engraved, and glowing representations of the country were given, and, being about the beginning of the French Revolution, the “flattering delusion” took strong hold. The terms to induce emigration were as follows: The company proposed to take the emigrant to their lands and pay the cost, and the latter bound himself to work three years for the company, for which he was to receive fifty acres,
The location of Gallipolis was effected just before the arrival of the French. Col. Rufus Putnam sent Maj. Burnham, with about 40 men, for that purpose, who made the clearing ., and erected block-houses and cabins on the present public square. Eighty log cabins were constructed, 20 in each row. At each of the corners were block-houses, two stories high. Above the cabins, on the square, were two other parallel rows of cabins, which, with a high stockade fence, formed a sufficient fortification in times of danger. These upper cabins were a story and a half high, built of hewed logs, and finished in better style than those below, being intended for the richer class. The following is from a communication to the American Pioneer, from one of the colonists, Waldeurard Meulette:
Gallipolis, i. e. Town of the French, in
1791.
At an early meeting of the colonists, the town was named Gallipolis (town of the French). I did not arrive till nearly all the colonists were there. I descended the river in 1791, in flat boats, loaded with troops, commanded by Gen. St. Clair, destined for an expedition against the Indians. Some of my countrymen joined that expedition; among others was Count Malartie, a captain in the French guard of Louis XVI. General St. Clair made him one of his aids-de-camp in the battle, in which he was severely wounded. He went back to Philadelphia, from whence he returned to France. The Indians were encouraged to greater depredations and murders, by their success in this expedition, but most especially against the American settlements. From their intercourse with the French in Canada, or some other cause, they seemed less disposed to trouble us. Immediately after St. Clair's defeat, Col. Sproat, commandant at Marietta, appointed four spies for Gallipolis— two Americans and two French, of which I was one, and it was not until after the treaty at Greenville, in 1795, that we were released.
Notwithstanding the great difficulties, the difference of tempers, education, and professions, the inhabitants lived in harmony, and having little or nothing to do, made themselves agreeable and useful to each other. The Americans and hunters, employed by the company, performed the first labors of clearing the township, which was divided into lots.
Although the French were willing to work, yet the clearing of an American
60
Breckenridge, in his Recollections, gives some reminiscences of Gallipolis, related in a style of charming simplicity and humor. He was then a boy of nine years of age:
Behold me once more in port, and domiciled at the house, or inn, of Monsieur, or rather, Dr. Saugrain, a cheerful, sprightly little Frenchman, four feet six, English measure, and a chemist, natural philosopher and physician, both in the English and French signification of the word.
As the Ohio was now more frequented, the house was occasionally resorted to, and especially by persons looking out for land to purchase. The doctor had a small apartment which contained his chemical apparatus, and I used to sit by him as often as I could watching the curious operation of his blow-pipe and crucible. I loved the cheerfal little man, and he became very fond of me in return. Many of my countrymen used to come and stare at his doings, which they were half inclined to think had a too near resemblance to the black art.
The doctor was a great favorite with the Americans, as well for his vivacity and sweetness of temper, which nothing could sour, as on account of a circumstance which gave him high claim to the esteem of the backwoodsmen. He had shown himself, notwithstanding his small stature and great good nature, a very hero in combat with the Indians. He had descended the Ohio in company with two French Philosophers, who were believers in the primitive innocence and goodness of the children of the forest. They could not be persuaded that any danger was to be apprehended from the Indians; as they had no intentions to injure that people, they supposed no harm could be meditated on their part. Dr. Saugrain was not altogether so well convinced of their good intentions and accordingly kept his pistots loaded. Near the mouth of the Sandy, a canoe with a party of warriors approached the boat; the philosophers invited them on board by signs, when they
The doctor was married to an amiable young woman, but not possessing as much vivacity as himself. As Madam Saugrain had no maid to assist her, her brother, a boy of my age, and myself were her principal helps in the kitchen. We brought water and wood and washed the dishes. I used to go in the morning about two two miles for a little milk, sometimes on the frozen ground, barefooted. I tried a pair of savots, or wooden shoes, but was unable to make any use of them, although they had been made by the carver to the king. Little perquisites, too, sometimes fell to our share from blacking boots and shoes; my companion generally saved his, while mine would have burned a hole in my pocket if it had remained there. In the spring and summer, a good deal of my time was passed in the garden, weeding, the beds. While thus engaged, I formed an acquaintance with a young lady, of eighteen or twenty, on tile other side of the palings, who was often similarly occupied. Our friendship, which was purely Platonic, commenced with the story of Blue Beard, recounted by her, and with the novelty and pathos of which I was much interested.
Soon after Breckenridge left the place, but in 1807 again saw Gallipolis:
As we passed Point Pleasant and the Island below it, Gallipolis, which I looked for with anxious feelings, hove in sight. I thought of the French inhabitants—I thought of my friend Saugraia, and I recalled, in the liveliest colors, the incidents of that portion of my life which was passed here. A year is a long time at that period—every day is crowded with new and great and striking events. When the boat landed, I ran up the bank and looked around; but alas! how changed! The Americans had taken the town in hand, and no trace of
antiquity
, that is, of twelve years ago, remained. I hastened to the spot where I expected to find the abode, the little log house, tavern and laboratory of the doctor, but they had vanished like the palace of Aladdin. After some inquiry, I found it little Frenchman; who, like the old woman of Goldsmith's village, was “the sad historian of the deserted plain”—that is, deserted by one race to be peopled by another. He led me to where a few logs might be seen, as the only remains of the once happy tenement which had sheltered me—but all around it was a common; the town had taken a different direction. My heart sickened; the picture which my imagination had drawn—the scenes which my memory loved to cherish, were blotted out and obliterated. A volume of reminiscences seemed to be annihilated in an instant! I took a hasty glance at the new town as I returned to the boat. I saw brick houses, painted frames, fanciful inclosures, ornamental trees. Even the pond, which had carried off a third of the French population by its
malaria
, had disappeared, and a pretty green had usurped its place, with a neat brick court house in the midst of it. This was too much; I hastened my pace, and with sorrow once more pushed into the stream.
Cincinnati,
the metropolis of Ohio, and capital of Hamilton county, is on the right or northern bank of the Ohio, 116 miles south-west of Columbus, 455, by the course of the river, from Pittsburg, Pa.; 1,447 above New Orleans, by the Mississippi and Ohio rivers; 518 west from Baltimore, 617 from Philadelphia, 704 from New York, 655 east from St. Louis, Mo., 492 from Washington City. Lat. 39° 6′ 30″; Long. 84° 27′W. from Greenwich, or 7° 25′ W. from Washington. It is the largest inland city in the United States, and is frequently called the “Queen City of the West.”
Soon after the first settlement of Ohio was commenced at Marietta, several parties were formed to occupy and improve separate portions of Judge Symmes′ purchase between the Miami Rivers. The first, led by Maj. Stites, laid out the town of Columbia, at the mouth of the Little Miami. The second party, about twelve or fifteen in number, under Matthias Denman and Robert Patterson, after much difficulty and danger, caused by floating ice in the Ohio, landed on its north bank, opposite the mouth of the Licking, Dec. 24,Losantiville
, which was afterward changed to Cincinnati. The original price paid by Mr. Denman for the land on which the city now stands, was, in value, about
fifteen pence
per acre. A third party of adventurers, under the immediate care of Judge Symmes, located themselves at North Bend.
For some time it was a matter of doubt which of the rivals, Columbia, Cincinnati or North Bend would eventually become the seat of business. The garrison for the defense of the settlements having been established at Cincinnati, made it the head-quarters and depot of the army. In addition to this, as soon as the county courts of the territory were organized, it was created the seat of justice for Hamilton county. These advantages turned the scale in favor of Cincinnati.
Cincinnati from the Kentucky side of the Ohio.
Parts of Covington and Newport, Ky., appear on the right;
a
, landing, Cincinnati;
b
, the suburb of Fulton, up the Ohio, on the left of which is East Walnut Hills, and through which passes the Little Miami Railroad, leading to the eastern cities;
c
, Mount Adams, on which is the Cincinnati Observatory;
d
, position of Walnut Hills, three miles from the city;
e
, Mount Auburn, 480 feet above the had of the Ohio;
f
, Vino-street Hill,g
, valley of Mill-creek, on which is Spring Grove Cemetery, and the railroad track to Dayton.
* The hulk of the German population is in that portion of the city between the base of Mt. Auburn and Vine-street Hill. The line of the canal to Toledo cuts off the German settlement from the south part of the city. “Over the Rhine,”
i. e., over the canal, is, in common parlance the appellation given to that quarter. The total German population is estimated 40,000.
At first, North Bend had a decided advantage over it, as the troops de. tailed by Gen. Harmar for the protection of the Miami settlers were landed there, through the influence of Judge Symmes. It appears, however, that the detachment soon afterward took its departure for Cincinnati. The tradition is, that Ensign Luce, the commander of the party, while looking out very leisurely for a suitable site on which to erect a block-house, formed an acquaintance with a beautiful, black-eyed female, to whom he became much attached. She was the wife of one of the settlers at the Bend. Her husband saw the danger to which he was exposed if he remained where he was. He therefore resolved at once to remove to Cincinnati. The ensign soon followed, and, as it appears, being authorized to make a selection for a military work, he chose Cincinnati as the site, and notwithstanding the remonstrances of Judge Symmes, he removed the troops and commenced the erection of a block-house. Soon after Maj. Doughty arrived at Cincinnati with troops from Fort Harmar, and commenced the erection of Fort Washington. The
Soon as the settlers of Cincinnati landed, they commenced erecting three or four cabins, the first of which was built on Front, east of and near Mainstreet. The lower table of land was then covered with sycamore and maple trees, and the upper with beech and oak. Through this dense forest the streets were laid out, their corners being marked upon the trees. This survey extended from Eastern Row, now Broadway, to Western Row, now Central-avenue, and from the river as far north as Northern Row, now Seventh street.
In January, 1790, Gen. Arthur St. Clair, then governor of the north-west territory, arrived at Cincinnati to organize the county of Hamilton. In the succeeding fall, Gen. Harmar marched from Fort Washington on his expedition against the Indians of the north-west. In the following year (1791), the unfortunate army of St. Clair marched from the same place. On his return, St. Clair gave Major Zeigler the command of Fort Washington and repaired to Philadelphia. Soon after, the latter was succeeded by Col. Wilkinson. This year, Cincinnati had little increase in its population. About one half of the inhabitants were attached to the army of St. Clair, and many killed in the defeat.
In 1792, about fifty persons were added by emigration to the population of Cincinnati, and a house of worship erected. In the spring following, the troops which had been recruited for Wayne's army landed at Cincinnati and encamped on the bank of the river between the village of Cincinnati and Mill-creek. To that encampment Wayne gave the name of “Robson's choice,” it being the only suitable place for that object. Here he remained several months, constantly drilling his troops, and then moved on to a spot now in Darke county, where he erected Fort Greenville. In the fall, after the army had left, the small-pox broke out in the garrison at Fort Washington, and spread with so much malignity that nearly one third of the soldiers and citizens fell victims. In July, 1794, the army left Fort Greenville, and on the 20th of August defeated the enemy at the battle of the “Fallen Timbers,” in what is now Lucas county, a few miles above Toledo. Judge Burnet thus describes Cincinnati at about this period:
Prior to the treaty of Greenville, which established a permanent peace between the United States and the Indians, but few improvements had been made of any description, and scarcely one of a permanent character. In Cincinnati, Fort Washington was the most remarkable object. That rude, but highly interesting structure stood between Third and Fourth streets, produced east of Eastern Row, now Broadway, which was then a two pole alley, and was the eastern boundary of the town, as originally laid out. It was composed of a number of strongly built, hewed log cabins, a story and a half high, calculated for soldiers' barracks. Some of them, more conveniently arranged, and better finished, were intended for officers' quarters. They were so placed as to form a hollow square of about an acre of ground, with a strong block-house at each angle. It was built of large logs, cut from the ground on which it stood, which was a tract of fifteen acres, reserved by congress in the law of 1792, for the accommodation of the garrison.
The artificers' yard was an appendage to the fort, and stood on the bank of the river, immediately in front. It contained about two acres of ground, inclosed by small contiguous buildings, occupied as work-shops and quarters for laborers. Within the inclosure; there was a large two story frame house, familiarly called the “yellow house,” built for the accommodation of the quartermaster general, which was the most commodious and best finished edifice in Cincinnati.
On the north side of Fourth-street, immediately behind the fort, Col. Sargcant, secretary of r the territory, had a convenient frame house, and a spacious garden, cultivated with care and taste. On the east side of the fort, Dr. Allison, the surgeon
On the north side of Fourth-street, opposite where St. Paul's Church now stands, there stood a frame school-house, inclosed, but unfinished, in which the children of the village were instructed. On the north side of the public square, there was a strong log building, erected and occupied as a jail. A room in the tavern of George Avery, near the frog-pond, at the corner of Main and Fifth-streets, had been rented for the accommodation of the courts; and as the penitentiary system had not been adopted, and Cincinnati was a seat of justice, it was ornamented with a pillory, stocks and whipping-post, and occasionally with a gallows. These were all the structures of a public character then in the place. Add to these the cabins and other temporary buildings for the shelter of the inhabitants, and it will complete the schedule of the improvements of Cincinnati at the time of the treaty of Greenville.
The First Church built in Cincinnati. *
* The engraving represents the First Presbyterian Church, as it appeared in February, 1847, and is engraved from a drawing then taken by Mr. Howe for his “Historical Collections of Ohio.” It stood on the west side of Vine, just north of Fourth-street, on the spot now occupied by the Summer Garden. Its original site was on the spot now occupied by the First Presbyterian Church, on Fourth-street. In the following spring, it was taken down, and the materials used for the construction of several dwellings in the part of Cincinati called
Texas. The greater proportion of the timber was found to be perfectly sound. In 1791, a number of the inhabitants formed themselves into a company, to escort the Rev. James Kemper from beyond the Kentucky River to Cincinnati; and after his arrival, a subscription was set on foot to build this church, which was erected in 1792. This subscription paper is still in existence, and bears date January 16, 1792. Among its signers were Gen. Wilkinson, Captains Ford, Peters and Shaylor, of the regular service, Dr. Allison, surgeon to St. Clair and Wayne, Winthrop Sargeant, Capt. Robert Elliott and others, principally citizens, to the number of 106, not one of whom survive.
It may assist the reader in forming something like a correct idea of the appearance of Cincinnati, and of what it actually was at that time, to know that at the
During the period now spoken of, the settlements of the territory, including Cincinnati, contained but few individuals, and still fewer, families, who had been accustomed to mingle in the circles of polished society. That fact put it in the power of the military to give character to the manners and customs of the people. Such a school, it must be admitted, was by no means calculated to make the most favorable impression on the morals and sobriety of any community, as was abundantly proven by the result.
Cincinnati in
1802.
Population about
800.The engraving is from a drawing made by Wm. Bucknall, Esq., now of London, England. The principal part of the village was upon the landing. Fort Washington (shown by the flag) was the most conspicuous object then in Cincinnati. Its site was on the south side of Third-street, just west of Broadway, or, as it was early called, Eastern Row.
Idleness, drinking and gambling prevailed in the army to a greater extent than it has done to any subsequent period. This may be maybe attributed to the fact that they had been several years in the wilderness, cut off from all society but their own, with but few comforts or conveniences at hand, and no amusements but such as their own ingenuity could invent. Libraries were not to be found—men of literary minds, or polished manners, were rarely met with; and they had long been deprived of the advantage of modest, accomplished female society, which always produces a salutary influence on the feelings and moral habits of men. Thus situated, the officers were urged, by an irresistible impulse, to tax their wits for expedients to fill up the chasms of leisure which were left on their hands, after a full discharge of their miltary duties; and, as is too frequently the case, in such circumstances, the bottle, the dice-box and the card-table were among the expedients resorted to, because they were the nearest at hand, and the most easily procured.
It is a distressing fact that a very large proportion of the officers under General Wayne, and subsequently under Gen. Wilkinson, were hard drinkers. Harrison, Clark, Shomberg, Ford, Strong, and a few others, were the only exceptions. Such were the habits of the army when they began to associate with the inhabitants of Cincinnati, and of the western settlements generally, and to give tone to public sentiment. As a natural consequence, the citizens indulged in the same practices
On the 9th of November, 1793, Wm. Maxwell established, at Cincinnati, “the Centinel of the North-Western Territory,” with the motto, “open to all parties—influenced by none.” It was on a half sheet, royal quarto size, and was the first newspaper printed north of the Ohio River. In 1796, Edward Freeman became the owner of the paper, which he changed to “Freeman's Journal,” which he continued until the beginning of 1800, when he removed to Chillicothe. On the 28th of May, 1799, Joseph Carpenter issued the first number of a weekly paper, entitled the “Western Spy and Hamilton Gazette.” On the 11th of January, 1794, two keel boats sailed from Cincinnati to Pittsburgh, each making a trip once in four weeks. Each boat was so covered as to be protected against rifle and musket balls, and had port holes to fire out at, and was provided with six pieces, carrying pound balls, a number of muskets and ammunition, as a protection against the Indians on the banks of the Ohio. In 1801, the first sea vessel equipped for sea, of 100 tuns, built at Marietta, passed down the Ohio, carrying produce; and the banks of the river at Cincinnati were crowded with spectators to witness this novel event. Dec. 19, 1801, the territorial legislature passed a bill removing the seat of government from Chillicothe to Cincinnati.
January 2, 1802, the territorial legislature incorporated the town of Cincinnati, and the following officers were appointed: David Zeigler, president; Jacob Burnet, recorder; Wm. Ramsay, David E. Wade, Chas. Avery, John Reily, Wm. Stanley, Samuel Dick, and Wm. Ruffner, trustees; Jo. Prince, assessor; Abram Cary, collector; and James Smith, town marshal. In 1795, the town contained 94 cabins, 10 frame houses, and about 500 inhabitants.
Cincinnati is situated in a beautiful valley of about 12 miles in circumference, surrounded by hills, which rise to the hight of about 500 feet. This valley is divided nearly in the center by the Ohio River. On the Kentucky side of the Ohio, the towns of Covington and Newport are situated in it, and it is there pierced by the smaller valley of the Licking River, running southerly. On the Ohio side the valley is also pierced, below the settled part of Cincinnati, by the valley of Mill creek, running northerly. Cincinnati is laid out with considerable regard to regularity; the streets in the center of the city being broad, and intersecting each other at right angles. Many of the hills surrounding the city are adorned by stately and elegant mansions, with ornamental grounds attached; while some of them are yet covered with groves of ancient forest trees.
The greater part of the city is built on two terraces, or plains, sometimes called “bottoms,” of which the first is about 50, and the second 108 feet above low water mark. These elevations, in grading, have been reduced more nearly to a gradual ascent of from 5 to 10 degrees from the river. The city extends more than three miles along the river. The central portions are compactly and handsomely built, with streets about 66 feet wide, bordered with spacious warehouses, stores, etc., many of which are magnificent structures, of beautiful brown freestone, rising to the hight of 6 stories, and with fronts of elaborate architecture. Main-street extends from the steamboat landing, in a northerly direction, and Broadway, Sycamore, Walnut, Vine, Race, Elm, and Plum-streets, are parallel to it. It is intersected at right angles by 14 principal streets, named Water, First, Second, Third, etc. An open area upon the bank of the river, with about 1,000 feet front, east
View on Fourth-street, Cincinnati.
The first building on the left is the iron front clothing store of Sprague & Co. The Post Office and Custom House are in the structure with the Grecian front. Mitchell & Ranunelsburg's Furniture Warerooms, Shillito's Dry Goods' establishment, and tower of the Unitarian Church, appear beyond.
The Ohio River, at Cincinnati, is 1,800 feet, or about one third of a mile,
In point of commercial importance, Cincinnati occupies a front rank in the west. By means of the numerous steamers which are constantly plying to and fro on the bosom of the majestic river, which rolls gracefully on the south of the city, and the several canals and railroads which enter here, Cincinnati is connected with every available point of importance in the great and highly productive valley of the Mississippi. The trade is not, however, confined to the interior: and a vast amount of foreign importation and exportation is done. The pork business is carried on more extensively here than at any other place in the world.
Manufacturing is entered into here with great energy, and employs a vast amount of capital. Numerous mills and factories are in operation, besides founderies, planing mills, rolling mills, saw mills, rolling mills, flouring mills, type founderies, machine shops, distilleries, etc. Nearly all kinds of machinery is driven by steam, and there are now about 300 steam engines in operation in the city. Steamboat building is an extensive and important business here. Among the most important branches of manufacture is that of iron castings, implements and machinery of various kinds, as steam engines, sugar mills, stoves, etc., some of the establishments employing hundreds of hands. The manufacture of clothing is also a great interest; and in the extent of the manufacture of furniture, the factories surpass any others in the Union. Cincinnati is also the most extensive book publishing mart in the west. The total value of the product of the manufacturing and industrial pursuits of Cincinnati, for 1859, was ascertained by Mr. Cist to sum up more than one hundred and twelve millions of dollars. Among the heaviest items were, ready made clothing 15 millions; iron castings, 6⅓ millions; total iron products, 13 millions; pork and beef packing, 6⅓ millions; candles and lard oil, 6 millions; whisky, 5⅓ millions; furniture, 3⅔ millions; domestic liquors, 3½ millions; publications, newspapers, books, etc., 2⅔ millions; and patent medicines, 2 millions.
Cincinnati was the first city in the world to adopt the steam fire engine. The machine used is of Cincinnati invention, by Abel Shawk. The fire department is under pay of the city. It is admirably conducted, and so efficient that a serious conflagration is very rare. The huge machines, when on their way to a fire, are drawn through the streets by four powerful horses moving at full gallop, and belching forth flames and smoke, form an imposing spectacle.
Cincinnati has the first Observatory built on the globe by the contributions of “the people.” It is a substantial stone building, on the hill east of the city, 500 feet above the Ohio, named Mt. Adams, from John Quincy Adams, who laid the corner stone of the structure, Nov. 9, 1843. The telescope is of German manufacture; it is an excellent instrument, and cost about $10,000.
The public buildings of Cincinnati are numerous, and some of them of beautiful architecture. The Mechanics' Institute is a substantial building, erected by voluntary subscription. The Ohio School Library and that of the Mechanics' Institute are merged in one, which is free to the public: it has 24,000 volumes. The Catholic Institute, which adjoins it, is an elegant and capacious structure with a front of freestone. The Cincinnati College edifice is a large building of compact gray limestone. In it are the rooms of the Chamber of Commerce and the Young Mens' Mercantile Library Association. This association has 2,500 members, and a library of 20,000 volumes, beside all the principal American and foreign periodicals. The Masonic Temple, corner of Third and Walnut, cost about $150,000. It is one of the most beautiful and imposing buildings in the Union. The material is a light freestone, and the style Byzantine. The County Court House is the largest building in the city. It cost more than a million of dollars: its front is of gray limestone, and the whole structure is of the most durable character. Among the theaters of the city, Pike's Opera House, for the beauty and exquisite taste shown in its construction, has a national reputation. It cost with the ground, nearly half a million of dollars: its magnificent opera hall is justly the pride of the citizens. Among the 110 churches of the city, the Catholic Cathedral, on Eighth-street, is the most imposing. It is 200 feet long and 80 feet wide, with a spire rising to the hight of 250 feet, and cost about $100,000.
Pike's Opera House.
The Eagle on the summit is perched 110 feet above the pavement. The Opera room Is about 100 feet each way, and from the floor of the Parquette to the crown of the dome is 82 feet; it has three tier of boxes, and a seating capacity of nearly 3,000 persons.
Cincinnati has its full share of literary and benevolent institutions. It has 5 medical and 4 commercial colleges, the Wesleyan Female, and also St.
* The
forcing system prevails in the graded schools of our large cities to an alarming extent. It would seem as if, in the opinion of those who control these institutions, Providence had neglected to make the days of sufficient length, for children to obtain an education. In some of our large cities, doubtless many children can be found, on any winter night, between the late hours of 8 and 10, busy pouring over their books—a necessity required for a respectable scholarship. Many, if the writer can believe alike and teachers and parents, break down under the system. Others, doubtless, are to reap bitter fruits in after life, in long years of suffering, if, more happily, they fail to fill premature graves!
H. H. Barney, Esq., formerly superintendent of the public schools of Ohio, himself with thirty-two years of experience as a teacher, thus expresses his views on this subject:
“This ill-judged system of education has proved, in numerous instances, fatal to the health of the inmates of our public schools, exhausting their physical energies, irritating their nerves, depressing and crushing, to a great extent, that elasticity of spirit, vigor of body, and pleasantness of pursuit, which are essential to the highest success in education as well as in every other occupation.
Parents, guardians, physicians, and sensible men and women everywhere, bear testimony against a system of education which ignores the health, the happiness, and, in some cases, even the life of the pupil. Yet this absurd, cruel system is still persevered in, and will continue to be, so long as our public schools are mainly filled with the children of the poorer and humbler classes of society, and so long as the course of study and number of study hours are regulated and determined by those who have had little or no experience in the education or bringing up of children, or who, by educating their own offspring, at home or in private schools, have, in a measure, shielded them from the evils of this stern, rigorous, unnatural system of educating the intellect at the expense of the body, the affections, the disposition, and the present as well as life long welfare of the pupil.”
Cincinnati is the center of many extensive railway lines, running north, east, south and west, and also the terminus of the Miami Canal, extending to Lake Erie and Toledo, and the Whitewater Canal, penetrating the heart of Indiana. Population, in 1800, 759; in 1810, 2,540; in 1820, 9,602; 1830, 24,831; 1840, 46,338; 1850, 118,761; in 1860, 171,293; the suburbs, Covington and Newport, would increase this to about 200,000.
Cincinnati is noted for the successful manufacture of wine from native grapes, particularly the Catawba. The establishment of this branch of industry is due to the unremitting exertions of Mr. Nicholas Longworth, a resident of Cincinnati for more than half a century.
Prior to this, the manufacture of American wine had been tried in an experimental way, but it had failed as a business investment. Learning that wine could be made from the Catawba grape, a variety originating in North Carolina, Mr. Longworth entered systematically into its cultivation, and to encourage the establishment of numerous vineyards, he offered a market on his own premises for all the
must
(juice), that might be brought him, without reference to the quantity.
“At the same time he offered a reward of five hundred dollars to whoever should discover a better variety. It proved a great stimulus to the growth of the Catawba vine in the neighborhood of Cincinnati, to know that a man of Mr. Longworth's means stood ready to pay cash, at the rate of from a dollar to a dollar and a quarter a gallon, for all the grape juice that might be brought to him, without reference to the quantity. It was in this way, and by urgent popular appeals through the columns of the newspapers, that he succeeded, after many failures, and against the depressing influence of much doubt and indifference, in bringing the enterprise up * “Mr. Longworth was always curious after new and interesting things of Nature's producing. It was the remark of an old citizen of Cincinnati, that, if Mr. Longworth was to be suddenly thrown, neck and heels, into the Ohio River, he would come to the surface with a new variety of fish in each hand. His chief interest in horticultural matters, however, has been expended upon the strawberry and the grape. The perfection of variety and culture to which he has, by his experiments and labors, brought these two important fruits of the country, have established their extensive and systematic cultivation in all parts of the west.”
Longworth's Vineyard.
Situated on the banks of the Ohio, four miles above Cincinnati.
Within the last few years, the grape crop in the Ohio valley has been much injured by mildew and rot, yet the crop, thus far, has been as reliable as any other fruit. The most certain locality for the production of the grape in Ohio, is Kelly's Island, in Lake Erie, near Sandusky City, where the vines bear fruit when they fail in all other localities. This is ascribed to the uniformity of temperature at night, during the summer months, by which the formation of dew is prevented, and consequently of mildew. The grape is now cultivated in vineyards, for making wine, in twenty-one states of the Union. In the mountain regions of Tennessee, Georgia, Alabama, and South Carolina, the increase has been rapid and extensive. That district and California appear to be the most favorable grape producing parts of the Union.
The garden of Mr. Longworth is among the curiosities of Cincinnati, which is greatly visited by strangers. It is an inclosure of several acres, near the heart of the city, and at the foot of Mt. Adams. His mansion, with its art treasures, is in the midst. On the grounds are several fine conservatories, filled with rare plants, a grape-house for foreign vines, and an experimental forcing-house, for new varieties of strawberries and other plants. His immense wine cellars are in the vicinity.
The suburbs of Cincinnati are very beautiful. Over on the hills the whole surface of the country, for miles and miles in every direction, disposed, in exquisite undulations, with charming country seats, scattered here and there. The prominent localities are Walnut Hills, the seat of Lane Seminary, Mt. Auburn, Avondale and Clifton, the last containing the most elegant of rural seats. Spring Grove Cemetery, an inclosure of 168 acres, is four miles from Cincinnati—a city of the dead in a beautiful location, and where nature and art join their attractions.
North Bend
, once the home of General Harrison, is 16 miles below the city, and four from the Indiana line, at the northermost point of a bend in the Ohio River. This place derives its chief interest from having been long the residence of William Henry Harrison. The family mansion stood on a level plat about 300 yards back from the Ohio, amid pleasing scenery. It was destroyed by fire a few years since. The engraving on the following page is copied from a drawing made in 1846 by Mr. Howe for his work on Ohio. The eastern half of the mansion, that is, the part on the reader's right, from the door in the main building, was built of logs. The whole structure was clapboarded and painted, and had a neat appearance.
This dwelling became noted in the prosidential campaign of 1840, which resulted in the election of Gen. Harrison to the presidency—commonly called “the
Hard Cider Campaign.
” It is said that some opponent had declared in a public speech that he was unfit for the office, because he never had shown the ability toNorth Bend,
Residence of President Harrison.“Tippecanoe and Tyler too,”
in which occurred these verses:
What has caused this great commotion, motion, motion,
Our country through?
It is the ball that's rolling on
For Tippecanoe and Tyler too,
For Tippecanoe and Tyler too;
And with them we'll beat little Van,
Van, Van, Van, Van is a used up man,
And with them we'll beat little Van.
The latch-string hangs outside the door, door, door,
And is never pulled through,
For it never was the custom of
Old Tippecanoe and Tyler too,
Old Tippecanoe and Tyler too;
And with them we'll beat little Van,
Van, Van, Van, Van is a used up man,
And with them we'll beat little Van.
The tomb of Harrison is near by, on a small oval mound, elevated about 150 feet above the Ohio, and commanding a view of beauty. It is a plain brick structure, without inscription.
Near the tomb of Harrison is the grave of Judge Symmes. On a tablet there is this inscription:
Here rest the remains of John Cleves Symmes, who at the foot of these hills made the first settlement between the Miami Rivers. Born at Long Island, state of New York, July 21, A. D. 1742; died at Cincinnati, February 26, A. D. 1814.
Judge Symmes, before his removal to the west, was a member of congress from New Jersey, and also chief justice of that state. Gen. Harrison married his daughter, who, as late as 1860, still survived. At the treaty of Greenville, the Indians told Judge Symmes, and others, that in the war they had frequently brought up their rifles to shoot him, and then on recognizing him refused to pull the trigger. This was in consequence of his previous kindness to them, and spoke volumes in his praise, as well as honor to the native instinct of the savages.
Ancient Block-house Near North Bend.
Three miles below North Bend, on the Ohio, was Sugar Camp Settlement, composed of about thirty houses, and a block-house erected as a defense against the Indians. This was about the time of the first settlement of Cincinnati. Until within a few years, this block-house was standing. The adjoining cut is from a drawing taken on the spot in 1846. We give it because it shows the ordinary form of these structures. Their distinguishing feature is that from the hight of a man's shoulder the building the rest of the way up projects a foot or two from the lower part, leaving at the point of junction between the two parts a cavity through which to thrust rifles on the approach of enemies.
Hamilton
, the capital of Butler county, is 25 miles north of Cincinnati, on the Miami Canal, river and railroad to Dayton, and at the terminus of a railroad to Richmond. A hydraulic canal of 28 feet fall gives excellent water power, and there are now in operation several flourishing manufacturing establishments—paper, flouring, woolen, planing mills, iron foundries, etc. Population 8000. The well known
Miami University
is 12 miles north-west of Hamilton, in the beautiful town of Oxford.
John Cleves Symmes
, the author of the “Theory of Concentric Spheres,” demonstrating that the earth is hollow, inhabited by human beings, and widely open at the poles, was a native of New Jersey, and a nephew of Judge Symmes. He resided in the latter part of his life at Hamilton, where he died in 1829, aged about 50 years. In early life he entered the army as an ensign. He was with Scott in his Niagara campaign, and acted with bravery. In a short circular, dated at St. Louis, in 1818, Capt. Symmes first promulgated the fundamental principles of his theory to the world. From time to time, he published various articles in the public prints upon the subject. He also delivered lectures, first at Cincinnati in 1820, and afterward in various places in Kentucky and Ohio.
MONUMENT OF J. C. SYMMES.
Of “Symmes' Hole” memory. It is surmounted by a globe “open at the poles.”
“In the year 1822, Capt. Symmes petitioned the congress of the United States, setting forth, in the first place, his belief of the existence of a habitable and accessible concave to this globe; his desire to embark on a voyage of discovery to one or other of the polar regions; his belief in the great profit and honor his country would derive from such a discovery; and prayed that congress would equip and fit out for the expedition, two vessels, of two hundred and fifty or three hundred tons burden; and grant such other aid as government might deem necessary to promote the object. This petition was presented in the senate by Col. Richard M. Johnson, on the 7th day of March, 1822, when (a motion to refer it to the committee of foreign relations having failed), after a few remarks it was laid on the table—Ayes, 25. In December, 1823, he forwarded similar petitions to both houses of congress, which met with a similar fate. In January 1824, he petitioned the
His theory was met with ridicule, both in this country and Europe, and became a fruitful source of jest and levity, to the public prints of the day. Notwithstanding, he advanced many plausible and ingenious arguments, and won quite a number of converts among those who attended his lectures, one of whom, a gentleman of Hamilton, wrote a work in its support, published in Cincinnati in 1826, in which he stated his readiness to embark on a voyage of discovery to the North Pole, for the purpose of testing its truth. Capt. Symmes met with the usual fate of projectors, in living and dying in great pecuniary embarrassment: but he left the reputation of an honest man.
South-eastern view of the Court House, at Chillicothe.
This beautiful and commodious structure is in the central part of Chillicothe; the left wing, on the corner of Main and Paint-streets, attached to the main building, contains the offices of the Probate Judge, the Sheriff, and the Clerk; the other wing, those of the Recorder, Treasurer, and Auditor. The First Presbyterian Church is seen on the left.
Chillicothe
is on the west bank of the Scioto, on the line of the Ohio Canal and Marietta and Cincinnati Railroad, 45 miles S. of Columbus, 45 from Portsmouth, and 96 from Cincinnati. The Scioto curves around it on the north, and Paint creek flows on the south. The site of place is on a plain about 30 feet above the river. It contains 17 churches, a young ladies' Academy of the Notre Dame, a flourishing military academy, and about 9,000 inhabitants.
The new court house, in this town, is one of the best designed, most beautiful, and convenient structures of the kind we have seen in our tour through the United States. It was erected at an expense of about $100,000, and was designed by Gen. James Rowe, one of the county commissioners. A room is set apart in the court house for the preservation of the relics of antiquity. Here is preserved the table around which the members of the territorial council sat when they formed the laws of the North West Territory, of which Chillicothe was the capital. Around it also gathered the members who formed the first constitution of Ohio. The old bell which called them together
61
Old State House, Chillicothe.
[Drawn by Henry Howe, in 1846.]
In 1800, the old state house was commenced and finished the next year, for the accommodation of the legislature and courts. It is believed that it was the first public stone edifice erected in the territory. The mason work was done by Major Wm. Rutledge, a soldier of the Revolution, and the carpentering by William Guthrie. The territorial legislature held their session in it for the first time in 1801. The convention that framed the first constitution of Ohio was held in it, the session commencing on the first Monday in November, 1802. In April, 1803, the first state legislature met in the house, and held their sessions until 1810. The sessions of 1810-11, and 1811-12, were held at Zanesville, and from there removed back to Chillicothe and held in this house until 1816, when Columbus became the permanent capital of the state. This ancient edifice was standing until within a few years.
In the war of 1812, Chillicothe was a rendezvous for United States troops. They were stationed at Camp Bull, a stockade one mile N. of the town, on the west bank of the Scioto. A large number of British prisoners, amounting to several hundred, were at one time confined at the camp. On one occasion, a conspiracy was formed between the soldiers and their officers who were confined in jail. The plan was for the privates in camp to disarm their guard, proceed to the jail, release the officers, burn the town, and escape to Canada. The conspiracy was disclosed by two senior British officers, upon which, as a measure of security, the officers were sent to the penitentiary in Frankfort, Ky.
Four deserters were shot at camp at one time. The ceremony was impressive and horrible. The soldiers were all marched out under arms, with music playing, to witness the death of their comrades, and arranged in one long extended line in front of the camp, facing the river. Close by the river bank, at considerable distances apart, the deserters were placed, dressed in full uniform, with their coats buttoned up and caps drawn over their faces. They were confined to stakes in a kneeling position behind their coffins, painted black, which came up to their waists, exposing the upper part of their persons to the fire of their fellow-soldiers. Two sections, of six men each, were marched before each of the doomed. Signals were given by an officer, instead of words of command, so that the unhappy men should not be apprised of the moment of their death. At the given signal the first sections raised their muskets and poured the fatal volleys into the breasts of their comrades. Three of the four dropped dead in an instant; but the fourth sprang up with great force, and gave a scream of agony. The reserve section stationed before him were ordered to their places, and another volley completely riddled his bosom. Even then the thread of life seemed hard to sunder.
On another occasion, an execution took place at the same spot under most melancholy circumstances. It was that of a mere youth of nineteen, the son of a
Portsmouth from the Kentucky shore of the Ohio.
The view shows the appearance of the Steamboat Landing, as seen from Springville, on the Kentucky side of the Ohio. The Biggs' House, corner of Market and Front-streets, appears on the left, Gaylord & Co.'s Rolling Mill on the right. The Scioto River passes at the foot of the mountainous range on the left
Portsmouth,
the capital of Scioto county, is beautifully situated on the Ohio River, at the mouth of the Scioto, 90 miles S. of Columbus, and 110 by the river above Cincinnati, at the terminus of the Erie and Ohio Canal, and Scioto and Hocking Valley Railroad. It contains 16 churches, 5 founderies, 3 rolling mills, 3 machine shops, and about 8,000 inhabitants. The great iron region of the state lies north and east of Portsmouth, and adds much to the business of the town. Here, on the Kentucky side of the Ohio, is a range of mountainous hills, averaging 500 feet high. Opposite Portsmouth they rise precipitously to a hight of 600 feet, being the highest elevation on the Ohio River, presenting a very striking and beautiful appearance. The Ohio is 600 yards wide at.the landing, which is one of the best on the river, there being water sufficient for the largest boats at all seasons. A wire suspension bridge passes over the Scioto at this place.
It is said that 1½ miles below the old mouth of the Scioto, stood, about the year 1740, a French fort or trading station. Prior to the settlement at Marietta, an attempt at settlement was made at Portsmouth, the history of which is annexed from an article in the American Pioneer, by George Corwin, of Portsmouth:
In April, 1785, four families from the Redstone settlement in Pennsylvania, descended the Ohio to the mouth of the Scioto, and there moored their boat under the high bank where Portsmouth now stands. They commenced clearing the
Soon after they landed, the four men, the heads of the families, started up the Scioto to see the paradise of the west, of which they had heard from the mouths of white men who had traversed it during their captivity among the natives. Leaving the little colony, now consisting of four women and their children, to the protection of an over-ruling Providence, they traversed the beautiful bottoms of the Scioto as far up as the prairies above, and opposite to where Piketon now stands. One of them, Peter Patrick by name, pleased with the country, cut the initials of his name on a beech, near the river, which being found in after times, gave the name of Pee Pee to the creek that flows through the prairie of the same name; and from that creek was derived the name of Pee Pee township in Pike county.
Encamping near the site of Piketon, they were surprised by a party of Indians, who killed two of them as they lay by their fires. The other two escaped over the hills to the Ohio River, which they struck at the mouth of the Little Scioto, just as some white men going down the river in a pirogue were passing. They were going to Port Vincennes, on the Wabash. The tale of woe which was told by these men, with entreaties to be taken on board, was at first insufficient for their relief. It was not uncommon for Indians to compel white prisoners to act in a similar manner to entice boats to the shore for murderous and marauding purposes. After keeping them some time running down the shore, until they believed that if there was an ambuscade of Indians on shore, they were out of its reach, they took them on board, and brought them to the little settlement, the lamentations at which can not be described, nor its feeling conceived, when their peace was broken and their hopes blasted by the intelligence of the disaster reaching them. My informant was one who came down in the pirogue.
There was, however, no time to be lost; their safety depended on instant flight —and gathering up all their movables, they put off to Limestone, now Maysville, as a place of greater safety, where the men in the pirogue left them, and my informant said, never heard of them more.
Circleville
, the county seat of Pickaway county, on the Scioto River, on the line of the Erie and Ohio Canal, and on the railroad from Cincinnati to Wheeling, is 26 miles S. from Columbus, and 19 N. from Chillicothe. It has numerous mills and factories, and an extensive water power. Population about 5,000.
It was laid out in 1810, as the seat of justice, by Daniel Dresbatch, on land originally belonging to Zeiger and Watt. The town is on the site of ancient fortifications, one of which having been circular, originated the name of the place. The old court house, built in the form of an octagon, and destroyed in 1841, stood in the center of the circle. There were two forts, one being an exact circle of 69 feet in diameter, the other an exact square, 55 rods on a side. The former was surrounded by two walls, with a deep ditch between them; the latter by one wall, without any ditch. Opposite each gateway a small mound was erected inside, evidently for defense.
Three and a half miles south of Circleville are the celebrated
Pickaway Plains
, said to contain the richest body of land in southern Ohio. “They are divided into two parts, the greater or upper plain, and the lesser or lower one They comprise about 20,000 acres. When first cultivated the soil was very black, the result of vegetable decomposition, and their original fertility was such as to produce one hundred bushels of corn, or fifty of wheat to the acre. Formerly the plains were adorned with a great variety of flowers.
Of all places in the west, this pre-eminently deserves the name of “classic ground,” for this was the seat of the powerful Shawnee tribe. Here, in olden time, burned the council fires of the red man; here the affairs of the nation in general council were discussed, and the important questions of peace and war decided. On these plains the allied tribes marched forth and met Gen. Lewis, and fought
Among the circumstances which invest this region with extraordinary interest, is the fact, that to those towns were brought so many of the truly unfortunate prisoners who were abducted from the neighboring states. Here they were immolated on the altar of the red men's vengeance, and made to suffer, to the death, all the tortures savage ingenuity could invent, as a sort of expiation for the aggressions of their race.
Old Chillicothe, which was the principal village, stood on the site of Westfall, on the west bank of the Scioto, 4 miles below Circleville. It was here that Logan, the Mingo chief, delivered his famous speech to John Gibson, an Indian trader.
On the envoy arriving at the village, Logan came to him and invited him into an adjoining wood, where they sat down. After shedding abundance of tears, the honored chief told his pathetic story—called a speech, although conversationally given. Gibson repeated it to the officers, who caused it to be published in the Virginia Gazette of that year, so that it fell under the observation of Mr. Jefferson, who gave it to the world in his Notes on Virginia: and is follows:
I appeal to any white man to say, if he ever entered Logan's cabin hungry, and I gave him not meat; if ever he came cold or naked, and I gave him not clothing?
During the course of the last long and bloody war, Logan remained in his tent, an advocate for peace. Nay, such was my love for the whites, that those of my own country pointed at me as they passed by, and said, “Logan is the friend of white men.” I had even thought to live with you, but for the injuries of one man. Colonel Cresap, the last spring, in cool blood, and unprovoked, cut off all the relatives of Logan; not sparing even my women and children. There runs not a drop of my blood in the veins of any human creature. This called on me for revenge. I have sought it. I have killed many. I have fully glutted my vengeance. For my country, I rejoice at the beams of peace. Yet, do not harbor the thought that mine is the joy of fear. Logan never felt fear. He will not turn on his heel to save his life. Who is there to mourn for Logan? Not one.
This brief effusion of mingled pride, courage, and sorrow, elevated the character of the native American throughout the intelligent world; and the place where it was delivered can never be forgotten so long as touching eloquence is admired by men.
The last years of Logan were truly melancholy. He wandered about from tribe to tribe, a solitary and lonely man; dejected and broken-hearted, by the loss of his friends and the decay of his tribe, he resorted to the stimulus of strong drink to drown his sorrow. He was at last murdered in Michigan, near Detroit. He was, at the time, sitting with his blanket over his head, before a camp-fire, his elbows resting on his knees, and his head upon his hands, buried in profound reflection, when an Indian, who had taken some offense, stole behind him and buried his tomahawk in his brains. Thus perished the immortal Logan, the last of his race.
At the various villages, were the burning grounds of the captives taken in war. These were on elevated sites, so that when a victim was sacrificed by fire, the smoke could be seen at the other towns.
The chief, Cornstalk, whose town was on Scippo Creek, two miles south-easterly from Old Chillicothe, was a man of true nobility of soul, and a brave warrior.
At the battle of Point Pleasant he commanded the Indians with consummate skill, and if at any time his warriors were believed to waver, his voice could be heard above the din of battle, exclaiming in his native tongue, “Be strong!—be strong!” When he returned to the Pickaway towns, after the battle, he called a council of the nation to consult what should be done, and upbraided them in not suffering him to make peace, as he desired, on the evening before the battle. “What,” said he, “will you do now? The Big Knife is coming on us, and we shall all be killed. Now you must fight or we are undone.” But no one answering, he said, “then let us kill all our women and children, and go and fight until we die.” But no answer was made, when, rising, he struck his tomahawk in a post of the council house and exclaimed, “I'll go and make peace,” to which all the warriors grunted “ough! ough!” and runners were instantly dispatched to Dunmore to solicit peace.
In the summer of 1777, he was atrociously murdered at Point Pleasant. As his murderers were approaching, his son Elinipsico trembled violently. “His father encouraged him not to be afraid, for that the
Great Man above
had sent him there to be killed and die with him. As the men advanced to the door, Cornstalk rose up and met them: they fired and seven or eight bullets went through him. So fell the great Cornstalk warrior—whose name was bestowed upon him by the consent of the nation, as their great strength and support.” Had he lived, it is believed that he would have been friendly with the Americans, as he had come over to visit the garrison at Point Pleasant to communicate the design of the Indians of uniting with the British. His grave is to be seen at Point Pleasant to the present day.
State Capitol, at Columbus.
Columbus,
the seat of justice for Franklin county, and capital of Ohio, on the left bank of the Scioto, 110 miles N.E. from Cincinnati, 100 N.W. from Marietta, and 139 S.E. from Cleveland, is on the same parallel of latitude with Zanesville and Philadelphia, and on the same meridian with Detroit, Mich., and Milledgeville, Geo.
The site of Columbus is level, and it is regularly laid out, with broad, spacious streets: Broad-street, the principal one, is 120 feet wide. In the center of the city is a public square of 10 acres, inclosed by a neat railing; and in the environs is Goodale Park, a tract of 40 acres, covered with a growth of native trees. The new state house, or capitol, is one of the most magnificent buildings in the Union. It is 304 feet long by 184 wide, and from its base to the top of the rotunda is 157 feet. The material is a hard, whitish limestone, resembling marble.
Columbus is surrounded by a rich and populous country, and is a place of active business. The National road, passes through it from east to west, and the Columbus feeder connects it with the Ohio canal. Several plank roads and turnpikes terminate here, and numerous railroads, stretching out their iron arms in every direction, give it convenient communication with all parts of the state and Union.
In the environs of the city are the various state institutions. The State Penitentiary is a large and substantial edifice; the buildings and inclosures form a hollow square of six acres; about 1,000 convicts have been confined here at one time. The Ohio Lunatic Asylum, a noble structure, occupies about an acre of ground, and has thirty acres attached to it, covered with trees and shrubbery. The Deaf and Dumb Asylum is a handsome building, surrounded with grounds laid out with taste. The Ohio Institution for the Education of the Blind is surrounded by a plot of ground, of about 9 acres, laid out with graveled walks, and planted with trees. The Starling Medical College is a handsome Gothic edifice. The Theological Seminary of the German Lutherans, is about three fourths of a mile from the center of the city. Columbus, as a commercial depot, has superior facilities, and it has numerous and extensive manufacturing establishments. Population, in 1820, 1,400; in 1840, 6,048; in 1850, 18,138; and in 1860, 18,647.
From the first organization of the state government until 1816, there was no permanent state capital. The sessions of the legislature were held at Chillicothe until 1810; the sessions of 1810-11 and 1811-12, were held at Zanesville; after that, until December, 1816, they were again held at Chillicothe, at which time the legislature was first convened at Columbus.
Among the various proposals to the legislature, while in session at Zanesville, for the establishment of a permanent seat of government, were those of Lyne Starling, James Johnston, Alex. M'Laughlin and John Kerr, the after proprietors of Columbus, for establishing it on the “high bank of the Scioto River, opposite Franklinton,” which site was then a native forest. On the 14th Feb., 1812, the legislature passed a law accepting their proposals, and in one of its sections, selected Chillicothe as a temporary seat of government merely. By an act amendatory of the other, passed Feb. 17, 1816, it was enacted, “that from and after the second Tuesday of October next, the seat of government of this state shall be established at the town of Columbus.”
Ohio White Sulphur Springs.
On the 19th of Feb., 1812, the proprietors signed and acknowledged their articles at Zanesville, as partners, under the law for the laying out, etc., of the town of Columbus. The contract having been closed between the proprietors and the state, the town was laid out in the spring of 1812, under the direction of Moses Wright.
For the first few years Columbus improved rapidly. Emigrants flowed in, apparently, from all quarters, and the improvements and general business of the place kept pace with the increase of population. Columbus, however, was a rough spot in the woods, off from any public road of much consequence. The east and west
The Ohio White Sulphur Springs
are beautifully situated on the Scioto River, in Delaware county, 17 miles north of Columbus, near the line of the Springfield, Mt. Vernon and Pittsburg Railroad. Upon the estate are four medicinal springs of different properties: one is white sulphur, one magnesian, and two chalybeate. The spring property consists of 320 acres, part of it woodland, handsomely laid off in walks and drives. The healthiness of the location and the natural attractions of the spot, joined to the liberal and generous accommodations furnished by the proprietors, have rendered this, at the present time, the most popular watering place in the west.
Newark
, the capital of Licking county, on the Central Ohio Railroad, 33 miles easterly from Columbus, is a pleasant town of about 4,000 inhabitants. Six miles west of Newark is Granville, noted for its educational institutions, male and female, and the seat of Dennison University, founded in 1832, by the Baptists. This was one of the early settled spots in Central Ohio. The annexed historical items are from the sketches of Rev. Jacob Little:
In 1804, a company was formed at Granville, Mass., with the intention of making a settlement in Ohio. This, called
“the Scioto Company,”
was the third of that name which effected settlements in this state. The project met with great favor, and much enthusiasm was elicited; in illustration of which, a song was composed and sung to the tune of
“Pleasant Ohio,”
by the young people in the house and at labor in the field. We annex two stanzas, which are more curious than poetical:
When rambling o'er those mountains
And rocks, where ivies grow
Thick as the hairs upon your head,
'Mongst which you can not go;
Great storms of snow, cold winds that blow,
We scarce can undergo;
Says I, my boys, we'll leave this place
For the pleasant Ohio.
Our precious friends that stay behind,
We're sorry now to leave;
But if they'll stay and break their shins,
For them we'll never grieve;
Adieu, my friends I come on my dears,
This journey we'll forego,
And settle Licking creek,
In yonder Ohio.
The Scioto company consisted of 114 proprietors, who made a purchase of 28,000 acres. In the autumn of 1805, 234 persons, mostly from East Granville, Mass., came on to the purchase. Although they had been forty-two days on the road, their first business, on their arrival, having organized a church before they left the east, was to hear a sermon. The first tree cut was that by which public worship was held, which stood just in front of the site of the Presbyterian church. On the first Sabbath, November 16th, although only about a dozen trees had been cut, they held divine worship, both forenoon and afternoon, at that spot. The novelty of worshiping in the woods, the forest extending hundreds of miles every way, the hardships of the journey, the winter setting in, the fresh thoughts of home, with all the friends and privileges left behind, and the impression that such must be the accommodations of a new country, all rushed on their nerves and made this a day of varied interest. When they began to sing, the echo of their voices among the trees was so different from what it was in the beautiful meeting house they had left, that they could no longer restrain their tears.
They wept when they remembered Zion.
The voices of part of the choir were for a season suppressed with emotion.
An incident occurred, which some Mrs. Sigourney should put into a poetical dress. Deacon Theophilus Reese, a Welsh Baptist, had two or three years before built a cabin a mile and a half north, and lived all this time without public worship. He had lost his cow's, and hearing a lowing of the oxen belonging to the company, set out toward them. As he ascended the hills overlooking the town-plot, he heard the singing of the choir. The reverberation of the sound from hill-tops and trees, threw the good man into a serious dilemma. The music at first seemed to be behind, then in the tops of the trees or the clouds. He stopped till, by accurate listening, he caught the direction of the sound, and went on, till passing the brow of the hill, when he saw the audience sitting on the level below. He went home and told his wife that
“the promise of God is a bond;
” a Welsh“these must be good people.
I am not afraid to go among them.” Though he could not understand English, he constantly attended the reading meeting. Hearing the music on that occasion made such an impression upon his mind, that when he became old and met the first settlers, he would always tell over this story.
Court House, Zanesville
Zanesville,
the capital of Muskingum county, is beautifully situated on the east bank of the Muskingum River, opposite the mouth of the Licking creek, 54 miles E. of Columbus, 82 from Wheeling, and 179 E.N.E. from Cincinnati. The Muskingum, in passing the town, has a natural descent of nine feet in a distance of about a mile, which is increased by dams to sixteen feet, thus affording great water-power, which is used by extensive manufactories of various kinds. The number of factories using steam power is also large, arising from the abundance of bituminous coal supplied from the surrounding hills. Steamboats can ascend from the Ohio to this point, and several make regular passages between Zanesville and Cincinnati. The Central Ohio Railroad connects it with Columbus on one hand and Wheeling on the other; the Zanesville, Wilmington and Cincinnati Railroad, about 130 miles long, terminates hero, and connects with another leading north to Cleveland.
Five bridges cross the Muskingum here, including the railroad bridge, connecting the city with Putnam, South Zanesville and West Zanesville, all of which are intimately connected with the business interests of Zanesville proper. There are 5 flouring mills, also iron founderies and machine shops, which do an extensive business. The railroad bridge is of iron, 538 feet in length, and contains 67 tuns of wrought iron and 130 tuns of cast iron. The water of the river is raised, by a forcing pump, into a reservoir on a hill 160 feet high, containing nearly a million of gallons, and from thence distributed through the city in iron pipes. Zanesville has excellent schools, among which is the Free School, supported by a fund of from $300,000 to $500,000, bequeathed by J. McIntire, one of the founders of the place. Within a circuit of a mile from the court house are about 6,000 inhabitants: within the city proper, about 10,000.
In May, 1796, congress passed a law authorizing Ebenezer Zane to open
In 1799, Messrs. Zane and M'Intire laid out the town, which they called
Westbourn
, a name which it continued to bear until a post-office was established by the postmaster general, under the name of Zanesville, and the village soon took the same name. A few families from the Kanawha, settled on the west side of the river soon after M'Culloch arrived, and the settlement received pretty numerous accessions until it became a point of importance. It contained one store and no tavern. The latter inconvenience, however, was remedied by Mr. who, for public accommodation, rather than for private emolument, opened a house of entertainment, It is due to Mr. M'Intire and his lady to say that their accommodations, though in a log cabin, were such as to render their house the traveler's home. Prior to that time there were several grog shops where travelers might stop, and after partaking of a rude supper, they could spread their blankets and bearskins on the floor, and sleep with their feet to the fire. Buopening of Mr.M'Intire's house introduced the luxury of comfortable beds, and although his board was covered with the fruits of the soil and the chase, rather than the luxuries of foreign climes, the fare was various and abundant. This, the first hotel at Zanesville, stood at what is now the corner of Market and Second-streets, a few rods from the river, in an open maple grove, without any underbrush; it was a pleasant spot, well shaded with trees, and in full view of the falls. Luis Phillippe, late king of France, was once a guest of Mr M'Intire.
At that time, all the iron, nails, castings, flour, fruit, with many other articles now produced here in abundance, were brought from Pittsburgh and Wheeling, eisner upon pack-horses across the country, or by the river in canoes. Oats and corn were usually brought about fifty miles up the river, in canoes, and were worth from 75 cents to $1 per bushel: flour, $6 to $8 per barrel. In 1802, David Harvey opened a tavern at the intersection of Third and Main-streets, which was about the first shingle-roofed house in the town. Mr. M'Intire having only kept entertainment for public accommodation, discontinued after the opening of Mr. Harvey's tavern.
In 1804, when the legislature passed an act establishing the county of Muskingum, the commissioners appointed to select a site for the county seat, reported in favor of Zanesville. The county seat having been established, the town improved more rapidly, and as the unappropriated United States military lands had been brought into market during the preceding year (1803), and a land office established at Zanesville, many purchases and settlements were made in the county.
The seat of government had been fixed temporarily at Chillicothe, but for several reasons, many members of the legislature were dissatisfied, and it was known that a change of location was desired by them.
In February, 1810, the desired law was passed, fixing the seat of government at Zanesville, until otherwise provided. The legislature sat here during the sessions of '10–'11 and '11–'12, when the present site of Columbus having been fixed upon for the permanent seat, the Chillicothe interest prevailed, and the temporary seat was once more fixed at that place, until suitable buildings could erected at Columbus.
The project of removing the seat of government had been agitated as early as 1807 or '8, and the anticipation entertained that Zanesville would be selected, gave
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments, the first three in the ancient graveyard, on the hill at the head of Main-street, in Zanesville, the others in the extensive cemetery in Putnam, the village opposite:
Sacred to the memory of
John Mcintire,
who departed this life July 29, 1815, aged 56 years. He was born at Alexandria, Virginia, laid out the town of Zanesville in 1800, of which he was the
Patron
and
Father.
He was a member of the Convention which formed the Constitution of Ohio. A kind husband, an obliging neighbor, punctual to his engagements; of liberal mind, and benevolent disposition, his death was sincerely lamented.
Sacred to the memory of
William Raynolds,
a native of Virginia, he emigrated to Ohio in 1804, and settled in the town at the foot of this hill, where he departed this life Nov. 12, 1844, aged 50 years.
Who, though formed in an age when corruption ran high,
And folly alone seemed with folly to vie;
When genius with traffic too commonly strain'd,
Recounted her merits by what she had gain'd,
Yet spurn'd at those walks of debasement and pelf,
And in poverty's spite, dared to think for himself.
Man goeth to his long home, and mourners go about the streets. Within this case lieth the mortal part of
David Harvey,
who was born in the parish of Hogen, county of Cornwall, England, June 21, 1746; arrived in Fredericktown, Md., June, 1774, and voted for the Independence of the United States; supported the war by furnishing a soldier during the term thereof, according to an act of the Assembly of that State. Arrived on the bank of the Muskingum River, at Zanesville, Ohio, 10th of Dec., 1800. Died May, 1845, aged 69 years.
William Welles,
born in Glastenbury, Conn., 1–754. Among the pioneers of the North West Territory, he shared largely in their labors, privations and perils. In 1790, he located at Cincinnati. As Commissary he was with the army of St. Clair, and was wounded in its memorable defeat. In 1800, he settled in Zanesville, subsequently he removed to Putnam, where he lived respected and beloved by all who knew him, and died universally lamented, on the 26th of Jan., 1814.
Dr. Increase Matthews,
born in Braintree, Massachusetts, Dec. 22, 1772. Died June 6, 1856. “Blessed is the man in whose spirit there is no guile.” Psalms xxxii, 2. Dr. Matthews emigrated to Marietta, Ohio, 1800. In the spring of 1801 he removed to Zanesville, and the same year bought the land which forms the cemetery, including the town plat of Putnam. For some time he was the only physician in the county. Among the early pioneers of the valley of the Muskingum, his many unostentatious virtues, and the purity and simplicity of his life and character were known and appreciated.
Coshocton
, the capital of Coshocton county, is a small village, 30 miles above Zanesville, at the forks of the Muskingum, and on the line of the Pittsburg, Columbus and Cincinnati Railroad. This vicinity was a favorite residence of the Indians, especially the Shawnees, and they had numerous villages on the Muskingum and its branches.
Before the settlement of the country, there were several military expeditions into this region. The first was made in the fall of 1764, by Col. Henry Boquet, with a large body of British regulars and borderers of Pennsylvania and Virginia. Over awed by his superiority, and unable by his vigilance to effect a surprise, the combined tribes made a peace with him, in which they agreed to deliver up their captives. The delivery took place on the 9th of November, at or near the site of Coshocton. The number brought in was 206, men, Women and children, all from
Language, indeed, can but weakly describe the scene, one to which the poet or painter might have repaired to enrich the highest colorings of the variety of the human passions, the philosopher, to find ample subject for the most serious reflection, and the man to exercise all the tender and sympathetic feelings of the soul. There were to be seen fathers and mothers recognizing and clasping their once lost babes, husbands hanging around the necks of their newly recovered wives, sisters and brothers unexpectedly meeting together, after a long separation, scarcely able to speak the same language, or for some time to be sure that they were the children of the same parents. In all these interviews joy and rapture inexpressible were seen, while feelings of a very different nature were painted in the looks of others, flying from place to place, in eager inquiries after relatives not found; trembling to receive an answer to questions; distracted with doubts, hopes and fears on obtaining no account of those they sought for; or stiffened into living monuments of horror and woe, on learning their unhappy fate.
The Indians, too, as if wholly forgetting their usual savageness, bore a capital part in hightening this most affecting scene. They delivered up their beloved captives with the utmost reluctance-shed torrents of tears over them—recommending them to the care and protection of the commanding officer. Their regard to them continued all the while they remained in camp. They visited them from day to day, brought them what corn, skins, horses, and other matters had been bestowed upon them while in their families, accompanied with other presents, and all the marks of the most sincere and tender affection. Nay, they didn't stop here, but when the army marched, some of the Indians solicited and obtained permission to accompany their former captives to Fort Pitt, and employed themselves in hunting and bringing provisions for them on the way. A young Mingo carried this still farther, and gave an instance of love which would make a figure even in romance. A young woman of Virginia was among the captives, to whom he had formed so strong an attachment as to call her his wife. Against all the remonstrances of the imminent danger to which he exposed himself by approaching the frontier, he persisted in following her, at the risk of being killed by the surviving relatives of many unfortunate persons who had been taken captive or scalped by those of his nation.
But it must not be deemed that there were not some, even grown persons, who showed an unwillingness to return. The Shawnees were obliged to bind some of their prisoners, and force them along to the camp, and some women who had been delivered up, afterward found means to escape, and went back to the Indian tribes. Some who could not make their escape, clung to their savage acquaintances at parting, and continued many days in bitter lamentations, even refusing sustenance.
In 1774, in Dunmore's war, a second expedition, of 400 Virginians, under Col. Angus M'Donald, entered the country, and destroyed the Wakatomica towns, and burnt the corn of the Indians. This was in the vicinity of Dresden, a few miles below the forks.
In the summer of 1780, a third expedition, called
“the Coshocton campaign,”
was made, under Col. Broadhead. The troops rendezvoused at Wheeling, and marched to the forks of the Muskingum. They took about 40 prisoners, whom they tomahawked and scalped in cold blood. A chief, who, under promise of protection, came to make peace, was conversing with Broadhead, when a man, named Wetzel, came behind him, and drawing a concealed tomahawk from the bosom of his hunting shirt, lifted it on high and then buried it in his brains. The confiding savage quivered, fell and expired.
In Tuscarawas county, which lies directly east and adjoining to Coshocton, as early as 1762, the Moravian missionaries, Rev. Frederick Post and John Heckewelder, established a Mission among the Indians on the Tuscarawas, where, in 1781, Mary Heckewelder, the first white child born in Ohio, first saw the light. Other missionary auxiliaries were sent out by that society, for the propagation of the Christian religion among the Indians. Among these was the Rev. David Zeisberger, a man whose devotion to the cause was attested by the hardships he endured, and the dangers he encountered. Had the same pacific policy which governed the Friends of Pennsylvania, in their treatment of the Indians, been adopted by the white settlers
They had three stations on the Tuscarawas River, or rather three Indian villages, viz: Shoenbrun, Gnadenhutten and Salem. The site of the first is about two miles south of New Philadelphia; seven miles farther south was Gnadenhutten, in the immediate vicinity of the present village of that name; and about five miles below that was Salem, a short distance from the village of Port Washington. The first and last mentioned were on the west side of the Tuscarawas, now near the margin of the Ohio canal. Gnadenhutten is on the east side of the river. It was here that a massacre took place on the 8th of March, 1782, which, for cool barbarity, is perhaps unequaled in the history of the Indian wars.
The Moravian villages on the Tuscarawas were situated about mid-way between the white settlements near the Ohio, and some warlike tribes of Wyandots and Delawares on the Sandusky. These latter were chiefly in the service of England, or at least opposed to the colonists, with whom she was then at war. There was a British station at Detroit, and an American one at Fort Pitt (Pittsburg), which were regarded as the nucleus of western operations by each of the contending parties. The Moravian villages of friendly Indians on the Tuscarawas were situated, as the saying is, between two fires. As Christian converts and friends of peace, both policy and inclination led them to adopt neutral grounds.
Several depredations had been committed by hostile Indians about this time, on the frontier inhabitants of western Pennsylvania and Virginia, who determined to retaliate. A company of one hundred men was raised and placed under the command of Col. Williamson, as a corps of volunteer militia. They set out for the Moravian towns on the Tuscarawas, and arrived within a mile of Gnadenhutten on the night of the 5th of March. On the morning of the 6th, finding the Indians were employed in their corn-field, on the west side of the river, sixteen of Williamson's men crossed, two at a time, over in a large sap-trough, or vessel used for retaining sugar water, taking their rifles with them. The remainder went into the village, where they found a man and a woman, both of whom they killed. The sixteen on the west side, on approaching the Indians in the field, found them more numerous than they expected. They had their arms with them, which was usual on such occasions, both for purposes of protection and for killing game. The whites accosted them kindly, told them they had come to take them to a place where they would be in future protected, and advised them to quit work, and return with them to the neighborhood of Fort Pitt. Some of the Indians had been taken to that place in the preceding year, had been well treated by the American governor of the fort, and been dismissed with tokens of warm friendship. Under these circumstances, it is not surprising that the unsuspecting Moravian Indians readily surrendered their arms, and at once consented to be controlled by the advice of Col. Williamson and his men. An Indian messenger was dispatched to Salem, to apprise the brethren there of the new arrangement, and both companies returned to Gnadenhutten.
On reaching the village, a number of mounted militia started for the Salem settlement, but e'er they reached it, found that the Moravian Indians at that place had already left their corn-fields, by the advice of the messenger, and were on the road to join their brethren at Gnadenhutten. Measures had been adopted by the militia to secure the Indians whom they had at first decoyed into their power. They were bound, confined in two houses and well guarded. On the arrival of the Indians from Salem (their arms having been previously secured without suspicion of any hostile intention), they were also fettered, and divided between the two prison houses, the males in one, and the females in the other. The number thus confined in both, including men, women and children, have been estimated from ninety to ninety-six.
A council was then held to determine how the Moravian Indians should be disposed of. This self constituted military court embraced both officers and privates. The late Dr. Dodridge, in his published notes on Indian wars, etc., says: “Colonel Williamson put the question, whether the Moravian Indians should be taken prisoners to Fort Pitt, or
put to death?
” requesting those who were in favor of saving their lives to step out and form a second rank. Only eighteen out of the whole number stepped forth as the advocates of mercy. In these the feelings of humanity were not extinct. In the majority, which was large, no sympathy was manifested. They resolved to murder (for no other word can express
Thus were upward of ninety human beings hurried to an untimely grave by those who should have been their legitimate protectors. After committing the barbarous act, Williamson and his men set fire to the houses containing the dead, and then marched off for Shoenbrun, the upper Indian town. But here the news of their atrocious deeds had preceded them. The inhabitants had all fled, and with them fled for a time the hopes of the missionaries to establish a settlement of Christian Indians on the Tuscarawas. The fruits of ten years' labor in the cause of civilization were apparently lost.
Those engaged in the campaign, were generally men of standing at home. When the expedition was formed, it was given out to the public that its sole object was to remove the Moravians to Pittsburg, and by destroying the villages, deprive the hostile savages of a shelter. In their towns, various articles plundered from the whites, were discovered. One man is said to have found the bloody clothes of his wife and children, who had recently been murdered. These articles, doubtless, had been purchased of the hostile Indians. The sight of these, it is said, bringing to mind the forms of murdered relations, wrought them up to an uncontrollable pitch of frenzy, which nothing but blood could satisfy.
In the year 1799, when the remnant of the Moravian Indians were recalled by the United States to reside on the same spot, all old Indian, in company with a young man by the name of Carr, walked over the desolate scene, and showed to the white man an excavation, which had formerly been a cellar, and in which were still some moldering bones of the victims, though seventeen years had passed since their tragic death—the tears, in the meantime, falling down the wrinkled face of this aged child of the Tuscarawas.
The Mission, having been resumed, was continued in operation until the year 1823, when the Indians sold out their lands to the United States, and removed to a Moravian station on the Thames, in Canada. The faithful Zeisberger died and was buried at Goshen, the last abiding place of his flock. In a small graveyard there, a little marble slab bears the following inscription:
David Zeisberger,
who was born 11th April, 1721, in Moravia, and departed this life 7th Nov., 1808, aged 87 years, 7 months and 6 days. This faithful servant of the Lord labored among the Moravian Indians, as a missionary, during the last sixty years of his life.
Steubenville,
the capital of Jefferson county, is situated on the right bank of the Ohio, on an elevated plain, 150 miles from Columbus, 36, in a direct line, from Pittsburgh, and 75 by the river, and 22 above Wheeling, Va. It is surrounded by a beautiful country, and is the center of an extensive trade, and flourishing manufactories of various kinds, which are supplied with fuel from the inexhaustible mines of stone coal in the vicinity. The Female Seminary at this place, situated on the bank of the river, is a flourishing institution, and has a widely extended reputation. It contains about 9,000 inhabitants.
Steubenville was laid out in 1798, by Bezabel Wells and James Ross. It derives its name from Fort Steuben, which was erected in 1789, on High-street, near the site of the Female Seminary. It was built of block-houses connected by palisade fences, and was dismantled at the time of Wayne's victory, previous to which it
The old Mingo town, three miles below Steubenville, was a place of note prior to the settlement of the country. It was the point where the troops of Col. Williamson rendezvoused in the infamous Moravian campaign, and those of Colonel Crawford, in his unfortunate expedition against the Sandusky Indians. It was also, at one time, the residence of Logan, the celebrated Mingo chief, whose form was striking and manly, and whose magnanimity and eloquence have seldom been equaled. He was a son of the Cayuga chief Skikellimus, who dwelt at Shamokin, Pa., in 1742, and was converted to Christianity under the preaching of the Moravian missionaries. Skikellimus highly esteemed James Logan, the secretary of the province, named his son from him, and probably had him baptized by the missionaries.
View in Steubenville.
The engraving shows the appearance of Market-street, looking westward, near the Court House, which appears on the right; a portion of the Market on the left; the Steubenville and Indiana Railroad crosses Market-street in the distance, near which are Woolen Factories.
Logan took no part in the old French war, which ended in 1760, except that of a peace maker, and was always the friend of the white people until the base murder of his family to which has been attributed the origin of Dunmore's war. This event took place near the mouth of Yellow creek, in this county, about 17 miles above Steubenville. During the war which followed, Logan frequently showed his magnanimity to prisoners who fell into his hands.
Conneaut
, in Ashtabula county, the north-eastern corner township of Ohio, is on Lake Erie, and on the Lake Shore Railroad, 67 miles east of Cleveland; it is distinguished as the landing place of the party who made the first settlement of northern Ohio, in 1796; hence it is sometimes called the
Plymouth
of the Western Reserve. There is a good harbor at the mouth of Conneaut creek, and a light house.
On the 4th of July, 1796, the first surveying party of the Western Reserve landed at the mouth of Conneaut creek. Of this event, John Barr, Esq., in his sketch of the Western Reserve, in the National Magazine for December, 1845, has given the following sketch:
The sons of revolutionary sires, some of them sharers of themselves in the great baptism of the republic, they made the anniversary of their country's freedom atin cups
of no rare workmanship, yet every way answerable, with the ordnance accompaniment of two or three fowling pieces discharging the required national salute—the first settlers of the Reserve spent their landing-day as became the sons of the Pilgrim Fathers —as the advance pioneers of a population that has since made the then wilderness of northern Ohio to “blossom as the rose,” and prove the homes of a people as remarkable for integrity, industry, love of country, moral truth and enlightened legislation, as any to be found within the territorial limits of their ancestral New England.
The whole party numbered on this occasion, fifty-two persons, of whom two were females (Mrs. Stiles and Mrs. Gunn, and a child). As these individuals were the advance of after millions of population, their names become worthy of record, and are therefore given, viz: Moses Cleveland, agent of the company; Augustus Porter, principal surveyor; Seth Pease, Moses Warren, Amos Spafford, Milton Hawley, Richard M. Stoddard, Surveyors; Joshua Stowe, commissary; Theodore Shepard, physician; Joseph Tinker, principal boatman; Joseph McIntyre, George Proudfoot, Francis Gay, Samuel Forbes, Elijah Gunn, wife and child, Amos Sawten, Stephen Benton, Amos Barber, Samuel Hungerford, William B. Hall, Samuel Davenport, Asa Mason, Amzi Atwater, Michael Coffin, Elisha Ayres, Thomas Harris, Norman Wilcox, Timothy Dunham, George Goodwin, Shadrach Benham, Samuel Agnew, Warham Shepard, David Beard, John Briant, Titus V. Munson, Joseph Landon, Job V. Stiles and wife, Charles Parker, Ezekiel Hawley, Nathaniel Doan, Luke Hanchet, James Hasket, James Hamilton, Olney F. Rice, John Lock, and four others whose names are not mentioned.
On the 5th of July, the workmen of the expedition were employed in the erection of a large, awkwardly constructed log building; locating it on the sandy beach on the east shore of the stream, and naming it “Stowe Castle,” after one of the party. This became the storehouse of the provisions, etc., and the dwelling-place of the families. No permanent settlement was made at Conneaut until 1799, three years later.
Judge James Kingsbury, who arrived at Conneaut shortly after the surveying party, wintered with his family at this place, in a cabin which stood on a spot now covered by the waters of the lake. This was about the first family that wintered on the Reserve.
The story of the sufferings of this family have often been told, but in the midst of plenty, where want is unknown, can with difficulty be appreciated. The surveyors, in the prosecution of their labors westwardly, had principally removed their stores to Cleveland, while the family of Judge Kingsbury remained at Conneaut. Being compelled by business to leave in the fall for the state of New York, with the hope of a speedy return to his family, the judge was attacked by a severe fit of sickness confining him to his bed until the setting in of winter. As soon as able he proceeded on his return as far as Buffalo, where he hired an Indian to guide him through the wilderness. At Presque Isle, anticipating the wants of his family, he purchased twenty pounds of flour. In crossing Elk creek, on the ice, he disabled his horse, left him in the snow, and mounting his flour on his own back, pursued his way, filled with gloomy forebodings in relation to the fate of his family. On his arrival late one evening, his worst apprehensions were more than realized in a scene agonizing to the husband and father. Stretched on her cot lay the partner of his cares, who had followed him through all the dangers and hardships of the wilderness without repining, pale and emaciated, reduced by meager famine to the last stages in which life can be supported, and near the mother, on a little pallet, were the remains of his youngest child, born in his absence, who had just expired for the want of that nourishment which the mother, deprived of sustenance, was unable to give. Shut up by a gloomy wilderness, she
Such is the picture presented, by which the wives and daughters of the present day may form some estimate of the hardships endured by the pioneers of this beautiful country. It appears that Judge Kingsbury, in order to supply the wants of his family, was under the necessity of transporting his provisions from Cleveland on a hand sled, and that himself and hired man drew a barrel of beef the whole distance at a single load.
Mr. Kingsbury subsequently held several important judicial and legislative trusts, and until within a few years since, was living at Newburg, about four miles distant from Cleveland. He was the first who thrust a sickle into the first wheat field planted on the soil of the Reserve. His wife was interred at Cleveland, about the year 1843. The fate of her child—the
first white child born on the Reserve, starved to death
for want of nourishment—will not soon be forgotten.
View in Superior-street, Cleveland.
The view shows the appearance of Superior-street looking westward. The Weddel House is seen on the right. The Railroad, Canal, and Cuyahuga River, all pass within a few rods westward of the four story building seen at the head of the street.
Cleveland,
the capital of Cuyahoga county, on the south shore of Lake Erie, at the mouth of the Cuyahoga River, is, next to Cincinnati, the most commercial city in the state, and with the exception of Chicago, Detroit and Buffalo, of all the lake cities. It has great natural facilities for trade, and is connected with the interior and Ohio River by the Ohio Canal and several railroads. The various railroads terminating here are, the Cleveland and Toledo, Cleveland, Columbus and Cincinnati, Cleveland and Mahoning, Cleveland and Pittsburg, Cleveland and Erie, and Cleveland, Zanesville and Cincinnati. It has a good harbor, which has been improved by piers extending into the lake. It is situated 135 miles E.N.E. from Columbus, 255 from Cincinnati, 130 from Pittsburg, 130 from Detroit, 183 from Buffalo, and 455 from New York. The location of the city is beautiful, being on a gravelly
62
Cleveland has 2 medical colleges, one of which is the Western Reserve Medical College, the other is of the Homœpathie school, a fine female seminary on Kinsman's-street, 2 Roman Catholic convents, and a variety of benevolent institutions. Ohio City, on the west side of the city, formerly a separate corporation, is now comprised in Cleveland. Population, in 1796, 3; 1798, 16; 1825, 500; 1840, 6,071; 1850, 17,034; and in 1860, it was 43,550.
As early as 1755, there was a French station within the present limits of Cuyahoga county, that in which Cleveland is situated. On Lewis Evans' map of the middle British colonies, published that year, there is marked upon the west bank of the Cuyahoga, the words,
“French house,”
which was doubtless the station of a French trader. The ruins of a house supposed to be those of the one alluded to, have been discovered on Foot's farm, in Brooklyn township, about five miles from the mouth of the Cuyahoga The small engraving annexed, is from the map of Evans, and delineates the geography as in the original.
L. ERIE
In 1786, the Moravian missionary Zeisberger, with his Indian converts, left Detroit, and arrived at the mouth of the Cuyahoga, in a vessel called the Mackinaw. From thence, they proceeded up the river about ten miles from the site of Cleveland, and settled in an abandoned village of the Ottawas, within the present limits of Independence, which they called
Pilgerruh
, i. e.
Pilgrim's rest.
Their stay was brief, for in the April following, they left for Huron River, and settled near the site of Milan, Erie county, at a locality they named
New Salem.
The British who, after the revolutionary war, refused to yield possession of the lake country west of the Cuyahoga, occupied to its shores until 1790. Their traders
The city was originally comprised in lands purchased by the Connecticut Land Company,” and formed a portion of what is termed the Western Reserve. This company was organized in 1795, and in the month of May following, it commissioned Gen. Moses Cleveland to superintend the survey of their lands, with a staff of forty-eight assistants. On July 22, 1796, Gen. Cleveland, accompanied by Agustus Porter, the principal of the surveying department, and several others, entered the mouth of the Cuyahoga from the lake, but as they were engaged in making a traverse, they continued their progress to Sandusky Bay. In the interim, Job P. Stiles and his wife and Joseph Tinker arrived in a boat with provisions, and were employed in constructing a house about half way from the top of the bank to the shore of the river, a short distance north of Main (Superior) street. On the return of the party from Sandusky, they surveyed and made a plat of the present city of Cleveland.
The first building erected in Cleveland, is supposed to have been in 1786, by Col. James Hillman, of Youngstown, Mahoning county, who was engaged in conveying flour and bacon from Pittsburg to the mouth of the Cuyahoga, for the use of the British army in the upper lakes. He visited the site of Cleveland six times, and on one occasion caused a small cabin to be erected “near a spring in the hill side, within a short distance of what is now the western termination of Superior-street.” It is probable that Stiles and Tinker availed themselves of this site, and possibly it furnished a part of the materials to erect their hut.
In the winter of 1796-7, the population consisted of three inhabitants. Early in the spring of 1797, James Kingsbury and family, from New England, and Elijah Gunn removed to Cleveland. The next families who came here were those of Maj. Carter and Ezekiel Hawley, from Kirtland, the family of the major being accompanied by Miss Cloe Inches. In the spring of the following year (1798), Maj. Carter sowed two acres of corn on the west side of Water-street. He was the first person who erected a frame building in the city, which he completed in 1802. On the 1st of July, 1797, William Clement was married to Cloe Inches. The ceremony of this first marriage was performed by Seth Hart, who was regarded by the surveying party as their chaplain. In 1799, Rodolphus Edwards and Nathaniel Doane with their families, emigrated from Chatham, Conn., to Cleveland, being ninety-two days on their journey. In the autumn of this year, the whole colony, without exception, were afflicted with the fever and ague.
The following historical items were taken from the Traveler, and published in the Cleveland Weekly Herald, Jan. 5, 1859:
The first city school was held in Maj. Carter's house in 1802, and the children were taught by Anna Spafford. The first postoffice was established here in 1804, when letters were received and transmitted every seven days. In the same year the first militia training occurred. The place of rendezvous was Doane's corner, and the muster amounted to about fifty men. In 1805, the harbor was made a port of entry, and classed within the Erie district. In the same year the territory on the west side of the Cuyahoga was ceded to the states by treaty. In 1809, Joel Thorpe and Amos Simpson each built a boat at Newberg, of six or seven tuns, and conveyed them in wagons to the harbor, where they were launched. The first judicial trial took place in 1812. It was held in the open air, beneath the shade of a cherry tree, which then stood at the corner of Water and Superior-streets: it being a charge of murder against an Indian, called John O'Mic, who was convicted and executed. A court house was erected this year on the public square, opposite the place where the stone church now stands. It was an unique structure; dungeons were excavated underneath for a city jail. In 1815, Cleveland was incorporated with a village charter, and Alfred Kelley was the first president. Mr. Kelley was the first attorney in Cleveland. The first brick house in the city was that of J. R. and J. Kelley, in 1814, in Superior-street. This edifice was soon succeeded by another, built by Alfred Kelley, still standing in Water-street. In 1816,“The Cleveland Gazette and Commercial Register,”
was issued. On the 1st of Sept., the same year, steamed in the “Walk-in-the-Water,” the first steamboat which entered the harbor. It was commanded by Capt. Fish, hailed from Buffalo, and was on its way to Detroit.
In 1819, Mr. Barber built a log hut on the west side of the harbor, and may be considered as the first permanent settler in Ohio City. The first Presbyterian church was organized in 1820, and the stone church was erected on the public square in 1834. In 1821, the first Sunday school was established in Cleveland, which was attended by twenty scholars. In 1825, an appropriation of $5,000 was made by the government for the improvement of the harbor, and during this year the first steamboat was built here, and the Ohio Canal commenced. In 1827, the Cuyahoga Furnace Company commenced their manufactory, being the first iron works erected in the city. In 1830, the light house was built at the termination of Water-street, the lantern of which is 135 feet above the water level. In 1832, the Ohio Canal was completed. It had occupied seven years in its construction, is 307 miles in length, and cost $5,000,000. In 1836, Cleveland was incorporated a city: the first mayor was John Willey. In 1840, the population had increased to 6,071; in 1845, to 12,206. In 1851, Feb. 23d, the Cleveland, Columbus and Cincinnati Railroad was opened for travel, and on the same day, forty miles of the Cleveland and Pittsburg Railroad were likewise completed. Population, this year, 21,140. The United States Marine Hospital, on the banks of the lake, was completed in 1852; it was commenced in 1844.
Eastern view of Toledo.
The view shows the appearance of part of Toledo, as seen from the opposite bank of the Maumee, at one of the Ferry landings. The Island House, the Union Passenger Depot, and the Telegraph Station appear on the left.
Toledo,
is a city and port of entry, in Lucas county, on the western bank of the Maumee, 4 miles from its mouth, and 10 miles from Lake Erie, 134 miles N.W. of Columbus, 66 S.S.W. of Detroit, and 100 W. of Cleveland, and 246, by canal, N. of Cincinnati. It is the terminus of the Wabash and Erie Canal, the longest in the Union; also of the Miami and Erie Canal.
The Michigan Southern Railroad and the air-line railroad passing through northern Indiana, the Toledo, Wabash and Western Road, the Toledo and Detroit Road, the northern and southern divisions of the Cleveland and Toledo Road, and the Dayton and Michigan Road, all terminate here in a common center at the Union Depot. The river is about half a mile wide here, and forms a harbor admitting the largest lake vessels. Population in 1860, 13,784.
Toledo covers the site of a stockade fort, called Fort Industry, erected about the year 1800, near what is now Summit-street. The site of the town originally was two distinct settlements—the upper, Port Lawrence, the lower, Vistula.
In the summer of 1832, Vistula, under the impetus given it by Captain Samuel Allen, from Lockport, N. Y., and Major Stickney, made quite a noise as a promising place for a town. At the same time arrangements were being made by Major Oliver and Micajah T. Williams, of Cincinnati, with Daniel O. Comstock and Stephen B. Comstock, brothers, from Lockport, for the resuscitation of Port Lawrence, at the mouth of Swan creek. The Comstocks took an interest, and became the agents of the Port Lawrence property.
No sales of any importance were made before 1833. In Vistula, the first store was started by Mr. E. Briggs; W. J. Daniels was his clerk. Soon after Flagg & Bissell opened a more extensive store of goods—probably the first good assortment for the use of white people. In 1833, not much progress was made toward building a town in Vistula or Port Lawrence. In 1834, speculation in lots began, and with slight intermission continued until the spring of 1837. Mr. Edward Bissell, from Lockport, a man of enterprise and activity, became a part owner, and gave a great impetus to the growth of Vistula. Through him and the Port Lawrence owners, many men of influence became interested in the new towns. Among these, Judge Mason, from Livingston county, N. Y., deserves mention, as he became agent of Mr. Bissell and the other chief owners, and made Vistula his place of residence.
In Port Lawrence the first Toledo steamer was built, and called the Detroit. She was of one hundred and twenty tuns, and commanded by Capt. Baldwin, son of a sea captain of that name, who was one of the earliest settlers in that place.
In 1836, Toledo was incorporated as a city. The same year the Wabash and Erie Canal was located, but was not so far finished as to make its business felt until 1845, when the Miami and Erie Canal was opened through from Lake Erie to the Ohio, at Cincinnati.
In 1835, Toledo was the center of the military operations in the “Ohio and Michigan war”—originating in the boundary dispute between the two states. The militia of both states were called out and marched to the disputed territory, under their respective governors—Lucas, of Ohio, and Mason, of Michigan. No blood was shed, although, at one time, serious results were threatened. Michigan claimed a narrow strip on her southern border of eight miles wide, which brought Toledo into that state. The matter was referred to congress, who ceded to Michigan the large peninsula between Lakes Huron, Superior and Michigan, now known as the copper region in lieu of the territory in dispute.
PLAN ILLUSTRATING THE BATTLES OF THE MAUMEE.
[
Explanations.
—The map shows about eight miles of the country along each side of the Maumee, including the towns of Perrysburg, Maumee City and Waterville.
Just previous to the battle of the Fallen Timbers, in August, 1794, Wayne's army was encamped at a locality called
Roche de Bœuf
, a short distance above the present site of Waterville. The battle commenced at the
Presque Isle
hill. The routed Indians were pursued to even under the guns of the British
Fort Miami.
Fort Meigs
, memorable from having sustained two sieges in the year 1813, is shown on the east side of the Maumee, with the British batteries on both sides of the river, and near the
British fort
, is the site of
Proctor's encampment.
]
The Maumee Valley in which Toledo is situated, is noted in the early history of the country. It was a favorite point with the Indians, particularly that part in the vicinity of the villages of Maumee City and Perrysburg, about nine miles south of Toledo. As early as 1680, the French had a trading station just below the site of Maumee City; and in 1794, the British built Fort Miami on the same spot. This was within American territory, and from this point the British traders instigated the Indians to outrages upon the American settlements. Two important events occurred in this vicinity —the victory of Wayne, August 20, 1794, and the siege of Fort Meigs, in the war of 1812.
Wayne's battle ground is about three miles south of Maumee City, on the west side of the river. He approached from the south, having with him about three thousand men, of whom sixteen hundred were Kentuckians under Gen. Scott. From Wayne's official report we make the annexed extract, which contains the principal points of this important victory:
The legion was on the right, its flanks covered by the Maumee: one brigade of
After advancing about five miles, Major Price's corps received so severe a fire from the enemy, who were secreted in the woods and high grass, as to compel them to retreat. The legion was immediately formed in two lines, principally in a close thick wood, which extended for miles on our left, and for a very considerable distance in front; the ground being covered with old fallen timber, probably occasioned by a tornado, which rendered it impracticable for the cavalry to act with effect, and afforded the enemy the most favorable covert for their mode of warfare. The savages were formed in three lines, within supporting distance of each other, and extending for near two miles at right angles with the river. I soon discovered, from the weight of the fire and extent of their lines, that the enemy were in full force in front, in possession of their favorite ground, and endeavoring to turn our left flank. I therefore gave orders for the second line to advance and support the first; and directed Major General Scott to gain and turn the right flank of the savages, with the whole force of the mounted volunteers, by a circuitous route; at the same time I ordered the front line to advance and charge with trailed arms, and rouse the Indians from their coverts at the point of the bayonet, and when up, to deliver a close and well-directed fire on their backs, followed by a brisk charge, so as not to give them time to load again.
Wayne's Battle Ground.
The view is from the north, showing on the left the Maumee and in front Presque Isle Hill. On the right by the roadside, is the noted Turkey Foot Rock.
* At this spot says tradition, an Indian chief named Turkey Foot, rallied a few of his men and stood upon it fighting until his strength becoming exhausted from loss of blood, he fell and breathed his last. Upon it have been carved by the Indians, representations of turkey's feet, now plainly to be seen, and it is said “the early settlers of and travelers through the Maumee valley, usually found many small pieces of tobacco deposited on this rock, which had been placed there by the Indians as devotional acts, by way of sacrifices, to appease the indignant spirit of the departed hero.”
I also ordered Captain Mis Campbell, who commanded the legionary cavalry, to turn the left flank of the enemy next the river, and which afforded a favorable field for that corps to act in. All these orders were obeyed with spirit and promptitude; but such was the impetuosity of the charge by the first line of infantry, that the Indians and Canadian militia and volunteers were driven from all their coverts in so short a time, that although every possible exertion was used by the officers of the second line of the legion, and by Generals Scott, Todd and Barbee, of the mounted volunteers, to gain their proper positions, but part of each could get up in season to participate in the action; the enemy being driven, in the course of one hour, more than two miles through the thick woods already mentioned, by less than one half their numbers. From every account the enemy amounted to two thousand combatants. The troops actually engaged against them were short of nine hundred. This horde of savages, with their allies, abandoned themselves to fight, and dispersed with terror and dismay, leaving our victorious army in full and quiet possession of the field of battle, which terminated under the influence of the guns of the British garrison.
The loss of the enemy was more than that of the federal army. The woods were
We remained three days and nights on the banks of the Maumee, in front of the field of battle, during which time all the houses and corn-fields were consumed and destroyed for a considerable distance, both above and below Fort Miami, as well as within pistol-shot of the garrison, who were compelled to remain tacit spectators to this general devastation and conflagration, among which were the houses, stores and property of Colonel M'Kee, the British Indian agent and principal stimulator of the war now existing between the United States and the savages.”
The loss of the Americans in this battle, was 33 killed and 100 wounded, including 5 officers among the killed, and 19 wounded. One of the Canadians taken in the action, estimated the force of the Indians at about 1400. He also stated that about 70 Canadians were with them, and that Col. M'Kee, Capt. Elliott and Simon Girty were in the field, but at a respectable distance, and near the river.
When the broken remains of the Indian army were pursued under the British fort, the soldiers could scarcely be restrained from storming it. This, independent of its results in bringing on a war with Great Britain, would have been a desperate measure, as the fort mounted 10 pieces of artillery, and was garrison by 450 men, while Wayne had no armament proper to attack such a strongly fortified place. While the troops remained in the vicinity, there did not appear to be any communication between the garrison and the savages. The gates were shut against them, and their rout and slaughter witnessed with apparent unconcern by the British. That the Indians were astonished at the lukewarmness of their real allies, and regarded the fort, in case of defeat, as a place of refuge, is evident from various circumstances, not the least of which was the well known reproach of Tecumseh, in his celebrated speech to Proctor, after Perry's victory. The near approach of the troops drew forth a remonstrance from Major Campbell, the British commandant, to General Wayne.“be a gentleman! be a gentleman!
”
* Gen. Wayne was a man of most ardent impulses, and in the heat of action apt to forget that he was the general—not the soldier. When the attack on the Indians who were concealed behind the fallen timbers, was commencing by ordering the regulars up, the late Gen. Harrison, then aid to Wayne, being lieutenant with the title of major, addressed his superior—“Gen. Wayne, I am afraid you will get into the fight yourself, and forget to give me the necessary field orders.” “Perhaps I may, replied Wayne, “and if I do, recollect the standing order for the day is, charge the rascals with the bayonet.”
† That the Indian war was in a great measure sustained by British influences, admits of ample proof. Gen. Harrison, in his letter to Hon. Thomas Chilton, shows this from his own personal observation, and concludes it with this sentence. “If then the relation I have given is correct,
the war of the revolution continued in the western country, until the peace of Greenville, in 1795.”
After the defeat and massacre of the Kentuckians under Winchester at the River Raisin, near the site of Monroe, Michigan, in February, 1813, Gen. Harrison commander-in-chief of the army of the north-west, established his advance post at the foot of the Maumee Rapids and erected a fort, subsequently named Meigs, in honor of Governor Meigs.
“On the breaking up of the ice in Lake Erie, General Proctor, with all his disposable force, consisting of regulars and Canadian militia from Malden, and a large body of Indians under their celebrated chief, Tecumseh, amounting in the whole to two thousand men, laid siege to Fort Meigs. To encourage the Indians, he had
“At twelve o'clock in the night of the fourth, an officer
* This messenger was Capt. William Oliver, post master at Cincinnati in Taylor's administration, then a young man, noted for his heroic bravery. He had previously been sent from the fort at a time when it was surrounded by Indians, through the wilderness, with instructions to General Clay. His return to the fort was extremely dangerous. Capt. Leslie Coombs, now of Lexington, Ky., had been sent by Col. Dudley to communicate with Harrison. He approached the fort, and when within about a mile, was attacked by the Indians and after a gallant resistance was foiled in his object and obliged to retreat with the loss of nearly all of his companions. Oliver managed to get into the fort through the cover of the darkness of the night, by which he eluded the vigilance of Tecumseh and his Indians, who were very watchful and had closely invested it.
“Col. Dudley, with his detachment of eight hundred Kentucky militia, completely
* This defeat was occasioned by the impetuous valor of his men. In one of the general orders after the 5th of May, Harrison takes occasion to warn his men against that rash bravery which he says
“is characteristic of the Kentucky troops, and if persisted in is as fatal in its results as cowardice.”
After Dudley had spiked the batteries, which had but few defenders, some of his men loitered about the banks and filled the air with cheers. Harrison, and a group of officers, who were anxiously watching them from the grand battery, with a presentiment of the horrible fate that awaited them, earnestly beckoned them to return. Supposing they were returning their cheers, they reiterated their shouts of triumph. Harrison seeing this, exclaimed in tones of anguish,
“they are lost! they are lost!—can I never get men to obey my orders?” He then offered a reward of a thousand dollars to any man who would cross the river and apprise Col. Dudley of his danger. This was undertaken by an officer, but he was too late.
Hon. Joseph R. Underwood, then a lieutenant, has given some extremely interesting details of the horrible scenes which ensued; says he:
“On our approach to the old garrison, the Indians formed a line to the left of the road, there being a perpendicular bank to the right, on the margin of which the road passed. I perceived that the prisoners were running the gauntlet, and that the Indians were whipping, shooting and tomahawking the men as they ran by their line. When I reached the starting place, I dashed off as fast as I was able, and ran near the muzzles of their guns, knowing that they would have to shoot me while I was immediately in front, or let me pass, for to have turned their guns up or down their lines to shoot me, would have endangered themselves, as there was a curve in their line. In this way I passed without injury, except some strokes over the shoulders with their gun-sticks. As I entered the ditch around the garrison, the man before me was shot and fell, and I fell over him. The passage for a while was stopped by those who fell over the dead man and myself. How many lives were lost at this place I can not tell—probably between 20 and 40. The brave Captain Lewis was among the number. When we got within the walls, we were ordered to sit down. I lay in the lap of Mr. Gilpin, a soldier of Captain Henry's company, from Woodford. A new scene commenced. An Indian, painted black, mounted the dilapidated wall, and shot one of the prisoners next to him. He reloaded and shot a second, the ball passing through him into the hip of another, who afterward died, I was informed, at Cleveland, of the wound. The savage then laid down his gun and drew his tomahawk, with which he killed two others. When he drew his tomahawk and jumped down among the men, they endeavored to escape from him by leaping over the heads of each other, and thereby to place others between themselves and danger. Thus they were heaped upon one another, and as I did not rise, they trampled upon me so that I could see
nothing that was going on. The confusion and uproar of this moment can not be adequately described. There was an excitement among the Indians, and a fierceness in their conversation, which betokened on the part of some a strong disposition to massacre the whole of us. The British officers and soldiers seemed to interpose to prevent the further effusion of blood. Their expression was
“Oh, nichee, wah!” meaning, “oh! brother, quit!” After the Indian who had occasioned this horrible scene, had scalped and stripped his victims, he left us, and a comparative calm ensued. The prisoners resumed their seats on the ground. While thus situated, a tall, stout Indian walked into the midst of us, drew a long butcher knife from his belt and commenced whetting it. As he did so, he looked around among the prisoners, apparently selecting one for the gratification of his vengeance. I viewed his conduct, and thought it probable that he was to give the signal for a general massacre. But after exciting our fears sufficiently for his satisfaction, he gave a contemptuous grunt and went out from among us.
When it was near night, we were taken in open boats about nine miles down the river, to the British shipping. On the day after, we were visited by the Indians, in their bark canoes, in order to make a display of their scalps. These they strung on a pole, perhaps two inches in diameter, and about eight feet high. The pole was set up perpendicularly in the bow of their canoes, and near the top the scalps were fastened. On some poles I saw four or five. Each scalp was drawn closely over a hoop about four inches in diameter; and the flesh sides, I thought, were painted red. Thus their canoes were decorated with a flagstaff of a most appropriate character, bearing human scalps, the horrid ensigns of savage warfare.”
Proctor seeing no prospect of taking the fort, and finding his Indians fast leaving him, raised the siege on the 9th of May, and returned with precipitation to Malden. Tecumseh and a considerable portion of the Indians remained in service; but large numbers left in disgust, and were ready to join the Americans. On the left bank, in the several sorties of the 5th of May, and during the siege, the American loss was eighty-one killed and one hundred and eighty-nine wounded.
The British force under Proctor, during the siege, amounted, as nearly as could be ascertained, to 3,200 men, of whom 600 were British regulars, 800 Canadian militia, and 1,800 Indians. Those under Harrison, including the troops who arrived on the morning of the 5th, under Gen. Clay, were about 1,200. The number of his men fit for duty, was, perhaps, less than 1,100.”
* “During the siege,” says an eye witness, “one of our militia men took his station on the embankment, and gratuitously forewarned us of every shot. In this he became so skillful that he could, in almost every case, predict the destination of the ball. As soon as the smoke issued from the muzzle of the gun, he would cry out,
“shot,” or
“bomb,” as the case might be. Sometimes he would exclaim, “block-house No. 1,” or
“look-out main battery;”
“now for the meat-house;” “good-by, if you will pass.” In spite of all the expostulations of his friends, he maintained his post. One day there came a shot that seemed to defy all his calculations. He stood silent—motionless—perplexed. In the
same instant he was swept into eternity. Poor man! he should have considered, that when there is no obliquity in the issue of the smoke, either to the right or left, above or below, the fatal messenger would travel in the direct line of his vision. He reminded me of the peasant, in the siege of Jerusalem, who cried out,
“woe to the city! woe to the temple! woe to myself!”
On the 20th of July, the enemy, to the number of 5,000, again appeared before Fort Meigs, and commenced a second siege. The garrison was, at the time, under the command of Gen. Green Clay, of Kentucky. Finding the fort too strong, they remained but a few days.
Sandusky City,
port of entry, and capital of Erie county, is situated on the southern shore of Sandusky Bay, 3 miles from Lake Erie, 105 miles N. from Columbus, 47 E. from Toledo, 210 N.N.E. from Cincinnati, and 60 from Cleveland and Detroit. It is also on the northern division of the Cleveland and Toledo Railroad, and is the terminus of the Sandusky, Mansfield and Newark, and Sandusky, Dayton and Cincinnati Railroads. The bay is about 20 miles long and 5 or 6 wide, forming an excellent harbor, into which vessels of all sizes can enter with safety in storms. The ground on which the city stands, rises gently from the shore, commanding a fine view of the bay with its shipping. The town is based upon an inexhaustible quarry of fine limestone, which is not only used in building elegant and substantial
North-eastern view of Public Sguare, Sandusky.
The view shows, first, beginning at the left, the Episcopal Church, then successively the Dutch Reformed Church, the Court House, Catholic Church, the High School, Congregational Church, Methodist, Baptist, and the Presbyterian Churches.
The French established a small trading post at the mouth of Huron River, and another on the shore of the bay on or near the site of Sandusky City, which were abandoned before the war of the revolution. The small map annexed is copied from part of Evans' map of the Middle British Colonies, published in 1755. The reader will perceive upon the east bank of Sandusky River, near the bay, a French fort there described as
“Fort Junandat, built in
1754.” The words Wandots are, doubtless, meant for Wyandot towns.
Erie, Huron, and a small part of Ottawa counties comprise that portion of the Western Reserve“the fire lands,”
being a tract of about 500,000 acres, granted by the state of Connecticut to the sufferers by fire from the British in their incursions into that state.
* The Western, or Connecticut Reserve, comprises the following counties in northern Ohio, viz: Ashtabula, Lake, Onyahoga, Lorain, Erie, Huron, Medina, Summit, Portage, Trumbull, and the northern part of Mahoning.
It is quite difficult to ascertain who the first settlers were upon the fire lands. As early, if not prior to the organization of the state, several persons had squatted upon the lands, at the mouth of the streams and near the shore of the lake, led a hunter's life and trafficked with the Indians. But they were a race of wanderers and gradually disappeared before the regular progress of the settlements. Those devoted missionaries, the Moravians, made a settlement, which they called New
The first regular settlers upon the fire lands were Col. Jerard Ward, who came in the spring of 1808, and Almon Ruggles and Jabez Wright, in the autumn succeeding. Ere the close of the next year, quite a number of families had settled in the townships of Huron, Florence, Berlin, Oxford, Margaretta, Portland and Vermillion. These early settlers generally erected the ordinary log cabin, but others of a wandering character built bark huts, which were made by driving a post at each of the four corners, and one higher between each of the two end corners, in the middle to support the roof, which were connected together by a ridge pole. Layers of bark were wound around the side of the posts, each upper layer lapping the one beneath to shed rain. The roof was barked over, strips being bent across from one eave over the ridge pole to the other, and secured by poles on them. The occupants of these bark huts were squatters, and lived principally by hunting. They were the semi-oivilized race that usually precedes the more substantial pioneer in the western wilderness.
Fremont
, formerly Lower Sandusky, on the west bank of Sandusky River, is the county seat of Sandusky county, 30 miles easterly from Toledo, by the Cleveland and Toledo Railroad. Population about 4,000.
The defense of Fort Stephenson, at this point, Aug. 2, 1813, just after the siege of Fort Meigs, was a memorable event in the war of 1812.
This post had been established by Gen. Harrison, on Sandusky River, eighteen miles from its mouth, and forty east of Fort Meigs. It was garrisoned by one hundred and fifty men, under Major George Croghan, a young Kentuckian, just past twenty-one years of age. This fort being indefensible against heavy cannon, which it was supposed would be brought against it by Proctor, it was judged best by Harrison and his officers in council, that it should be abandoned. But the enemy appeared before the garrison on the 31st of July, before the order could be executed; they numbered thirty-three hundred strong, including the Indians, and brought with them six pieces of artillery, which, luckily, were of light caliber. To Proctor's summary demand for its surrender, he was informed that he could only gain access over the corpses of its defenders. The enemy soon opening their fire upon them, gave Croghan reason to judge that they intended to storm the north-west angle of the fort. In the darkness of night, he placed his only piece of artillery, a six pounder, at that point, and loaded it to the muzzle with slugs. On the evening of the 2d, three hundred British veterans marched up to carry the works by storm, and when within thirty feet of the masked battery it opened upon them.
† Col. Short, who commanded this party, was ordering his men to leap the ditch, cut down the pickets, and give the Americans
no quarters, when he fell mortally wounded into the ditch, hoisted his white handkerchief on the end of his sword, and begged for that mercy which he had a moment before ordered to be denied to his enemy.
Fort Sandusky.
* References to the Fort.—Line 1—Pickets.
Line 2—Embankment from the ditch to and against the picket.
Line 3—Dry ditch, nine feet wide by six deep.
Line 4—Outward embankment or glacis. A—Block-house first attacked by cannon, b. B—Bastion from which the ditch was raked by Croghan's artillery. C—Guard block-house, in the lower left corner. D—Hospital during the attack. E E E—Military store-houses. F—Commissary's store-house. G—Magazine. H—Fort gate. K K K—Wicker gates. L—Partition gate.
Upper Sandusky
, the county seat of Wyandot county, is a village of about
About three miles north of the town is the battle ground, where Col. Crawford was defeated by the Indians, in 1782. After the massacre of the Moravian Indians on the Tuscarawas, the remainder settled in this vicinity among the hostile Indians. A second expedition was projected on the upper Ohio, to invade the Wyandot country, finish the destruction of the Christian Indians, and then destroy the Wyandot towns in the vicinity. Four hundred and eighty men assembled at the old Mingo towns, near the site of Steubenville, and elected Col. Wm. Crawford, a resident of Brownsville, as their commander. This officer was a native of Virginia, and an intimate friend of Washington. At this time he was about 60 years of age.
It was determined to carry on a war of extermination—
“no quarter
was to be given to any
man, woman
or
child.
” On the 7th of June, while marching through the Sandusky plains, they were attacked by the Indians, concealed in the high grass. The action continued until night closed in upon them. It was then determined to retreat. Unfortunately, instead of doing so all in a body, one part broke up into small parties, and these being pursued by detachments of Indians, mostly fell into the hands of the enemy. Some were killed and scalped at the time, while others were reserved for torture. Among the latter was Col. Crawford, who perished at the stake.
* The account of the burning of Crawford is thus given by Dr. Knight, his companion, who subsequently escaped. When we went to the fire, the colonel was stripped naked, ordered to sit down by the fire, and then they beat him with sticks and their fists. Presently after, I was treated in the same manner. They then tied a rope to the foot of a post about fifteen feet high, bound the colonel's hands behind his back and fastened the rope to the ligature between his wrists. The rope was long enough for him to sit down or walk round the post once or twice, and return the same way. The colonel then called to Girty, and asked him if they intended to burn him? Girty answered, yes. The colonel said he would take it all patiently. Upon this, Captain Pipe, a Delaware chief, made a speech to the Indians, viz: about thirty or forty men, and sixty or seventy squaws and boys. When the speech was finished, they all yelled a hideous and hearty assent to what had been said. The Indian men took up their guns and shot powder into the colonel's body, from his feet as far up as his neck. I think that not less than seventy loads were discharged upon his naked body. They then crowded about him, and to the best of my observation, cut off his ears; when the throng had dispersed a little, I saw the blood running from both sides of his head in consequence thereof.
The fire was about six or seven yards from the post to which the colonel was tied; it was made of small hickory poles, burnt quite through in the middle, each end of the poles remaining about six feet in length. Three or four Indians, by turns, would take up, individually, one of these burning pieces of wood, and apply it to his naked body, already burnt black with powder. These tormentors presented themselves on every side of him with the burning fagots and poles. Some of the squaws took broad boards, upon which they would carry a quantity of burning coals and hot embers, and throw on him, so that in a short time, he had nothing but coals of fire and hot ashes to walk upon. In the midst of these extreme tortures, he called to Simon Girty, and begged of him to shoot him; but Girty making no answer, he called to him again. Girty then, by way of derision, told the colonel that he had no gun, at the same time turning about to an Indian who was behind him, laughed heartily, and by all his gestures, seemed delighted with the horrid scene. Girty then came up to me and bade me prepare for death. He said, however, I was not to die at that place, but to be burnt at the Shawnese towns. He swore by G—d I need not expect to escape death, but should suffer it in all its extremities.
Col. Crawford, at this period of his sufferings, besought the Almighty to have mercy on his soul, spoke very low, and bore his torments with the most manly fortitude. He continued in all the extremities of pain for an hour and three quarters or two hours longer, as near as I can judge, when at last, being almost exhausted, he lay down on his belly; they then scalped him, and repeatedly threw the scalp in my face, telling me, “that was my great captain.” An old squaw (whose appearance every way answered the ideas people entertain of the devil) got a board, took a parcel of coals and ashes and laid them on his back and head, after he had been scalped; he then raised himself upon his feet and began to walk round the post; they next put a burning stick to him, as usual, but he seemed more insensible of pain than before.
The Indian fellow who had me in charge, now took me away to Captain Pipe's house, about three quarters of a mile from the place of the colonel's execution. I was bound all night, and thus prevented from seeing the last of the horrid spectacle. Next morning, being June 12th, the Indian untied me; painted me black, and we set off for the Shawnee town, which he told me was somewhat less than forty miles distant from that place. We soon came to the spot where the colonel had been burnt, as it was partly in our way; I saw his bones lying among the remains of the fire, almost burnt to ashes; I suppose, after he was dead, they laid his body on the fire. The Indian told me that was my big captain, and gave the scalp halloo.
Near the town of Upper Sandusky stands the old Wyandot Mission Church, built about the year 1824, from government funds, by Rev. James B. Finley. The Methodists here sustained the mission among, the Indians for many years.
Wyandot Mission Church.
Dayton,
a city, and capital of Montgomery county, is situated on the E. bank of the Great Miami, at the mouth of Mad River, 60 miles from Cincinnati, 67 from Columbus, and 110 from Indianapolis. This is the
North-eastern view of the Court House, Dayton.
Erected at an expense of about $100,000, and 172 feet in length by 62 in breadth. The style of architecture is that of the Parhtenon, with some slight variations.
The first families who made a permanent residence in the place, arrived on the 1st day of April, 1796. The first 19 settlers of Dayton, were Wm. Gahagan, Samuel Thompson, Benj. Van Cleve, Wm. Van Cleve, Solomon Goss, Thomas Davis, John Davis, James M'Clure, John M'Clure, Daniel Ferrell, William Hamer, Solomon Hamer, Thomas Hamer, Abraham Glassmire, John Dorough, Wm. Chenoweth, Jas. Morris, Wm. Newcom and George Newcom.
In 1803, on the organization of the state government, Montgomery county was established. Dayton was made the seat of justice, at which time only five families resided in the town, the other settlers having gone on to farms in the vicinity, or removed to other parts of the country. The increase of the town was gradual, until the war of 1812, which made a thoroughfare for the troops and stores on their way to the frontier.
Springfield
, a beautiful city and capital of Clarke county, is situated on the National Road, on Mad River, 43 miles W. from Columbus, and 84 N. from Cincinnati. It has great water power, well improved by a variety of mills and manufacturing establishments. It is surrounded by a rich and populous country. Several macadamized roads terminate here, and railroads
Springfield was laid out in 1803, by James Demint. The old Indian town, Piqua, the ancient Piqua of the Shawnees, and the birth-place of
Tecumseh,
the celebrated Indian warrior, was situated on the N. side of Mad River, about five miles W. from Springfield.
Xenia
, the county seat of Green, is a well built town on the Little Miami Railroad, 64 miles north of Cincinnati, in a rich country. The town was laid off in 1803, by Joseph C. Vance. The name, Xenia, is said to be an old French word, signifying a New Year's gift. Wilberforce University is three and a half miles north-east of Xenia, an institution under the care of the Methodist Episcopal Church North, for the special purpose of educating, colored youth of both sexes. Population about 5,000.
About three miles north, on the Little Miami, is the site of the Shawnee town, Old Chillicothe. It was a place of note in the early history of the country, and a point to which Daniel Boone, with 27 other Kentuckians, were brought prisoners in 1778.
Antioch College
is at Yellow Springs, 9 miles north of Xenia. It is an institution of considerable celebrity, the one over which the late Horace Mann presided, with so much reputation to himself and benefit to his pupils.
First Court House in Greene county.
The engraving is a correct representation of the first court house in Greene. It was erected five and a half miles north of the site of Xenia, near the Dayton road. It was built by Gen. Benj. Whiteman, as a residence for Peter Borders.
The first court for the trial of causes was held in it, in August, 1803, Francis Dunlavy, presiding judge. A grand jury of inquest were sworn “for the body of Greene county.” After receiving the charge, “they retired out of court”—a circumstance not to be wondered at, as there was but one room in the house. Their place of retirement, or jury room, was a little squat shaped pole hut, shown on the right of the view. But it appears there was nothing for them to do.
“But they were not permitted to remain idle long: the spectators in attendance promptly took the matter into consideration. They, doubtless, thought it a great
63“by combat
”—a process by which they avoided the much complained of “laws' delay,” and incurred no other damages than black eyes and bloody noses, which were regarded as mere trifles, of course. Among the incidents of the day, characteristic of the times, was this: A Mr.—, of Warren county, was in attendance. Owen Davis, the owner of a mill near by, and a brave Indian fighter, as well as a kind-hearted, obliging man, charged this Warren county man with
speculatiny in pork
, alias stealing his neighbor's hogs. The insult was resented—a combat took place forthwith, in which Davis proved victorious. He then went into court, and planting himself in front of the judges, he observed, addressing himself particularly to one of them,
‘Well, Ben, I've whipped that— hog thief—what's the damage
—what's to pay? and, thereupon, suiting the action to the word, he drew out his buckskin purse, containing 8 or 10 dollars, and slammed it down on the table—then shaking his fist at the judge whom he addressed, he continued, ‘Yes, Ben, and if you'd
steal a hog,— you, I'd whip you too.
’ He had, doubtless, come to the conclusion, that, as there was a court, the luxury of fighting could not be indulged in gratis, and he was for paying up as he went. Seventeen witnesses were sworn and sent before the grand jury, and nine bills of indictment were found the same day—all for affrays and assaults and batteries committed
after
the court was organized. To these indictments the parties all pleaded guilty, and were fined—Davis among the rest, who was fined eight dollars for his share in the transactions of the day.”
Greenville
, the capital of Darke county, on the Greenville and Miami Railroad, is about 121 miles W. from Columbus. It contains some 1,500 inhabitants. In 1793, Gen. Wayne built Fort Greenville on the site of the present town, and here the treaty of Greenville was concluded, between Gen. Wayne and the Indians. Gen. St. Clair, at the head of 1,400 men, was defeated by the Indians in the north-west corner of Darke county, upward of 20 miles from Greenville, Nov. 4, 1791. The great object of St. Clair's campaign was to establish a line of military posts between Fort Washington (Cincinnati), and the junction of St. Mary and St. Joseph Rivers, now Fort Wayne. The description of the battle is from Monette's history:
On the 3d of November, the army encamped in a wooded plain, among the sources of a Wabash tributary, upon the banks of several small creeks, about fifty miles south of the Miami towns. The winter had already commenced, and the ground was covered with snow three inches deep.
Next morning, Nov. 4th, just before sunrise, and immediately after the troops had been dismissed from parade, the Indians made a furious attack upon the militia, whose camp was about a quarter of a mile in advance of the main camp of the regular troops. The militia immediately gave way, and fled with great precipitation and disorder, with the Indians in close pursuit; and, rushing through the camp, they threw the battalions of Majors Butler and Clark into confusion. The utmost exertions of those officers failed to restore complete order. The Indians, pressing close upon the militia, immediately engaged Butler's command with great intrepidity and fury. The attack soon became general both in the front and second lines, but the weight of the enemy's fire was directed against the center of each line, where the artillery was stationed. Such was the intensity of the enemy's fire, that the men were repeatedly driven from their guns with great loss. Confusion was spreading among the troops, from the great numbers who were constantly falling, while no impression was made by their fire upon the enemy. “At length resort was had to the bayonet.—Col. Darke was ordered to charge with part of the second line, and endeavor to turn the left flank of the enemy. This order was executed with great spirit. The Indians instantly gave way, and were. driven back three or four hundred yards; but, for want of a sufficient number of riflemen to pursue this advantage, they soon rallied, and the troops were obliged in turn to
Plan Of St. Clair's Battle Field.
* References.—A—High ground, on which the militia were encamped at the commencement of the action. B C—Encampment of the main army. D—Retreat of the militia at the beginning of the battle. E—St. Clair's trade, on which the defeated army retreated. F—Place where Gen. Butler and other officers were buried. G—Trail to Girty's Town, on the River St. Marys, at what is now the village of St. Marys. H—Site of Fort Recovery, built by Wayne; the line of Darke and Mercer runs within a few rods of the site of the fort. I—Place where a brass cannon was found buried, in 1830; it is on the bottom where the Indians were three times driven to the high land with the bayonet.
In this most disastrous battle, thirty-eight commissioned officers were killed on the field. Six hundred non-commissioned officers and privates were either killed or missing. Among the wounded were twenty-one commissioned officers, and two hundred and forty-two non-commissioned officers and privates. Many of the wounded died subsequently of their wounds. The Indian loss did not exceed sixty warriors killed.
The grand error in this campaign was the impolicy of urging forward on a dangerous service, far into the Indian country, an army of raw troops, who were unwilling to enter upon the campaign, as was fully evinced by frequent desertions as they approached the hostile towns. The army was fatally reduced by the detachment sent to overtake the deserters from the Kentucky militia; and Gen. St. Clair
* St. Clair was an unfortunate officer in the Revolution, but still retained the confidence and friendship of Washington. In Rush's “Washington in Domestic Life,” is an account of the interview between Mr. Tobias Lear, his private secretary, and Washington, immediately after the reception by the latter of the news of St. Clair's defeat:
“The general now walked backward and forward slowly for some minutes without speaking. Then he sat down on a sofa by the fire, telling Mr. Lear to sit down. To this moment there had been no change in his manner since his interruption at table. Mr. Lear now perceived emotion. This rising in him, he broke out suddenly, ‘It's all Over—St. Clair's defeated—routed; the officers nearly all killed, the men by wholesale; the rout complete— too shocking to think of—and a surprise in the bargain!’
He uttered all this with great vehemence. Then he paused, got up from the sofa and walked about the room several times, agitated but saying nothing. Near the door he stopped short, and stood still a few seconds, when his wrath became terrible.
‘Yes,’ he burst forth,
‘here on this very spot, I took leave of him; I wished him success and honor; you have your instructions, I said, from the secretary of war, I had a strict eye to them, and will add but one word—
beware of a surprise. I repeat it, BEWARE OF A SURPRISE-you know how the Indians fight us. He went off with that as my last solemn warning thrown into his ears. And yet I to suffer that army to be cut to pieces, back'd, butchered, tomahaw'd by a surprise—the very thing I guarded him against!! Oh, God, oh, God, he's worse than a murderer! how can he answer it to his country:—the blood of the slain is upon him—the curse of widows and orphans—the curse of Heaven?’
This torrent came out in tones appalling. His very frame shook. It was awful, said Mr. Lear. More than once he threw his hands up as he hurled imprecations upon St. Clair. Mr. Lear remained speechless, awed into breathless silence.
Washington sat down on the sofa once more. He seemed conscious of his passion, and uncomfortable. He was silent. His warmth beginning to subside, he at length said in an altered voice: ‘This must not go beyond this room.’ Another pause followed—a longer one—when he said, in a tone quite low, ‘General St. Clair shall have justice; I looked hastily through the dispatches, saw the whole disaster, but not all the particulars; I will receive him without displeasure; I will hear him without prejudice; he shall have full justice.’
He was now, said Mr. Lear, perfectly calm. Half an hour had gone by. The storm was over; and no sign of it was afterward seen in his conduct, or heard in his conversation. The result is known. The whole case was investigated by congress. St. Clair was exculpated and regained the confidence Washington had in him when appointing him to that command. He had put himself into the thickest of the fight and escaped unhurt, though so ill as to be carried on a litter, and unable to mount his horse without help.”
The Indians engaged in this terrible battle comprised about nine hundred warriors. Among them were about four hundred Shawnese, commanded by Blue Jacket, and chiefly from the waters of the Wabash. The remainder were commanded by Little Turtle, Buckongahelas, consisting of Delawares, Wyandots, Potawatamies, and Mingoes. The Delawares alone numbered nearly four hundred warriors, who fought with great fury. On the ground, during the battle, were seen several British officers in full uniform from Detroit, who had come to witness the strife which they had instigated. Simon Girty commanded a party of Wyandots.
Among the camp-followers in this campaign were nearly two hundred and fifty women, of whom fifty-six were killed during the carnage; the remainder were chiefly captured the Indians.
Wayne's troops subsequently built a fort, called
Fort Recovery
, on the site of the battle ground. In the summer of 1794, a second battle was fought under the walls of the fort, between 140 Americans, under Major McMahon, and a party of Indians, led on by British officers. McMahon and 22 others were killed, but the survivors gained the fort, which the enemy also attacked but were driven off with severe loss.
Within Ohio, beside those already noticed are a large number of city like towns, most of which are on the lines of railroads, are capitals of their respective counties, have numerous churches, literary institutions, manufactories, and varied branches of industry—some are lighted with gas, have
Mount Vernon City
, Knox county. Population 4,147. Five miles east of it, is Grambier, the seat of Kenyon College, founded in 1827, and named after Lord Kenyon, one of its principal benefactors.
Mansfield City
, Richland county, a manufacturing town, a great railroad center, with 11 churches, 70 stores, six manufactories, and a population of 4,540.
Wooster
, Wayne county, has 60 stores, 10 churches, and in 1858, 4,837 inhabitants.
Canton
, Stark county, has 4,042 people.
Massillon
, in the same county, has a population of 3,680.
Youngstown
, in Mahoning county has 2,758 inhabitants. All of the above are in the northern section of the state, in the richest WHEAT counties of Ohio.
Akron
, Summit county, has 50 stores of various kinds, and 3,520 inhabitants. It is on the summit level of the Ohio canal, and has abundance of water power from the canal and Cuyahoga River, which is employed in a variety of manufactures. The manufacturing village of Cuyahoga Falls, is six miles north east of Akron: the river falls there, in the space of two and a half miles, more than 200 feet. Western Reserve College is at Hudson, eight and a half miles northerly from the last.
Norwalk
, Huron county, has 2,867 inhabitants.
Elyria
, Lorain county, has 1,615 inhabitants, Oberlin in the same county, 2,012 inhabitants: the collegiate institute at Oberlin is a flourishing institution, numbering several hundred pupils of both sexes.Warren
, Trumbull county, has 2,402 inhabitants.
Ravenna
, Portage county, has 36 stores, and a population of 1,797.
Painesville
, Lake county, has 2,615 inhabitants. Ashtabula, in
Ashtabula
county, 1,427 inhabitants. The above are on the
Western Reserve.
* Many of the pupils at Oberlin, male and female, are of African origin, and mingle on terms of social equality with the others. This singularity is in accordance with the annexed published synopsis of the institution:
1. To educate youths of both sexes, so as to secure the development of a strong mind in a sound body, connected with a permanent, vigorous, progressive piety—all to be aided by a judicious system of manual labor. 2. To beget and to confirm in the process of education the habit of self-denial, patient endurance, a chastened moral courage, and a devout consecration of the whole being to God, in seeking the best good of man. 3. To establish universal liberty by the abolition of every form of sin. 4. To avoid the debasing association of the heathen classics, and make the bible a textbook in all the departments of education. 5. To raise up a church and ministers who shall be known and read of all men in deep sympathy with Christ, in holy living, and in efficient action against all which God forbids. 6. To furnish a seminary, affording thorough instruction in all the branches of an education for both sexes, and in which colored persons, of both sexes, shall be freely admitted, and on the terms of equality and brotherhood.
Tiffin
, Seneca county, is the seat of Heidelberg College, and a theological seminary of the German Reformed Church. It has 12 churches and 4,010 inhabitants.
Bucyrus
, Crawford county, has 40 stores and 2,210 inhabitants.
Delaware
, Delaware county, has 14 churches and 3,895 inhabitants. It is the seat of the Ohio Wesleyan University and two female colleges.
Bellefontaine
, Logan county, has 2,600 inhabitants.
Sidney
, Shelby county, has 2,055 inhabitants.
Urbana
, Champaign county, the seat of Urbana University and a female seminary, has a population of 3,429.
Piqua
, Miami county, has 40 stores, numerous manufactories, mechanic shops, and 4,620 inhabitants.
Troy
, in the same county, has 2,640 inhabitants.
Lima
, in Allen
Lebanon
, Warren county, has 2,498 inhabitants.
Eaton
, Preble county, and
Germantown
, Montgomery county, have each about 1,500 inhabitants, as also have
Wilmington, Hillsboro
' and
Greenfield. Ripley
, on the Ohio River in Brown county, has 2,715 inhabitants. The above are all in the south-western quarter of Ohio.
Lancaster
, Fairfield county, has 4,320 inhabitants.
Logan
, Hocking county,
M'Connellsville
, in Morgan,
Wellsville
, in Columbiana,
New Lisbon
, in Columbiana, and
Cambridge
, in Guernsey county, have each about 1500 inhabitants.
Pomeroy
, on the Ohio River, in Meigs county, is in the midst of the great coal producing region of the state, to which it owes its importance; its population is 6,480.
Ironton
, on the Ohio River, in Lawrence county has 3,700 inhabitants. This town was laid out in 1849, by the Ohio Iron and Coal Company, and derives its importance from the iron business, the principal furnaces of the Ohio iron district being in its vicinity. All of the above, excepting Wellsville and New Lisbon, are in the south-eastern quarter of Ohio.
Beside the above, Ohio contains many villages ranging from 1,000 to 2,000 inhabitants.
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, MISCELLANIES, ETC.
Tecumseh
, the renowned warrior and chieftain of the Shawnees, was born about the year 1768, at the Indian town of Piqua, situated on the north side of Mad River, some five miles west of the site of Springfield, Clarke county. He early showed a passion for war, and at 17 years evinced signal prowess in the capture of some boats on the Ohio; but when his party burned a prisoner, he was struck with horror, and by his eloquence persuaded them never to be guilty of a like act again. In 1795, he became a chief, and soon rose to distinction among his people.
Site of Piqua.
An Indian village and the birth-place of Tecumseh.
In 1805, Tecumseh and his brother Laulewasikaw, the prophet, established themselves at Greenville and gained a great influence over the Indians through the pretended sorcery of the latter. Shortly after the great project of Tecumseh was formed of a confederacy of all the western tribes against the whites. In this he was backed, it is supposed, by the insiduous influence of British agents, who presented the Indians with ammunition, in anticipation, perhaps, of hostilities between the two countries, in which event the union of all the tribes against the Americans was desirable.
The battle of Tippecanoe, fought Nov. 7, 1811, with the brother of Tecumseh, in which the prophet was defeated, for a time annihilated the hopes of the brothers. Tecumseh was not in this battle. In the war which soon after ensued with England, Tecumseh was the ally of King George, and held the rank of brigadier-general having, under his command, about 2,000 Indians. He was present at several engagements, and was eventually killed in the battle of Moravian towns, in Canada, near Detroit, Oct. 5, 1813.
“Thus fell the Indian warrior Tecumseh, in the 44th year of his age. He was five feet ten inches high, and with more than usual stoutness, possessed all the agility and perseverance
W. H. Harrison
“William Henry Harrison
was born in Charles county, Virginia, Feb. 9, 1773; was educated at Hampden Sidney College, and afterward studied medicine. He received, from Washington, a military commission in 1791, and fought under Wayne in 1792. After the battle of Maumee Rapids, he was made captain, and placed in command of Fort Washington. In 1797, he was appointed secretary of the North-west Territory; and in 1765 and 1800, he was a delegate to congress. Being appointed governor of Indiana he was also superintendent of Indian affairs, and negotiated thirteen treaties. He gained a great victory in the battle of Tippecanoe, Nov. 7, 1811. In the war with Great Britain, he was commander of the North-west army, and was distinguished in the defense of Fort Meigs, and the victory of the Thames. From 1816 to 1819, he was a representative in congress, from Ohio; and from 1825 to 1828, United States Senator. In 1828, he was minister to the Republic of Colombia; and on his return he resided upon his farm, at North Bend, Ohio. In 1840, he was elected president of the United States, by 234 votes out of 294, and inaugurated March 4, 1841. He died in the presidential mansion, April 4, 1841.”
Swiss Emigrant's Cottage.
In traveling through the west, one often meets with scenes that remind him of another land. The foreigner who makes his home upon American soil, does not at once assimilate in language, modes of life, and current of thought with those congenial to his adopted country. The German emigrant is peculiar in this respect, and so much attached is he to his fatherland, that years often elapse ere there is any perceptible change. The annexed engraving, from Howe's Ohio, illustrates these remarks: “It shows the mud cottage of a German Swiss emigrant, now standing in the neighborhood of others of like character, in the north-western part of Columbiana county, Ohio. The frame work is of wood, with the interstices filled with light colored clay, and the whole surmounted by a ponderous shingled roof, of a picturesque form. Beside the tenement, hop vines are clustering around their slender supporters, while hard by stands the abandoned log dwelling of the emigrant—deserted for one more congenial with his early predilections.”
* Lossing gives this pleasant anecdote of the origin of his name
Return Jonathan Meigs
Return. “A bright-eyed Connecticut girl was disposed to coquette with her lover, Jonathan Meigs; and on one occasion, when he had pressed his suit with great earnestness, and asked for a positive answer, she feigned coolness, and would give him no satisfaction. The lover resolved to be trifled with no longer, and bade her farewell, forever. She perceived her error, but he was allowed to go far down the lane before her pride would yield to the more tender emotions of her heart. Then she ran to the gate and cried,
“Return, Jonathan! Return, Jonathan!” He did return, they were joined in wedlock, and in commemoration of these happy words of the sorrowing girl, they named their first child, Return Jonathan—afterward a hero in our war for independence, a noble western pioneer, and a devoted friend of the Cherokees.”
Rufus Putnam
, who has been styled “the FATHER OF OHIO,” was born at Sutton, Massachusetts, in 1738. He was distinguished in the war of the revolution, holding the office of brigadier-general. From 1783 to 1787, he was busy organizing a company for emigrating to, and settling, the Ohio country. On the 7th of April, 1788, be landed with the first pioneer party at the mouth of the Muskingum, and there founded Marietta, the first settlement in Ohio. He was appointed surveyor-general of the United States by Washington, in 1796, was a member of the convention which formed the first Constitution of Ohio, and died in 1824.
Gen. Duncan McArthur
, was born of Scotch parentage, in Dutchess county, N. Y., in 1782, and at the age of 18 entered the army, and was in several Indian campaigns. By force of talent he rose, in 1808, to the post of major general of the state militia. At Hull's surrender he was second in command, but on his release as a prisoner of war, the democratic party, by an overwhelming majority, elected him to congress. On the resignation of Gen. Harrison, in 1814, he was in supreme command of the north-west army, and projected an expedition into Canada, where, at or near Malcolm's Mill, he defeated a body of Canadians. He was a representative in congress again from 1823 to 1825; in 1830, was chosen governor of the state, and died a few years later. He was a strong-minded, energetic man, and possessed a will of iron.
Gen. Nathaniel Massie
was born in Virginia, in 1763, and was bred a surveyor. In 1791, he made the first settlement within the Virginia Military District, the fourth in Ohio, and the only one between the Scioto and Little Miami, until after the treaty of Greenville in 1795. This was at Manchester, on the Ohio, opposite Maysville, Ky. His business, for years, was the surveying of lands in the military district, His payments were liberal, as he received in many cases one half of the land for making the locations; yet the risk was immense, for, during the Indian hostilities, every creek that was explored and every line that was run, was done by stealth and at the risk of life from the lurking Indians, from whom he had several narrow escapes.
After the defeat of the Indians by Wayne, the surveyors were not interrupted by the Indians; but on one of their excursions, still remembered as
“the starving tour,”
the whole party, consisting
In 1796, Massie laid the foundation of the settlement of the Scioto valley, by laying out on his own land the now large and beautiful town of Chillicothe. The progress of the settlements brought large quantities of his land into market.
Gen. Massie was a member of the convention which formed the first state constitution. In 1807, he was a competitor with Return Jonathan Meigs for governor, they being the two most popular men in Ohio. Meigs was elected by a slight majority. Massie contested the election, Meigs having lost his residence by absence. The legislature decided in Massie's favor, whereupon he magnanimously resigned. In 1813, this noble pioneer was gathered to his fathers.
Grave Of Simon Kenton.
Simon Kenton
, a native of Culpepper county, Virginia, and one of the bravest and noblest of western pioneers, and the friend of Daniel Boone, resided in the latter part of his life, on the head waters of Mad River, about five miles north of Bellefontaine, in Logan county. His dwelling was the small log house shown on the extreme right of the annexed view. There he died, in 1836, at the advanced age of 81 years. When 16 years of age, he had an affray with a young man who had married his lady love. Supposing, erroneously, that he had killed his rival, he fled to the wilderness of Kentucky. This was in the year 1771. From that time, during the whole of the revolutionary war, down to the treaty of Greenville, in 1795, he was probably in more expeditions against the Indians, encountered greater peril, performed more heroic feats, and had more narrow escapes from death, than any man of his time.
In 1778, he was captured by the Indians, compelled to run the gauntlet, and then condemned to be burnt at the stake. He was saved by the interposition of Simon Girty, a renegade white, who had known Kenton in Dunmore's campaign. Shortly after he was again sentenced to death, and a second time was saved by a Canadian Frenchman, who prevailed upon the Indians to send him to the British at Detroit. From thence he finally escaped, and again engaged in Indian warfare.
In 1782, hearing he had not killed his rival in love, he returned to Virginia, in order to remove his father's family to his new home in Kentucky. Notwithstanding the great services he had rendered his country, on account of some defect in his land titles, he lost his property, and was imprisoned twelve months for debt, on the very spot where he had built his cabin in 1775. In 1802, he settled in Urbana, Ohio, where he remained some years, and was elected brigadier general of militia. He was in the war of 1812, under Harrison, at the battle of Moravian town, where he displayed his usual intrepidity. About the year 1820, he removed to the head of Mad River. At the time of his death the frosts of more than 80 winters had fallen on his head without entirely whitening his locks. His biographer thus describes his personal appearance and character:
“General Kenton was of fair complexion, six feet one inch in hight. He stood and walked very erect; and, in the prime of life, weighed about one hundred and ninety pounds. He never was inclined to be corpulent, although of sufficient fullness to form a graceful person. He had a soft, tremulous voice, very pleasing to
Jacob Burnet
was born in Newark, N. J., in 1770, educated at Princeton, and in 1796 admitted to the bar. He then emigrated to Cincinnati, and commenced the practice of his profession. Until the formation of the constitution of Ohio, in 1802, he attended court regularly at Cincinnati, Marietta and Detroit, the last of which was then the seat of justice for Wayne county. The jaunts between these remote places were attended with exposure, fatigue, and hazard, and were usually performed on horseback, in parties of two or more, through a wilderness country. At that period the whole white population between Pennsylvania and the Mississippi, the Ohio and the lakes, was only about 5,000 souls. Mr. Burnet at once rose to the front rank in his profession. He was appointed, in 1799, a member of the first territorial legislature of the North-West Territory; and the first code of laws were almost wholly framed by him. In 1821, he became one of the judges of the supreme court of Ohio; and in 1828, was elected to the national senate, as successor of Gen. Harrison. Nearly his entire life was passed in positions of honor and responsibility. On the recommendation of Lafayette, he was elected a member of the French Academy of Sciences. His Notes upon the North-West Territory are among the most valuable contributions to the history of the west extant. Judge Burnet died in 1853, aged 83 years.
BRADY'S LEAP.
Brady's Pond.
It was across the Cuyahoga River, in northern Ohio, near the site of Franklin Mills, and a few miles east of the village of Cuyahoga Falls, that the noted Capt. Sam'l Brady made his famous leap for life, about the year 1780, when pursued by a party of Indians. Brady was the Daniel Boone of the north-east part of the valley of the Ohio, which is full of traditions of his hardy adventures and hair breadth escapes. Brady's Pond is the spot where Brady concealed himself after his leap, the circumstances of which we quote below. It is a small, beautiful sheet of water, two and a half miles from the village, a little north of the Ravenna road:
“Having in peaceable times often hunted over this ground with the Indians, and knowing every turn of the Cuyahoga as familiarly as the villager knows the streets of his own hamlet, Brady directed his course to the river, at a spot where the whole stream is compressed, by the rocky cliffs, into a narrow channel of only 22 feet across the top of the chasm, although it is considerably wider beneath, near the water, and in highth more than twice that number of feet above the current. Through this pass the water rushes like a race horse, chafing and roaring at the confinement of its current by the rocky channel, while, a short distance above, the steam is at least fifty yards wide. As he approached the chasm, Brady, knowing that life or death was in the effort, concentrated his mighty powers, and leaped the stream at a single bound. It so happened, that on the opposite cliff, the leap was favored by a low place, into which he dropped, and grasping the bushes, he thus helped himself to ascend to the top of the cliff. The Indians, for a few moments, were lost in wonder and admiration, and before they had recovered their recollection, he was half way up the side of the opposite hill, but still within reach of their rifles. They could easily have shot him at any moment before, but being bent on taking him alive, for torture, and to glut their long delayed revenge, they forbore to use the rifle; but now, seeing him likely to escape, they all fired upon him; one bullet severely wounded‘Brady's Leap.
’”
The Perry Statue, At Cleveland.
In the center of the beautiful public square in Cleveland stands the statue of Oliver Hazard Perry, the “Hero of Lake Erie.” It was inaugurated with great ceremony on the 10th of September, 1860, the anniversary of his signal victory. Among those present were the governor and legislature of Rhode Island, Perry's native state, soldiers of the last war, survivors of the battle of Lake Erie, military from Rhode Island, New York, Pennsylvania, and about 70,000 visitors from the surrounding country. Among the ceremonies of the occasion was a mock battle on the lake in imitation of that which terminated in the victory of Perry. Hon. Geo. Bancroft was the orator of the day.
The statue is of Carrara marble, standing upon a high pedestal of Rhode Island granite. The figure can not be better described than in the words of Mr. Walcutt, the artist, after he had unvailed the statue: “It is the Commander—bold and confident—giving directions to his men, while watching through the smoke of battle the effect of his broadsides on the enemy. Figuratively, it is the impersonation of the triumphant hero, gazing with pride and enthusiasm over the beautiful land he saved by his valor, and pointing to the lake as if reminding us of the scene of his victory.” The drapery represents the official dress of a commodore in the United States navy. On the front of the pedestal is an alto-relievo, representing the incident of Perry's passage from the Lawrence to the Niagara, with an inscription recording the date of the engagement. On either side of the pedestal is a figure, representing a sailor-boy and midshipman.
Arthur St. Clair
, the first governor of the North-west Territory, was a native of Scotland. He was a lieutenant under Wolfe, and a major general in the Revolution; subsequently was a delegate to congress from Pennsylvania, and, in 1787, was chosen its president. While governor of the North-west Territory, from 1788 to 1802, he was much esteemed by the people, being easy and frank in his address, of great integrity and uprightness of purpose, and of extensive information. He had the respect and friendship of Washington. The great misfortune of his life was his sore defeat by the Indians, Nov. 4, 1791. He died in abject poverty, in 1818, in a cabin among the mountains of Pennsylvania.
Col. Jared Mansfield
was born in New Haven, Conn., in 1759. He was educated at Yale College, and was subsequently professor of natural philosophy at West Point. He was appointed, by President Jefferson, surveyor general of the United States, upon which he introduced and perfected the present admirable system of dividing the public land, by north and south and east and west lines, into ranges, townships and sections. This simple plan has been of an untold benefit to the rapid and easy settlement of the west. He died in 1830. Ed. D. Mansfield, Esq., the commissioner of statistics for the state of Ohio, is his son.
Charles Hammond
was born in Maryland in 1779, and died in Cincinnati in 1840, where most of his life was passed. He was one of the most able of lawyers and as a journalist acquired a greater reputation than any man who ever resided in the west. For many years he edited the Cincinnati Gazette.
Nathan Guilford
, lawyer and journalist of Cincinnati, was born in Spencer, Mass., in 1786, and died in 1854. His memory is especially revered for his long and eminent services, in laying the foundation of the common schools of Ohio— “a state which has one third of a million of men capable of bearing arms, but keeps no standing army but her school teachers, of whom she pays more than 20,000, which provides a library for every school district, and registers as students more than 600,000 children. These growing in beauty and strength in this land of the wheat, the corn and the vine, where the purity of domestic morals is maintained by the virtue and dignity of woman, constitutes its present glory and its future hope.”
Arms Of Indiana.
Indiana
was originally included in the limits of “New France,” and afterward in the “North-west Territory.” Its territory was traversed by the French traders and Catholic missionaries at an early period. According to some historians, Vincennes was occupied as a French military post in 1716, and as a missionary station as early as 1700. The first original settlers were, probably, mostly, or entirely, French soldiers from Canada, belonging to the army of Louis XIV. Their descendants remained an almost isolated community, increasing very slowly for nearly one hundred years, and in the mean time they imbibed a taste for savage life, from habits of intercourse with their Indian neighbors exclusively, with whom they often intermarried. In consequence of this fraternization with the Indians, they became somewhat degenerated as a civilized community.
By the treaty of peace between France and Great Britain in 1763, all the French possessions in this region were transferred to Great Britain, but the settlers still retained their original rights. During the revolutionary war, the French settlers displayed their hereditary animosity against the English. In 1778, a Spanish resident gave such information respecting the strength and position of the British force at Vincennes, that by his directions, Gen. Clark, of Virginia, easily obtained possession. By the treaty of 1783, the territory comprised in the limits of Indiana came into the possession of the United States.
In the Indian war which succeeded the first settlement of what is now the state of Ohio, several military expeditions were sent into the present limits of Indiana. The first, in order of time, was that of Gen. Harmar, who marched, in the autumn of 1790, with a large body of troops from Fort Washington, at Cincinnati, against the Indian towns on the Maumee, on or near the site of Fort Wayne. The towns were destroyed, but detached parties of the army were defeated in two separate engagements.
In May, of the next year, 750 Kentuckians, under Gen. Charles Scott, rendezvoused at the mouth of the Kentucky River, and, crossing the Ohio on the 23d, marched northward with great rapidity. In about three weeks the expedition returned to Kentucky, without the loss of a man, after having surprised and destroyed several towns on the Wabash and Eel Rivers, killed 32 of the enemy in skirmishes, and taken 58 prisoners.
In the succeeding August, Col. James Wilkinson left Fort Washington with 550 mounted Kentucky volunteers, to complete the work which had been so successfully begun by Gen. Scott, against the Indians on the Wabash and its tributaries. The expedition was successful. Several towns were destroyed, the corn was cut up and 34 prisoners taken.
By the treaty of Greenville, in 1795, the United States obtained valuable tracts of land, for which they paid the Indians money and goods. Other tracts were obtained, afterward, in the same manner. But, notwithstanding this, a part of the Indians still remained hostile, and being excited by the eloquence of Tecumseh, the celebrated Shawnee warrior, several of the Indian tribes united in resistance to the progress of the whites at the west.
Although by the ordinance of 1787, slavery was forever prohibited in the territory north-west of the Ohio, strong and repeated efforts were made to establish the institution temporarily within the Indiana Territory. The first of these was made in 1802-3, through the instrumentality of a convention presided over by the territorial governor, William Henry Harrison, which petitioned congress to temporarily suspend the operation of the anti-slavery clause of the ordinance. These attempts were repeated through a succession of years, until the winter of 1806-7, when a final effort was made by the territorial legislature to this end. All were without avail, although some of the committees of congress, to whom the subject was referred, reported in favor of the measure.
* The arguments by which this policy was advocated, are thus set forth in the following extract of a report of a congressional committee, made in favor of the prayer of the petitioners on the 14th of February, 1806. “That, having attentively considered the facts stated in the said petitions and memorials, they are of opinion that a qualified suspension, for a limited time, of the sixth article of compact between the original states, and the people and states west of the River Ohio, would be beneficial to the people of the Indiana Territory. The suspension of this article is an object almost universally desired in that territory.
It appears to your committee to be a question entirely different from that between slavery and freedom; inasmuch as it would merely occasion the removal of persons, already slaves, from one part of the country to another. The good effects of this suspension, in the present instance, would be to accelerate the population of that territory, hitherto retarded by the operation of that article of compact, as slave-holders emigrating into the western country might then indulge any preference which they might feel for a settlement in the Indiana Territory, instead of seeking, as they are now compelled to do, settlements in other states or countries permitting the introduction of slaves. The condition of the slaves themselves would be much ameliorated by it, as it is evident, from experience, that the more they are separated and diffused, the more care and attention are bestowed on them by their masters, each proprietor having it in his power to increase, their comforts and conveniences, in proportion to the smallness of their numbers.”
Just previous to the war of 1812, with Great Britain, Indiana was harassed by the hostile movements of the Shawnees, led on by Tecumseh and his brother the Prophet. To oppose these proceedings, bodies of regular troops and militia were concentrated at Vincennes, and placed under the command of William Henry Harrison, then governor. On Nov. 7, 1811, the governor appeared before Prophet's town, or
Tippecanoe
, on the Wabash, and demanded restitution of the property which the Indians had carried off. After a conference it was agreed that hostilities should not commence until
The war of 1812, with Great Britain, gave a fresh impetus to Indian hostilities. Seduced into the British service, the Indians, after committing great cruelties, received full retribution from the Americans; their villages were destroyed and their country laid waste.
The outline of the military events which occurred within the present boundaries of the state, are as follows:
Fort Harrison, situated on the Wabash, 60 miles above Vincennes, was attacked on the night of the 4th of September, 1812, by several hundred Indians from the Prophet's town. In the evening previous, 30 or 40 Indians appeared before the fort with a flag under the pretense of obtaining provisions. The commander, Capt. Zachary Taylor (since president), made preparations for the expected attack. In the night, about 11 o'clock, the Indians commenced the attack by firing on the sentinel. Almost immediately, the lower block-house was discovered to have been set on fire. As this building joined the barracks which made part of the fortifications, most of the men panic stricken, gave themselves up for lost. In the mean time, the yells of several hundred savages, the cries of the women and children, and the despondency of the soldiers, rendered it a scene of confusion. But the presence of mind of the captain, did not forsake him. By the most strenuous exertions on his part, the fire was prevented from spreading, and before day the men had erected a temporary breast-work seven feet high, within the spot where the building was consumed. The Indians kept up the attack until morning, when, finding their efforts ineffectual, they retired. At this time, there were not more than 20 men in the garrison fit for duty.
Shortly after, Gen. Hopkins, with a large force, engaged in two different expeditions against the Indians on the head waters of the Wabash and the Illinois. The first was in October. With 4,000 mounted volunteers from Kentucky, Illinois and Indiana, he left Vincennes early in the month, relieved Fort Harrison on the 10th, and from thence, marched for the Kickapoo villages, and the Peoria towns—the first 100, and the last 160 miles distant. But his men mutinizing, he was obliged to return before reaching the hostile towns. On the 11th of November, he marched from Fort Harrison, on his second expedition, with a detachment of regular troops and volunteers. On the 20th, he arrived at the Prophet's town, at which place and vicinity, he destroyed 300 wigwams, and large quantities of Indian corn. Several other expeditions were successfully accomplished, against the Indians on the Wabash, the Illinois, and their tributaries, by which the security of that frontier was effected.
Immediately after the massacre at Chicago, Fort Wayne was closely besieged by several hundred Miami and Pottawatomie Indians. The garrison numbered only some 60 or 70 effective men. The siege continued until near the middle of September, when Gen. Harrison marched to its relief with 2,500 men, upon which the Indians fled.
From Franklinton, in Central Ohio, Harrison, in November, sent Col. Campbell, with 600 men, against the Indian towns on the Missininneway, a branch of the Wabash. They destroyed several of their towns, and defeated the Indians in a hard fought battle, but the severity of the weather compelled them to return.
Until 1800, the territory now included in Indiana, remained a portion of the North-west Territory. In this year it was, including the present state
64Indiana Territory.
In 1809, the western part of the territory was set off as “Illinois Territory.” In 1816, Indiana was admitted into the Union as a sovereign state. In 1851, a new constitution was adopted by the people.
Until 1818, the central part of Indiana was an unbroken wilderness, inhabited by the Miami, Delaware, and Shawnee Indians. By a treaty at St. Mary's, Ohio, October 2, 1818, between Lewis Cass, Jonathan Jennings, and Benjamin Park, commissioners, and the Delaware Indians, the latter ceded all their territory in Indiana to the United States, covenanting to deliver the possession in 1821. This region was afterward called “the New Purchase.” Its reported fertility and beauty attracted settlers, who immediately entered the country and made settlements at various points.
Indiana is bounded N. by Michigan and Lake Michigan, W. by Illinois, E. by Ohio, and S. by the Ohio River. It lies between 37° 45′ and 41° 52′ N. Lat., and 85° 49′ 30″ and 88° 2′ 30″ W. Long. Its extreme length from north to south is 276 miles, and its greatest width 176, containing 33,809 square miles, or 21, 637,760 acres. The soil of the state is generally good, and much of it highly fertile. The richest lands are found in the river bottoms, where the soil is very deep. This is especially the case in the valleys of the Wabash and its tributaries, and in some parts of the Ohio valley.
There are no mountains in Indiana, but the country bordering on the Ohio, and in some other parts is hilly and broken. It is estimated that about two thirds of the state is level, or at most slightly undulating. Bordering on all the principal streams, except the Ohio, are strips of bottom and prairie land from three to five miles in width. Remote from the rivers, the country is broken and the soil light. Between the Wabash and Lake Michigan, the surface is generally level, interspersed with woodlands, prairies and swamps. On the shores of Lake Michigan are sand hills 210 feet high, back of which are sandy hillocks with a growth of pine. The prairies bordering on the Wabash have a soil from two to five feet in depth.
The principal agricultural production of Indiana is Indian corn: great quantities of pork and flour are annually exported. It is stated that Indiana has beds of coal within her limits covering 7,700 square miles, capable of yielding 50,000,000 bushels to the square mile. The population of Indiana in 1800 was 4,875; in 1820, 147,178; in 1840, 685,886; in 1850, 988,393; and in 1860, 1,359,802.
Vincennes,
the county seat of Knox county, is pleasantly situated on the left bank of Wabash River, 120 miles S.W. of Indianapolis, 192 from Cincinnati, 147 from St. Louis, and 56 N. of Evansville, on the Ohio. It is on the line of the Ohio and Mississippi Railroad, and is connected with Evansville at the south, and with Terra Haute and other places at the north, by railroad. The town is regularly laid out on a fertile level prairie. The Wabash is navigable for steamboats to this point. Vincennes contains eight churches. It is the seat of a Catholic bishopric, and a large, spacious Cathedral is erected here. Considerable attention is paid to education, and of the principal institutions, several are Catholic, viz: an ecclesiastical seminary, female academy, and two orphan asylums. The Vincennes University has 125 students. Population about 6,000.
Vincennes is the oldest town in the state: it was settled by a colony of French emigrants from Canada, in 1735. Some historians claim that it was occupied as a French post as early as 1720. It received its present name inM. de Vincennes
, a French officer who was killed that year among the Chickasaws. For a long period nothing of much moment seems to have occurred in the history of St. Vincent, as Vincennes was sometimes called. At the commencement of the American Revolution, most of the old French posts were garrisoned with British troops, who incited the Indian tribes in their vicinity to take up arms against the Americans. In 1778, Col. George Rogers Clark was sent by the legislature of Virginia, with a small force, to take possession of the British posts on the western frontiers. By his address he succeeded in obtaining possession of Kaskaskia, Cahokia, and Vincennes, without bloodshed.
South view of the Harrison House, Vincennes.
The house here represented was erected by Gen. Harrison, when governor of the territory. It stands On the banks of the Wabash, a few rods easterly from the railroad bridge. The grove in which Tecumseh met the council is immediately in front of the house, two trees of which, seen on the left, are the only ones remaining. The track of the Ohio and Mississippi Railroad appears in the foreground.
In Dec., 1778, Hamilton, the British governor at Detroit, came down upon St. Vincent, or Vincennes, with a large body of troops in an unexpected manner. At this time, Post Vincennes was garrisoned by two men only, Capt. Helm, of Virginia, and one Henry. “Helm, however, was not disposed to yield, absolutely, to any odds; so, loading his single cannon, he stood by it with a lighted match. When the British came nigh he bade them stand, and demanded to know what terms would be granted the garrison, as otherwise he should not surrender. The governor, unwilling to lose time and men, offered the usual honors of war, and could scarcely believe his eyes when he saw the threatening garrison to be only one officer and one private.” On the 24th of Feb., 1779, Col. Clark, with a force of one hundred and seventy men, including pack-horsemen, etc., re-appeared before Vincennes, and demanded its surrender. It was garrisoned at this time by seventy-nine men, under the command of Lieut. Gov. Hamilton, who was called the
“hair buyer,”
for his offering the Indians a certain sum for each scalp they brought in. He was compelled to give up “Fort Sackville,” and with some others, was sent prisoner to Virginia.
With the capture of Vincennes and the other British posts, of Kaskaskia,
The following account of the celebrated interview between Tecumseh and Gen. Harrison, in front of the Harrison House, now standing in Vincennes, is from Judge Law's “Colonial History of Post Vincennes, etc.:”
In the spring of 1810, Gen. Harrison, being governor of the North-western Territory, and residing at Vincennes—the seat of government—had learned from various quarters that Tecumseh had been visiting the different Indian tribes, scattered along the valleys of the Wabash and Illinois, with a view of forming an alliance and making common cause against the whites, and that there was great probability that his mission had been successful. Aware, as he was, that if this was the case, and that if the combination had been formed, such as was represented, the settlements in the southern portion of Indiana and Illinois were in great danger; that Vincennes itself would be the first object of attack, and that, with a handful of troops in the territory, a successful resistance might not be made; and not probably fully aware of the extent of the organization attempted by Tecumseh, and desirous of avoiding, if he could, the necessity of a call to arms, he sent a message to him, then residing at the “Prophet's Town,” inviting him to a council, to be held at as early a period as possible, for the purpose of talking over and amicably settling all difficulties which might exist between the whites and the Shawnees. It was not until the month of August of the same year, that Tecumseh, accompanied by about seventy of his warriors made his appearance. They encamped on the banks of the Wabash, just above the town, and Tecumseh gave notice to the governor that, in pursuance of his invitation, he had come to hold a talk “with him and his braves.” The succeeding day was appointed for the meeting. The governor made all suitable preparations for it. The officers of the territory and the leading citizens of the town were invited to be present, while a portion ofa company of militia was detailed as a guard—fully armed and equipped for any emergency. Notice
had been sent to Tecumseh, previous to the meeting, that it was expected that himself and a portion of his principal warriors would be present at the council. The council was held in the open lawn before the governor's house, in a grove of trees which then surrounded it. But two of these, I regret to say, are now remaining. At the time appointed, Tecumseh and some fifteen or twenty of his warriors made their appearance. With a firm and elastic step, and with a proud and somewhat defiant look, he advanced to the place where the governor and those who had been invited to attend the conference were sitting. This place had been fenced in, with a view of preventing the crowd from encroaching upon the council during its deliberations. As he stepped forward he seemed to scan the preparations which had been made for his reception, particularly the military part of it, with an eye of suspicion—by no means, however, of fear. As he came in front of the
dais
, an elevated portion of the place upon which the governor and the officers of the territory were seated, the governor invited him, through his interpreter, to come forward and take a seat with him and his counsellors, premising the invitation by saying: “That it was the wish of
their
‘Great Father,’ the President of the United States, that he should do so.” The chief paused for a moment, as the words were uttered and the sentence finished, and raising his tall form to its greatest hight, surveyed the troops and the crowd around him. Then with his keen eyes fixed upon the governor for a single moment, and turning then, to the sky above, with his sinewy arm pointing toward the heavens, and with a tone and manner indicative of supreme contempt for the paternity assigned him, said, in a voice whose clarion tone was heard throughout the whole assembly:
“My Father!—The sun is my father—the earth is my mother—and on her bosom
” Having finished, he stretched himself with his warriors on the green sward. The effect, it is said, was electrical, and for some moments there was perfect silence.
The governor, through the interpreter, then informed him, “that he had understood he had complaints to make and redress to ask for certain wrongs which he, Tecumseh, supposed had been done his tribe, as well as the others; that he felt disposed to listen to the one and make satisfaction for the other, if it was proper he should do so. That in all his intercourse and negotiations with the Indians, he had endeavored to act justly and honorably with them, and believed he had done so, and had learned of no complaint of his conduct until he learned that Tecumseh was endeavoring to create dissatisfaction toward the government, not only among the Shawnees, but among the other tribes dwelling on the Wabash and Illinois; and had, in so doing, produced a great deal of trouble between them and the whites by averring that the tribes whose land the government had lately purchased, had no right to sell, nor their chiefs any authority to convey. That he, the governor, had invited him to attend the council, with a view of learning from his own lips, whether there was any truth in the reports which he had heard, and to learn whether he, or his tribe, had any just cause of complaint against the whites, and, if so, as a man and a warrior, openly to avow it. That as between himself and as great a warrior as Tecumseh, there should be no concealment—all should be done by them under a clear sky, and in an open path, and with these feelings on his own part, he was glad to meet him in council.” Tecumseh arose as soon as the governor had finished. Those who knew him speak of him as one of the most splendid specimens of his tribe—celebrated for their physical proportions and fine forms, even among the nations who surrounded them. Tall, athletic and manly, dignified, but graceful, he seemed the beau ideal of an Indian chieftain. In a voice first low, but with all its indistinctness, musical, he commenced his reply. As he warmed with his subject, his clear tones might be heard, as if “trumpet-tongued,” to the utmost limits of the assembled crowd who surrounded him. The most perfect silence prevailed, except when the warriors who surrounded him gave their gutteral assent to some eloquent recital of the red man's wrong and the white man's injustice. Well instructed in the traditions of his tribe, fully acquainted with their history, the councils, treaties, and battles of the two races for half a century, he recapitulated the wrongs of the red man from the massacre of the Moravian Indians, during the revolutionary war, down to the period he had met the governor in council. He told him “he did not know how he could ever again be the friend of the white man.” In reference to the public domain, he asserted “that the Great Spirit had given all the country from the Miami to the Mississippi, from the lakes to the Ohio, as a common property to all the tribes that dwelt within those borders, and that the land could not, and should not be sold without the consent of all. That all the tribes on the continent formed but one nation. That if the United States would not give up the lands they had bought of the Miamis, the Delawares, the Pottowatomies, and other tribes, that those united with him were determined to fall on those tribes and annihilate them. That they were determined to have no more chiefs, but in future to be governed by their warriors. That their tribes had been driven toward the setting sun, like a galloping horse (Ne-kat-a-cush-e Ka-top-o-lin-to.) That for himself and his warriors, he had determined to resist all further aggressions of the whites, and that with his consent, or that of the Shawnees, they should never acquire another foot of land. To those who have never heard of the Shawnee language, I may here remark it is the most musical and euphonious of all the Indian languages of the west. When spoken rapidly by a fluent speaker, it sounds more like the scanning of Greek and Latin verse, than anything I can compare it to. The effect of this address, of which I have simply given the outline, and which occupied an hour in the delivery, may be readily imagined.
William Henry Harrison was as brave a man as ever lived. All who knew him will acknowledge his courage, moral and physical, but he was wholly unprepared for such a speech as this. There was a coolness, an independence, a defiance in the whole manner and matter of the chieftain's speech which astonished even him. He knew Tecumseh well. He had learned to appreciate his high qualities as a“he lies!
” Barron, who had, as all subordinates (especially in the Indian department) have, a great reverence and respect for the “powers that be,” commenced interpreting the language of Tecumseh to the governor, but not exactly in the terms made use of, when Tecumseh, who understood but little English, perceived from his embarrassment and awkwardness, that he was not giving his words, interrupted him and again addressing him in Shawnee, said: “No, no;
tell him he lies.
” The gutteral assent of his party showed they coincided with their chief's opinion. Gen. Gibson, secretary of the territory, who understood Shawnee, had not been an inattentive spectator of the scene, and understanding the import of the language made use of, and from the excited state of Tecumseh and his party, was apprehensive of violence, made a signal to the troops in attendance to shoulder their arms and advance. They did so. The speech of Tecumseh was literally translated to the governor. He directed Barron to say to him,
“he would hold no further council with him,”
and the meeting broke up.
One can hardly imagine a more exciting scene—one which would be a finer subject for an “historical painting,” to adorn the rotunda of the capitol, around which not a single picture commemorative of western history is to be found. On the succeeding day, Tecumseh requested another interview with the governor, which was granted on condition that he should make an apology to the governor for his language the day before. This he made through the interpreter. Measures for defense and protection were however taken, lest there should be another outbreak. Two companies of militia were ordered from the country, and the one in town added to them, while the governor and his friends went into council fully armed and prepared for any contingency. The conduct of Tecumseh upon this occasion was entirely different from that of the day before. Firm and intrepid, showing not the slightest fear or alarm, surrounded as he was with the military force quadrupling his own, he preserved the utmost composure and equanimity. No one could have discerned from his looks, although he must have fully understood the object of calling in the troops, that he was in the slightest degree disconcerted. He was cautious in his bearing, dignified in his manner, and no one from observing
In the interval between the sessions of the first and second council, Tecumseh had told Barron, the interpreter, “that he had been informed by the
whites
, that the people of the territory were almost equally divided, half in favor of Tecumseh, and the other adhering to the governor.” The same statement he made in council. He said “that two
Americans
had made him a visit, one in the course of the preceding winter, the other lately, and informed him that Governor Harrison had purchased land from the Indians without any authority from the government, and that one half of the people were opposed to the purchase. He also told the governor that he, Harrison, had but two years more to remain in office, and if
he
, Tecumseh, could prevail upon the Indians who sold the lands not to receive their annuities for that time, that when the governor was displaced, as he would be, and a good man appointed as his successor, he would restore to the Indians all the lands purchased from them.” After Tecumseh had concluded his speech, a Wyandot, a Kickapoo, a Pottawatomie, an Ottowa, and a Winnebago chief, severally spoke, and declared that their tribes had entered into the “Shawnee Confederacy,” and would support the principles laid down by Tecumseh, whom they had appointed their leader.
At the conclusion of the council, the governor informed Tecumseh “that he would immediately transmit his speech to the president, and as soon as his answer was received would send it to him; but as a person had been appointed to run the boundary line of the new purchase, he wished to know whether there would be danger in his proceeding to run the line.” Tecumseh replied, “that he and his allies were determined that the old boundary line should continue, and that if the whites crossed it, it would be at their peril.” The governor replied, “that since Tecumseh had been thus candid in stating his determination, he would be equally so with him. The president, he was convinced, would never allow that the lands on the Wabash were the property of any other tribes than those who had occupied them, and lived on them since the white people came to America. And as the title to the lands lately purchased was derived from those tribes by fair purchase, he might rest assured that the right of the United States would be supported by the sword.”
“So be it,” was the stern and haughty reply of the “Shawnee chieftain,” as he and his braves took leave of the governor and wended their way in Indian file to their camping ground. And thus ended the last conference on earth between the chivalrous and gallant Tecumseh, the Shawnee chief, and he who since the period alluded to has ruled the destinies of the nation as its chief magistrate. The bones of the first lie bleaching on the battle-field of the Thames—those of the last are deposited in the mausoleum that covers them on the banks of the Ohio.
Indianapolis,
the capital of Indiana, and seat of justice for Marion county, is on the west fork of White River, at the crossing of the National Road, 109 miles N.W. from Cincinnati, 86 N.N.W. from Madison, on the Ohio, and 573 W. by N. from Washington. The city is located on a fertile and extensive plain, two miles N.W. of the geographical center of the state, which was formerly covered with a dense growth of timber. The original town plat was a mile square, but it has extended itself on all sides. Washington-street through which the National Road passes, the principal street in the city, is 120 feet wide, Circle-street 80 feet, the others 90 feet. On the 1st of Jan., 1825, the public offices of the state were removed from Corydon, the former capital, to Indianapolis, and the seat of government established here; but the legislature held its sessions in the county court house, until Dec., 1834, when the state house was completed. This showy structure, 180 feet long by 80 wide, is on the model of the Parthenon at Athens, and was built at a cost of about $60,000.
Indianapolis is one of the greatest railroad centers in the world, nearly
one hundred
different trains pass in and out of the city daily, and from 3,000 to 5,000 persons visit the place in twenty-four hours. It is stated that the citizens of 80 of the 91 counties in the state, can come to Indianapolis, attend to business, and return the same day. The completion of the Madison and Indianapolis Railroad gave a great impetus to the growth of the place: then the population was about 4,000, now about 22,000.
View of the State House, from Washington-street, Indianapolis.
The streets of the city are broad, laid out at right angles, well shaded and adorned with a number of very superior buildings. The benevolent institutions of the state, for the insane, deaf and dumb, and the blind, are located at this place, and are an ornament to the city and state. The city has 16 churches, a system of free graded schools, and is the seat of the North-western Christian University, a flourishing institution under the patronage of the Christian Church. The university building is an elegant edifice in the Gothic style.
The following historical items are extracted from Howard's Historical Sketch of Indianapolis, in the city directory for 1857:
In 1818, Dr. Douglass ascended White River from the lower counties, tarrying at the bluffs for a short time, and Col. James Paxton descended it from its headwaters, reaching this place in January or February, 1819. He again returned in 1820, and made some preparations for settlement but never completed them. The honor due to the ‘first settler,’ belongs to John Pogue, who came from Whitewater and settled here on the 2d day of March, 1819. His cabin stood by a large spring, close to the east bank of ‘Pogue's Run,’ near the present residence of W. P. Noble. Its ruins were visible until within a few years, and perhaps exist at this time. Pogue was killed by the Indians in April, 1821. His horses were missing one morning in that month, and as some disturbance had been heard among them during the night, he concluded the Indians had stolen them, and armed himself for pursuit. When last seen he was near the Indian camp, and as his horses and clothes were afterward seen in their possession, little doubt remained
Main Passenger Railroad Station, Union Depot, Indianapolis.
Showing the appearance of the Station as it is entered from the west.
In February, 1820, John and James McCormick built a cabin near the present river bridge. In the early part of March, John Maxwell and John Cowen built cabins in the north-west corner of the donation, near the Michigan road, Fall creek bridge. In April, 1821, Mr. Maxwell was appointed a justice of the peace by Gov. Jennings, and was the first judicial officer in ‘the New Purchase.’ He retained the office until June, and then resigned. The citizens held an informal election, and selected James McIlvaine, who was thereupon appointed a justice by Gov. Jennings, in Oct, 1821.
In the latter part of March, and in April and May of 1820, a number of emigrants arrived, and at the end of the latter month there were 15 families on the donation. Among them were Messrs. Davis, Bainhill, Corbley, Wilson, Van Blaricum and Harding. Emigrants now began to turn their faces toward the infant settlement, and it slowly and steadily increased for a year afterward.
The eagerness of the settlers to appropriate lands in the New Purchase, found its counterpart in the action of the state, concerning the location of the new seat of government. The act of Congress, of April 19, 1816, authorizing the formation of a state government, donated four sections of the Unsold public lands to the state, for a permanent seat of government, giving the privilege of selection. The subject was considered immediately after the treaty at St. Marys, and on the 11th of January, 1820, the legislature, by law, appointed George Hunt, John Conner, John Gilliland, Stephen Ludlow, Joseph Bartholomew, John Tipton, Jesse B. Dunham, Frederick Rapp, Wm. Prince, and Thomas Emerson, commissioners to select a location for a permanent seat of government.
The settlement afterward moved east, the unparalleled sickness of 1821 convincing the settlers that a residence away from the river was the best for them. A fine grove of tall straight sugar trees stood on the ‘Governor's Circle.’ On Sundays the early settlers assembled there to hear preaching by Rev. John McClung. They sat on the logs and grass about him in Indian style. This gentleman was probably the first preacher in the place, and preached the first sermon on this spot in the summer or fall of 1821. Other authorities say that the first sermon was preached this year where the state house now stands, by Rev. Risen Hammond.
Calvin Fletcher, Esq., who now lives just north of the city, was then the only attorney-at-law in the new settlement, and the ultimate judge in all knotty cases. There was no jail nearer than Connersville, and the culprit sentenced to imprisonment, had to be conveyed by the constable and his posse, on horseback through the woods to that place. This involved much time, trouble and expense, and the shorter plan was afterward adopted to scare them away. An instance occurred on Christmas day, 1821. Four Kentucky boatmen, who had ‘whipped their weight in wild-cats,’ came from ‘the bluffs’ to ‘Naples’ (as they called the town), to have a jolly Christmas spree. The ‘spree’ began early, and the settlers were aroused before the dawn, by a terrible racket at Daniel Larken's grocery. A hasty reconnoissance revealed the four heroes busily engaged in the laudable work of ‘taking it down.’ A request to desist provoked strong expletives, attended by a display of large knives, which demonstration caused the citizens to ‘retire’ to consult. They were interested in the grocery, and besides that, such lawless proceedings could not be tolerated. They therefore determined to conquer at all hazards. James Blake volunteered to grapple the ring leader, a man of herculean size and strength, if the rest would take the three others. The attack was made at once. the party conquered, and marched under guard through the woods to Justice McIlvaine's cabin. They were tried and heavily fined, and in default of payment ordered to jail. They could not pay, and it was deemed impossible to take them through the woods to Connersville at that season of the year. A guard was, therefore, placed over them, with the requisite instructions, and during the night the doughty heroes escaped to more congenial climes.
Toward the end of the summer [1821], and during the fall, epidemic, remittent, and intermittent fevers and agues assailed the people, and scarcely a person was left untouched. Although several hundred cases occurred, not more than five terminated fatally.
After escaping death by disease, the people were threatened with starvation. In consequence of sickness, the influx of people and the small amount of grain raised, the supply of provisions in the settlement became very meager in the fall and winter of 1821. No roads had been opened to the town, and all goods and provisions had to be packed on horseback, 50 or 60 miles through the woods, or brought up the river in keel boats. The latter method was adopted in 1822, and the arrival of each boat was greeted by a concourse of ‘the whole people,’ and duly announced in the ‘Indianapolis Gazette.’ Coffee was worth 50 cents a pound; tea, $2 00; corn, $1 00 per bushel; flour, $4 00 to $5 00 per hundred; coarse muslin, 45 cents per yard, and other goods in proportion. To relieve the people and prevent starvation, flour and other articles were brought from the Whitewater Valley, and corn was purchased at the Indian villages up the river and boated down to the town. The nearest mill was Goodlandin on Whitewater River, and the arrival of a cargo of meal and flour, or of other articles from that quarter, produced general joy in the settlement. The settlers generously relieved each other's distress in this case, as in the preceding sickness, and many pecks of meal, sacks of flour, parcels of fish, meat, and other articles of food, were distributed to some more destitute neighbor.
After the October sale of lots, the weather, which, during the summer, had been very wet and changeable, and in the fall cold and gloomy, changed, and a long and beautiful Indian summer began. The sick quickly recovered their health, strength and spirits. The settlement rapidly tended to the east, for the sickness had been worse near the river, and the new comers and older settlers built their cabins
The first marriage, the first birth, and the first death, occurred in 1821. The first wedding was between Miss Reagan and Jeremiah Johnson. He walked to Connersville and back, 120 miles, for his marriage license; and others did the same until the county was organized.
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the grave-yard in this place:
Noah Noble,
born in Virginia, Jan. 15, A. D., 1794. Governor of Indiana from 1831 to 1837. Died at Indianapolis Feb. A. D. 1844.
Andrew Kennedy,
late a Representative to Congress from Indiana, born July 24, 1810. Died Dec. 31, 1847. This stone is erected to his memory by his friends, in token of their love of the man, and their respect for his ability and integrity as a Statesman.
James Whitcomb,
a native of Vermont, Born Dec. 1795, brought to Ohio when 11 years old.
Self-taught,
commenced practice of Law 1822, at Bloomington, Indiana, was State and Circuit Attorney; State Senator; Commissioner of General Land Office; twice Governor of Indiana. Died Oct. 1852, at the City of New York, while Senator of the United States. Eminent in learning, Devoted to Country and God.
Isaac Coe,
M.D., born July 25, 1782, died July 30, 1855, the founder of Sabbath Schools in Indianapolis.
Terre Haute,
city, and the county seat for Vigo county, is situated on the left or eastern bank of the Wabash River, 73 miles west of Indianapolis; 109 N. from Evansville; 69 N. from Vincennes, and 187 E. from St. Louis
Court House and other buildings, Terre Haute.
As seen from the north-west corner of the Public Square. The State Bank and the spire of the Methodist Church appear on the right; the Mayor's office, or Town Hall, and the tower of the Universalist Church on the left. A grove of Locust trees formerly surrounded the Court House.
Terre Haute offers great inducements for all kinds of manufacturing business; fuel and labor are cheap and abundant. It is surrounded by extensive coal fields; good quarries of building stone lie near; iron ores of superior quality are in close proximity, and with every facility for transportation by canal, river and railroad. The city contains 10 churches, and about 10,000 inhabitants.
Terre Haute (French words for
hiqh land
), was founded in 1816; in 1830 it contained 600 inhabitants: in 1840, about 2,000. The first settlement was made on the river bank. Fort Harrison was situated about three miles to the north: and in the war of 1812, was successfully defended by Capt. Zachary Taylor, from an attack by the Indians as related on page 1017.
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the grave yard at this place:
William C. Linton,
born in 1795, died Jan. 31, 1835. He was one of the earliest settlers
Here lie the remains of
Thomas H. Blake,
born in Calvert Co., Md., July 25, 1792, died in Cincinnati Nov. 28, 1849. He was one of the earliest settlers of this place; had been Presiding Judge of a circuit; a Representative in Congress; Commissioner of the General Land Office; filled other offices of responsibility under the State and General Governments, and was, at the time of his death, the President Trustee of the Wabash and Erie Canal. For honor, frankness, and integrity, as a firm and generous friend, he was extensively known, and died without reproach upon his name, leaving a memory for noble manly virtues that will long be cherished.
Richmond,
in Wayne county, is situated 4 miles from the eastern boundary of the state, on the east fork of Whitewater River, where it is crossed by the National Road and Central Railroad, 68 miles from Indianapolis, 40 from Dayton, O., and 64 N.N.W. from Cincinnati. It is the center of an active trade, possesses railroad communications in various directions, and has flourishing manufactories of cotton, wool, flour, iron, paper, etc., for which the river affords abundant motive power. In the vicinity are 22 flouring mills and 24 saw mills. A large number of agricultural implements are manufactured here. The principal street is the old National Road, running east and west, which is thickly built upon for about a mile. There is a fine bridge erected here, with stone abutments, over which the National Road passes, containing tablets or monuments erected by the citizens, on which are engraved the names of the contractors and builders of the bridge. The
Friends' Boarding School
, about a mile from the post-office, is the principal literary institution, and has about 100 students of both sexes. Population about 7,000.
Friends' Boarding School.
The first emigrants to the neighborhood were principally from Kentucky, North Carolina, and Ohio. Richmond was laid out in 1816, and the lands patented to John Smith and Jeremiah Cox. In 1818, Ezra Boswell, Thomas Swain, Robert Morrison, and John McLane were elected trustees, the number of voters at the time being twenty-four. The town was first called
Smithfield
, from the name of the proprietor.
Until 1817, the early emigrants procured their flour at Germantown, or some other distant settlement in the Miami valley. In the year named a “tub mill” was erected by Jeremiah Cox, where the present oil mill stands. The first opening in the forest was made by Woodkirk, on the land now owned by C. W. Starr, near where J. Cox built his brick house. The making of the National Road through Richmond, in 1828, gave an impulse to the place. Dr. J. T. Plummer, in his Historical Sketch of Richmond, states, “I hold in distinct remembrance the old log meeting house of 1823, standing near the site of the present large brick one. I remember
The first post office was established in 1818, Robert Morrison being the first postmaster. The first tavern stood at the north-east corner of Main and Pearl-streets, with the sign of a green tree: it was kept by Jonathan Bayles. The first lawyer, says Dr. Plummer, “was one Hardy, who boarded at Ephraim Lacey's tavern, and walked the pavement (such as it was) with his thumbs stuck in the arm-holes of his vest, and his head pompously thrown back spouting the phrase
‘Qui facit per alium, facit per se:
’ but still no business came, and he concluded to go further south where merit was better rewarded.” A Dr. Cushman came here in 1820, who afterward returned to Fort Wayne, where he was an associate judge. He opened a distillery at the south part of the town, on the side of the hill on Front-street, near a spring. A large portion of the inhabitants at that time being Friends (commonly called Quakers), this enterprize did not succeed, and the establishment passed into the hands of Dr. Ithamer Warner, who also soon abandoned it, and it went down to rise no more. Dr. Warner was the principal physician for many years. He came into the county about 1815, and died in March, 1835. Dr. Thos. Carroll, now of Cincinnati, settled in Richmond in 1819, and left in 1823; he was probably the first regular physician in Richmond.
The first newspaper published in Richmond was the
Richmond Weekly lntelligencer.
This was in 1821. The printing office was on Front-street; the editor was Elijah Lacy. The second was the
Public Ledger
, first issued in 1824; the
Richmond Palladium
was first issued in 1831. The
Jeffersonian
was established in 1836, by a democratic association, under the title of “Hickory Club,” and was principally edited by S. E. Perkins, now a judge of the supreme court. The
Indiana Farmer
was commenced in 1851: the
Broad Axe of Freedom
was first issued by Jamison & Johnson, in 1855. The Richmond Library was incorporated and established in 1826. In 1853 a railroad communication was opened to Cincinnati, by way of Dayton.
Most of the earliest residents of Wayne county, were members of the Society of Friends. The first meeting of the society was held in 1807, in a log building vacated by Jeremiah Cox. Jesse Bond, John Morrow and Wm. Williams were among their earliest ministers. The next religious society was the Methodist Episcopal, who held their first meeting in 1819, in a small log house on Front-street. Daniel Fraley was, perhaps, the first Methodist preacher in this section. John W. Sullivan was the first stationed minister in Richmond. The first Presbyterian church was established in 1837, by T. E. Hughes and P. H. Golliday, with 28 members; their first preacher was Charles Sturdevant. The English Evangelical Lutheran congregation was organized in 1853. The Catholic church was organized in 1846. St. Paul's Episcopal church was organized in 1838. George Fiske was their first minister. The German Evangelical Lutheran was organized in 1845. The African Methodist Episcopal church was organized in 1836. The gas works were built in 1855.
Evansville,
the county seat of Vanderburgh county, is situated on the high northern bank of the Ohio River, 200 miles from its entrance into the Mississippi, 200 miles below Louisville, Ky., and 144 S.S.W. of Indianapolis. The Wabash and Erie Canal, 462 miles in extent, the longest on the continent, terminates here. It is a place of much trade, being the chief mart of the rich valley of Green River, in Kentucky. The annual exports of the city exceed seven millions of dollars in value, of which pork, lard and tobacco are the principal articles. It has four extensive iron founderies, several large flour mills, a brass foundery, and upward of sixty steam engines are employed in the various manufactories. The Bodian coal mine, about a mile from the court house, supplies the work-shops with fuel. It contains 14 churches, in about half of which the German language is used. The
Evansville received its name from Robert Morgan Evans, a native of Virginia, who, with James W. Jones, of Kentucky, and Hugh McGary, were the three original proprietors of the place. The plat of the city was laid out in 1836, by these proprietors, and was originally covered by a dense forest. The first house in
South-western view of Evansville.
As it appears from the Kentucky side of the Ohio River. The side-walk in front of the line of houses, seen in the view, is 21 inches above the highest rise of water ever known.
Evansville was built by Hugh McGary, the patentee of the land. It was a log structure, occupying the site of the Pavilion House, shown in the view; the second house was built by Jonathan Robinson, on the river bank, between Mulberry and Green-streets. David Hart, of Fayette county, Ky., Isaac Blackford, now judge of the court of claims, in Washington, and Elisha Harrison, from Ohio, were among the first settlers of the place.
The first school house was erected, in 1831, by joint stock, and stood directly in the rear of the Washington House, opposite the court house. The New School Presbyterian church, now standing, was erected in 1832, and was the first house of worship built in the place. It was used at first as a kind of union house, where ministers of various denominations preached. Rev. Calvin Butler, a Congregational clergyman from the east, was the first regular preacher who occupied the pulpit. The Freewill Baptists, in or about 1837, erected the next church building; Rev. Benoni Stinson was their first minister. The German Lutheran and Catholic churches were established at or about the same period. The court house was erected in 1856. The first tavern was kept by — Wood, on Main, between Second and Third-streets.
The city limits extend to Pigeon creek, the village of Lamasco being included. The name La-mas-co is compounded of the names of
Law, McCall
and
Scott
, the original proprietors of the tract on both sides of Pigeon creek. The village was laid out in 1856, and the Bodian coal mine opened the same year. This mine received its appellation from the maiden name of Mrs. Kersteman, the wife of the superintendent. It is opened 280 feet below the surface, about 200 feet lower than the bed of the river. The vein is 5 feet thick. The coal is delivered to the inhabitants of the city at ten cents per bushel, fixed by law at 75 pounds to the bushel.
New Harmony
is a village of about 800 inhabitants, in Posey county, in that part of Indiana called
“the Pocket.
” It stands on the Wabash, about 100 miles from its mouth, following its meanders, but only 15 from the Ohio at Mount Vernon, its nearest point, and the south-westernmost town of the state. The place has acquired a wide reputation from two
socialistic experiments
—the first by George Rapp, of Germany, and the last by Robert Owen, of Scotland.
The Rappites, or, as they are sometimes called,
Harmonites
, first emigrated from Wirtemburg, in Germany, about the year 1803, having left their country, as they asserted, on account of persecution for their religious opinions, and first built a town in western Pennsylvania, which they called Harmony. But having the cultivation of the grape very much at heart, which did not appear to thrive as well as they wished, they sold out their establishment at Harmony, and in 1814, under the guidance of their pastor, Rev. George Rapp, moved to the Wabash, where the climate was supposed to be more congenial to their wishes. There they cleared the land, built a beautiful village, which they called New Harmony, containing about 150 houses, planted orchards and vineyards, erected mills and factories of various kinds, and made “the wilderness blossom like the rose.” According to their system, all property was held in common, there being no such thing known to them as an individual owning any. After remaining some eight or ten years, the Rappites discovered that the unhealthiness of this then new country, called for a change of climate, so they beat a speedy retreat. The society, therefore, returned to Pennsylvania in 1825; and selecting a site on the Ohio, 18 miles below Pittsburg, cleared the land, and built the present handsome town of Economy, which contains some 500 inhabitants. It is yet a thriving community, and since the death of its founder, is governed by nine trustees. The Duke of Saxe Weimer, who visited Economy about the year 1826, has left some interesting facts, upon the peculiarities of the Rappites:
Rapp's Church.
From a pencil sketch, made about the year 1830, by Prof. Richard Owen. The church is cruciform in shape, about 110 by 100 feet, and is yet standing, though divested of the cupola.
At the inn, a fine large frame house, we were received by Mr. Rapp, the principal, at the head of the community. He is a gray-headed and venerable old man; most of the members emigrated 21 years ago from Wirtemburg along with him.
The elder Rapp is a large man of 70 years old, whose powers age seems not to have diminished; his hair is gray, but his blue eyes, overshadowed by strong brows, are full of life and fire. Rapp's system is nearly the same as Owen's community of goods, and all members of the society work together for the common interest, by which the welfare of each individual is secured. Rapp does not hold his society together by these hopes alone, but also by the tie of religion, which is entirely wanting in Owen's community; and results declare that Rapp's system is the better. No great results can be expected from Owen's plan; and a sight of it is very little in its favor. What is most striking and wonderful of all is, that so plain a man as Rapp can so successfully bring and keep together a society of nearly 700 persons, who, in a manner, honor him as a prophet. Equally so for example is his power of government, which can
suspend the intercourse of the sexes.
He found that the society was becoming too numerous, wherefore the members agreed to
live with their wives as sisters.
All nearer intercourse is forbidden, as well as marriage; both are discouraged. However, some marriages constantly occur, and children are born every year, for whom there is provided a school and
The warehouse was shown to us, where the articles made here for sale or use are preserved, and I admired the excellence of all. The articles for the use of the society are kept by themselves, as the members have no private possessions, and everything is in common; so must they in relation to all their personal wants be supplied from the common stock. The clothing and food they make use of is of the best quality. Of the latter, flour, salt meat, and all long keeping articles, are served out monthly; fresh meat, on the contrary, and whatever spoils readily, is distributed whenever it is killed, according to the size of the family, etc. As every house has a garden, each family raises its own vegetables, and some poultry, and each family has its own bake oven. For such things as are not raised in Economy, there is a store provided, from which the members, with the knowledge of the directors, may purchase what is necessary, and the people of the vicinity may also do the same.
Mr. Rapp finally conducted us into the factory again, and said that the girls had especially requested this visit, that I might hear them sing. When their work is done, they collect in one of the factory rooms, to the number of 60 or 70, to sing spiritual and other songs. They have a peculiar hymn book, containing hymns from the Wirtemburg psalm book, and others written by the elder Rapp. A chair was placed for the old patriarch, who sat amidst the girls, and they commenced a hymn in a very delightful manner. It was naturally symphonious and exceedingly well arranged. The girls sang four pieces, at first sacred, but afterward, by Mr. Rapp's desire, of a gay character. With real emotion did I witness this interesting scene. The factories and workshops are warmed during winter by means of pipes connected with the steam-engine. All the workmen, and especially the females, had very healthy complexions, and moved me deeply by the warm-hearted friendliness with which they saluted the elder Rapp. I was also much gratified to see vessels containing fresh sweet-smelling flowers standing on all the machines. The neatness which universally reigns here is in every respect worthy of praise.
The second socialistic experiment here, proved less successful than the first. We give its history in the annexed communication from a correspondent familiar with the details:
In 1824, the village of the Rappites, including 20,000 acres of land, was purchased by Mr. Robert Owen, of New Lanark, Scotland, who, after a most successful experiment in ameliorating the physical and moral condition of the laboring classes in that manufacturing village, believed that New Harmony would be a highly suitable place for testing his “social system,” as explained in his “New Views of Society.” As soon, therefore, as the Harmonites had removed, to establish themselves at Economy, Pennsylvania, he gave a general invitation for those favorable to the community, in opposition to the competitive system, to give its practicability fair trial at New Harmony. The call was responded to by about seven or eight hundred persons, and Mr. Owen was also joined by another wealthy gentleman from Scotland, Mr. William Maclure, who purchased from Mr. Owen part of the property; and for one year the community progressed, in some respects, rather favorably, but chiefly at their expense, under the name of “The Preliminary Society.” As all institutions, however, to be permanent, must be self-sustaining, unless largely endowed, the above society, hoping better to effect the desired object by a division into departments having more immediately similar views and interests, formed agricultural, educational, and other similar subdivisions, or communities, which sustained themselves, at the furthest, two years more; being
65
Since that social experiment, a period to which (although a failure as regards its pecuniary sustaining power) many of the older inhabitants still look back with pleasure, as a promotive of benevolent, unselfish feeling, the houses, lots and adjoining lands have passed into the hands of individuals; and New Harmony progresses gradually, on the old system, being a quiet, orderly country town, geographically out of the great commercial thoroughfare.
The entire surviving family of the late Robert Owen, comprising three sons, one daughter, and numerous grandchildren, still resides there. The eldest son, Robert Dale Owen, represented the first district in congress, and has since been minister to Naples; the second son, William, died there some years since. The third son, Dr. D. D. Owen, has conducted two geological surveys for the United States, and is state geologist for three western states; he possesses, in New Harmony, one of the best scientific collections in the west, and a well-appointed laboratory. The fourth son, Dr. Richard Owen, was for nearly ten years professor of geology in the Western Military Institute (latterly the literary department of the University of Nashville, Tennessee), and later connected with the geological survey of Indiana. The daughter, Mrs. Fauntleroy, is widow of the late R. H. Fauntleroy, who lost his life in the service of the U. S. coast survey.
New Harmony was, at one period, the home of various distinguished individuals, who united in the social experiment, such as: Dr. G. Troost, the celebrated mineralogist, afterward state geologist of Tennessee, and professor in the University of Nashville; of Wm. P. D'Arusmont, who married Miss Frances Wright; of Thomas Say, the naturalist, to whose memory a fine monument was erected in New Harmony; of Joseph Neef, formerly an associate with Pestalozzi; of C. A. Lesneur, the ichthyologist, who was naturalist in the voyage of La Perouse to New Holland afterward curator of the Havre museum; and the town is still the residence of several scientific persons, and the seat of the Indiana School of Practical Sciences.
As noted above, the celebrated Fanny Wright was connected with the social scheme of Mr. Owen, at New Harmony. Thirty years ago her name was in the public papers of the day, as the most prominent of “the strong minded” of her sex in all the land. She was gifted with mental powers which impressed every one who approached her. The annexed sketch of this extraordinary woman is from a published source:
She was born at Dundee, in Scotland, it is believed, in 1796, and was better known by her maiden name, Fanny Wright, than by that of her husband, Darusmont. Her father, Mr. Wright, was intimate with Dr. Adam Smith, Dr. Cullen, and other men of literary and scientific eminence in his day. Hence, probably, his daughter, Fanny, became tinctured with an ambition to distinguish herself as a propagandist of social and political novelties. At the age of eighteen she wrote a little book, called “A Few Days in Athens,” in which she defended the opinions and character of Epicurus.
In 1818 she visited America, where she remained three years, and soon after published her observations under the title of “Views on Society and Manners in America.” She afterward visited Paris in compliance with an invitation from La Fayette. After her return to America, about the year 1825, she purchased 2,000 acres of land in Tennessee, subsequently the site of Memphis, and peopled it with a number of slave families whom she had redeemed.
In 1833, she appeared as a public lecturer. Her deep soprano voice, her commanding figure, and marvelous eloquence, combined with her zealous attacks on negro slavery, and some other prominent features in American institutions, soon made her famous throughout our country. Her powers of oratory drew crowds of listeners, especially in New York: Fanny Wright Societies were formed, resembling those of the French Communists.
Elated by her powers of oratory, she visited all the principal cities of the American
She then joined Robert Owen in his Communist scheme at New Harmony, editing the Gazette, and lecturing in behalf of the enterprise, in some of the large cities and towns of the western states, but with a success which did not equal he expectations. Subsequently, Miss Wright married M. A'Drusmont, a man who professed her own system of philosophy; but they soon separated, and she resided during the remainder of her life in America, with an only daughter, the fruit of her marriage. Her husband's suit at law, to obtain possession of her property, added still further to her notoriety.
This circumstance, and her ill health, tended to cool her political enthusiasm, if not to modify her opinions. Her experience did not, on the whole, afford much cause for self-gratulation, or furnish encouragement to others to embark in any similar enterprises for the reformation of society. She died at Cincinnati, January 13, 1853, aged 57 years.
South-eastern view in Calhoun-street, Fort Wayne.
Fort Wayne,
the county seat of Allen county, is situated on the line of the Wabash and Erie Canal, at the confluence of the St. Joseph's and St. Mary's Rivers, which here unite and form the Maumee, 112 miles N.E. from Indianapolis, 110 E.N.E. from Lafayette, and 96 W. from Toledo. It is a flourishing place, and by means of its railroad, canal and plank road communications, is quite a center of business. It is regularly laid out on level and fertile prairie land. About half the population are of recent foreign descent. Four newspapers are published in this place, one of which is in the German language. Population about 8,000.
The Twightees, a branch of the Miami tribe, had a village at Fort Wayne, in their language called
Ke-ki-o-que.
At one time it was called “French Store,” as it was for a long time a trading post of that nation, and the site of a military post. About the year 1764 the English built a fort here. Old Fort Wayne was erected here in 1794, and was continued a military post until 1819, until the removal of the Miamis and Pottawatomies, in 1841: it was resorted to by them for the disposal of their furs, and to spend their
“In the autumn of 1790, about 1,300 troops, of whom less than one fourth were regulars, marched from Cincinnati, under General Harmer, against the Indian towns on the Maumee, near the site of Fort Wayne. When within a short distance of their point of destination, Col. Hardin was detached with six hundred and fifty men. This advance, on reaching the Indian villages found them deserted. The next day, the main body having arrived, their towns, containing three hundred wigwams, were burnt, the fruit trees girdled, and 20,000 bushels of corn destroyed. While the troops were at the villages, a detachment of one hundred and fifty Kentucky militia and thirty regulars, under Col. Hardin, were sent on an Indian trail, when they fell into an ambush of seven hundred warriors under Little Turtle. At the first fire the militia fled without firing a shot, but the thirty regulars resisted with the greatest obstinacy until all were killed, except two officers and two or three privates. Ensign Armstrong was saved by falling behind a log while on the retreat, which screened him from his pursuers; while Captain Armstrong was preserved by plunging up to his neck in a swamp. There he remained all night a spectator of the war dance over the bodies of the dead and wounded soldiers, and the shrieks of the latter, as they were tortured, mingling with the yells of the savages.
When the army had proceeded one day on the return march, Col. Hardin and Maj. Willis were sent back with four hundred men, of whom sixty were regulars, to surprise the Indians, whom it was supposed would return. On entering the town a few of the enemy were seen, who immediately fled, and decoyed the militia into an irregular pursuit in different directions. This being accomplished, Little Turtle fell, with his main body, upon the regulars with great fury. They threw down their guns, and with their tomahawks, rushed upon the bayonets of the soldiers. While a soldier was engaged in the use of his bayonet upon one Indian, two others would sink their tomahawks in his head. The result was that every regular fell, together with their gallant major. Ere the conflict was over, a part of the militia who had returned from the pursuit, joined in the contest, but were compelled to retreat, leaving the dead and wounded in the hands of the enemy.
The expedition, in destroying the Indian villages, had accomplished the great object of its mission, although under circumstances of misfortune. It was succeeded by such vigorous exertions, on the part of the savages, that they must have succeeded in breaking up the American settlements, were it not for the total destruction of their property and provisions just at the approach of winter.”
The siege of Fort Wayne, in the war of 1812, was a memorable event in the history of this region, the particulars of which we derive from Howe's “Great West:”
In August, 1812, immediately after the disgraceful surrender of Hull, about five hundred Indian warriors laid siege to Fort Wayne, a dilapidated structure of wood which had been built in Wayne's campaign, near the north-eastern corner of Indiana, at the junction of the St. Joseph's and St. Mary's Rivers, main branches of the Maumee. The garrison, amounting to less than one seventh of their number, was commanded by Capt. Rhea, an old officer broken down by intemperance, and of a timid disposition. As at that period the whole sorrounding region was a wilderness, and they were far from succor, their danger was imminent.
They were finally saved from the horrors of an Indian massacre, by the daring bravery and address of a young Virginian, named William Oliver. This young man, scare twenty-one years of age, to a slender and delicate, though active figure, united in a high degree the qualities of undaunted courage, enthusiasm, firmness, and sagacity. A resident of Fort Wayne, he was at this time, temporarily absent at Cincinnati, and learning on his return route that the Indians had appeared before the fort, he voluntarily hurried back to the city to urge the troops stationed at that point to hasten to its relief. This being accomplished, he set out again with all speed toward the fort, intending to reach it, and penetrate through its swarm of surrounding savages in advance of the relief, for the purpose of encouraging the garrison to persevere in its defenseuntil their arrival.
At St. Mary's River he came to an encampment of Ohio militia, with whom was Thomas Worthington, of Chillicothe (afterward governor of Ohio), then on the frontier as Indian commissioner, to whom Oliver communicated his intention of entering the fort, or of perishing in the attempt. Worthington had been originally opposed to the policy of declaring war; but now that it had been commenced, was zealous for its vigorous prosecution; yet this did not save him from the taunt of an ill-bred brother officer, who accused him of a want of patriotism. Being a high spirited man of the keenest sense of honor, this accusation stung Worthington to the quick, and he felt eager to embark in any enterprise, howsoever desperate, to show the unjustness of the charge, and his willingness to peril his all for his country. In him Oliver found a zealous confederate, notwithstanding old experienced frontiersmen endeavored to dissuade him from the dangerous undertaking. Unitedly, they induced sixty-eight of the militia, and sixteen Shawnee Indians, to accompany them.
View of old Fort Wayne.
[Copied from E. P. Abbott's Map of the city of Fort Wayne, published In 1855.]
On the second day's march, thirty-six of the party, consulting their fears, secretly deserted their companions, and returned to the main body. The remainder continued their route, and a sunset in their camp, heard the evening gun from the fort, through an intervening forest of twenty-four miles. As the reduced party was not strong enough to encounter the enemy, Worthington was very reluctantly induced to remain at this point with his men, while Oliver, with three friendly Indians, pushed on. Being well armed and mounted, they started at day-break the next morning, proceeding with great caution. When within five miles of the fort, they perceived holes which the Indians had dug on each side of the road for concealment, and to cut off all who should approach toward the place. Upon observing these, they abandoned the main road, struck off across the country, and reached the Maumee one and a half miles below the fort. Tying their horses in a thicket, they stole cautiously along through the forest to ascertain if the Indians had obtained possession. Oliver at length discovered, with feelings of joy, the American flag waving above the fort; but not deeming even this as conclusive, he approached on the east side so near as not only to discern the blue uniform of a sentinel, but to recognize in his countenance that of an acquaintance.
Having satisfied himself on this point, they returned, remounted their horses, and taking the main road, moved rapidly onward. Upon reaching the gate of the esplanade, they found it locked, and were thus compelled to pass down the river bank, and then ascend it at the, northern gate. They were favored in doing so, by the withdrawal of the savages from this point, in carrying out a plan, then on the point of consummation, for taking the fort by an ingenious stratagem.
For several days previous to this time, the hostile chiefs, under a flag of truce, had been holding intercourse with the garrison. In their interviews with Captain Rhea, that officer had shown such a spirit of timidity, that they felt persuaded that
The plan, thus arranged, was in the act of being carried into execution, at the moment when Oliver and his companions reached the gate. Their safe arrival at that particular moment, may be justly considered as miraculous. One hour sooner or one hour later would have, no doubt, been inevitable destruction both to himself and escort; the parties of Indians who had kept close guard, for eight days previand escort; the parties of Indians who had kept close guard, for eight days previous, upon the roads and passes in different directions, having all, at that moment, been called in to aid in carrying the fort.
Winnemac, Five Medals, and three other hostile chiefs, bearing the flag of truce, under which they were to gain admittance to carry out their treacherous intentions, were surprised by suddenly meeting at the gate Oliver and his companions. Coming from different directions, and screened by the angles of the fort, they were not visible to each other until that moment. Winnemac showed great chagrin, uttered an ejaculation of disappointment, and hastily returning to the Indian camp, informed the chiefs and warriors that the stratagem was defeated.
Oliver immediately upon his arrival, wrote a hasty letter to Worthington, describing the situation of the fort, which he sent by the Indians. Luckily their movements were not observed, until they had actually started from the garrison gate. They now put spurs to their horses, and dashed off at full speed. The hostile Indians were instantly in motion to intercept them; the race was a severe and perilous one, but they cleared the enemy's line in safety, and then their loud shout of triumph rose high in the air, and fell like music upon the ears of the beleaguered garrison. They safely delivered the letter, and a few days after Gen. Harrison arrived with reinforcements, the enemy having continued the siege until within a few hours of his arrival, and that too, with such perseverance, that the vigilance of the garrison alone saved them from a general conflagration from the burning arrows of the savages.
* Oliver was postmaster at Cincinnati, in Taylor's administration. He died there a few years since.
In the year 1830, Fort Wayne contained about 100 inhabitants. The old fort was situated in the north-eastern section of the city; the Wabash and Erie Canal passes through a part of its site. The first church erected was built by the Old School Presbyterians; this house is still standing, and is now occupied by the English Lutherans. The Methodists erected the second church, the Baptists the third. The Catholics erected their first house of worship on Calhoun-street, and it is now standing. The first regular Protestant clergyman was Rev. James Chute, from Columbus, Ohio. The Rev. Stephen R. Ball and N. B. Griffiths were the first Methodist preachers; they preached at first in the north-west part of the place, in a brick school-house, long since taken down. This school-house was the first built. Benjamin Cushman and Lewis G. Thompson were among the early physicians. David H. Colerick and Henry P. Cooper were among the early lawyers. The “Fort Wayne Sentinel” was established about 1833, by Noel & Tigar; their office stood at the east end of the canal basin, near or on the spot where the ware-house of Messrs. Hill & Orbison now stands. The “Fort Wayne Weekly Times” was established as a whig journal, in 1840.
Little Turtle
, the celebrated Indian chieftain, died at this place in 1812, his grave, near Fort Wayne, used to be shown to visitors, and was formerlyLittle Turtle
, died at this place, at the age of 65 years. Perhaps there is not left on this continent one of his color so distinguished in council and in war. His disorder was the gout. He died in a camp, because he chose to be in the open air. He met death with great firmness. The agent for Indian affairs had him buried with the honors of war, and other marks of distinction suited to his character.”
The following inscriptions are from monuments in the graveyard at Fort Wayne:
Sacred to the memory of
Col. Alexander Ewing,
one of the bravest soldiers of the Revolution: from the year 1780 to the peace of 1783, he was actively engaged in the Ranger service on the frontiers of New York and Pennsylvania. He was a volunteer at the battle of the Thames, in 1813, and among the first who broke the British lines on that occasion, so glorious to the arms of his country. Died at Fort Wayne, Jan. 1, 1827, aged 60 years.
Sacred to the memory of
Charles W. Ewing,
eldest son of Col. A. and Mrs. C. Ewing, Attorney and Counsellor at Law and President Judge of the 9th Judicial Circuit of the State of Indiana. Died at Fort Wayne, Jan. 9, 1843, aged 45 years.
Samuel Bigger,
late Governor of this State, died Sept. 9, 1846. A patriot and a Christian, he died in the full hope of a glorious immortality.
I would not live always, no, welcome the tomb:
Since Jesus has been there, I dread not its gloom.
Optatum, meum suavium, quod. Te in terram retnuevit, condonato.
Rev. Samuel Brenton,
A.M., died March 29, 1857, aged 46 yrs. 4 mo. 7 da. He was a devoted minister of the M. E. church, and 4 years a member of Congress. He was faithful to his Country, the Church, and his God. Mark the perfect man, and behold the upright, for the end of that man is peace. Rejoice in the Lord always.
Samuel Lewis,
born June 13, 1796, died Jan. 2, 1843. He filled with distinction important civil offices, and was eminent as a Christian.
In memory of
Mary,
wife of
Rev. A. T. Rankin,
Pastor of the First Presbyterian Church, Fort Wayne, Ia., who departed this life July 19, 1841, aged 31 years. Here rests all that can die of a Home Missionary. Her work is done. She sleeps in Jesus.
Rev. Jessie Hoover,
died May 24, 1838, aged 28 years. Organizer of the first German Evangelical Church at Fort Wayne, in the year 1836, and was its faithful pastor till God called him home.
Mir nach spricht Christus unser Held.
Hier ruhe in Gott
Adam H. Wefel,
gob, am 7 Jum 1802, gett am Mal, 1852. Sammt feinen 6 vereits vor ihm entfchlenen kindern harret er nun der seligen und froehlichen Nuferstedung der Todten. Wenn Gotten Mort nicht ware mein Troft gewesen so ware ich vergangen meinen elende.
Lafayette,
the capital of Tippecanoe county, is next to Indianapolis, the most important city of Central Indiana. It is on the Wabash River, and on the Wabash and Erie Canal, with three or four important railroad lines passing through it, and distant 64 miles north-west of Indianapolis. By river, canal, and railroad, it is united with 78 counties of the state. Immediately around the city for miles, lie some of the richest portions of Indiana.
Southern View of Lafayette from near the Valley Railroad.
The Wabash River, canal, etc., pass by the distant buildings which are on the extreme left. Ohio-street, passing the two principal Hotels and the Court House, appears in the central part. The Presbyterian and other churches on the right.
In the heart of the city on the public square, a few years since, while boring for pure water at the depth of 230 feet, a stream of medicinal water was struck. A careful analysis proves it of immense value, and to compare favorably with the most celebrated mineral waters of Europe. It is similar to the Blue Lick Springs of Kentucky, and is a salt sulphur water. It is applicable to numerous diseases, viz: bronchitis, rheumatism, dyspepsia, diseases of the liver, kidneys, sexual organs, and in general for disturbances of the secretive organs or surfaces. The stream is constant and ample for all bathing and drinking purposes.
Seven miles north of Lafayette, on the line of the railroad to Chicago, is the Battle Field of Tippecanoe, where, just before the gray of morning, Nov. 7, 1811, Gen. William Henry Harrison, then governor of the territory of Indiana, at the head of 900 men, principally militia and volunteers, defeated an equal body of Indians under the Prophet, Tenskwautawa, the brother of Tecumseh. The town of the Prophet,
Keth-tip-e-ca-nunk
, corrupted in modern orthography, to
Tippecanoe
, stood over a mile distant, on the Wabash: it extended along the stream from the site of Davis' Ferry to the mouth of the Tippecanoe. Tecumseh was not present in the action, being absent at the south among the Creeks and Seminoles, to unite them with the northern
On the 5th of November, 1811, Gov. Harrison, with about 900 effective troops, composed of 250 of the 4th regiment United States infantry, 130 volunteers, and a body of militia, encamped within 10 miles of the Prophet's town. On the next day, when the army was within five miles of the village, reconnoitering parties of the Indians were seen, but they refused to hold any conversation with the interpreters sent forward by the governor to open a communication with them. When within a mile and a half of the town, a halt was made, for the purpose of encamping for the night. Several of the field officers urged the governor to make an immediate assault on the village; but this he declined, as his instructions from the president were positive, not to attack the Indians, as long as there was a probability of their complying with the demands of government. Upon ascertaining, however, that the ground continued favorable for the disposition of his troops, quite up to the town, he determined to approach still nearer to it. In the meantime, Capt. Dubois, with an interpreter, was sent forward to ascertain whether the Prophet would comply with the terms proposed by the governor. The Indians, however, would make no reply to these inquiries, but endeavored to cut off the messengers from the army. When this fact was reported to the governor, he determined to consider the Indians as enemies, and at once march upon their town. He had proceeded but a short distance, however, before he was met by three Indians, one of them a principal counselor to the Prophet, who stated that they were sent to know why the army was marching upon their town—that the Prophet was desirous of avoiding hostilities—that he had sent a pacific message to Gov. Harrison by the Miami and Potawatomie chiefs, but that those chiefs had unfortunately gone down on the south side of the Wabash, and had thus failed to meet him. Accordingly, a suspension of hostilities was agreed upon, and the terms of peace
Eastern View of the Battle Field of Tippecanoe.
The place of Harrison's encampment is shown by the inclosed fence, within which is six or eight acres of ground. The main body of the savages were in the wheat field in front, this side of the railroad. It was then a marsh, covered with tall grass, in which they were concealed.
* M'Afee's History of the Late War.
† Ibid.
The encampment was about three fourths of a mile from the Prophet's town; and orders were given, in the event of a night attack, for each corps to maintain its position, at all hazards, until relieved or further orders were given to it. The whole army was kept, during the night, in the military position, which is called, lying on their arms. The regular troops lay in their tents, with their accoutrements on, and their arms by their sides. The militia had no tents, but slept with their clothes and pouches on, and their guns under them, to keep them dry. The order of the encampment was the order of battle, for a night attack; and as every man slept opposite to his post in the line, there was nothing for the troops to do, in case of an assault, but bat to rise and take their positions a few steps in the rear of the fires around which they had reposed. The guard of the night consisted of two captain's commands of 42 men, and four non-commissioned officers each; and two subaltern's guards of 20 men and non-commissioned officers each—the whole amounting to about 130 men, under the command of a field officer of the day. The night was dark and cloudy, and after, midnight there was a drizzling rain. It was not anticipated by the governor or his officers, that an attack would be made during the night: it was supposed that if the Indians had intended to act offensively, it would have been done on the march of the army, where situations presented themselves that would have given the Indians a great advantage. Indeed, within three miles of the town, the army had passed over ground so broken and unfavorable to its march, that the position of the troops was necessarily changed. several times, in the course of a mile. The enemy, moreover, had fortified their town with care and great labor, as if they intended to act alone on the defensive. It was a favorite spot with the Indians, having long been the scene of those mysterious rites, performed by their Prophet, and by which they had been taught to believe that it was impregnable to the assaults of the white man.
At four o'clock in the morning of the 7th, Gov. Harrison, according to his practice, had risen, preparatory to the calling up the troops; and was engaged, while drawing on his boots by the fire, in conversation with Gen. Wells, Col. Owen, and Majors-Taylor and Hurst. The orderly-drum had been roused for the purpose of giving the signal for the troops to turn out, when the attack of the Indians suddenly commenced upon the left flank of the camp. The whole army was instantly on its feet; the camp-fires were extinguished; the governor mounted his horse and
Prior to the assault, the Prophet had given assurances to his followers, that in the coming contest, the Great Spirit would render the arms of the Americans unavailing; that their bullets would fall harmless at the feet of the Indians; that the latter should have light in abundance, while the former would be involved in thick darkness. Availing himself of the privilege conferred by his peculiar office, and, perhaps, unwilling in his own person to attest at once the rival powers of a sham prophecy and a real American bullet, he prudently took a position on an adjacent eminence; and, when the action began, he entered upon the performance of certain mystic rites, at the same time singing a war-song. In the course of the engagement, he was informed that his men were falling: he told them to fight on, it would soon be as he had predicted; and then, in louder and wilder strains, his inspiring battle-song was heard commingling with the sharp crack of the rifle and the shrill war-hoop of his brave but deluded followers.
Throughout the action, the Indians manifested more boldness and perseverance than had, perhaps, ever been exhibited by them on any former occasion. This was owing, it is supposed, to the influence of the Prophet, who, by the aid of his incantations, had inspired them with a belief that they would certainly overcome their enemy: the supposition, likewise, that they had taken the governor's army by surprise, doubtless contributed to the desperate character of their assaults. They were commanded by some daring chiefs, and although their spiritual leader was not actually in the battle, he did much to encourage his followers in their gallant attack. Of the force of the Indians engaged, there is no certain account. The ordinary number at the Prophet's town during the preceding summer, was 450; but a few days before the action, they had been joined by all the Kickapoos of the prairie, and by several bands of the Pottawatomies, from the Illinois River, and the St. Joseph's, of Lake Michigan. Their number on the night of the engagement was probably between 800 and 1,000. Some of the Indians who were in the action, subsequently informed the agent at Fort Wayne, that there were more than 1,000 warriors in the battle, and that the number of wounded was unusually great In the precipitation of their retreat, they left 38 on the field; some were buried during the engagement in their town, others, no doubt, died subsequently of their wounds. The whole number of their killed, was probably not less than 50.
Of the army under Gov. Harrison 35 were killed in the action, and 25 died subsequently of their wounds: the total number of killed and wounded was one hundred and eighty-eight.
Both officers and men behaved with much coolness and bravery—qualities which, in an eminent degree, marked the conduct of Gov. Harrison throughout the engagement. The peril to which he was subjected may be inferred from the fact that a ball passed through his stock, slightly bruising his neck; another struck his saddle, and glancing hit his thigh; and a third wounded the horse on which he was riding.
Peace on the frontiers was one of the happy results of this severe and brilliant action. The tribes which had already joined in the confederacy were dismayed; and those which had remained neutral, now decided against it.
During the two succeeding days, the victorious army remained in camp, for the purpose of burying the dead and taking care of the wounded. In the meantime, Col. Wells, with the mounted riflemen, visited the Prophet's town, and found it deserted by all the Indians except one, whose leg had been broken in the action.
* The village had been destroyed in 1791, by Gen. Charles Scott, of Kentucky. In his report of the expedition, he says that “many of the inhabitants of the village were French, and lived in a state of civilization. By the books, letters, and other documents found there, it is evident that the place was in close connection with, and dependent on, Detroit:” the village “consisted of about 70 houses, many of them well finished.” In November, 1812, the village was destroyed the third time in the second expedition of Gen. Hopkins.
The defeated Indians were greatly exasperated with the Prophet: they reproached him in bitter terms for the calamity he had brought upon them, and accused him of the murder of their friends who had fallen in the action. It seems, that after pronouncing some incantations over a certain composition, which he had prepared on the night preceding the action, he assured his followers, that by the power of his art, half of the invading army was already dead, and the other half in a state of distraction; and that the Indians would have little to do but rush into their camp, and complete the work of destruction with their tomahawks.
“You are a liar'
” said one of the surviving Winnebagoes to him, after the action, “for you told us that the white people were dead or crazy, when they were all in their senses and
fought like the devil.
” The Prophet appeared dejected, and sought to excuse himself on the plea that the virtue of his composition had been lost by a circumstance of which he had no knowledge, until after the battle was over. His sacred character, however, was so far forfeited, that the Indians actually bound him with cords, and threatened to put him to death. After leaving the Prophet's town, they marched about 20 miles and encamped on the bank of Wild Cat creek.
With the battle of Tippecanoe, the Prophet lost his popularity and power among the Indians. His magic wand was broken, and the mysterious charm, by means of which he had for years, played upon the superstitious minds of this wild people, scattered through a vast extent of country, was dissipated forever. It was not alone to the character of his prophetic office that he was indebted for his influence over his followers. The position which he maintained in regard to the Indian lands, and the encroachments of the white people upon their hunting grounds, increased his popularity, which was likewise greatly strengthened by the respect and deference with which the politic Tecumseh—the master spirit of his day—uniformly treated him. He had, moreover, nimble wit, quickness of apprehension, much cunning and a captivating eloquence of speech. These qualities fitted him for playing his part with great success; and sustaining for a series of years, the character of one inspired by the Great Spirit. He was, however, rash, presumptuous and deficient in judgment. And no sooner was he left without the sagacious counsel and positive control of Tecumseh, than he foolishly annihilated his own power, and suddenly crushed the grand confederacy upon which he and his brother had expended years of labor, and in the organization of which they had incurred much personal peril and endured great privation.
Tecumseh returned from the south through Missouri, visited the tribes on the Des Moines, and crossing the head-waters of the Illinois, reached the Wabash a few days after the disastrous battle of Tippecanoe. It is believed that he made a strong impression upon all the tribes visited by him in his extended mission; and that he had laid the foundation of numerous accessions to his confederacy. He reached the banks of the Tippecanoe, just in time to witness the dispersion of his followers, the disgrace of his brother, and the final overthrow of the great object of his ambition, a union of all the Indian tribes against the United States: and all this, the result of a disregard to his positive commands. His mortification was extreme; and it is related on good authority, that when he first met the Prophet, he reproached him in bitter terms for having departed from his instructions to preserve peace with the United States at all hazards. The attempt of the Prophet to palliate his own conduct, excited the haughty chieftain still more, and seizing him by the hair and shaking him violently, he threatened to take his life.
[
Explanations.—a
, point from whence the engraved view was drawn;
b b
, line of railroad to Chicago;
c
, position of Battle Ground Institute;
d
, place where the Indians first began the attack;
e e
, front line where occurred the main conflict;
f
, Gen. Harrison's marquee;
h
, point where Maj. Daviess is said to have been slain;
g
, grave of Daviess. The black lines indicate the fence now inclosing the battle ground.]
The highest officers among the Americans slain at Tippecanoe, were two Kentucky majors—Abraham Owen and Joseph Hamilton Daviess. The particulars of the death of Abraham Owen we give below, from Smith's Indiana Sketches:
Battle Field Of Tippecanoe.
Gen. Harrison rode a beautiful fleet gray mare, that he had tied with the saddle on, to a stake near his marquee, to be ready at a moment in case of alarm. Maj. Owen, of Kentucky, rode a bay horse. After the gray mare was hitched, it became necessary, in order to pass a baggage wagon, to remove her and tie her at another place; without the knowledge of Gen. Harrison, the bay horse of Maj. Owen was afterward tied to the post where the gray mare had been.
The moment the alarm was given, every soldier was upon his feet. and the mounted officers in their saddles. Gen. Harrison ran to the post where he left his gray mare; finding Maj. Owen's bay horse he mounted, leaving the gray for the major if he could find her. The general dashed down to where he heard the firing, rode up to Capt. Spencer's position, at the point of the high ground around which the prairies meet; there the enemy had made the first main attack—deadly in effect. There stood the brave ensign John Tipton, and a few of the surviving men of the company.
Gen. Harrison.
“Where is the captain of this company?”
Ensign Tipton.
“Dead.” “Where are the lieutenants?” “Dead.” “Where is the ensign?” “I am here.” “Stand fast, my brave fellow, and I will relieve you in a minute.” Gen. Tipton told me, in after years, that a cooler and braver man, on the field of battle, than Gen. Harrison, never lived. It was a deadly night, the Indians with rifles in their hands, concealed from view, in the darkness of the night, fighting to desperation, under the inspiration of their superstition—being the attacking party, and knowing where their enemy lay, had great advantages, which nothing but the indomitable courage of our brave men could have met and finally repelled. The moment the alarm was given, the brave Maj. Owen ran to his stake, but his horse was gone; near by he found and mounted the gray mare of the General. He was scarcely in the saddle, before he fell mortally wounded, pierced with rifle balls, which were intended, no doubt, for Gen. Harrison, as the Indians knew he rode a gray, and must have been in ambush near. The men and officers that fell that dreadful night were the bravest of the brave.
I visited the common grave of these brave dead, who fell in that terrible battle only a few years since. You will find it in a grove of white oak trees perforated by balls, standing near the center of the inclosed grounds.
Maj. Daviess was a colleague of Henry Clay at the Kentucky bar, where he stood very high as an advocate. At the time of his death he was 37 years of age. It is the tradition that he was killed in the marsh at the point indicated on the map; but from Gen. Harrison's report of the action, we infer that this event took place on high ground, on or near where the railroad line lays; that states that it was during the execution of an order to dislodge
The land on which the battle was fought, was purchased by Gen. John Tipton, and presented to the state of Indiana, as a burial place for his fallen comrades. Tipton was the brave ensign of Capt. Spencer's company, noticed above. His name is most honorably identified with the history of the state. He was a senator in congress from 1832 to 1839, and chairman of the Committe of Indian Affairs, an office for which he was peculiarly well qualified having been, for many years, Indian agent, and well acquainted with most of the Indian tribes. He was a warm hearted man, and possessed uncommon force of character: he was one of the original projectors of the Wabash and Erie Canal, and also one of the founders of Logansport, where he died in 1839.
The reader will notice the building on the right of the view. This is the Battle Ground Institute, under the charge of Rev. E. H. Staley. It is a flourishing seminary for both sexes. A number of small neat houses stand above it, erected, some of them, by the parents of the children, many of the latter brothers and sisters, who here live together, obtaining, away from their homes, a double education, that of house keeping, with that derived from books.
South-eastern view of Madison.
As seen from the Kentucky side of the Ohio, near Milton ferry. The terminus of the Railroad is seen on the left, the Court House on the right.
Madison,
the county seat of Jefferson county, is situated 86 miles S.S.E. from Indianapolis, 50 above Louisville, and 100 below Cincinnati. It is located in a beautiful and picturesque valley, which, with the hills on the Kentucky shore and those of Indiana, and the bold curve and broad sweep of the Ohio River, affords a panorama rarely equaled. The valley in which the city is situated, is nearly three miles long, which is inclosed on the north by steep and rugged hills about 400 feet high. This place has very superior advantages for trade, and the navigation is usually open in ordinary seasons. Great quantities of breadstuffs are exported, and a large amount of capital is employed in founderies, machine shops, etc., and the establishments for
The site of Madison was originally a dense growth of poplars, beech and walnut, and the present landing was covered with a growth of cottonwood, the water's edge being fringed with willows. The original proprietors were John Paul and Jonathan Lyon. A few families had settled here on Mount Glad, now a part of North Madison, in 1807-8. Col. John Vawter first came to Madison in 1806, and moved into the country in March, 1807; he held the first public sale of lots in Feb., 1811. The first white child born in Madison was Dawson Blackmore, Jr. His father came here from western Pennsylvania, in the fall of 1809, and located himself in a framed log-house, now standing in Walnut-street. The first sermon preached in Madison is said to have been delivered in Mr. Blackmore's house, by a Methodist itinerant preacher. The first regular house of worship was built on East-street, on the site of the present St. John's church.
The following are the names of a number of the earlier settlers of Madison, previous to 1820: Milton Stapp, Jeremiah Sullivan, C. P. J. Arvin, Daniel Wilson, Thomas Brown, Nicholas D. Grover, Geo. W. Leonard, Moody Park, Victor King, Chas. W. Basnett, William Brown, D. Blackmore, sen., D. Blackmore, jr., Silas Ritchie, John Sering, John G. Sering, William G. Wharton, W. J. McClure, John Ritchie, S. C. Stephens, Howard Watts, John Haney, Rufus Gale, William Randall, Gamaliel Taylor, E. G. Whitney, M. Shannon, Edward Shannon, Jesse D. Bright, Michael G. Bright, David Bright, Jacob Wildman, George Wagoner, Andrew Woodfill, Alexander Washer. Williamson Dunn, Wm. McKee Dunn, James Vawter, Jno. Hunt, Simeon Hunt, Cornelius Valle, Geo. Shbrt, and David McClure.
One of the first sermons ever preached in Madison, was by that celebrated and eccentric itinerant,
Lorenzo Dow
, who “held forth” standing on a poplar log, near the site of the court house. He was born in Coventry, Connecticut, in —, and died at Washington City, in —, aged — years, where his grave is now to be seen. He traveled through the United States from fifteen to twenty times, visiting the wilderness parts, often preaching where a sermon was never heard before. Occasionally he went to Canada, and made three voyages to England and Ireland, where, as elsewhere, he drew crowds around him, attracted by his long flowing beard and hair, singularly wild demeanor, and pungency of speech. During the thirty years of his public life, he must have traveled nearly two hundred thousand miles.
Pickett, in his History of Alabama, avers that he was the earliest Protestant preacher in that state; says he: “Down to this period (in 1803), no Protestant preacher had ever raised his voice, to remind the Tombigbee and Tensaw settlers of their duty to the MOST HIGH. Hundreds, born and bred in the wilderness, and now adult men and women, had never even seen a preacher. The mysterious and eccentric Lorenzo Dow, one day, suddenly appeared at the Boat Yard. He came from Georgia, across the Creek nation, encountering its dangers almost alone. He proclaimed the truths of the gospel here, to a large audience, crossed over the Alabama, and preached two sermons to the ‘Bigbee settlers,’ and went from thence to the Natchez settlements, where he also exhorted the people to ‘turn from the error of their ways.’ He then visited the Cumberland region and Kentucky, and came back to the Tombigbee, filling his appointments to the very day. Again
When Dow was in Indiana, Judge O. H. Smith had the pleasure of listening to a discourse from him, some items of which he has thus preserved among his Sketches: “In the year 1819,” states the judge, “I was one of a congregation assembled in the woods back of Rising Sun, anxiously awaiting the arrival of Lorenzo Dow. Time passed away, we had all become impatient, when in the distance we saw him approaching at a rapid rate through the trees on his pacing pony. He rode up to the log on which I was sitting, threw the reins over the neck of the pony, and stepped upon the log, took off his hat, his hair parted in the middle of his head, and flowing on either side to his shoulders, his beard resting on his breast. In a minute, at the top of his voice, he said:
South-western view of New Albany.
The view shows the appearance of the city, as seen from the high bluff which rises immediately south of it. The Ohio River appears on the right, with Portland, a station for steamboats, on the Kentucky side of the Ohio, at the foot of the Canal around the Falls, three miles from Louisville.
‘Behold, I come quickly, and my reward is with me.’ My subject is repentance. We sing, ‘while the lamp holds out to burn, the vilest sinner may return.’ That idea has done much harm, and should be received with many grains of allowance. There are cases where it would be easier for a camel to go through the eye of a needle than for a man to repent unto salvation. Let me illustrate: Do you suppose that the man among you who went out last fall to kill his deer and bear for winter meat, and instead killed his neighbor's hogs, salted them down, and is
now living on the meat, can repent while it is unpaid for?
I tell you nay. Except he restores a just compensation, his attempt at repentance will be the basest hypocrisy.
Except ye repent, truly ye shall all likewise perish.
’
He preached some thirty minutes. Down he stepped, mounted his pony, and in a few minutes was moving on through the woods at a rapid pace to meet another appointment.”
New Albany,
the county seat of Floyd county, is beautifully situated on the right bank of the Ohio River, at the termination of the New Albany and Salem Railroad, 2 miles below the falls of the Ohio, 3 miles below Louisville, about 140 below Cincinnati, and 100 S. by E. from Indianapolis. The city has wide straight streets, running parallel with the river, and crossed at right angles by others. A large business is done here in building and repairing steamboats, etc. There are also large iron foundries, machine shops and factories. It has two seminaries, a theological college under the patronage of the Presbyterians, and about 10,000 inhabitants.
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the grave yard in New Albany:
“The citizens of
Floyd county
have erected this monument in memory of their
Honored Dead.
Military Monument, New Albany.
‘Glory is the soldier's prize,
The soldier's wealth is honor.’
Here rest the bodies of Francis Bailey, aged 35; Apollos J. Stephens, 27; Warren B. Robinson, 24; Charles H. Goff, 23; members of the
‘Spencer Greys,’
company A, 2d Reg't Indiana Volunteers, who fell at the battle of BUENA VISTA, Mexico, Feb. 22 and 23, 1847.
‘The soldier is his country's stay
In day and hour of danger.’
‘How sleep the brave who sink to rest,
By all their country's wishes blest?’
John T. Lewis, aged 21; Martin Howard, 18; Joseph Morgan, 19; Laiken Cunningham, 22; members of the ‘Spencer Greys,’ died in the Mexican campaign, 1846-7; also Henry W. Walker, aged 37; Thos. J. Tyler, aged 19, of the same company, who returned home and died of disease contracted in the service.”
Rev. John Matthews,
D.D., Professor of Theology in the Presbyterian Theological Seminary at New Albany, Ia. Born in Guilford county, N. C., Jan. 19, 1772; died in New Albany, May 18, 1848, ætat 76 years and 4 mo. “Blessed are the dead which die in the Lord from henceforth; yea, saith the Spirit, that they may rest from their labors; and their works do follow them.”
Leonidas Shackelford,
of Glasgow, Missouri, born Jan. 7, 1833, died Aug. 5, 1852. In whose memory this monument is erected by his brothers and sisters. Without earthly friends, he died in a strange land, realizing in full a sainted mother's prayer, that a precious Bible which she had given him would be his guide through life, and in death his consolation. Prev. verses 17 to 23.
Logansport
, the county seat of Cass county, is situated on the Wabash River and Canal, at the mouth of Eel River, and is intersected by the Toledo, Wabash and Western and the Cincinnati, Logansport and Chicago Railroads, 70 miles N. by W. from Indianapolis, 166 W. of Toledo, and 42 N.E. from Lafayette. It is at the head of steamboat navigation, and just below the falls, which furnish immense water power, and has a large trade by river, canal and plank roads with the fertile region on every side, the products of which are sent to the eastern and southern markets. Logansport has a city
66
Jeffersonville
is a flourishing town, opposite Louisville, Ky., on the Ohio River, which is here about three fourths of a mile wide, 108 miles S. by E. of Indianapolis, and 48 below Madison. It is at the terminus of the Jeffersonville and Indianapolis Railroad, and on the site of old Fort Steuben, and is beautifully situated just above the falls in the Ohio, which descend 22 feet in two miles, producing a rapid current, which, in time, by the immense water power it affords, will, if a canal is made around the falls on the Indiana side, render this a large and prosperous manufacturing city. Jeffersonville has great facilities for doing business, and is said to possess the best landing place on the Ohio River. The state penitentiary is located here. Population about 3,500.
Lawrencebury
, city and county seat of Dearborn, is on the Ohio, 22 miles below Cincinnati, and two miles below the mouth of the Big Miami, the line of separation between Ohio and Indiana. The Ohio and Mississippi, and Indianapolis and Cincinnati Railroads, intersect at this point. Population about 4,000.
A few miles below Lawrenceburg, is a small stream emptying into the Ohio, known as Laughery's creek. It derived its name from the calamitous defeat of Col. Archibald Laughery by the Indians. This took place in the spring of 1782, and was the most disastrous military event that ever occurred upon the soil of Indiana. The annexed account is from Day's Hist. Collections, of Pa.:
Col. Laughery had been requested, by Col. Clark, to raise 100 volunteers in the county of Westmoreland, Pa., to aid him against the Ohio Indians. The company was raised principally at his own expense, and he also provided the outfit and munitions for the expedition. In this he was aided by the late Robert Orr, by birth an Irishman, but who manifested a deep and generous interest in his adopted country. Mr. Orr was one of the officers, and next in command under Col. Laughery.
There were 107 men in the expedition, who proceeded in boats down the Ohio, to meet Gen. Clark, at the Falls. At the mouth of a creek in the south-eastern part of Indiana, that bears the name of the commander, the boats were attacked by the Indians. Of the whole detachment, not one escaped. Col. Laughery was killed, and most of his officers. Capt. Orr, who commanded a company, had his arm broken with a ball. The wounded, who were unable to travel, were dispatched with the tomahawk, and the few who escaped with their lives, were driven through the wilderness to Sandusky. Capt. Orr was taken to Detroit, where he lay in the hospital for several months, and, with the remnant who lived, was exchanged, in the spring of 1783.
South Bend
, the county seat of St. Joseph, is on the Michigan Southern and Northern Indiana Railroad, 85 miles easterly from Chicago; also on St. Joseph River, which furnishes, by means of a dam at this point, a vast water power. It has some 30 stores, 6 churches, 2 Catholic Female Seminaries, and in 1860, 4,013 inhabitants.
Michigan City
is on Lake Michigan, in La Porte county, 54 miles by railroad from Chicago, and 154 from Indianapolis. It has communication by the Michigan Central, and New Albany and Salem Railroads, and the lake with all parts of the country. It is noted for the manufacture of railroad cars, and has about 4,000 inhabitants.
Laporte
, the county seat of Laporte county, in the north-western part of the state, is at the junction of the Cincinnati, Peru and Chicago, with the
Bloomington
, the county seat of Monroe county, is on the line of the New Albany and Salem Railroad, 96 miles north from New Albany. It was laid out in 1818, by Benjamin Park, agent for the county commissioners. Its public buildings are substantial, and the public square pleasantly ornamented with shade trees and shrubbery. It is noted, as a place of education. It has two female seminaries, and is the seat of the
State University
, founded in 1835.
Greencastle
, capital of the neighboring county of Putnam, 40 miles by railroad west of Indianapolis, is the seat of the Indiana
Asbury University
, founded in 1837, and which is not excelled by any institution in the state. Unusual attention is given in this vicinity to the cultivation of fruit, the apple, pear, peach and grape, for which the soil is well adapted.
Crawfordsville
, the county seat of Montgomery, which adjoins Putnam on the north, is on the New Albany and Salem Railroad, and 45 miles north-west of Indianapolis. It is in a rich country, and is the seat of
Wabash College
, founded in 1835, an institution of excellent repute. Bloomington, Greencastle, and Crawfordsville, have each about 2,500 inhabitants.
University of Indiana, Bloomington.
Corydon
, the county seat of Harrison county, in southern Indiana, is a town of about 1,200 inhabitants. In 1813, the seat of government of the Territory of Indiana was removed from Vincennes to this place. When, in 1816, Indiana was erected into a state, Corydon was made the capital, and so remained until 1825, when it was removed to Indianapolis. The court house here, built of stone, was the original state house, and the edifice in which was formed the first constitution of Indiana.
Vevay
, the county seat of Switzerland county, is a small town on the Ohio River, about half way between Cincinnati and Louisville. The place is of note, from its having been one of the first settlements in the state, and for the attempt made there to cultivate the grape for the purpose of manufacturing wine.
It was laid out in the year 1813, by John Francis Denfour and Daniel Denfour, emigrants from Switzerland, who, in remembrance of their native town, gave it its present name. Part of the land was entered by John James Denfour and his associates, in the beginning of the present century, and an extended credit given, by an act of congress, with a view of encouraging the culture of the grape.
The Old State House.
Situated in Corydon, the original capital of Indiana.
In the south part of Indiana are some curiosities of nature. Eleven miles from Corydon, and in Crawford county, is the
Wyandot Cave
, which is considered by many to equal the celebrated Mammoth Cave of Kentucky. It has been explored for several miles, and found to contain magnificent chambers and galleries, rich in stalactites and other lime concretions. Two other curiosities, which are near the line of the Ohio and Mississippi railroad, have only come into notice since the construction of that work. The
Jug Rock
is at Shoal Station, in Martin county, 150 miles west of Cincinnati, and derives its name from its resemblance in form to a homely and useful utensil. It is a lone standing pillar of sandstone, of about seventy feet in hight, in the midst of a forest of beach and sugar trees. It is an unusual object for this region; but in the valley of the Upper Missouri and on the high table lands farther west such formations abound. Lieut. Simpson, in his explorations in New Mexico, found at one spot “high sandstone rocks of almost every shape and character imaginable. There were to be seen at once, domes, pillars, turrets, pinnacles, spires, castles, vases, tables, pitched roofs, and a number of other objects of a well defined figurative character.”
The Jug Rock,
About seventy feet high.
Near Mitchell's Station, in Lawrence county, 28 miles east of the above, is
Hamer's Mill Stream Cave.
Water flows out at all seasons sufficient to furnish motive power for a saw mill, grist mill, and a distillery located about a quarter of a mile from the opening. It is owned by Mr. Hugh Hamer. The source of the stream has never been ascertained. At the time of the construction of the railroad, two of the surveyors attempted to explore it to its source. They entered it in a canoe, and were absent two days and the intervening night, penetrating it, as they judged, about nine miles, and without reaching its termination. No particular change was found in the dimensions of the cavity, excepting an occasional opening out into large chambers. Such an exploration in certain seasons would be perilous. Often, after a hard shower of rain, the water suddenly rises and pours out in such a volume as to completely fill up the mouth of the cavern, issuing from it like water from the pipe of a fire engine. In 1856, Capt. John Pope, of the corps of U. S. topographical engineers, discovered a similar curiosity near the base of the Rocky Mountains, in about lat. 32 deg. and long. 105 deg., which he named
Phantom River.
A stream of some 60 feet in width came out of one cave, ran 150 feet in daylight, and then plunging into another by a cascade of a great but unknown depth, was seen no more.
Hamer's Mill Stream Cave.
It has been explored about nine miles in a canoe. It furnishes motive power for two mills and a distellery.
Beside the towns described, Indiana contains numerous others of from 1,500 to 2,500 each. These are mostly county seats, some of them on railroad lines, and places of active business. They are,
Attica
, in FountainAurora
, in Dearborn county;
Cambridge City
, in Wayne county;
Cannelton
, in Perry county;
Columbus
, in Bartholomew county;
Connersville
, in Fayette county;
Delphi
, in Carroll county;
Franklin
, in Johnson county;
Goshen
, in Elkhart county;
Greensburg
, in Decatur county;
Huntington
, in Huntington county;
Mishawaka
, in St. Joseph county;
Mt. Vernon
, in Posey county;
Muncie
, in Delaware county;
Peru
, in Miami county;
Princeton
, in Gibson county;
Rising Sun
, in Ohio county;
Rockville
, in Parke county; and
Shelbyville
, in Shelby county.
Arms of Illinois.
The
name of this state,
Illinois
, is partly Indian and partly French: it signifies
real men
, and was originally applied to the Indians who dwelt on the banks of the river of that name. For a long period the great tract of territory lying N.W. of the Ohio, was termed the “Illinois country.” The first white men of whom we have any authentic knowledge, who traversed any part within the present limits of Illinois, were
James Marquette
, a Catholic missionary, and
M. Joliet
, both Frenchmen from Canada. This was in 1673. The next were
Robert de la Salle
, a young Frenchman of noble family, and
Louis Hennepin
, a Franciscan friar. After leaving Chicago, La Salle and his companions proceeded down Illinois River, and reached Peoria Jan. 4, 1680.
The first settlements in Illinois were made by the French, at Kaskaskia, Cahokia, and Peoria. It clearly appears that Father Gravier began a mission among the Illinois before 1693, and became the founder of Kaskaskia. At first it was merely a missionary station, and the inhabitants of the village consisted entirely of natives; the other villages, Peoria and Cahokia, seem at first to have been of the same kind.
At the beginning of the eighteenth century, the settlements in Illinois are represented to have been in a flourishing condition. Kaskaskia had become a considerable town before any great progress had been made on the lower Mississippi. The French writers of this period give glowing descriptions of the beauty, fertility, and mineral wealth of the country, and to add to its attractions, a monastery of Jesuits was established at Kaskaskia.
From the beginning to the middle of the eighteenth century, but little is related. Disputes arose, between England and France, respecting the boundaries of their different colonies, which, unhappily, had never been sufficiently defined. The French, anticipating a struggle for the preservation of their American possessions, strengthened their fortifications on the Great Lakes, on the Ohio, the Wabash, the Illinois, and in other parts of the valley of
The following descriptions of the French settlements at this period, and there were none other in Illinois, we find in Perkins' Annals, the edition by J. M. Peck. It is there copied from “The Present State of the European Settlements on the Mississippi, by Capt. Philip Pitman,” published in London in 1770:
“The village of Notre Dame de Cascasquias (Kaskaskia), is by far the most considerable settlement in the country of the Illinois, as well from its number of inhabitants, as from its advantageous situation.
Mons. Paget was the first who introduced water-mills in this country, and he constructed a very fine one on the River Cascasquias, which was both for grinding corn and sawing boards. It lies about one mile from the village. The mill proved fatal to him, being killed as he was working it, with two negroes, by a party of the Cherokees, in the year 1764.
The principal buildings are, the church and the Jesuits' house, which has a small chapel adjoining it; these, as well as some other houses in the village, are built of stone, and, considering this part of the world, make a very good appearance. The Jesuits' plantation consisted of two hundred and forty arpents (a little over 200 acres) of cultivated land, a very good stock of cattle, and a brewery; which was sold by the French commandant, after the country was ceded to the English, for the crown, in consequence of the suppression of the order.
Mons. Beauvais was the purchaser, who is the richest of the English subjects in this country; he keeps eighty slaves; he furnishes eighty-six thousand weight of flour to the king's magazine, which was only a part of the harvest he reaped in one year.
Sixty-five families reside in this village, besides merchants, other casual people, and slaves. The fort, which was burnt down in October, 1766, stood on the summit of a high rock opposite the village, and on the opposite side of the (Kaskaskia) river. It was an oblongular quadrangle, of which the exterior polygon measured two hundred and ninety by two hundred and fifty-one feet. It was built of very thick squared timber, and dove-tailed at the angles. An officer and twenty soldiers are quartered in the village. The officer governs the inhabitants, under the direction of the commandant at Chartres. Here also are two companies of militia.”
Prairie du Rocher, or “La Prairie de Roches,” as Captain Pitman has it, is next described—
“As about seventeen (fourteen) miles from Cascasquias. It is a small village, consisting of twelve dwelling-houses, all of which are inhabited by as many families. Here is a little chapel, formerly a chapel of ease to the church at Fort Chartres. The inhabitants here are very industrious, and raise a great deal of corn and every kind of stock The village is two miles from Fort Chartres. [This means
Little Village
, which was a mile, or more, nearer than the fort.] It takes its name from its situation, being built under a rock that runs parallel with the River Mississippi at a league distance, for forty miles up. Here is a company of militia, the captain of which regulates the police of the village.”
Saint Phillippe is a small village about five miles from Fort Chartres, on the road to Kaoquias. There are about sixteen houses and a small church standing; all of the inhabitants, except the captain of the militia, deserted it in 1765, and went to the French side (Missouri). The captain of the militia has about twenty slaves, a good stock of cattle, and a water-mill for corn and planks. This village stands in a very fine meadow, about one mile from the Mississippi.”
“he village of Saint Famille de Kaoquias,” so Pitman writes, “is generally
The inhabitants of this place depend more on hunting, and their Indian trade, than on agriculture, as they scarcely raise corn enough for their own consumption; they have a great plenty of poultry, and good stocks of horned cattle.
The mission of St. Sulpice had a very fine plantation here, and an excellent house built on it. They sold this estate and a very good mill for corn and planks, to a Frenchman who chose to remain under the English government. They also disposed of thirty negroes and a good stock of cattle to different people in the country, and returned to France in 1764. What is called the fort is a small house standing in the center of the village. It differs nothing from the other houses, except in being one of the poorest. It was formerly inclosed with high pallisades, but these were torn down and burnt. Indeed, a fort at this place could be of but little use.”
The conquest of Illinois from the British, in 1778, by Gen. Geo. Rogers Clark, when he took possession of the forts of Kaskaskia, Cahokia, and St. Vincent, the latter now the Vincennes of Indiana, was one of the most romantic episodes in our western history. It made known the fertile plains of Illinois to the people of the Atlantic states, exciting an emigration to the banks of the Mississippi. Some of those in that expedition afterward were among the first emigrants. Prior to this, the only settlements in Illinois, were the old French villages of Kaskaskia, Cahokia, Peoria, Prairie du Rocher, Fort Chartres, Fort Massac, Village a Cote, Prairie du Pont, and a few families scattered along the Wabash and Illinois. In October, 1778, the general assembly of Virginia passed an act to organize the county of Illinois. In 1784, Virginia ceded her claims to the territory north-west of the Ohio to the United States. This, by the ordinance of 1787, was erected into the
North-west Territory.
Still the Illinois country remained without any organized government until March, 1790, when Gov. St. Clair organized St. Clair county.
The first settlement in Illinois by emigrants from the United States, was in 1781, near Bellefontaine, Monroe county, in the south-western part of the state. It was made by James Moore, with his family, accompanied by James Garrison, Robert Kidd, Shadrach Bond, and Larken Rutherford. Their route out was through the wilderness from Virginia to the Ohio, then down that stream to the Mississippi, and up the latter to Kaskaskia. Part of them settled in the American bottom, near Harrisonville. This station afterward became known as the block-house fort. Other parties joined them and the settlements increased. They, however, suffered much from the Indians until Wayne's treaty, in 1795, brought peace. Many were killed, others taken captives, and often while laboring in the field they were obliged to carry their rifles, and also often at night compelled to keep guard.
In 1800, Illinois formed part of a separate territory by the name of
Indiana
, in conjunction with the state now bearing that name. A second division took place in 1809, and the western portion of Indiana was formed into a separate territory bearing the name of Illinois. In 1818, Illinois was erected into a separate state. Hon. Ninian Edwards, chief justice of Kentucky, was chosen governor, and Nathaniel Pope, Esq., secretary. Since that period it has rapidly gone forward, increasing in population, wealth and power.
In the year 1812, Gen. Hull, who surrendered Detroit into the hands of the British, directed Capt. Heald, who commanded Fort Dearborn, at Chicago, to distribute his stores to the Indians, and retire to Fort Wayne. Not having full confidence in the Indians, he threw the powder into the well and wasted the whisky. As these were the articles they most wanted, they were so exasperated that they fell upon the garrison, after they had proceeded two miles from the fort, and massacred 41 of them, with 2 women and 12 children, the latter tomahawked in a wagon by one young savage.
In 1840, the Mormons being driven out of Missouri, located a city on the east bank of the Mississippi River, which they called
Nauvoo.
They had extraordinary privileges granted them by the state. But here, as elsewhere, numerous difficulties arose between them and the inhabitants in the vicinity. The military were called out by the governor to suppress the disorders which arose. Joseph Smith, the Mormon prophet and leader, with his brother Hiram, were imprisoned in a jail in Carthage. On June 27, 1844, they were both killed by a mob, which broke into their place of confinement. The Mormons, soon after this event, began their movement toward the Rocky Mountains.
At the time of the first settlement of Illinois by the French, it is supposed that within the present limits of the state, there were some eight or nine thousand Indians. They are described, by travelers, as having been remarkably handsome, kind, and well mannered. When the French first came they were feasted by the natives in four courses, the first of hominy, the second of fish, the third of dog, which the Frenchmen appear to have declined, and the whole concluded with roasted buffalo. Few or none of the descendants of the tribes occupying this region, now linger within or around it, their titles having been extinguished from time to time by treaties with the United States government. The white inhabitants were somewhat annoyed by hostile Indians during the war of 1812, and also in 1832, during the prevalence of the “Black Hawk war,” which created much distress and alarm in the northern part of the state.
Illinois is bounded N. by Wisconsin, E. by the southern portion of Lake Michigan, by the state of Indiana, and by the Ohio River, S. by the Ohio River, dividing it from Kentucky, and W. by the Mississippi River, dividing it from Missouri and Iowa. It lies between 37° and 42° 30′ N. lat., and 87° 17′ and 91° 50′ W. long., being about 380 miles in its extreme length from N. to S., and about 200 in its greatest and 140 in its average breadth from E. to W., containing upward of 35,000,000 of acres, of which, in 1850, only 5,175,173 acres were improved, showing an immense capability for increase of population in this very fertile state, which has scarcely any soil but that is capable of cultivation.
The surface is generally level, and it has no mountains. About two thirds of it consists of immense prairies, presenting to view, in some places, immense plains extending as far as the eye can reach, beautifully covered with grass, herbage and flowers. These prairies are generally skirted with wood, near which are settlements. They are also, in many places, interspersed with groups of trees.
The largest prairie in Illinois is denominated the
Grand Prairie.
Under this general name is embraced the country lying between the waters falling into the Mississippi, and those which enter the Wabash Rivers. It does not consist of one vast tract, but is made up of continuous tracts with points of
timber
projecting inward, and long arms of prairie extending between. The
For agricultural purposes, Illinois is unsurpassed by any state in the Union. In some of her river bottoms the rich soil is 25 feet deep. The great American bottom, lying on the Mississippi, 80 miles in length, is of exceeding fertility, and has been cultivated for 100 years without apparent deterioration. Illinois is the greatest corn producing state in the Union; its yield in 1860 was estimated at 100,000,000 of bushels, and the average yield per acre at over 50 bushels.
Illinois is rich in minerals. In the north-west part of the state vast beds of lead ore abound. Bituminous coal is found in almost every county, and may be often obtained without excavation. Iron ore is found in many localities, and copper, zinc, etc. There are salt springs in the southern part of the state from which salt is manufactured, and also medicinal springs in various places. Illinois is most favorably situated for internal commerce. By means of the great rivers on her borders, Lake Michigan at the north-east, and by her magnificent system of railroads, she has great facilities for communication in every direction. Population, in 1810, was 12,282; in 1830, 157,445; in 1850, 851,470; in 1860, 1,691,238.
Chicago,
the most populous commercial city of the north-west, is on the western side of Lake Michigan, about 30 miles northward from its south end, at the mouth of Chicago River, on the margin of a prairie of several miles in width. It is 928 miles from New York, 278 from Detroit, 180 from Galena, 285 from St. Louis, 200 from Cincinnati, and 183 from Springfield. Population, in 1840, 4,853; in 1850, 29,963; and in 1860, 109,420.
The following sketch of the history of Chicago is given in a recent publication:
The first explorers of Lake Michigan, the first white men to pitch their tents on the Chicago prairie, and to haul up their boats upon its river banks and lake shore, were the French Jesuit missionaries and fur traders, under the guidance, of Nicholas Perrot, who was also acting as the agent of the government in the west. This was in the latter part of the year 1669. At that time this territory was in the possession of the Miami tribe of Indians, but subsequently the Pottawatomies crowded back the Miamis, and became the sole possessors, until the year 1795, when they became parties to the treaty with Wayne, by which a tract of land six miles square at the month of the Chicago River, was ceded to the United States—the first extinction of Indian title to the land on which Chicago is built. For nearly a hundred years during the time of the French possession, and after its cession to the English, Chicago has little mention in history.
During this time it is only known from incidental circumstances, that in those dark days of French possession, there was a fort near the mouth of the river, that there were Indian villages near the Calumet and on the Des Plaines, that here were the roving grounds of the Pottawatomies, and that from the head waters of the Illinois to the Chicago River, was the common portage for the trade and transit of the goods and furs between the Indians and the traders, and that the shipping point was from the port at Chicago. The few white men who were there,where a fort formerly stood.
”
Chicago in
1831.
Fort Dearborn is seen in the central part, on a slightly elevated point, on the south side of Chicago River, near the lake shore shown in front.
This may be called the first “land sale,” and which has been the precursor to a business which has entailed to its participants independence and wealth. But little time passed before the proprietors thought best to enter upon active possession, and in 1804 a fort was built upon the spot by government. This fort remained until the year 1816, when it was destroyed by the Indians, at the time of the massacre. This fort was called Fort Dearborn, a name which it retained during its existence. Its location was upon a slightly elevated point on the south side of the river, near the lake shore, and commanded a good view of the lake, the prairie extending to the south, the belt of timber along the south branch and the north branch, and the white sand hills to the north and south, which had for so many years been the sport of the lake winds. Up to the time of the erection of this fort, no white man had made here his home, the Pottawatomie Indians having undisputed sway. After the establishment of the garrison, there gathered here a few families of French Canadians and half-breeds, none of whom possessed more than ordinary intelligence.
The only link in the chain of civilization which admits of identity, existed in the Kinzie family, who came here to reside in 1804, the same year in which the fort was built. John Kinzie, then an Indian trader in the St. Joseph country, Michigan, in that year became the first permanent white resident of Chicago, and to him is due the honor of establishing many of the improvements which have made Chicago what it is. For nearly twenty years he was, with the exception of the military, the only white inhabitant of northern Illinois. During the years from 1804 to 1820, the lake trade was carried on by a small sail vessel, coming in in the
It was a saying with the Indians that “the first white man who settled there was a negro,” by which was meant Jean Baptiste Point-au-Sable, who, in 1796, built the first house in Chicago, which he afterward sold to Le Mai, who subsequently sold it to Mr. Kinzie. In 1812 there were but five houses outside of the fort, all of which, with the exception of that owned by Mr. Kinzie, were destroyed at the time of the massacre. In August, 1816, a treaty was concluded by commissioners appointed by the government, with the various Indian tribes, by which the country between Chicago and the waters of the Illinois River was ceded to the United States on the 4th of July.
In the same year, the troops again returned to their former locality, and a new fort was erected, under the direction of Capt. Hezekiah Bradley, then commander. It stood upon the same ground as the former one, and remained until the summer of 1856, when it was demolished to make room for the increasing amount of business. The reoccupancy of the fort by the troops continued until May, 1823, after which time it was occupied by the Indian agent, and used for the temporary accommodation of families of residents recently arrived. On the 10th of August, 1828, the fort was again occupied by a company of volunteers, and afterward by two companies of regular troops, under the command of Major Fowle and Captain Scott. These last remained until May, 1831, when the fort was given in charge of George W. Dole, as agent for the government.
On the breaking out of the Black Hawk war, in 1832, it was reoccupied by a detachment under Gen. Scott, until the removal of the Indians, in 1836, and, until near the time of its demolition, was held by the government for the occasional use of its army officers, engineers and agents connected with the public works. From 1816 to 1830, Chicago had gained the number of twelve or fifteen houses, with a population of less than one hundred. In 1818, the public square, where now stands the court house, was a pond, on whose banks the Indians had trapped the muskrat, and where the first settlers hunted ducks. This pond had an outlet in a “slough,” as it was then called, which passed over the present site of the Tremont House, entering the river at the end of State-street. Along the shores of the river the wild onion was found in great abundance, to which the Indians gave the name
Chi-ka-jo
, and from which the city doubtless derived its name. In the autumn of 1829, the town of Chicago was laid out, which is the part now known on the maps as the “original town.”
The site of Chicago is low, being but about five feet above the lake, but sufficiently elevated to prevent inundation. “The general direction of the lake shore here, is north and south. The water, except at the mouth of the river, is shoal, and vessels missing the entrance ground, go to pieces in a storm, within 100 rods of the shore. The harbor of Chicago is the river, and nothing more. It is a short, deep, sluggish stream, creeping through the black, fat mud of the prairie, and in some places would hardly be thought worthy of a name; but it makes itself wonderfully useful here. Outside of its mouth a vessel has no protection, nor are there any piers or wharves. The mouth of the river has been docked and dredged out, to afford a more easy entrance; but, after you are once in, it narrows to a mere canal, from 50 to 75 yards in width. The general course of the river, for about three fourths of a mile, is at right angles with the lake shore, and this portion is what is known as the Chicago River. It here divides, or, more properly, two branches unite to form it, coming from opposite directions, and at nearly
The Court House, Chicago.
The view is from the north. The material is of blue lime stone, from Lockport, New York. On the left is the Mechanic's Institute Hall.
Chicago is regularly laid out with streets crossing at right angles, and is adorned with many magnificent buildings of brick and stone, public and
A very elegant building material has recently been brought into use. It is found in great abundance about 20 miles from the city, on the line of the Illinois canal. ”It is a compact lime-stone, of a pale yellow shade, somewhat lighter than the celebrated Caen stone of France, now so fashionable in New York. The grain is so fine that the fracture, or cut surface, resembles that of chalk in texture. It is durable, is easily wrought, and the color is peculiarly pleasing and grateful to the eye. There is another stone of similar texture, of the color of freshly fractured slate, or of the mark made on a slate by a pencil; but it is not so beautiful as the kind before mentioned. It soils readily, and has, at a short distance, the effect of a dirty white. There are also other architectural stones in considerable abundance and variety; but none of great beauty or importance have come under our observation. The Presbyterian Church on Wabash Avenue, is built of a blue, bituminous lime-stone, the pitchy matter of which has exuded and run down the sides, giving the building the appearance of having a partial coat of tar. The general impression it produces, is that of great antiquity; and if this idea could be preserved and harmonized by the early pointed gothic, and a good growth of ivy, the effect would be very fine.”
Until 1856, most of the streets of Chicago were planked, and the buildings then erected were generally without cellars. As a consequence, in the spring of the year, the ground asserted its original character of swamp. The planks actually floated, and as the heavy wagons passed along, the muddy water gushed out on every side. Since 1856, such a grade has been established, that when finished, will raise the entire city from two to five feet.
“There is, with almost every block of buildings, a change of grade, sometimes of one foot, sometimes of three feet, sometimes of five. These ascents or descents are made by steps, or by short, steep, inclined planes of boards, with or without cleats or cross pieces, to prevent slipping, according to the fancy of the adjoining proprietor who erects them. The profile of a Chicago sidewalk would resemble the profile of the Erie canal, where the locks are most plenty. It is one continual succession of ups and downs. The reason of this diversity is, that it was found necessary, at an early period in the history of the place, to raise the grade of the streets. It was afterward found necessary to raise the grade still higher, and again still higher—as each building is erected, its foundation and the sidewalk adjoining have been made to correspond to the grade then last established, and so it will not happen until the city is entirely rebuilt, that the proper grade will be uniformly attained. In the mean time, the present state of things will repress undue curiosity in the streets, and keep fire-engines off the sidewalks, which is a great point gained.”
The process of
raising
of the houses and stores, in Chicago, is one of great interest, literally, a method of digging a great city out of the mud. “Buildings of brick or stone, 150 feet by 200, and five stories high, are raised up several feet by a system of screws, without a crack or the displacement of a single thing. A hotel contracts to be lifted up. In a short time 2,000
Raising a Block of Buildings in Chicago.
The view is engraved from a photograph taken for this work, in April 1860, of a street scene in Chicago. The entire block on the north side of Lake-street, extending from Clark to La Salle-street, having a front of 320 feet—is shown in the process of being raised up four feet and two thirds, by 6,000 screws placed under it; turned, at signals, by a force of 600 man. Most of the stores are 180 feet deep, and five days were consumed in the task.
The most remarkable feat of the kind occurred in Chicago, in the spring of 1860, when an immense block was raised. This is shown in our engraving, and thus described in the Chicago Press and Tribune of the time, under the caption of
“The Great Building Raising.
”
For the past week the marvel and the wonder of our citizens and visitors has been the spectacle of a solid front of first-class business blocks, comprising the entire block on the north side of Lake-street, between Clark and La Salle-streets, a length of 320 feet, being raised about four feet by the almost resistless lifting force of 6,000 screws.
The block comprises 13 first class stores, and a large double marble structure, the Marine Bank Building. Its subdivisions are a five-story marble front block
This absence from annoyance to the merchants and the public is due to the skill with which the contractors have hung the sidewalks to the block itself, and carried up the same with the rise of the building. The block has been raised four feet eight inches, the required hight, in five days, ending with Friday last, and the masons are now busy putting in the permanent supports. The entire work will occupy about four weeks.
An estimate from a reliable source makes the entire weight thus raised to be about 35,000 tuns. So carefully has it been done, that not a pane of glass has been broken, nor a crack in masonry appeared. The internal order of the block has prevailed undisturbed.
The process of raising, as indicated above, is by the screw, at 6,000 of which, three inches in diameter and of three eighths thread, 600 men have been employed, each man in charge of from eight to ten screws. A complete system of signals was kept in operation, and by these the workmen passed, each through his series, giving each screw a quarter turn, then returning to repeat the same. Five days labor saw the immense weight rise through four feet eight inches, to where it now stands on temporary supports, rapidly being replaced by permanent foundations. The work, as it stands, is worth going miles to see, and has drawn the admiration of thousands within the past week.
The bridges of Chicago are among the curiosities of the place. The numerous branches of the river require a large number of bridges. The river being navigable, and but little below the level of the streets, compels all of these to be made draw bridges. These are hung in the middle, and turn on a pivot, the motive power being two men standing there with a cross-bar. The operation of turning a bridge, occupies about two minutes. While the process is going on, a closely packed row of vehicles, sometimes, accumulates of a quarter of a mile in length. Policemen are stationed at either end, to prevent persons from driving, jumping, or being pushed into the water.
South-west View of the Railroad Depot, Grain Houses, Chicago.
The Illinois Central Passenger, and the freight depot, etc., are seen in the central part. Sturges and Buckingham's grain houses standing on the lake shore, appear on the right; each of which will contain 750,000 bushels of grain; enough, it is estimated, to feed the entire population of the city for five years; 225,000 bushels can be received and stored in each of them in a single day.
The manufacturing establishments of Chicago are numerous, consisting of
67
The imports of Chicago, in 1858, a year of general depression, were $91,000,000, and the exports $83,000,000 in value, equal to one quarter of the whole foreign commerce of the United States. The tunnage was 67,000 tuns, seven eighths of which was in sailing crafts, and the remainder by steamers.
The grain trade of Chicago is, perhaps, the greatest of any place in the world, averaging, at present, about 30,000,000 of bushels yearly. The grain houses are all situated on the bank of the river and its branches, with railroad tracks running in the rear, so that a train of cars loaded with grain may be standing opposite one end of a large elevating warehouse, being emptied by elevators, at the rate of from 6 to 8,000 bushels per hour, while at the other end the same grain may be running into a couple of propellers, and be on its way to Buffalo, Montreal, and other places within six or seven hours.
The Illinois Central Railroad grain warehouses can discharge 12 cars loaded with grain, and also load two vessels at once, at the rate of 24,000 bushels per hour; or receive from 24 cars at once, at the rate of 8,000 bushels per hour. With the present conveniences, it is estimated that in every 10 hours half a million of bushels of grain can be handled.
The university of Chicago, a well endowed institution, originated in 1854, in a generous donation from the Hon. Stephen A. Douglass of 10 acres, comprising part of a beautiful grove, adjacent to the southern limits of the city. It has, in all its departments, about 200 students. John C Burroughs, D.D., is president.
The most thrilling event in the history of Illinois, was the
“massacre at Chicago,”
in the last war with Great Britain. There were then but five houses outside of the fort, at this point, then the trading station of John Kinzie, “the Father of Chicago.” The garrison numbered about 75 men, many of them old and inefficient soldiers. The officers in command, were Capt. Heald, Lieut. Helm, and Ensign Ronan, the latter a very young man, high spirited and honorable.
On Aug. 7, 1812, Catfish, a distinguished Pottawatomie chief, arrived from Detroit, bringing dispatches from Gen. Hull, giving orders to Capt. Heald to evacuate the fort and distribute all the United States property, in the fort and factory, to the Indians, and then retire to Fort Wayne, on the site of the city of that name in Indiana.
These ill timed, and as it proved afterward, fatal orders of Hull, were obeyed, so far as to evacuate the fort; but even this was done by Heald, in spite of the remonstrances of his officers, who were satisfied of the evil designs of the Indians. On the 12th, a council was held with the Indians, at which Capt. Heald informed them of his intention to distribute among them the goods stored in the factory, together with the ammunition and provisions of the garrison. On the next day the goods were disposed of as promised; but fearing the Indians might make a bad use of liquor and ammunition, Heald gave orders for their destruction. During the night the contents of the liquor barrels were poured into the river, and the powder thrown into the well. This coming to the knowledge of the Indians, exasperated them to a high degree, as they prized these articles more than all the rest.
The 15th of August was the day fixed for leaving the post. The day previous, Capt. Wells, a relative of Capt. Heald, arrived with an escort of 15 friendly Miami Indians from Fort Wayne. He had heard of the orders for the evacuation of the fort, and realizing the danger of the garrison incumbered with the women and children, marching through the territory of the hostile Pottawatomies, hastened to dissuade his relative from leaving the fort. But he arrived too late, steps had been taken, which made it as equally dangerous to remain.
“The fatal morning of the 15th, at length arrived. All things were in readiness, and nine o'clock was the hour named for starting. Mr. Kinzie had volunteered to accompany the troops in their march, and had entrusted his family to the care of some friendly Indians, who had promised to convey them in a boat around the head of Lake Michigan to a point on the St. Joseph's River; there to be joined by the troops, should the prosecution of their march be permitted them. Early in the morning Mr. Kinzie received a message from To-pee-nee-bee, a chief of the St. Joseph's band, informing him that mischief was intended by the Pottawatomies who had engaged to escort the detachment; and urging him to relinquish his design of accompanying the troops by land, promising him that the boat containing himself and family, should be permitted to pass in safety to St. Joseph's.
Mr. Kinzie declined, according to this proposal, as he believed that his presence might operate as a restraint upon the fury of the savages, so warmly were the greater part of them attached to himself and his family. The party in the boat consisted of Mrs. Kinzie and her four younger children, their nurse Grutte, a clerk of Mr. Kinzie's, two servants and the boatmen, beside the two Indians who acted as their protectors. The boat started, but had scarcely reached the mouth of the river, which, it will be recollected, was here half a mile below the fort, when another messenger from
To-pee-nee-bee
arrived, to detain them where they were. In breathless expectation sat the wife and mother. She was a woman of uncommon energy and strength of character, yet her heart died within her as she folded her arms around her helpless infants, and gazed upon the march of her husband and eldest child to certain destruction.
As the troops left the fort, the band struck up the
Dead March.
On they came in military array, but with solemn mien. Capt. Wells took the lead at the head of his little band of Miamis. He had blackened his face before leaving the garrison, in token of his impending fate. They took their route along the lake shore. When they reached the point where commenced a range of sand hills, intervening between the prairie and the beach, the escort of Pottawatomies, in number about 500, kept the level of the prairie, instead of continuing along the beach with the Americans and Miamis. They had marched about half a mile south of the present site of the Round House of the Illinois Central Railroad, when Capt. Wells, who had kept somewhat in advance with his Miamis, came riding furiously back. ‘They are about to attack us,’ should he; ‘form, instantly, and charge upon them.’ Scarcely were the words uttered, when a volley was showered from among the sand hills. The troops were hastily brought into line, and
“After we had left the bank, the firing became general. The Miamis fled at the outset, Their chief rode up to the Pottawatomies and said: ‘You have deceived the Americans and us. You have done a bad action, and (brandishing his tomahawk) I will be first to head a party of Americans to return and punish your treachery.” So saying, he galloped after his companions, who were now scouring across the prairies.
The troops behaved most gallantly. They were but a handful, but they seemed resolved to sell their lives as dearly as possible. Our horses pranced and bounded, and could hardly be restrained as the balls whistled among them. I drew off a little, and gazed upon my husband and father, who were yet unharmed. I felt that my hour was come, and endeavored to forget those I loved, and prepare my self for my approaching fate.
“While I was thus engaged, the surgeon, Dr. Van Voorhees, came up. He was badly wounded. His horse had been shot under him, and he had received a ball in his leg. Every muscle of his face was quivering with the agony of terror. He said to me—’Do you think they will take our lives? I am badly wounded, but I think not mortally. Perhaps we might purchase our lives by promising them a large reward. Do you think there is
any
chance?’
“‘Dr. Van Voorhees,’ said I, ‘do not let us waste the few moments that yet remain to us, in such vain hopes. Our fate is inevitable. In a few moments we must appear before the bar of God. Let us make what preparation is yet in our power.
“
‘Oh I lean not die,’ exclaimed he, ‘I am not fit to die—if I had but a short time to prepare—death is awful!
’ I pointed to Ensign Ronan, who, though mortally wounded and nearly down, was still fighting, with desperation, on one knee.
“‘Look at that man,’ said I, ‘at least he dies like a soldier.’ ‘Yes,’ replied the unfortunate man, with a convulsive gasp, ‘but he has no terrors of the future—he is an unbeliever!’
“At this moment a young Indian raised his tomahawk at me. By springing aside, I avoided the blow which was intended for my skull, but which alighted on my shoulder. I siezed him around the neck, and while exerting my utmost efforts to get possession of his scalping-knife, which hung in a scabbard over his breast, I was dragged from his grasp by another and an older Indian. The latter bore me, struggling and resisting, toward the lake. Notwithstanding the rapidity with which I was hurried along, I recognized, as I passed them, the lifeless remains of the unfortunate surgeon. Some murderous tomahawk had stretched him upon the very spot where I had last seen him. I was immediately plunged into the water and held there with a forcible hand, notwithstanding my resistance. I soon perceived, however, that the object of my captor was not to drown me, for he held me firmly, in such a position as to place my head above water. This reassured me, and regarding him attentively, I soon recognized, in spite of the paint with which he was disguised,
The Black Partridge.
“When the firing had nearly subsided, my preserver bore me from the water and conducted me up the sand-banks. It was a burning August morning, and walking through the sand in my drenched condition, was inexpressibly painful and fatiguing. I stooped and took off my shoes to free them from the sand, with which they were nearly filled, when a squaw siezed and carried them off, and I was obliged to proceed without them.
“When we had gained the prairie, I was met by my father, who told me that my husband was safe but slightly wounded. They led me gently back toward the Chicago River, along the southern bank of which was the Pottawatomie encampment. At one time I was placed upon a horse without a saddle, but finding the motion insupportable, I sprang off. Supported partly by my kind conductor,
Black Partridge
, and partly by another Indian, Pee-so-tum, who held dangling in
“The wife of Wau-bee-nee-mah, a chief from the Illinois River, was standing near, and seeing my exhausted condition she siezed a kettle, dipped up some water from a stream that flowed near, threw into it some maple sugar, and stirring it up with her hand gave it me to drink. This act of kindness, in the midst of so many many horrors, touched me most sensibly, but my attention was soon diverted to other objects.
“The fort had become a scene of plunder to such as remained after the troops marched out. The cattle had been shot down as they ran at large, and lay dead or dying around. This work of butchery had commenced just as we were leaving the fort. I well remembered a remark of Ensign Ronan, as the firing went on. ‘Such,’ turning to me, I is to be our fate—to be shot down like brutes!’ ‘Well sir’ said the commanding officer, who overheard him, ‘are you afraid?’ ‘No,’ replied the high spirited young man, ‘I can march up to the enemy where you dare not show your face;’ and his subsequent gallant behavior showed this to be no idle boast.
“As the noise of the firing grew gradually less, and the stragglers from the victorious party came dropping in, I received confirmation of what my father had hurriedly communicated in our
rencontre
on the lake shore; namely, that the whites had surrendered after the loss of about two thirds of their number. They had stipulated, through the interpreter, Peresh Leclerc, for the preservation of their lives, and those of the remaining women and children, and for their delivery at some of the British posts, unless ransomed by traders in the Indian country. It appears that the wounded prisoners were not considered as included in the stipulation, and a horrible scene ensued upon their being brought into camp.
“An old squaw, infuriated by the loss of friends, or excited by the sanguinary scenes around her, seemed possessed by a demoniac ferocity. She siezed a stable fork and assaulted one miserable victim, who lay groaning and writhing in the agony of his wounds, aggravated by the scorching beams of the sun. With a delicacy of feeling scarcely to have been expected under such circumstances, Wau-bee-nee-mah stretched a mat across two poles, between me and this dreadful scene. I was thus spared, in some degree, a view of its horrors, although I could not entirely close my ears to the cries of the sufferer. The following night five more of the wounded prisoners were tomahawked.
“The Americans, after their first attack by the Indians, charged upon those who had concealed themselves in a sort of ravine, intervening between the sand banks and the prairie. The latter gathered themselves into a body, and after some hard fighting, in which the number of whites had become reduced to 28, this little band succeeded in breaking through the enemy, and gaining a rising ground, not far from the Oak Woods. The contest now seemed hopeless, and Lieut. Helm sent Peresh Leclerc, a half-breed boy in the service of Mr. Kinzie, who had accompanied the detachment and fought manfully on their side, to propose terms of capitulation. It was stipulated that the lives of all the survivors should be spared, and a ransom permitted as soon as practicable.
“But, in the mean time, a horrible scene had been enacted. One young savage, climbing into the baggage-wagon, containing the children of the white-families, 12 in number, tomahawked the children of the entire group. This was during the engagement near the sand hills. When Capt. Wells, who was fighting near, beheld it, he exclaimed: ‘Is that their game, butchering the women and children?
Then It will kill too!
’ So saying, he turned his horse's head, and started for the Indian camp, near the fort, where had been left their squaws and children.
“Several Indians pursued him as he galloped along. He laid himself flat on the neck of his horse, loading and firing in that position, as he would occasionally turn on his pursurers. his pursurers. At length their balls took effect, killing his horse, and severely wounding himself. At this moment he was met by
Winnemeg
and
Wau-ben-see
, who endeavored to save him from the savages who had now overtaken him. As they supported him along after having disengaged him from his horse, he received his death-blow from another Indian,
Pee-so-tum
, who stubbed him in the back.
“The heroic resolution of one of the soldier's wives deserves to be recorded. She was a Mrs. Corbin, and had, from the first, expressed the determination never to fall into the hands of the savages, believing that their prisoners were always subjected to tortures worse than death. When, therefore, a party came upon her, to make her a prisoner, she fought with desperation, refusing to surrender, although assured, by signs, of safety and kind treatment, and literally suffered herself to be cut to pieces, rather than become their captive.
“There was a Sergeant Holt, who, early in the engagement, received a ball in the neck. Finding himself badly wounded, he gave his sword to his wife, who was on horseback near him, telling her to defend herself—he then made for the lake, to keep out of the way of the balls. Mrs. Holt rode a very fine horse, which the Indians were desirous of possessing, and they therefore attacked her, in hopes of dismounting her. They fought only with the butt-ends of their guns, for their object was not to kill her. She hacked and hewed at their pieces as they were thrust against her, now on this side, now on that. Finally, she broke loose from them, and dashed out into the prairie. The Indians pursued her, shouting, and laughing, and now and then calling out: ‘The brave woman I do not hurt her!’ At length they overtook her again, and while she was engaged with two or three in front, one succeeded in siezing her by the neck behind, and dragging her, although a large and powerful woman, from her horse. Notwithstanding that their guns had been so hacked and injured, and even themselves cut severely, they seemed to regard her only with admiration. They took her to a trader on the Illinois River, by whom she was restored to her friends, after having received every kindness during her captivity.”
“The heart of Capt. Wells was taken out, and cut into pieces, and distributed among the tribes. His mutilated remains remained unburied until the next day, when Billy Caldwell gathered up his head in one place, and mangled body in another, and buried them in the sand. The family of Mr. Kinzie had been taken from the boat to their home, by friendly Indians, and there strictly guarded. Very soon a very hostile party of the Pottawatomie nation arrived from the Wabash, and it required all the skill and bravery of
Black Partridge, Wau-ben-see, Billy Caldwell
(who arrived at a critical moment), and other friendly Indians, to protect them. Runners had been sent by the hostile chiefs to all the Indian villages, to apprise them of the intended evacuation of the fort, and of their plan of attacking the troops. In eager thirst to participate in such a scene of blood, but arrived too late to participate in the massacre. They were infuriated at their disappointment, and sought to glut their vengeance on the wounded and prisoners.
On the third day after the massacre, the family of Mr. Kinzie with the attaches of the establishment, under the care of Francois, a half-breed interpreter, were taken to St. Joseph’s in a boat, where they remained until the following November, under the protection of
To-pee-nee-bee
, and his band. They were then carried to Detroit, under the escort of
Chandonnai
, and a friendly chief by the name of
Kee-po-tah
, and, with their servants, delivered up, as prisoners of war, to the British commanding officer. Of the other prisoners, Capt. Heald and Mrs. Heald were sent across to the lake of St. Joseph’s, the day after the battle. Capt. Heald had received two wounds, and Mrs. Heald seven, the ball of one of which was cut from her arm by Mr. Kinzie, with a pen-knife, after the engagement. Mrs. H. was ransomed on the battle field, by
Chandonnai
, a half-breed from St. Joseph's, for a mule he had just taken, and the promise of ten bottles of whisky. Capt. Heald was taken prisoner by an Indian from the Kankakee, who, seeing the wounded and enfeebled state of Mrs. Heald, generously released his prisoner, that he might accompany his wife.
Lieut. Helm was wounded in the action and taken prisoner; and afterward taken by some friendly Indians to the Au-sable, and from thence to St. Louis, and liberated from captivity through the agency of the late Thomas Forsyth, Esq. Mrs. Helm received a slight wound in the ankle; bad her horse shot from under her; and after passing through the agonizing scenes described, went with the family of Mr. Kinzie to Detroit. The soldiers with their wives and children, were dispersed among the different villages of the Pottowatomies, upon the Illinois, Wabash, Rock
Captain (subsequently Major) Heald, his wife and family, settled in the county of St. Charles, Mo., after the war, about 1817, where he died about 15 years since. He was respected and beloved by his acquaintances. His health was impaired from the wounds he received.”
North-western view of the State House, Springfield.
The engraving shows the appearance of the State Capitol, as seen from the Mayor's office, in Washington-street. The Court House and the Bank building are seen on the left.
Springfield,
the capital of Illinois, is situated near the center of the state, four miles S. from Sangamon River, on the border of a rich and beautiful prairie, 97 miles from St. Louis, 75 N.E. from Alton, and 188 S.W. from Chicago. It is laid out with great regularity on what was formerly an open prairie, the streets being wide and straight, and ornamented with shade trees. The state capitol stands on a square of three acres in the center of the city, which is beautifully adorned with trees, shrubbery and flowers. From the unusual attention given to the cultivation of shrubbery and flowers, Springfield is sometimes fancifully and pleasantly termed the
“Flower City.
” It contains the governor's house, court house, 12 churches, 4 banking houses, the Illinois State University, and about 12,000 inhabitants.
The first settlers of Springfield appear to have been several members of a family by the name of Kelly, who, sometime during the year 1818 or 1819, settled upon the present site of the city; one of them, John Kelly, erected his rude cabin upon the spot where stands the building known as the “Garrett House;” this was the first habitation erected in the city, and perhaps, also, in the county of Sangamon. Another of the Kellys built his cabin westward of the first, and near the spot where stands the residence of Mrs. Torrey; and the third near or upon the spot where A. G. Herndon resides. A second family, by the name of Duggett, settled in that portion of the western part of the city known by the early inhabitants as “Newsonville,” sometime in the early part of 1820; and some half dozen other families were added to the new settlement during the year 1821.
The original name of Springfield was Calhoun. At a special term of the county commissioners’ court, held in April, 1821, at Kelly's house, they designated a certain point in the prairie, near John Kelly's field, on the waters of Spring creek, as a temporary seat of justice for the county, and that “said county seat should be called and known by the name of Springfield.” The first court house and jail was built in the latter part of 1821, at the N.W. corner of Second and Jefferson-streets. The town was surveyed and platted by James C. Stephenson, Esq., and he is said to have received block 21 for his services. Town lots, at that period, could not have been considered very valuable, as tradition says he proposed to give Dr. Merryman one fourth of the block for his pointer dog to which he took a fancy, and which offer was rejected. In 1823, Springfield did not contain more than a dozen log cabins, which were scattered about in the vicinity of where the court house then stood, and the Sangamon River was the boundary line of settlements in the northern part of the state. The site of Springfield was originally an open prairie, destitute of trees or shrubbery: where the state house now stands, was formerly a kind of swamp, where, during the winter, the boys amused themselves in skating.
The first tavern in Springfield was an old-fashioned two story log house, kept by a person named Price, which stood where the residence of Charles Lorsh now stands. The first tavern of much pretension was the old “Indian Queen Hotel,” built by A. G. Herndon. The first store, for the sale of dry goods, in Springfield, was opened by Elijah Iles, now occupied by John Hay.
In 1837, the seat of government for the state was removed from Vandalia to Springfield, and the first session of the legislature here was in the winter of 1839-40. The senate held its session in the old Methodist church, and the house of representatives met in the second Presbyterian church. In 1840, Springfield received a city charter. Benjamin S. Clement was elected the first mayor, and Jas. R. Gray, Joseph Klein, Washington Iles, and Wm. Prentiss, aldermen. The St. Louis, Alton and Chicago Railroad was commenced in Aug., 1850, and was finished from Alton to Springfield, Sept., 1852: from this period Springfield has rapidly advanced in wealth and population.
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the city cemetery:
Ninian Edwards,
chief justice of Ky., 1808; governor Ill. Territory, 1809 to 1818; U. S. senator, 1818 to 1824; governor state of Ill., 1826 to 1830; died July 20, 1833, in the 59th year of his age.
Pascal Paoli Enos,
a native of Windsor, Conn., emigrated to the valley of the Mississippi in 1816; with three others founded the city of Springfield in 1824, and died A.D. 1832, aged sixty-two. The pioneers acknowledge his virtues.
Erected by the Whigs of Springfield in memory of
John Brodie,
who departed this life on the 3d of Aug., 1844, in the 42d year of his age. [Second monument.]—The grave of
John Brodie,
a native of Perth, Scotland, who departed this life on the 3d of Aug., 1844, in the 42d year of his age.
Far from his native isle he lies,
Wrapped in the vestments of the grave.
[In the old graveyard.] Sacred to the memory of Rev.
Jacob M. Early,
a native of Virginia, and for seven years a resident of Springfield, Ill., combining in his character splendid natural endowments, a highly cultivated mind, undaunted moral courage, and the graces of the Christian religion. Eminent in the profession of his choice, and successful in his ministry, he enjoyed a large share of the respect and affections of an extensive and respectable acquaintance. Though called suddenly from life, he met death with a calm and amazing fortitude, in the certain hope of a blissful immortality, through our Lord and Savior Jesus Christ. He was born Feb. 22, 1806, and died March 11, 1838, aged 32 yrs. 18 days.
Springfield is noted as having been the home of Abraham Lincoln, president of the United States. He is a descendant of the pioneers of Kentucky. His grandfather removed from Virginia at an early day, and finally fell on the frontiers beneath the tomahawk of the savage. His son Thomas, and the father of Abraham, traveled about from neighborhood to neighborhood, working as a laborer, until he finally settled in what was then Hardin, now Larue county, Ky., and there, in 1809, was born the subject of this sketch. When in his eighth year, the family removed to Spencer Co., Ind. When Abraham was 21 years of age, they again emigrated to Macon, Illinois. Soon after he engaged as a flat boatman on the Mississippi, then he took charge of a store and a mill at New Salem, and on the outbreak of the Black Hawk war he was chosen captain of a company of volunteers. In 1834 he was, for the first time, elected to the legislature of Illinois, and soon after commenced the study of law. In 1837 he removed to Springfield and entered upon his professional career. In 1840, and again in 1844, he was one of the electors on the Whig ticket in Illinois; in 1846 was elected to congress from the Springfield district. In 1858, he was brought prominently before the public by his memorable senatorial contest with the distinguished Stephen A. Douglass. This was the final point in his career which led to his nomination and subsequent election, by the Republican party, to the Presidency. His history illustrates the power of natural capacity, joined to industry, to overcome poverty and other obstacles in the way of obtaining an education, in a country whose institutions give full freedom to the exercise of all manly faculties.
Residence of Ab'm. Lincoln,
President of the United States.
Kaskaskia
, a small village and the county seat of Randolph county, is on Kaskaskia River, 10 miles above its confluence with the Mississippi, and on a neck of land between them, two miles from the latter, and 142 miles S. of Springfield. It has the distinction of being the oldest town in Illinois, and, perhaps, in the whole western states. It was founded by Father Gravier, a Catholic missionary, some where about the year 1693. It was, at first, merely a missionary station inhabited by the natives. In 1763, when ceded by the French to the English, it contained about 130 families. It was the first capital of the territory, and retained that rank until 1818.
Judge Hall, in his “Sketches of the West,” gives a pleasant picture of the characteristics of the French settlers in this region. Says he:
They made no attempt to acquire land from the Indians, to organize a social system, to introduce municipal regulations, or to establish military defenses; but cheerfully obeyed the priests and the king's officers, and enjoyed the present, without troubling their heads about the future. They seem to have been even careless as to the acquisition of property, and its transmission to their heirs. Finding themselves in a fruitful country, abounding in game, where the necessaries of life could be procured with little labor, where no restraints were imposed by government, and neither tribute nor personal service was exacted, they were content to live in unambitious peace, and comfortable poverty. They took possession of so much of the vacant land around them as they were disposed to till, and no more.march of mind
, or the hand of innovation. Their houses were comfortable, and they reared fruits and flowers; evincing, in this respect, an attention to comfort and luxury, which has not been practiced among the English or American first settlers; but in the accumulation of property, and in all the essentials of industry, they were indolent and improvident, rearing only the bare necessaries of life, and living from generation to generation without change or improvement.
The only new articles which the French adopted, in consequence of their change of residence, were those connected with the fur trade. The few who were engaged in merchandise turned their attention almost exclusively to the traffic with the Indians, while a large number became hunters and boatmen. The
voyageurs, enqagees
, and
couriers des bois
, as they are called, form a peculiar race of men. They were active, sprightly, and remarkably expert in their vocation. With all the vivacity of the French character, they have little of the intemperance and brutal coarseness usually found among the boatmen and mariners. They are patient under fatigue, and endure an astonishing degree of toil and exposure to the weather. Accustomed to live in the open air, they pass through every extreme, and all the sudden vicissitudes of climate, with little apparent inconvenience. Their boats are managed with expertness, and even grace, and their toil enlivened by the song. As hunters, they have roved over the whole of the wide plain of the west, to the Rocky Mountains, sharing the hospitality of the Indians, abiding for long periods, and even permanently, with the tribes, and sometimes seeking their alliance by marriage. As boatmen, they navigate the birch canoe to the sources of the longest rivers, and pass from one river to another, by laboriously carrying the packages of merchandise, and the boat itself, across mountains, or through swamps or woods, so that no obstacle stops their progress. Like the Indian, they can live on game, without condiment or bread; like him they sleep in the open air, or plunge into the water at any season, without injury.
The French had also a fort on the Ohio, about thirty-six miles above the junction of that river with the Mississippi, of which the Indians obtained possession by a singular stratagem. This was just above the site of Metropolis City, and was a mission station as early as 1711. A number of them appeared in the day time on the opposite side of the river, each covered with a bear-skin, and walking on all-fours, and imitating the motions of that animal. The French supposed them to be bears, and a party crossed the river in pursuit of them. The remainder of the troops left their quarters, and resorted to the bank of the river, in front of the garrison, to observe the sport. In the meantime, a large body of Indian warriors, who were concealed in the woods near by, came silently up behind the fort, entered it without opposition, and very few of the French escaped the carnage. They afterward built another fort on the same ground, which they called
Massacre
, in memory of this disastrous event, and which retained the name of
Fort Massac
, after it passed into the hands of the American government.
These paragraphs of Hall are quoted by Peck, in the Western Annals, and to them are appended these additional facts from his own pen:
The style of agriculture in all the French settlements was simple. Both the Spanish and French governments, in forming settlements on the Mississippi, had special regard to convenience of social intercourse, and protection from the Indians. All their settlements were required to be in the form of villages or towns, and lots of a convenient size for a door yard, garden and stable yard, were provided for each family. To each village were granted two tracts of land at convenient distances for
“common fields
” and
“commons.
”
A common field is a tract of land of several hundred acres, inclosed in common by the villagers, each person furnishing his proportion of labor, and each family possessing individual interest in a portion of the field, marked off and bounded from the rest. Ordinances were made to regulate the repairs of fences, the time of excluding cattle in the spring, and the time of gathering the crop and opening the field for the range of cattle in the fall. Each plat of ground in the common field was owned in fee simple by the person to whom granted, subject to sale and conveyance, the same as any landed property.
A common is a tract of land granted to the town for wood and pasturage, in which each
By this arrangement, something like a community system existed in their intercourse. If the head of a family was sick, met with a casualty, or was absent as an
engagee
, his family sustained little inconvenience. His plat in the common field was cultivated by his neighbors, and the crop gathered. A pleasant custom existed in these French villages not thirty years since, and which had come down from the remotest period.
The husband man on his return at evening from his daily toil, was always met by his affectionate
femme
with the friendly kiss, and very commonly with one, perhaps two of the youngest children, to receive the same salutation from
le pere.
This daily interview was at the gate of the door yard, and in view of all the villagers. The simple-hearted people were a happy and contented race. A few traits of these ancient characteristics remain, but most of the descendants of the French are fully Americanized.
The romantic details of the conquest of Kaskaskia, in the war of the Revolution, by the Virginians, under Clark, we take from Monette:
The whole of the Illinois country being, at that time, within the chartered limits of Virginia, Col. George Rogers Clark, an officer of extraordinary genius, who had recently emigrated to Kentucky, with slight aid from the mother state, projected and carried out a secret expedition for the reduction of these posts, the great fountains of Indian massacre.
About the middle of June (1778), Clark, by extraordinary exertions, assembled at the Falls of the Ohio six incomplete companies. From these he selected about 150 frontier men, and descended the Ohio in keel-boats
en route
for Kaskaskia; on their way down they learned, by a messenger, of the alliance of France with the United States. About forty miles from the mouth of the Ohio, having first concealed their boats by sinking them in the river, they commenced their march toward Kaskaskia. Their route was through a pathless wilderness, interspersed with morasses, and almost impassable to any except backwoodsmen. After several days of great fatigue and hardships, they arrived, unperceived, in the evening of the 4th of July, in the vicinity of the town. In the dead of night Clark divided his little force into two divisions. One division took possession of the town while the inhabitants were asleep; with the other Clark in person crossed to the opposite side of the Kaskaskia River, and secured possession of Fort Gage. So little apprehensive was he of danger, that the commandant, Rocheblave, had not even posted a solitary sentinel, and that officer was awakened by the side of his wife to find himself a prisoner of war.
The town, containing about 250 dwellings, was completely surrounded, and all avenues of escape carefully guarded. The British had cunningly impressed the French with a horror of Virginians, representing them as bloodthirsty and cruel in the extreme. Clark took measures, for ultimate good, to increase this feeling. During the night the troops filled the air with war-whoops; every house was entered and the inhabitants disarmed; all intercourse between them was prohibited; the people were ordered not to appear in the streets under the penalty of instant death. The whole town was filled with terror, and the minds of the poor Frenchmen were agitated by the most horrid apprehensions. At last, when hope had nearly vanished, a deputation, headed by Father Gibault, the village priest, obtained permission to wait upon Col. Clark. Surprised as they had been, by the sudden capture of their town, and by such an enemy as their imagination had painted, they were still more so when admitted to his presence. Their clothes were dirty and torn by the briars, and their whole aspect frightful and savage. The priest, in a trembling, subdued tone, said to Clark:
“That the inhabitants expected to be separated, never to meet again on earth, and they begged for permission, through him, to assemble once more in the church, to take a final leave of each other.” Clark, aware that they suspected him of hostility to their religion, carelessly told them, that he had nothing to say against their church; that religion was a matter which the Americans left every one for himself to settle with his God; that the people might assemble in the church, if they wished, but they must not leave the town. Some further conversation was attempted, but Clark, in order that the alarm might be raised to its utmost hight, repelled it with sternness, and told them at once that he had not leisure for further
So great an effect had this leniency of Clark upon them, that, on the evening of the same day, a detachment, under Capt. Bowman, being detached to surprise Cahokia, the Kaskaskians offered to go with it, and secure the submission of their neighbors. This having been accomplished, the two chief posts in Illinois had passed, without bloodshed, from the possession of England into that of Virginia.
But St. Vincennes, upon the Wabash, the most important post in the west, except Detroit, still remained in possession of the enemy. Clark thereupon accepted the offer of Father Gibault, who, in company with another Kaskaskian, proceeded on a mission of peace to St. Vincennes, and by the 1st of August, returned with the intelligence that the inhabitants of that post had taken the oath of allegiance to the American cause.
Clark next established courts, garrisoned three conquered towns; commenced a fort which proved the foundation of the flourishing city of Louisville, and sent the ill-natured Rocheblave a prisoner to Virginia. In October Virginia extended her jurisdiction over the settlements of the Upper Mississippi and the Wabash, by the organization of the county of Illinois, the largest, at that time, in the world. Had it not been for the conquest of the Illinois country by Clark, it would have remained in the possession of England at the close of the Revolution, and continued, like Canada, to the present day, an English province.
Having reduced these English posts to submission, Clark opened negotiations with the Indians, showing throughout that masterly insight into their character that was ever so wonderfully displayed by him in dealing with men, white or red. Among the incidents of his diplomacy is this one, given by Mr. Peck:
A party of Indians, known as Meadow Indians, had come to attend the council with their neighbors. These, by some means, were induced to attempt the murder of the invaders, and tried to obtain an opportunity to commit the crime proposed, by surprising Clark and his officers in their quarters. In this plan they failed, and their purpose was discovered by the sagacity of the French in attendance; when this was done, Clark gave them to the French to deal with as they pleased, but with a hint that some of the leaders would be as well in irons. Thus fettered and foiled, the chiefs were brought daily to the council house, where he whom they proposed to kill, was engaged in forming friendly relations with their red brethren. At length, when, by these means, the futility of their project had been sufficiently impressed upon them, the American commander ordered their irons to be struck off, and in his quiet way, full of scorn, said,
“Every body thinks you ought to die for your treachery upon my life, amidst the sacred deliberations of a council. I had determined to inflict death upon you for your base attempt, and you yourselves must be sensible that you have justly forfeited your lives; but on considering the meanness of watching a bear and catching him asleep, I have found out that you are not warriors,
only old women, and too mean to be killed by the Big Knife.
But,” continued he, “as you ought to be punished for putting on breech cloths like men, they shall be taken away from you, plenty of provisions shall be given for your home,
as women don't know how to hunt, and during your stay you shall be treated in every respect as squaws.
”
These few cutting words concluded, the colonel turned away to converse with others. The children of the prairie, who had looked for anger, not contempt—punishment, not freedom—were unaccountably stirred by this treatment. They took counsel together, and presently a chief came forward with a belt and pipe of peace, which, with proper words, he laid upon the table. The interpreter stood ready to translate the words of friendship, but, with curling lip, the American said he did not wish to hear them, and lifting a sword which lay before him, he shattered the offered pipe, with the cutting expression that
“he did not treat with women.
” The bewildered and overwhelmed Meadow Indians next asked the intercession of other red men, already admitted to friendship, but the only reply was,
“The Big Knife has made no war upon these people; they are of a kind that we shoot like wolves when we meet them in the woods, lest they eat the deer.
”
All this wrought more and more upon the offending tribe; again they took counsel, and then two young men came forward, and, covering their heads with their blankets, sat down before the impenetrable commander; then two chiefs arose, and stated that these young warriors offered their lives as an atonement for the misdoings of their relatives, again they presented the pipe of peace. Silence reigned in the assembly, while the fate of the proffered victims hung in suspense: all watched the countenance of the American leader, who could scarce master the emotion which the incident excited. Still all sat noiseless, nothing heard but the deep breathing of those whose lives thus hung by a thread. Presently, he upon whom all depended, arose, and, approaching the young men, he bade them be uncovered and stand up. They sprang to their feet.
“I am glad to find,” said Clark, warmly, “that there are men among all nations. With you, who alone are fit to be chiefs of your tribe, I am willing to treat; through you I am ready to grant peace to your brothers;
I take you by the hands as chiefs, worthy of being such.
”
Here again the fearless generosity, and the generous fearlessness of Clark, proved, perfectly successful, and while the tribe in question became the allies of America, the fame of the occurrence, which spread far and wide through the north-west, made the name of the white negotiator every where respected.
Jacksonville,
the capital of Morgan county, is on the line of the Great Western Railroad, 34 miles W. from Springfield, and 222 from Chicago. It is beautifully situated in the midst of an undulating and fertile prairie, in the vicinity of Mauvaisterre creek, an affluent of Illinois River. Perhaps no place of its size contains a greater number of churches, charitable institutions, seminaries of learning, and the town has been denominated “the school-house of Illinois.” It contains the Illinois College, which occupies
North-eastern view of Illinois College, Jacksonville.
The Illinois College building is seen in the central part. The structure on the right was formerly used as a chapel, library, etc.; that on the left is a wing remaining of the former College building.
One of the first originators of the Illinois College was the late Rev. John M. Ellis, who was sent by the American Home Missionary Society, to the infant settlements of this state. He early conceived the idea of founding a seminary devoted to the purposes of education, on a somewhat peculiar plan. The first attempt was at Shoal creek, in Bond county, where the people took quite an interest in the undertaking. A committee was afterward appointed by the Presbytery of Missouri (with which the Presbyterian churches of this state were then connected), to consider the subject and make a report, A tour in connection with this subject was taken by Messrs. Ellis and Lippincott, in Jan., 1828. Having visited several places, Saturday night overtook them on the south side of Sandy creek, some four or five miles south from Jacksonville.
Mr. Ellis, in order to fulfill his appointment to preach, continued his journey on Sunday morning. “It was a bright splendid morning. The winter rain had covered every twig and blade of prairie grass with ice, and as the rising sun threw his clear rays athwart the plain, myriads of gems sparkled with living light, and Diamond Grove might almost have been fancied a vast crystal chandelier.” The name of
Diamond Grove
was considerably more ancient than the name or existence of Jacksonville, and was used as a designation of the region around it.
The most convenient place for the people, at that time, to assemble on that Sabbath, was at the house of Judge Leeper, which was about a mile south-east from the public square, in the immediate vicinity of the woodland, which borders on
Mr. Ellis removed his residence from Kaskaskia to Jacksonville, in 1828, and the same year made a report to the society respecting the seminary. About this period seven members of the theological department of Yale College, Conn., seeing the report of Mr. Ellis, pledged themselves to devote their lives to the cause of Christianity in the distant and then wild state of Illinois. The names of these young men were, Theoron M. Grosvenor, Theoron Baldwin, J. M. Sturtevant (now president of the college), J. T. Brooks, Elisha Jenney, William Kirby and Asa Turner. The following is extracted from President Sturtevant's Historical Discourse, delivered in Jacksonville on the Quarter Century Celebration at Illinois College, July 11, 1855, being relative to his first visit to Jacksonville:
“It was on a bright Sabbath morning, the 15th day of November, a little after sunrise, that we came in sight of Jacksonville. It was already called, in the ordinary speech of the people, a beautiful place. I had often heard it called so myself; and beautiful it was, when the bright face of spring was again spread over it, though its beauty was God's work, and not man's. It was at that time little better than a group of log cabins. The prairie was in the sombre brown of autumn, with scarce a tree or shrub to relieve the monotony. To the north-west, however, the view was shut in by an elevation, which a New Englander might almost recognize as a hill. It was crowned with a natural grove. Against the front of the grove was already projected an edifice of brick, which, at that distance, and on such an elevation, made an appearance of considerable dignity and magnificence. The site on which it stood charmed every beholder. It was the south half of what is now our college buildings, then in process of erection. We were most cordially welcomed at the humble, but none the less hospitable, dwelling of Mr. Ellis. * *
Our arrival was expected, and preaching was appointed. At the proper hour we repaired to the place of worship. What would our people say now, if we were to invite them to assemble in such a place for public worship? It was a log school house, some 20 feet square, with a floor of split logs, and seats, so far as there were any of the same, with holes bored in them, and sticks driven in for legs. The chimney was of the style and structure most approved for log-cabins, built out of doors, of logs and sticks, and occupying near half of one side of the room. Such was its condition the first time I met the congregation in that place. Before the next Sabbath, the chimney had either fallen down or been removed, in preparation for an arrangement for warming the house by a stove. For two or three Sabbaths we met there, before this vast opening in one side was again closed up. Desk or pulpit there was none, an awkward circumstance to one just from the school of theology, with no faith in the possibility of preaching without a manuscript before him. Yet, on that day, this was the unlucky predicament of your speaker. On the first Sabbath the audience was small, and a chair was set for the preacher in one corner of the room. On the second Sabbath the house was crowded. The chair was missing. The deficiency of seats had been supplied by bringing in rails from a neighboring fence, and layin them across from one seat to another, and thus covering over the whole area with ‘sittings.’ Those who could not thus be accommodated, crowded around the ample opening where the chimney had been, and heard standing in the open air. There was a state of democratic equality in the congregation, which would have done good to the heart of a thorough-going leveler. The preacher found a seat, where he could, among the congregation; laid his Bible and hymn book on the rail by his side, and rose in his place and addressed the congregation as best he might.
When the day appointed arrived, we repaired to the still unfinished edifice, then a full mile distant from Jacksonville, where we found the room which has ever since been used as a chapel, finished, lacking the desk, the lathing and plastering, and for the most part the seating. The rest of the building was in a still more unfinished condition. Of course its impression was far enough from inviting. Nine pupils presented themselves on that day. They were Alvin M. Dixon, James P.
The first printing office in Jacksonville, was set up by James G. Edwards, of Boston, who afterward removed to Burlington, Iowa. He was the printer and editor of the “Western Observer.” His printing office is the building in the rear of that of Dr. Mavo McLean Reed, a native of South Windsor, Connecticut. Dr. Reed emigrated to Jacksonville in 1830, from South Windsor, with Mr. Elihu Wolcott and his family. Mr. W. traveled with his own team from Connecticut, and arrived here on the 5th of November, having been six weeks on the journey.
About 1,000 Portuguese emigrants reside in Jacksonville and its immediate vicinity, being sent here by a society in New York. They are from the Island of Maderia, and were brought to embrace the Protestant faith, through the instrumentality of Dr. Kally, a Scotchman who went to reside in Maderia for the health of his wife. They have a minister named De Mattoes, who preaches in their native language. They are an industrious and frugal people: most of them have houses of their own, with from two to ten acres of land: a few have 30 or 40 acres. They have additions, occasionally, from their native country.
The following inscriptions are from monuments in Jacksonville; the first from the graveyard in the vicinity of the colleges; the others, in the city graveyard. Col. Hardin (the inscription on whose monument is given below) was much esteemed, and represented this district in congress, from 1843 to 1845. Being at the head of the Illinois militia, he was requested, by the governor of the state, to take the command of a regiment of Illinois volunteers. He at first declined, not fully approving of the Mexican War. But being over-persuaded, and desirous of obtaining the approbation of all classes of his fellow-citizens, he finally consented. Tearing himself from his wife and children, he embarked, with his regiment, for Mexico; but as in many other like instances, it proved with him, that
“The paths of Glory lead but to the Grave.”
In the battle of Buena Vista, Col. Hardin having obtained permission to march upon the enemy at a certain point, was suddenly attacked by an overwhelming force of Mexicans concealed in a ravine, when he fell pierced with many wounds. His remains were found among the slain, brought home and interred with military honors.
Alexander Dunlop,
born May 6th, A.D. 1791, in Fayette Co., Kentucky. Died Nov.10, A.D. 1853. Alex. Dunlop volunteered as a private soldier in the war with England in 1812, and was taken prisoner at Dudley's defeat, May 7, 1813. Commanded a company during the Seminole War, also the detachment that captured St. Marks, April 7, 1818, making prisoners, Arbuthnot and Ambrister, Was Grand Master of the Grand Lodge of Illinois, 1843. Was commissioned Major of the U. S. Army 1816, and was present at the fall of Vera Cruz, March 28, 1847.
Pro patria,
Col. John J. Hardin,
of the 1st Reg. of Ill. volunteers, gloriously fell in the battle of Buena Vista, Feb. 23, 1847. Born in Frankfort, Ky., on the 6th day of January, 1810. Died on the field of battle in the 37th year of his age.
William E. Pierson
died Sept. 30, 1854, on the eve of his departure to the Cherokee Nation, being under appointment as missionary teacher by the A. B. C. F. M., aged 24. He rests in hope.
Bloomington,
beautifully situated on the line of the Illinois Central Railroad, is 61 miles N. E. from Springfield, and 128 S. W. from Chicago. It is regularly laid out on an undulating surface, giving a fine prospect of the fertile prairie lands in the vicinity. The city is generally very neatly built, having the appearance of thrift and prosperity, and some of the buildings near the public square, are magnificent in their appearance. This place contains the State Normal University, the Illinois Wesleyan University, two female seminaries, several banks, 11 churches, various manufacturing establishments, and a population of about 8,000.
North View in Bloomington.
Showing the appearance of the central part of the place, as it is entered from the north; the new Baptist Church, and the Shaffer and Landon Houses, with a portion of the old Court House, are seen on the right of the engraving; the 2d Presbyterian and the Methodist Churches on the left.
The first settler and father of the town, was John Allin, a native of North Carolina, who was raised in Ohio, Kentucky and Indiana, he having lived, in the early period of his life in each of those states. He was at first attracted to this spot by the extreme beauty of the groves. Being acquainted with the geography of the country, he found it was on a direct line from the foot of the rapids of the Illinois, near La Salle to Cairo, also from Chicago to Alton and St. Louis. These considerations induced him to locate himself on this point, believing it was destined to become one of importance. It was for a period called
Blooming Grove
, and from this circumstance Mr. Allin gave itits present name. This section of country appears to have been a favorite spot with the Indians. Mr. A. states that he had seen the signs or remains of 30 Indian villages, within a compass of 30 miles around Bloomington. At the time of his arrival, two tribes, the Kickapoos and Delawares, lived within some 15 or 20 miles. The Kickapoos were 5 or 600; the Delawares were about half that number. The Kickapoos left in 1832.
Mr. Allin came in 1829, and erected his log cabin on the edge of the timber opposite where the First Presbyterian Church now stands, and he set out most of the trees growing in that vicinity. He brought a quantity of goods with him, which he kept in a part of his cabin, and opened the first store in Bloomington. Samuel Durley, a young man born in Kentucky, then nearly of age, acted as clerk. Rev. James Latta, the second settler, built his habitation about 20 rods west from Mr. Allin's; he was a Methodist preacher, universally esteemed by all classes. Mr.
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The first school house was built in 1830. It was constructed of logs, and stood on the edge of the timber, about 20 rods west of Mr. Allin's house. This was the first public building opened for religious meetings. The first seminary was opened by Rev. Lemuel Foster, in 1836; he lived, preached, and kept school in the same building. Mr. Foster was originally from New England and was the first Presbyterian minister, if we except a Mr. McGhor or Gear, who was of feeble constitution, and died very soon after his arrival in the place. The first regular physician was John Anderson, of Kentucky. Henry Miller, from Ohio, kept the first house of entertainment: it was a log house a few rods from Mr. Allin's.
South-eastern view of Peoria.
Showing the appearance of the central part of the city, as it is entered from the eastern side of the Illinois River, by the Railroad and the Peoria bridge. Part of the Railroad bridge is seen on the extreme left; the steamboat landing on the right. The draw or swing of the bridge is represented open for the passage of steamboats.
McLean county, named from Judge McLean, of Ohio, was formed in 1831. At this period there were but 30 or 40 families living within the present limits of the county. Mr. Allin donated the site of the town plot for the county seat. The first court house was a small framed building, which stood on the present public square. Mr. Allin was chosen the first senator from the county in 1836, and continued in the office for four years. Jesse W. Fell, distinguished for his enterprize and public spirit, edited and published the
Bloomington Observer,
the first newspaper printed in the place. It was printed in a small building on West-street, long since removed. The construction of the Central Railroad with the grants of lands by congress on the route, gave an important impulse to the prosperity of the town.
Peoria
is situated on the right or west bank of Illinois River, at the outlet of Peoria Lake, 70 miles north from Springfield, 193 from the mouth of the Illinois, and 151 south-west of Chicago. It is the most populous town on the river, and one of the most important and commercial in the state. The river is navigable for steamboats in all stages of water, and is the channel of
Peoria derived its name from the Peorias, one of the five tribes known as the
Illini
, or Minneway nation. In the autumn of 1679, La Salle and his co-voyagers, from Canada, sailed for this region of country, by way of the lakes to Chicago, where lie established a fort. Leaving a few men for a garrison, he set out with his canoes, nine in number, with three or four men in each, about the 1st of December, for the Illinois and Mississippi Rivers, by ascending St. Joseph River, Michigan, and across the portage to Kan-ka-kee, a main branch of the Illinois River, and then down the river to Peoria. Among La Salle's companions, were M. de Tonti, who acted as historian.
M. de Tonti, in his account of this voyage, says: “The same day (January 4, 1680), we went through a lake formed by the river, about seven leagues long and one broad. The savages call that place
Pimitæuii
, that is, in their tongue, ‘a place where there is abundance of fat beasts.’ After passing through this [Peoria] lake, they came again to the channel of the river, and found themselves between two Indian encampments. This was where the bridges are now built. On perceiving the strangers, the Indians fled; but some were bold enough to return, when one of their chiefs came and inquired who they were, and what were their objects. They were answered by the interpreter, that they were French, and that their object was to make known to them the God of Heaven; to offer them the protection of the King of France, and to trade with them. This was well received, and the calumet, or pipe of peace, was smoked by each party as a token of peace and friendship. A great feast was held, which lasted for several days, attended with dancing, on the part of the natives, and firing or guns and other demonstrations of joy on the part of the French.
M. La Salle erected a fort on the south-eastern bank of the Illinois, which he named
Creve-coeur
[Bursted heart], on account of the grief he felt for the loss of one of his chief trading barks richly laden, and for the mutiny and villainous conduct of some of his companions who first attempted to poison and then desert him. This fort is supposed to have stood on land owned by Mr. Wren, some two or three miles eastward of Peoria. The exact date of the first permanent settlement in Illinois, can not now be ascertained, unless this fort or trading post of Creve-coeur be regarded the first, and there is no evidence that this remained a permanent station.
After the conquest of Canada, the Illinois country fell into the possession of Great Britain. In 1766, the “Quebec Bill” passed the British parliament, which placed Illinois and the North-western Territory under the local administration of Canada. The conquest of the North-western Territory, by Col. George Rogers Clark, in 1778, was the next event of importance. It was brought under the jurisdiction of Virginia, and the country of Illinois was organized. In the year 1796, Peoria was described as “an Indian village, composed of pseudo savages,” made of the native tribe of “Peoriaca Indians,” and “Canadian French,” a few Indian traders and hunters. In Dec., 1812, a Capt. Craig was sent here by Gov. Edwards, to chastise the disorderly Indians and their allies, if any of them might be found at this little French village. Capt. Craig found a pretext for burning this French town, which had been laid out by them, embracing about one half of the 1st ward of the present city, the center of this village being at or about the entrance of the bridge across the Illinois River. Capt. Craig excused himself for this act, by accusing the French of being in league with the Indians, and by alleging“La ville Mailleit,”
from its founder, Hypolite Mailleit, who moved here in 1778, and commenced the building of this
ville.
In 1830, John Hamlin and John Sharp built the first flouring mill ever erected in this part of the state, on the Kickapoo, or Red Bud creek, about three miles W. of Peoria. The next was erected in Oct, 1837, by Judge Hale and John Easton, about four miles from the city. In the spring of 1834, the only building W. of the corner of Main and Washington-streets was a barn; the entire town then consisted of but seven framed houses, and about thrice that number of log tenements—but during this season about forty houses and stores were erected. About this time, the old jail, standing on the alley between Monroe and Perry-streets, was built, a hewn log building, only 16 feet square and 14 high; the lower story formed for a cell, entered by a trap door from the second story, which was used for a common prison. The court house was a log building on the bank, in which the jurors slept at night on their blankets on the floor. The courts being usually held in warm weather, after the grand jurors received their charge, in court time, the grand jury sat under the shade of a crab apple tree, and the petit jury in a potato hole (that had been partially fdled up) in the vicinity. The venerable Isaac Waters was clerk of the court. His office and dwelling were in a small log cabin, where now stands Toby & Anderson's plow factory. J. L. Bogardus, the postmaster, kept his office in a log cabin near Sweney & Ham's steam mill.
Peoria was incorporated as a town in 1831, and as a city in 1844. The first city officers were Hon. Wm. Hale, mayor; Peter Sweat, Chester Hamlin, Clark Cleaveland, Harvey Lightner, J. L. Knowlton, John Hamlin, Charles Kettelle, and A. P. Bartlett, as aldermen. The Peoria bridge, across the Illinois River, with its abutments, is 2,600 feet long, was finished in 1849, and cost of about $33,000. In 1818 the first canal boat arrived from Lake Michigan. The first steamboat that arrived at Peoria was the “Liberty,” in the month of December, 1829. The first newspaper was the “Illinois Champion,” published by A. S. Buxton and Henry Wolford, March 10, 1834. The first daily paper was called the “Daily Register,” published by Picket & Woodcock; the first number was issued June 28, 1848.
The Methodist Episcopal church, the first formed in the place, was organized in Aug., 1834, by Rev. Zadock Hall, of the Chicago circuit, Dr. Heath, of St. Louis, and Rev. John St. Clair, of Ottawa. Their meetings, at first, were held in the old court house. The first church edifice, the Main-street Presbyterian church, was erected April, 1836. The church, consisting of eight members, was organized in Dec., 1834, by Rev. Romulus Barnes and Rev. Flavel Bescom. St. Jude's church (Episcopal) was organized here in 1834; St. Paul's church building was erected in Sept., 1850. The Baptist church was constituted in Aug., 1836. The Second Presbyterian church was organized Oct., 1840.
The following sketch of a campaign against the Indians, at Peoria and vicinity, in the war of 1812, is from Peck's edition of Perkins' Annals:
During the campaign in the summer and autumn of 1813, all the companies of rangers, from Illinois and Missouri, were under the command of Gen. Howard. Large parties of hostile Indians were known to have collected about Peoria, and scouting parties traversed the district between the Illinois and Mississippi Rivers, then an entire wilderness.
It was from these marauding parties that the frontier settlements of Illinois and Missouri, were harassed. It became an object of no small importance, to penetrate the country over which they ranged, and establish a fort at Peoria, and thus drive them to the northern wilderness. Our authorities for the incidents of the campaign, are a long letter from the honorable John Reynolds, who was a non-commissioned officer in a company of spies, and [the ‘Missouri Gazette,’ of November 6th. The rendezvous for the Illinois regiment was ‘Camp Russell,’ two miles north of Edwardsville. The whole party, when collected, made up of the rangers, volunteers and militia, amounted to about 1,400 men, under the command of Gen.
The Illinois regiment lay encamped on the Piasau, opposite Portage de Sioux, waiting for more troops, for three or four weeks. They then commenced the march, and swam their horses over the Illinois River, about two miles above the mouth. On the high ground in Calhoun county, they had a Skirmish with a party of Indians. The Missouri troops, with Gen. Howard, crossed the Mississippi from Fort Mason, and formed a junction with the Illinois troops. The baggage and men were transported in canoes, and the horses swam the river.
The army marched for a number of days along the Mississippi bottom. On or near the site of Quincy, was a large Sac village, and an encampment, that must have contained a thousand warriors. It appeared to have been deserted but a short period.
The army continued its march near the Mississippi, some distance above the Lower Rapids, and then struck across the prairies for the Illinois River, which they reached below the mouth of Spoon River, and marched to Peoria village. Here was a small stockade, commanded by Col. Nicholas of the United Statee Army. Two days previous the Indians had made an attack on the fort, and wers repulsed. The army, on its march from the Mississippi to the Illinois River, found numerous fresh trails, all passing northward, which indicated that the savages were fleeing in that direction.
Next morning the general marched his troops to the Senatchwine, a short distance above the head of Peoria Lake, where was an old Indian village, called Gomo's village. Here they found the enemy had taken water and ascended the Illinois. This, and two other village, were burnt. Finding no enemy to fight, the army was marched back to Peoria, to assist the regular troops in building Fort Clark, so denominated in memory of the old hero of 1778; and Maj. Christy, with a party, was ordered to ascend the river with two keel boats, duly armed and protected, to the foot of the rapids, and break up any Indian establishments that might be in that quarter. Maj. Boone, with a detachment, was dispatched to scour the country on Spoon River, in the direction of Rock River.
The rangers and militia passed to the east side of the Illinois, cut timber, which they hauled on truck wheels by drag ropes to the lake, and rafted it across. The fort was erected by the regular troops under Capt. Phillips. In preparing the timber, the rangers and militia were engaged about two weeks.
Maj. Christy and the boats returned from the rapids without any discovery, except additional proofs of the alarm and fright of the enemy, and Maj. Boone returned with his force with the same observations.
It was the plan of Gen. Howard to return by a tour through the Rock River valley, but the cold weather set in unusually early. By the middle of October it was intensely cold, the troops had no clothing for a winter campaign, and their horses would, in all probability, fail; the Indians had evidently fled a long distance in the interior, so that, all things considered, he resolved to return the direct route to Camp Russell, where the militia and volunteers were disbanded on the 22d of October. Supplies of provisions, and munitions of wax had been sent to Peoria, in boats, which had reached there a few days previous to the army.
It may seem to those, who delight in tales of fighting and bloodshed, that this expedition was a very insignificant affair. Very few Indians were killed, very little fighting done, but one or two of the army were lost, and yet, as a means of protecting the frontier settlements of these territories, it was most efficient, and
Distant view of Quincy, from the south.
The engraving shows the appearance of Quincy, when first seen an approaching it from the south by the Mississippi. Thayer's Alcohol Factory and Comstock & Co.'s Iron Foundry are seen on the right: the Central Mill and Grain Depot on the left; between these two points is a range of limestone quarries. Just above the Central Mill is the steam and ferry boat landing; also mills, stores, shops, etc. The city is partially seen on the bluff.
Quincy,
the county seat of Adams county and a port of entry, is situated on a beautiful elevation, about 125 feet above the Mississippi, and commands a fine view for five or six miles in each direction. It is 109 miles from Springfield, 268 miles from Chicago, by railroad, and 160 above St. Louis. It contains a large public square, a court house, many beautiful public and private edifices, several banks, a number of extensive flouring and other mills, and manufactories of various kinds, with iron founderies, machine shops, etc. Flour is exported to a great extent, and large quantities of provisions are packed. The bluffs in front of the city may be considered as one vast limestone quarry, from which building stone of a hard and durable quality can be taken and transported to any section of the country, by steamboat and railroad facilities immediately at hand. Five newspapers are printed here, three daily and two in the German language, one of which is daily. Population about 16,000.
The “Quincy English and German Male and Female Seminary,” an incorporated and recently established institution, is designed for a male and female college of the highest grade, for which a large and elegant building is already constructed. The streets cross at right angles, those running N. and S. bear the name of the states of the Union. The present bounds of the city extend two and a half miles each way. The river at the landing is one mile wide. Running along and under the N.W. front of the city, lies a beautiful bay, formerly called “Boston Bay,” from the circumstance of a
Quincy wan originally selected as a town site by John Wood, of the state of New York; for several years he was mayor of this city and lieutenant governor of the state. Mr. Wood built his cabin (18 by 20 feet) in Dec., 1822, without nails or sawed lumber. This building, the first in the place, stood near the foot of Delaware-street, about 15 rods E. of Thayer's alcohol factory. At this time there were only three white inhabitants within the present county of Adams, and these were obliged to go to Atlas, 40 miles distant, to a horse mill for corn meal, their principal breadstuff. In Nov., 1825, the county court ordered a survey and plat of the town to be made, and the lots to be advertised for sale. Henry H. Snow, the clerk, and afterward judge, laid off 230 lots, 99 by 108 feet, reserving a public square in the center of the town. It received its name, Quincy, on the day that John
Quincy
Adams was inaugurated president of the United States.
On the present site of Quincy once stood an old Sac village. At the time the town was surveyed, it was covered with forest trees and hazel bushes, excepting about two acres of prairie ground where the public square was laid out. In the trees in the vicinity of the place, balls were found which had been shot into them fifty or more years before. A few years since an iron ring and staple were found sixty feet below the earth's surface. In the mounds in and about the city are found Indian bones and armor of ancient date.
John Wood, from the state of New York; Henry II. Snow, from New Hampshire; Willard Keyes, from Vermont; Jeremiah Rose and Rufus Brown, from New York; and Ashur Anderson, from Pennsylvania, may be considered as prominent men among the first settlers. Drs. J. N. Ralston, from Kentucky, and S. W. Rogers, from New York, were the first physicians in the order of time. The first house of worship in the place, was erected by the First Congregationalist Society, in 1833 and ′34: Rev. Asa Turner, from Massachusetts, was the first minister. The building is now used as a carriage shop, on Fourth-street, and stands on the spot where it was first erected. The first school was taught, in 1827, by Mr. Mendall, in a log school house, which stood on a lot fronting Hampshire-street, between Second and Third-streets. The first court house and jail was built of logs and was nearly on the spot where the present court house is situated. C. M. Wood, from New York, was the first printer; he printed the first paper, the “Illinois Bounty Land Register,” in 1835, since merged into the Quincy Herald. The first ferry was established by Willard Keyes. The first store was opened, in 1826, by Ashur Anderson, who opened his stock, valued at $1,000 in Brown's Brown~s log tavern. In 1828, Robert Tillson and Charles Holmes established themselves as merchants in a log cabin on the north side of the square, in what was later known as the old “Land Office Hotel.” Afterward, they erected for their accommodation the
first framed
building in the town. It still remains, and has long been known as the old “Post Office Corner.”
“Without access to market, or to mill, the first settlers of Quincy built their houses without nails, brick, or mortar, the principal utensils used being the axe and the auger. The necessaries of life were scarcely attainable, to say nothing of the luxuries. In the cultivation of their land, viz.: 30 acres of corn (without fence) they were obliged to go 30 miles to have their plows sharpened. One man would swing a plowshare on each side of an Indian pony, pile on such other articles of iron as needed repairs, lay in a stock of provisions, mount and set out.”
The number of inhabitants during the first year increased to sixteen; from 1825 to 1835, they increased to five hundred; during all which time they continued to import their bacon and flour. As late as 1832, when the Black Hawk war broke out, the Indians, principally of the Sac and Fox tribes, were very numerous, tile shores of the river being frequently covered with their wigwams, both above and below the town. Coming in from their hunting excursions, they brought large quantities of feathers, deer-skins, moccasins, beeswax, honey, maple sugar, grass floor mats, venison, muskrat and coon-skins.
Alton
is on the E. bank of the Mississippi, 25 miles N. from St. Louis, 3 miles above the mouth of the Missouri River, 20 below the mouth of the Illinois, and 75 miles S.W. of Springfield. The site of the city is quite uneven
North-western view of Alton.
The view is from Prospect-street, taken by Hr. Roeder, and designed by him for a large engraving. On the left of the picture is the Railroad Depot, above which is the Methodist church. On the right is the Penitentiary and Steamboat landing. In the central part appear the Unitarian, Episcopal, Baptist, and Presbyterian churches, and the City Hall. On the right, in the distance, is seen the Missouri shore of the Mississippi, also the mouth of the Missouri River, at its entrance into the “Father of Waters.”
Upper Alton
is located on the high rolling timber land, in the rear of Alton city, two miles from the Mississippi, and has a population of upward of 2,000. The manufacturing business is considerable, particularly coopering, potters' ware, etc. The town was laid out, in 1817, by J. Meacham, from Vermont; several additions have been since made.
Shurtleff College
, named from Dr. Shurtleff, of Boston, is in the limits of the town, and is a flourishing institution under the charge of the Baptist denomination.
The
Monticello Female Seminary
, four miles from Alton, founded by Capt. Benjamin Godfrey, was the first female seminary built in Illinois, and is of high reputation. This institution was opened for pupils in 1838. Rev. Theoron Baldwin had the charge of the first scholars. Capt. Godfrey, its founder, was a sea captain, and has been long distinguished for his public spirit, and the sacrifices which he has made for the public good.
The first resident in Alton appears to have been John Bates, a blacksmith, from
Maj. Charles W. Hunter was a native of Waterford, N. Y., a son of Robert Hunter, of Pennsylvania, a favorite officer under Gen. Wayne, who led the forlorn hope at the storming of Stony Point, in the Revolution, and also accompanied him afterward in the Indian war at the west. Mr. Hunter, in the war of 1812, served as major in the 35th Reg. U. S. infantry. At the close of the war he resigned his commission and went to St. Louis, where he engaged in merchandise and the Indian trade. After his purchase from Col. Easton, he removed his family here, in 1819, and built the first framed house in Alton (now standing), and opened in it the first regular store in the place. He brought his goods here in a barge, which he had used in the New Orleans trade.
The Methodist itinerating preachers appear to have been the first in the order of time who visited Alton; they preached in the school house in Upper Alton, and in private houses. The first Presbyterian church (of stone) was erected by Capt. Godfrey, of the firm of Godfrey, Gilman & Co. Mr. Joseph Meacham, who laid out Upper Alton, was a surveyor from New England. It was laid out on an extensive scale, and lots and blocks were reserved for the support of a free school. The proceeds were accordingly reserved for this purpose, and Alton is entitled to the honor of establishing the
first public free school
in Illinois. The first teacher was Deacon Henry H. Snow, of New Hampshire. Mr. S. has since removed to Quincy, in which place he has held many public offices.
Up to 1827, the “town of Alton” made but very little progress. Upper Alton completely overshadowed it. The location of the penitentiary here gave quite an impulse to the place. In 1831, the Alton Manufacturing Company built the large steam flouring mill, on the river bank, in front of the penitentiary. In 1832, O. M. Adams and Edward Breath started the “Weekly Spectator.” in 1836, the Alton and Springfield road was surveyed by Prof. Mitchell, of Cincinnati. In 1836, Treadway and Parks commenced the publication of the “Weekly Alton Telegraph.” In the spring of this year, Rev. E. P. Lovejoy commenced the publication of a weekly religious newspaper, called the “Alton Observer.” The “Alton Presbytery Reporter” was started in 1845, also the “Courier” newspaper, etc., office, several splendid founderies and machine shops, two German newspapers, and the “Alton National Democrat.” The city of Alton was incorporated in 1837.
Alton is the place where Elijah P. Lovejoy, in 1837, fell while defending his press from an attack by a mob. His remains were interred in the Alton cemetery, a beautiful spot donated by Maj. C. W. Hunter to the city The Anti-Slavery Society of Illinois are taking steps for the erection of a monument from 75 to 100 feet high, which, if constructed, will be a most conspicuous object, for a great distance, for all who are passing up or down the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers.
Rev. E. P. Lovejoy was born Nov. 9, 1802, at Albion, Kennebec county, Maine, then a part of Massachusetts. He was educated at Waterville College, Me., where he graduated with the highest honors of his class. In the latter part of 1827, he went to St. Louis, where he immediately engaged in teaching a school. He. afterward entered the Theological Seminary at Princeton, to prepare himself for the ministry. He returned to St. Louis, and, at the request of his friends, was induced to become the editor of a religious weekly newspaper, and accordingly, on the 22d of Nov., 1833, the first number of the “St. Louis Observer” was issued. In July,
After the removal of the Observer office to Alton, its course on the abolition of slavery gave much offense to a portion of the inhabitants. A meeting was called, Mr. Lovejoy's course was denounced, and on the night of the 21st of August, 1837, a party of some 15 or 20 men broke into the Observer office, and destroyed the press and printing materials. Another press was procured, and stored in the warehouse of Messrs. Godfrey, Gilman & Co., standing on the wharf at Alton. Threats having been given that this press would also be destroyed, Mr. Lovejoy and some of his friends assembled to defend their property. On the night of Nov. 7, 1837, a mob, at first consisting of about 30 individuals, armed, some with stones and some with guns and pistols, formed themselves in a line by the warehouse. Mr. Gilman, one of the 'owners of the building, then asked them
“what they wanted?
” To which they replied,
“the press.
” Mr. G. replied, that, being authorized by the mayor, they would defend their property at the hazard of life. The mob commenced throwing stones, dashing in several windows, and then fired two or three guns into the building. The fire was then returned from within, two or three guns discharged upon the rioters, one, by the name of Bishop, was mortally wounded, and several others injured. This, for a while, checked the mob, but they soon returned with increased numbers and violence. They raised ladders on the warehouse, and kindled a fire on the roof. Mr. Lovejoy and some of the inmates of the building stepped to the door, and while looking around just without the threshold, some one, concealed behind a pile of lumber, fired a double barreled gun, when Mr. Lovejoy was struck with five balls, and expired in a few moments.
The following is the principal part of a communication upon this riot, given by the mayor of Alton to the public, dated Nov. 6, 1837:
For several days past it had been announced and generally believed, that a printing press was hourly expected to be landed at our wharf. It had also been a current rumor that this press was intended for the re-establishment of the “Alton Observer.” The circulation of these rumors produced no small degree of excitement, among those who had taken a decided stand against the abolition sentiments that were understood to have been disseminated through the columns of the “Observer.” Various reports of a threatening character, against the landing of the press, were in circulation, which led the friends of the Observer and its editor to make preparations to defend the press, in case any violence should be offered by those opposed to the publication of that paper. On Tuesday, about 5 o'clock in the morning, I was called from my lodgings and informed that the press had arrived at the wharf, and that my official interference was desired. I immediately repaired to the wharf, and remained there until the press was landed and stored in the warehouse of Messrs. Godfrey, Gilman & Co. There were no indications of violence or resistance on the part of any at that time. The arrival of the “abolition press” (as it was called) was generally known in the early part of that day, which served to rekindle the excitement. Representation was made to the common council of the threatening reports which were in circulation. The common council did not, however, deem it necessary to take any action on the subject. Gentlemen directly interested in protecting the press from mob violence, deemed it expedient to guard the warehouse with men and arms, in readiness to resist violence, should any be offered. During the early part of the night of Tuesday, it was reported through the city, that there were from 30 to 40 armed men on guard within the warehouse.
At 10 o'clock at night, 20 or 30 persons appeared at the south end of the warehouse, and gave some indications of an attack. Mr. W. S. Gilman, from the third story of the warehouse, addressed those without, and urged them to desist, and at the same time informed them that the persons in the warehouse were prepared, and should endeavor to protect their property, and that serious consequences might ensue. Those without demanded the
press
, and said they would not be satisfied until it was destroyed; said they did not wish to injure any person, or other property, but insisted on having the press. To which Mr. G. replied that the press could not be given up. The persons outside then repaired to the north end of the building, and attacked the building by throwing stones, etc., and continued their violence for 15 or 29 minutes, when a gun was fired from one of the windows of the warehouse, and a man named Lyman Bishop was mortally wounded. He was carried to a surgeon's office, and then the mob withdrew and dispersed with the exception of a small number. Upon the first indication of disturbance, I called on the civil officers most convenient, and repaired with all dispatch to the scene of action. By this time the firing from
I was replied to by those within the warehouse that they had assembled there to protect their property against lawless violence, and that they were determined to do so. The mob began again to assemble with increased numbers, and with guns and weapons of different kinds. I addressed the multitude, and commanded them to desist and disperse, to which they listened attentively and respectfully, to no purpose—a rush was now made to the warehouse, with the cry of “fire the house,” “burn them out,” etc. The firing soon became fearful and dangerous between the contending parties—so much so, that the farther interposition on the part of the civil authorities and citizens was believed altogether inadequate, and hazardous in the extreme—no means were at my control, or that of any other officer present, by which the mob could be dispersed, and the loss of life and the shedding of blood prevented. Scenes of the most daring recklessness and infuriated madness followed in quick succession. The building was surrounded and the inmates threatened with extermination and death in the most frightful form imaginable. Every means of escape by flight was cut off. The scene now became one of most appalling and heart-rending interest! Fifteen or twenty citizens, among whom were some of our most worthy and enterprising, were apparently doomed to an unenviable and inevitable death, if the flames continued.
About the time the fire was communicated to the building, Rev. E. P. Lovejoy (late editor of the Observer), received four balls in his breast, near the door of the warehouse, and fell a corpse in a few seconds; two others from the warehouse were wounded. Several persons engaged in the attack were severely wounded; the wounds, however, are not considered dangerous. The contest had been raging for an hour or more, when the persons in the warehouse, by some means, the exact manner it was done I have not been able to ascertain, intimated that they would abandon the house and the press, provided that they were permitted to depart unmolested. The doors were then thrown open, and those within retreated down Front street. Several guns were fired upon them while retreating, and one individual had a narrow escape—a ball passed through his coat near his shoulder.
A large number of persons now rushed into the warehouse, threw the press upon the wharf, where it was broken in pieces and thrown into the river. The fire in the roof of the warehouse was extinguished by a spectator, who deserves great praise for his courageous interference, and but little damage was done by it to the building. No disposition seemed to be manifested to destroy any other property in the warehouse. Without farther attempts at violence the mob now dispersed, and no farther open indications of disorder or violence have been manifested.
The foregoing is stated on what I consider undoubted authority, and mostly from my own personal knowledge.
John M. Krum,
Mayor.
Cairo
is a small town at the south-western extremity of Illinois, at the junction of the Ohio with the Mississippi Rivers, 175 miles below St. Louis. It is also at the southern termination of the famous Illinois Central Railroad, 454 miles distant by the main line of this road to Dunleith, its north-western termination on the Mississippi, and 365 miles distant from Chicago by the Chicago branch of the same.
Cairo, from a very early day, was supposed, from its natural site at the junction of the two great rivers of the west, to be a point where an immense city would eventually arise, hence it has attracted unusual attention from enterprising capitalists as a point promising rich returns for investments in its soil. As soon as Illinois was erected into a state, in 1818, the legislature incorporated “the Bank of Cairo,” which was connected with the project of building a city at this point. Since then two or more successive companies have been formed for this object; one of which has now the enterprise so far advanced that they entertain sanguine calculations of accomplishing the end so long sought amid great discouragements.
A primary obstacle to the success of the scheme is in the natural situation of the surface. For many miles in every direction the country is a low, rich bottom, and as the river here, in seasons of high water, rises fifty feet, the whole region becomes covered with water. To remedy this, an earthen dyke, or levee, some four miles in circuit, has been built around the town, at, it is said, a cost of nearly a million of dollars. This is shown by the map. From this levee projects an embankment like the handle of a dipper—the levee itself around the town answering for the rim — on which is laid the line of the Illinois Central Railroad.
The annexed view shows at one glance, parts of three states—Illinois, Missouri and Kentucky. It was taken on top of the levee, within a few hundred feet of the extreme south-western point of Illinois, which is seen in the distance. The temporary depot of the Central Railroad and the St. Charles' Hotel appear in front. On the right is shown part of the town plat (some eight feet below the top of the levee), the bank of the levee between the spectator and the Mississippi River, before its junction with the Ohio, and the Missouri shore. On the left appears the Kentucky shore, and point where the Ohio, “the beautiful river,” pours itself into the bosom of the Mississippi, “the great father of waters,” as he stretches himself southward in his majestic course to the ocean. The best buildings in Cairo are of brick, mainly stores, and are on the levee. The levee itself resembles an ordinary railroad embankment, and is about 50 feet broad on the surface. The town plat within the levee is regularly laid out and, a system of underground drainage adopted. The appearance
Map Of Cairo And Its Vicinity.
Levee At Cairo.
Junction of the Ohio and Mississippi.
Rockford
, the capital of Winnebago county, is beautifully situated at the rapids of Rock River, on the Galena and Chicago Union Railroad, 92 miles westerly from Chicago. Steamers can come to this place. Great manufacturing facilities are afforded by the immense water power here. Population about 4,000.
Galesburg
is in Knox county, 168 miles south-westerly from Chicago, at the junction of the Chicago and Burlington, Northern Cross, and Peoria and Oquawka Railroads. It is a fine town, and noted as a place of education; Knox College, Knox College for females, and Lombard University are situated here. Population about 6,000.
Freeport
is on a branch of Rock River, at the junction of the Illinois Central with the Galena and Chicago Union Railroad, 120 miles from Chicago. It is quite a manufacturing place, and is one of the largest grain depots in northern Illinois. Population about 5,000.
South-eastern view of Galena, from near the Swing Bridge.
The Steamboat landing is seen in the central part. The Railroad Depot and the Seminary on an elevation in the distance, appear on the right. The Draw or Swing Bridge is represented open, parts of which are seen on the right and left.
Galena,
a flourishing city, and capital of Joe Daviess county, is situated on Fevre River, 6 miles from its entrance into the Mississippi, 1651 above New Orleans, 450 above St. Louis, 160 W.N.W. from Chicago, and 250 N. by W. from Springfield. The city is built principally on the western side of Fevre or Galena River, an arm of the Mississippi, and its site is a steep acclivity, except for a few rods along the river. The streets rise one above
Galena
is a French word, signifying
“lead mine.
” Galena was formerly called
Fevre
River, the French word for
wild bean
, which grew here in great abundance. The city was first settled in 1826, and was then an outpost in the wilderness, about 300 miles from the settlements. The first settlement was begun at Old Town. Col. John Shaw, from the interior of New York, traversed this region from 1809 to 1812, extending his journeys to a point westward of the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers. He was engaged as a spy in this section in the war of 1812, and on one occasion it is said that he outrun three Indians in a chase of nine miles. When he first came to Galena, he found the Indians smelting lead on the town plat. Col. S. was the first one who carried lead to St. Louis for a regular price; this was soon after the close of the war of 1812. He also, it is said, built the first flouring mill in Wisconsin, four miles above
Prairie du Chien.
The first pine lumber sawed in that state was in his mill on Black River.
Andrew C. and Moses Swan, of Pennsylvania, came to Galena in the fall of 1827, by the way of Green Bay and Wisconsin River: one of them kept the first regular tavern. It stood on a site opposite the De Soto House. One of the early visitors at Galena was Ebenezer Brigham, who journeyed from Worcester, Mass., to St. Louis in 1818: the Upper Mississippi country was, at that period almost unknown. Beyond the narrative of PIKE's Expedition, and the vague report of hunters, boatmen, and a few lead diggers about Dubuque, the public possessed but little reliable information. In 1820, Mr. Brigham followed up the river to Galena. This place then consisted of one log cabin, and a second one commenced, which he assisted in completing. The first church erected was by the Presbyterians. The “Miner's Journal” was started here in 1828, by Mr. Jones, who died of the cholera in 1.832. The “Galena North-Western Gazette,” was first issued in 1833, by Mr. H. H. Houghton, from Vermont. It was printed in a log house at the old town, about three fourths of a mile from the levee. The first brick building here is said to have been erected by Capt. D. S. Harris, a native of New York. Capt. H. is also said to have constructed the first steamboat on the Upper Mississippi. It was built in 1838, and called the “Joe Daviess,” in honor of Col. Joe Daviess, who fell at the battle of Tippecanoe.
Galena is on the meridian of Boston, and is considered one of the most healthy locations in the United States. It is the most commodious harbor for steamboats on the Upper Mississippi, and a great amount of tunnage is owned here. Galena owes its growth and importance mainly to the rich mines of lead, with which it is surrounded in every direction. Considerable quantities of copper are found in connection with the lead. About 40,000,000 lbs. of lead, valued at $1,600,000 have been shipped from this place during one season. It is estimated that the lead mines, in this vicinity, are capable of producing 150,000,000 lbs. annually, for ages to come. Mineral from some 8 or 10 places, or localities, in Wisconsin, is brought to Galena, and shipped for New Orleans and other markets. Since the completion of the Illinois Central Railroad, a small portion of lead has been sent eastward by that road. The average price is about thirty dollars per thousand lbs.
Outside of the town is the forbidding and desolate hill country of the lead region. Storms have furrowed the hills in every direction, and the shovels of the miners have dotted the whole surface with unsightly pits, walled around with heaps of limestone and sand, through which the delver has sought the lead. There is no culture around, and the edifices consist of the rude cabin of the miners, and primitive looking smelting furnaces where the lead is prepared for market. A late visitor gives the following description:
The Lead Region
Every hill is spotted with little mounds of yellow earth, and is as full of holes as a worm-eaten cheese. Some winding road at length brings you to the top of one of these bare, bleak hills, and to a larger mound of the same yellowish earth, with which the whole country in sight is mottled. On top of this mound of earth stands a windlass, and a man is winding up tubs full of dirt and rock, which continually increase the pile under his feet. Beneath him, forty, fifty, a hundred feet under ground, is the miner. As we look around on every ridge, see the windlass men, and know that beneath each one a smutty-faced miner is burrowing by the light of a dim candle, let us descend into the mines and see the miners at their work. The windlass-man makes a loop in the end of the rope, into which you put one foot, and, clasping, at the same time, the rope with one hand, slowly you begin to go down; down, it grows darker and darker; a damp, grave-like smell comes up from below, and you grow dizzy with the continual whirling around, until, when you reach the bottom and look up at the one small spot of daylight through which you came down, you start with alarm as, the great mass of rocks and earth over your head seem to be swaying and tumbling in. You draw your breath a little more freely, however, when you perceive that it was only your own dizziness, or the scudding of clouds across the one spot of visible sky, and you take courage to look about you. Two or three dark little passages, from four to six feet high, and about three feet wide, lead off into the murky recesses of the mine; these are called, in mining parlance, drifts. You listen a little while, and there is a dull
“thud! thud!
” comes from each one, and tells of something alive away off in the gloom, and, candle in hand, you start in search of it. You eye the rocky walls and roof uneasily as, half bent, you thread the narrow passage, until, on turning some angle in the drift, you catch a glimpse of the miner, he looks small and dark, and mole-like, as on his knees, and pick in hand, he is prying from a perpendicular crevice in the rock, a lump of mineral as large its his head, and which, by the light of his dim candle, flashes and gleams like a huge carbuncle; or, perhaps, it is a horizontal sheet or vein of mineral, that presents its edge to the miner; it is imbedded in the solid rock, which must be picked and blasted down to get at the mineral. He strikes the rock with his pick, and it rings as though he had struck an anvil. You can conceive how, with that strip of gleaming metal, seeming like a magician's wand, to beckon him on and on, he could gnaw, as it were, his narrow way for hundreds of feet through the rock. But large, indeed, you think, must be his organ of hope, and resolute his perseverance, to do it with no such glittering prize in sight. Yet such is often the case, and many a miner has toiled for years, and in the whole time has discovered scarcely enough mineral to pay for the powder used. Hope, however, in the breast of the miner, has as many lives as a cat, and on no day, in all his toilsome years, could you go down into his dark and crooked hole, a hundred feet from grass and sunshine, but he would tell you that he was
“close to it now,”
in a few days he hoped to strike a lode (pronounced among miners as though it was spelled
leed
), and so a little longer and a little longer, and his life of toil wears away while his work holds him with a fascination equaled only by a gamblers' passion for his cards.
Lodes or veins of mineral in the same vicinity run in the general direction. Those in the vicinity of Galena, run east and west. The crevice which contains the mineral, is usually perpendicular, and from 1 to 20 feet in width, extending from the cap rock, or the first solid rock above the mineral, to uncertain depths below, and is filled with large, loose rocks, and a peculiar red dirt, in which are imbedded masses of mineral. These masses are made up cubes like those formed of crystallization, and many of them as geometrically
There are no certain indications by which the miner can determine the existence of a vein of mineral without sinking a shaft. Several methods are resorted to, however. The linear arrangement of any number of trees that are a little larger than the generality of their neighbors, is considered an indication of an opening underground corresponding to their arrangement. Depressions in the general surface are also favorable signs, and among the older miners there are yet some believers in the mystic power of witch-hazel and the divining rod. In the largest number of cases, however, but little attention is paid to signs other than to have continuous ground—that is, to dig on the skirts of a ridge that is of good width on top, so that any vein that might be discovered would not run out too quickly on the other side of the ridge. On such ground the usual method of search is by suckering, as it is called. The miner digs a dozen or more holes, about six feet deep, and within a stone's throw of each other, and in some one of these he is likely to find a few pieces of mineral, the dip of certain strata of clay then indicates the direction in which he is to continue the search, in which, if he is so successful as to strike a
lode
, his fortune is made; in the other event, he is only the more certain that the
lucky day
is not far off.
North-western view of Rock Island City.
The view shows the appearance of the city as seen from Davenport, on the opposite bank of the Mississippi. The ferry landing appears on the left, the Court House and Presbyterian Churches on the right.
Rock Island City,
and county seat of Rock Island Co., is situated on the Mississippi River, opposite the city of Davenport, 2 miles above the mouth of Rock River, 178 W. by S., from Chicago, and 131 N. N. W. of Springfield. It is at the foot of the Upper Rapids of the Mississippi, which extend nearly 15 miles, and in low stages of water obstruct the passage of loaded vessels. It is a flourishing manufacturing place, at the western terminus of the Chicago and Rock Island Railroad.
It derives its name from an island three miles in length, the southern extremity of which is nearly opposite the town. The principal channel of the river is on the west side of the island, while that on its eastern side has been so dammed as to produce a vast water power above and a good harbor below. The island forms one of the capacious buttresses of the immense railroad
Fort Armstrong, on Rock Island, was erected in 1816, by Lieut. Col. Lawrence, of the United States Army. It was then in the heart of the Indian country, and was the scene of many wild exploits, both before and during the continuance of the “Black Hawk War.” The old chief, Black Hawk, was born in 1768, on Rock River, about three miles from where the fort now stands. From the time this fortification was first constructed, until the close of the war above mentioned, this fort was used as a depot of supplies, etc., and for a long time was commanded by Col. Z. Taylor, afterward president of the United States.
Fort Armstrong, Rock Island.
Col. William Lawrence, the founder of the fort, arrived here May 10, 1816, with the 8th regiment and a company of riflemen. As soon as they had completed their encampment, he employed the soldiers to cut logs and build storehouses for the provisions, and had a bake house and oven put up. This was the first regular building erected at this point.
“The soldiers now set to work to build the fort, which was named
Fort Armstrong.
At this time there lived a large body of Indians in the vicinity, numbering some 10,000, divided in three villages; one on the east side of the river, near the foot of the island called ‘Waupello Village;’ about three miles south on the bank of Rock River, stood the famous village of ‘Black Hawk,’ and on the west side of the river was a small village named after an old brave,
‘Oshkosh.
’ Upon the first arrival of the troops on the Island, the Indians were very much dissatisfied, but the officers took great pains to gain their friendship, by making them many presents, and they soon became reconciled and were most excellent neighbors. During the first summer they would frequently bring over supplies of sweet corn, beans, pumpkins, and such other vegetables as they raised, and present them to Mr. Davenport and the officers, with the remarks that they had raised none, and that they themselves had plenty, invariably refusing to take any pay.”
The following account of the defeat of Maj. Zachary Taylor, at Rock Island, in August 1814, is from the personal narrative of Mr. J. Shaw, of Wisconsin:
About two months after the capture of Prairie du Chien, Maj. Zachary Taylor came up the Mississippi, with 22 fortified boats, each containing an average of about 80 men, under his command. When the expedition arrived near Rock Island, it was discovered that about 4,000 Indians had there collected. The British had erected a false, painted battery, on the left bank of the river, apparently mounted with six twelve-pounders; but in reality they had but two guns with them, one of which was entrusted to the care of the Indians. Mr. Shaw was on board the boat with Mr. Taylor. The battle commenced, and the first ball from the British guns passed completely through the advance boat, on which was Taylor, and he instantly ordered it to be put about; the second ball cut out off the steering oar of the next boat that was advancing, and a strong wind springing up at that moment, this boat drifted over the river to the western bank, a short distance below the present town of Davenport; the men having no oar to steer
69
Fort Armstrong was finally evacuated by the United States troops, May 4, 1836. Col. Davenport had a fine situation near the fort, about half a mile distant. At first he supplied the fort with provisions, and was afterward extensively engaged in the Indian trade. He was murdered, at the age of 62, while alone in his house, on the island, on July 4, 1845, by a baud of robbers. The following account is from “Wilkies' Hist. of Davenport, Past and Present:”
On last Friday afternoon We were witness to a strange and interesting ceremony performed by the Indians, over the remains of Mr. Davenport, who was murdered at his residence on Rock Island, on the 4th inst. Upon preceding to the beautiful spot selected as his last resting place, in the rear of his mansion on Rock Island, we found the war chief and braves of the band of Fox Indians, then encamped in the vicinity of this place, reclining on the grass around his grave, at the head of which was planted a white cedar post, some seven or eight feet in hight.
The ceremony began by two of the braves rising and walking to the post, upon which, with paint, they began to inscribe certain characters, while a third brave, armed with an emblematic war club, after drinking to the health of the deceased from a cup placed at the base of the post, walked three times around the grave, in an opposite direction to the course of the sum, at each revolution delivering a speech with sundry gestures and emphatic motions in the direction of the north-east. When he had ceased, he passed the club to another brave, who went through the same ceremony, passing but once around the grave, and so in succession with each one of the braves. This ceremony, doubtless, would appear pantomimic to one unacquainted with the habits or language of the Indians, but after a full interpretation of their proceedings, they would be found in character with this traditionary people.
In walking around the grave in a contrary direction to the course of the sun, they wished to convey the idea that the ceremony was an
original
one. In their speeches they informed the Great Spirit that Mr. Davenport was their friend, and they wished the Great Spirit to open the door to him, and to take charge of him. The enemies whom they had slain, they called upon to act in capacity of waiters to Mr. Davenport, in the spirit land—they believing that they have unlimited power over the spirits of those whom they have slain in battle. Their gestures toward the north-east, were made in allusion to their great enemies, the Sioux, who live
Following the sign of Pau-tau-co-to, who thus proved himself a warrior of high degree, were placed 20 headless figures, being the number of Sioux that he had slain.
The ceremony of painting the post was followed by a feast, prepared for the occasion, which by them was certainly deemed the most agreeable part of the proceedings. Meats, vegetables, and pies, were served up in such profusion that many armsful of the fragments were carried off—it being a part of the ceremony, which is religiously observed, that all the victuals left upon such an occasion are to be taken to their homes. At a dog feast, which is frequently given by themselves, and to which white men are occasionally invited, the guest is either obliged to eat all that is placed before him, or hire some other person to do so, else it is considered a great breach of hospitality.
Distant view of Nauvoo.
The view shows the appearance of Nauvoo, as it is approached when sailing up the Mississippi.
Nauvoo,
Hancock county, is 103 miles N. W. by W. from Springfield; 52 above Quincy, and 220 above St. Louis. It is laid out on an extensive plan, on one of the most beautiful sites on the river for a city. In consequence of a graceful curve of the Mississippi, it bounds the town on the north-west, west, and south-west. The ground rises gradually from the water to a considerable hight, presenting a smooth and regular . surface, with a broad plain at the summit. The place has now about 1,500 inhabitants, the majority of whom are Germans; there are, also, French and American settlers. The inhabitants have fine gardens, wine is manufactured, and many cattle are raised.
Nauvoo, originally the village of: Commerce, is noted as the site of the Mormon city, founded by Joseph Smith, in 1840. The population, at one time, when under the Mormon rule, was estimated at about 18,000. The dwellings were mostly log cabins, or small frame houses. The great Mormon Temple—the remains of which are still, by far, the most conspicuous object in the place—was 128 feet long, 88 feet wide, and 65 feet high to the cornice,
It is believed that Capt. White erected the first building in the place, a log cabin near the river, about a mile westward of where the temple afterward stood. Mr. Gallard brought out Capt. White; he lived in a two story house near the log cabin. Smith, the Mormon, when he first came to Nauvoo, put up with Mr. G.: he purchased about a mile square of territory. He built the Mansion House near the river. Smith's widow, who is described as amiable and intelligent, married Maj. Bideman. The Mormon Church property was sold to a company of French socialists, about 600 in number, under M. Cabot, for about $20,000. It appears that many of the French are leaving the place, finding that they can do better elsewhere, individually, than by living in common with others.
After the Mormons had been driven from Missouri, the people of Illinois received them with great kindness. When they had established themselves at Nauvoo, the legislature granted them extraordinary powers, and the city laws, in some respects, became superior to those of the state. Under these laws, difficulties ensued. Smith acted as mayor, general of the Nauvoo Legion, keeper of the Nauvoo Hotel, and as their religious prophet, whose will was law. Smith, and some others, forcibly opposed the process issued against them for a riot. The people were aroused at their resistance, and determined that the warrants should be executed. In June 1844, some 3,000 militia from the adjacent country, and bands from Missouri and Iowa, assembled in the vicinity of Nauvoo. Gov. Ford hastened to the spot to prevent blood-shed. On the 24th, Gen. Joseph Smith, the prophet, and his brother, Gen. Hyrum Smith, having received assurances of protection from the governor, surrendered, and went peaceably to prison, at Carthage, to await their trial for treason. On the evening of the 27th, the guard of the jail were surprised by a mob of some 200 men disguised, who overpowered them, broke down the door, rushed into the room of the prisoners, fired at random, severely wounding Taylor, editor of the Nauvoo Neighbor. They finished by killing the two Smiths, after which they returned to their homes.
In Sept. 1845, the old settlers of Hancock county, exasperated by the lawless conduct of the Mormons, determined to drive them from the state, and commenced by burning their farm houses, scattered through the county. The result was, that they were compelled to agree to emigrate beyond the settled parts of the United States. On the 16th of September, 1846, the Anti-Mormons took possession of Nauvoo. Whatever doubts might have then existed abroad, as to the justice of the course pursued by them, it is now evident by the subsequent history of the Mormons, that they are, as a people, governed by doctrines which render them too infamous to dwell in the heart of civilized communities.
Rev. Peter Cartwright, the celebrated pioneer Methodist itinerant of Illinois,
At an early day after they were driven from Missouri and took up their residence in Illinois, it fell to my lot to become acquainted with Joe Smith, personally, and with many of their leading men and professed followers. On a certain occasion I fell in with Joe Smith, and was formally and officially introduced to him in Springfield, then our county town. We soon fell into a free conversation on the subject of religion, and Mormonism in particular. I found him to be a very illiterate and impudent desperado in morals, but, at the same time, he had a vast fund of low cunning.
In the first place, he made his onset on me by flattery, and he laid on the soft sodder thick and fast. He expressed great and almost unbounded pleasure in the high privilege of becoming acquainted with me, one of whom he had heard so many great and good things, and he had no doubt I was one among God's noblest creatures, an honest man. He believed that among all the churches in the world, the Methodist was nearest right, and that, as far as they went, they were right. But they had stopped short by not claiming the gift of tongues, of prophecy, and of miracles, and then quoted a batch of scripture to prove his positions correct. Upon the whole, he did pretty well for clumsy Joe. I gave him rope, as the sailors say, and, indeed, I seemed to lay this flattering unction pleasurably to my soul.
“Indeed,” said Joe, “if the Methodists would only advance a step or two further, they would take the world. We Latter-day Saints are Methodists, as far as they have gone, only we have advanced further, and if you would come in and go with us, we could sweep not only the Methodist Church, but all others, and you would be looked up to as one of the Lord's greatest prophets. You would be honored by countless thousands, and have, of the good things of this world, all that heart could wish.”
I then began to inquire into some of the tenets of the Latter-day Saints. He explained. I criticized his explanations, till, unfortunately, we got into high debate, and he cunningly concluded that his first bait would not take, for he plainly saw I was not to be flattered out of common sense and honesty. The next pass he made at me was to move upon my fears. He said that in all ages of the world, the good and right way was evil spoken of, and that it was an awful thing to fight against God.
“Now,” said he, “if you will go with me to Nauvoo, I will show you many living witnesses that will testify that they were, by the Saints, cured of blindness, lameness, deafness, dumbness, and all the diseases that human flesh is heir to; and I will show you,” said he, “that we have the gift of tongues, and can speak in unknown languages, and that the Saints can drink any deadly poison, and it will not hurt them;” and closed by saying, “the idle stories you hear about us are nothing but sheer persecution.”
I then gave him the following history of an encounter I had at a camp-meeting in Morgan county, some time before, with some of his Mormons, and assured him I could prove all I said by thousands that were present.
The camp-meeting was numerously attended and we had a good and gracious work of religion going on among the people. On Saturday there came some 20 or 30 Mormons to the meeting. During the intermission after the eleven o'clock sermon, they cellected in one corner of the encampment, and began to sing, they sang well. As fast as the people rose from their dinners they drew up to hear the singing, and the scattering crowd drew until a large company surrounded them. I was busy regulating matters connected with the meeting. At length, according, I have no doubt, to a preconcerted plan, an old lady Mormon began to shout, and after shouting a while she swooned away and fell into the arms of her husband. The old man proclaimed that his wife had gone into a trance, and that when she came to she would speak in an unknown tongue, and that he would interpret. This proclamation produced considerable excitement, and the multitude crowded thick around. Presently the old lady arose and began to speak in an unknown tongue, sure enough.
Just then my attention was called to the matter. I saw in one moment that the whole maneuver was intended to bring the Mormons into notice, and break up the good of our meeting. I advanced, instantly, toward the crowd, and asked the people to give way and let me in to this old lady, who was then being held in the arms of her husband. I came right up to them, and took hold of her arm, and ordered her peremptorily to hush that gibberish; that I would have no more of it; that it was presumptuous, and blasphemous nonsense. I stopped very suddenly her unknown tongue. She opened her eyes, took me by the hand, and said:
“My dear friend, I have a message directly from God to you.” I stopped her short, and said, “I will have none of your messages. If God can speak through no better medium than an old, hypocritical, lying woman, I will hear nothing of it.” Her husband, who was to be the interpreter of her message, flew into a mighty rage, and said, “Sir, this is my wife, and 1 will defend her at the risk of my life.” I replied, “Sir, this is
my camp-meeting
, and I will maintain the good order of it at the risk of my life. If this is your wife, take her off from here, and clear yourselves in five minutes, or I will have you under guard.”
The old lady slipped out and was off quickly. The old man stayed a little, and began to pour a tirade of abuse on me. I stopped him short, and said, “Not another word of abuse from you, sir. I have no doubt you are an old thief, and if your back was examined, no doubt you carry the marks of the cowhide for your villainy.” And sure enough, as if I had spoken by inspiration, he, in some of the old states, had been lashed to the whipping-post for stealing, and I tell you, the old man began to think other persons had visions besides his wife, but he was very clear from wishing to interpret my unknown tongue. To cap the climax, a young gentleman stepped up and said he had no doubt all I said of this old man was true, and much more, for he had caught him stealing corn out of his father's crib. By this time, such was the old man's excitement, that the great drops of sweat ran down his face, and he called out,
“Don't crowd
me, gentlemen, it is
mighty warm.
”
Said I, “Open the way, gentlemen, and let him out.” When the way was opened, I cried, “Now start, and don't show your face here again, nor one of the Mormons. If you do, you will get
Lynch's law.
” They all disappeared, and our meeting went on prosperously, a great many were converted to God, and the church was much revived and built up in her holy faith.
My friend, Joe Smith, became very restive before I got through with my narrative; and when I closed, his wrath boiled over, and he cursed me in the name of his God, and said, “I will show you, sir, that I will raise up a government in these United States which will overturn the present government, and I will raise up a new religion that will
overturn every other form of religion
in this country!”
“Yes,” said I, “Uncle Joe, but my Bible tells me ‘the bloody and deceitful man shall not live out half his days,’ and I expect the Lord will send the devil after you some of these days, and take you out of the way.”
“No, sir,” said he, “I shall live and prosper, while you will die in your sins.”
“Well, sir,” said I, “if you live and prosper, you must quit your stealing and abominable whoredoms!”
Thus we parted, to meet no more on earth; for, in a few years after this, an outraged and deeply injured people took the law into their own hands, and killed him, and drove the Mormons from the state. They should be considered and treated as outlaws in every country and clime. The two great political parties in the state were nearly equal, and these wretched Mormons, for several years, held the balance of power, and they were always in market to the highest bidder. and I have often been put to the blush to see our demagogues and stump orators, from both political parties, courting favors from the Mormons, to gain a triumph in an election.
Great blame has been attached to the state, the citizens of Hancock county, in which Nauvoo is situated, as well as other adjoining counties, for the part they acted in driving the Mormons from among them. But it should be remembered they had no redress at law, for it is beyond all doubt that the Mormons would swear anything, true or false. They stole the stock, plundered and burned the houses and barns of the citizens, and there is no doubt they privately murdered
View of Mt. Joliet.
Joliet
is a thriving town, the county seat of Will co., situated on both sides of the Des Plaines River, and on the Illinois and Michigan canal, 148 miles N. E. by N. from Springfield, 280 from Detroit, and 40 S. W. from Chicago. It was formerly known on the maps as “McGee's mill dam.” On the eastern side of the river the city extends over a plain of considerable extent, rising as it recedes from the river. Upon the western side the land is formed into bluffs, beneath which is one of the principal streets. It is an important station on the Chicago and Rock Island, and the Chicago, Alton, and St. Louis Railroads, and is connected directly with the east by Joliet and Northern (cut-off) Railroads. The river affords valuable water power for mills. It is the center of considerable commerce, several manufactories; and in its vicinity is a rich farming country, and valuable quarries of building stone. The new state penitentiary is in the vicinity. Population about 7,000.
Joliet received its name from Mt. Joliet, a mound supposed to be an artificial elevation, situated about two and a half miles S. W. of the court house in this place and so called from Louis Joliet, who was born of French parents, at Quebec, in 1673. He was commissioned by M. de Frontenac to discover the Great River, some affluents of which had been visited by missionaries and traders. Joliet chose, for his companion, Father
Marquette
, whose name was thus connected with the discovery of the Mississippi.
The first dwellings erected in this place was a log house built by Charles Reed, about half a mile north-west of the court house, back of the bluff, and the house erected by James McGee, from Kentucky, near the National Hotel. The original plat of the town was laid out by James B. Campbell, in 1834. West Joliet, by Martin H. Demmond, in Jan. 1835; East Joliet by Albert W. Bowen, in Feb. 1835, since which time many additions have been made. The city of Joliet was incorporated
The Joliet Courier, now called Joliet Signal, was first printed by Gregg and Hudson, about 1836 or '37; the True Democrat, the second paper, was established in 1847, by A. Mackintosh, from New York. The first regular school house, a stone building now standing in Clinton-street, was built in 1843, at a cost of $700, considered at that time an extravagant expenditure. Among the first settlers on the east side of the river, were Dr. Albert W. Bowen, from N. Y., the first physician; Edward Perkins, Oneida Co., N. Y.; Robert Shoemaker, Thomas Blackburn, Richard Hobbs, from Ohio; Joel A. Matteson, since governor of the state; Daniel Wade, of Penn., and Lyman White, of N. Y. On the west side, Martin H. Demmond, from N. Y.; James McKee, or Gee, from Kentucky; John Curry, G. H. Woodruff, Deac. Josiah Beaumont, John J. Garland, Deac. Chauncy, from N. Y.; Charles Clement, from New Hampshire, and R. J. Cunningham, from Maryland.
La Salle
, is a flourishing city, on the right bank of Illinois River, at the head of steamboat navigation, one mile above Peru, and at the terminus of the Illinois Canal, 100 miles long, connecting it with Chicago. It has a ready communication, both with the northern and southern markets, by railroad, canal and river, the latter of which is navigable at all stages of water. At this point the Illinois Central Railroad crosses the Chicago and Rock Island Railroad. This place has great facilities for trade and manufactures. A substantial railroad bridge, 900 feet in length, crosses the Illinois at La Salle. An extensive establishment for the manufacture of flint glass is in operation here, under the charge of a French gentleman. Large warehouses line the river bank, and the dwellings occupy the high bluffs a little back. The surrounding country is highly productive, and contains extensive beds of bituminous coal, which is extensively mined. The city of
Peru
received its charter in 1851: it is separated from La Salle by only an imaginary line. Its manufacturing interests are well developed. The two cities are in effect one, so far as regards advantages of business, and are nearly equal in population. Peru and La Salle have several fine educational institutions, 11 churches, 5 weekly newspapers, and about 7,000 inhabitants.
Dixon
, the capital of Lee county, is beautifully situated on the banks of Rock River, at the junction of a branch of the Galena Railroad, with the Illinois Central, 98 miles west of Chicago. It has about 5,000 inhabitants.
Dunleith
, a smaller town, is the north-western terminus of the Illinois Central Railroad, on the Mississippi opposite Dubuque.
Kankakee City
is a fine town of 3,500 inhabitants, 56 miles south of Chicago, on Kankakee River and Illinois Central Railroad, and at a spot that a few years since had not a single dwelling.
St. Anne
, on the Central Railroad, in Kankakee county, is a colony of 800 French Canadian emigrants, under the pastoral care of Father Chiniquy, originally a Catholic priest, who, with his people, have embraced Protestantism. Each settler has about 40 acres, and their farms are laid along parallel roads, at right angles to the railroad. They exhibit signs of careful cultivation, and the village and church of the colony are prettily situated near the woods on the river side. In the three years prior to 1860, the crops of these people were cut off, and but for benevolent aid they would have perished from famine.
Vandalia
, capital of Fayette county, is on Kankakee River and Illinois Central Railroad, 80 miles south-easterly from Springfield. It was laid out in 1818, and until 1836 was the capital of Illinois. It is a small village.
Sandoval
is a new town, on the prairies, 230 miles from Chicago, and 60 from St. Louis. It is a great railroad center, at the point where intersect the Illinois Central and Ohio and Mississippi Railroads. “Here east meets west, and north meets south in the thundering conflict of propulsive motion, energy and speed.”
Elgin, Waukegan, St. Charles, Sterling, Moline, Naperville, Urbana, Belvidere, Batavia, Aurora, Abingdon, Macomb, Belleville, Sycamore
, and
Ottawa
are all thriving towns, mostly in the northern part of the state, the largest of which may have 5,000 inhabitants.
A few miles below Ottawa, on the Illinois River, are the picturesque hights of the Illinois, called the
Starved Rock
and the
Lover's Leap.
Starved Rock is a grand perpendicular limestone cliff, 150 feet in hight. It was named in memory of the fate of a party of Illinois Indians, who died on the rock from thirst, when besieged by the Pottawatomies. Lover's Leap is a precipitous ledge just above Starved Rock, and directly across the river is Buffalo Rock, a hight of 100 feet. This eminence, though very steep on the water side, slopes easily inland. The Indians were wont to drive the buffaloes in frightened herds to and over its awful brink.
MISCELLANIES.
THE BLACK HAWK WAR.
The following account of the “Black Hawk war” is taken from Mr. Peck's edition of Perkins' Annals:
In the year 1804, Gen. Harrison made a treaty with the Sacs and Foxes—two tribes united as one—by which they ceded the lands east of the Mississippi, to the United States; but to these lands they had no original right, even in the Indian sense, as they were intruders on the country of the Santeaurs and Iowas. By this treaty, they were permitted to reside and hunt upon these lands, until sold for settlement by the government.
This treaty was reconfirmed by the Indians, in the years 1815 and 1816. Black Hawk, who was
never
a chief, but merely an Indian
brave
, collected a few disaffected spirits, and refusing to attend the negotiations of 1816, went to Canada, proclaimed himself and party British, and received presents from them.
The treaty of 1804, was again ratified in 1822, by the Sacs and Foxes, in “full council,” at Fort Armstrong, Rock Island, on the Mississippi. In 1825, another treaty was held at Prairie du Chien, with the Indians, by William Clark and Lewis Cass, for the purpose of bringing about a peace between the Sacs and Foxes, the Chippewas and the Iowas on the one hand, and the Sioux and Dacotahs on the other. Hostilities continuing, the United States, in 1827, interfered between the contending tribes. This offended the Indians, who thereupon murdered two whites in the vicinity of Prairie du Chien, and attacked two boats on the Mississippi, conveying supplies to Fort Snelling, and killed and wounded several of the crews. Upon this, Gen. Atkinson marched into the Winnebago country, and made prisoners of Red Bird and six others, who were imprisoned at Prairie du Chien. A part of those arrested, were convicted on trial, and in December of the following year (1828) executed. Among those discharged for want of proof, was Black Hawk, then about sixty years of age.
About this time, the president issued a proclamation, according to law, and the country, about the mouth of Rock River, which had been previously surveyed, was sold, and the year following, was taken possession of by American families. Some time previous to this, after the death of old Quashquame, Keokuk was appointed chief of the Sac nation. The United States gave due notice to the Indians to leave the country east of the Mississippi, and Keokuk made the same proclamation to the Sacs, and a portion of the nation, with their regular chiefs, with Keokuk at their head, peaceably retired across the Mississippi. Up to this period, Black Hawk continued his annual visits to Malden, and received his annuity for allegiance to the British government. He would not recognize Keokuk as chief, but gathered about him all the restless spirits of his tribe, many of whom were young, and fired with the ambition of becoming “braves,” and set up himself for a chief.
Black Hawk was not a Pontiac, or a Tecumseh. He had neither the talent nor the influence to form any comprehensive scheme of action, yet he made an abortive attempt to unite all the Indians of the west, from Rock River to Mexico, in a war against the United States.
Still another treaty, and the seventh in succession, was made with the Sacs and Foxes, on the 15th of July, 1830, in which they again confirmed the preceding treaties, and promised to remove from Illinois to the territory west of the Mississippi. This was no new cession, but a recognition of the former treaties by the proper authorities of the nation, and a renewed pledge of fidelity to the United States.
During all this time, Black Hawk was gaining accessions to his party. Like Tecumseh, he, too, had his Prophet—whose influence over the superstitious savages was not without effect.
In 1830, an arrangement was made by the Americans who had purchased the land above the mouth of Rock River, and the Indians that remained, to live as neighbors, the latter cultivating their old fields. Their inclosures consisted of stakes stuck in the ground, and small poles tied with strips of bark transversely.
Black Hawk had about five hundred Indians in training, with horses, well provided with arms, and invaded the state of Illinois with hostile designs. These facts were known to the governor and other officers of the state. Consequently, Gov. Reynolds, on the 28th of May, 1831, made a call for volunteers, and communicated the facts to Gen. Gaines, of this military district, and made a call for regular troops. The state was invaded by a hostile band of savages, under an avowed enemy of the United States. The military turned out to the number of twelve hundred or more, on horseback, and under command of the late Gen. Joseph Duncan, marched to Rock River.
The regular troops went up the Mississippi in June. Black Hawk and his men, alarmed at this formidable appearance, recrossed the Mississippi, sent a white flag, and made a treaty, in which the United States agreed to furnish them a large amount of corn and other necessaries, if they would observe the treaty.
In the spring of 1832, Black Hawk, with his party, again crossed the Mississippi to the valley of Rock River, notwithstanding he was warned against doing so by Gen. Atkinson, who commanded at Fort Armstrong, in Rock Island. Troops, both regular and militia, were at once mustered and marched in pursuit of the native band. Among the troops was a party of volunteers under Major Stillman, who, on the 14th of May, was out on a tour of observation, and close in the neighborhood of the savages. On that evening, having discovered a party of Indians, the whites galloped forward to attack the savage band, but were met with so much energy and determination, that they took to their heels in utter consternation. The whites were 175 in number; the Indians from five to six hundred. Of this party, twenty-five followed the retreating battalion, after night for several miles. Eleven whites were killed and shockingly mangled, and several wounded. Some four or five Indians were known to be killed. This action was at Stillman's run, in the eastern part of Ogle county, about twenty-five miles above Dixon.
Peace was now hopeless, and although Keokuk, the legitimate chief of the nation, controlled a majority, the temptation of war and plunder was too strong for those who followed Black Hawk.
On the 21st of May, a party of warriors, about seventy in number, attacked the Indian Creek settlement in La Salle county, Illinois, killed fifteen persons, and took two young women prisoners; these were afterward returned to their friends, late in July, through the efforts of the Winnebagoes. On the following day, a party of spies was attacked and four of them slain, and other massacres followed. Meanwhile 3,000 Illinois militia had been ordered out, who rendezvoused upon the 20th of June, near Peru; these marched forward to the Rock River, where they were joined by the United States troops, the whole being under command of Gen. Atkinson. Six hundred mounted men were also ordered out, while Gen. Scott, with nine companies of artillery, hastened from the seaboard by the way of the lakes to Chicago, moving with such celerity that some of his troops, we are told, actually went 1,800 miles in eighteen days; passing in that time from Fort Monroe, on the Chesapeake, to Chicago. Long before the artillerists could reach the scene of action, however, the western troops had commenced the conflict in earnest, and before they did reach the field, had closed it. On the 24th of June, Black Hawk and his two hundred warriors were repulsed by Major Demint, with but one hundred and fifty militia: this skirmish took place between Rock River and Galena. The army then continued to move up Rock River, near the heads of which,
Before this action, Henry had sent word of his motions to the main army, by whom he was immediately rejoined, and on the 28th of July, the whole crossed the Wisconsin in pursuit of Black Hawk, who was retiring toward the Mississippi. Upon the bank of that river, nearly opposite the Upper Iowa, the Indians were overtaken and again defeated, on the 2d of August, with a loss of one hundred and fifty men, while of the whites but eighteen fell. This battle entirely broke the power of Black Hawk; he fled, but was seized by the Winnebagoes, and upon the 7th, was delivered to the officers of the United States, at Prairie du Chien.
Gen. Scott, during the months of July and August, was contending with a worse than Indian foe. The Asiatic cholera had just reached Canada; passing up the St. Lawrence to Detroit, it overtook the western-bound armament, and thenceforth the camp became a hospital. On the 8th of July, his thinned ranks landed at Fort Dearborn or Chicago, but it was late in August before they reached the Mississippi. The number of that band who died from the cholera, must have been at least seven times as great as that of all who fell in battle. There were several other skirmishes of the troops with the Indians, and a number of individuals murdered; making in all about seventy-five persons killed in these actions, or murdered on the frontiers.
In September, the Indian troubles were closed by a treaty, which relinquished to the white men thirty millions of acres of land, for which stipulated annuities were to be paid; constituting now the eastern portion of the state of Iowa, to which the only real claim of the Sacs and Foxes, was their depredations on the unoffending Iowas, about 140 years since. To Keokuk and his party, a reservation of forty miles square was given, in consideration of his fidelity; while Black Hawk and his family were sent as hostages to Fort Monroe, in the Chesapeake, where they remained until June, 1833. The chief afterward returned to his native wilds, where he died.
CAVE-IN-ROOK.
On the Ohio River, in Hardin county, a few miles above Elizabethtown, near the south- eastern corner of the state, is a famous cavern, known as Cave-in-Rock. Its entrance is a semi-circular arch of about 80 feet span and 25 feet in hight, and ascending gradually from the bed of the river, it penetrates to the distance of nearly 200 feet. This cave, in early times, was the terror of the boatmen on the Ohio, for it was one of the haunts of Mason and his band of outlaws, whose acts of murder upon travelers through the wilderness are elsewhere detailed in this work. The pioneers of the west suffered greatly from the desperadoes, who infested the country in the early stages of its history. And there have not been wanting, even in more recent times, instances in which bands of villains have been formed to set all law at defiance by preying upon society.
About the year 1820, the southern counties of Illinois contained a gang of horse thieves, so numerous and well organized as to defy punishment by legal means, until a company of citizens was formed, called “regulators,” who, taking the law into their own hands, at last drove the felons from the neighborhood. In 1841, a gang of these scoundrels existed in Ogle county and its vicinity, in the Rock River country. Wm. Cullen Bryant was traveling there at the time, and in his published volume of letters, gives, substantially, this narrative of their operations:
The thieves were accustomed to select the best animals from the drove, and these were passed from one station to another, until they arrived at some distant market,
Cave-in-Rock, on the Ohio.
At this time, there lived at Washington Grove, in Ogle county, one Bridge, a notorious confederate and harborer of horse thieves and counterfeiters. In July two horse thieves had been flogged, and Bridge received a notice from the regulators that he must leave the county by the 17th, or become a proper subject for the lynch law. Thereupon he came into Dixon, and asked for assistance to defend his person and dwelling from the lawless violence of these men. The people of Dixon then came together, and passed a resolution to the effect that they fully approved of what the association had done, and that they allowed Mr. Bridges the term of four hours to depart from the town. He went away immediately, and in great trepidation, but made preparations to defend himself. He kept 20 armed men about his place for two days, but thinking, at last, that the regulators did not mean to carry their threats into execution, he dismissed them. The regulators subsequently removed his family, and demolished his dwelling.
Not long after, two men, mounted and carrying rifles, called at the residence of
As soon as the event was known, the whole country was roused, and every man who was not an associate of the horse thieves, shouldered his rifle to go in pursuit of the murderers. They apprehended the father of Driscoll, a man nearly 70 years of age, and one of his sons, William Driscoll, the former a reputed horse thief, and the latter a man who had hitherto born a tolerably fair character, and subjected them to a separate examination. The father was wary in his answers, and put on the appearance of perfect innocence, but William Driscoll was greatly agitated, and confessed that he, with his father and others, had planned the murder of Campbell, and that David Driscoll, his brother, together with another associate, was employed to execute it. The father and son were then sentenced to
death;
they were bound and made to kneel. About 50 men took aim at each, and in three hours from the time they were taken, they were both dead men. A pit was dug on the spot where they fell, in the midst of the prairie near their dwelling. Their corpses, pierced with bullet holes in every part, were thrown in, and the earth was heaped over them.
The pursuit of David Driscoll, and the fellow who was with him when Campbell was killed, went on with great activity, more than a hundred men traversed the country in every direction, determined that no lurking place should hide them. The upshot was, that the Driscoll family lost another member, and the horse thieves and their confederates were driven from the country.
Within a very few years, the thinly settled parts of Iowa have suffered from like organized gangs of horse thieves, until the people were obliged to resort to a like summary process of dispelling the nuisance. To the isolated settler in a wilderness country, living many a long mile from neighbors, the horse is of a peculiar value, elsewhere unknown. So keenly is the robbery of these animals felt, that, in the failure of ordinary penalties to stop the perpetration of this crime, public opinion justifies the generally recognized
“Frontier Law,
” that DEATH is to be meted out to horse thieves.
Arms Of Michigan.
Motto
—
The
discovery and early settlement of Michigan is due to the French, whose motives were the prosecution of the fur trade, and, incidentally, the conversion of the Indians. To promote the latter object, Father Sagard reached Lake Huron in 1632, seven years after the founding of Quebec, but the present site of the city of Detroit appears to have been visited somewhat earlier. The tract of territory now embraced in the state of Michigan, derives its name, it is said, from the Indian word,
Michi-sawg-ye-gan
, the meaning of which, in the Algonquin tongue, is, the Lake Country.
The Huron tribe of Indians were the aboriginal inhabitants of Michigan. They were anciently very numerous, brave and powerful, and their settlements extended as far north as Lake Superior. As early as 1634, the French Catholic missionaries founded a mission near Lake Huron, and in 1660, a station was established on the rocky and pine clad borders of Lake Superior. In 1668, the Mission at St. Marys Falls was founded, and in 1671, Father Marquette gathered a little flock of Indian converts at Point St. Ignatius, on the main land, north of the island of Mackinaw. The great body of the Hurons were converted to the profession of Christianity by the efforts of the missionaries. The
Iroquois
, or
Five Nations
, made war upon them, and massacred or dispersed most of their number.
In 1667, Louis XIV sent a party of soldiers to this territory, to protect the French fur traders. In 1701, a French colony left Montreal, and begun the settlement of Detroit, which was a place of resort of the French missionaries at a much earlier period. Having established military posts at this and other places in Michigan, they soon extended their commerce westward of Lake Michigan, to the Indians on the Mississippi. They were steadily opposed by the Iroquois, and the settlements being somewhat neglected by
70Pontiac
, seized the occasion to rid the country of the hated whites, by a general uprising, and simultaneous attacks on all the forts of the English on the lakes. Mackinaw was taken by stratagem, and the garrison butchered. Detroit was besieged some months, by Pontiac, with 600 Indians, but it held out until the Indian allies, becoming weary of the siege, retired, and left Pontiac no choice but to make peace. At the termination of the revolutionary war, by the peace of 1783, Michigan, being included in the Northwest Territory, was ceded to the United States; the British, however, did not surrender the post of Detroit until 1796.
Soon after the treaty of Greenville, by Wayne, with the Indians, which was made in 1795, the settlements upon the Maumee (now wholly included in Ohio), upon the Raisin and Detroit Rivers, were organized under the name of Wayne county, and Detroit was the seat of justice. In 1796, the whole of the North-west Territory was organized into five extensive counties, of which Wayne, as described above, was one. The others, with their location, were as follows: “Washington county comprised all that portion of the present state of Ohio within forty miles of the Ohio River, and between the Muskingum and the Little Miami; Marietta was the seat of justice. Hamilton county comprised all that region of country between the Little and the Great Miami, within the same distance of the Ohio River; and Cincinnati was the county seat. Knox county embraced the country near the Ohio River, between the Great Miami and the Wabash Rivers; and Vincennes was the county seat. St. Clair county embraced the settlements upon the Illinois and upon the Kaskaskia Rivers, as well as those upon the Upper Mississippi; and Kaskaskia was the seat of justice.”
In 1805, the territory of Michigan was organized, and Gen. Wm. Hull appointed governor; Detroit was the seat of government. The census of 1820 gave it an aggregate population of only 8,900. This included the
Huron
District, on the west side of Lake Michigan, now known as the state of Wisconsin. “About the year 1832, the tide of emigration began to set strong toward Michigan Territory. Steamboat navigation had opened a new commerce upon the lakes, and had connected the eastern lakes and their population with the Illinois and Upper Mississippi. This immense lake navigation encircled the peninsula of Michigan. It became an object of exploration. Its unrivaled advantages for navigation, its immense tracts of the most fertile arable lands, adapted to the cultivation of all the northern grains and grasses, attracted the attention of western emigrants. The tide soon began to set strong into Michigan. Its fine level and rolling plains, its deep and enduring soil, and its immense advantages for trade and commerce had become known and duly appreciated. The hundreds of canoes, pirogues, and barges, with their half-civilized
couriers du bois
, which had annually visited Detroit for more than a century, had given way to large and splendid steamboats, which daily traversed the lakes from Buffalo to Chicago, from the east end of Lake Erie to the south-western extremity of Lake Michigan. Nearly a hundred sail of sloops and schooners were now traversing every part of these inland seas. Under these circumstances, how should Michigan remain a savage wilderness? New York state and the New England states began to send forth their numerous colonies, and the wilderness to smile.
At the end of two years more, or in 1834, the population of Michigan had
The humble villages and wigwams of the Indians, sparsely distributed over a wide extent of wilderness, had now given way to thousands of farms and civilized habitations. Towns and smiling villages usurped the encampment and the battle-field. The fertile banks of the ‘River Raisin’ were crowned with hamlets and towns instead of the melancholy stockade. A constitution had been adopted on the 15th of June, 1836, and the ‘state of Michigan’ was admitted into the Union on the 26th day of January, 1837, and Stephens T. Mason was made the first governor.”
In the war of 1812, the important fortress of Mackinaw, being garrisoned by only 57 men, under Lieut. Hanks, was surrendered to a party of British and Indians on July 17, 1812. On the 15th of August, Gen. Brock, with a force of 1,300 men, of whom 700 were Indians, summoned Gen. Hull to surrender Detroit, stating that he would be unable to control the Indians if any resistance should be offered. Although Hull had a force of 800 men, he supposed it would be useless to resist, and, to the astonishment of all, he surrendered the fort, and, in the capitulation, included the whole territory of Michigan. The indignation was great against him, and after he was exchanged, he was tried by a court martial, sentenced to death, but on account of his age and services in the Revolution, the president remitted the punishment, but deprived him of all military command. In Jan., 1813, Gen. Winchester, who was encamped at Frenchtown, on the River Raisin, was surprised by a force of British and Indians, under Gen. Proctor. After a severe contest, Gen. Winchester surrendered, under the promise of being protected from the Indians. The promise was broken: a large number of prisoners, mostly those who were wounded, were murdered by the Indians. The celebrated naval victory of Perry occurred on the waters of Lake Erie, only a few miles from her shores, and the victory of the Thames, in which the British and Indians were defeated by Harrison, and in which Tecumseh was slain, took place only a short distance from Detroit, within the adjacent Canadian territory. A brief outline of these events we present below:
“Perry's Victory.
—The grand object of the Americans in the campaign of 1813, in the west, was to attack Malden and reconquer Michigan from the enemy; but this could not be effectually done, so long as the fleet of the enemy held possession of Lake Erie. To further the desired object, a number of vessels had been building at Erie, on the south-east shore of the lake, and were finished early in August. They consisted of two twenty gun vessels, and seven smaller vessels, carrying from one to three each—the whole fleet numbering fifty-four guns. On the 10th of September, Perry fell in with, and gave battle to, the British fleet near the western end of the lake, under Commodore Barclay, consisting of six vessels, carrying in all sixty-four guns. The number of guns in both fleets, in some cases, is surpassed by those of a single battle-ship of the line. The engagement between these little fleets was desperate, and lasted three hours. Never was victory more complete; every British ship struck her colors, and the Americans took more prisoners than they themselves numbered men.
Gen. Harrison, at this time, lay with the main body of the Americans in the vicinity of Sandusky Bay and Fort Meigs; the British and their Indian allies, under Proctor and Tecumseh, were at Malden, ready, in case of a successful issue, to renew their ravages upon the American borders.
Battle of the Thames.
Harrison's army had received a reinforcement of 3,000 Kentucky volunteers under Gov. Shelby. On the 27th of September, the main body of the army sailed for Detroit River, intending to enter Canada by the valley of the Thames. Two days after, Harrison was at Sandwich, and M'Arthur took possession of Detroit. Proctor retreated up the Thames, was pursued, and come up with on the 5th of October, by Harrison's army; the Americans numbering something over 3,000, and their enemy about 2,000. The latter were badly posted in order of battle. Their infantry was formed in two lines, extending from the river to a small dividing swamp; the Indians extended from the latter to a larger swamp. The Kentucky mounted men, under Col. Richard M. Johnson, divided into two parts. The one under the colonel in person, charged the Indians; the other under his brother James, charged the infantry. The latter received the enemy's fire, broke through their ranks, and created such a panic, that they at once surrendered. Upon the left, the contest with the Indians was more severe; but there the impetuosity of the Kentuckians overcame the enemy, Tecumseh, their leader, being among the slain. The battle was over in half an hour, with a loss to both armies of less than fifty killed. Proctor fled at the beginning of the action. In January, 1814, the enemy again took a position near the battle-field of the Thames. Capt. Holmes, while advancing to meet them, learned that a superior force was approaching. Having posted himself on a hill, and thrown up intrenchments, he was vigorously attacked, but repulsed the enemy with considerable loss.
Attack on Mackinaw.
—In the June following, Col. Croghan attempted to take the island of Mackinaw, but his force being insufficient, he was repelled with the loss of twelve men, among whom was Major Holmes.
M'Arthur's Expedition.
—The last movement of consequence in the north-west, during the war, was the expedition of Gen. M'Arthur. He left Detroit on the 26th of October, with seven hundred cavalry, intending to move to the relief of Gen. Brown, who was besieged by the enemy at Fort Erie, on the Niagara River, opposite Buffalo. When he had proceeded about two hundred and fifty miles, he ascertained that the enemy were too strong in front, and he changed his course, defeated a body of opposing militia, destroyed several mills, and returned to Detroit, without the loss of a man, although pursued by about 1,200 regular troops.”
“The history of Michigan,” says Lanman, “exhibits three distinct and strongly marked epochs. The first may properly be denominated the
romantic
, which extends to the year 1760, when its dominion was transferred from France to Great Britain. This was the period when the first beams of civilization had scarcely penetrated its forests, and the paddles of the French fur traders swept the lakes, and the boat songs of the traders awakened tribes as wild as the wolves which howl around the wigwams. The second epoch is the
military
, commencing with the Pontiac war; and, running down through the successive struggles of the British, the Indians and the Americans, to obtain the dominion of the country, it ends with the victory of Commodore Perry, defeat of Proctor, and the death of Tecumseh, the leader of the Anglo-savage confederacy upon the banks of the Thames. The third epoch is the
enterprising
, the hardy, the practical, the working age of Michigan, and it commences with the introduction of the public lands into market. It is the age of agriculture, commerce, and manufactures; of harbors, cities, canals, and railroads.”
Michigan consists of two peninsulas, lying between latitudes 41° 45′ and 48° N., and between longitudes 82° 25′ and 90° 34″ W. from Greenwich. It is bounded N., N. E. and E., by Canada, from which it is separated by Lake Superior, the Sault St. Marie, Lake Huron, the Strait and Lake St. Clair, Detroit Strait and Lake Erie; on the S. by the states of Ohio and Indiana; and on the W. by Lake Michigan and the state of Wisconsin. The total land surface comprises an area of more than 56,000 square miles, and the area of waters within the constitutional limits of the state, is computedSouthern Peninsula
, or Michigan proper, comprises nearly two thirds of the land surface of the state. The Northern Peninsula has Lake Superior on the north, and Lake Huron and Lake Michigan on the south. It is about 220 miles from S. E. to N. W., and about 120 miles in its greatest width. The Southern Peninsula, about 283 miles from N. to S., and 200 from E. to W. in its broadest part.
The Southern Peninsula of Michigan may be considered, generally, as one vast undulating plain, seldom becoming rough or broken. There are occasional conical elevations from 150 to 200 feet in hight, but generally much less. The shores of Lake Huron are often steep, forming bluffs; while those of Lake Michigan are coasted by shifting sand hills of from 100 to 200 feet in hight. The central part of the peninsula may be regarded as a fertile table land, elevated about 300 feet above the level the great lakes. To the traveler, the country presents an appearance picturesque and delightful. Through a considerable part, it is so even and free from brush as to permit carriages to be driven through with considerable facility. The lowering forest and grove, the luxuriant prairie, the numerous crystal lakes and limpid rivulets, are so frequently and happily blended together, especially in the southern section, as to render this country one of the most beautiful in the Union.
The part of the Southern Peninsula generally known to travelers, and containing seven eighths of the population and productive industry of the state, stretches north 100 miles or so, from the north line of Indiana, reaching from Toledo on the east to within some 50 miles of Chicago on the west, embracing some 20,000 square miles of mainly arable land, having the average climate of New York, or Connecticut and Rhode Island, with about the area of Vermont and New Hampshire combined.
The Northern Peninsula exhibits a striking contrast to the Southern. While the latter is level or moderately undulating and quite fertile, the former (sometimes called the
Siberia
of Michigan) is rugged, mountainous, and to a considerable extent, sterile in soil. The shores of Lake Superior are composed of a sandstone rock, which, in many places, is worn by the action of the winds and waves into fancied resemblances of castles, etc., forming the celebrated
“Pictured Rocks;
” while the shores of Lake Michigan are composed of a limestone rock.
The Northern Peninsula is primitive in formation, but rich in mineral wealth. Here are the richest copper mines in the world. A block of almost pure copper, weighing over a tun, and bearing the arms of the state rests imbedded in the walls of the national monument at Washington.
Michigan has not advanced with equal rapidity to the prairie states; but she has enduring elements of solid wealth, which, in time, will render her among the most prosperous. Among these are her vast forests of valuable timber, her inexhaustible quarries of the finest of gypsum, her extensive fisheries; her recently discovered salt springs, and deposits of coal, and of copper and iron ore, a climate rendered equable and healthy by the vast bodies of water which nearly surround her, together with a soil that pays fairly the labors of the husbandman. A popular journalist gives us some substantial thoughts upon this subject. He says:
At first view, Michigan would seem far less inviting to farmers in quest of a location, than her more western sisters, and accordingly her growth has, for the last 20 years, been far slower than theirs. Her soil is, in the average, not nearly so rich as that of the prairies, and is generally covered with heavy timber, while
To buy a heavily timbered quarter section, let daylight in upon it, put up a log cabin, and move a family into it, with a determination to make there a farm, and get a living while making it, is an act of genuine courage. Many a man has been crowned a hero on considerably cheaper terms. He who does it, better deserves a pension than the ex-soldiers, whom congress has seemed disposed to quarter for life on the treasury. For the first half dozen years or so, the growth of that farm will be scarcely perceptible, since five days' work must be done elsewhere to every one devoted to the enlargement of the clearing. Making roads, going to mill, hunting cattle astray in the dense forest, making fences, etc., with the necessity of working for others to procure those necessaries of life that the narrow patch of stumpy clearing refuses to supply, consume at least five sixths of the time; so that the poor man who, from the first, adds five acres per annum to the area of arable soil which surrounds his cabin, does very well. But when 15 or 20 acres thus cleared, begin to furnish adequate bread for his family, and grass for his cattle, the case is bravely altered. Mills are by this time nearer and more easily reached; roads are better, and require less labor at his hands; each addition to his clearing requires fencing on but two sides, instead of three or four as at first; the older stumps begin to yield to the plow; wild animals and birds are less destructive of his growing crops than when the clearing was but a hand's breadth; so that two or three days per week may now be given to clearing instead of one. After 40 acres have been cleared, the timber ceases to be an obstacle; the neighboring saw mill or embryo village will take some of it at a price that will at least pay for cutting and drawing; the black ash swamp supplies in abundance the best of rail timber; a barn this year, a corn-crib next, and a wagon shed the year after, absorb a good many trees; the household fires lick up the residue; so that acres are insensible swept off without an effort; the remaining woods break the force of the sharp winds, and furnish nuts and other food for swine; and when the eightieth acre has been cleared, the quarter-section is worth more than if it were all treeless, and clearing for clearing's sake may be suspended. Local or personal circumstances must necessarily modify this picture, but its essential and general truth will be conceded. And thus a state or section, like a single farm, when denuded of a portion of its timber, is far more inviting to the settler than if it had no timber at all.
“Michigan is encompassed by five lakes, four of which are the largest collections of fresh water on the globe. These are, Lake Superior, Lake Michigan, Lake Huron, Lake St. Clair, and Lake Erie, which are connected by the Straits of Detroit, St. Clair, Michilimackinac, and St. Mary. Nor is this state merely surrounded by lakes, but the interior is interspersed with them from one border to the other. The country, indeed, is literally maculated with small lakes of every form and size, from an area of I to 1,000 acres, though, as a general rule, they do not, perhaps, average 500 acres in extent, they are sometimes so frequent that several of them may be seen from the same position. They are usually very deep, with gravelly bottoms, waters transparent, and of a cool temperature at all seasons. This latter fact is supposed to be in consequence of springs which furnish them constant supplies. Water fowl of various sorts inhabit their shores, and their depths are the domain of abundance of fish, trout, bass, pike, pickerel, dace, perch, catfish, sucker, bull-head, etc., which often grow to an extraordinary size. It is usual to find some creek or rivulet originating in these, but what is a singular fact, and not easily accounted for, many of these bodies of living water
The fisheries of Michigan are an important element of her industry. The proceeds of these amount, annually, to more than half a million of dollars, exceeding, in value, the combined product of the rest of the freshwater fisheries in the Union.
Among them the white fish, Mackinaw trout, and the muscolonge, are unsurpassed for their delicacy of flavor. Mackinaw has been famous as the greatest fishing point on the lakes. The work in that vicinity is mostly done by half-breeds—of French and Indian blood—in the employ of merchants. Of late years colonies of Norwegians have embarked in the business. Trained in the severe school of their rugged northern homes, they exhibit the greatest daring, going out in their tiny craft during the heaviest gales.
The settled parts of Michigan are well supplied with railroads, and others are in progress which will bring her valuable lands on the north into market. Within the state are an unusually large number of plank roads. In a country so full of lumber, these are easily constructed, and add much to the increase of business communication.
The great bulk of the present population of Michigan, is of New England descent. About one third of its settlers came directly from the state of New York. The number of inhabitants in 1810, was 4,762; in 1830, 31,639; in 1850, 397,654: in 1860, 754,291.
South-eastern view of Detroit.
Showing the appearance of the city as seen from the Great Western Depot, at Windsor, on the Canada side of the river. The buildings of the Michigan Central Railroad appear on the left.
Detroit,
the principal city, and formerly the capital of Michigan, is situated on the N.W. or right bank of Detroit River, or strait, 82 miles E.S.E. from Lansing, the present capital. The name
d'etroit
, the French word for “strait,” indicates its location. The city extends more than a mile and a half, the center of it being about 7 miles from Lake St. Clair, and 18 above the west end of Lake Erie, 526 from Washington, and, by steamboat, 327 from
Bordering the river, and for 1,200 feet back from it, the plan of the city is rectangular—in rear of this triangular. The streets are spacious, and among the more noted are eight avenues; three of these are 200 feet, and five others 120 feet wide. Five of these center at a public ground called the Grand Circus. In the city are several public squares or spaces, the principal of which are the Campus Martius and the Circus. A large portion of the buildings are of wood, but there are many handsome and substantial brick buildings. Among these may be mentioned, the old state house, now used for literary purposes; the two Catholic cathedrals; the first Presbyterian church, and several others. There are in all about 30 churches. The Central Railroad freight depot, is one of the largest in the United States. The city is supplied with the purest of water from the Detroit River; the reservoir, which is of cast iron, is kept supplied by means of a steam engine. The business of Detroit is immense. It has several extensive manufactories, large steam saw mills, founderies, machine shops, etc. It is most admirably situated for trade, and is becoming a great commercial emporium. The navigation of the river and lake is open about eight months in the year; the arrivals and departures of steam and sailing vessels is very great, and constantly increasing. By this, and the numerous railroad communications, thousands of emigrants travel annually, and millions of dollars worth of produce are transported. A direct trade has, of late years, sprung up with Europe, by means of sailing vessels, from this and other lake ports,
via
the Welland Canal, of Canada, the St. Lawrence River, and Atlantic Ocean. In 1859, 22 vessels in all sailed for Europe, laden with staves and lumber. The population of Detroit, in 1830, was 2,222; in 1840, 9,102; in 1850, 21,057; in 1853, 34,436; and in 1860, 46,834.
Detroit was founded in 1701, by Cadillac, a French nobleman, acting under a commission from Louis XIV. In June of this year, he left Montreal with one hundred men, a Jesuit missionary, and all the necessary means for the erection of a colony; reached Detroit in July, and commenced the foundation of the settlement. Before this period, and as far back as 1620, it was the resort of the French missionaries: when first visited by them, its site was occupied by an Indian village, named
Teuchsa Grondie.
A rude fort was erected by Cadillac, and surrounded with pickets, which inclosed a few houses, occupied by the French traders and the soldiers attached to the post. This establishment was, however, rude, frail, and mounted with small cannon. which were more adapted to overawe the Indians than for solid and effective defense.
* Lanman's History of Michigan.
In May, 1712, the Iroquois, or Five Nations, who were hostile to the French and friendly Indians, instigated the Ottagamies or Foxes, their allies, to capture Detroit. They were probably backed by the English, who wished to destroy this post and erect a fort of their own upon its ruins. At this period, the French had established three villages of friendly Indians in the immediate vicinity of the post, occupied by the Pottawatomies, the Ottawas,
View in Woodward Avenue, Detroit.
The City Hall and Market appear on the left the Russell House in the central part. In the extreme distance on the right, at the foot of Woodward Avenue, on the opposite or Canada side of the river, is seen the depot of the Great Western Railroad.
The French power in Michigan ceased with the conquest of Canada. In the fall of 1760, Major Rogers, with an English detachment, proceeded toward Detroit, to take possession. De Bellestre, when he heard of the advance of Rogers, erected a high flag-staff, with an effigy of a man's head on top, and upon this head he had placed the image of a crow. He told the Indians, who are strongly impressed with symbols, that the head represented Maj. Rogers, and the crow was himself. The interpretation of this group was, that the French commandant would scratch out the brains of the English. The Indians, however, were skeptical as to the truth of this emblem, and told him that the reverse would be the fact. Maj. Rogers, having pushed his boats up the Detroit River, drew up his detachment in a field within half a mile of the fort. Lieuts. Lefflie and M'Cormick, accompanied
The next event of importance in the history of Detroit, and, indeed, of the whole north-west, was the Indian outbreak called the “Pontiac War.” The fort at Detroit was, at this time, garrisoned by 122 men and 8 officers, under the command of Maj. Gladwyn. Two armed vessels were anchored in front of the town for defense. The Indians who besieged it were 600 in number.
“The plan which was devised by Pontiac to destroy the fort at Detroit; exhibited remarkable cunning as well as strategy. He had ordered the Indians to saw off their rifles so as to conceal them under their blankets, gain admission to the fort, and, at a preconcerted signal, which was the delivery of a belt of wampum in a certain way, to rush upon the troops, massacre the officers, and open the gates to the warriors on the outside, who should stand ready to co-operate with those within. In order to carry this plan into execution, he encamped at a little distance from Detroit, and sent word to Major Gladwyn that he and his warriors wished to hold a council with the English commandant on the following day, that ‘they might brighten the chain of peace.’ This was the 8th of May, 1763. The council was granted. On the evening of that day, an Indian woman, who had been employed by Major Gladwyn to make him a pair of elk-skin moccasins, which he intended to present to a friend, brought them to the fort. These were finished in so handsome a manner, that he requested the woman to take back the remainder of the skin, and make them into others for himself. He then paid her for those which she had made, and ordered his servant to see her from the fort. Having arrived at the gate which looks out upon the Detroit River, she lingered as if her business had been unfinished; and this conduct excited some remark. The servant of the commandant was ordered to inquire the reason of her delay, but he could procure no satisfactory answer. At length the commandant called her within the fort, and inquired why she loitered about the gate, and did not hasten home before they were shut, so that she might complete the moccasins at the proper time. She replied that the commandant had treated her with great kindness, and that she did not wish to take the skin away, as he prized it so much, because she could
‘never bring it back.
’ Something seemed to be struggling in her bosom for utterance, and at length, after a promise that the disclosure should not turn to her disadvantage, and that, if profitable, she might be rewarded, this Indian woman, named Catharine, developed the plot. Major Gladwyn mentioned his apprehensions to the officer next in command, but he deemed it a mere trick to frighten him, and not worthy of consideration. The night was occupied in making the proper preparations; the ammunition was examined and arranged, and every man within the fort, both trader and soldier, was directed to be prepared for sudden and active service. The defenses of the fort were strengthened, the arms made ready, and during the night guards were kept upon the ramparts. The war songs and dances of the Indians, which generally precede any important enterprise, breaking upon the silence of midnight, only strengthened his suspicions that the Indian woman had told the truth. In the morning of the 9th, about ten o'clock, Pontiac and his warriors repaired to the fort of Detroit, and they were immediately admitted to the council-house, where they were received by Major Gladwyn and his officers. During their progress toward the fort, the savages had noticed a remarkable parade of soldiers upon the ramparts and within the town, and that the officers in the council chamber, and also the governor, had each pistols in their belts. When the Indians were seated on their skins in the council chamber, Pontiac inquired what was the cause of this extraordinary military preparation; and he was told that it was necessary to keep the soldiers to rigid discipline. The council commenced by a speech from Pontiac, in which he professed the utmost friendship for the English; and as he approached the period of the concerted signal, the delivery of the belt of wampum,
Pontiac's speech having been concluded, Major Gladwyn commenced his answer; but instead of thanking Pontiac for his professions of friendship, he accused him of being a traitor and in order to convince him of his knowledge of the plot, he advanced toward the chief who sat nearest, and drawing aside his blanket, disclosed the shortened rifle. He advised him at the same time, to leave the fort before his young men should discover the design and massacre the Indians and assured him that his person should be held safe until he had advanced beyond the pickets, as he had promised him safety. As soon as the warriors had retired from the gates of the fort, they gave the yell, and fired upon the English garrison.
After this the fort was closely besieged, and the garrison reduced to great distress. On the 29th of July, the garrison was relieved by a detachment of 300 regular troops, under Capt. Dalyell. This officer, supposing that Pontiac might be surprised in his camp, marched out with 247 men, during the night of the 30th of July. The Indians, having information of the proposed attack, laid in wait for the party, concealed in the high grass, near a place since called the
Bloody Bridge
, upward of a mile from Detroit on the main road. Upon their arrival, a sudden and destructive fire was poured upon them, Capt. Dalyell and 19 others were killed and 42 wounded; the rest made good their retreat to the fort. Pontiac, having invested Detroit for about twelve months, hearing that Gen. Bradstreet was advancing with 3,000 men, gave up the siege and sued for peace, which was granted.
In 1796, the post of Detroit was delivered up by the British to the United States, according to treaty.
On tho 11th day of June, 1805, the sun rose in cloudless splendor, over the little town of Detroit. A few minutes after a poor washer-woman kindled a fire in a back yard, to begin her daily toil, a spark set fire to some hay. At
noon
of the same day, but
one
solitary dwelling remained, to mark the site of the town. All the others were in ashes, and the whole population, men, women and children—the aged and the young, the sick, the halt, and the blind, were driven into the streets, houseless and homeless. All the boats, pirogues and skills lying along the
beach
(as it then was), were loaded with goods, and pushed off into the stream; but burning shingles, driven by the wind, followed and destroyed them even there. The town being built of dry pine, and very compact, the streets being but about
twenty feet wide
(the width of a
sidewalk
on Jefferson Avenue), the progress of the fire was extremely rapid, and the heat tremendous. The whole population, like Bedouins of the desert, pitched their tents, by the cooling embers of their late happy dwellings. Fortunately, Providence permitted the calamity to fall on them in summer. The Lea-light hearts of the French
habitans
rose above the pressure of misfortune, and to work they went, to repair damages. No grumbling at Providence. Their religion told them that repining was useless. So they worked, and fiddled, and danced, and sung, and soon a new town began to appear, in its present extended form; and with the regret of the moment, passed away all sorrow for the losses endured.—
Witherell's Reminiscences.
The following account of the invasion of Detroit, by Gen. Brock, and of its surrender by Gen. Hull, on the 15th of August, 1812, is from Perkins' History of the Late War:
Gen. Brock had been educated in arms, and had sustained a distinguished rank
When the head of the British columns had advanced within five hundred yards of the line, and the artillery ready to sweep their ranks, orders were given for the troops to retire into the fort, and for the artillery not to fire. A white flag was hoisted. A British officer rode up to inquire the cause. A communication passed between the commanding generals, which soon ended in a capitulation. The fortress of Detroit, with all the public stores, property, and documents of every kind, were surrendered. The troops were made prisoners of war. The detachment under M'Arthur and Cass, and the troops at the River Raisin, were included in the capitulation. On the 17th, Gen. Brock dispatched a flag to Capt. Brush with the terms. He immediately called a council of his officers, who determined that they were not bound by the capitulation, and advised to break up the camp and return. In pursuance of their advice, Capt. Brush immediately broke up his camp, took with him what public stores and property he could, and commenced his retreat to Ohio. The Michigan militia who had not joined the army were paroled, on condition of not serving during the present war. No provision was made for the unfortunate Canadians who had joined Gen. Hull, or accepted his protection. They were left exposed to suffer as traitors; nine were executed at one time, and several more afterward. Gen. Hull in this measure took counsel only from his own fears. He held no council of war, knowing that all his officers would be opposed to the surrender. In his official report he expressly exempts them from any share in the disgraceful transaction.
The British force at Malden at the time Gen. Hull entered Canada, and until the 12th of August, consisted of one hundred regular troops, four hundred Canadian militia, and several hundred Indians. After the arrival of Gen. Brock with his reinforcements, the whole amounted to three hundred and thirty regulars, four hundred militia, and six hundred Indians. The troops surrendered by Gen. Hull amounted to twenty-five hundred, consisting of two troops of cavalry, one company of artillery, the fourth United States regiment, and detachments from the first and third; three regiments of Ohio volunteers, and one regiment of Michigan militia, amounting to about twelve hundred. By this capitulation the British obtained 2,500 muskets stacked on the esplanade at the time of the surrender, 450
John Kinzie, Indian trader, so long identified with the annals of Chicago, was, at the time of the surrender, residing in Detroit. In “Wau-bun, the ‘Early Day’ in the North-west,” is given this narrative, which shows the conduct of the British to their prisoners in no pleasing light:
It had been a stipulation of Gen. Hull, at the surrender of Detroit, that the inhabitants of that place should be permitted to remain undisturbed in their homes. Accordingly the family of Mr. Kinzie took up their quarters with their friends in the old mansion, which many will still recollect as standing on the north-east corner of Jefferson-avenue and Wayne-street.
The feelings of indignation and sympathy were constantly aroused in the hearts of the citizens during the winter that ensued. They were almost daily called upon to witness the cruelties practiced upon the American prisoners brought in by their Indian captors. Those who could scarcely drag their wounded, bleeding feet over the frozen ground, were compelled to dance for the amusement of the savages, and these exhibitions sometimes took place before the Government House, the residence of Col. McKee. Some of the British officers looked on from their windows at these heartrending performances; for the honor of humanity we will hope such instances were rare.
Everything that could be made available among the effects of the citizens were offered, to ransom their countrymen from the hands of these inhuman beings. The prisoners brought in from the River Raisin—those unfortunate men who were permitted after their surrender to Gen. Proctor, to be tortured and murdered by inches by his savage allies, excited the sympathies and called for the action of the whole community. Private houses were turned into hospitals, and every one was forward to get possession of as many as possible of the survivors. To effect this, even the articles of their apparel were bartered by the ladies of Detroit, as they watched from their doors or windows the miserable victims carried about for sale.
In the dwelling of Mr. Kinzie one large room was devoted to the reception of the sufferers. Few of them survived. Among those spoken of as objects of the deepest interest were two young gentlemen of Kentucky, brothers, both severely wounded, and their wounds aggravated to a mortal degree by subsequent ill-usage and hardships. Their solicitude for each other, and their exhibition in various ways of the most tender fraternal affection, created an impression never to be forgotten.
Mr. Kinzie joined his family at Detroit in the month of January. A short time after suspicions arose in the mind of Gen. Proctor that he was in correspondence with Gen. Harrison, who was now at Fort Meigs, and who was believed to be meditating an advance upon Detroit. Lieut. Watson of the British army waited upon Mr. Kinzie one day, with an invitation to the quarters of Gen. Proctor, on the opposite side of the river, saying he wished to speak with him on business. Quite unsuspicious, he complied with the invitation, when to his surprise he was ordered into confinement, and strictly guarded in the house of his former partner, Mr. Patterson, of Sandwich. Finding that he did not return to his home, Mrs. Kinzie informed some of the Indian chiefs, his particular friends, who immediately repaired to the head-quarters of the commanding officer, demanded their “friend's” release, and brought him back to his home. After waiting a time until a favorable opportunity presented itself, the general sent a detachment of dragoons to arrest him. They had succeeded in carrying him away, and crossing the river with him. Just at this moment a party of friendly Indians made their appearance.
“Where is the Shaw-nee-aw-kee?” was the first question. “There,” replied his wife, pointing across the river, “in the hands of the red-coats, who are taking him away again.”
The Indians ran to the river, seized some canoes that they found there, and crossing over to Sandwich, compelled Gen. Proctor a second time to forego his intentions.
A third time this officer was more successful, and succeeded in arresting Mr. Kinzie and conveying him heavily ironed to Fort Malden, in Canada, at the mouth of the Detroit River. Here he was at first treated with great severity, but after a time the rigor of his
On the 10th of September, as he was taking his promenade under the close supervision of a guard of soldiers, the whole party were startled by the sound of guns upon Lake Erie, at no great distance below. What could it mean? It must be Commodore Barclay firing into some of the Yankees. The firing continued. The time allotted the prisoner for his daily walk expired, but neither he nor his guard observed the lapse of time, so anxiously were they listening to what they now felt sure was an engagement between ships of war. At length Mr. Kinzie was reminded that the hour for his return to confinement had arrived. He petitioned for another half-hour.
“Let me stay,” said he, “till we can learn how the battle has gone.”
Very soon a sloop appeared under press of sail, rounding the point, and presently two gun-boats in chase of her.
“She is running—she bears the British colors,” cried he, “yes, yes, they are lowering —she is striking her flag! Now,” turning to the soldiers, “I will go back to prison contented —I know how the battle has gone.”
The sloop was the Little Belt, the last of the squadron captured by the gallant Perry on that memorable occasion which he announced in the immortal words:—
“We have met the enemy, and they are ours!
”
Matters were growing critical, and it was necessary to transfer all prisoners to a place of greater security than the frontier was now likely to be. It was resolved, therefore, to send Mr. Kinzie to the mother country. Nothing has ever appeared, which would explain the course of Gen. Proctor, in regard to this gentleman. He had been taken from the bosom of his family, where he was living quietly under the parole which he had received, and protected by the stipulations of the surrender. He was kept for months in confinement. Now he was placed on horseback under a strong guard, who announced that they had orders to shoot him through the head if he offered to speak to a person upon the road. He was tied upon the saddle in a way to prevent his escape, and thus they sat out for Quebec. A little incident occurred, which will help to illustrate the course invariably pursued toward our citizens at this period, by the British army on the north-western frontier.
The saddle on which Mr. Kinzie rode had not been properly fastened, and owing to the rough motion of the animal on which it was, it turned, so as to bring the rider into a most awkward and painful position. His limbs being fastened, he could not disengage himself, and in this manner he was compelled by those who had charge of him to ride until he was nearly exhausted, before they had the humanity to release him.
Arrived at Quebec, he was put on board a small vessel to be sent to England. The vessel when a few days out at sea was chased by an American frigate and driven into Halifax. A second time she set sail, when she sprung a leak and was compelled to put back.
The attempt to send him across the ocean was now abandoned, and he was returned to Quebec. Another step, equally inexplicable with his arrest, was now taken. This was his release and that of Mr. Macomb, of Detroit, who was also in confinement in Quebec, and the permission given them to return to their friends and families, although the war was not yet ended. It may possibly be imagined that in the treatment these gentlemen received, the British commander-in-chief sheltered himself under the plea of their being “native born British subjects,” and perhaps when it was ascertained that Mr. Kinzie was indeed a citizen of the United States, it was thought safest to release him.
In the meantime, Gen. Harrison at the head of his troops had reached Detroit. He landed on the 29th September. All the citizens went forth to meet him—Mrs. Kinzie, leading her children by the hand, was of the number. The general accompanied her to her home, and took up his abode there.
Watson visited Detroit in the summer of 1818, and has given in his Reminiscences a sketch of his visit, descriptive of what then fell under his notice here:
Here I am at the age of sixty in Detroit, seven hundred miles west of Albany. I little dreamed thirty years ago, that I should ever tread upon this territory.
The location of Detroit is eminently pleasant, being somewhat elevated, and boldly fronting its beautiful river. The old town has been burnt, which was a cluster of miserable structures picketed in and occupied by the descendants of Frenchmen, who pitched their tents here early in the seventeenth century in prosecution of the fur trade. The city is now laid out upon a large scale, the streets spacious, and crossing at right angles. The main street is called Jefferson-avenue, and stretches the whole length of the city. Detroit must always be the emporium of a vast and fertile interior. By the existing estimation of the value of real estate here, it has, I think, been greatly overrated. Commerce
The most attractive object I have seen on this beautiful river are its innumerable and lovely islands, most of which are cultivated. The dense forest approaches in close proximity to the city, and spreads over a level surface quite into the interior. From the highest point of elevation I could attain, I discerned no uplands, all was a dead plain. The land belongs to the government, and is of the richest quality, but has hitherto been represented as unhealthy. The territory of Michigan has not been adequately explored; but while I was at Detroit, several parties of enterprising and energetic young men penetrated into the woods with packs on their shoulders to investigate, and returned with the most glowing and flattering accounts of a country of the choicest land, generally undulating, and requiring nothing but the vigorous arm of industry to convert it into the granary of America.
The near approach of the wilderness to Detroit, brings the howling wolves within a short distance of the city, and I was frequently called on to listen to their shrill cries in the calm, hot nights. The numerous and large old orchards of the finest apples, originally imported from France, and the extensive fisheries of white fish in the vicinity, greatly augment the wealth and comfort of the people. Although possessing the most fertile soil such is the wretched character of their agriculture, that the inhabitants are mainly dependent upon the young and thriving state of Ohio, for their supplies of pork, beef, breadstuffs, and even of potatoes.
East view of the State House at Lansing.
The engraving shows the front or the eastern side of the Michigan State Capitol. One of the Union Public Schools is seen in the distance on the left, and the State building containing the office of the Secretary of State, Auditor, etc., on the right.
I daily notice squaws fighting in the streets like wild-cats, and in conditions too revolting to describe. They lay about the city like swine, begging for cats and dogs, which they devour at the river side half-cooked. The most disgusting and loathsome sight I ever witnessed, was that of a coarse, fat, half-naked Indian, as filthy as a beast, under a tree immediately in front of my son's residence, filling his mouth with whisky until his cheeks were completely distended, and then two or three squaws in succession sucking it out of the corners. I called my daughter-in-law to see the revolting sight, but she assured me it was nothing unusual, and that the practice was common with this tribe of Indians. I often visited the fort that my old friend Hull so fatally and ignominiously surrendered. Col. Myers, who was in command of Fort George at its capture, informed me while a prisoner in Pittsfield, that one half of Brock's army, at the surrender of Detroit, were Canadian militia dressed in British red coats.
Lansing,
the capital of Michigan, is situated on both sides of Grand River, here a large mill stream, 85 miles N. W. of Detroit, 20 from St. Johns on the Detroit and Milwaukee Railroad, and 40 from Jackson on the Central
The lands comprising the northern part of Lansing were first entered from the United States, in 1836, by James Seymour, Frederic Bushnell, and Charles M. Lee, of Rochester, New York. The first settler was John W. Burchard, a young lawyer, who bought, on the east side of Grand River, 109 acres of James Seymour, situated at the lower town bridge extending up the river to the school section. He built a log cabin still standing in the rear of the Seymour House. This was in 1843; and in June of the same year, he removed his family to this place, and immediately commenced building a saw-mill and dam. In the spring of 1844, he was drowned while amusing himself, in a boat, at the sheet of water which fell over the dam, which he had constructed. Approaching too near, his boat was overturned, and he perished amid the eddying waters. He was buried at Mason, 12 miles distant, universally lamented. He was a man of much promise, and was the first prosecuting attorney in the county. On the death of Mr. Burchard, his family left the place, and the settlement was, for a short time, abandoned, and the lands and improvements reverted back to Mr. Seymour.
In Aug. 1844, Mr. Seymour employed Joab Page, and his two sons-in-law, Whitney Smith and Geo. D. Pease, all of Mason, to finish the mill, etc. All these lived in Burchard's log house for several years.
In Jan. 1847, Mr. Seymour made a proposition to the legislature of Michigan, that if they would remove the seat of government on to his lands, he would give 20 acres, erect the capitol and buildings for the use of the state. This offer, however, was not accepted; but they passed an act to locate the capital in the township. A commission was appointed, consisting of the commissioner of the land office, James Seymour, and Messrs. Townsend and Brother, of New York, to make a definite location. The commission selected a spot on which to erect a capitol building, one mile from the Burchard Mill, on section 16, called the “School Section.” The commission, in May of the same year, united in laying out a town plat, two and one fourth miles long, and one wide, comprising both sides of the river. At this period there were no settlers on the tract but the Page family, whose nearest neighbors, on the south and east, were four and a half miles distant, and one settler, Justus Gilkley, a mile and a half to the north-west. Within a few weeks after the town was laid out, one thousand persons moved into the place.
The following are the names of some of the first settlers besides those already mentioned:
E. B. Danforth, D. L. Case, James Turner, Charles P. Bush, George W. Peck, John Thomas, Whitney Jones, A. T. Crossman, Henry C. Walker, C. C. Darling, Dr. B. S. Taylor, J. C. Bailey, M. W. Quackenbush.
Lansing received its name from Lansing in New York, from which some of the settlers had emigrated. The first public worship in the place was held in the Burchard log house, by the Methodist traveling preachers. In 1849, the Methodists and Presbyterians united in building the first church in the place, now solely occupied by the Methodists. The first Presbyterian clergyman here, was the Rev. S. Millar, from Dexter. The first school was kept in a little shanty built in 1847 and stood near the Seymour House. The first physician was a Dr. Smith, who, soon after his arrival in 1847, died of a fever in Page's log house. The first postmaster was George W. Peck, who, for a time, kept the office in Bush and Townsend's store, near the upper town bridge. The first framed house in the township
Southern view of the Penitentiary at Jackson.
Showing its appearance as seen from the railroad.
Jackson
is a large, thriving, and well-built town, on the line of the Michigan Central Railroad, on and near the head of Grand River, 76 miles W. from Detroit, and 32 S. from Lansing, the capital. The streams here afford excellent water power, and the soil is well adapted to grass or grain. Coal and an abundance of white sand-stone and lime-stone are found in the vicinity. The inhabitants are extensively engaged in the manufactures of flour, leather, iron ware, machinery, etc. It contains the county buildings, a branch of the state university, the state penitentiary, 7 churches, and several banks. Its situation and facilities for travel give it a large trade. Population about 6,000.
“In this, Jackson county, the matter of mining coal has recently become an enterprise of considerable magnitude. There are several ‘workings’ of coal in the vicinity of Jackson, and companies have been formed for the purpose of mining coal. Considerable coal has been mined and sold from these different workings and mines. The principal mine, and one which in all its arrangements and provisions, is equal to any mine in the country, is that of the Detroit and Jackson Coal and Mining Company. The works of this company are at Woodville station, on the line of the Michigan Central Railroad, about three and a half miles west of Jackson city. The mine is situated on the north side of the railroad, and about half a mile from the main track. The Coal Company have built a side track from the Central Road to the mouth of their shaft. The shaft from which the coal is taken, is 90 feet deep, and at the bottom passes through a vein of coal about four feet in thickness. This vein has been opened in different directions, for several hundred feet from the shaft, and with a tram road through the different entries the coal is reached and brought from the rooms to the shaft, and then lifted by steam to the surface. This coal has been transported to different points in the state, and is rapidly coming into use for all ordinary purposes, taking the place of many of the Ohio coals, and at a reduced cost. The existence of valuable beds of coal, in Central Michigan, has only been determined within the past few years. Beside the openings in this county, there have been others made at Owesso and Corunna, in Shiawassee county; at Flint in Genesee county, and at Lansing. Most of these have been upon veins outcropping at the surface of the ground.”
71
Adrian
, a flourishing town, is situated on a branch of the Raisin River, and on the Michigan Southern Railroad, 80 miles S. E. from Lansing; 37 W. from Monroe, and 70 W. S. W. from Detroit. The Erie and Kalamazoo Railroad, which was opened in 1836, connects the town with Toledo, 32 miles distant; and the Southern Railroad was extended westward to Chicago, in 1852. Adrian was incorporated as a city in 1853. Being in the midst of a fine, fertile, farming region, it has, since the construction of its railroads, increased with rapidity. It has several flouring mills, foundries, machine shops, etc.; 10 houses of worship, and about 6,000 inhabitants.
The village was surveyed and platted in 1828, by Addison J. Comstock, who made a location in 1826, and having erected a shanty, he brought his family here in the spring of 1827, and was soon joined by Noah Norton and others. The first sermon preached in the place, was in 1827, by Rev. John Janes, of the Methodist Episcopal Church, at the house occupied by Mr. Norton. In 1830 a Methodist Church was organized. Other churches were soon after established by the Baptists and Presbyterians. The first house of worship was erected in 1832, on Churchstreet, by the Presbyterians: it was afterward sold to the Episcopalians, and is now owned by the Methodists. The first framed school house was erected in the winter of 1831–2. It stood at the corner of Main and Winter-streets, and was used, for some time, for the double purpose of school and church. Mr. Comstock built a saw mill in 1827, and soon after a flouring mill, the only one for many miles around. The seat of justice for Lenawee county was removed from Tecumseh to Adrian, in 1836. The city received its name from Mrs. Comstock. James Sword was the first mayor. Mr. S. is a native of the county of Kent, in England; he was a soldier in the Peninsular war, in Spain, and was in several important battles at that period. The
Lenawee Republican
and
Adrian Gazette
, R. W. Ingalls, editor and proprietor; the first paper in the county, was issued Oct. 22. 1834. Its name has been changed to “The Watch Tower.” In 1843, the Messrs. Jermain commenced the publication of the
“Expositor.
” The first physician was Dr. Ormsby, the second Dr. Bebee, who died of the small pox, and the third, Dr. P. J. Spalding, who came to Adrian in 1832.
Ann Arbor
, the county seat of Washtenaw county, is on Huron River, and on the Michigan Central Railroad. It is 37 miles W. from Detroit, and 51 southerly from Lansing. It is considered one of the most beautifully situated places in the state. The site of the city is elevated, dry, and healthy, and it is regularly laid out. The state university, in this place, was established in 1837, and is now a flourishing and well endowed institution. The literary department was opened in 1841; the medical department in 1849, and in 1853 a scientific course was added. The buildings are large, in an elevated, commanding, and pleasant situation. Ann Arbor is surrounded by an excellent farming district, has considerable trade and manufactures of various kinds. Population about 6,000.
University of Michigan
Monroe
is near the head of Lake Erie, on one of the branches of the Michigan Southern Railroad, 41 miles from Detroit and 24 from Toledo, by the railroad connecting those cities. It is on both sides of the River Raisin, 2 miles from its entrance into the lake. It has a fine harbor, and the soil
This point formerly called
Frenchtown,
and sometimes the settlement of the
River Raisin
, is one of the most noted in the history of Michigan. The following details are communicated for this work, by Edwin Willits, Esq., of Monroe, who has given much attention to the investigation of the history of this section:
Winchester's Head Quarters,
On the River Raisin.
This house, modernized, is now the Episcopal parsonage in Monroe. It is of hewn logs: the chimneys were built of stone from the river bed a few yards distant, and the original form of the house in the usual style of the French settlers, with a very steep roof. The grove of pear trees in the rear is supposed to be over 70 years old.
Monroe was one of the earliest settlements in the state of Michigan, a small body of Canadians and French having settled there in 1784. In 1794, Detroit and Frenchtown (Monroe) were the principal towns on the eastern side of the peninsula. The latter consisted, however, of only a few log cabins bordering both banks of the River Raisin, the claims on which they were situated being narrow and running back from the river a long distance. The cultivated portions of the claims lay next to the river, and were inclosed by pickets which were very substantial, being split outroughly from logs, and driven or set in the ground closely together. The first American settlement was established there in 1793, and soon after a Catholic chapel was erected for the French.
The region around about Frenchtown was originally inhabited and claimed by the Pottawatomie Indians. At a treaty concluded at Fort McIntosh in 1785, these Indians and other tribes ceded to the United States a strip of territory six miles wide, extending from the southern bank of the River Raisin to Lake St. Clair. As late as the year 1800, the Pottawatomies had a village of a thousand warriors, beside their wives and children, at what is now called Chase's Mill, on the River Raisin, eight miles west of the city of Monroe. Their huts were made of bark, and were thatched with wild grass. This was their permanent dwelling place, save when they were absent on hunting expeditions. They cultivated the flat between the high grounds and the river for their cornfields: they were peaceable when sober.
At Hull's treaty at Detroit, in 1807, the Indians ceded to the United States about 14 of the present counties in the eastern part of Michigan, and two and one half counties in northern Ohio. After this, therefore, the Pottawatomies abandoned their village near Monroe, and moved west. They reserved, however, a tract of land in Monroe county, three miles square, called the Macon Reservation, 14 miles from the mouth of the River Raisin.
In 1805, there were, according to the report of Judge Woodward, 121 settlements, or farms, on the River Raisin. These, however, must have included the neighboring settlement on Sandy and other creeks, as there could scarcely have been that number on the River Raisin, according to the memory of the oldest settlers. At this time there was no village, nor any collection of houses nearer than they would naturally be on the narrow French claims. In 1807 a block house and stockade were built on the spot now occupied by the residence of Hon. Charles Noble; they were erected for the protection of the people from the Indians. The stockade was an acre in size, surrounded with pickets 12 feet high, and 12 to 15 inches through, set closely together, forming a very substantial defense. For some time the upper part of the block house was used to hold courts in, and the lower part was the prison.
In consequence of the fact, that the settlement of the River Raisin was on the direct road from Detroit to Ohio, it was deemed a post of considerable importance during the difficulties that preceded, as well as during the actual hostilities of the war of 1812. Detroit depended, in a great measure, on Ohio and Kentucky for men and provisions, and as these, since Gen. Hull had cut a narrow wagon road through, would pass through Frenchtown, it was of importance that the place should be kept out of the hands of the enemy, who could easily cross over from Canada and cut off the supplies before they reached Detroit. For this reason, Monroe became the scene of actual warfare, not on a very extended scale, it is true, but worthy of record among the incidents of the war of 1812.
Just previous to, or about the first of August, 1812, Col. Brush was sent from Ohio at the head of two companies of Ohio militia, with 3 or 400 cattle, and a large stock of provisions, and some arms and ammunition, for Gen. Hull, then in command of the American troops at Detroit. He got as far as Frenchtown, but learning that a large party of British and Indians had been sent out from Malden, Canada, to intercept him at Brownstown, a place some 20 miles from Frenchtown, on the road to Detroit, and fearing to advance farther without assistance from Gen. Hull, he occupied the block house and stockade. Two expeditions were sent out by Gen. Hull to relieve Col. Brush. The first consisting of 200 men under Maj. Van Horn, fell into an ambuscade of Indians at Brownstown, on the 8th of August, and, after fighting gallantly against a hidden and superior force, he thought it best, as his force was evidently too small, to return to Detroit, leaving 18 dead on the field. The second expedition was made by Col. Miller, on the 9th of August, with 600 men, who met, fought and dispersed, after a desperate battle, a large body of British and Indians at Monguagon, a place 15 miles below Detroit. The British were commanded by Maj. Muir, the Indians by the celebrated Indian warrior and statesman, Tecumseh, who, on that day, fought with desperate valor, and although wounded, maintained his ground while the British regulars gave way. Col. Miller was obliged to await provisions before he could advance further toward the Raisin, and was finally ordered back by Gen. Hull, who feared or expected an attack on Detroit. Arrangements were now made to convey Col. Brush and the supplies in his charge by a more circuitous and less exposed route, which had been traveled by James Knaggs, who had carried a letter from Col. Brush to Gen. Hull. In order to effect this, Colonels McArthur and Cass were sent to his relief with 350 of the best troops, on the 13th of August, but they had not arrived at the Raisin before the surrender of Detroit to the British, which occurred the 16th of August, their command, as well as that of Col. Brush and his supplies, being included in the capitulation.
In order to secure the force under Col. Brush and the supplies in his charge, Capt. Elliott, a British officer, accompanied by a Frenchman and a Wyandot Indian, was sent to Frenchtown with a copy of the capitulation. Col. Brush, learning from his scouts that Capt. Elliott was coming with a flag of truce, sent a guard out to meet him. He and his companions were blindfolded and brought into the stockade. Brush would not believe Elliott's story, and thought it was a hoax, and the copy of the capitulation a forgery, so utterly improbable did it seem that Detroit had been taken. For this reason he threw Elliott and his two companions into the block-house. The next day, however, the story was confirmed by an American soldier, who had escaped from Detroit. Upon this, Brush packed up what provisions he could, and, driving his cattle before him, escaped to Ohio, leaving orders to release Elliott on the next day, which was done. Elliott, of course, was indignant at his treatment, and at the escape of Brush with so much of the supplies. To add to his rage, a great portion of the provisions and ammunition left by Brush, had been carried off and secreted by the inhabitants of the place, before he had been released, they thinking it no great harm to take, for their own use, what would otherwise fall into the hands of the rascally British, as they called them. These acts were certainly very injudicious, and all concur in attributing a great portion of the calamities that befell the settlement to the manner in which they had treated Elliott, and to their evasion of the terms of the capitulation. Elliott sent for Tecumseh to pursue Brush, and permitted the Indians to ravage and plunder
* One incident we have never seen published, shows the character of the great Indian chieftain, Tecumseh, in a noble light. When he came to the Raisin, after the retreat of Col. Brush, he found that most of the cattle of the settlement had been driven off, either by the settlers in order to save them, or by the Indians as plunder. Therefore he experienced much difficulty in getting meat for his warriors. He, however, discovered a yoke of fine black oxen, belonging to a man by the name of Rivard, who resided up the river some distance above Monroe. Tecumseh took the cattle, but Rivard begged so hard, stating that they were the only property he had left, and taking him into the house, showed the chieftain his father, sick and in need of medicine, and appealed so hard to Tecumseh's generosity, that Tecumseh said he must have the cattle, as his men were hungry, but that he would pay him $100 for them. The cattle were speedily killed, and during the evening a man who could write made out an order on Elliott for $100, and it was signed by Tecumseh. The next morning Rivard went to the block-house to get the money, but Elliott would not pay the order, and treated Rivard harshly, telling him the oxen did not belong to him, but to the British who had conquered the country. Rivard returned and reported what had occurred. Tecumseh was indignant, declaring that if that was the way his orders were treated, he would pay the debt himself, and leave with his men. The truly insulted chieftain then strode into Elliott's presence, accompanied by Rivard, and demanded why his order had not been paid? Elliott told him that he had no authority to pay such debts, that it was no more than right that the citizens should support the army for their willfulness. Tecumseh replied that he had promised the man the money, and the money he should have, if he had to sell all his own horses to raise it: that the man was poor and bad a sick father as he knew, having seen him, and that it was not right that this man should suffer for the evil deeds of his government, and that if this was the way the British intended to carry on the war, he would pay the debt and then leave with his men for his home, and let the British do their own fighting. Elliott, subdued by the will of the Indian leader, brought out $100 in government scrip, but Tecumseh bade him take it back, as he had promised the man the money, and the money he should have, or he would leave. Elliott was therefore compelled to pay the specie, and then, in addition, Tecumseh made him give the man a dollar extra for the trouble he had been at.
About this time, at the command of Elliott, the block-house was burned, and also a portion of the pickets were destroyed, as it was impossible for the British to occupy the place then, and it would not answer to leave them standing. Elliott then left, and bands of Indians repeatedly came and plundered the settlement, until about October, when some British officers came with some militia and took permanent possession of the place. They occupied the houses of Jerome and Conture, below the brick house now owned by Gibson, not far from the present railroad bridge. This location was made from the fact that it was adjacent to, and commanded the road to Detroit, and because, from its elevation, it overlooked the opposite (south) side of the River Raisin, whence would come the attacks of the Americans, who were shortly expected to advance under Gen. Harrison to Detroit. Here they remained with a considerable force of British and Indians, until the appearance of the advance troops under Gen. Winchester, on the 18th of January, 1813. These advance troops were led by Colonels Lewis and Allen, and came from Maumee on the ice, and attacked, on the afternoon of that day, the enemy, from a point below where the storehouses on the canal are now situated. The British had posted a six-pounder on the high ground in front of the camp, and with it attempted to prevent the Americans from crossing, by firing diagonally down the river, but the attack was made with such vigor, that the British were dislodged after a short contest, and compelled to retreat toward Malden. The Indians held out until dark, being protected, in a measure, by the rushes which concealed
On the 19th, two hundred Americans, under Col. Wells, arrived and encamped on the Reaume farm, about 80 rods below the other troops. On the 20th of January, Gen. Winchester arrived and took up his quarters in the house of Col. Francis Navarre, on the opposite (south) side of the river, about three quarters of a mile above the position of Cols. Lewis and Allen. The troops that came with him, under Major Madison, occupied the same camp that the others did: All the forces amounted to not far from 1,000 men.
Immediately after the battle of the 18th, some of the French inhabitants who had sold provisions to the British, followed them to Malden to get their pay. On their return, they brought word that the British and Indians were collecting in large force, to the amount of 3,000 to attack Frenchtown. Gen. Winchester paid but little attention to these reports, feeling considerable confidence in his own strength, and expecting reinforcements that would render him safe beyond a doubt, before the enemy could possibly. attack him. The British seemed to be aware that they must make the attack before these reinforcements came up, if they wished to effect anything; hence they hastened their preparations. On the 21st, several of the more prominent French citizens went to Winchester and told him that they had reliable information that the American camp would be attacked that night or the next day. He was so infatuated that he paid no further deference to their statement than to order those soldiers who were scattered around the settlement, drinking cider with the inhabitants, to assemble and remain in camp all night.
About daylight on the morning of the 22d of January, 1813, a large force of British and Indians, under Proctor and the celebrated Indian chiefs, Round Head and Split Log, attacked the camp of the Americans. The attack was made all along the lines, but the British forces were more particularly led against the upper camp, occupied by Major Madison and Cols. Lewis and Allen, and the Indians against the lower camp, occupied by Col. Wells. The British were unsuccessful at their part of the lines, where the Americans fought with great bravery, and were protected very much by the pickets, which being placed at some distance from the woods, afforded the Kentucky riflemen a fine opportunity to shoot the enemy down as they were advancing. An attempt was then made by the British to use a field piece just at the edge of the hoped to prostrate the pickets and batter down the houses, but the Kentuckians with their sharpshooters picked the men off as fast as they attempted to load it, so that they were forced to abandon the attack and suffer a repulse.
Site Of The Stockade on the River Raisin.
The upper camp and where the wounded prisoners were massacred after woods, by which they their surrender, was on the site of the large house on the extreme left. The site of the lower camp appears in the distance below. The view was taken from the railroad bridge on the Toledo, Monroe and Detroit R.R.
While these things were happening at the upper camp, a far different state of things existed at the lower one. The attack of the Indians was so impetuous, the position so indefensible, and the American force so inadequate, consisting of only 200 men, that, notwithstanding the bravery of Col. Wells and his men, it was impossible to retain the position. Cols. Lewis and Allen attempted to take a reinforcement
Gen. Winchester, impressed with the foolish idea that an attack would not be made, had retired the night before without having made any arrangements for safety or dispatch in case of an attack. Therefore when awakened by the firing, he and his aids made great confusion, all crying for their horses, which were in Col. Navarre's stable, the servants scarcely awake enough to equip them with haste. The luckless commander became very impatient to join his forces, nearly a mile distant, and, to gratify his desire, Col. Navarre offered him his best and fleetest horse, which had been kept saddled all night, as Navarre, in common with all the French inhabitants, expected an attack before morning. On this horse he started for the camp, but, on the way, finding that a large number of the troops were then fleeing on the Hull road, he followed after them to rally them, and, if possible, regain the day, but on his way he was taken prisoner by an Indian (said to have been Jack Brandy), who knew by his clothes that he was an officer) and therefore spared his life. Proctor persuaded the Indian to deliver him over into his hands. Col. Allen was also taken prisoner about the same time; he had behaved with extraordinary courage during the whole action, although wounded in the thigh. He was finally killed by an Indian while held a prisoner.
With Winchester as his prisoner, Proctor felt that he could dictate terms to that portion of the American troops under the command of Major Madison in the upper camp, who had thus far made a successful resistance. Proctor sent with a flag one of Gen. Winchester's aids, with the peremptory orders of the latter, directing Major Madison to surrender. Col. Proctor had demanded an immediate surrender, or he would burn the settlement, and allow the Indians to massacre the prisoners and the inhabitants of the place. Major Madison replied, that it was customary for the Indians to massacre the wounded and prisoners after a surrender, and he would not agree to any capitulation Gen. Winchester might make, unless the safety and protection of his men were guaranteed. After trying in vain to get an unconditional surrender, Major Madison and his men being disposed to sell their lives as dearly as possible, rather than run the risk of being massacred in cold blood, Proctor agreed to the terms demanded, which were, that private property should be respected, that sleds should be sent next morning to take the sick and wounded to Malden, and that their side arms should be restored to the officers on their arrival there.
These terms completed, the surrender was made, and the prisoners and British and Indians started for Malden: not, however, until the Indians had violated the first article of the agreement, by plundering the settlement. But finally all departed, except the sick and wounded American soldiers, who were left in the two houses of the upper camp, to await the coming of the sleds on the morrow. Only two or three persons were left in charge of them, a neglect which was nearly or quite criminal on the part of Proctor. The last and most disgraceful scene in this bloody tragedy was yet to be enacted. The sleds that were to take the ill-fated sufferers to Malden never came. In their stead came, the next morning, 300 Indians, painted black and red, determined on massacreing the wounded Americans, in revenge for their loss the day before. The slaughter soon commenced in earnest Breaking into the houses where the Americans were, they first plundered and then tomahawked them. The houses were set on fire, and those within were consumed; if any attempted to crawl out of the doors or windows they were wounded with the hatchet and pushed back into the flames: those that happened to be outside were stricken down, and their dying bodies thrown into the burning dwellings. Major Wolfolk, the secretary of Gen. Winchester, was killed in the massacre. Thus ended the
“Massacre of the River Raisin.
” Thus perished in cold blood some of Kentucky's noblest heroes: their death filled with sorrow many homes south of the Ohio. No monument marks the place of their death: but little is known of the private history of those brave spirits who traversed a wilderness of several hundred miles, and gave up their lives for their country: who died alone, unprotected, wounded, in a settlement far from the abode of civilization.
But few of the killed were ever buried. Their bones lay bleaching in the sun for years. On the 4th of July, 1818, a company of men under the charge of Col. Anderson, an old settler of Frenchtown, went to the spot of the battle and collected a large quantity of the bones, and buried them, with appropriate ceremonies, in the old graveyard in Monroe. For years after, however, it was not uncommon to find a skull, fractured by the fatal tomahawk, hidden away in some clump of bushes, where the dogs and wild beasts had dragged the body to devour its flesh.
In addition to the preceding communication, we annex extracts from Darnall's Journal of Winchester's Campaign, which gives additional light upon the disaster of the River Raisin:
Jan.
19
th.
Frenchtown is situated on the north side of this river, not more than three miles from the place it empties into Lake Erie. There is a row of dwelling houses, about twenty in number, principally frame, near the bank, surrounded with a fence made in the form of picketing, with split timber, from four to five feet high. This was not designed as a fortification, but to secure their yards and gardens.
21
st.
A reinforcement of two hundred and thirty men arrived in the afternoon; also Gen. Winchester, Col. Wells, Major M'Clanahan, Capt. Hart, Surgeons Irvin and Montgomery, and some other gentlemen, who came to eat apples and drink cider, having been deprived of every kind of spirits nearly two months. The officers having viewed and laid off a piece of ground for a camp and breastworks, resolved that it was too late to remove and erect fortifications that evening. Further, as they resolved to remove early next day, it was not thought worth while, though materials were at hand, to fortify the right wing, which therefore encamped in the open field; this want of precaution was a great cause of our mournful defeat. Col. Wells, their commander, set out for the Rapids late in the evening. A Frenchman arrived here late in the evening from Malden, and stated that a large number of Indians and British were coming on the ice, with artillery, to attack us; he judged their number to be three thousand; this was not believed by some of our leading men, who were regaling themselves with whisky and loaf sugar; but the generality of the troops put great confidence in the Frenchman's report, and expected some fatal disaster to befall us; principally because Gen. Winchester had taken up his head-quarters nearly half a mile from any part of the encampment, and because the right wing was exposed. Ensign Harrow, who was sent with a party of men. some time after night, by the orders of Col. Lewis, to bring in all the men, either officers or privates, that he might find out of their quarters; after finding some and giving them their orders, went to a brick house about a mile up the river, and entered a room; finding it not occupied, he immediately went above stairs, and saw two men whom he took to be British officers, talking with the landlord; the landlord asked him to walk down into a
store room, and handing his bottle, asked him to drink, and informed him “there was no danger, for the British had not a
* When the right wing began to retreat, it is said orders were given by some of the officers to the men in the eastern end of the picketing, to march out to their assistance. Captain Price, and a number of men sallied out. Captain Price was killed, and most of the men.
The British collected their troops, and marched in front of the village. We marched out and grounded our arms, in heat and bitterness of spirit. The British and Indians took possession of them. All the prisoners, except those that were badly wounded, Dr. Todd, Dr. Bowers, and a few attendants, were marched toward Malden. The British said, as they had a great many of their wounded to take to Malden that evening, it would be out of their power to take ours before morning, but they would leave a sufficient guard so that they should not be interrupted by the Indians.
As they did not leave the PROMISED GUARD, I lost all confidence in them, and expected we would all be massacred before morning. I being the only person in this house not wounded, with the assistance of some of the wounded, I prepared something for about thirty to eat.
We passed this night under the most serious apprehensions of being massacred by the tomahawk, or consumed in the flames:—I frequently went out to see if the house was set on fire. At length the long wished for morn arrived, and filled each heart with a cheerful hope of being delivered from the cruelty of these merciless savages. We were making every preparation to be ready for the promised sleighs. But, alas! instead of the sleighs, about an hour by sun, a great number of savages, painted with various colors, came yelling in the most hideous manner! Those blood-thirsty, terrific savages (sent here by their more cruel and perfidious allies, the British), rushed into the houses where the desponding wounded lay, and insolently stripped them of their blankets, and all their best clothes, and ordered them out of the houses! I ran out of the house to inform the interpreters † I was since informed that Col. Elliott instructed the interpreters to leave the wounded, after dark, to the mercy of the savages. They all went off except one half-Indian.
In traveling two miles, we came to a house where there were two British officers; the Indian made a halt, and I asked one of the officers what the Indian was going to do with me; he said he was going to take me to Amherstburgh (or Malden.) I judged these villains had instructed the Indians to do what they had done.
During my captivity with the Indians, the other prisoners were treated very inhumanly. The first night they were put in a woodyard; the rain commenced early in the night and put out all their fires; in this manner they passed a tedious night, wet and benumbed with cold. From this place they were taken to a cold warehouse, still deprived of fire, with their clothes and blankets frozen, and nothing to eat but a little bread. In this wretched condition they continued two days and three nights.
Captain Hart, who was among those massacred, was the brother-in-law of Henry Clay. Timothy Mallary, in his narrative of his captivity, says on this point:
The Indians ordered several other prisoners and myself to march for Malden. We had not proceeded far before they tomahawked four of this number, amongst whom was Capt. Hart, of Lexington. He had hired an Indian to take him to Malden. I saw part of this hire paid to the Indian. After having taken him some distance, another Indian demanded him, saying that he was his prisoner; the hireling would not give him up; the claimant, finding that he could not get him alive, shot him in the left side with a pistol. Captain Hart still remained on his horse; the claimant then ran up, struck him with a tomahawk, pulled him off his horse, scalped him, and left him lying there.
Hon. B. F. H. Witherell, of Detroit, in his Reminiscences, gives some facts upon the inhuman treatment of the prisoners taken at the River Raisin. He says:
Our fellow-citizen, Oliver Bellair, Esq., at that time a boy, resided with his parents at Malden. He states that, when the prisoners, some three or four hundred in number, arrived at Malden, they were pictures of misery. A long, cold march from the states in mid winter, camping out in the deep snow, the hard-fought battle and subsequent robbery of their effects, left them perfectly destitute of any comforts. Many of the prisoners were also slightly Wounded; the blood, dust, and smoke of battle were yet upon them. At Malden, they were driven into an open woodyard, and, without tents or covering of any kind, thinly clad, they endured the bitter cold of a long January night; but they were soldiers of the republic, and suffered without murmuring at their hard lot. They were
The people of Malden were generally kind to prisoners. It is not in the nature of a Frenchman to be otherwise than kind to the suffering.
Mr. Bellair tells me, that, at the time these prisoners were brought into Malden, the village presented a horrid spectacle. The Indians had cut off the heads of those who had fallen in the battle and massacre, to the number of a hundred or more, brought them to Malden, and stuck them up in rows on the top of a high, sharp-pointed picket fence; and there they stood, their matted locks deeply stained with their own gore—their eyes wide open; staring out upon the multitude, exhibiting all variety of feature; some with a pleasant smile; others, who had probably lingered long in mortal agony, had a scowl of defiance, despair, or revenge; and others wore the appearance of deep distress and sorrow—they may have died thinking of their far-off wives and children, and friends, and pleasant homes which they should visit no more; the winter's frost had fixed their features as they died, and they changed not.
The savages had congregated in large numbers, and had brought back with them from the bloody banks of the Raisin, and other parts of our frontiers, immense numbers of scalps, strung upon poles, among which might be seen the soft, silky locks of young children, the ringlets and tresses of fair maidens, the burnished locks of middle life, and the silver gray of age. The scalps were hung some twenty together on a pole; each was extended by a small hoop around the edge, and they were all painted red on the flesh side, and were carried about the town to the music of the war-whoop and the scalp-yell.
That the British government and its officers did not attempt to restrain the savages is well known; on the contrary, they were instigated to the commission of these barbarous deeds. Among the papers of Gen. Proctor, captured at the battle of the Thames, was found a letter from Gen. Brock to Proctor, apparently in answer to one asking whether he should restrain the ferocity of the savages. The reply was: “The Indians are necessary to his Majesty's service, and
must be indulged.
” If the gallant Brock would tolerate the atrocious conduct of his savage allies, what could be expected from others?
The State Asylum for Deaf Mutes and the Blind, Flint.
The cut shows the west front of the Asylum. (Inscription on the corner stone.) 1857. Erected by the State of Michigan. J. B. Walker, Building Commissioner; J. T. Johnson, foreman of the mason work; R. Vantifflin, foreman of the joiner work.
Flint,
the county seat for Genesee county, on both sides of the river of its own name, is situated in the midst of a beautiful and fertile country, 46 miles E.N.E. from Lansing, and 58 N.W. from Detroit. It has considerable water power. The Michigan Asylum for Deaf Mutes and the Blind, one of the most elegant and beautiful buildings in the state, is at this place. The city was incorporated in 1855, comprising three localities or villages, viz: Flint, Flint River, and Grand Traverse. Population about 4,000.
In 1832, Olmsted Chamberlin and Gideon O. Whittemore, of Oakland, Mich., made a location in Flint of 40 acres, and Levi Gilkey, of 50 acres. John Todd, with his wife, originally Miss P. M. Smith, of Cayuga county, New York, with their children, Edwin A. and Mary L. Todd, were the first white settlers of Flint. They arrived here April 18, 1833, with two wagons, on the second day after leaving Pontiac. They moved into a log hut on the bank of the river, then a trading house, a few rods from the bridge, and used afterward as a stopping place. The next regular settler was Nathaniel Ladd, who located himself on Smith's reservation, on the north side of the river, in a hut which had been occupied by two Indian traders. Lyman Stow, from Vermont, who bought out Mr. Ladd, came next. At the time of the arrival of Mr. Todd, the whole country here wag an entire forest, excepting a small tract cleared by the Indian traders. The silence of the wilderness was nightly broken by the howling of wolves. The “wild forest serenade,” as not inaptly termed by Mrs. Todd, began with a slight howl, striking, as it were, the key note of the concert; this was soon succeeded by others of a louder tone, which, still rising higher and louder, the whole forest finally resounded with one almost continuous yell.
In 1834, there were only four buildings at this place, then without a name: at this period there was a fort at Saginaw, and the U. S. government was opening a military road from Detroit to Saginaw. They had just built the first bridge across Flint River, where previously all travelers had been ferried over in an Indian canoe. Among the first settlers was Col. Cronk, from New York, who bought land for his children, among whom were James Cronk, who died in the Mexican war, and his son-in-law, Elijah Davenport, now Judge Davenport, of Saginaw. Col. Cronk died at the house of John Todd, after an illness of eight days. He was distinguished for his affability and benevolence, and was much respected. The first religious meeting was held by Rev. O. F. North, a Methodist traveling preacher, at the dwelling of Mr. Todd, who built a frame house the fall after his arrival; the lumber used was sawed at Thread mill, about one and a half miles from Flint. Rev. W. H. Brockway, an Indian missionary, was for a time the only regular preacher in the wide range of the counties of Lapeer, Genesee, Shiawasse, and Saginaw. He traveled on foot, and usually alone. Once in four weeks he visited Flint, and preached in Todd's log cabin, afterward in a room over the store of — & Wright. Daniel Sullivan commenced the first school near the close of 1834, and had some 10 or 12 scholars, comprising all the white children in the neighborhood. His compensation was ten cents weekly for each scholar. Miss Lucy Riggs, the daughter of Judge Riggs, it is believed, was the first female teacher; she kept her school in a kind of shanty in Main-street, some 60 or 70 rods from the river.
The township of Flint was organized under the territorial government, in 1836. The first election for township officers was held in the blacksmith shop of Kline & Freeman, Rufus W. Stephens, acting as moderator, and David Mather as clerk. The first church erected was the Presbyterian: it stood on
Poney Row
, a street said to have been named from the circumstance that, at an early period, a number of men who lived there were short of stature. The Episcopalians erected the second church; Rev. Mr. Brown was their first minister. The Methodist church was the third erected, the Catholic the fourth, and the Baptist the fifth, the first minister of which was the Rev. Mr. Gamble. The Episcopal church of St. Paul was raised in 1844. The present Methodist church was built in 1845. The Presbyterian church was erected about the year 1847. The first regular physician was John Hayes, from Massachusetts; the second was Dr. Lamond. The first printing press was introduced about 1836; the “Genesee Whig” was established in 1850; the first newspaper printed by steam power was the “Wolverine Citizen,” by F. H. Rankin, a native of Ireland.
Grand Rapids,
first settled in 1833, laid out as a village in 1836, and incorporated in 1850, is the second city in importance in Michigan. It is the county seat of Kent county, on the line of the Detroit and Milwaukie Railroad, at the Rapids of Grand River; 60 miles W. N.W. of Lansing, and 150 from Detroit.
Grand River is here about 900 feet wide, and has a fall of 18 feet, which gives an immense water power. The city contains a large number of mills of various kinds, as flouring, saw, plaster; also founderies, lime-kilns, lumber dealers, marble gypsum, gravel sand, and manufactories of staves, hubs, etc. Building material of every description is found in the neighborhood, and also salt springs of extraordinary strength, far greater than those at Syracuse, requiring but 29 gallons to produce a bushel of salt.
The manufacture of salt, now in its infancy here, is destined to work marvelous changes in this region of country.— “Grand Rapids also has in its vicinity inexhaustible quarries of the finest gypsum, of which 20,000 tuns per annum are already used in agriculture by the farmers of Michigan, which amount will be doubled, and soon trebled, on the construction of the north and south land-grant road from Indiana through Kalamazoo and Grand Rapids, to some point near Mackinaw, of which road a part has already been graded.”
View in Monroe-street, Grand Rapids.
Grand Rapids now has a population of about 12,000, and it is the remark of the editor of the New York Tribune, after visiting this place, that in view of its natural advantages, he shall be disappointed if the census of 1870 does not swell its population to 50,000.
Grand Rapids is a handsome city, and is remarkable for the energy and enterprise of its population. It is the great seat of the lumber trade in western Michigan. This being a branch of industry of primary importance, not only to this point, but to the whole state, we introduce here an extract from a recent article in the Detroit Tribune, from the pen of Kay Haddock, Esq., its commercial editor, which will give an idea of the amount of wealth Michigan possesses in her noble forests. These although repelling the early emigrants to the west, in view of the easy tillable lands of the prairie states, will in the end add to her substantial progress, and educate for her a population rendered more hardy by the manly toil required to clear up and subdue vast forests of the heaviest of timber. Careful estimates show that, in prosperous times, the annual products of the
pineries
of the state even now amount to about TEN MILLIONS of dollars.
It is
now
almost universally admitted that the state of Michigan possesses in her soil and timber the material source of immense wealth. While in years past it has been difficult to obtain satisfactory information concerning the real condition and natural resources of a large portion of the surface of the Lower Peninsula, the re-survey of portions of the government land, the exploration of the country
The pine lands of the state, which are a reliable source of present and future wealth, are so located and distributed as to bring almost every portion of the state, sooner or later in connection with the commerce of the lakes. The pine timber of Michigan is generally interspersed with other varieties of timber, such as beech, maple, whiteash, oak, cherry, etc., and in most cases the soil is suited to agricultural purposes. This is particularly the case on the western slope of the peninsula, on the waters of Lake Michigan, and along the central portion of the state. On the east and near Lake Huron, the pine districts, are more extensively covered with pine timber, and generally not so desirable for farming purposes. There are good farming lands, however, all along the coast of Lake Huron and extending back into the interior.
Lumberman's Camp,
In the Pine Forests of Michigan.
A large proportion of the pine lands of the state are in the hands of the Canal Company, and individuals who are holding them as an investment, and it is no detriment to this great interest, that the whole state has been thus explored, and the choicest lands secured. The developments which have thus been made of the quality and extent of the pine districts, have given stability and confidence to the lumbering interest. And these lands are not held at exorbitant prices, but are sold upon fair and reasonable terms, such as practical business men and lumbermen will not usually object to.
It is a remarkable fact that almost every stream of water in the state, north of Grand River, penetrates a district of pine lands, and the mouths of nearly all these streams are already occupied with lumbering establishments of greater or less magnitude. These lumber colonies are the pioneers, and generally attract around them others who engage in agriculture, and thus almost imperceptibly the agricultural interests of the state are spreading and developing in every direction. The want of suitable means of access alone prevents the rapid settlement of large and fertile districts of our state, which axe not unknown to the more enterprising and persevering pioneers, who have led the way through the wilderness, and are now engaged almost single-handed in their labors, not shrinking from the privations and sufferings which are sure to surround these first settlements in our new districts.
The Grand Traverse region, with its excellent soil, comparatively mild climate, and abundance of timber of every description is attracting much attention, and extensive settlements have already commenced in many localities in that region. The coast of Lake Michigan, from Grand River north, for upward of one hundred miles to Manistee River, presents generally a barren, sandy appearance, the sand hills of that coast almost invariably shutting out from the view the surrounding country.
North of the Manistee, however, this characteristic of the coast changes, and the hard timber comes out to the lake, and presents a fine region of country extending from Lake Michigan to Grand Traverse Bay and beyond, embracing the head waters of the Manistee River. This large tract of agricultural land is one of the richest portions of the state, and having throughout its whole extent extensive groves of excellent pine timber interspersed, t is one of the most desirable portions of the peninsula. Grand Traverse Bay, the Manistee River, and the
A natural harbor, which is being improved by private enterprise, is found at the mouth of the River Aux Becs Scies, and a new settlement and town has been started at this point. This is a natural outlet for a Considerable portion of the region just described. The lands here, as in other localities in the new portions of the state, are such as must induce a rapid settlement whenever the means of communication shall be opened.
The valley of the Muskegon embraces every variety of soil and timber, and is one of the most attractive portions of the peninsula. The pine lands upon this river are scattered all along the valley in groups or tracts containing several thousand acres each, interspersed with hard timber and surrounded by fine agricultural lands. The Pere Marquette River and White River, large streams emptying into Lake Michigan, pass through a region possessing much the same characteristics. This whole region is underlaid with lime rock, a rich soil, well watered with living springs, resembling in many features the Grand River valley. Beds of gypsum have been discovered on the head waters of the Pere Marquette. The unsettled counties in the northern portion of the state, the northern portion of Montcalm, and Gratiot, Isabella, Gladwin, Clare, and a portion of Midland, are not inferior to any other portion. There is a magnificent body of pine stretching from the head of Flat River, in Montcalm county, to the upper waters of the Tettibewassee, and growing upon a fine soil, well adapted to agriculture. This embraces a portion of the Saginaw valley, and covers the high ground dividing the waters of Lakes Huron and Michigan.
The eastern slope of the peninsula embraces a variety of soil and timber somewhat different in its general features from other portions of the state. The pine lands of this region are near the coast of the lake, and lie in large tracts, but with good agricultural land adjoining.
There are in the lower peninsula, in round numbers, about 24,000,000 acres of land. Taking Houghton Lake, near the center of the state, as a point of view, the general surface may be comprehended as follows: The Muskegon valley to the south-west, following the Muskegon River in its course to Lake Michigan. The western slope of the peninsula directly west, embracing the pine and agricultural districts along the valleys of several large streams emptying into Lake Michigan. the large and beautiful region to the north-west, embracing the valley of the Manistee and the undulating lands around Grand Traverse bay. Northward, the region embraces the head waters of the Manistee and Au Sauble, with the large tracts of excellent pine in that locality, and beyond, the agricultural region extending to little Traverse Bay and the Straits of Mackinaw. To the south-east, the Saginaw valley; and to the south, the high lands before described in the central countries.
That portion of the state south of Saginaw and the Grand River valley, is so well known that a description here would be unnecessary. Thus we have yet undeveloped over half of the surface of this peninsula, embracing, certainly, 12,000,000 to 15,000,000 of acres, possessing stores of wealth in the timber upon. its surface, reserving soil for the benefit of those, who, as the means of communication are opened, will come in and possess it, and thus introduce industry and prosperity into our waste places.
We have not the figures at hand, but it is probable that at least one tenth of the area north of the Grand River is embraced in the pine region. The swamp lands granted to the state will probably cover nearly double the area of the pine lands proper. The remainder, for the most part, is covered with a magnificent growth of hard timber suited to the necessities of our growing population and commerce.
The trade in pine timber, lumber, shingles, and other varieties of lumber, with the traffic in staves form one of the most important branches of manufacture and commerce in our own state, and this trade alone is now accomplishing more for the development and settlement of the country than all other causes in operation.
Saginaw
, the county seat of Saginaw county, is 57 miles N. E. of Lansing, and 95 N. N. W. of Detroit, and is built on the site of a trading post which, during the war of 1812, was occupied as a military post. It is on the W. bank of Saginaw River, elevated about 30 feet above the water, 22 miles from the mouth of the river at Saginaw Bay, an inlet of Lake Huron. It possesses advantages for commerce, as the river is large, and navigable for vessels drawing 10 feet of water. The four branches of this river coming from various directions, unite a few miles above the town, and afford intercourse by boats with a large portion of the state. Population about 3,000.
A very extensive lumber business is carried on at Saginaw. Within a short time the manufacture of
salt
has begun here, from brine obtained at the depth of 620 feet. The salt is of extraordinary purity, and the brine of unusual strength. This industry, when developed, will greatly increase the prosperity of the Saginaw valley.
Pontiac
, named after the celebrated Indian chieftain, is situated on Clinton River, on the line of the railroad, 25 miles N. W. from Detroit. It is a flourishing village, and the county seat of Oakland county. Is an active place of business, and is one of the principal wool markets in the state. It has quite a number of stores, mills, and factories, and six churches. Population about 3,000.
Mr. Asahel Fuller, a native of Connecticut, emigrated to Michigan in 1827, and located himself at Waterford, seven miles north-west from Pontiac, on the Old Indian trail from Detroit to Saginaw, and was a long period known as an inn-keeper in this section of the state. The Chippewa Indians who received their annuities from the British government at Malden, Canada West, in their journeyings, often camped or stopped near his house, sometimes to the number of 2 or 300. On one occasion he. saw them go through their incantations to heal a sick man, one of their number. They formed a circle around him, singing a kind of hum drum tune, beating a drum made of a hollow log with a deer skin stretched over it. The Indian priest or powaw would occasionally throw into the fire a tobacco, which had been rubbed in the hand, likewise pour whiskey into the fire after drinking a little himself, evidently as a kind of sacrifice. On another occasion a man breathed into a sick child's mouth, and prayed most fervently to the Great Spirit to interpose. In 1830, Mr. Fuller purchased the first lot of government lands in Springfield, 12 miles from Pontiac. He removed there in 1831, and erected the first house in the place, his nearest neighbor being 5 miles to the south-east, and 15 to the north-west. Here he kept a public house on the Indian trail on a most beautiful spot, called Little Spring, near two beautiful lakes; a favorite place of resort for the Indians, and where they sometimes held the “White Dog Feast,” one of their sacred observances. Mrs. Julia A. O'Donoughue, the daughter of Mr. F., and wife of Mr. Washington O'Donoughue, was the first white child born in Springfield.
Port Huron
is in St. Clair county, 77 miles from Detroit, at the junction of Black and St. Clair Rivers, two miles south from Lake Huron, and one mile from Fort Gratiot, a somewhat noted post. It has a good harbor and superior facilities for ship building, and is largely engaged in the lumber business. Great amounts of excellent pine timber are sent down Black River, and manufactured or shipped here. It is the eastern terminus of the Port Huron and Lake Michigan Railroad, the western terminus of the Grand Trunk Railroad, which extends from the eastern to the western limits of the Canadas. It is one of the greatest lumber markets in the west. Its annual exports amount to $2,000,000. Population about 3,500.
On the line of the Michigan Central Railroad, beside those already described, are the following large and flourishing towns, all having abundanceYpsilanti
, 30 miles from Detroit on Huron River, is the seat of the state normal school, a branch of the state university.
Marshall
is 107 miles from Detroit.
Battle Creek
120 miles from Detroit.
Kalamazoo
, 23 miles farther west, contains a United States land office, the state asylum for the insane, and a branch of the state university. This is one of the most beautiful of villages: it is planted all over with trees, every street being lined with them.
Niles
, 191 miles from Detroit, has a branch of the state university, and is the principal market for south-western Michigan. The St. Joseph River is navigable beyond this point for small steamers.
Farther south, in the state, are other important towns, containing each about 3,000 inhabitants. They are:
Tecumseh
, 10 miles N. E. of Adrian, and connected by a branch railroad, eight miles in length, with the Michigan Southern Railroad.
Hillsdale
, on the last named railroad, 110 miles from Detroit, and noted as the seat of Hillsdale College, a thriving and highly popular institution, chartered in 1855.
Coldwater
is also on the same railroad, 22 miles westerly from Hillsdale.
St. Joseph
, at the entrance of St. Joseph River into Lake Michigan, 194 miles west of Detroit, has a fine harbor and an extensive trade in lumber and fruit, with Chicago.
In 1679, the noted explorer, La Salle, built a fort at the mouth of St. Joseph's River. Afterward there was a Jesuit mission here, which Charlevoix visited in 1721. When the west came into possession of Great Britain, they had a fort also at this point. This was twice captured in the war of the revolution, by expeditions of the brave frontiersmen of Cahokia, Illinois. The annexed sketch of these exploits is thus given in Perkins' Annals, Peck's edition:
“There was at Cahokia, a restless, adventurous, daring man, by the name of Thomas Brady, or as he was familiarly called, ‘Tom Brady;’ a native of Pennsylvania, who, by hunting, or in some other pursuit, found himself a resident of Cahokia. He raised a company of 16 resolute persons, all of Cahokia and the adjacent village of Prairie du Pont, of which the father of Mr. Boismenue, the informant, was one. After becoming organized for an expedition, the party moved through a place called the ‘Cow Pens,’ on the River St. Joseph, in the south-western part of Michigan. Here was a trading-post and fort originally established by the French, but since the transfer of the country, had been occupied by the British by a small force, as a protection of their traders from the Indians, In 1777, it consisted of 21 men.
Brady, with his little band of volunteers, left Cahokia about the 1st of October, 1777, and made their way to the fort, which they captured in the night, without loss on either side, except, a negro. This person was a slave from some of the colonies on the Mississippi, who, in attempting to escape, was shot. One object of this expedition, probably, was the British goods in the fort.
The company started back as far as the Calumet, a stream on the border of Indiana, south-east of Chicago, when they were overtaken by a party of British, Canadians and Indians, about 300 in number, who attacked the Cahokians and forced them to surrender. Two of Brady's party were killed, two wounded, one escaped, and 12 were made prisoners. These remained prisoners in Canada two years, except Brady, who made his escape, and returned to Illinois by way of Pennsylvania. M. Boismenue, Sr., was one of the wounded men.
72
The next spring, a Frenchman, by the name of Paulette Maize, a daring fellow, raised about 300 volunteers from Cahokia, St. Louis, and other French villages, to re-capture the fort on the River St. Joseph. This campaign was by land, across the prairies in the spring of 1778. It was successful; the fort was re-taken, and the peltries and goods became the spoil of the victors. The wounded men returned home with Maize. One gave out; they had no horses; and he was dispatched by the leader, to prevent the company being detained on their retreat, lest the same disaster should befall them as happened to Brady, and his company. Some of the members of the most ancient and respectable families in Cahokia, were in this expedition. Thomas Brady became the sheriff of the county of St. Clair, after its organization by the governor of the North-western Territory in 1790. He was regarded as a trust-worthy citizen, and died at Cahokia many years since.”
Almont, Mt. Clemens, Romeo, Allegan, and Grand Haven, are flourishing towns in the Southern Peninsula of Michigan.
Almont
is in Lapeer county, 49 miles north of Detroit.
Mt. Clemens
is the county seat of Macomb, and is 20 miles from Detroit, on Clinton River, 4 miles from its entrance into Lake St. Clair. It is well situated for ship building, and has daily steamboat communication with Detroit.
Romeo
is also on Clinton River, 40 miles from Detroit.
Allegan
, distant from Kalamazoo 28 miles, at the head of navigation on Kalamazoo River, is a young and thrifty lumbering village.
Grand Haven
is at the mouth of Grand River, at the termination of the Detroit and Milwaukie Railroad. It has a noble harbor, and does an enormous lumber trade. Lumber is shipped from here to Chicago, and other ports on the west side of the lake; and steamers ply regularly between this point and Chicago, and also on the river to the flourishing city of Grand Rapids, above.
The Isle, Mackinaw.
Engraved from a drawing by the late Francis Howe, of Chicago, taken about the year 1846.
Mackinaw,
called
“the Gem of the Lakes,”
is an exquisitely beautiful island in the straits of Mackinaw. It is, by water, 320 miles north of Detroit,missi
or
missil
, signifying “great,” and Mackinac, the Indian word for “turtle,” from a fancied resemblance to a great turtle lying upon the water.
Among the curiosities of the island, are the Arched Rock, the Natural Pyramid, and the Skull Rock. The
Arched Rock
is a natural arch projecting from the precipice on the north-eastern side of the island, about a mile from the town, and elevated 140 feet above the water. Its abutments are the calcareous rock common to the island, and have been created by the falling down of enormous masses of rock, leaving the chasm. It is about 90 feet in hight, and is crowned by an arch of near 60 feet sweep. From its great elevation, the view through the arch upon the wide expanse of water, is of singular beauty and grandeur. The
Natural Pyramid
is a lone standing rock, upon the top of the bluff, of probably 30 feet in width at the base, by 80 or 90 in hight, of a rugged appearance, and supporting in its crevices a few stunted cedars. It pleases chiefly by its novelty, so unlike anything to be found in other parts of the world; and on the first view, it gives the idea of a work of art. The
Skull Rock
is chiefly noted for a cavern, which appears to have been an ancient receptacle of human bones. The entrance is low and narrow. It is here that Alexander Henry was secreted by a friendly Indian, after the horrid massacre of the British garrison at
old
Machilimackinac, in 1763.
The Arched Rock,
On the Isle of Mackinaw.
“The world,” says the poet Bryant, “has not many islands so beautiful as Mackinaw—the surface is singularly irregular with summits of rocks and pleasant hollows, open glades of pasturage, and shady nooks.”
It is, in truth, one of the most interesting spots on the continent, and is becoming a great summer resort, from its natural attractions; its bracing, invigorating atmosphere, and the beauty of its scenery. Its sky has a wonderful clearness and serenity, and its cold deep waters a marvelous purity, that enables one to discover the pebbles way down, fathoms below. To mount the summits of Mackinaw, and gaze out northward upon the expanse of water, with its clustering islets, and the distant wilderness of the Northern Peninsula; to take in with the vision the glories of that sky, so clear, so pure, that it seems as though the eye penetrated infinity; to inhale that life-giving air, every draught of which seems a luxury, were well worth a toilsome journey, and when once experienced, will remain among the most pleasant of memories.
The island is about nine miles in circumference, and its extreme elevation above the lake, over 300 feet. The town is pleasantly situated around a small bay at the southern extremity of the island, and contains 1,000 inhabitants, which are sometimes nearly doubled by the influx of voyagers, traders, and Indians. On these occasions, its beautiful harbor is seen checkered with American vessels at anchor, and Indian canoes rapidly shooting
The first white settlement in this vicinity was at Point Ignace, the southern cape of the upper peninsula of Michigan, and shown on the map where Father Marquette established a mission in 1671.
The second site was on the opposite point of the straits, now called Old Mackinaw, nine miles south, being the northern extremity of the lower peninsula, or Michigan Proper.
“In the summer of 1679, the Griffin, built by La Salle and his company on the shore of Lake Erie, at the present site of the town of Erie, passed up the St. Clair, sailed over the Huron, and entering the straits, found a safe harbor at Old Mackinaw. La Salle's expedition passed eight or nine years at this place, and from hence they penetrated the country in all directions. At the same time it continued to be the summer resort of numerous Indian tribes, who came here to trade and engage in the wild sports and recreations peculiar to the savage race. As a city of peace, it was regarded in the same light that the ancient Hebrews regarded their cities of refuge, and among, those who congregated here all animosities were forgotten. The smoke of the calumet of peace always ascended, and the war cry never as yet has been heard in its streets.
In Heriot's Travels, published in 1807, we find the following interesting item: “In 1671 Father Marquette came hither with a party of Hurons, whom he prevailed on to form a settlement. A fort was constructed, and it afterward became an important spot. It was the place of general assemblage for all the French who went to traffic with the distant nations. It was the asylum of all savages who came to exchange their furs for merchandise. When individuals belonging to tribes at war with each other came thither, and met on commercial adventure, their animosities were suspended.”
“Notwithstanding San-ge-man and his warriors had braved the dangers of the straits and had slain a hundred of their enemies whose residence was here, yet it was not in the town that they were slain. No blood was ever shed by Indian hands within its precincts up to this period, and had it remained in possession of the French, the terrible scenes subsequently enacted within its streets would in all probability never have occurred, and Old Mackinaw would have been a city of refuge to this day.
Ruins Of Old Fort Mackinaw.
Drawn by Capt. S. Eastman, U.S.A. Mackinaw Island is seen on the right: Point St. Ignace, on the north side of the straits, on the left.
The English, excited by the emoluments derived from the fur trade, desired to secure a share in this lucrative traffic of the north-western lakes. They accordingly, in the year 1686, fitted out an expedition, and through the interposition of the Fox Indians, whose friendship they secured by valuable presents, the expedition
The following interesting description, from Parkman's “History of the Conspiracy of Pontiac,” of a voyage by an English merchant to Old Mackinaw about this time, will be in place here: “Passing the fort and settlement of Detroit, he soon enters Lake St. Clair, which seems like a broad basin filled to overflowing, while along its far distant verge a faint line of forests separates the water from the sky. He crosses the lake, and his voyagers next urge his canoe against the current of the great river above. At length Lake Huron opens before him, stretching its liquid expanse like an ocean to the furthest horizon. His canoe skirts the eastern shore of Michigan, where the forest rises like a wall from the water's edge, and as he advances onward, an endless line of stiff and shaggy fir trees, hung with long mosses, fringe the shore with an aspect of desolation. Passing on his right the extensive Island of Bois Blanc, he sees nearly in front the beautiful Island of Mackinaw rising with its white cliffs and green foliage from the broad breast of waters. He does not steer toward it, for at that day the Indians were its only tenants, but keeps along the main shore to the left, while his voyagers raise their song and chorus. Doubling a point he sees before him the red flag of England swelling lazily in the wind, and the palisades and wooden bastions of Fort Mackinaw standing close upon the margin of the lake. On the beach canoes are drawn up, and Canadians and Indians are idly lounging. A little beyond the fort is a cluster of white Canadian houses roofed with bark and protected by fences of strong round pickets. The trader enters the gate and sees before him an extensive square area, surrounded by high palisades. Numerous houses, barracks, and other buildings form a smaller square within, and in the vacant place which they inclose appear the red uniforms of British soldiers, the gray coats of the Canadians and the gaudy Indian blankets mingled in picturesque confusion, while a multitude of squaws, with children of every hue, stroll restlessly about the place. Such was old Fort Mackinaw in 1763.”
In 1763, during the Pontiac war, Old Mackinaw, or Michilimackinac, was the scene of a horrid massacre, the fort being at the time garrisoned by the British. It had come into their possession after the fall of Quebec, in 1759. It inclosed an area. of two acres, surrounded by pickets of cedar. It stood near the water, and with western winds, the waves dashed against the foot of the stockade. Within the pickets were about thirty houses with families, and also a chapel, in which religious services were regularly performed by a Jesuit missionary. Furs from the upper lakes were collected here for transportation, and outfits prepared for the remote north-west. The garrison consisted of 93 men; there were only four English merchants at the fort. Alexander Henry was invested with the right of trafficking with the Indians, and after his arrival was visited by a body of 60 Chippewas, whose chieftain,
Minavavana
, addressed him and his companions in the following manner:
Englishmen, it is to you that I speak, and I demand your attention. You know that the French King is our father. He promised to be such, and we in turn promised to be his children. This promise we have kept, It is you that have made war with this our father. You are his enemy, and how then could you have the boldness to venture among us, his children. You know that his enemies are ours. We are informed that our father, the King of France, is old and infirm, and that being fatigued with making war upon your nation, he has fallen asleep. During this sleep you have taken advantage of him, and possessed yourselves of Canada. But his nap is almost at an end. I think I hear him already stirring and inquiring for his children, and when he does awake what must become of you? He will utterly destroy you. Although you have conquered the French, you have not con. quered us. We are not your slaves. These lakes, these woods and mountains are left to us by our ancestors, they are our inheritance and we will part with them to none. Your nation supposes that we like the white people, can not live without bread, and pork, and beef, but you ought to know that He, the Great Spirit and
Our father, the King of France, employed our young men to make war upon your nation. In this warfare many of them have been killed, and it is our custom to retaliate until such time as the spirits of the slain are satisfied. But the spirits of the slain are to be satisfied in one of two ways; the first is by the spilling the blood of the nation by which they fell, the other by covering the bodies of the dead, and thus allaying the resentment of their relations. This is done by making presents. Your king has never sent us any presents, nor entered into any treaty with us, wherefore he and we are still at war, and until he does these things we must consider that we have no other father or friend among the white men than the King of France. But for you, we have taken into consideration that you have ventured among us in the expectation that we would not molest you. You do not come around with the intention to make war. You come in peace to trade with us, and supply us with necessaries, of which we are much in need. We shall regard you, therefore, as a brother, and you may sleep tranquilly without fear of the Chippewas. As a token of friendship we present you with this pipe to smoke.
Previous to the attack the Indians were noticed assembling in great numbers, with every appearance of friendship, ostensibly for the purpose of trade, and during one night 400 lay about the fort. In order to celebrate the king's birth day, on the third of June, a game of ball was proposed to be played between the Chippewas and Sacs for a high wager. Having induced Major Etherington, the commandant, and many of the garrison to come outside the pickets to view the game, it was the design of the Indians to throw the ball within the pickets, and, as was natural in the heat of the game, that all the Indians should rush after it. The stratagem was successful—the war cry was raised, seventy of the garrison were murdered and scalped, and the remainder were taken prisoners.
“Henry witnessed the dreadful slaughter from his window, and being unarmed he hastened out, and springing over a low fence which divided his house from that of M. Langlade, the French Interpreter, entered the latter, and requested some one to direct him to a place of safety. Langlade hearing the request, replied that he could do nothing for him. At this moment a slave belonging to Langlade, of the Pawnee tribe of Indians, took him to a door which she opened, and informed him that it led to the garret where he might conceal himself. She then locked the door and took away the key. Through a hole in the wall Henry could have a complete view of the fort. He beheld the heaps of the slain, and heard the savage yells, until the last victim was dispatched. Having finished the work of death in the fort, the Indians went out to search the houses. Some Indians entered Langlade's house and asked if there were any Englishmen concealed in it. He replied that he did not know, they might search for themselves. At length they opened the garret door and ascended the stairs, but Henry had concealed himself amid a heap of birch-bark vessels, which had been used in making maple sugar, and thus escaped. Fatigued and exhausted, he lay down on a mat and went to sleep, and while in this condition he was surprised by the wife of Langlade, who remarked that the Indians had killed all the English, but she hoped he might escape. Fearing, however, that she would fall a prey to their vengeance if it was found that an Englishman was concealed in her house, she at length revealed the place of Henry's concealment, giving as a reason therefor, that if he should be found her children would be destroyed. Unlocking the door, she was followed by several Indians, who were led by Wenniway, a noted chief. At sight of him the chief seized him with one hand, and brandishing a large carving knife
was about to plunge it into his heart, when he dropped his arm, saying, “I won't kill you. My brother, Musinigon, was slain by the English, and you shall take his place and be called after him.” He was carried to L'Arbre Croche as a prisoner, where he was rescued by a band of three hundred Ottawas, by whom he was returned to Mackinaw, and finally ransomed by his friend Wawatam. At the capture of the place only one trader, M. Tracy, lost his life. Capt. Etherington was carried away by some Indians
Map of Mackinaw an vicinity.
The station on the island was called
New
Mackinaw, while the other, on the main land, has since been termed Old Mackinaw. The chapel, fort, and college, at the latter place, have long since passed away, but relics of the stone walls and pickets remain to this day. To the Catholic, as the site of their first college in the north-west, and one of their earliest mission stations, this must be ever a spot of great interest.
New Mackinaw formerly received its greatest support from the fur trade, when in the hands of the late John Jacob Astor, being at that time the outfitting and furnishing place for the Indian trade. This trade became extinct in 1834, and the place since has derived its support mainly from the fisheries. The Isle of Mackinaw, in modern times, has been a prominent point for Protestant missions among the Indians. The first American missionary was the Rev. David Bacon, who settled here in 1802, under the auspices of the Connecticut Missionary Society, the oldest, it is believed, in America. This gentleman was the father of Dr. Leonard Bacon, the eminent New England divine, who was born in Michigan. Prior to settling at Mackinaw, Mr. Bacon attempted to establish a mission upon the Maumee. The Indians in council listened to his arguments for this object, with due courtesy: and then, through one of their chiefs, Little Otter, respectfully declined. The gist of the reply is contained in the following sentence:
Brother
—
Your religion is very good, but it is only good for white people. It will not do for Indians: they are quite a different sort of folks.
Old Mackinaw, or Mackinack, is the site of a recently laid out town,
Mackinaw City
, which, its projectors reason, bids fair to become eventually an important point. Ferris says, in his work on the west: “If one were to point out, on the map of North America, a site for a great central city in the lake region, it would be in the immediate vicinity of the Straits of Mackinaw. A city so located would have the command of the mineral trade, the fisheries, the furs, and the lumber of the entire north. It might become the metropolis of a great commercial empire. It would be the Venice of the Lakes.” The climate would seem to forbid such a consummation; but the temperature of this point, softened by the vast adjacent bodies of water, is much milder than one would suppose from its latitude: north of this latitude is a part of Canada which now contains a million of inhabitants. Two important railroads, running through the whole of the lower peninsula of Michigan, are to terminate at this point—one passing through Grand Rapids, and the other through Saginaw City. These are building by the aid of extensive land grants from the general government to the state, and are to give southern Michigan a constant communication with the mineral region in the upper peninsula, from which she is now ice locked five or six months in the year, and which, in time is destined to support a large and prosperous population. The mineral region is also to have railroad communications through Wisconsin south, and through Canada east to the Atlantic, extensive land grants having been made by the American and Canadian governments for these objects, comprising in all many millions of acres.
The
Beaver Islands
are a beautiful cluster of Islands in Lake Michigan, in the vicinity of Mackinaw. Big Beaver, the largest of them, contains about 25,000 acres, and until within a few years was in the possession of a band of Mormons.
When the Mormons were driven from Nauvoo, in 1845, they were divided into three factions—the Twelveites, the Rigdonites, and the Strangites. The Twelveltes were those who emigrated to Utah, the Rigdonites were the followers of Sidney Rigdon, and were but few in number, and the Strangites made Beaver Island their headquarters. Their leader, Strang, a young lawyer originally of western N. York, claimed to have a revelation from God, appointing him the successor of Joe Smith. “These Mormons held the entire control of the main island, and probably would have continued to do so for some time, but from the many depredations committed by them, the neighboring fishermen and others living and trading on the coasts, became determined to root out this band of robbers and pirates, as they believed them to be.
Sault De Ste. Marie,
the county seat of Chippewa county, is situated on St. Marys River, or Strait, 400 miles of Detroit, and about 18 from the entrance of Lake Superior. The village has an elevated situation, at the Falls of St. Mary, and contains about 1,000 inhabitants. It is a famous fishing place, immense quantities of white fish being caught and salted here for the markets of the west. The falls are merely rapids, having a descent of 22 feet in a mile. The Sault Ste. Marie is one of the prominent historic localities of the north-west.
The Sault Or Falls Of St. Mary.
The view is looking down the Rapids.
“On the 17th of September, 1641, the Fathers Jogues and Raymbault embarked in their frail birch bark canoes for the Sault Ste. Marie. They floated over the clear waters between the picturesque islands of Lake Huron, and after a voyage of seventeen days arrived at the Sault. Here they found a large assembly of Chippewas. After numerous inquiries, they heard of the Nadowessies, the famed Sioux, who dwelt eighteen days' journey further to the west, beyond the Great Lake. Thus did the religious zeal of the French bear the cross to the banks of the St. Mary and the confines of Lake Superior, and look wistfully toward the homes of the Sioux in the valley of the Mississippi, five years before the New England Illiott had addressed the tribe of Indians that dwelt within six miles of Boston harbor.”
In 1668, James Marquette and Claude Dablon founded, a mission here. During the whole of the French occupancy of the west, this was a great point for their missions and fur traders. Ia lit the late war with Great Britain, the trading station of the British North-west Fur Company, on the Canadian side, was burnt by Maj. Holmes: this was just before the unsuccessful attack on Mackinaw. Fort Brady, at this place, was built in 1823, and was at the time the most northerly fortress in the United States.
Before the construction of the great canal, the copper from the Lake Superior mines was taken around the falls by railway, the cars being drawn by horses. It has added 1,700 miles of coast to the trade of the lakes, and is of incalculable advantage to the whole of the business of the Lake Superior country.
St. Marys Strait, which separates Canada West from the upper peninsula of Michigan, is about 64 miles long, and is navigable for vessels drawing eight feet of water to within about a mile of Lake Superior. At this point the navigation is impeded by the Falls—the
“sault
” (pronounced
soo
) of the river. Congress offered Michigan 750,000 acres of land to construct a ship canal around these rapids; and the state contracted to give these lands, free of taxation for five years, to Erastus Corning and others, on condition of building the canal by the 19th of May, 1855. The work was completed in style superior to anything on this continent, and the locks are supposed to be the largest in the world. The cabal is 12 feet deep, being mostly excavated through solid sandstone rock It is 100 feetwide at the top of the water, and 115 at the top of its banks; and the largest steamboats
The
Upper Peninsula
, or Lake Superior country, of Michigan, has, of late years, attracted great attention from its extraordinary mineral wealth, especially in copper and iron. The territory comprised in it, together with that portion of the Lake Superior region belonging to the state of Wisconsin, has interests so peculiar to itself, that the project of ceding this whole tract, by the legislatures of Wisconsin and Michigan, to the general government, for the purpose of erecting a new state to be called
Superior,
has been seriously agitated and may, in some not distant future, be consummated.
Lake Superior, the largest body of fresh water on the globe, is an object of interest to the traveler. It is 1,500 miles in circumference, and in some parts more than a thousand feet in depth. Among its many islands Isle Royal is the largest, being nearly of the size of the state Connecticut. The country along the lake is one of the most dreary imaginable. Everywhere its surface is rocky and broken; but the high hills, the rugged precipices, and the rocky shores, with their spare vegetation, are relieved by the transparency and purity of the waters that wash their base; these are so clear that the pebbles can often be distinctly seen at the depth of thirty feet. A boat frequently appears as if suspended in the air, so transparent is the liquid upon which it floats. Among the natural curiosities, the Pictured Rocks and the Doric Arch, on the south shore near the cast end, are prominent. The first are a series of lofty bluffs, of a light gray sandstone, 300 feet high, which continue for twelve miles along the shore. They consist of a group of overhanging precipices, towering walls, caverns, waterfalls, and prostrate ruins. The Doric Arch is an isolated mass of sandstone, consisting of four natural pillars, supporting an entablature of the same material, and presenting the appearance of a work of art. The waters of Lake Superior, being remarkably pure, abound with fish, particularly trout, sturgeon and white fish, which are an extensive article of commerce. The siskowit of Lake Superior, supposed to be a cross of the trout and white fish, is considered by epicures to possess the finest flavor of any fish in the world, fresh or salt, and to which the brook trout can boar no comparison. It loses its delicacy of flavor when salted; its common weight is four pounds, and length 16 inches. So exhilarating is the winter atmosphere here, that it is said that to those who exercise much in the open air, it produces, not unfreqently, an inexpressible elasticity and buoyancy of spirits, that can be compared to nothing else but to the effects of intoxicating drinks.
The climate of the Lake Superior region is not, by any means, so severe as its northern latitude would indicate. A writer, familiar with it says:
“No consideration is, perhaps, more important to those seeking a country suitable for residence and enterprise, than the character of its climate. Health is the first, and comfort the next great object, in selecting a permanent abode. Tested by these qualities, the Lake Superior region presents prominent inducements. Its atmosphere is drier, more transparent and bracing than those of the other states on the same parallel. A healthier region does not exist; here the common diseases of mankind are comparatively unknown. The lightness of the atmosphere has a most invigorating effect upon the spirits, and the breast of the invalid swells with new emotion when he inhales its healthy breezes, as they sweep across the lake. None of the American lakes can compare with Lake Superior in healthfulness of climate during the summer months, and there is no place so well calculated to restore the health of an invalid, who has suffered from the depressing miasms of the fever-breeding soil of the south-western states. This opinion is fast gaining ground among medical men, who are now recommending to their patients the healthful climate of this favored lake, instead of sending them to die in enervating southern latitudes.
The waters of this vast inland sea, covering an area of over 32,000 square miles, exercise a powerful influence in modifying the two extremes of heat and cold.delicate fruits
and plants are raised without injury; while four or five degrees further south, they are destroyed by the early frosts. It is a singular fact, that Lake Superior never freezes in the middle; and along the shores, the ice seldom extends out more than fifteen to twenty miles. The temperature of its waters rarely, if ever change, and are almost always at 40 deg. Fahrenheit—the maximum density of water. I rarely omitted taking a morning bath during my exploring cruises along the south shore of the lake, in the months of August and September, and found the temperature of the water near the shore, much warmer than that along the north shore. I also observed a rise and fall in the water—or a tidular motion, frequently. In midsummer, the climate is delightful beyond comparison, while, at the same time, the air is softly bracing. The winds are variable, and rarely continue for more than two or three days in the same quarter. We have no epidemics, no endemics; miasmatic affections, with their countless ills, are unknown here; and the luster of the languid eye is restored, the paleness of the faded cheek disappears when brought into our midst. The purity of the atmosphere makes it peculiarly adapted to all those afflicted with
pulmonary
complaints, and such a thing as
consumption
produced by the climate, is wholly unknown. Fever and ague, that terrible scourge of Illinois, Kanzas and Iowa, is rapidly driven away before the pure and refreshing breezes which come down from the north-west; and thousands of invalids from the states below, have already found here a safe retreat from their dreaded enemy. It is also a singular fact, that persons suffering from asthma or phthisis, have been greatly relieved, or, in some instances, permanently cured by a residence in this climate. Having had much experience in camping out on the shores of Lake Superior, sleeping constantly on the sandy beach, with and without a tent, a few feet from the water's edge, I would say, give me the open air in summer to the confinement of the best houses ever constructed. It is never very dark in this latitude,. and the northern lights are usually visible every clear night. Although myself and companions were exposed to all kinds of weather on our exploring excursions—with feet wet every day, and nearly all day, sleeping on the beach, exposed to heavy dew, yet not one of the party ever suffered from exposure! Dr. Owen, the celebrated United States geologist, says: ‘At the Pembina settlement (in latitude 49 deg.), to a population of five thousand, there was but a single physician, and he told me, that without an additional salary allowed him by the Hudson Bay Company, the diseases of the settlement would not afford him a living.’”
The Copper districts are Ontonagon, Portage Lake and Kewenaw Point. The principal iron district, Marquette. The principal mines in the Ontonagon district are the Minnesota, Central and Rockland; in the Portage Lake, Pewaubie, Quincy, Franklin and Isle Royale; and in the Kewenaw Point, Cliff, Copper Falls, North-west and Central. The value of the copper product, in 1860, was about three millions of dollars.
The existence of rich deposits of copper in the Lake Superior region, has been known from the earliest times. Father Claude Allouez, the Jesuit missionary, who founded the mission of St. Mary, in 1668, says that the Indians respect this lake as a divinity, and make sacrifices to it, partly, perhaps, on account of its magnitude, or for its goodness in furnishing them with fishes. He farther adds, that beneath its waters pieces of copper are found of from ten to twenty pounds, which the savages often preserved as so many divinities. Other published descriptions speak of it. Charlevoix, who visited the west in 1722, says that the copper here is so pure that one of the monks, who was bred a goldsmith, made from it several sacramental articles.
Recent developments show that the mines were probably worked by the same mysterious race who, anterior to the Indians, built the mounds and ancient works of the west. In the latter have been found various copper trinkets bespangled with silver scales, a peculiar feature of the Lake Superior copper, while on the shores of the lake itself, abandoned mines, filled by the accumulation of ages, have recently been re-opened, the existence of which was unknown, even to the traditions
The Copper and Iron Region on Lake Superior.
The first Englishman who ever visited the copper region was Alex. Henry, the trader. In August, 1765, he was shown by the Indians a mass of pure copper, on Ontonagon River, ten miles from its mouth, that weighed 3,800 pounds; it is now in Washington City, and forms part of the Washington monument. He cut off a piece of 100 lbs. weight with an axe. The first mining company on Lake Superior was organized by this enterprising explorer. In 1770, he, with two others, having interested the Duke of Gloucester and other English noblemen, built a barge at Point aux Pius, and laid the keel of a sloop of forty tuns. They were in search of gold and silver, and expected to make their fortunes. The enterprise failed, and the American Revolution occurring, for a time caused the mineral resources of the country to be forgotten.
Dr. Franklin, commissioner for negotiating the peace between England and her lost colonies, purposely drew the boundary line through Lake Superior, so as to throw this rich mineral region, of the existence of which he was then aware, within the possession of the United States. He afterward stated that future generations would pronounce this the greatest service he had ever given to his country.
The celebrated Connecticut-born traveler, Capt. Jonathan Carver, visited these regions in 1769, and in his travels dwells upon their mineral wealth. The first definite information in regard to the metallic resources of Lake Superior, was published in 1841, by Dr. Douglas Houghton, geologist to the state of Michigan. In 1843, the Indian title to the country was extinguished by a treaty with the Chippewas, and settlers came in, among them several Wisconsin miners, who selected large tracts of land, * By an act of congress, in 1850,the mineral lands of Lake Superior were thrown into market, with the right of
pre-emption, as to occupants of other public lands; and to occupants and lessees, the privilege of purchasing one full section at the minimum price of $2 50 per acre.
The first mining operations brought to light many masses of native copper which contained silver. This caused great excitement in the eastern cities, and, with the attendant exaggerations, brought on
“the copper fever,”
so that the next year, 1845, the shores of Keweenaw Point were whitened with the tents of speculators. The next year the fever reached its hight, and speculations in worthless stocks continued until 1847, when the bubble had burst. Many were ruined, and the country almost deserted, and of the many companies formed few only had actually engaged in mining. They were, mostly, merely stock gambling schemes. Now, about one third of all the copper produced on the globe comes from this region. Such is its surprising richness, that the day may not be very distant when its annual product will exceed the present product from all the other mines worked by man combined.
We continue this subject from a valuable article, published in 1860, in the Detroit Tribune, on the copper and iron interest of Michigan. The notes are entirely from other sources:
This great interest of Michigan was first brought into public notice by the enormous speculations and the mad fever of 1845. The large spur of country which projects far out into the lake, having its base resting on a line drawn across from L'Anse Bay to Ontonagon, and the Porcupine Mountains for its spine, became the El Dorado of all copperdom of that day. In this year the first active operations were commenced at the Cliff Mine, just back of Eagle River harbor. Three years later, in 1848, work was undertaken at the Minesota, some fifteen miles back from the lake at Ontonagon.
The history of the copper mines on Lake Superior shows that even the best mines disappointed the owners in the beginning. We give the facts relative to the three mines at present in the Lake Superior region to illustrate this. The Cliff Mine was discovered in 1845, and worked three years without much sign of success; it changed hands at the very moment when the vein was opened which proved afterward to be so exceedingly rich in copper and silver producing now on an average 1,500 tuns of stamp, barrel, and mass copper per annum.
The Minesota Mine was discovered in 1848, and for the first three years gave no very encouraging results. The first large mass of native copper of about seven tuns was found in a pit made by an ancient race. After that discovery much money was spent before any further indications of copper were found. This mine yields now about 2,000 tuns of copper per annum, and declared for the year 1858 a net dividend of $300,000. The dividends paid since 1852 amount to upward of $1,500,000 on a paid up capital of $66,000.
* The cost to the stockholders of the Cliff Mine was $18 50 per share on 6,000 shares, and the total cash paid in was $110,905. The highest selling price per share has been $245. The years 1845, 1846 and 1847 not a dollar of returns came from the enterprise. In 1848 the mine was so far opened as to be worked with profit. Since then the dividends in round numbers have been, in 1849, $60,000; 1850, $84,000; 1851, $60,000; 1852, $60,000; 1853, $90,000; 1854, $108,000; 1855, $78,000; 1856, $180,000; 1857, $180,000; and 1858, $209,000. Up to Jan. 1, 1859, the dividends paid stockholders, added to the cash, copper and copper ore on hand, amounted to over $3,700,000.
The cost to the stockholders of the Minesota Mine was $3 per share on 20,000 shares, and the total cash paid in, as above stated, $66,000. The highest selling price per share has been $110. In 1848, $14,000 was expended, and $1,700 worth of copper produced; in 1849, expenditures, $28,000, copper produced, $14,000; 1850, expenditures, $58,000, copper produced, $29,000; in 1851, expenditures, $88,000, copper produced, $90,000. In 1852, the fifth year from the beginning, the mine had been so far opened that ore in greater quantities could be taken out, and the first dividend was declared; it was $30,000; in 1853, dividend, $60,000; 1854, $90,000; 1855, 200,000; and in 1856, $300,000; since then the dividends have been about $200,000 per annum. In all the stockholders have received more than a million of money for their original investment of $66,000, a fair reward for their five years waiting on a first dividend.
These statistics, astonishing as they may seem, are equaled in mining experience in other countries. That correct information should be disseminated upon this subject, is due to the assistance required for an early development of the immense natural mineral wealth that our country possesses. Hence we lengthen this note by statistics of successful British mines, as given by a writer familiar with the subject:
“He has struck a mine!” is one of those sentences in every one's mouth to indicate extraordinary good fortune. Phrases like these, passing into popular every day use, must originate in some great truth impressed upon the public mind. This expression is doubtless of foreign origin, for the Americans know so little of mining, that all enterprises of this kind are by them reproachfully termed
speculative. Yet, when conducted on correct business principles, and with knowledge, few investments are more certain than those made in this useful branch of industry.
“This statement can now well be believed which has lately been made by the London Mining Journal, that ‘taking all the investments made in that country (England) in mining enterprises (other than coal and iron) good, bad and indifferent, at home and abroad, the returns from the good mines have paid a larger interest upon the
entire outlay than is realized in
any other species of investments.’
“The exact figures are, for mining, an annual interest of 13 1–2 per cent. Other investments 4 8–10 per cent. Amount of dividends paid upon investments in mining, 111 per cent.
This is doubtless owing to the fact that in England mining is treated as a regular business, and is never undertaken by those who are not willing to devote the same attention, time, and money to it, that are considered necessary to the success of any other business.”
We have before us a list of twenty-three English Mining Companies, showing, first, the number of shares of each; second, the cash cost per share; third, the present selling price per share; and fourth, the amount paid in dividends per share. The mines worked are principally copper and lead.
From this list we gather the following facts, which we express in round numbers: These twenty-three companies invested in their enterprises one million and forty thousand dollars. The present value of their property is eight millions of dollars. The shareholders have received in dividends fourteen millions of dollars. The average cost per share was sixty-five dollars. The present selling price per share is five hundred and two dollars; and the amount of dividends received per share, eight hundred and seventy-three dollars.
What other branch of industry will average such returns as these? And is it not owing to the
ignorance of the business men of the United States as to the actual
facts of mining, when legitimately pursued, that has, in a measure, prevented our industry from being partly directed in that channel?
From the list we group some of the most successful of the mines, arranging the statistics so that they can be seen at a glance. They dwarf by comparison all ordinary investments by the immensity of their returns.
Jamaica, Lead Mine. No. of shares 76. Amount paid per share $19. Present price per share, $250. Total amount paid in, $1,444. Present value, $190,000. Increase value on the original investment, thirteen times.
Wheal Basset, Copper. No. of shares, 512. Amount paid per share, $25 25. Present price per share, $2,050. Total amount paid in, $12,800. Present value, $1,049,600. Increase in value, eighty times.
South Caradon, Copper. No. of shares, 256. Cost per share, $12 30. Present price per share, $1,500. Total amount paid in, $3,200. Present value, $384,000. Increase in value, one hundred and twenty-two times.
Wheal Buller, Copper. No. of shares, 256. Amount paid per share., $25. Present price per share, $3,095. Total cash capital, $6,500. Present cash value, $792,000. Increase value, one hundred and twenty-four times.
Devon Great Consols, Copper. No. of shares, 1,024. Amount paid per share, $5. Present price per share, $2,050. Total cash capital, $5,120. Present cash value, $2,099,200. Increase value per share more than four hundred times.
Taking the above five mines together, and the sum of the original cash capital paid in by the stockholders was, in round numbers, seventy-nine thousand dollars, and the present combined value of the investments, reckoning them at the present selling price of the shares, is over
four and a half millions of dollars.
Since the foregoing was written, later statistics than these have come to hand from Gryll's Annual Mining Sheet, containing statistics of the copper mines of Cornwall, for the year ending June 30, 1859.
It appears from these that during the past year the last mentioned mine—the ‘Devon Great Consols,’ turned out 23,748 gross tuns of copper. On the 1st of June last, the lucky shareholders received as their annual dividend $220 per share. That is mine stock worth having; it cost only $5 per share, fifteen years ago, when the mine was first opened.
It is true that these are the successful mines. Mines to be placed in this class must be either ordinary mines managed with great skill, or exceedingly rich mines, which possess naturally such treasures, that they eventually yield immense return in spite of all blunders in management.”
To the above extract we append the remarks that the prominent difficulties in this country, in the way of successful mining, consist in the total ignorance of those who generally engage in the business, most American mining companies proving but more phantoms on which to build airy castles, and most American mines but ugly holes in which to bury money, which, like Kidd's treasure is never found again. None but those used from youth to the business of mining, and for the
very metals mined for, are fit to conduct the business. Nothing but the mechanical education to open a mine, and the skill to work the machinery, united with a knowledge of geology and chemistry, and more especially that intricate and delicate branch,
metallurgy, joined to extraordinary executive skill in the business management, will conduct an enterprise of the kind to any but a disastrous issue.
Aside from this, such has been the selfishness, ignorance and neglect of those persons in this country who have had the control of these enterprises, that let any mine promise ever so fairly, an investment in its stock is now regarded as silly as a purchase in a lottery. It is said that six millions of dollars were lost during “the
copper fever” on Lake Superior, much of it indirectly stolen by smooth talking gentlemen, regarded as reputable among their neighbors.
The same has been experienced at the Pewabic Mine. That mine commenced operations in the year 1855, with an expenditure of $26,357, which produced $1,080 worth of copper; the second year it expended $40,820, and produced $31,492 of copper; in 1857, $54,484 of expenses produced $44,058 worth of copper; in
Outline view of the Minnesota Mine.
The view shows only a small part of the surface works. The aggregate extent of openings under ground throughout the mine, by shafts and levels, is 31,893 feet, or over six miles in extent. The deepest shaft is 712 feet. The entire working force at the mine is 718, and the total population supported there by it 1,215.
It is scarcely ten years that mining has been properly commenced in that remote region. At that time it was difficult, on account of the rapids of St. Marys River, to approach it by water with large craft. Being more than a thousand miles distant from the center of the Union, destitute of all the requirements for the development of mines, every tool, every part of machinery, every mouthful of provision had to be hauled over the rapids, boated along the shores for hundreds of miles to the copper region, and there often carried on the back of man and beast to the place where copper was believed to exist. Every stroke of the pick cost tenfold more than in populated districts; every disaster delayed the operations for weeks and months.
The opening of the Sault Canal has changed all this and added a wonderful impetus to the business, the mining interests, and the development of the Lake Superior country. Nearly one hundred different vessels, steam and sail, have been
The same facts of development would hold generally true, with regard to the other industrial interests of that vast country.
It remains yet almost wholly “a waste, howling wilderness.” At Marquette, Portage Lake, Copper Harbor, Eagle River, Eagle Harbor, and Ontonagon, and the mines adjacent, are the only places where the primeval forests had given place to the enterprise of man, and these, in comparison with the whole extent of territory embraced in this region, are but mere insignificant patches. What this country may become years hence, it would defy all speculations now to predict, but there seems no reason to doubt that it will exceed the most sanguine expectations.
The copper region is divided into three districts, viz: the Ontonagon the Keweenaw Point, and the Portage Lake. Each district has some peculiarities of product, the first developing more masses, while the latter are more prolific in vein-rock, the copper being scattered throughout the rock.
There have been since 1845 no less than 116 copper mining companies organized under the general law of Michigan. The amount of capital invested and now in use, or which has been paid out in explorations and improvements, and lost, is estimated by good judges at $6,000,000. The nominal amount of capital stock invested in all the companies which have charters would reach an indefinite number of millions. As an offset to this, it may be stated that the Cliff and Minnesota mines have returned over $2,000,000 in dividends from the beginning of their operations, and the value of these two mines will more than cover the whole amount spent in mining, and for all the extravagant undertakings which have been entered upon and abandoned. While success has been the exception and failure the rule in copper speculations, yet it must be admitted that these exceptions are remarkably tempting ones. Doubtless there is immense wealth still to be developed in these enterprises, and this element of wealth in the Lake Superior region is yet to assume a magnitude now unthought of.
The copper is smelted mainly in Detroit, Cleveland and Boston, the works in Detroit being the largest. There is one establishment at Pittsburg which does most of the smelting for the Cliff Mine; one at Bergen, N. Y., and one at New Haven, Ct. There are two at Baltimore, but they are engaged on South American mineral. The Bruce Mines, on the Canada side of Lake Huron, have recently put smelting works in operation on their location. Prior to this the mineral was barreled up and shipped to London, being taken over as ballast in packet ships at low rates.
The amount of copper smelted in Detroit we can only judge by the amount landed here, but this will afford a pretty accurate estimate. The number of tuns landed here, in 1859, was 3,088. The copper yield of Lake Superior will produce between 60 and 70 per cent. of ingot copper, which is remarkably pure. The net product of the mines for 1859 is worth in the markets of the world nearly or quite $2,000,000. This large total shows the capabilities of this region and affords us some basis of calculation as to the value and probable extent of its future developments. Beside this amount, already noticed, as landed at Detroit, there were 1,268 tuns brought there from the Bruce Mines, and sent to London.
There are indications that Michigan is slowly but surely taking the rank to which she is entitled, in the manufacture as well as production of
Iron.
The first shipment of pig iron of any consequence was made by the Pioneer Company in the fall of 1858.
The Lake Superior iron has been proclaimed the best in the world, a proposition that none can successfully refute. Its qualities are becoming known in quarters where it would naturally be expected its superiority would be admitted reluctantly, if at all. It is now sent to New York and Ohio, and even to Pennsylvania—an agency for its sale having been established in Pittsburg. For gearing, shafting, cranks, flanges, and, we ought by all means to add, car wheels, no other should be used, provided it can be obtained.
A large amount of capital is invested in the iron interest in Michigan,—over two millions of dollars.
Marquette is the only point on Lake Superior where the iron ore deposits have been worked. There are deposits of iron in the mountains back of L'Anse, but this wonderful region leaves nothing more to be desired for the present. At a distance of eighteen miles from the lake, are to be found iron mountains, named the Sharon, Burt, Lake Superior, Cleveland, Collins, and Barlow, while eight miles further back lie the Ely and St. Clair mountains. Three of these mountains are at present worked, the Sharon, the Cleaveland, and the Lake Superior, and contain enough ore to supply the world for generations to come. The mountains further back embrace tracts of hundreds of acres rising to a hight of from four to six hundred feet, which there is every reason to believe, from the explorations made, are solid iron ore. The extent of the contents of these mountains is perfectly fabulous, in fact, so enormous as almost to baffle computation. The ore, too, is remarkably rich, yielding about seventy per cent. of pure metal. There are now in operation at Marquette three iron mining companies and two blast furnaces for making charcoal pig iron, the Pioneer and Meigs. The Pioneer has two stacks and a capacity of twenty tuns pig iron per day; the Meigs one stack, capable of turning out about eleven tuns. The Northern Iron Company is building a large bituminous coal furnace at the mouth of the Chocolate River, three miles south of Marquette, which will be in operation early in the summer.
Each of the mining companies, the Jackson, Cleveland and Lake Superior, have docks at the harbor for shipment, extending out into the spacious and beautiful bay which lies in front of Marquette, to a sufficient length to enable vessels of the largest dimensions to lie by their side and be loaded directly from the cars, which are run over the vessels and “dumped” into shutes, which are made to empty directly into the holds. The process of loading is therefore very expeditious and easy.
The amount of shipments of ore for 1859, from Marquette to the ports below, reaches 75,000 gross tuns in round numbers, and the shipments of pig iron, 6,000 gross tuns more. To this must be added the amount at Marquette when navigation closed, the amount at the mines ready to be brought down, and the amount used on the spot. This will give a total product of the iron mines of Michigan, for the past year, of between
ninety and one hundred thousand tuns.
These mining companies simply mine and ship the ore and sell it. Their profit ranges between seventy-five cents and one dollar per tun.
The quality of the iron of Lake Superior is conceded by all to be the best in the world, as the analysis of Prof. Johnston, which we reproduce, shows. The table shows the relative strength per square inch in pounds: Salisbury, Ct., iron, 58,009; Swedish (best), 58,184; English cable, 59,10.5; Centre county, Pa., 59,400; Essex county, N. Y., 59,962; Lancaster county, Pa., 58,661; Russia (best), 76,069; Common English and American, 30,000; Lake Superior, 89,582.
The manufacture of pig iron at Marquette will probably be carried on even more extensively, as the attention of capitalists is directed to it. The business may be extended indefinitely, as the material is without limit, and the demand, thus far, leaving nothing on hand.
These facts exhibit the untold wealth of Michigan in iron alone, and point with certainty to an extent of business that will add millions to our invested capital, dot our state with iron manufactories of all kinds, and furnish regular employment to tens of thousands of our citizens, while our raw material and our wares shall be found in all the principal markets of the world.
In the mining regions are the following towns, the largest of which has 1,200 souls.
Ontonagon
is at the mouth of Ontonagon River, and is the largest mining depot. It is in the vicinity of the Minnesota Mine, and will in time have a railroad connection with Milwaukie and Chicago, and eventually with Cincinnati, heavy grants of land having been made through Michigan to aid in the enterprise: also with the Canadian railroads.
Eagle River
is in the vicinity of the Cliff and several other mines.
Eagle Harbor, Copper Harbor
, and
Fort Wilkins
, the latter a delightful summer resort, all are in the same neighborhood.
Marquette
is the iron city of Lake Superior: a railroad is constructing and partly finished, to connect it with Little Noquet Bay, 117 miles distant, on Lake Michigan.
We conclude this notice of this district by a description of
Life At The Mines,
as given by a visitor to the Cliff.
The situation of the Cliff Mine is one of great picturesqueness. The valley which is about five hundred feet above the level of the lake, is surrounded on three sides by a range
73
The population of the mine location is set down at about twelve hundred persons. Each family has a separate cottage, and is required to take four boarders. This system of dividing the population into small families has been found to work better for the mine, and to be more satisfactory to the miners themselves, than the congregation in large boarding houses. The population consists principally of Cornishmen, the miners being exclusively of that class. The mine “captains” are also old and experienced “captains” from the copper mines of Cornwall, and are a jolly, good tempered set of men. The miners themselves appear to be good humored, sociable, and intelligent in everything relating to their business.
The ordinary labor “at grass” is mostly done by Dutch, Irish, and Canadian French. The breaking of the rock sent up from below is principally done by the Dutch, the Irish are the teamsters, and the French are employed in a variety of ways on the surface. From the intense national antipathy between the Cornish and the Irish, the number of the latter employed is very small. From the fact of the Cliff being so old and extensive a mine, most of the newly arrived Cornish make directly for it, thus giving the managers opportunity to select the best. The Cornish miners at this place are therefore good specimens of their class. Their dialect varies greatly, according to the section of Cornwall from which they come, some speaking with but a slight variation from the usual manner, and others having a vocabulary and intonation of voice that render their conversation bewildering to the uninitiated.
The location comprises three churches, Episcopal, Wesleyan Methodist and Catholic. In addition to the churches there is a well built school house, store, provision warehouse, and other buildings. No tavern or beer shop stands within the location, the sale of alcoholic or spiritous liquors being forbidden within the limits. One or two whisky and beer shops stand beyond the location. Drunkenness is rigidly interdicted anywhere on the company's property. All persons living on the location are treated as belonging to the general family, and are subjected to a code of rules. The miners have a monthly contribution reserved from their wages for the support of the doctor, who attends the miners and their families without additional charge.
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, ETC.
Pontiac
, a chief of the Ottawa tribe, was one of the most remarkable and distinguished men of his race who have figured in history. Maj. Rogers, who knew him and the tribes over whom he held sway, thus speaks of them in 1765: “The Indians on the lakes are generally at peace with each other. They are formed into a sort of empire, and the emperor is selected from the eldest tribe, which is the Ottawas, some of whom inhabit near our fort at Detroit, but are mostly further westward toward the Mississippi.
Ponteack
is their present king or emperor, who certainly has the largest empire and greatest authority of any Indian chief that has appeared on the continent since our acquaintance with it. He puts on an air of majesty and princely grandeur, and is greatly honored and revered by his subjects.”
“About eight miles above Detroit, at the head of the Detroit River, is Pechee Island, a green spot, set amid the clearest waters, surrounded by dense forests, at all times cool from the breezes of the northern lakes, and removed from the rest of the world. Pontiac made this island his summer residence, and in winter lodged at the Ottawa village opposite, on the Canadian bank, and which has been described as having been situated above the town of Detroit. Poetry may imagine him here, musing upon the inroads of the English and the declining fortunes of his race, and looking upon the gorgeous domain which was spread around him, and which now constitutes the most beautiful part of Michigan—as a territory which was soon to pass from his hands. To this land he held a right of pre-emption, the time whereof the memory of man ran not to the contrary; and superadded to this, a patent from the Great Spirit, which established his title on solid ground.”—
Lanman's Michigan.
Pontiac displayed more system in his undertakings than any other of his race of whom we have knowledge. In his war of 1763, which is justly called
“Pontiac's
he appointed a commissary, issued bills of credit, all of which he afterward carefully redeemed. He made his bills or notes of bark, on which was a drawing or figure of what he wanted for it. The shape of an otter, the insignia or arms of his nation was drawn under the required article. After the conquest of Canada by the English, Pontiac sued for peace, which was granted. When the American Revolution commenced, the Americans sent messages to him to meet them in council. He was inclined to do so, but was prevented, from time to time, by Gov. Hamilton, of Detroit. He now appeared to have become the friend of the English, and to reward his attachment, the British government granted him a liberal pension. It is related that his fidelity being suspected, a spy was sent to observe his conduct. As he was acting professedly as a British agent among the Indians in Illinois, the spy discovered that Pontiac, in his speech, was betraying the British interests, and thereupon plunged a knife into his heart.
James Marquette
, the celebrated explorer of the Mississippi, and one of the most zealous of that extraordinary class of men, the Jesuit missionaries, was born in 1637, of a most ancient and honorable family of the city of Laon, France, and entered, at the early age of 17, the Society of Jesus; after studying and teaching for many years, he was invested with the priesthood, upon which he at once sought a mission in some land that knew not God, that he might labor there to his latest breath, and die unaided and alone. His desire was gratified. He founded the missions of St. Marys, St. Ignace and Mackinaw. For nine years he labored among the Indians, and was enabled to preach to them in ten different languages. “In his various excursions,” says Bancroft, “he was exposed to the inclemencies of nature and the savage. He took his life in his hands, and bade them defiance; waded through water and through snows, without the comfort of a fire; subsisted on pounded maize; was freqently without any other food than the unwholesome moss gathered from the rocks; traveled far and wide, but never without peril. Still, said he, life in the wilderness had its charms—his heart swelled with rapture, as he moved over the waters, transparent as the most limpid fountain.”
In May, 1685, as he was returning up Lake Michigan to his little flock at Point Ignace, from one of his missions of love to the Indians of the Illinois, he felt that his final hour was approaching. Leaving his men with the canoe, he landed at the mouth of a stream running from the peninsula, and went a little apart to pray. As much time passed and he did not return, they called to mind that he said something of his death being at hand, and on anxiously going to seek him found him dead where he had been praying. They dug a grave, and there buried the holy man in the sand.
“The Indians of Mackinaw and vicinity, and also those of Kaskaskia, were in great sorrow when the tidings of Marquette's death reached them. Not long after this melancholy event, a large company of Ojibwas, Ottawas, and Hurons, who had been out on a hunting expedition, landed their canoes at the mouth of Marquette River, with the intention of removing his remains to Mackinaw. They had heard of his desire to have his body interred in the consecrated ground of St. Ignatius, and they had resolved that the dying wish of the missionary should be fulfilled. As they stood around in silence and gazed upon the cross that marked the place of his burial, the hearts of the stern warriors were moved. The bones of the missionary were dug up and placed in a neat box of bark made for the occasion, and the numerous canoes which formed a large fleet started from the mouth of the river, with nothing but the sighs of the Indians and the dip of the paddles to break the silence of the scene. As they advanced toward Mackinaw, the funeral cortege was met by a large number of canoes bearing Ottawas, Hurons, and Iroquois, and still others shot out ever and anon to join the fleet.
When they arrived in sight of the Point, and beheld the cross of St. Ignatius as if painted against the northern sky, the missionaries in charge came out to the beach clad in vestments adapted to the occasion. How was the scene hightened when the priests commenced, as the canoe bearing remains of Marquette neared the shore, to chant the requiem for the dead. The whole population was out, entirely covering the beach, and as the procession marched up to the chapel, with cross and prayer, and tapers burning, and laid the bark box beneath a pall made in the form of a coffin, the sons and daughters of the forest wept. After the funeral
‘He was the first and last white man who ever had such an assembly of the wild sons of the forest to attend him to his grave.
‘So many stirring events succeeded each other after this period—first, the war between the English Colonists and the French; then the Colonists with the Indians, the Revolutionary war, the Indian wars, and finally the war of 1812, with the death of all those who witnessed his burial, including the Fathers who officiated at the time, whose papers were lost, together with the total destruction and evacuation of this mission station for many years, naturally obliterated all recollections of the transaction, which accounts for the total ignorance of the present inhabitants of Point St. Ignatius respecting it. The locality of his grave is lost, but only until the archangel's trump, at the last, shall summon him from his narrow grave, with those plumed and painted warriors who now lie around him.’“
Gen. Wm. Hull
was born in Derby, Conn., in 1753, and was educated at Yale College. Entering the army of the Revolution, he performed most valuable services and behaved bravely on many a battle field Washington regarded him as one of his most useful officers. In 1805, when Michigan was erected into a territory, he was appointed by congress its governor. On the outbreak of the war, he was commissioned brigadier general. “In the comparatively weak fort at Detroit,” says Lossing, “he was invested by a strong force of British and Indians; and, to save his command from almost certain destruction, he surrendered the fort, his army of two thousand men, and the territory, to the enemy. For this he was tried for treason and cowardice, and being unable to produce certain official testimony which subsequently vindicated his character, he was found guilty of the latter, and sentenced to be shot. The president of the United States, ‘in consideration of his age and revolutionary services,’ pardoned him, but a cloud was upon his fame and honor. He published a vindicatory memoir, in 1824, which changed public opinion in his favor. Yet he did not live long to enjoy the effects of that change. He died at Newton, on the 29th of November, 1825, at the age of seventy-two years. A Memoir of General Hull, by his daughter and grandson, was published in 1848. It
fully vindicates
the character of the injured patriot, by documentary evidence.”
Stevens Thompson Mason
, the first governor of the
state
of Michigan, was the only son of Gen. John Mason, of Kentucky, but was born in Virginia in 1812. At the early age of 19, he was appointed secretary of the territory of Michigan, and at the age of 22 was acting governor. In 1836, at 24 years of age, he was chosen governor of the new state. He was again elected in 1838, and died in 1843, when only 31 years of age.
Gen. Alexander Macomb
, was the son of an English gentleman, born in the British garrison at Detroit, on the 3d of April, 1782, just at the close of the Revolution. His father subsequently settled at New York. He entered the army as a cornet at an early age, and continued in the service until his death, at Washington in 1841, being at the time general-in-chief. He was succeeded by Winfield Scott. He was an excellent officer, and for his services at the battle of Plattsburg, congress presented him with a vote of thanks and a gold medal.
Dr. Douglas Houghton
was born in Troy, in 1809, and educated for the medical profession. In 1831, he was appointed surgeon and botanist to the expedition sent but by government to explore the sources of the Mississippi, and made an able report upon the botany of the region through which he passed. Settling in Detroit, to practice medicine, he was appointed, in 1837, state geologist. In 1842, he was elected mayor of the city of Detroit, and from its foundation was professor in the State University. His life was one of incessant labor, and he accomplished more than any man living in developing the resources of Michigan, especially its mineral wealth. His reports upon the mineral region of Lake Superior, first aroused the minds of this generation to the vast riches that lie buried beneath its soil. He was drowned in October, 1845, on Lake Superior. While coming down from a portage to Copper Harbor, with his four Indian
voyageurs
, the boat was swampedlamented Houghton,”
even to this day.
Gov. Lewis Cass
was born in Exeter, New Hampshire, Oct. 9, 1782. “Having received a limited education at his native place, at the early age of seventeen, he crossed the Alleghany Mountains on foot, to seek a home in the “great west,” then an almost unexplored wilderness. Settled at Marietta, Ohio, he studied law, and was successful. Elected at twenty-five to the legislature of Ohio, he originated the bill which arrested the proceedings of Aaron Burr, and, as stated by Mr. Jefferson, was the first blow given to what is known as Burr's conspiracy. In 1807, he was appointed, by Mr. Jefferson, marshal of the state, and held the office till the latter part of 1811, when he volunteered to repel Indian aggressions on the frontier. He was elected colonel of the 3d regiment of Ohio volunteers, and entered the military service of the United States, at the commencement of the war of 1812. Having by a difficult march reached Detroit, he urged the immediate invasion of Canada, and was the author of the proclamation of that event. He was the first to land in arms on the enemy's shore, and, with a small detachment of troops, fought and won the first battle, that of the Tarontoe. At the subsequent capitulation of Detroit, he was absent, on important service, and regretted that his command and himself had been included in that capitulation. Liberated on parol, he repaired to the seat of government to report the causes of the disaster, and the failure of the campaign. He was immediately appointed a colonel in the regular army, and, soon after, promoted to the rank of brigadier-general, having, in the mean time, been elected major-general of the Ohio volunteers. On being exchanged and released from parol, he again repaired to the frontier, and joined the army for the recovery of Michigan. Being at that time without a command, he served and distinguished himself, as a volunteer
aid-de-camp to Gen. Harrison, at the battle of the Thames. He was appointed by President Madison, in October, 1813, governor of Michigan. His position combined, with the ordinary duties of chief magistrate of a civilized community, the immediate management and control, as superintendent, of the relations with the numerous and powerful Indian tribes in that region of country. He conducted with success the affairs of the territory under embarrassing circumstances. Under his sway peace was preserved between the whites and the treacherous and disaffected Indians, law and order established, and the territory rapidly advanced in population, resources, and prosperity. He held this position till July, 1831, when he was, by President Jackson, made secretary of war. In the latter part of 1836, President Jackson appointed him minister to France, where he remained until 1842, when he requested his recall, and returned to this country. In January, 1845, he was elected, by the legislature of Michigan, to the senate of the United States; which place he resigned on his nomination, in May, 1848, as a candidate for the presidency, by the political party to which he belongs. After the election of his opponent (General Taylor) to that office, the legislature of his state, in 1849, re-elected him to the senate for the unexpired portion of his original term of six years. When Mr. Buchanan became president, he invited Gen. Cass to the head of the department of state, in which position he has acquitted himself with characteristic ability. He has devoted some attention to literary pursuits, and his writings speeches, and state papers would make several volumes.”
Lanman's Dictionary of U. S. Congress.
Arms Of Wisconsin.
Motto—forward.
Wisconsin
derives its name from its principal river, which the Chippewas, who resided on its head-waters, called the Wees-kon-san, which signifies “gathering of the waters.” The French voyageurs called it
Ouisconsin
, the first syllable of which is nearer the Indian sound than Wis. The first white men on the soil of Wisconsin were two French fur traders, who passed the winter of 1659 among the Indians of Lake Superior. Arriving at Quebec the next summer, with sixty canoes, loaded with furs, and manned with 300 Algonquins, they aroused a spirit of religious zeal among the Jesuits to bear the cross in the cabins of those distant tribes. In 1661, Father Mesnard went on a mission to the south side of Lake Superior, where he resided more than eight months, surrounded by savages and a few French voyageurs: he finally perished, in some unknown way, in the rocky pine clad wilderness. Undismayed by his sad fate a successor was appointed, Father Claude Allouez, who arrived at the Sault Ste. Marie on the 1st of September, 1668. “He employed the whole month of September in coasting the southern portion of Lake Superior, where he met many Christians baptized by Father Mesnard. ‘I had the pleasure,’ says this venerable man, ‘of assuring, by baptism, the eternal salvation of many a dying infant.’ His success with the adults seems to have been less. At Chagouamigon, or St. Michael, on the south-western side of Lake Superior, there were gathered eight hundred warriors of different nations; a chapel was built; among them were several tribes who understood the Algonquin language. So fine an occasion for exercising his zeal could not be overlooked. ‘I spoke in the Algonquin language,’ says he, ‘for a long time, on the subject of the Christian religion, in an earnest and powerful manner, but in language suited to the capacity of my audience. I
Father Marquette had been residing at the Straits of Mackinaw and the Sault Ste. Marie about five years, when, accompanied by M. Joliet, a French gentleman of Quebec, and five French voyageurs and two Indian guides, he started from the straits on an exploring expedition. He “had heard of the great river of the west, and fancied that upon its fertile banks—not mighty cities, mines of gold, or fountains of youth, but whole tribes of God's children, to whom the sound of the Gospel had never come. Filled with the wish to go and preach to them, he obeyed with joy the orders of Talon, the wise intendent of Canada, to lead a party into the unknown distance.”
Marquette passed down Green Bay to Fox River, which they entered, and dragged their canoes through its strong rapids to a village of Indians where Father Allouez had visited, and where “they found a cross, on which hung skins and belts, bows and arrows, which they had offered to the great
Manitou
(God), to thank him because he had taken pity on them during the winter, and had given them abundant chase.” Beyond this point no Frenchman had gone, and here was the bound of discovery.
“Being guided by the friendly Indians, Marquette and his companions came to the Wisconsin River, about three leagues distant, whose waters flowed westward. They floated down the river till the 17th of June, 1673, when they reached the Mississippi, the great
‘Father of Waters,’
which they entered with ‘a joy that could not be expressed,’ and raising their sails to new skies, and to unknown breezes, floated down this mighty river, between broad plains, garlanded with majestic forests and chequered with illimitable prairies and island groves. They descended about one hundred and eighty miles, when Marquette and Joliet landed, and followed an Indian trail about six miles, to a village. They were met by four old men, bearing the pipe of peace and ‘brilliant with many colored plumes.’ An aged chief received them at his cabin, and, with uplifted hands, exclaimed:
‘How beautiful is the sun, Frenchmen, when thou comest to visit us!—our whole village awaits thee— in peace thou shalt enter all our dwellings.
’ Previous to their departure, an Indian chief selected a peace pipe from among his warriors, embellished with gorgeous plumage, which he hung around the neck of Marquette, ‘the mysterious arbiter of peace and war—the sacred calumet—the white man's protection among savages.’ On reaching their boats, the little group proceeded onward. ‘I did not,’ says Marquette, ‘fear death; I should have esteemed it the greatest happiness to have died for the glory of God.’ They passed the mouth of the Missouri, and the humble missionary resolved in his mind, one day, to ascend its mighty current, and ascertain its source; and descending from thence toward the west, publish the gospel to a people of whom he had never heard. Passing onward, they floated by the Ohio, then, and for a brief time after, called the Wabash, and continued their explorations as far south as the mouth of the Arkansas, where they were escorted to the
Wisconsin was next visited by La Salle and Father Hennepin, a Fanciscan friar, a man of ambition and energy. These adventurers having passed down the Illinois, Hennepin paddled up the Mississippi as far as the Wisconsin, where he was taken prisoner by the Indians, who treated him and his companions kindly. They then took them up to the Falls, which Hennepin named
St. Anthony
, in honor of his patron saint. From this point he returned to Canada, by way of Lake Superior, and thence to France. The first permanent settlement by the whites in Wisconsin, appears to have been made at Green Bay, about the year 1745, by Augustin De Langlade, a native of France, of noble family, who emigrated to Canada at an early age.
The territory remained under the government of France till 1763, when, at the treaty of Paris, it was ceded to Great Britain, who retained it until the independence of the United States was acknowledged by that country, in 1783, when it was claimed by Virginia as part of the Illinois country, conquered by Col. George Rodgers Clark. It remained, however, in the possession of Great Britain till 1796, when it was surrendered in accordance with Jay's treaty, ratified the previous year. In 1784, it was ceded by Virginia to the United States. In 1787, a government was provided for the territory north-west of the Ohio. In 1800, it was divided into two separate governments, the western being called Indiana. In 1809, Indiana was divided and Illinois organized. When Illinois was formed into a state, in 1818, the territory north of the parallel of Lat. 42° 30′, west of the middle of Lake Michigan, was attached to the territory of Michigan, which had been set off from Indiana in 1805.
In 1832, commenced the
“Black Hawk War,”
the most important actions of which took place within the
“Huron
District” of Michigan, as Wisconsin was then called: they will be found detailed on page 1106 of this work. When Michigan was formed into a state, in 1836, Wisconsin was erected into a separate territorial government. Wisconsin Territory comprised within its limits and jurisdiction the whole region from Lake Michigan to Lake Superior, extending westward to the Missouri River, including all the sources of the Upper Mississippi. Its southern limits were the northern boundaries of the states of Illinois and Missouri, and its extent from north to south was 580 miles, and from east to west 650 miles. The first “governor and superintendent of Indian affairs” was Henry Dodge, and John S. Horner was territorial secretary. Gov. Dodge convened the first territorial legislature at Belmont, now in Lafayette county. The second session was convened in Burlington, now in Iowa, and the next, in 1838, in Madison, the present capital.
“The settled portions of the territory were chiefly near the western shore of Lake Michigan, and the organized counties extended westward and southwestwardly
The remainder of the Territory of Wisconsin, north and west of the Wisconsin River and of Fox River, as well as the northern and western portions of the present state of Iowa, was a savage waste, still in the partial occupancy of the remaining tribes of Indians, and in a great degree unknown to civilization. Such were the extent and population of the Wisconsin Territory upon its first independent organization.
During the years 1841, 1842, and 1843, emigration from the north-eastern states began to send its floods into the Wisconsin Territory, both by way of the lakes and by way of the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers, to the banks of the Wisconsin River. Thousands, especially in the latter years, crowded into the beautifully undulating lands along the western shore of Lake Michigan, south of Green Bay, to the Illinois line; and population extended rapidly from the lake shore westward to the banks of Fox River, and along the region south of the Wisconsin River as far as the banks of the Mississippi. Settlements soon spread over this delightful country, diversified by lakes and prairies, in which all the crystal tributaries of Rock River take their rise.
A few years before, this had been called the “Far West,” beyond the advance of white settlements and civilized life, in the sole occupancy of the most degraded and improvident of the savages, the Winnebagoes, Sauks, and Foxes. Now towns and commerce occupy the seats and haunts of the degraded Indian, upon which the rays of civilization had never beamed. A large mercantile town, with an active and enterprising community, had sprung up at Milwaukie Bay; a town which, three years afterward, in 1845, became an incorporated city, with extensive powers and privileges, designed to render it the commercial emporium of the future state of Wisconsin. Other trading towns lined the beautiful shore of the lake for many miles north and south of this central depot.
During the year 1843, the aggregate number of persons who arrived in the Wisconsin Territory has been estimated at more than sixty thousand, embracing all ages and sexes. Of these, about fifty thousand arrived by way of the lake route. The remainder advanced by way of the Mississippi and Wisconsin Rivers, and comprised a great proportion of foreign emigrants from the German states. These emigrants spread over the country south and east of the Wisconsin River, and opened new settlements upon its northern and western tributaries. In 1845, Wisconsin Territory contained more inhabitants than any other new state possessed upon her admission into the Union; yet the people, satisfied with the territorial form of government, desired not, in the recent state of the principal settlements, to incur the additional expense of an independent state government. Hence, with a population of more than one hundred and forty thousand souls, the Wisconsin Territory
Wisconsin is bounded N. by Lake Superior, the upper peninsula of Michigan, and Minnesota, W. by Minnesota and Iowa, E. by Lake Michigan, and S. by Illinois. It lies between 42° 30′ and 46° 55′ N. Lat., and between 87° and 92° 50′ W. Long. Its greatest extent north and south is 285 miles, and 255 east and west, having a land area of 53,924 square miles, or 34,511,360 acres, of which 1,045,499 only were improved in 1850.
Wisconsin is one of the healthiest of countries, with a dry, transparent, and bracing atmosphere, and remarkably free from fevers and ague. Writers familiar with it, say:
“It is, indeed, delightful in speculation to talk of constant spring, of perpetual verdure, of flowers in bloom at all seasons, of purling brooks never obstructed by ice, of a mild climate, where Jack Frost never spreads his white drapery over the surface of the earth; but it is a problem, not yet fully solved, whether a tropical climate contributes more to one's happiness than the varying seasons of a northern clime. Nay, whatever doubt there is on the subject predominates in favor of a northern latitude. Industry, intelligence, morality, and virtue, are exhibited more generally among the inhabitants of northern latitudes than those of southern. If one's physical enjoyment is equally promoted by the bracing air of a cold climate, then, indeed, the argument is in favor of the latter, for vigor of body and purity of mind are the most essential ingredients in the cup of happiness. The air of our winters is dry and bracing. When snow falls it usually remains on the ground several months, forming an excellent road either for traveling, business, or pleasure. The rivers are securely wedged with ice, rendering many portions of the country more accessible at that season than at any other. An excellent opportunity is afforded to the younger portion of the community for innocent amusements —-sleighing, sliding downhill, and skating—amusements highly exhilarating, and promotive alike of health and happiness. These observations have been made because a greater value is often set on a mild southern climate, in reference to its capacity in affording the means of happiness or of health, than it really possesses.”
“We have always made it a point to inquire of new settlers in Wisconsin how they liked the climate, and the answer invariably was, that it was far superior to that of the states they had left—whether Eastern, Middle or Southern, One emigrant says: ‘As the result of my observations, I would state briefly—
and in this
I do but repeat a common sentiment—that I would much rather spend a winter in Wisconsin than in New York or Pennsylvania. True, the weather is cold; but it is of that settled, steady, clear character, which we here call
‘bracing weather.
’ No damp winds, no sloppy thaw, no uncomfortable rains, but day after day the same unbroken field of snow, the same clear, bright sunshine, the same untroubled air. Winter here holds undisputed sway; it is not a muddled mixture of all seasons, in which the breezy spring, the clear autumn, the sunny summer and the rigorous winter mingle and mix, and come and go together. You will understand the force of this distinction when I tell you that the first fall of snow in Wisconsin remains on the ground during the whole winter without a crust; so free is the air from that dampness, which, in other countries produce it. Who among you has not noticed the penetrating character of dampness in cold—its chilling, searching qualities; or who, on the other hand, has not gone abroad on days of intense coldness, but when the air was dry and pure, and felt elastic, buoyant, and comfortable. Such is a Wisconsin winter. I suffered less from the cold while here, than I have many times in Pennsylvania when the thermometer stood much higher.”
Wisconsin may be described generally as an elevated rolling prairie, the highest portion being on the north, and forms the dividing ridge between the waters flowing S.W. into the Mississippi, and those flowing northward and eastward into the lakes. Limestone underlies most of the southern part of
Vast quantities of pine lumber are obtained from the northern sections of the state, ranging from five to eight millions annually in value, though the business is in its infancy. The agricultural staples ate wheat, Indian corn, oats, potatoes, butter, live stock etc. The wheat crop of 1860 was about 26 millions of bushels. Beside the great lakes, Superior and Michigan, on its northern and eastern shores, Wisconsin has vast numbers of small lakes within its borders, generally characterized by clear water, bold, picturesque shores, with excellent fish.
The mineral resources of Wisconsin are important, but as yet imperfectly known. The great lead region, mostly in the south-western part of the state, contain mines supposed to be inexhaustible, and decidedly the richest in the known world. Valuable copper and zinc ores are found at Mineral Point and in its vicinity, also iron ore in various places. The bulk of the population of the state is in its southern part, most of the country in the north being an unexplored wilderness. If as densely settled as Massachusetts, Wisconsin would contain more than seven millions of inhabitants. Population in 1820, 1,444; in 1830, 3,245; in 1840, 30,945; in 1850, 305,566; in 1855, 552,109; and in 1860, 768,585.
* Ritchie, in his work on Wisconsin, says: “The number of inhabitants in Wisconsin does not exhibit their relative strength and power. Our population are nearly all in the prime of life. You rarely meet a woman past fifty years of age; still more rarely as old a man; and large numbers are too young to have had many children. The Milwaukie American says: ‘It is a fact, noticed and remarked by nearly every eastern visitor to the west, that no small amount of the business of the west and north-west is conducted by
young men. Go where you will, in every city, town and village, you will find more youthful countenances elongated with the cares and anxieties of business pursuits, than those unacquainted with the peculiar circumstances attaching to western life and enterprise could be made to believe. Youth and energy are found conducting and managing our railroads and our banking institutions. Beardless youngsters are seen behind the desks—their desks—of our counting houses, and in our manufactories, mixed up with our commerce, and, in short, taking active parts in every field of business enterprise. A year's experience as a clerk, or an agent for others, gives him an insight into the
modus operandi of ‘making money,’ and his wits are set in motion, and his industrious ingenuity brought to bear in his own behalf, and he desires to ‘go into business for himself.’ Frequently with a small capital, oftener with none, he engages in some branch of traffic, and in a few years is ‘well to do in the world.’ Such is the history of mauy of the young merchants and business men in our state, and we do not believe that a more enterprising, intelligent, and thorough-going business community can be found than that of Wisconsin. Youth, energy, and a laudable ambition
to rise in the world, are characteristic elements of the west: they have made her what she now is, and give glorious promise of her future.’
In one of our village or town hotels, crowded with moneyed boarders—the merchants, bankers, and chief mechanics of the place—two thirds of them will be found to be between twenty-five and thirty years of age; their wives, of course, still younger. Our population of 1,000,000 are equal in industrial capacity to at least twice that number either in Europe or in the Atlantic states.”
Milwaukie,
a port of entry, and the largest city in Wisconsin, is built on the west side of Lake Michigan, 75 miles east of Madison, and 85 north of Chicago. Lat. 43° 04′, Long. 87° 57′. The city is built on the flats of the Milwaukie River, and on the bluffs near the lake. The largest lake boats ascend the river two miles. The shore on Lake Michigan consists of a bank of clay from 20 to 100 feet high, and as nearly perpendicular as the nature of the material will admit. The city contains about 20 founderies and machine shops, employing about 1,000 men, and 26 breweries, employing about 500 men. Ship building is extensively carried on; great quantities of lumber are exported; and it has a large commerce on the lakes, and does an extensive business with the interior by its railroads, one of which crosses the state to the Mississippi. It is noted for its splendid blocks of buildings, and for its superior brick, which have become a valuable article of export, being used even as far east as New York city. They are hard, smooth, and of a beautiful straw color. It has also in its vicinity quarries of a beautiful light colored stone. Population, in 1840, 1,751; in 1850, 20,035; and in 1860, 42,500.
South-eastern river view in Milwaukie.
The engraving shows a river or harbor view in Milwaukie, as seen from near the point of the entrance of Menominee River. The swing bridges across the river appear in the central part. The terminus of the Milwaukie and Mississippi Railroad is near the building on the extreme left.
A foreign traveler describes Milwaukie as one of the most picturesquely situated towns he had seen in the west. Says he: “It is placed on both sides of a river which falls into a fine bay of Lake Michigan, the town rising from the valley of the river on either side to high bluffs facing the lake. The river is navigable from the lake, and vessels discharge and land their cargoes direct into, and from, the granaries and warehouses which line its banks. Tramways from the various lines of railroad run along the other sides of these warehouses, so that the greatest facilities are afforded for the
Milwaukie derives its name from
Me-ne-aw-kee
, an Indian word, said to signify rich or
beautiful land.
The first white person who located at Milwaukie appears to have been
Alexander Laframboise
, from Mackinaw, who established a trading house here about the year 1785. He soon returned to Mackinaw, and gave his business to his brother to manage for him: the latter remained here for several years, and raised a family. Laframboise failing in business, his trading house was closed about the year 1800. At this period another trader established himself here, employing as clerk S. Chappue, who had previously been with Laframboise. J. B. Beaubien established a trading post in Milwaukie at this time. Some four or five years later
Laurent Fily
was sent with a supply of goods, by Jacob Franks, of Green Bay, to carry on a summer trade at Milwaukie, buying
deer skins in the red.
Previous to this
Jacques Vieau
, of Green Bay, commenced trading here, and continued it regularly every winter, excepting that of 1811-12, until 1818, when his son-in-law, SOLOMON JUNEAU emigrated here from Canada, first as his clerk, and then on his own account, and he may be considered as the first regular settler and founder of Milwaukie.
In the publications of the State Historical Society, Mr. Alex. F. Pratt gives this sketch of Mr. Juneau, and of the early history of the place:
“Solomon Juneau emigrated to Milwaukie in the fall of 1818, and built him a log cabin among the natives. At that time his family consisted of a wife and one child. His nearest white neighbors were at Chicago, Green Bay and Prairie du Chien. He kept a few goods suitable for the Indian trade, and for the first seventeen years he was not only the only merchant in the place, but the only white man. During that period, a few Indian traders were occasionally there, but not permanently located. In the spring of 1835, a land office having been previously established at Green Bay, this land was brought into market, and Mr. Juneau purchased a small tract, consisting of about 130 acres, lying on the east side of the river, directly north of Wisconsin-street. Previous to this time, Geo. H. Walker, Esq., had come and made a claim on what is now called “Walker's Point,” which he subsequently obtained a title to. Byron Kilbourn, Esq., about that time purchased a tract on the west side of the river, which has from that time been known by the name of ‘Kilbourn Town.’ Daniel Wells, Jr., W. W. Gilman, George D.
The town was left with a large stock of goods, and but few inhabitants. Merchants and other business men enjoyed the winter in the best possible manner. During the fall quite a large number of actual settlers had arrived, of the right stamp, among whom were H. N. Wells, J. E. Arnold, Henry Williams, Hans Crocker, J. H. Tweedy, L. Blossom, J. W. Pixley, S. H. Martin, Geo. P. Delaplaine, Geo. Reed, Cyrus Hawley, Fred. Wardner, A. O. T. Breed, Eliphalet Cramer, Rufus Parks, Curtis Reed, Orson Reed, Wm. M. Dennis, Truman L. Smith, Edmond D. Clinton, A. A. Bird, and many others, whom time will not allow us to mention. All had been doing a ‘land office business,’ and had plenty of money left to winter on. At this time our old friend Juneau was supposed to be worth at least $100,000, with a fair prospect of its being doubled by the rise of land in the spring. We have often seen him in those days go into his store, after business hours were over, and take from the drawers the money that his clerks had received during the day for goods and lots, amounting often to 8 or 10,000 dollars, and put it loose in his hat; and upon one occasion we recollect of his hat being knocked off in a playful crowd, when some $10,000 flew in various directions. In short, money seemed to be of no earthly use to him. If a man called upon him to subscribe for either a public improvement or a charitable object, whatever was required he subscribed, without asking why or wherefore. In the mean time he had looked on and seen others get rich on the rise of property that he had sold, and he commenced buying back lots and paying thousands for those he had previously sold for hundreds. We recollect very well one circumstance: his re-purchasing the corner lot, near Youngs' Hall, for $3,700, which he had sold the year previous for $475. He was truly, in the language of the poet, ‘The noblest work of God, an honest man.’ He had implicit confidence in every body.
The spring of 1837 disappointed all our anticipations. A general stagnation in business prevailed in all directions. Immigration had almost entirely fallen off. Our currency, which was mostly of the Michigan ‘Wild Cat’ stamp, was no longer a legal tender. There was no sale for real estate. The second payments were becoming due on purchases of real estate, and all who supposed themselves rich in lands, were not only destitute of money, but the
At this time, there were but few settlements in the interior; but the hard times which continued through the years 1837 and 1838, induced many to leave Milwaukie and locate a ‘claim.’ The lands between Milwaukie and Rock River were then surveyed, but were not brought into market until the fall of 1839. During this time they had become thickly settled, and many of them quite valuable. The hard times at the east had led many to seek a home in the west; and in the fall of 1839, when these lands came into market, many of them had been so improved that they were worth from $10 to $100 an acre, while the occupants had not the first ‘red cent’ to buy them with. Consequently, a large proportion of the settlers were compelled to either sell their improvements for what they could get, or pay from 25 to 50 per cent. for money to enter their lands with.
About this time, Alex. Mitchell, Harvey Birchard, the Messrs. Ludingtons, E. Eldred, and other capitalists, came to Milwaukie, and purchased lots at $100 each, that had previously been sold from $1,000 to $1,500, and are now selling from $5,000 to $15,000 each. From that day to this, ‘the rise and progress’ of Milwaukie has been steady and onward. The price of land has continued to advance with the increase of business, and nearly all who commenced in business there at that time, and continued to the present, have become wealthy and independent. In 1846, the legislature passed an act to divide Milwaukie county, and establish the county of Waukesha; also another to incorporate the city of Milwaukie. At the first charter election in the new city, Solomon Juneau was elected mayor, which was a well merited compliment to the ‘old pioneer.’”.
Mr. Juneau subsequently removed to Dodge county, where by hard labor he earned a comfortable living, until a few years since, when he was “gathered to his fathers.”
Mr. Pratt also gives these amusing reminiscences of the judiciary of the Territory of Wisconsin:
“The Territory of Wisconsin was organized in July, 1836. It was divided into three judicial districts. Judge Dunn was appointed for the western district, Judge Irwin for the middle, and Judge Frazier, of Pennsylvania, for the eastern. Judge Frazier arrived in Milwaukie on a Sunday evening, in June, 1837. He put up at the small hotel which stood where ‘Dickerman's Block’ now stands, which was called the‘poker.
’ The party consisted of the judge, Col. Morton, register of the land office, and two or three others—friends of the judge. They commenced playing for small sums at first, but increased them as the hours passed, until the dawn of day, the next morning—when small sums seemed beneath their notice. The first approach of day was heralded to them by the ringing of the bell for breakfast. The judge made a great many apologies, saying, among other things, that as that was his first appearance in the territory, and as his court opened at 10 o'clock that morning, he must have a little time to prepare a charge to the grand jury. He therefore hoped that they would excuse him, which they accordingly did, and he withdrew from the party. The court met at the appointed hour—Owen Aldrich acting as sheriff, and Cyrus Hawley as clerk. The grand jury was called and sworn.
The judge, with much dignity, commenced his charge; and never before did we hear such a charge poured forth from the bench! After charging them upon the laws generally, he alluded to the statute against gambling. The English language is too barren to describe his abhorrence of that crime. Among other extravagances, he said, that ‘a gambler was unfit for earth, heaven, or hell,’ and that ‘God Almighty would even
shudder
at the sight of one.’
At that time, we had but one session of the legislature, which had adopted mostly the statutes of Michigan, which allowed the court to exercise its discretion in granting
stays
of executions, etc. A suit came up against a man in the second ward, who had no counsel. The judge ordered the crier to call the defendant. He did so, and the defendant appeared. The judge asked him if he had anything to say against judgment being rendered against him. He replied, that he did not know that he had, as it was an honest debt, but that he was unable to pay it. The judge inquired what his occupation was. He replied that he was a fisherman. Says the judge,
‘Can you pay in fish?
’ The defendant answered, that ‘he did not know but he could, if he had time to catch them.’ The judge turned to the clerk, and ordered him to ‘enter up a judgment, payable in fish, and grant a stay of execution for twelve months;’ at the same time remarking to the defendant, that he must surely pay it at the time, and in
good
fish; for he would not be willing to wait so long for ‘stinking fish.’ The next suit worthy of note, was against Wm. M. Dennis, our present bank comptroller. He, like his predecessor, had no counsel. ‘His name was called, and he soon made his appearance. He entered the court-room, wearing his usual smile, whittling, with his knife in the left hand. The court addressed him in a loud voice, ‘What are you
grinning about, Mr. Dennis?
’ Mr. D. replied, that he was not aware that he was laughing. The court inquired if he proposed to offer any defense? He replied, that he did, but was not ready for trial. ‘No matter,’ said the judge, ‘there's enough that are ready; the clerk will enter it ‘continued.’’ The next case, about which we recollect, was the trial of two Indians, who were indicted for murdering a man on Rock River. They were also indicted for an assault, with intent to kill, upon another man, at the same the time. The trial for murder came off first. They were found guilty, and sentenced to be hanged. On the day following, they were tried for the assault, etc., found guilty, and sentenced to five years’ imprisonment, and to pay a fine of five. hundred dollars each. Governor Dodge, however, deeming it too severe to fine and imprison a man after he was hanged, commuted it to imprisonment for life. The Indians were confined in jail a year or two, but were finally pardoned by the governor.
Judge Frazier soon afterward went to Green Bay, and held a court, from whence, for want of a jail in which to confine prisoners, he sentenced a man, for some trifling offense, ‘to be banished to Turkey River:’ After the court adjourned, he returned to Milwaukie on the steamboat Pennsylvania. She anchored in the bay, and the judge, who was dead drunk at the time, was lowered by means of a tackle into a boat, and rowed to the landing at Walker's Point. From the effect of this bacchanalian revel he never recovered. His friend, Col. Morton, took him to his own house, called to his aid our best physicians, and all was done that human skill could devise, for the restoration of his health; but it was too late; the seeds of death had been sown; he lingered in great distress for four or five days, and breathed his last. The members of the bar, generally, neglected to attend the
74
Green Bay
, the county seat of Brown county, is situated at the mouth of Fox River, at the head of Green Bay,
* Green Bay, which gives name to the town, is an arm of Lake Michigan, of about 100 miles in length, and from 10 to 15 in breadth. The name,
Green, was given by the early explorers, and it is supposed, from this fact, that they must have visited it in the spring, and have found the vegetation of the shores of the bay far in advance of other parts of the country, as is now sometimes the case, the trees being clothed with young leaves, rich in the velvet green of spring, while far to the south, even as low as the latitude of the south end of Lake Huron, all nature is in the cold sombre hues of winter.
About 1745, the Sieur
Augustin De Langlade,
his son
Charles,
and probably some others, left Mackinaw and migrated to Green Bay, where they became the principal proprietors of the soil. They settled on the east side of Fox River, near its mouth, somewhat above and opposite the old French post, and on or near the site of the residence of Judge Arndt, at the upper end of Green Bay. At this time there appears to have been a small French garrison here, of whom Capt. De Velie was commander. Such was the influence of Charles De Langlade, that he was appointed, by Vandreuil, the governor of Canada, to command the border forces of the French and Indians in the north-west, and it was by his management that the British were defeated and Gen. Braddock slain at Du Quesne, or Pittsburg, in 1755. Langlade was also at the capture of Fort William Henry, and also at the battle of Quebec, where Montcalm was killed. He received a pension from the British government, for his services in the American Revolution. He died at Green Bay, in Jan., 1800, at the age of 75, and was buried by the side of his father, in the cemetery at this place.
The Green Bay settlement, from its inception in 1745 to 1785, a period of forty years, made but little progress. Mr. Grignon, in his “Recollections,” published by the State Historical Society, says, “in 1785, there were but seven families, who, with their
engages
and others, did not exceed fifty-six souls.” In 1792,
Charles Reaume
arrived and took up his residence at the Bay. About this period others began to arrive, almost invariably from Canada. About the year 1812, the population amounted to nearly 250 persons. Previous to the advent of the Americans, in 1816, there were no schools. The earliest mill erected in the country was by Jacob Franks, about the year 1809. He first built a saw mill, then a grist mill, on Devil River, three miles east of Depere. Previous to this, grinding was done by hand mills. In the summer of 1816, a body of American troops were sent to Green Bay, in three schooners, where they arrived about the 16th of July. Grignon, in his Recollections, says:
“Col. Miller, the commander, the very day of his arrival, accompanied by Col.
‘My Brother! How can we oppose your locating a council-fire among us? You are too strong for us. Even if we wanted to oppose you, we have scarcely got powder and shot to make the attempt. One favor we ask is, that our French brothers shall not be disturbed or in any way molested. You can choose any place you please for your fort, and we shall not object.’
Col. Miller thanked him and his people for their friendly consent to his request, and added that he had some spare provisions, and supposed a little pork and flour would not hurt him, as they seemed to be scarce articles with the Indiana, and invited him to call and get a supply. Some of the Indians prompted Tomah to ask their new father for a little
broth
also. Tomah expressed his thanks for Col. Miller's kind offers, and added that he and his people would be very glad to have, if possible, a little
broth
to use with the pork and flour. Col. Miller said, that although it was contrary to orders, he would take it upon himself to give them a little— enough for a dram apiece, and hoped they would be moderate in its use.
The people of Green Bay were generally well pleased with the advent of the Americans, a home market was furnished for their surplus provisions, and a new impetus was given to the settlement. Vessels now began to arrive with supplies for the garrison, and we began to experience the benefits and convenience of lake commerce and navigation.”
We continue the history of Green Bay from the Recollections of Hon. Henry S. Baird. The article is valuable as a vivid description of the manners and customs of these early French settlers of Wisconsin:
In the month of July, 1824, I first landed upon the shores of the Fox River. In September following, I came with my wife from Mackinaw, having resided at the latter place for two years previously. My knowledge of the early history of the state commenced at that period, and has continued uninterrupted until the present time.
In 1824, Green Bay, as well as the entire country, presented a far different view from its present appearance. Old Fort Howard then occupied its present site. The grounds around it were used mostly for fields of grain and gardens. A portion of the present town of Fort Howard was used by the troops as a parade and drill ground. The garrison consisted of four companies of the third regiment of United States Infantry, and commanded by the late Gen. John McNiel, the brother-in-law of ox-President Pierce. The “settlement,” extended from Fort Howard on the east, and from the premises now occupied by our venerable fellow-citizen, Judge Arndt, on the east side of Fox River, to the present village of Depere, then known as
Rapide des Peres.
The lands on either side of the river were divided into small farms, or more particularly known to the old settlers as “claims.” These claims are limited in width, generally from two to seven arpents, or French acres, but what they lacked in width they made up in depth, being on the average eighty arpents, or about two and three quarter miles long, and contained from one hundred to six hundred and forty acres each. Like those at St. Louis, Kaskaskia, Detroit, Prairie du Chien and other early settlements, these claims were generally “squatted” upon by traders and early pioneers, but were subsequently, by a series of acts of congress, “confirmed” and granted to the occupants on certain conditions. Their peculiar shape of “all long and no wide,” has often been a matter of wonder to the shrewd Yankees, who love to have their farms in a square form, and take it all in at one view. Many laugh at what they deem the folly and short-sightedness of the old settlers in thus limiting their locations. But when apprised of the reasons which induced this manner of location, they may cease to marvel. In my opinion, the reasons were two-fold: first, security against the hostile attacks to be apprehended from the native Indians, who were the sole occupants and proprietors of the country in the early years of its settlement by the traders, and whose passions were often inflame by jealousy and hatred of the whites in their encroachments upon the soil and freedom of the original owners. It is evident that it would be much easier to repel attack by a speedy union of the whites thusfarming
interest of the country; and it was not until the arrival of more enterprising and grasping settlers, the keen and speculating Americans (a class feared and hated by the former class), that these claims were considered of any value, or worth the trouble and expense of obtaining titles to them.
As before stated, the “settlement” at this place extended on both sides of the river from Fort Howard to Depere, a distance of about six miles, here and there interspersed with patches of timber, the cultivated land extending back from the river but a few acres. Beyond Depere, south or west, there was no white settlements for many years, except two or three families at the Grand Kaukauna, until we reached Prairie du Chien, on the Mississippi River, and distant about 250 miles; where was a garrison of United States troops, and a few hundred inhabitants. All north, east or West of Green Bay was a dense forest, an unbroken wilderness, peopled only by the red man, and roamed by wild beasts. Depere, or rather “Rapide des Peres,” is supposed to be the spot first located by the Jesuits or early missionaries, in or about the year 1671.Reverend Fathers
, was situated very near the spot on which now stands the new grist mill of Messrs. Wilcox & Wager. I frequently visited the spot, and the old foundation of the venerable edifice was visible for some time after I came here, and until, in cultivating the ground, the stones were removed or covered over. The trade and business of the settlement was principally carried on at what was then called by the unpretending and not very pleasing name of “Shanty Town.” Three or four stores were located at this point, and together with the sutler store at Fort Howard, and two or three at other places in the settlement, supplied the wants of the community. In addition to the “regular merchants” were several fur traders, who carried on a regular traffic with the Indians; but these had no permanent places of trade here. In the autumn of each year, they received, either from Mackinaw (then the great depot and head-quarters of the American Fur Company), or from Canada, their “outfit” of goods and merchandise, consisting of articles adapted to the wants of the natives, and departed for their distant “wintering grounds,” situated in the wilderness. The principal trading posts, at that period, in northern Wisconsin, were the following: Milwaukie, Sheboygan, and Manitowoc, on Lake Michigan; Menomonee River, Peshtigo and Oconto, on Green Bay; Fond du Lac, Calumet, and Oshkosh, on Winnebago Lake; Wolf River, Lake Shawano, and the Portage of the Fox and Wisconsin. At all of these points Indian villages were located, and it is a remarkable feature in the settlement of Wisconsin, that all or nearly all of the principal cities, towns and villages which now in all directions meet our view, were originally sites of Indian villages; showing that to the sagacity and foresight of the aborigines, rather than to the judgment and discrimination of the whites, are we indebted for the beautiful and eligible locations of the towns throughout the state.
* The Mission of St. Francis Xavier, at DePere, was established in 1669: See
Jesuit Relations, 1669–70;
Shea's Hist. Catholic Missions; Smith's Hist. Wisconsin.
These traders conveyed the goods, which, however, were not all
dry
goods, in boats called
batteaux
, being of light draught of water, and constructed so as to meet with the least opposition from the current in rapids or swift streams, or invoyageurs
, or by half-bloods, their descendants. This class, which once occupied a prominent a position in the early recollections of the times, but which has now nearly disappeared from the country they were the first to visit, deserves a passing notice. The Canadian
voyageurs
, as the name indicates, came originally from Canada, principally from Quebec and Montreal. They were employed by the principal traders, under written contracts, executed in Canada, for a term of from three to five years—their wages from two hundred and fifty livres (fifty dollars) to seven hundred and fifty livres (one hundred and fifty dollars) per year, to which was added what was termed an “outfit,” consisting of a Mackinaw blanket, two cotton shirts, a
capote
or loose sack coat, two pairs of coarse pants, shoes and socks, and some other small articles, including soap. Their food, when in the “wintering ground,” consisted, for the greater portion of the time, of corn and tallow, occasionally enriched by a piece of fat pork—or venison and bear meat, when they happened to be plenty; yet with this spare and simple diet, they were healthy and always cheerful and happy. Their powers of endurance were astonishing. They would row or paddle all day, and when necessary would carry on their backs, suspended by a strap or band crossing their breast or forehead, large packs of furs or merchandise, weighing from one hundred to one hundred and thirty pounds, for whole days, and when night came, enjoyed their frugal meal and joined in merry jokes, recounted stories of their many hair-breadth escapes by “flood and forest,” or perhaps joined in the dance to the music of the violin, if among their companions any were capable of “sawing sweet sounds.” In the spring of the year, they returned to the settlements or principal trading-posts, to spend the summer months in comparative ease, and in the enjoyment of the pastimes and frolics they so highly prized. Always improvident, open-hearted and convivial, they saved nothing, nor thought of the wants of the future, but spent freely the whole of their hard-earned and scanty wages in a few weeks of their stay among their friends, and again returned in the fall to pass through the same routine of toil, hardship, and privation. Intermarriages frequently took place between them and the native women. These marriages were encouraged by the traders, as it not only increased the influence of the traders and their
engagees
over the Indians, but was the means of securing their trade, bound the men more closely to the country, and insured their continuance in the fur trade, with which they had then become familiar. The half-bloods were the descendants of the early
voyageurs
, and in character and manners closely resembled their sires.
The commerce of the country was carried on through the medium of a few sail vessels plying between this place and the ports on Lake Erie. These vessels were generally of from twenty-five to seventy tuns burden. Occasionally, perhaps once or twice in the season of navigation, a steamer from Buffalo would look in upon us; but these were far different in structure and capacity from the splendid “floating palaces” which have visited our waters in later years. All kinds of provisions and supplies were brought here from Ohio and Michigan, and the inhabitants were solely dependent upon those states for everything like provisions, except a limited quantity of grain and vegetables raised by the miserable farmers of the country.
The buildings and improvements in the country were then few, and circumscribed within a narrow compass, and in a great degree partook of the unpretending and simple character of their occupants. Some constructed of rough or unhewn logs, covered with cedar bark, here and there a sprinkling of lodges or wigwams, formed by long poles stuck in the ground in a circular form and brought together and united at the top by a cord, thus forming an inclosure perhaps twelve or fifteen feet in diameter at the base, and covered with large mats composed of a kind of reed or grass, called by the Indians “Puckaway.” The mode of ingress and egress was by raising a smaller mat, covering an aperture left in the side for that purpose. Light was admitted from the top of the structure, through an opening which served as well to emit the smoke from the fire, which was made directly in the center of the habitation. These wigwams were sometimes occupied by families of the half-blood Canadians and Indians, sometimes by the natives.
The inhabitants of the settlement, exclusive of the native Indians, were mostlypioneers of Wisconsin.
Several of these persons have left descendants who still survive them; and the names of Lawe, Grignon, Juneau, Porlier, and others of that class, will survive and serve as memorials of the old race of settlers, long after the last of the present generation shall have been “gathered to their fathers.”
During the early years of my residence here, the
social circle
, although limited, was by no means insignificant. It was composed of the families of the garrison and the Americans, and several of the “old settlers.” If it was small, it was also united by the ties of friendship and good feeling. Free from the formalities and customs which are observed by the
ton
of the present day, we met to enjoy ourselves, more like members of one family than as strangers. The young people of that period (and all felt young then) would assemble on a few hours' notice at the house of a neighbor, without form or ceremony. Young ladies were then expected to appear at an early hour in the evening, and not at the usual hour of retiring to rest, nor were they required to appear in either
court
or
fancy
dresses. The merry dance succeeded, and all enjoyed themselves until an early hour in the morning. One custom prevailed universally, among all classes, even extending to the Indians: that of devoting the holidays to festivity and amusement, but especially that of “calling” on New Year's day. This custom was confined to no class in particular; all observed it; and many met on New Year who perhaps did not again meet till the next. All then shook hands and exchanged mutual good wishes—all old animosities were forgotten—all differences settled, and universal peace established. May this good old custom be long observed, and handed down to future generations as a memento of the good olden time. During the winter season, Green Bay was entirely insulated. Cut off from communication with all other parts of the civilized world, her inhabitants were left to their own resources for nearly half the year. Our mails were “few and far between,” sometimes but once a month—never more than twice, did we receive them, so that the
news
when received here was no longer
new.
The mails were carried on a man's shoulders from Chicago to Green Bay, through the wilderness, a distance of about two hundred and fifty miles, and could not contain a very great quantity of interesting reading matter. Under such circumstances it became necessary that we should devise some means to enliven our time, and we did so accordingly; and I look back upon those years as among the most agreeable in my life.
The country, at that early day, was destitute of roads or places of public entertainment —nothing but the path, or “Indian trail,” traversed the wide expanse of forest and prairie from Lake Michigan to the Mississippi, and the travel by land was performed on foot or horseback; but there was then another mode of locomotion, very generally adopted by those who took long journeys—now become obsolete, and which would doubtless be laughed at by the present “fast going” generation —that of the Indian or bark canoe. I will not take time to describe the
vessel
, as most of you have doubtless seen such, and perhaps many, now present, have taken voyages in these frail
barks.
The canoe was used in all cases where comfortvoyageur
was enlivened by the merry song of his light-hearted and ever happy Canadian crew—his eye delighted by the constant varying scenery of the country through which he passed—at liberty to select a spot for his encampment, and to stop when fatigued with the day's travel —and, above all, free from care and from the fearful apprehensions of all modern travelers on railroads and steamboats, that of being blown up, burned, or drowned.
I can better illustrate this early mode of travel, by giving an account of a “party of pleasure,” undertaken and accomplished by myself. In May, 1830, being obliged to go on the annual circuit to Prairie du Chien, to attend court, I concluded to make it a matter of pleasure as well as business. I accordingly obtained a good sized and substantial north-west bark canoe —about five fathoms, or thirty feet, in length, and five feet wide in the center—a good tent, or “markee,” together with mattresses, blankets, bedding, mess basket, and all other things required as an “outfit” on such expeditions. The party consisted of my wife , self, two small children, two young ladies as companions, and a servant girl; my crew, of four Canadians—experienced men and good singers—and two Menomonee Indians, as bow and steersmen. The canoe was propelled both by oars and paddles.
The Portage.
The engraving represents a party of voyageurs carrying their bark canoe and packing their “plunder” over a portage. The term “portatge” is applied to those points where the canoes are carried by land around rapids or other obstructions in a river or from the head-waters of one stream to those of another, as between those of the Fox and Wisconsin Rivers.
We ascended the Fox River to Fort Winnebago, and descended the Wisconsin to the Mississippi, and thence up the latter four miles to Prairie du Chien. The voyage occupied eight or nine days in going, and about the same length of time in returning —during which the ladies “camped out” every night save two. They did all the cooking and
household
work; the former was no small item—for, with appetites sharpened by pure air and exercise, and with abundance of fresh venison, with fowl and fish, to satisfy them, the quantity of viands consumed by the party would have astonished modern epicures, and perhaps shock the delicate tastes of city belles. We frequently encamped early in the afternoon—at some spot which attracted our attention from its natural beauty, or romantic appearance—and strolled along the bank of the stream, plucking beautiful wild flowers, which abounded, or clambering up some high bluff or commanding headland, obtained a view of the surrounding country, and traced the meandering stream through its high banks, far in the distance. It was in the merry month of May, when the forest was clothed in its deepest verdure—the hills and prairies redolent with flowers, and the woods tenanted by melodious songsters. It was truly a “trip of pleasure” and enjoyment. Many trips for pleasure have been undertaken, where the parties may have experienced the refinements and accommodations, and enjoyed the luxuries to be found, in the present day, in old and long settled countries—but I believe few, if any, realized more true delight and satisfaction, than did this “Party of Pleasure in a Bark Canoe.”
The present “State of Wisconsin,” although formerly a part of the Territory of Michigan, was for many years rather an
appendage
than a component part of thatsubordinate
, or justices' courts, many singular incidents transpired.
Voyageur's Camp.
The day's toil ended, they rest from labor.
I happened to be present at a trial which took place in a justice's court in Iowa county. The court was held in a small log school-house. The suit was brought to recover the amount of a note of hand. The defendant plead either payment or want of consideration—each party had employed counsel, and a jury of six were impanneled to try the issue. A witness was called and sworn. In the course of the examination, one of the counsel objected to some leading question put by the opposite side, or to some part of the witness' answer as improper testimony. The justice overruled the objection, and the witness proceeded; but ere long another objection similar to the first was made from the same side. On this second objection being made, the foreman of the jury, a large and portly individual, who bore the title of colonel, and, probably owing to his exalted military rank, was permitted to wear his hat during the trial, manifested a good deal of impatience, shown by fidgeting in his seat and whispering to his fellow jurors; but the justice again overruled the objection and told the witness to proceed. This he did for a short time, when he made a statement which was clearly irrelevant and contrary to every rule of evidence and common sense. The attorney who had so often and so unsuccessfully attempted to exclude this sort of evidence, could no longer silently submit—he again rose from
his
seat and most respectfully appealed to the court, protesting against such statements going to the jury as testimony. Thereupon the worthy foreman rose from his seat, and swore he would no longer sit there to hear the objections of that fellow. That he had taken
oath as a juror
, to decide the case according to the evidence, and if he could not hear the whole story from the witness, he
should leave.
Accordingly he made several strides toward the door, when the justice rose from the bench, and approaching the juror, placed his hand upon the colonel's shoulder, and begged that he should return to his seat, promising that the troublesome attorney should not again interfere. After some persuasion, he consented to do so—at the same time, while pressing his hat more firmly upon histhat fellow's nonsense,”
The attorney gave up in despair, and the opposite counsel had it all his own way.
South-western view of Madison.
Shows the appearance of the city, as seen from Washington-avenue, near the railroad station; the City Hall appears on the left; the Court House oil the right; the Episcopal Church, State Capitol, the Baptist and Catholic Churches in the central part.
Madison,
the county seat of Dane county, and capital of Wisconsin, is 80 miles W. of Milwaukie, about 100 E. from Prairie du Chien, and 154 N.W, of Chicago. It is generally pronounced to possess the finest natural site of any inland town in the Union. It is situated on rising ground, an isthmus between Third and Fourth Lakes of the chain called Four Lakes. “On the northwest is Lake Mendota, nine miles long and six wide; on the east Lake Monona, five miles long and three wide. The city is celebrated for the beauty, health and pleasantness of its location; commanding, as it does, a view of nearly every characteristic of country peculiar to the west—the prairie, oak opening, mound, lake, and woodland. The surface of the ground is somewhat uneven, but in no place too abrupt for building purposes. The space between these lakes is a mile in width, rising gently as it leaves their banks to an altitude of about seventy feet, and is then alternately depressed and elevated, making the site of the city a series of gently undulating swells. On the most elevated ground is the state house, a fine structure of limestone, in the center of one of Nature's Parks of fifteen acres, overlooking the “Four Lakes” and the surrounding city. From this the streets diverge in every direction, with a gradual descent on all sides. To the west, about a mile distant, is the State University, in the midst of a park of 40 acres, crowning a beautiful eminence, 125 feet above the lake. This institution was founded in 1848, and has an annual income of $30,000. On the south side of Lake Monona is a spacious Water-Cure establishment, surrounded by an extensive grove, and presenting a very striking appearance on approaching
Madison possesses many handsome buildings and several churches of a superior order. Beside the State University, it has other literary institutions, male and female, of the first order, about 20,000 volumes in its public libraries, and is generally regarded as the literary emporium of the state, being the point for the assemblage of conventions of all kinds, and a favorite resort for the literary and scientific men of Wisconsin. The town is a thriving business place, and has ample railroad connections with all parts of the country. Population, in 1860, 6,800.
The “
State Historical Society Of Wisconsin,
” organized in Madison in 1849, is the most valuable and flourishing institution of the kind west of the Alleghanies. By an act, most honorable to this growing state, the sum of one thousand dollars annually has been granted to promote its objects. This society, although in its infancy, has already secured a most valuable collection of books and papers; also an interesting collection of original paintings of distinguished men, ancient relics, etc. The following article upon the history of Madison, is from the pen of Lyman C. Draper, Esq., Cor. See. Wisconsin Historical Society, a gentleman who has probably collected more original unpublished materials for western history, than any person living in this state or in any other:
“The site of Madison attracted the attention of Hon. James D. Doty, as early as 1832. In the spring of 1836, in company with Hon. S. T. Mason, of Detroit, he purchased the tract of land occupied by the present city. The first cost of this tract was about $1,500. The territorial legislature which met at Belmont, Lafayette county, the next winter, passed an act locating the capital here, and John Catlin and Moses M. Strong staked out the center of the village in February of the same winter. In the mean time commissioners were appointed by the general government, to construct the capitol edifice: Messrs. James D. Doty, A. A. Bird, and John F. O'Neil, were the commissioners. Eben Peck was sent on with his family to erect a house, where the men employed in building the capitol might board and lodge, and was the first settler at Madison. He arrived on the 14th of April, in 1837, and put up a log house, which remains standing to this day, upon its original site, on block 107, Butler-street. This was, for about a year, the only public house in Madison.
On the 10th of June succeeding, A. A. Bird, the acting commissioner for constructing the capitol, accompanied by a party of thirty-six workmen, arrived. There was no road, at that time, from Milwaukie to the capital, and the party were compelled to make one for their teams and wagons as they came along. They left Milwaukie on the 1st of June, with four teams. It rained incessantly, the ground, drenched with water, was so soft that even with an ordinary road, their progress would have been slow, but when to this are added the obstructions of fallen trees, unbridged streams, hills whose steepness labor had not yet mitigated, and the devious course which they necessarily pursued, it is not surprising that ten days were spent in accomplishing a journey, which, since the advent of the iron horse into the Four Lake country, we are able to perform in a little more than three hours. They forded Rock River near the site of the present city of Watertown, and the Crawfish at Milford. The first glimpse they had of the sun during their journey was on the prairie, in this county, now known as the Sun Prairie— a name given it at the time, as a compliment to the luminary which beamed
Among the party that came with Bird was Darwin Clark, Charles Bird, David Hyer, and John Pierce; the latter accompanied by his family, being the second settler with a family. On the same day that this party reached here, Simeon Mills, now a resident of Madison, and well known through the county, arrived from Chicago. John Catlin had been appointed postmaster, but was not here, and Mr. M. acted as his deputy. He erected a block building, fifteen feet square, and in this opened the postoffice and the first store in Madison. The building is yet extant, and at present stands in the rear of a blacksmith shop, and is used as a coal house. During the following month John Catlin arrived, and was the first member of the legal profession that settled in Madison. William N. Seymour, another old settler and well known citizen, came here the same season, and was the second lawyer in the place. The workmen upon the capitol proceeded at once to getting out stone and timber for that edifice, and, on the Fourth of July, the corner stone was laid, with due ceremony. Speeches were made on the occasion and toasts drunk, whether in cold water, or some stronger beverage, tradition does not mention.
The first framed building erected was a small office for the acting commissioner; the first framed dwelling was built by A. A. Bird. This still stands upon its original site, on the bank of Lake Monona, back of the Capital House. The boards used in these buildings were sawed by hand. A steam saw mill, to saw lumber for the capitol, was built during the latter part of the same season, on the shore of Lake Mendota, just below the termination of Pinkney-street. In the month of September, of the same year, John Stoner arrived, being the third settler with a family. A Methodist clergyman, the Rev. Mr. Stebbins, the presiding elder of the territory, preached the first sermon delivered in Madison, during the same month. Four families, with their inmates and guests, constituted the entire population of Madison, and with two or three families at Blue Mounds, the whole population of Dane county during the winter of 1837-8. In the spring of 1838, Messrs. A. A. Bird, Simeon Mills, William A. Wheeler, and others, who spent the winter here, brought on their families and became permanent residents. During the summer the Madison Hotel was built, and the first session of the supreme court of the territory was held in July, in the sitting room. Judge Dunn, of Lafayette county, was then chief justice, with Judges Frazier and Irwin as associates. The work on the capitol went on somewhat slowly. On the 8th of November, the
Wisconsin Enquirer
, by J. A. Noonan, made its appearance, being the pioneer paper at the capital.
The resident population of Madison, the second winter, was about one hundred souls. The first female child born in Madison was Wisconsinia Peck, born in the fall of 1837; the first male child was Madison Stoner, born in 1838. Dr. Almon Lull, the first physician, settled here during the same year.
The
Wisconsin Enquirer
of May 25, 1839, contains an article respecting Dane county, in which the population of the county is estimated at over three hundred, more than half of whom resided in Madison. This was, doubtless, too high an estimate, as the population by the census of 1840 was but 314. The village then contained two stores, three public houses, three groceries, and one steam mill—in all, thirty-five buildings. The same article states that prices had ranged during the year then past as follows: corn, $1 25
For a number of years the growth of the village was slow. Immediately after the location of the capital, all the lands in the vicinity were entered by speculators, and lots and land were held at a prospective value. The location being at a central point between the Mississippi and Lake Michigan, the advancing army of immigrants, on either hand, found a wide, fertile and beautiful extent of country, at that time nearer market, and therefore holding out superior attractions to the agriculturist. They did not consequently care to indulge the speculator's appetite for fancy prices. This condition of affairs continued until 1848. In the meantime the fertile valley of Rock River had been filled with settlers, and immigration began to turn into Dane county, which possesses a soil as bountiful and a surface of country as attractive as any county in the state, but which, before it was tapped by railroads, was too far from market to render agriculture remunerative.
The beginning of the real prosperity and growth of Madison commenced with the admission of the state into the Union, in 1848. The constitutional convention then permanently located the capital here; until that time there had been fears of its removal, and capitalists had hesitated to invest their money in the vicinity. Since that period its progress in wealth and population has been rapid and constant.
In 1847, L. J. Farwell, of Milwaukie, attracted by the beauty of the location, and foreseeing its advantages as the natural business center of the interior, the point of convergence of the principal lines of travel, and the capital of the state, made an extensive purchase of real estate, comprising a portion of the village plat and of lands lying adjacent, which included the unimproved water power between Lakes Monona and Mendota. To the active enterprise, the liberal policy, and the public spirit of this gentleman, Madison is largely indebted for her present prosperity and growing greatness.”
We conclude this sketch of Madison with Child's account of the first session of the territorial legislature in the place, which met Nov. 26, 1838:
The new capitol edifice was not yet in a suitable condition to receive the legislature; so we had to assemble in the basement of the old American House, where Gov. Dodge delivered his first message at the new seat of government. We adjourned from day to day, until we could get into the new capitol building. At length we took possession of the new Assembly Hall. The floors were laid with green oak boards, full of ice; the walls of the room were iced over; green oak seats, and desks made of rough boards; one fire-place and one small stove. In a few days the flooring near the stove and fire-place so shrunk on account of the heat, that a person could run his hands between the boards. The basement story was all open, and James Morrison's large drove of hogs had taken possession; they were awfully poor, and it would have taken two of them, standing side by side, to have made a decent shadow on a bright day. We had a great many smart members in the house, and sometimes they spoke for Buncombe. When members of this ilk would become too tedious, I would take a long pole, go at the hogs, and stir them up; when they would raise a young pandemonium for noise and confusion. The speaker's voice would become completely drowned, and he would be compelled to stop, not, however, without giving his squealing disturbers a sample of his swearing ability.
The weather was cold; the halls were cold, our ink would freeze, everything froze—so when we could stand it no longer, we passed a joint resolution to adjourn for twenty days. I was appointed by the two houses to procure carpeting for both halls during the recess; I bought all I could find in the territory, and brought it to Madison, and put it down after covering the floor with a thick coating of hay. After this, we were more comfortable. The American Hotel was the only public house in Madison, except that Mr. Peck kept a few boarders in his old log house, which was still standing not long since. We used to have tall times in those days—times long to be remembered. The Forty Thieves were then in their infancy; stealing was carried on in a small way. Occasionally a bill would be fairly stolen through the legislature; and the territory would get gouged a little now and then.
The Four Lakes.
The “
Four Lakes,
” in the midst of which Madison is so beautifully placed, is a striking feature of the country, which is called the “garden spot” of Wisconsin. The land around them is undulating, and consists mostly of prairies and “oak openings,” bearing in some respects a resemblance to English park scenery. Fourth Lake, or Lake Mendota, is the largest of the chain, and from 50 to 70 feet deep. It is navigable for small steamers. “The land around this lake rises gradually from its margin, and forms, in the distance, the most beautiful elevations, the slopes of which are studded with clumps of woods, and groves of trees, forming the most charming natural scenery. The water of all these lakes, coming from springs, is cold and clear to a remarkable degree. For the most part, their shores are made of a fine gravel shingle; and their bottoms, which are visible at a great depth, are composed of white sand, interspersed with granite bowlders. Their banks, with few exceptions, are bold. A jaunt around them affords almost every variety of scenery—bold escarpments and overhanging bluffs, elevated peaks, and gently sloping shores, with graceful swells or intervals, affording magnificent views of the distant prairies and openings; they abound in fish of a great variety, and innumerable water-fowl sport upon the surface. Persons desiring to settle in pleasant locations, with magnifcent water views and woodland
The term “Four Lake Country,” is applied to Dane county, in which these lakes are situated. This county contains about 1,250 square miles, nearly equal to the entire state of Rhode Island, which has 1,300 square miles. Only one sixth of the land is yet settled, and all is susceptible of culture. “Were Dane county as thickly settled as the French departments of Rhone, Nord, and Lower Rhine, it would sustain a population of 700,000 souls.”
The first permanent American settler, within the limits of Dane county, was Ebenezer Brigham, of Blue Mounds. “He journeyed from Massachusetts to St. Louis in 1818; thence, in the spring of 1828, he removed to Blue Mounds, the most advanced outpost in the mines, and has resided there ever since, being, by four years at least, the oldest white settler in the county. The isolated position he thus settled upon will be apparent from the statement of a few facts. The nearest settler was at what is now Dodgeville, about twenty miles distant. Mineral Point, and most of the other diggings, where villages have since grown up, had not then been discovered. On the south-east, the nearest house was on the O'Plaine River, twelve miles west of Chicago. On the east, Solomon Juneau was his nearest neighbor, at the mouth of the Milwaukie River; and on the north-east, Green Bay was the nearest settlement—Fort Winnebago not then being projected. The country at this time was part of Michigan Territory.
For several years after his coming the savages were sole lords of the soil. A large Indian village stood near the mouth of Token creek; another stood on the ridge between the Second and Third Lakes, in plain view of Madison; and their wigwams were scattered all along the streams, the remnants of their gardens, etc., being still visible. Then there was not a civilized village in the state of any considerable size. When the capital was located, he was the nearest settler to it— twenty-four miles distant! He stood on the ground before its selection as the seat of government was thought of, and from the enchanting beauty of the spot, predicted that a village would be built there.”
Watertown
, Jefferson county, is finely situated on both sides of Rock River, on the Fond du Lac and Rock River Railroad, 40 miles easterly from Madison, at the great bend of the river, at the foot of Johnson's Rapids, where a dam across the river creates a great water power, which is extensively used for manufacturing purposes. It was settled in 1836, and has had a rapid growth. Population, in 1860, 5,800.
Prairie du Chien,
the county seat of Crawford county, stands upon the left bank of the Mississippi, at the terminus of the Milwaukie and Mississippi Railroad, about three miles above the mouth of Wisconsin River, 96 miles W. of Madison, 192 from Milwaukie, 529 above St. Louis, and 296 below the Falls of St. Anthony. “It is beautifully situated on a dry alluvial prairie, about six miles in length along the river, by two miles wide. The southern and widest portion of the prairie is gently undulating, and so high above the river as never to be subject to inundation, and it is one of the best sites for a town on the river. The water is deep, affording natural and spacious harbors. On the opposite side of the river the bluffs rise directly from the water, are covered with a thick growth of forest trees, and are only broken by ravines, which afford roadways into the country west from the river. There is no room for any considerable town to be built on the river elsewhere, nearer than Dubuque, seventy miles south of this place, and for a distance of nearly one hundred miles north, on account of the high bluffs which rise, like the highlands of the Hudson, from the water's edge. Prairie
There are two landings here, one at the terminus of the Milwaukie and Mississippi Railroad, on the slough around the eastern side of an island in the Mississippi, the other, McGregor's landing, about 1½ miles northward of the railroad depot.
Fort Crawford
, now occupied by several laborers and their families, is delightfully situated on a gentle elevation of the prairie, about half a mile from the shore. Water is obtained within the walls of the fort from a well 65 feet deep. Population is about 5,000.
South-western view of Fort Crawford, at Prairie du Chien.
The Hospital is situated on the right. The high grounds seen back from the fort, with the horizontal ranges of stone cropping out from the surface, is characteristic of the appearance of the bluffs on this side of the Mississippi.
According to tradition, Prairie du Chien was named from an Indian chief by the name of
Chien
, or Dog, who had a village on the prairie, near where Fort Crawford now stands—Chien, or Dog, is a favorite name among the Indians of the north-west. About the year 1737, the French established a trading post at this place, and built a stockade around their dwellings to protect them from the Indians, and from that day to modern times it continued to be a trading and military post, though occasionally a worn out voyageur got married and settled down upon the spot. The land at this point was not purchased from the Indians, and none surveyed except the private claims on the prairie, for many years after the government took possession of it as a military post. There were not, until 1835, any Americans that emigrated to the prairie for settlement.
In 1819, Lewis Cass, the governor of Michigan Territory, sent blank commissions for the different officers of the counties, to be filled up by the inhabitants. These were taken by Lieut. Col. Leavenworth, then on his way, with the fifth regiment, to occupy Forts Crawford and Armstrong, and to build a fort at the mouth of St. Peters. Two companies of this regiment, under Maj. Muhlenberg, were detached to Prairie du Chien. Soon after receiving the blank commissions, the principal inhabitants assembled at the house of Nicholas Boilvin, and appointed John W. Johnson, U. S. factor, as chief justice of the county court; Wilfred Owens, judge of probate; N. Boilvin, J. W. Johnson, and James H. Lockwood, justices of the peace; J. S. Findley, clerk; J. P. Gates, register; and Thomas McNair, sheriff.“Early Times and Events in Wisconsin,”
by Hon. James H. Lockwood:
“In the year 1820–'21, the county authorities of Crawford erected a jail in the old village of Prairie du Chien, in the rear of village lot No. 17 of that village, made of hewn oak logs of about one foot square; the house was 25 by 16 feet, and divided by the same kind of logs into a debtors' and criminals' apartments.
There is a tract of land nearly opposite the old village of Prairie du Chien in Iowa, which was granted by the Spanish lieut. governor of Louisiana to one Bazil Girard, and running through it was a small stream or brook, usually called Girard's creek; but, in 1823, the commandant of Fort Crawford had a body of men detailed to cultivate a public garden on the old farm of Girard, on said creek, and Martin Scott, then a lieutenant of the fifth infantry, and stationed at Fort Crawford, was directed to superintend the party. Fond of shooting, and a great shot generally, he took his dogs and gun every morning, got into his little hunting canoe, and spent the day in shooting woodcocks which were plenty in the marshes about there, and returning in the evening would boast of the number that had bled that day. After a while he gave the creek the name of
Bloody Run
, which name it still bears. The name generally suggests to strangers the idea of some bloody battle having been fought there, and I have been frequently questioned as to the tradition relative to it, and a few years since the editor of our village paper had somewhere picked up the same romantic idea, and published a long traditionary account of a bloody battle pretended to have been fought there years ago. But the creek is indebted for its name to the hunting exploits of Major Martin Scott, when a lieutenant, and stationed at Fort Crawford.
On the 16th of September, 1816, I arrived at Prairie du Chien. a traders' village of between twenty-five and thirty houses, situated on the banks of the Mississippi, on what, in high water, is an island. The houses were built by planting posts upright in the ground with grooves in them, so that the sides could be filled in with split timber or round poles, and then plastered over with clay, and white-washed with a white earth found in the vicinity, and then covered with bark, or clapboards riven from oak.
The village, now called the old village of Prairie du Chien, was designated by Lyons as the main village, as it was so at the time he surveyed the private land claims of Prairie du Chien.
There were on the prairie about forty farms cultivated along under the bluffs, where the soil was first rate, and inclosed in one common field, and the boundaries generally between them marked by a road that afforded them ingress and egress to their fields; the plantations running from the bluffs to the Mississippi, or to the slough of St. Freole, and from three to five arpents wide. The owners did not generally live immediately on their farms, but clustered together in little villages near their front, and were much the same description of inhabitants as those of Green Bay, except that there were a number of families of French extraction, entirely unmixed with the natives, who came from the French villages of Illinois. The farmers' wives instead of being of the Indian tribes about, were generally of the mixed blood. They were living in Arcadian simplicity, spending a great part of their time in fishing, hunting, horse racing or trotting, or in dancing and drinking. They had little or no ambition for progress and improvement, or in any way bettering their condition, provided their necessities were supplied, and they
It was said, that about 1809 or 1810, a trader, an Irishman by birth, of the name of Campbell, was appointed by the U. S. government sub-Indian agent at Prairie du Chien, and by the governor of the Territory of Illinois a justice of the peace. The currency of Prairie du Chien was at that time flour, and Campbell charged for
celebrating
the rites of matrimony 100 pounds of flour, and for
dissolving
it 200 pounds, alleging that when people wanted to
get unmarried
, they would willingly
give double
what they would originally to form the matrimonial connection.
In speaking of the courts of justice of the country, and of their county seats, Mr. Brisbois related to me, that sometime previous to the war of 1812, he and Mr. Campbell had a dispute about a heifer that was worth at the time perhaps eight dollars; and as each believed it to be his property, they applied to the lawyer at Cahokia to assist them in finding out who was the real owner. The mode of traveling in those days was in a canoe, manned with six or eight men to paddle, and taking with them some flour, tea, and sugar for the Burgeois; and some hulled corn and deer tallow, enough to season the soup, for the men, depending upon shooting game by the way, or buying wild fowl or venison from the Indians. The parties litigant were obliged to take their witnesses with them, paying them for their time and expenses, from their departure until their return home. The parties were also obliged to take a bundle of beaver skins, and dispose of them at St. Louis to pay the expenses of lawyers, etc.; and the lawyers, as usual, were disposed to oblige the parties by putting over the case from time to time, and the parties continued the suit in this manner until it had cost them about fifteen hundred dollars each, when they took it out of court and settled it. But which retained the heifer, if I ever heard, I do not now recollect.
The
coutume de Paris
so far prevailed in this country generally, that a part of the ceremony of marriage was the entering into a contract in writing, generally giving, if no issue, the property to the survivor; and if they desired to be divorced, they went together before the magistrate, and made known their wishes, and he, in their presence, tore up the marriage contract, and according to the custom of the country, they were then divorced. I was once present at Judge Abbott's at Mackinaw, when a couple presented themselves before him, and were divorced in this manner. When the laws of Michigan were first introduced at Prairie du Chien, it was with difficulty that the justice of the peace could persuade them that a written contract was not necessary, and some of them believed that because the contract of marriage gave the property to the survivor, that they were not obliged to pay the debts which the deceased owed at the time of his death.
There was an instance of this at Prairie du Chien. A man by the name of Jean Marie Quen (de Lamouche), who had been married by contract, died without issue, leaving a widow, some personal property, and a good farm, but was indebted to Joseph Rolette about $300, which his widow refused to pay, alleging that the contract of marriage gave her all the property; nor could she be convinced to the contrary, until I had brought a suit against her and obtained a judgment.”
“In speaking of the early settlers, and their marriage connections, I should perhaps explain a little. In the absence of religious instructions, and it becoming so
75
The traders in the British interest, in the war of 1812, resorted to Mackinaw as their head-quarters. In order to obtain the whole control of the Indian trade, they fitted out an expedition under Col. McKay, consisting of three or four companies of Canadians, commanded by traders and officered by their clerks, all in red coats, with a body of Indians. Having made a secret march, they arrived on the prairie without being expected. Making a formidable show, and the Americans being out of ammunition and provisions, they surrendered, and the British kept possession during the war.
“In the spring of 1817, a Roman Catholic priest from St. Louis, called Pere Priere, visited Prairie du Chien. He was the first that had been there for many years, and perhaps since the settlement, and organized a Roman Catholic Church, and disturbed some of the domestic arrangements of the inhabitants. He found several women who had left their husbands and were living with other men; these he made by the terror of his church to return and ask pardon of their husbands, and to be taken back by them, which they of course could not refuse.
Brevet General Smyth, the colonel of the rifle regiment, who came to Prairie du Chien to erect Fort Crawford, in 1816, had arrived in June, and selected the mound where the stockade had been built, and the ground in front, to include the most thickly inhabited part of the village. The ground thus selected encroached upon the ancient burying ground of the prairie, so that the inhabitants were obliged to remove their dead to another place.
During the winter of 1816, or early in the spring of 1817, Lieut. Col. Talbot Chambers arrived at Fort Crawford, and assumed the command, and the houses in the village being an obstruction to the garrison, in the spring of 1817, he ordered those houses in front and about the fort to be taken down by their owners, and removed to the lower end of the village, where he pretended to give them lots.”
“When I first came to the country, it was the practice of the old traders and interpreters to call any inferior article of goods American, and to speak to the Indians in a contemptuous manner of the Americans and their goods, and the goods which they brought into the country but too generally warranted this reproach. But after Mr. Astor had purchased out the South-west Company and established the American Fur Company, he succeeded in getting suitable kinds of goods for the Indians, except at first the North-west Indian gun. He attempted to introduce an imitation of them, manufactured in Holland, but it did not succeed, as the Indians soon detected the difference.
At that time there were generally collected at Prairie du Chien, by the traders and U. S. factors, about three hundred packs of one hundred pounds each of furs and peltries, mostly fine furs. Of the different Indian tribes that visited and traded more or less at Prairie du Chien, there were the Menomonees, from Green Bay, who frequently wintered on the Mississippi; the Chippewas, who resided on the head waters of the Chippewa and Black Rivers; the Foxes, who had a large village
The Sauks and Foxes brought from Galena a considerable quantity of lead, molded in the earth, in bars about two feet long, and from six to eight inches wide, and from two to four inches thick, being something of an oval form, and thickest in the middle, and generally thinning to the edge, and weighing from thirty to forty pounds. It was not an uncommon thing to see a Fox Indian arrive at Prairie du Chien, with a hand sled, loaded with twenty or thirty wild turkies for sale, as they were very plenty about Cassville, and occasionally there were some killed opposite Prairie du Chien.”
“In the year 1828, Gen. Joseph M. Street was appointed Indian agent at Prairie du Chien, and arrived alone in the fall of that year to assume the duties of his office; and, in the winter, returned to Illinois, and brought his family to Prairie du Chien in the spring of the following year, being the first family who settled in Prairie du Chien that made a profession of the Protestant faith of any of the different sects.”
“In 1830, the present Fort Crawford was commenced, and in 1831, it was occupied with a part of the troops, leaving the sick in the old hospital, and the surgeon in the old fort. The fort, I think, was finished in 1832. In 1833, the authorities of Crawford county concluded to build a court house and jail, and commenced raising funds by increasing the taxes; and, in 1836, constructed a stone building of sufficient size to have on the ground floor a room each for criminals and debtors, and two rooms for the jailer, with a court room and two jury rooms on the second floor. The taxable inhabitants then in the county were confined to the prairie. We were then attached to Michigan Territory, and so well were our county affairs managed, that the taxes were not raised more than five mills on a dollar to pay for this improvement; and this was the first court house erected in Wisconsin.”
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in a small graveyard, in a grove of locust trees, a short distance north of Fort Crawford:
Sacred to the memory of
Capt. Edgar M. Lacy,
5th Reg. U. S. Inft., who died at Fort Crawford, April 2, 1839, aged 33 years. He awaits the last
Review.
Erected by the 5th Infantry.
Sacred to the memory of
Willoughby Morgan,
Col. 1st Infy, U. S. Army, who died at Fort Crawford, April 4, 1832. Erected by the 5th Infantry.
Racine
is on the W. shore of Lake Michigan, at the mouth of Root River, 73 miles E.S.E. from Madison, 23 S.E. from Milwaukie, and 62 N. from Chicago. The Chicago and Milwaukie Railroad, connecting with the Racine and Mississippi Railroad, here opens a vast extent of prairie country to its trade. The outlet of Root River at this place gives it great commercial advantages; the average width in the city being 230 feet, and for more than half a mile it is 12 feet deep. Lake Michigan is 70 miles wide opposite Racine; the harbor is one of the most commodious on the entire chain of lakes. The city is finely located upon the high banks of the lake and river. Its broad, straight, and beautifully shaded avenues extend along the lake for miles. It contains several splendid buildings, 18 churches, among which are 4 German, 3 Welsh, and 1 Scandinavian; 4 newspapers are published here. Population, in 1840, 300; in 1850, 5,111; in 1860, 7,600.
The Racine College buildings are located in a delightful grove, overlooking a lake front of uncommon beauty. The college was founded by the citizens
Northern view of Racine.
The above shows the appearance of the central part of Racine, as entered from the west. The swing bridge over Root River is in the central part. The eastern terminus of the Racine and Mississippi Railroad appears on the left. The lake is a few rods beyond the buildings in the distance.
In 1834, Antoine Ouilmette came, with his Indian family, from Grosse Point, and located himself one mile from Racine. In November, of the same year, the east fractional half of section 9, was claimed by Capt. Knapp, of Racine. G. S. Hubbard, of Chicago, and J. A. Barker, of Buffalo, surveyed and laid out lots in 1836. The Root River postoffice was established in the same year, but discontinued in May, and the Racine postoffice established, Dr. B. B. Carey postmaster. The first regular inhabitants located themselves near the mouth of the river. The first house of worship was erected by the Presbyterians, on Wisconsin-street, and in a building lately used as a school house. The Rev. Mr. Foot was the first minister. The first school is believed to have been at the foot of Main-street, near the river.
Kenosha
, the county seat of Kenosha, the most southern lake port of Wisconsin, is on the W. shore of Lake Michigan, 10 miles S. of Racine. It has a good harbor and piers. It commands the trade of one of the finest farming districts of the west. Two small creeks empty into the lake, one above, the other below the port. Population is about 4,000.
Kenosha was known at first by the name of
Pike River.
In 1841, it was incorporated a village by the name of Southport; when incorporated a city, in 1850, it received the name of
Kenosha
, the Indian word for
Pike.
In Feb., 1835, a company was organized in Hannibal, Oswego county, N. Y., under the name of the “Western Emigration Society,” for the purpose of procuring a town site and effecting a settlement on the new lands of the west. An exploring
Janesville
, capital of Rock county, is on both sides of Rock River, 45 miles S.E. of Madison, at the intersection of the Milwaukie and Mississippi with the Fond du Lac and Rock River Railroad. It is one of the most important cities in the state, and is built principally on a level plain between the river and the bluffs, which are about 100 feet high. It has several large mills, for which the falls of the river at this point afford excellent sites. It is the center of an active and increasing trade. It was settled about the year 1836, and incorporated a city in 1853. It has 8 churches, the State Institution for the Blind, and, in 1860, 7,500 inhabitants.
Beloit
, a few miles below Janesville, in Rock county, on the railroad from Chicago to Madison, near the Illinois state line, is also on Rock River, which affords power for manufactories and mills of every description. The town was incorporated in 1845, and is adorned with fine churches and dwellings, spacious streets, and is the seat of that well known and popular institution, Beloit College. Population about 5,000.
Mineral Point
, the capital of Iowa county, is 47 miles W. S.W. of Madison, and 40 from Galena, Illinois. It stands on a point of land between two small streams, and is in the heart of the rich lead region. Immense quantities of lead are exported from this place, which is a point of active business, and has about 3,000 inhabitants. The following places in this section, are also connected with mining operations: Dodgeville, Platteville, Hazel Green, Lancaster, Highland, Mifflin and Potosi. The last named, Potosi, is on Grant River, near its mouth, 15 miles above Dubuque, and is the principal mineral depot of Wisconsin, large quantities of lead being shipped from here in steamboats. Cassville, 28 miles above Dubuque, on the Mississippi, is another important shipping point for lead.
This whole region is rich in lead, and numerous smelting furnaces are in operation. Many
lodes
of mineral have been worked that have produced $100,000 clear of all expenses. The price of mineral in 1838 averaged about $30 per 1,000 lbs. It has been sold as high as $40, and as low as $6. These fluctuations are not frequent, and a fair estimate may be made that mineral will not, for any length of time, be less than $25.
The great lead region of the north-west lies principally in this state, including, in Wisconsin, 62 townships of its south-western corner, about 10 in the north-western corner of Illinois, and about 8 in Iowa. Dr. Owen, in his Report of the Geology of Wisconsin, says:
“This lead region is, in general, well watered; namely, by the Pekatonica, Apple, Fever, Platte and Grand Rivers, the head-waters of the Blue River and Sugar
All the valuable deposits of lead ore, which have as yet been discovered, occur either in fissures or rents in the cliff rock, or else are found imbedded in the recent deposits which overlie these rocks. These fissures vary in thickness from a wafer to even fifty feet; and many of them extend to a very great, and at present unknown depth. Upon the whole, a review of the resources and capabilities of this lead region, taken in connection with its statistics (in so far as it was possible to collect these), induces me to say, with confidence, that ten thousand miners could find profitable employment within its confines. If we suppose each of these to raise daily one hundred and fifty pounds of ore, during six months of each year only, they would produce annually upward of one hundred and fifty millions pounds of lead—more than is now furnished by the entire mines of Europe, those of Great Britain included. This estimate, founded upon reasonable data, presents in a striking point of view, the intrinsic value and commercial importance of the country upon which I am reporting—emphatically the lead region of northern America. It is, so far as my reading or experience extends, decidedly the richest in the known world.”
In the Reports of the State Historical Society, Mr. Stephen Taylor has given some interesting items upon the origin of lead mining by the first settlers of the country, with a sketch of the state of society among the early miners. Says he:
“For some time prior to the settlement of the lead mines, the miners, under the regulations of the war department, were licensed to explore and occupy the mineral lands in that region, though in consequence of the hostility of the Indians to the explorations and encroachments of the whites, they seldom ventured far beyond that protection which numerical strength and the defensive organizations near Galena secured.
It was in the autumn of 1827, upon the cessation of the Winnebago disturbances, that the more daring and enterprising, prompted by the hope of discovering vast mineral treasures, the existence of which over a wide extent of territory, the many flattering accounts had so truthfully pictured, banded together in well armed squads, overrun the country
prospecting
in all directions. They were usually, in those times, governed by certain surface indications, the most infallible of which were the old Indian diggings, which were found in almost every direction, and their locations were marked by the many small aspen groves or patches indigenous to the upturned clay of the prairies in the lead region. By the rude and superficial mode of excavation by the red men, much mineral remained in the diggings, as well as among the rubbish; mining in these old burrows, therefore, not only at once justified the labor, but frequently led to the discovery of productive mines. ‘Gravel mineral,’ carbonized so as to be scarcely distinguished from water-worn pebbles, and occasionally lumps weighing several pounds, were exciting evidences of the existence of larger bodies upon the highlands in the vicinity. The
amorpha canescens
, or ‘masonic weed,’ peculiar to the whole country, when found in a cluster of rank growth, also attracted the attention of the Indian as well as the more experienced miner, as it was supposed to indicate great depth of clay or the existence of crevices in the rock beneath. By such means were the mineral resources of Wisconsin explored and developed, and thus was the manner of the discovery of the productive mines at
Mineral Point
—a piece of land elevated about two hundred feet, narrowing and descending to a point, situated in the midst of a valley. as it were—a ravine bounding the same both eastward and westward, through which tributaries of the Pekatonica River flow, uniting in a wider valley to the southward. It was upon
this point
that the ‘leads were struck,’ the fame of which spread, and so quickly became the center of attraction, the miners flocking to thempoint.
Females, in consequence of the dangers and privations of those primitive times, were as rare in the diggings as snakes upon the Emerald Isle, consequently the bachelor miner, from necessity performed the domestic duties of cook and washerman, and the preparation of meals was indicated by appending a rag to an upright pole, which, flutterings in the breeze, telegraphically conveyed the glad tidings to his hungered brethren upon the hill. Hence, this circumstance, at a very early date, gave the provincial
sobriquet
of
‘Shake Rag,’
or
‘Shake Rag under the Hill,’
which that part of the now flourishing village of Mineral Point, lying under the hill, has acquired, and which in all probability it will ever retain. So much for the origin of Mineral Point. I will now venture a few remarks regarding the manners and customs of its inhabitants in days of yore.
The continued prosperity of the mines, in a comparatively brief period, increased the population of the village to several hundred, comprised, as is usual in mineral regions, of representatives from every clime and country, and in such conglomeration, it is fair to presume. Of every stripe of character. This increase of population, including many of those expert in the ‘profession,’ warranted the establishment of numerous gambling saloons, groceries—a refined name for groggeries— and other like places of dissipation and amusement, where the unwary, and those flushed with success in digging, could be ‘taken in and done for,’ or avail themselves of opportunities voluntarily to dispose of their accumulated means, either in drowning their sorrows in the bowl, or ‘fighting the tiger’ in his den.
Notwithstanding such were the practices almost universally, more or less, indulged in by the denizens, yet the protracted winters in this then secluded, uncultivated and sparsely populated country, and, for that reason, the absence of those more reputable enjoyments which mellow and refine sociality in other regions, in a measure justified a moderate participation in this mode of driving
dull
cares away. These congenial customs, peculiarly western, were as firmly based as the laws which governed the Medes and Persians, and we to those, from lands of steadier habits, who would endeavor to introduce innovations adverse to the established policy of those days! Hence the propriety and necessity of harmonizing with, and following in the trail of the popular will. But such, I am happy in the conviction, is not
now
the case—virtue, in the progress of events, has naturally succeeded profligacy, and Mineral Point, freed from contamination, stands redeemed of her former errors.”
* Among the most distinguished of the earliest pioneers of Mineral Point, are Col. Robt. C. Board, Col. Robert S. Black (now of Dodgeville), Col. Henry M. Billings, Col. Daniel M. Parkison, Col. Abner Nichols, Francis Vivian, Parley Eaton, Levi Sterling, Edward Beouchard, Josiah Tyack, James James, Samuel Thomas, Mrs. Hood, Amzi W. Comfort, O. P. Williams (now of Portage City), M. V. B. Burris, Milton Bevans, Peter Hartman, John F. O'Neill, William Sublett, John Phillips, John Milton, George Cubbage, James Hitchins, John Caserly, Edward Coode, and William Tregay. And the following, who have since paid the debt of nature, viz: Col. John D. Ansley, Col. John McNair, Robert Dougherty, Capt. William Henry, Stephen Terrill, Mark Terrill, Dr. Edward MeSherry, Dr. Richard G. Ridgley, Nicholas Uren, Richard Martin, James S. Bowden, John Hood, Lord Blaney, Joseph Sylvester, Matthew G. Fitch, Thomas McKnight, Stephen B. Thrasher, Robert W. Gray, Joseph Morrison, James Hugo, Hugh R. Hunter, Edward James (late U. S. Marshal), William Prideaux, Joseph James, Benjamin Salter, and “Cadwallader, the keg-maker.”
La Crosse
, the capital of La Crosse county, is beautifully situated on the Mississippi, at the mouth of La Crosse River, 200 miles N. W. of Milwaukie by railroad, and 303 miles below St. Paul, by the river. It contains a large
The place possesses peculiar advantages from being the terminus of the Milwaukie and La Crosse Railroad. “It is probably the most northerly east and west road that will be built in the state for many years, and has, consequently, as tributaries, all northern Wisconsin, west of Lake Winnebago, with the exception of a narrow strip on the borders of Lake Superior, and the greater portion of Minnesota, extending far away to the Red River of the North, the Sascatchawine, and, ultimately, the North Pacific Railroad.”
About 60 miles above La Crosse is that beautiful expansion of the Mississippi, known to all travelers as Lake Pepin. For about 25 miles the river is expanded to a width of from two to three miles, with majestic bluffs of limestone on each shore. On the Wisconsin shore, rising about two hundred feet above the water, is the noted Maiden's Rock, the scene of the Indian legend of Winona, the daughter of an Indian chief. She was betrothed by her father to a favorite warrior; but her affections were fixed on one younger though not less brave. On the day appointed for her wedding, she wandered from the gay assemblage under pretense of searching for some berries that grew in profusion on this bluff, when her companions, to their surprise, heard from her lips a low, plaintive sound: it was the
death song
, and in a moment more, ere they could interfere, she cast herself head-long from the rock, and was buried in the deep, cold waters below.
The Maiden's Rock,
On Lake Pepin, an expansion of the Mississippi
Prescott
and
Hudson
are two flourishing towns in this part of the state The first is at the junction of the St. Croix River, with the Mississippi—the last on that expansion of the St. Croix, called Lake St. Croix.
The St. Croix River which separates Wisconsin from Minnesota, is celebrated for its pineries, the value of its trade in lumber exceeding three millions of dollars per annum.
“The lumbermen of the St. Croix, during the sessions of the Wisconsin and Minnesota legislatures of 1850–1, procured the incorporation of the ‘St. Croix Boom Company,’ with a capital of $10,000. This work was considered absolutely necessary, to facilitate the business of driving, assorting, and rafting logs. The stock was speedily taken; and by the following season the boom was built and ready for service. The work is substantial and permanent. Piers of immense size are sunk at proper distances, from the Minnesota shore to the foot of a large island near the center of the stream, and again from the head of the island to the Wisconsin shore. The boom timbers are hung from pier to pier, and the whole river is entirely commanded, with no possibility of scarcely a single log escaping The charter of the company compels them, however, to give free passage to all boats, rafts, etc., ascending or descending the river. This duty is rather difficult to perform at certain times, particularly when the logs are running into the boom briskly, and hands are not to be had to raft and run them out: sometimes a barrier of three or four miles intervene, and thus temporarily closes navigation. With a full complement of men the boom can always be kept clear at the point where it crosses the main channel of the river. The importance of the lumber business of the St. Croix River would hardly be estimated by a stranger. Large quantities are
Fond du Lac
, the capital of Fond du Lac county, is 72 miles N.N.W. of Milwaukie, with which it has railroad connections. It stands at the southern extremity of Lake Winnebago, the largest of the inland lakes of the state, being about 30 miles long and 10 broad, forming a link in the chain of navigable waters which connect the Great Lakes with the Mississippi. The Portage Canal, on this water way, between the Fox and Wisconsin Rivers, was opened in 1856, and steamers pass from the lake to the Wisconsin River. Anciently it was a French trading post, established here for the purpose of traffic with the Winnebagoes, who had a village where Taychudah now is, three miles east of the site of the place. The town has grown up within a very few years. Population about 5,000.
A traveler here in the fall of 1859, discourses thus agreeably upon the town and country:
“I like the west, and especially Wisconsin. The country has captivated me— the prairies, the pure air, clear sky, fine farms, the perfectly rural air of the whole and the hospitality of the people. What splendid farming land around Fond du Lac—how easy to till to a New England farmer; smooth fields without a rock, scarce a stone, that when first cultivated yield 40 bushels of wheat to the acre, and afterward 18 or 20; garden ground unequaled for vegetables, and a good market in the city for all that is for sale. Corn planted in June ripens before the last of August. Apples, pears, grapes and plums thrive well, and all the small fruits yield abundantly. Here is a wild plum of fine flavor, and much used to make a sauce for meat, with spices added. All the fruit trees I saw looked healthy and vigorous, and free from the ravages of insects.
The winters are longer than ours, and the thermometer indicates greater cold, but residents say the cold is not so severe as at the east, from the absence of wind. Long storms are very uncommon, and a clear air and bright sun belong to their winter, and the dry, pure atmosphere render this climate advantageous to those afflicted with pulmonary complaints. It seemed to me especially good for nervous people and those troubled with neuralgic pains. Fever and ague are not known here; accounts of its good effects in consumptive cases are authenticated.
Fond du Lac, the
city of fountains
, named from the Artesian wells which supply it with water, bears the promise of a great city. The site is part prairie and part woodland, a river dividing it. Twelve years ago it had but one chimney, and the pockets of most of its early settlers, were as deficient in means as the houses of this most necessary appurtenance; now it has a population of thousands, churches of various kinds, some fine stores, and one especially fine block, containing a hall which is said to be the handsomest in the west, and capable of accommodating three thousand people. The hall has a center dome of stained glass, and the effect is very pleasing. From the top of the building an incomparable view is to be had of the city, lake, prairie, river and woods. The foreign element here is German, and an intelligent class of people, obedient to law, and comprehending the opportunities a free country offers to them and their children. The people look healthy and happy, and there is an appearance of comfort and thrift about them and their dwellings. There are no showy houses, but neat, well-arranged buildings, with yards, in which stand the forest trees found there, and enlivened by flowers and shrubs. The settlers have shown a taste and for respect for the forest trees leaving them unmolested, and clumps of oaks and hickories in the cultivated fields are pleasant to look upon, and their shade must delight the cattle in summer. The beauty of this country is indescribable, the whole having the appearance of a well cared for park.
A ridge of limestone runs from Green Bay to the end of Lake Michigan, numerous streams run from this, and vast quantities of limestone slabs ready for use can be taken from the quarries and furnished to the city at two cents a square foot.
Oshkosh
, is named from an Indian chief of the Menomonee tribe, the word signifying “brave.” It is a thriving city, with great facilities for trade where but a few years since all was a dense wilderness. It stands on the western bank of Lake Winnebago, at the mouth of the Fox River, and has railroad connections with the east, west and south. The city contains 6 churches, 4 newspapers, a large number of grist and other mills manufactures annually about 30 millions of feet of lumber, and has about 6,000 inhabitants.
When the Fox River Improvement is completed, this city will be on the direct line of steamboat navigation between Lake Michigan and the Mississippi. This enterprise is described as follows in Ritchie's work on the state:
“The Fox River, or, as it is called by the Indians, Neenah, is one of the most important rivers in the state. It rises in Marquette county, and flows nearly south-west, toward the Wisconsin; when within one and a half miles of that river, it changes its direction to the north; after flowing a few miles, it passes through Lake Winnebago, and falls into Green Bay. Its whole length is estimated at two hundred miles.
The whole length of canal necessary to secure a steamboat communication from Green Bay to Lake Winnebago, is about five miles. It is 100 feet wide on the bottom, and 120 at the top (two feet wider than the famous Welland Canal). The locks are 40 feet wide, by 160 long, and built in the most permanent manner, of solid stone masonry, and in a style that will not suffer in comparison with any similar work in the eastern states. It is calculated that with the improved manner of working these locks, a steamer can pass each in the short space of three minutes. This will afford a rapid transit for the vast amount of freight that must and will seek an outlet through this thoroughfare to an eastern market. The capacity of the river for all purposes of navigation is undoubted; at no season of the year can there be any failure of water.
Twelve miles above Oshkosh, westward, is the mouth of the Wolf River, a tributary of the Fox, and navigable for steamers for one hundred and fifty miles. Forty miles above the mouth of Wolf River is the town of Berlin; sixty miles further is Portage City and the town of Fort Winnebago; above which places, for sixty miles, and below for one hundred and thirty-five miles, the Wisconsin is now navigable for steamers.
Through these, a ready communication will be secured with the Mississippi and its tributaries; and it is confidently calculated that, at no distant day, steam tugs, with between 200 and 500 tuns burden in tow, each, from St. Peter's River, from St. Paul, and other places in that direction, will land their cargoes at Green Bay, to be shipped to an eastern market. The objection to be urged to this route, from so remote a locality, is, that it will take too long to make the transit. To this we have to reply, that it is estimated by those who know better than we, that this great distance can and will be overcome by just these kinds of crafts in from four to six days, and by passenger boats in much less time. This improvement will open about 1,000 miles to steam navigation, between Lake Michigan and the Mississippi River, including the navigable streams in the interior of northern Wisconsin, Iowa and Minnesota. This stupendous work, when completed, will do far more for the prosperity and advancement of the vast regions, opened to the advantages of connection with the Atlantic market, than any other improvement contemplated.”
Portage City
is at the head of navigation on the Wisconsin River, about 200 miles from its mouth, and on the ship canal one and a half miles long,
Fort Winnebago in
1831.
Mrs. John H. Kinzie, in
“Wau-bun
, the ‘Early Day’ in the North-west,” gives a graphic narrative of her experiences at Fort Winnebago, where she passed the winter of 1830-31, the first months of her wedded life. This winter was one of unusual severity, and in some parts of the country, particularly the lead mining district, the snow was of an unheard of depth— five or six feet upon a level. Toward the beginning of March the weather moderated, and Mrs. Kinzie prepared to make a journey on horseback to Chicago with her husband. This was then through a wilderness country, and the undertaking so perilous that the commandant, Major Twiggs, endeavored to dissuade them from it: but the brave-hearted, high spirited young woman remained resolute. The story of their experience by the way, we abridge from Mrs. Kinzie's narrative. The route selected was south by Dixon's, then called Ogie's Ferry, where was to be found the only means of crossing the broad and rapid stream of Rock River; and it was calculated that the entire distance would be traveled over in six days:
The morning of the 8th of March, having taken a tender leave of their friends, they mounted and were ready for the journey. The party consisted of Mr. and Mrs. Kinzie and two French Canadians, Pierre Roy and Plante, the latter to act as a guide, on the assurance that he “knew every mile of the way, from the Portage to Ogie's Ferry, and from Ogie's Ferry to Chicago.
Some of the young officers escorted them as far as Duck Creek, four miles distant. In attempting to cross this stream in a canoe, a couple of favorite greyhounds sprang in upon Mrs. Kinzie, and the canoe balanced a moment—then yielded—and quick as thought, dogs and lady were in deepest of water. That evening the party camped out on the edge of the timber, under the shelter of a tent; but so intense was the cold that, although Mrs. Kinzie's riding habit was placed to dry over against the log on which their fire was made, it was in a few minutes frozen so stiff as to stand upright, giving “the appearance of a dress out of which a lady had vanished in some unaccountable manner.” Says Mrs. Kinzie;
“At break of day we are aroused by the shout of ‘the bourgeois,’
‘How! how! how!’
All start from their slumbers. The fire which has been occasionally replenished through the night, is soon kindled into a flame. The horses are caught and saddled while a breakfast is preparing—the tent is struck—the pack-horse loaded—
‘tout demanche,’
as the Canadian says.
Our journey this day led us past the first of the Four Lakes. Scattered along its banks was an encampment of Winnebagoes. How beautiful the encampment looked in the morning sun! The matted lodges, with the blue smoke curling from their tops—the trees and bushes powdered with a light snow which had fallen through the night—the lake, shining and sparkling, almost at our feet—even the Indians, in their peculiar costume, adding to the picturesque!
Our road, after leaving the lake, lay over a ‘rolling prairie,’ now bare and desolate enough. The hollows were filled with snow, which, being partly thawed, furnished an uncertain footing for the horses, and I could not but join in the ringing laughter of our Frenchmen, as occasionally Brunet and Souris, the two ponies, would flounder, almost imbedded, through the yielding mass. It was about the middle of the afternoon when we reached the ‘Blue Mound.’ I rejoiced much to have got so far, for I was sadly fatigued, and every mile now seemed two to me. It was my first journey on horseback, and I had not yet become inured to the exercise. When we reached Morrison's I was so much exhausted that, as my husband attempted to lift me from the saddle, I fell into his arms.
‘This will never do,’
said he. ‘To-morrow we must turn our faces toward Fort Winnebago again.’
The door opened hospitably to receive us. We were welcomed by a lady with a most sweet, benignant countenance, and by her companion, some years younger. The first was Mrs. Morrison—the other, Miss Elizabeth Dodge, daughter of Gen. Dodge.
My husband laid me upon a small bed, in the room where the ladies had been sitting at work They took off my bonnet and riding-dress, chafed my hands, and prepared me some warm wine and water, by which I was soon revived. A half hour's repose so refreshed me that I was able to converse with the ladies, and to relieve my husband's mind of all anxiety on my account. Tea was announced soon after, and we repaired to an adjoining building, for
Morrison's
, like the establishment of all settlers of that period, consisted of a group of detached log-houses or
cabins
, each containing one or at most two apartments.
The table groaned with good cheer, and brought to mind some that I had seen among the old-fashioned Dutch residents on the banks of the Hudson.
I had recovered my spirits, and we were quite a cheerful party. Mrs. Morrison told us that during the first eighteen months she passed in this country, she did not speak with a white woman, the only society she had being that of her husband and two black servant women.
The next morning, after a cheerful breakfast, at which we were joined by the Rev. Mr. Kent, of Galena, we prepared for our journey. I had reconciled my husband to continuing our route toward Chicago, by assuring him that I felt as fresh and bright as when I first set out from home.
We had not proceeded many miles on our journey, however, before we discovered that Monsieur Plante was profoundly ignorant of the country, so that Mr. Kinzie was obliged to take the lead himself, and make his way as he was best able, according to the directions he had received. We traveled the live-long day barely making a halt at noon to bait our horses, and refresh ourselves with a luncheon. The ride was as gloomy and desolate as could well be imagined. A rolling prairie, unvaried by forest or stream—hillock rising after hillock, at every ascent of which we vainly hoped to see a distant fringe of
‘timber.
’ But the same cheerless, unbounded prospect everywhere met the eye, diversified only here and there by the oblong openings, like gigantic graves, which marked an unsuccessful search for indications of a lead mine.
Just before sunset we crossed, with considerable difficulty, a muddy stream, which was bordered by a scanty belt of trees, making a tolerable encamping-ground; and of this we gladly availed ourselves, although we knew not whether it was near or remote from the place we were in search of.
We had ridden at least fifty miles since leaving ‘Morrison's,’ yet I was sensible of very little fatigue; but there was a vague feeling of discomfort at the idea of
The exertions of the men soon made our ‘camp’ comfortable, notwithstanding the difficulty of driving the tent-pins into the frozen ground, and the want of trees sufficiently large to make a rousing fire. The wind, which at bed-time was sufficiently high to be uncomfortable, increased during the night. It snowed heavily and we were every moment in dread that the tent would be carried away; but the matter was settled in the midst by the snapping of the poles, and the falling of the whole, with its superincumbent weight of snow, in a mass upon us.
The next morning the horses were once more saddled for our journey. The prospect was not an encouraging one. Around us was an unbroken sheet of snow. We had no compass, and the air was so obscured by the driving sleet, that it was often impossible to tell in what direction the sun was. I tied my husband's silk pocket handkerchief over my veil, to protect my face from the wind and icy particles with which the air was filled, and which cut like a razor; but although shielded in every way that circumstances rendered possible, I suffered intensely from the cold. We pursued our way, mile after mile, entering every point of woods, in hopes of meeting with, at least, some Indian wigwam, at which we could gain intelligence. Every spot was solitary and deserted, not even the trace of a recent fire, to cheer us with the hope of human beings within miles of us. Suddenly, a shout from the foremost of the party made each heart bound with joy.
‘Une cloture! une cloture!
’—(a fence, a fence.)
It was almost like life to the dead. We spurred on, and indeed perceived a few straggling rails crowning a rising ground at no great distance. Never did music sound so sweet as the crowing of a cock which at this moment saluted our ears. Following the course of the inclosure down the opposite slope, we came upon a group of log-cabins, low, shabby, and unpromising in their appearance, but a most welcome shelter from the pelting storm. ‘Whose cabins are these?’ asked Mr. Kinzie of a man who was cutting wood at the door of one. ‘Hamilton's,’ was the reply; and he stepped forward at once to assist us to alight, hospitality being a matter of course in these wild regions.
We were shown into the most comfortable looking of the buildings. A large fire was burning in the clay chimney, and the room was of a genial warmth, not withstanding the apertures, many inches in width, beside the doors and windows. A woman in a tidy calico dress, and shabby black silk cap, trimmed with still shabbier lace, rose from her seat beside a sort of
bread-trough
, which fulfilled the office of
cradle
to a fine, fat baby.
Before dinner Mr. Hamilton came in and was introduced to me, and was as agreeable and polite as the son of Alexander Hamilton would naturally be. The housekeeper, who was the wife of one of the miners, prepared us a plain comfortable dinner. The blowing of a horn was the signal for the entrance of ten or twelve miners, who took their places below us at the table. They were the roughest looking set of men I ever beheld, and their language was as uncouth as their persons. They wore hunting shirts, trowsers, and moccasins of deerskin, the former being ornamented at the seams with a fringe of the same, while a colored belt around the waist, in which was stuck a large hunting-knife, gave each the appearance of a brigand.
Mr. Hamilton passed most of the afternoon with us, for the storm raged so without that to proceed on our journey was out of the question. He gave us many pleasant anecdotes and reminiscences of his early life in New York, and of his adventures since he had come to the western wilderness. When obliged to leave us for a while, he furnished us with some books to entertain us, the most interesting of which was the biography of his father.
The next day's sun rose clear and bright. Refreshed and invigorated, we looked forward with pleasure to a recommencement of our journey, confident of meeting no more mishaps by the way. Mr. Hamilton kindly offered to accompany us to his next neighbor's, the trifling distance of twenty-five miles. The miner who owned the wife and baby, and who, consequently, was somewhat more humanized than his comrades, in taking leave of us ‘wished us well out of the country, and that we might never have occasion to return to it! I pity a body,’ said he, ‘when Inever touched
this western country.’
There was no halting upon the route, and as we kept the same pace until three o'clock in the afternoon, it was beyond a question that when we reached ‘Kellogg's,’ we had traveled at least thirty miles. ‘Kellogg's’ was a comfortable mansion, just within the verge of a pleasant ‘grove of timber,’ as a small forest is called by western travelers. We found Mrs. Kellogg a very respectable looking matron, who soon informed us she was from the city of New York. She appeared proud and delighted to entertain Mr. Hamilton, for whose family, she took occasion to tell us, she had, in former days, been in the habit of doing needle-work. We had intended to go to Dixon's the same afternoon, but the snow beginning again to fall, obliged us to content ourselves where we were. In the meantime, finding we were journeying to Chicago, Mr. Kellogg came to the determination to accompany us, having, as he said some business to accomplish at that place.
No great time was required for Mr. Kellogg's preparations. He would take, he said, only two days’ provisions, for at his brother-in-law Dixon's we should get our supper and breakfast, and the route from there to Chicago could, he well knew, be accomplished in a day and a half. Although, according to this calculation, we had sufficient remaining of our stores to carry us to the end of our journey, yet Mr. Kinzie took the precaution of begging Mrs. Kellogg to bake us another bag of biscuits, in case of accidents, and he likewise suggested to Mr. K. the prudence of furnishing himself with something more than his limited allowance; but the good man objected that he was unwilling to burden his horse more than was absolutely necessary. It will be seen that we had reason to rejoice in our own foresight.
It was late on the following day, when we took leave of our kind hostess. We journeyed pleasantly along through a country, beautiful in spite of its wintry appearance. Just at sunset, we reached the dark, rapid waters of the Rock River. All being safely got across, a short walk brought us to the house of Mr. Dixon. We were ushered into Mrs. Dixon's sitting-room; and seated by a glowing fire, while Mrs. Dixon busied herself in preparing us a nice supper, I felt that the comfort overbalanced the inconvenience of such a journey.
A most savory supper of ducks and venison, with their accompaniments, soon smoked upon the board, and we did ample justice to it. Traveling is a great sharpener of the appetite, and so is cheerfulness, and the latter was increased by the encouraging account Mr. Dixon gave us of the remainder of the route yet before us. ‘There is no difficulty,’ said he, ‘if you keep a little to the north, and strike the great
Sauk trail.
If you get too far to the south, you will come upon the Winnebago Swamp, and once in that, there is no telling when you will ever get out again. As for the distance, it is nothing, at all to speak of.’
The following morning, which was a bright and lovely one for that season of the year, we took leave of Mr. and Mrs. Dixon, in high spirits. We traveled for the first few miles along the beautiful, undulating banks of Rock River, always in an easterly direction, keeping the beaten path, or rather road, which led to Fort Clark or Peoria. The Sauk trail, we had been told, would cross this road, at the distance of about six miles. After having traveled, as we judged, fully that distance, we came upon a trail, bearing north-east, which we followed till it brought us to the great bend of the river with its bold rocky bluffs, when, convinced of our mistake, we struck off from the trail, in a direction as nearly east as possible. The weather had changed and become intensely cold, and we felt that the detention we had met with, even should we now be in the right road, was no trifling matter. But we were buoyed up by the hope that we were in the right path at last, and we journeyed on until night, when we reached a comfortable ‘encampment,’ in the edge of a grove near a small stream.
We were roused at peep of day to make preparations for starting. We must find the Sauk trail this day at all hazards. What would become of us should we fail to do so? It was a question no one liked to ask, and certainly one that none could have answered. On leaving our encampment, we found ourselves entering a marshy tract of country. Myriads of wild geese, brant, and ducks rose up screaming at our approach. The more distant lakes and ponds were black with them, but the shallow water through which we attempted to make our way was
This swampy region at length passed, we came upon more solid ground, chiefly the open prairie. But now a new trouble assailed us. The weather had moderated, and a blinding snow storm came on. Without a trail that we could rely upon, and destitute of a compass, our only dependence had been the sun to point out our direction, but the atmosphere was now so obscure that it was impossible to tell in what quarter of the heavens he was. We pursued our way, however, and a devious one it must have been. After traveling in this way many miles, we came upon an Indian trail, deeply indented, running at right angles with the course we were pursuing. The snow had ceased, and the clouds becoming thinner, we were able to observe the direction of the sun, and to perceive that the trail ran north and south. What should we do? Was it safest to pursue our easterly course, or was it probable that by following this new path we should fall into the direct one we had been so long seeking? If we decided to take the trail, should we go north or south? Mr. Kinzie was for the latter. He was of opinion that we were still too far north. Finding himself in the minority, my husband yielded, and we turned our horses' heads north, much against his will. After proceeding a few miles, however, he took a sudden determination. ‘You may go north, if you please,’ said he, ‘but I am convinced that the other course is right, and I shall face about—follow who will.’ So we wheeled round and rode south again, and many a long and weary mile did we travel. The road, which had continued many miles through the prairie, at length, in winding round a point of woods, brought us suddenly upon an Indian village. A shout of joy broke from the whole party, but no answering shout was returned—not even a bark of friendly welcome—as we galloped up to the wigwams. All was silent as the grave. We rode round and round, then dismounted and looked into several of the spacious huts. They had evidently been long deserted.
Our disappointment may be better imagined than described. With heavy hearts we mounted and once more pursued our way, the snow again falling and adding to the discomforts of our position. At length we halted for the night. We had long been aware that our stock of provisions was insufficient for another day, and here we were—nobody knew where—in the midst of woods and prairies—certainly far from any human habitation, with barely enough food for a slender evening's meal.
The poor dogs came whining around us to beg their usual portion, but they were obliged to content themselves With a bare bone, and we retired to rest with the feeling that if not actually hungry then, we should certainly be so to-morrow.
The morrow came. Plante and Roy had a bright fire and a nice pot of coffee for us. It was our only breakfast, for on shaking the bag and turning it inside out. we could make no more of our stock of bread than three crackers, which the rest of the party insisted I should put in my pocket for my dinner. We still had the trail to guide us, and we continued to follow it until about nine o'clock, when, in emerging from a wood, we came upon a broad and rapid river. A collection of Indian wigwams stood upon the opposite bank, and as the trail led directly to the water, it was fair to infer that the stream was fordable. We had no opportunity of testing it, however, for the banks were so lined with ice, which was piled up tier upon tier by the breaking-up of the previous week, that we tried in vain to find a path by which we could descend the bank to the water. The men shouted again and again in hopes some straggling inhabitant of the village might be at hand with his canoe. No answer was returned save by the echoes. What was to be done? I looked at my husband and saw that care was on his brow, although he still continued to speak cheerfully. ‘We will follow this cross-trail down the bank of the river,’ said he. ‘There must be Indians wintering near in some of these points of wood.’ I must confess that I felt somewhat dismayed at our prospects, but I kept up a show of courage, and did not allow my despondency to be seen. All the party were dull and gloomy enough.
We kept along the bank, which was considerably elevated above the water, and bordered at a little distance with a thick wood. All at once my horse, who was mortally
They appeared greatly relieved when Mr. Kinzie addressed them in the Pottowatomie language.
The squaw, in answer to Mr. K.'s inquiries, assured him that Chicago was ‘close by.’
‘That means,’ said he, ‘that it is not so far off as Canada. We must not be too sanguine.’
The men sat about unpacking the horses, and I in the meantime was paddled across the river. The old woman immediately returned, leaving the younger one with me for company. I seated myself on the fallen trunk of a tree, in the midst of the snow, and looked across the dark waters. I am not ashamed to confess my weakness—for the first time on my journey I shed tears. The poor little squaw. looked into my face with a wondering and sympathizing expression.
‘What would my friends at the east think,’ said I to myself, ‘if they could see me now? What would poor old Mrs. Welsh say? She who warned me that
if I came away so far to the west, I should break my heart?
Would she not rejoice to find how likely her prediction was to be fulfilled?’
These thoughts roused me. I dried up my tears, and by the time my husband with his party, and all his horses and luggage, were across, I had recovered my cheerfulness, and was ready for fresh adventures.
We followed the old squaw to her lodge, which was at no great distance in the woods. The master of the lodge, who had gone out to shoot ducks, soon returned. He was a tall, finely formed man, with a cheerful, open countenance, and he listened to what his wife in a quiet tone related to him, while he divested himself of his accoutrements in the most unembarrassed, well-bred manner imaginable. Soon my husband joined us. He had been engaged in attending to the comfort of his horses, and assisting his men in making their fire, and pitching their tent, which the rising storm made a matter of some difficulty. From the Indian he learned that we were in what was called ‘the Big Woods,’ or ‘Piche's Grove,’Piche's
, from which the road was perfectly plain, or even into Chicago if we preferred—but that we had better remain encamped for that day, as there was a storm coming on, and in the mean time he would go and shoot some ducks for our dinner and supper. He was accordingly furnished with powder and shot, and set off again for game without delay.
* Probably at what is now Oswego. The name of a portion of the wood is since corrupted into
Specie's Grove.
The tent being all in order, my husband came for me, and we took leave of our friends in the wigwam with grateful hearts. The storm was raging without. The trees were bending and cracking around us, and the air was completely filled with the wild-fowl screaming and
quacking
as they made their way southward before the blast. Our tent was among the trees not far from the river. My husband took me to the bank to look for a moment at what we had escaped. The wind was sweeping down from the north in a perfect hurricane. The water was filled with masses of snow and ice, dancing along upon the torrent, over which were hurrying thousands of wild-fowl, making the woods resound to their deafening clamor. Had we been one hour later, we could not possibly have crossed the stream, and there seems to have been nothing for us but to have remained and starved in the wilderness. Could we be sufficiently grateful to that kind Providence that had brought us safely through such dangers?
The storm raged with tenfold violence during the night. We were continually
Our Indian guide had joined us at an early hour, and after conducting us carefully out of the wood, about nine o'clock brought us to
Piche's
, a log-cabin on a rising ground, looking off over the broad prairie to the east. We had hoped to get some refreshment here, Piche being an old acquaintance of some of the party; but alas! the master was from home. We found his cabin occupied by Indians and travelers—the latter few, the former numerous.
There was no temptation to a halt, except that of warming ourselves at a bright fire that was burning in the clay chimney. A man in Quaker costume stepped forward to answer our inquiries, and offered to become our escort to Chicago, to which place he was bound—so we dismissed our Indian friend, with a satisfactory remuneration for all the trouble he had so kindly taken for us.
The weather was intensely cold. The wind, sweeping over the wide prairie, with nothing to break its force, chilled our very hearts. I beat my feet against the saddle to restore the circulation, when they became benumbed with cold, until they became so bruised I could beat them no longer. Not a house or wigwam, not even a clump of trees as a shelter, offered itself for many a weary mile. At length we reached the west fork of the Da Page. It was frozen, but not sufficiently so to bear the horses. Our only resource was to cut a way for them through the ice. It was a work of time, for the ice had frozen to several inches in thickness, during the last bitter night. Plante went first with an axe, and cut as far as lie could reach, then mounted one of the hardy little ponies, and with some difficulty broke the ice before him, until he had opened a passage to the opposite shore.
How the poor animals shivered as they were reined in among the floating ice! And we, who sat waiting in the piercing wind, were not much better. We were all across at last, and spurred on our horses, until we reached Hawley's
* It was near this spot that the brother of Mr. Hawley, a Methodist preacher, was killed by the Sauks, in 1832, after having been tortured by them with the most wanton barbarity.
The good woman welcomed us kindly, and soon made us warm and comfortable. We felt as if we were in a civilized land once more. We found, upon inquiry, that we could, by pushing on, reach Lawton's, on the Aux Plaines, that night—we should then be within twelve miles of Chicago. Of course we made no unnecessary delay, but set off as soon after dinner as possible. The crossing of the east fork of the Du Page was more perilous than the former one had been.
It was almost dark when we reached Lawton's. The Aux PlainesChicago le Desire
, as I could not but name it.
† Riviere Aux Plaines was the original French designation, now changed to
Desplaines, pronounced as in English.
Soon the distance was traversed, and we were in the arms of our dear, kind friends. A messenger was dispatched to ‘the garrison’ for the remaining members of the family, and for that day at least, I was the wonder and admiration of the whole circle, ‘for the dangers I had seen.’”
76
North of Milwaukie, on the shores of Lake Michigan, are several thriving city-like towns, containing each several thousand inhabitants. They are
Ozankee, Sheboygan, Manitowoc, and Two Rivers.
City of Superior
is at the head of Lake Superior, on the Bay of Superio: and Nemadji River. It was laid out in 1854, by a company of gentlemen who judged from its site that it must eventually be a large city. It has a splendid harbor, six miles long and one broad, admirably sheltered from storms and capable of containing the shipping of the entire chain of lakes. In three years, its population had increased to 1,500 souls, and many buildings had been constructed.
La Pointe
, one of the oldest towns in the north-west, was first occupied by the French Jesuits and traders, in 1680. It is on Madeline Island of Lake Superior, which is separated from the mainland by a narrow channel It has an air of antiquity, in its ruined port, dilapidated pickets, that formerly inclosed the place, and the old Fur Company's buildings, some of which are still standing. Here was the scene of the labors of Fathers Claude Allouez and Jean Marquette, and of an Indian battle between the warlike Daeotahs and Algonquins, in which the chapel of the Holy Spirit, erected by these devoted missionaries, was destroyed. Near it, on the mainland, is the newly laid out town of
Bayfield.
Arms of Minnesota.
Motto
—
Minnesota
derives its name from the Minnesota River. The water of this river is clear, but has a blueish hue, owing to the peculiar colored clay of it bed. The name, Minnesota, indicates this peculiarity, and signifies “sky-tinted water.” In 1679, Father Hennepin, a Dutch Franciscan friar, and two others, of La Salle's expedition, accompanied the Indians to their villages, 180 miles above the Falls of St. Anthony. “He was the first European who ascended the Mississippi above the mouth of the Wisconsin; the first to name and describe the Falls of St. Anthony; the first to present an engraving of the Falls of Niagara to the literary world.
* From “The History of Minnesota, from the Earliest French Exploration to the Present Time; by Edward Duffield Neill, Secretary of the Minnesota Historical Society. Philadelphia, T. B. Lippincott & Co., 1858.”
The first white man who visited the soil of Minnesota was a Frenchman, Daniel Greysolon du Luth, who in 1678 left Quebec to explore the country of the Assineboines. On the 2d of July, of the next year, he planted the king's arms in Kathio, the great village of the Dakotahs, and, in the succeeding September, convened a council of the Indian nations at the head of Lake Superior. He built a fort, a trading post at the mouth of Pigeon River, and advanced as far as Mille Lac. In June, 1680, leaving his post, he met Hennepin among the Dakotahs, and descended the Mississippi with him. Before the termination of that century, other Frenchmen also visited Minnesota.
In 1689, Perrot, accompanied by Le Sueur, Father Marest, and others, took formal possession of Minnesota, in the name of the French king. They also built a fort on the west shore of Lake Pepin, just above its entrance—the
At this period, Le Sueur discovered, as he supposed, a copper mine on Blue Earth River, a tributary of the Minnesota. He returned in 1700, built a fort on the Minnesota, remained during the winter, and in the spring descended the Mississippi, with one hundred tuns of blue and green earth destined for France: but it is not known that he ever returned.
Within the next 60 years, Minnesota was visited by the French fur traders. In 1763, Capt. Jonathan Carver, a native of Connecticut, visited the country, and subsequently published his travels in England, in which he first called the attention of the civilized world to the existence of the ancient monuments in the Mississippi valley, which he discovered in the vicinity of Lake Pepin, and described. He also described a cave near St. Paul, which bears his name to this day. He designed to have returned to the country, with which he was greatly delighted: but the American Revolution intervening prevented.
“After the French came the British fur traders. The British North-west Fur Company occupied trading posts at Sandy Lake, Leech Lake, and other central points within the limits of Minnesota. That at Sandy Lake was built in 1794, the year of Wayne's victory. It was a large stockade, and contained two rows of buildings used as dwellings, provision store, and workshops. Fort William, on the north side of Lake Superior, eventually became their principal depot. This fort was on so large a scale as to accommodate forty partners, with their clerks and families. About these posts were many half-breeds, whose members were constantly increasing by the intermarriages of the French traders with the Indian women. Their goods, consisting principally of blankets, cutlery, printed calicoes, ribbons, glass beads, and other trinkets, were forwarded to the posts from Montreal, in packages of about 90 pounds each, and exchanged in winter for furs, which in the summer were conveyed to Montreal in canoes, carrying each about 65 packages and 10 men. The Mackinaw Company, also English merchants, had their headquarters at Mackinaw, while their trading posts were over a thousand miles distant, on the head waters of the Mississippi. Between the North-west and the Hudson's Bay Company a powerful rivalry existed. The boundaries of the latter not being established, desperate collisions often took place, and the posts of each were frequently attacked. When Lieut. Pike ascended the upper Mississippi in 1805, he found the fur trade in the exclusive possession of the North-west Company, which was composed wholly of foreigners. Although the lake posts were surrendered to our government in 1796, American authority was not felt in that quarter until after the war of 1812, owing to the influence the English exercised over the Indians. It was from fear of American rivalry that the British fur traders instigated the Indians to border wars against the early settlements. In 1816, congress passed a law excluding foreigners from the Indian trade.”
In 1800, when the Territory of Indiana was organized, that part of Minnesota east of the Mississippi was included within it; and in 1803, when Louisiana was purchased, that part of Minnesota west of the Mississippi for the first time became United States territory. The first American officer who visited Minnesota on public business, was Zebulon Montgomery Pike, a native of New Jersey, then a young lieutenant in the army. His errand was to explore the country, form alliances with the Indians, and expel the British traders found violating the laws of the United States. He was well treated by them; but as soon as he had departed, they disregarded the regulations he had established. Pike purchased the site of Fort Snelling, where, in 1819, barracks were erected, and a garrison stationed by the United States, which was the first American establishment in the country. Further explorations were made in 1820, by Gov. Cass; in 1823, by Major Long, and in 1832, by Henry R. Schoolcraft, the last of whom discovered the source of the Mississippi.
From 1836 to 1839, M. Nicollet (under whom was John C. Fremont), was engaged in making geographical surveys in this region, and ten years later, a scientific corps under Dr. Dale Owen, by their explorations, revealed much additional information respecting the topography and geology of this northern country: as also have the published journals of Stansbury, Pope and Marcy, officers of the U. S. corps of topographical engineers. All these surveys and explorations were by order of government.
The first settlers in Minnesota, aside from the missionaries, fur traders, and military, were a few Swiss emigrants from Pembina, the colony of Lord Selkirk, in the valley of the Red River, upward of 600 miles north of Fort Snelling. In the years of 1837 and 1838,
Previous to the organization of Wisconsin as a state, that part of Minnesota east of the Mississippi was included within it, and that part west in the Territory of Iowa.
“On the 3d of March, 1849, a bill was passed organizing the Territory of Minnesota, whose boundary on the west extended to the Missouri River. At the time of the passage of the bill, organizing the Territory of Minnesota, the region was little more than a wilderness. The west bank of the Mississippi, from the Iowa line to Lake Itasca, was unceded by the Indians.
At Wapashaw was a trading post in charge of Alexis Bailly, and here also resided the ancient voyageur, of fourscore years, A. Rocque. At the foot of Lake Pepin was a storehouse kept by Mr. F. S. Richards. On the west shore of the lake lived the eccentric Wells, whose wife was a bois brule—a daughter of the deceased trader, Duncan Graham. The two unfinished buildings of stone, on the beautiful bank opposite the renowned Maiden's Rock, and the surrounding skin lodges of his wife's relatives and friends, presented a rude but picturesque scene. Above the lake was a cluster of bark wigwams, the Dakotah village of Raymneecha, now Red Wing, at which was a Presbyterian mission house. The next settlement was Kaposia, also an Indian village, and the residence of a Presbyterian missionary, the Rev. T. S. Williamson, M.D.
On the east side of the Mississippi, the first settlement, at the mouth of the St. Croix, was Point Douglas, then, as now, a small hamlet. At Red Rock, the site of a former Methodist mission station, there were a few farmers. St. Paul was just emerging from a collection of Indian whisky shops, and birch-roofed cabins of half-breed voyageurs. Here and there a frame tenement was erected; and, under the auspices of the Hon. H. M. Rice, who had obtained an interest in the town, some warehouses were being constructed, and the foundations of the American House were laid. In 1849, the population had increased to two hundred and fifty or three hundred inhabitants, for rumors had gone abroad that it might be mentioned in the act, creating the territory, as the capital.”
The officers appointed by President Taylor for the territory were, Alex. Ramsay, of Pa., governor; C. K. Smith, of Ohio, secretary; A. Goodrich, of Tenn., chief justice; B. B. Meeker, of Ky., and David Cooper, of Pa., associate judges; H. L. Moss, U. S. district attorney; and A. M. Mitchell, of Ohio, marshal. The governor and other officers soon after arrived at St. Paul, and on the 1st of June the territorial government was organized. Henry H. Sibley, of Mich., was shortly after elected the first delegate to congress. The territorial legislature met on the 3d of September, and elected David Olmsted president of the council, and Joseph W. Furber as speaker of the house. The next day they assembled in the dining room of the town hotel, and, after a prayer by Rev. E. D. Neill, the governor delivered his message. One of the first acts of the body was to incorporate “the Historical Society of Minnesota.” The total population of the territory, on the 11th of June, 1849, was 4,049.
On the 33d of Feb., 1856, the U. S. senate authorized the people of Minnesota to form a state constitution, preparatory to admission into the Union. This was effected in the succeeding October, and on the 7th of April, 1858, the senate passed the bill admitting Minnesota into the Union. Henry M. Rice and James Shields were the first representatives of the new state in the national senate. In a census taken in 1857, preliminary to admission, the population was ascertained to be 150,037.
Like all new states, Minnesota has been injured by the spirit of speculation in land, especially in town sites. Prior to the commercial revulsion of 1857, it was estimated that 868 town sites had been recorded, enough to accommodate a town population of over two million.
Minnesota extends from latitude 43° 30′ to 48°, and in longitude from 80° 29′ to 91° 12′: it is bounded on the E. by Lake Superior and Wisconsin;
Minnesota occupies the elevated plateau of North America. At the “highth of land,” or
Hauteurs des Terres
, in the northern part of the state, lat. 47 deg. 7 min. and long. 95 deg., “are the sources of the three great river systems of the continent. The slopes of the adjacent valleys, meeting upon this central ridge, give to the surface of Minnesota, with the general aspect of an undulating plain, the shape of a pyramidal roof, down whose opposite sides the waters descend to their ocean outlets.” Two thirds of this surface feeds the Mississippi with its waters, which thus find their way to the Gulf of Mexico, while the remainder of the surface contributes in about equal proportions to the Red River of the North, flowing into Hudson's Bay, and to Lake Superior, whose final outlet to the ocean is through the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The Highth of Land is about 1,500 feet above the Gulf of Mexico, and is the only hilly region, excepting the trap summits north of Lake Superior.
The majestic Mississippi takes its rise among the hills of Lake Itasca, and flows for 797 miles through the state. The Minnesota, 470 miles long, empties into the Mississippi five miles above St. Paul, and is now navigable for steamers for 238 miles, to the mouth of the Yellow Medicine. The Red River has a length of 379 miles, to the British line. The St. Croix River, so valuable for its pineries, is navigable for 52 miles. Lake Superior washes 167 miles of the border of the state, and the St. Louis River, at its extreme west end, is navigable 21 miles.
Hon. B. B. Meeker, a ten years' resident in Minnesota, writing in 1860, gives a description of its climate, soil and general resources, which we copy in an abridged form;
The climate of Minnesota is already proverbially good. Its complete exemption from all those diseases and maladies local to most new countries, and so justly a terror to all new comers, is conceded by all who have tested it by actual residence. There is hardly a town, or city, or neighborhood in the state, that is not able to bear testimony to more than one complete restoration from chronic disease of the lungs or some of the varied types of consumption assumed by that most subtile of all the agents of the fell destroyer.
Perhaps no locality on our continent has less of fever and ague. Indeed, if there be any cases of this kind, their origin is readily traced to some other states or territories, and but a short residence is necessary to eradicate it entirely. Hundreds and hundreds of families are annually driven from other western states to take up their residence in Minnesota, to escape this offensive and troublesome foe to the emigrant and his family. This is not only true of one, but of every portion of the state; and what is very remarkable, it is just as healthy around the lake shores and along the valleys of our water courses, as upon the prairies and table lands of the interior. In no part of America are the seasons better defined or more emphatically marked.
We will commence with the spring, This season usually begins about the middle of March, when the snow begins to melt and disappear suddenly. April is fickle and fluctuating —May tranquil, warm, and genial. The latter part of April the farmers plant potatoes and sow their spring wheat. About the first of May they sow their oats, and about the tenth plant their corn. After the first of May frosts rarely ever appear, certainly not to the same extent they do in states further south and east. This is avery remarkable fact, and is demonstrated yearly. I was informed by an aged missionary, in the spring of 1849, that he had lived in the country then sixteen years, and that he had observed the appearance of frost averaged two weeks earlier in northern Illinois than in Minnesota. Why this difference in favor of a more northern state, is an interesting problem for philosophers and geologists, with whom I leave the solution—the
fact
, however, is incontestable.
Summer in this state is indeed hot, sometimes even overpowering; but always succeeded by cool, breezy, delicious nights. Sleep here is repose indeed, and not exhaustion, as in more southern states. In no part of the world do crops grow more rapidly than in Minnesota, owing chiefly to two causes, the intense heat of summer days and the warm nature of the soil. This peculiarity of the soil and climate explains the hurried and swift maturity of the various species of corn, that many who have not witnessed the fact, believe can not ripen with any degree of certainty north of Ohio or Illinois. This quick action of the sun and soil on vegetation and grain, is necessarily a spur to the farmer, who is hurried from one department of his labor to another without much time for rest or relaxation. At first he will be apt to conclude that the planting of corn is too close on the sowing of wheat, oats, and barley; and the weeding of the former too near the harvesting of the latter. But
The autumns of Minnesota are bright, clear, and dry—well adapted to the cutting and curing of hay, and the in-gathering of the crops. It is also the best season for sport, hunting, fishing, and driving. No state in the Union has better natural roads and thorough-fares, and at this season you can safely drive a carriage to the Red River—thence down that rich valley of land to the British interior—or westward to the Rocky Mountains, or southerly to Iowa or Missouri. A good team road you can find at this season in almost any direction, and perfect health by the way.
The winter here is cold, dry, and severe. Snow falls for sleighing generally about the twentieth of November, and from that time to Christmas. After that but little snow falls, and it is uniform winter till spring comes, when it makes its exit rather unceremoniously. But let no one suppose that winter here is cheerless and void of social interest. In no part of the country are there more social appliances and social pleasures than in Minnesota. Lyceums, lecture-rooms, social and dancing parties, sleighing excursions by day and by moonlight, are common sources of pleasure from the capitol to the country hamlet. This, too, is the season for harvesting the pine forest—an employment half business and half pleasure—a crop gathered in the winter and manufactured and sold in the spring and summer.
Minnesota, like all the other states, has more or less of poor or indifferent soil; at the same time few states in the Union have more productive or remunerating lands than Minnesota, and these are admirably distributed so as ultimately to equalize the population through the several important districts marked by the physical geography of the country. The great natural subdivisions of the state are:
I. The Lake Superior region or the region extending some sixty miles around the head of the great lake that bears that name. This district is for the most part woodland. Most of the soil is thin, low, and wet, with here and there a fertile locality of hard wood, as ash, sugar maple, and elm, having a clay or hard-pan subsoil. But little of this region is at present settled, and it is generally unknown to the emigrating public, as no road has yet been completed—from Superior City to the Mississippi—a distance of eighty miles only. It is to be regretted, and the government is to be blamed, that it has never constructed this road either for military or postal purposes, as well as for calling into requisition and settlement a largo tract of the public domain, thus uniting, by a comparatively small expense, the two great valleys of the continent, the Lake and Mississippi. It would be essentially a national highway, and would speedily force into settlement all the cultivable lands between the two mighty waters. This, too, is the mineral, the copper and iron district of Minnesota—the
II. In the north-west of the state, heads the great valley or basin of the Red River of the North. This is almost a distinct region of country, and has many peculiarities in soil and population. The valley proper, is about thirty miles in width, being timbered and prairie and of the very richest soil, composed of a deep black loam, resting upon a clayey foundation. This is a vast luxuriant grass region—the ancient paradise of the buffalo herds —from which they have just been driven by the vanguard and outpost of our progressive population. This great valley is admirably adapted to the cultivation of hemp, barley, maize, wheat, oats, and potatoes. III. The Upper Mississippi. By this I mean so much of the valley of the Upper Mississippi as lies north of the Falls of St. Anthony. On the east side or left hand of this river, from its source to the falls, the soil is generally inferior, and yet there are many portions of it are good and yield well. On the west side, however, the soil is not only good but generally excellent. The Sauk River valley, the Crow River valley and its branches, are not surpassed in fertility and productiveness in any western state. This region is not only well settled but populous, and is very productive in wheat, rye, oats, corn, and potatoes, which are shipped in large quantities from the falls to St. Louis, the most accessible and best market. IV. The St. Peter's or Minnesota valley. This is an immense district of agricultural and grazing lands, stretching south-westerly first, and then north-westerly, embracing a tract of some five hundred miles, fertile in corn, wheat, barley, oats, and potatoes, all of which are easily and cheaply floated to the Mississippi, thence south to the best market. V. Lower Minnesota, or all that country lying west of the Mississippi and south of the St. Peter's or Minnesota River, including the very rich and fertile country drained by the Blue Earth. This whole country is well settled, and very fertile in corn and wheat.
only region in America where copper is found in
massive purity. When the slumbering wealth of this region shall be appreciated, and capital and operatives shall have found a lodgment in this portion of Minnesota, agriculture in this vicinity will find an inexhaustible market and a rich reward at the head of the lake.
The crops that do best in Minnesota are wheat, rye, barley, oats, potatoes, and corn— the latter not always a certain crop. The average yield of wheat this year is supposed to be twenty-five bushels to the acre, the largest average of any state of the Union.
There is no mineral coal in Minnesota, but the country is otherwise well supplied with fuel and means for manufacturing. For a prairie state, it is by far the best wooded and
St. Paul.
The more intense periods of cold in the winter of Minnesota, are shorn of their severity, by the absence of winds and the peculiar dryness of the atmosphere, which imparts an elasticity and buoyancy to the spirits. It has been ascertained by theometrical observations, continued for many years at Fort Snelling, that its spring temperature is identical with that of Massachusetts; its summer with that of northern Ohio; its autumn with that of northern Vermont, and its winter is like that of Montreal. The population of Minnesota, in 1850, was 6,075, and in 1860, 176,535: and farms under cultivation, 19,075.
St. Paul,
the capital of Minnesota, derives its name from the Catholic church which had been organized there six years previous to the laying out of the town. St. Paul stands on the left or east bank of the Mississippi; but at this particular point the course of the river is from south-west to north-east: the town is 8 miles below the Falls of St. Anthony, and 5 below Fort Snelling and the mouth of the Minnesota: distance, by the Mississippi, above New Orleans, 1,900 miles; above the mouth of the Ohio, 860; above St. Louis, 688; above Galena, 280; above La Crosse, 114; and about 400
The first settlers at St. Paul were the Swiss, originally from Pembina, Lord Selkirk's colony, on the Red River of the North. In the spring of 1825, the colonists there were driven from their homes by a terrible freshet in the river, consequent upon the melting of the snows. “After the flood, they could no longer remain in the land of their adversity, and they became the pioneers in emigration and agriculture in the state of Minnesota. At one time a party of 243 departed for the United States, who found homes at different points on the banks of the Mississippi. Before the eastern wave of emigration had ascended beyond Prairie du Chien, the Swiss had opened farms on and near St. Paul, and should be recognized as the first actual settlers in the country.” They first located on the land on the east side of the Mississippi, between St. Paul and Fort Shelling, and commenced improvements. In March, 1838, the commander at the fort selected this land as a part of a military reservation. It was, therefore, withheld from sale. The settlers, who were principally the Swiss, were ordered to be removed by the war department. On the 6th and 7th of May, 1840, the troops from the fort, with undue haste, removed these unfortunate people, and destroyed their cabins: they then removed to the site of St. Paul: among them were Messrs. Massey, Perry, Garvis and Pierrie.
“The year [1838] that the Dakotahs ceded the land east of the Mississippi,” says Neill in his History of Minnesota, “a Canadian Frenchman, by the name of Parant, the ideal of an Indian whisky seller, erected a shanty at what is now the principal steamboat landing in St. Paul. Ignorant and overbearing, he loved money more than his soul. Destitute of one eye, and the other resembling that of a pig, he was a good representative of Caliban.
In the year 1842, some one writing a letter in his groggery, for the want of a more euphonious name, designated the place as ‘Pig's Eye,’ referring to the peculiar appearance of the whisky seller. The reply to the letter was directed in good faith to ‘Pig's Eye,’ and was received in due time.
In 1842, the late Henry Jackson, of Mahkato, settled at the same spot, and erected the first store on the hight just above the lower landing; and shortly after, Roberts and Simpson followed, and opened small Indian trading shops. In the year 1846, the site of St. Paul was chiefly occupied by a few shanties, owned by ‘certain lewd fellows of the baser sort,” who sold rum to the soldier and Indian. It was despised by all decent white men, and known to the Dakotahs by an expression in their tongue, which means, the place where they sell minne-wakan.”
* SupernaturalWater.
St. Paul was laid off as a town into lots in July, 1847, by Ira B. Brunson, of Prairie du Chien, in the employment of residents. “The names of those who were then sole proprietors, barring Uncle Sam's prior lien, were Vetal Guerin, Alex. R. M'Leod, Henry Jackson, Hartshorn & Randall, Louis Roberts, Benj. Gervais, David Farribault, A. L. Lar penteur, J.W. Simpson, and J. Demarrais.” For a year or two the place showed no signs of a promising future, until the Hon. Henry M. Rice bought in, and by his energy and reputation for forecast, “infused new life into the place.” When the territorial bill for the organization of Minnesota was passed, St. Paul, through the exertions of Hon. Henry H. Sibley, was named as the temporary capital. The act was signed on the 3d of March, 1849. Says Neill:
“More than a month after the adjournment of congress, just at eve, on the 9th of April, amid terrific peals of thunder and torrents of rain, the weekly steam packet, the first to force its way through the icy barrier of Lake Pepin, rounded the rocky point, whistling loud and long, as if the bearer of glad tidings. Before she was safely moored to the landing, the shouts of the excited villagers announced that there was a Territory of Minnesota,
Nine days after the news of the existence of the Territory of Minnesota was received there arrived James M. Goodhue with press, types, and printing apparatus. A graduate of Amherst College, and a lawyer by profession, he wielded a sharp pen, and wrote editorials, which, more than anything else, perhaps, induced emigration. Though a man of some glaring faults, one of the counties properly bears his name. On the 28th of April, he issued the first number of the ‘Pioneer.’
On the 27th of May, Alexander Ramsey, the governor, and family arrived at St. Paul but, owing to the crowded state of the public houses, immediately proceeded in the Steamer to the establishment of the fur company known as Mendota, at the junction of the Minnesota, and Mississippi, and became the guest of the Hon. H. H. Sibley.
For several weeks there resided, at the confluence of these rivers, four individuals who, more than any other men, have been identified with the public interests of Minnesota, and given the state its present character. Their names are attached to the thriving counties of Ramsey, Rice, Sibley, and Steele.
‘As unto the bow, the cord is,
So unto the man is the woman,
Though she bends him, she obeys him,
Though she draws him, yet she follows,
Useless each without the other.’”
Fort Snelling
, originally called Fort St. Anthony is noted point in the history of Minnesota. I stands on a lofty bluff, 5 miles: above St. Paul, on the west bank of the Mississippi, at the junction of the Minnesota, and on the north bank of the latter. It is composed of large barracks and numerous edifices surrounded by thick walls Previous to the organization of Minnesota, in 1849, it was the only important point north of Prairie du Chien, and was for years the rendezvous of missionaries, of scientific explorers, and of mercantile adventurers, on their way to the Dakotahs. The scenery at this point, up the valley of the Minnesota, is surpassingly beautiful. The fort was named from Col. Snelling. He was a brave officer of the war of 1812, and particularly distinguished himself at Tippecanoe and Brownstown. He died in 1828.
Fort Snelling
In Feb., 1819, the war department ordered the 5th regiment of infantry to concentrate at Detroit, for the purpose of transportation to the Mississippi, to garrison Prairie du Chien and Rock Island, and to establish a post as the head-quarters of the corps at the mouth of the Minnesota.
Col. Leavenworth ascended the Mississippi with his soldiers in keel boats, and erected temporary barracks above the present village of Mendota, on the south side of the river, where they wintered. Col. Snelling subsequently assumed command of the garrison. On the 10th of September of the next year (1820), the corner stone of Fort Shelling was laid.
The wife of Colonel Snelling, “a few days after her arrival at the post, gave birth to the first infant of white parents in Minnesota, which, after a brief existence of thirteen months, departed to a better land. The dilapidated monument which marks the remains of the ‘little one,’ is still visible in the graveyard of the fort. Beside Mrs. Snelling, the wife of the commissary, and of Captain Gooding, were in the garrison, the first American ladies that ever wintered in Minnesota.”
The
Minne-ha-ha Falls
, the existence of which the genius of Longfellow
“Waterfalls, in the Dakotah tongue, are called
ha-ha.
The '
h
, has a strong guttural sound, and the word is applied because of the
curling
or laughing of the waters. The verb
I-ha-ha
primarily means
to curl;
secondarily
to laugh
, because of the curling motion of the mouth in laughter. The noise of Ha-ha is called by the Dakotahs I-ha-ha, because of its resemblance to laughter. A small rivulet, the outlet of Lake Harriet and Calhoun, gently gliding over the bluff into an amphitheater, forms this graceful waterfall. It has but little of ‘the cataract's thunder.’ Niagara symbolizes the sublime; St Anthony the picturesque; Ha-ha the beautiful. The fall is about sixty feet, presenting a parabolic curve, which drops, without the least deviation, until it has reached its lower level, when the stream goes on its way rejoicing, curling along in laughing, childish glee at the graceful feat it has performed in bounding over the precipice.”
Minne-ha-ha Falls
“Here the Falls of Minne-ha-ha
Flash and gleam among the oak trees,
Laugh and leap into the valley.”
St. Anthony
is beautifully situated, on a gently rising prairie, on the left or east bank of the Mississippi, at the Falls of St. Anthony, 8 miles by land above St. Paul, 2 miles further north, and 12 by the windings of the river, and also 7 miles by the latter above Fort Snelling. “The first dwelling was erected in this city in the autumn of 1847, and Mrs. Ard Godfrey claims the honor of having given birth to the first of the fair daughters of St. Anthony.” Here is located the University of the State. “Minnesota seems determined to be in advance of other states in education, for
two sections
in every township have been appropriated for the support of common schools, no other state having previously obtained more than
one
section in each of its townships for such a purpose.”
The celebrated Falls of St. Anthony were named, in 1680, by their discoverer, Louis Hennepin, in honor of his patron saint.
“They are only twenty feet in hight; but the scenery does not derive its interest from their grandeur, but from the perfect grouping of rock and wood and water on a magnificent scale. The Mississippi is upward of six hundred yards wide above the falls. These are quite perpendicular, and the water drops in beautiful single sheets on either side of a huge mass of white sandstone, of a pyramidal form, which splits the stream. The rapids below extend for several hundred yards, and are very broad, divided into various channels by precipitous islands of sandstone, gigantic blocks of which are strewn in grotesque confusion at the base of lofty walls of stratification of dazzling whiteness. These fantastically-shaped island are thickly wooded, and birch and maple cling with desperate tenacity to nooks and crannies in the perpendicular cliffs. The banks of the river are of a character similar to the islands in its stream. The snowy-white houses of St. Anthony are almost hidden by the thick foliage of the left bank.”
Situated at the head of navigation on the Mississippi, with an unlimited water power, St. Anthony has a fine prospect of becoming an important manufacturing and commercial city. It has abundance of building stone, is in a rich agricultural region, and with abundance of lumber in its vicinity.
Immediately opposite St. Anthony is the thriving town of
Minneopolis.
An elegant suspension bridge connects the two places. “As a work of beauty and art it can hardly be surpassed, while it has the appearance of great solidity; its massive cables being firmly anchored on either side in the solid rock. The work was undertaken in the spring of 1854, and finished the next year, at an expense of over $50,000, being the first suspension bridge ever built in a territory, and the first to span the Father of Waters.” The two places, St. Anthony and Minneapolis, have unitedly about 7,000 inhabitants.
Travelers visiting this region are apt to be eloquent in their descriptions. Part of this is no doubt to be attributed to the pure, dry, bracing atmosphere, which not only imparts a wondrous distinctness to the whole landscape, lending unwonted charms to the skies above, and to the earth beneath, but so braces up the system with the sensation of high health, that the stranger looks upon all things around him with most pleasing emotions. The effect of this elastic, life-giving atmosphere has, indeed, been described by some, as at times producing in them a buoyancy of feeling, that they could compare to nothing but the exhilaration occasioned by a slight indulgence in ardent spirits! Here the weak man feels a strong man, and the strong man a giant! The enthusiastic Bond, in his work on Minnesota, says that, owing to the strengthening nature of the climate, the labor of one man will produce more, and yield a larger surplus above his necessities, than in any other western state or territory. “We have,” says he, “none of the languor, and debility, and agues, that turn men into feeble women in the harvest field, as they have south of us.
Labor here stands firmly on its legs
, the year round, and
drives things through!
”
Among, the travelers in this region, who have spoken in its praise, is the celebrated savant Maury, superintendent of the National Observatory, at Washington. Says he:
At the small hours of the night, at dewy eve and early morn, I have looked out with wonder, love, and admiration upon the steel-blue sky of Minnesota, set with diamonds, and sparkling with brilliants of purest ray. The stillness of your small hours is sublime. I feel constrained, as I gaze and admire, to hold my breath, lest the eloquent silence of the night should be broken by the reverberations of the sound, from the seemingly solid but airy vault above.
Herschell has said, that in Europe, the astronomer might consider himself highly favored, if by patiently watching the skies for one year, he shall, during that period find, all told, one hundred hours suitable for satisfactory observations. A telescope, mounted here, in this atmosphere, under the skies of Minnesota, would have its powers increased many times over what they would be under canopies of a heaven less brilliant and lovely.
Col. F. A. Lumsden, of the New Orleans Picayune, writing from St. Anthony, two weeks before his death and that of his family by shipwreck, on the ill-fated steamer Lady Elgin, on Lake Michigan, thus gives vent to his admiration:
I have missed much by not having visited this section of country before, and one can have no correct idea of this region by anything they may hear or read about it. The scenery—the country—the lakes and the rivers—the crops and the climate are the finest in the world.
Such scenery as the Upper Mississippi presents I have never beheld: its beauties, its romantic grandeur can never be justly described. On either shore of this vast river, for miles on miles, stand the everlasting hills, their slopes covered with the emerald carpeting of spring.
As a place of summer resort, abounding in all the requisites of pleasure and health, St. Anthony excels all the watering places of the fashionable and expensive east. As for the Falls of St. Anthony, they are ruined by Yankee enterprise, and all their beauty has departed. Mills, foundries, dams and lumber rafts have spoilt all of nature“s romantic loveliness by their innovations, and you would be astonished to see the hundreds of houses recently erected here, some of which are beautiful and costly specimens of architecture, that would prove ornaments to any city. The Winston House, at St. Anthony, is one of the largest and most elegant hotels of the north-west, built of stone at a cost of $110,000, and furnished in princely style. It is now filled with southern people.
This is my fourth day here, and I already begin to experience the fine effects of the invigorating climate and stimulating atmosphere. I have been hunting and fishing, and found the sport excellent. There are plenty of deer in the neighborhood, but I have seen none of them yet. The chief shooting is the prairie chicken, and they are in abundance in the plains and stubble fields. For fishing one can hardly go amiss. Within a range of from six to twenty miles from the town, are several magnificent lakes. In all of these, the greatest quantity of fish is to be found, such as perch, of various kinds, pickerel, bass, trout, etc., while in numerous small streams, hundreds of trout—the
regular speckled trout
—are taken daily. A gay and joyous party of us yesterday visited Lake Minnetonka, where we got up a very handsome picnic, and had a good time. A party of six gentlemen, all from the south, are to start to-morrow for the buffalo grounds of the Red River of the North, on a grand hunting expedition.
The Minnesota River and Fort Snelling, as well as the pretty little Falls of Minne-ha-ha, lie between St. Paul and this place. From the hights of Fort Snelling a most enchanting view of the rich valley of the Minnesota is had; and the traveler looks out upon the vast plain, stretching away beneath his vision, with emotions of surprise—almost of bewilderment—at the stupendous scene.
What wealth, what riches have the United States not acquired in the possession of this great domain of the north?
Winona
, is on the Mississippi River, 150 miles below Saint Paul, and has 4,000 inhabitants. It was named from the Indian maiden Winona, who, according to the legend, threw herself from a cliff into Lake Pepin, and found a grave in its waters, rather than wed an uncongenial brave.
Red Wing
and
Hastings
are smaller towns, on the Mississippi, the first the seat of Hamlin University, a methodist institution, and on that beautiful expansion of the Mississippi, Lake Pepin: Hastings is 25 miles below St. Paul.
Mendota
is on a beautiful island, at the junction of the Minnesota with the Mississippi. It possesses great advantages in position, and was for a long time a noted trading post of the American Fur Company. Immediately in the rear of Mendota rises the lofty Pilot Knob, which is much visited.
Beside the above there are numerous other rising towns in Minnesota, of which we have not descriptions at hand, as
Wabashaw, Shakopee, Le Sueur, Nicollet, Stillwater, Lake City
, etc. Whatever descriptions may be given of the rising towns in the west are of doubtful value, excepting as a matter of history, for often is the rapidity of their increase so great, that the statistics of one season are of no reliability as a basis of knowledge a few seasons later.
Nicholas Perrot
was one of those master minds whose enterprises mark the history of their times. He was by birth a Canadian, bred to the excitements of a frontier life. Educated by service to the Jesuits, he became familiar with the customs and languages of the savages of the lakes of the far west. Years before La Salle launched the Griffin on Lake Erie, he was sent by government on an errand to the tribes of the north-west, and penetrated even as far south as Chicago. He was the first man known to have built a trading post on the Upper Mississippi, which he did on the shores of Lake Pepin. According to the Dakotah tradition, he gave seed and corn to their people, through the influence of which the Dakotahs began to be led away from the rice grounds of the Mille Lac region.
Louis Hennepin
was born in Ath, Netherlands. He was bred a priest of the Recollect branch of the Franciscans. From his youth he had a passion for travel and adventure, and sought out the society of strangers. “who spent their time in nothing else but either to tell or hear some new thing.” In 1676, he welcomed with joy the order from his superior to embark for Canada. He accompanied La Salle in his celebrated expedition to explore the far west. In Feb., 1680, he was dispatched by La Salle, with two voyageurs in a canoe, on a voyage of discovery up the unknown regions of the Upper Mississippi. It was on this journey that he discovered and named the Falls of St. Anthony. In 1683, he published, at Paris, a tolerably correct account of his travels in Minnesota. In 1698, he issued an enlarged edition, dedicated to King William, in which he falsely claimed to have descended the Mississippi to its mouth. His descriptions were stolen from the works of other travelers. Wishing to return to Canada, the minister of Louis XIV wrote, “As his majesty is not satisfied with the conduct of the friar, it is his pleasure that if he return thither, that they arrest and send him to the intendant at Rochefort.” “In the year 1701, he was still in Europe, attached to a convent in Italy. He appears to have died in obscurity, unwept and unhonored.”
Jean N. Nicollet
was born in 1790, in Cluses, Savoy. So poor were his parents that he was obliged, at the early age of nine years, to gain a subsistence by playing upon the flute and violin. When ten years old, he was apprenticed to a watch-maker, and turned his leisure hours to the study of mathematics. He eventually moved to Paris and entered the normal school, later became a college professor, and gained distinction as an astronomer, receiving the decoration of the Legion of Honor. In 1832, he emigrated to the United States, poor and honest. In the summer of 1836, he came to Minnesota, and explored the sources of the Upper Mississippi, with scientific exactness. Soon after he received a commission from the United States to explore the sources of the Minnesota, and at this time was assisted by John C. Fremont. “The map which he constructed, and the astronomical observations which he made, were invaluable to the country.” Hon. H. H. Sibley, in his notice of Nicollet, says:
“His health was so seriously affected after his return to Washington in 1839, that from that time forward he was incapacitated from devoting himself to the accomplishment of his work as exclusively as he had previously done. Still he labored, but it was with depressed spirits and blighted hopes. He had long aspired to a membership in the Academy of Sciences of Paris. His long continued devotion and valuable contributions to the cause of science, and his correct deportment as a gentleman, alike entitled him to such a distinction. But his enemies were numerous and influential, and when his name was presented in accordance with a previous nomination, to fill a vacancy, he was black-balled and rejected. This last blow was mortal. True, he strove against the incurable melancholy which had fastened itself upon him, but his struggles waxed more and more faint, until death put a period to his sufferings on the 18th of September, 1844.
Even when he was aware that his dissolution was near at hand, his thoughts reverted back to the days when he roamed along the valley of the Minnesota River. It was my fortune to meet him for the last time, in the year 1842, in Washington City. A short time before his death, I received a kind but mournful letter from him, in which he adverted to the fact that his days were numbered, but at the same time he expressed a hope that he would have strength sufficient to enable him to make his way to our country, that he might yield up his breath and be interred on the banks of his beloved stream.
It would have been gratifying to his friends to know that the soil of the region which had employed so much of his time and scientific research, had received his mortal remains
‘Time shall quench full many
A people's records, and a hero's acts,
Sweep empire after empire into nothing;
But even then shall spare this deed of thine.
And hold it up, a problem few dare imitate,
And none despise.’”
Lake Itasca
is one of the multitude of those clear, beautiful sheets of water which do so abound in Minnesota that the aboriginal inhabitants were called, by the early French voyageurs, the
“People of the Lakes.
” It is estimated by Schoolcraft, that within its borders are ten thousand of these, and it is thought, it is measurably to them that the husbandman of Minnesota is so blessed with abundance of summer rains. The waters, pure, sweet, and cold, abound with fish of delicious flavor. The Indians often reared their habitations on the margins of the most beautiful and picturesque. The greater number are isolated and destitute of outlets; usually of an oval form and from one to two and three miles in diameter, “with clear white sandy shores, gentle, grassy slopes, or rimmed with walls of rock, their pebbly beaches, sparkling with cornelians and agates, while the oak grove or denser wood which skirts its margin, completes the graceful outline.”
Lake Itasca.
The Source of the Mississippi.
Among all these sheets of water that by day and by night reflect the glories of this northern sky, the lake named
Itasca
, from an Indian maiden, is especially honored. For here, from the lap of encircling hills, in latitude 47 deg. 13 min. 35 see., 1,575 feet above the ocean, and 2,527 miles from it, by its own meanderings, the Mississippi, the Father of Waters, finds his birth-place.
Lake Itasca was first brought to the notice of the civilized world as the source of the Mississippi, by Mr. Henry R. Schoolcraft, Indian agent at Sault Ste. Marie. In the summer of 1832, he was given charge of an expedition to visit the Indians toward the source of the Mississippi. Attached to the expedition was a military escort, under Lieut. James Allen, Dr. Houghton, geologist Michigan, and Rev. W. T. Boutwell, who was sent out by the American Board, preliminary to establishing missions among the Indians. They crossed over from the west end of Lake Superior, and at two o'clock on the afternoon of the 13th of July, reached the Elk Lake, named Itasca by Mr. Schoolcraft. “With the exception of traders, no white men had ever traced the Mississippi so far. The lake is about eight miles in length, and was called Elk by the Ojibways, because of its regularities, resembling the horns of that animal. Lieut. Allen, the commander of the military detachment, who made the first map of this lake, thus speaks:
‘From these hills, which were seldom more than two or three hundred feet highthe true source and fountain
of the longest and largest branch of the Mississippi.’”
THE INDIANS OF MINNESOTA.
“Minnesota, from its earliest discovery, has been the residence of two powerful tribes, the Chippewas or Ojibways, and the Sioux—pronounced
Sooz
—or Dahkotahs.
* “The Dahkotahs in the earliest documents, and even until the present day, are called Sioux, Scioux, or Sees. The name originated with the early ‘voyageurs.’ For centuries the Ojibways of Lake Superior waged war against the Dahkotahs; and, whenever they spoke of them, called them Nadoway
sioux, which signifies enemies. The French traders, to avoid exciting the attention of the Indians, while conversing in their presence, were accustomed to designate them by names which would not be recognized. The Dahkotahs were nicknamed Sioux, a word composed of the two last syllables of the Ojibway word for foes.”—
Neill's Minnesota.
The Dahkotahs claim a country equal in extent to some of the most powerful empires of Europe, including the greater part of the country between the Upper Mississippi and the Missouri. The country from Rum River to the River De Corbeau has been alike claimed by them and the Ojibways, and has been the source of many bloody encounters within the last two hundred years. The Dahkotahs have destroyed immense numbers of their race, and are one of the most warlike tribes of North America. They are divided into six bands, comprising in all, 28,000 souls. Besides these, a revolted band of the Sioux, 8,000 strong, called Osinipoilles, reside just east of the Rocky Mountains, upon Saskatchawan River of British America.
The Dahkotahs subsist upon buffalo meat and the wild fruits of their forests. The former is called
pemmican
, and is prepared in winter for traveling use in the following manner: The lean parts of the buffalo are cut into thin slices, dried over a slow fire in the sun, or by exposing it to frost—pounded fine, and then with a portion of berries, mixed with an equal quantity of fat from the hump and brisket, or with marrow in a boiling state, and sowed up tightly in sacks of green hide, or packed closely in baskets of wicker-work. This ‘pemmican’ will keep for several years.
They also use much of the
wild rice
, which grows in great abundance in the lakes and head streams in the Upper Mississippi country. The rivers and lakes of the Dahkotah and Ojibway country are said to produce annually several millions of bushels of it, It is said to be equally as nutritious and palatable as the Carolina rice. It grows in water from four to seven feet deep, which has a muddy bottom. The plant rises from four to eight feet above the surface of the water, about the size of the red cane of Tennessee, full of joints and of the color and texture of bulrushes. The stalks above the water, and the branches which bear the grain, resemble oats. To these strange grain fields, wild ducks and geese resort for food in the summer; and to prevent it being devoured by them, the Indians tie
77
DOG DANCE OF THE DAHKOTAHS.
OJIBWAY SCALP DANCE.
The notes marked with accents are performed with a tremulous voice,
soundad High-yi-yi, &c.
The Ojibways inhabit the head-waters of the Mississippi, Ottertail and Leach, De Corbeau and Red Rivers, and Winnipeg Lake. They are a powerful tribe, almost equaling the Dahkotahs in numbers: they speak a copious language, and are of low stature and coarse features. The women have an awkward side-at-a-time gait; which proceeds from their being 'accustomed, nine months of the year, to wear snow-shoes, and drag sledges of a weight from two hundred to four hundred pounds. No people are more attentive to comfort in dress than the Ojibways. It is composed of deer and fawn-skins, dressed with the hair on for winter, and without the hair for summer wear.
They are superstitious in the extreme. Almost every action of their lives is influenced by some whimsical notion. They believe in the existence of a good and an evil spirit, that rule, in their several departments, over the fortunes of men; and in a state of future rewards and punishments.”
EFFECT OF THE CLIMATE OF MINNESOTA ON LUNG DISEASES.
[From the Letters of the Rev. Dr. Horace Bushnell]
I went to Minnesota early in July, and remained there until the latter part of the May following. I had spent a winter in Cuba without benefit. I had spent also nearly a year in California, making a gain in the dry season, and a partial loss in the wet season, returning, however, sufficiently improved to resume my labors. Breaking down again from this only partial recovery, I made the experiment now of Minnesota; and submitting myself, on returning, to a very rigid examination, by a physician who did not know at all what verdict had been passed by other physicians before, he said, in accordance with their opinion, “You have had a difficulty in the right lung, but it is healed.” I had suspected from my symptoms that it might be so, and the fact appears to be confirmed by the further fact that I have been slowly, though irregularly gaining all the summer.
This improvement, or partial recovery, I attribute to the climate of Minnesota. But not to this alone—other things have concurred. First, I had a naturally firm, enduring constitution, which had only given way under excessive burdens of labor, and had no vestige of hereditary disease upon it. Secondly, I had all my burdens thrown off, and a state of complete, uncaring rest. Thirdly, I was in such vigor as to be out in the open air, on horseback and otherwise, a good part of the time. It does not follow, by any means, that one who is dying under hereditary consumption, or one who is too far gone to have any power of endurance, or spring of recuperative energy left, will be recovered in the same manner.
A great many such go there to die, and some to be partially recovered and then die: for I knew of two young men, so far recovered as to think themselves well, or nearly so, who by overviolent exertion brought on a recurrence of bleeding, and died, one of them almost instantly, and the other in about twenty-four hours; both in the same week. The general opinion seemed to be that the result was attributable, in part, to the overtonic property of the atmosphere. And I have known of very remarkable cases of recovery there which had seemed to be hopeless. One of a gentleman who was carried ashore on a litter, and became a robust, hearty man. Another who told me that he had even coughed up bits of his lung, of the size of a walnut, and was then, seven or eight months after, a perfectly soundlooking, well-set man, with no cough at all. I fell in with somebody every few days who had come there and been restored; and with multitudes of others whose disease had been arrested, so as to allow the prosecution of business, and whose lease of life, as they had no doubt, was much lengthened by their migration to that region of the country. Of course it will be understood that a great many are sadly disappointed in going thither, and that as the number of consumptives making the trial increases, the funerals of the consumptive strangers are becoming sadly frequent.
The peculiar benefit of this climate appears to be from its dryness. There is as much, or even a little more of rain there than elsewhere, in the summer months; but it comes more generally in the night, and the days that follow brighten out in a fresh, tonic brilliancy, as dry almost as before. The winter climate is intensely
The San Francisco climate stands first, here, in dryness, it will be observed; but it requires to be noted, in the comparison, that while there is no rain-fall there for a whole six months, there is yet a heavy sea fog rolling in every day, which makes the St. Paul climate really the driest of the two. The beautiful inversion, too, of the California water-season, at St. Paul, will be noticed; the water falling here in the summer, when it is wanted, and ceasing in the winter, when it is not.
Arms of Iowa.
Motto
—Our liberties we prize, and our rights we will maintain.
Iowa
derived its name from the
Iowa
Indians, who were located on the Iowa River. They at last became incorported with other tribes, principally among the Sauks, or Sacs and Foxes. These tribes had the reputation of being the best hunters of any on the borders of the Mississippi or Missouri. At the time the first white traders went among them, their practice was to leave their villages as soon as their corn and beans were ripe and secured, to go on to their wintering grounds, it being previously determined in council on what particular ground each party should hunt. The old men, women, and children embarked in canoes; the young men went by land with their horses; and on their arrival, they commenced their winter's hunt, which lasted about three months. In the month of April, they returned to their villages to cultivate their lands. Iowa was originally a part of the French province of Louisiana. The first white settlement was made at Dubuque. As early as 1800, there were mines of lead worked at this place by the natives, assisted by Julien Dubuque, an Indian trader, who had adopted their habits, married into their tribe, and became a great chief among them. In 1830, a war among the Indians themselves was carried on with savage barbarity. Some 10 or 12 Sac and Fox chiefs, with their party, were going to Prairie du Chien from Dubuque, to attend a treaty conference with the U. S. commissioners, when they were attacked at Cassville Island by a large war party of the Sioux, and literally cut to pieces, only two of all their number escaping. The tribe, now in great confusion and alarm, left. Dubuque, mostly never to return, leaving the mines and this part of the country vacant, and open to settlement, as when occupied by them, they would allow no one to intrude upon their lands. In June of this year, Mr. L. H. Langworthy, accompanied by his elder brother, crossed the Mississippi in a
Until as late as the year 1832, the whole territory north of the state of Missouri was in undisputed possession of the Indians. After the Indians were defeated at the battle of the Bad Ax, in Wisconsin, Aug., 1832, partly to indemnify the government for the expenses of the war, the Sacs and Foxes ceded to the United States a strip of country west of the Mississippi, extending nearly 300 miles N. of Missouri, and 50 miles wide commonly called the
“Black Hawk Purchase.
” Further purchases were made in 1836 and 1837; and in 1842, by a treaty concluded by Gov. Chambers, a tract of about
fifteen million acres
was purchased of the Sacs and Foxes, for one million of dollars. This tract, comprising some of the finest counties of the state, is known as the
“New Purchase.
”
The Pottowatomies, who inhabited the south-western corner of the state and the Winnebagoes, who occupied the “Neutral Ground,” a strip of country on the northern borders, have been recently peaceably removed, and the Indian title has thus become extinct within the limits of Iowa. The territory now comprised within the limits of the state was a part of the Missouri Territory from 1804 to 1821, but after that was placed successively under the jurisdiction of Michigan and Wisconsin Territories. The following concluding details of its history are from Monette:
“The first white settlement in the Black Hawk Purchase was made near the close of the year 1832, at Fort Madison, by a colony introduced by Zachariah Hawkins, Benjamin Jennings, and others.
In the summer of 1835, the town-plat of ‘Fort Madison’ was laid off by Gen. John H. Knapp and Col. Nathaniel Knapp, the first lots in which were exposed to sale early in the year 1836. The second settlement was made in 1833, at Burlington, seventy-nine miles below Rock Island. About the same time the city of Dubuque, four hundred and twenty-five miles above St. Louis, received its first Anglo-American population. Before the close of the year 1833, settlements of less note were commenced at many other points near the western shore of the Mississippi, within two hundred miles of the northern limits of the state of Missouri. It was in the autumn of 1834, that Aaron Street, a member of the ‘Society of Friends,’ and son of the Aaron Street who emigrated from Salem, in New Jersey, founded the first Salem in Ohio, and subsequently the first Salem in Indiana, on a tour of exploration to the Iowa country, in search of ‘a new home,’ selected the ‘beautiful prairie eminence’ south of Skunk River as the site of another Salem in the ‘Far West.’ In his rambles thirty miles west of Burlington, over the uninhabited regions, in all their native loveliness, he was impressed with the great advantages presented by the ‘beautiful and fertile prairie country, which abounded in groves of tall forest trees, and was watered by crystal streams flowing among the variagated drapery of the blooming prairies.’ Transported with the prospect, the venerable patriarch exclaimed, ‘Now have mine eyes beheld a country teeming with every good thing, and hither will I come, with my children and my children's children, and my flocks and
Next year witnessed the commencement of the town of Salem, on the frontier region of the Black Hawk Purchase, the first Quaker Settlement in Iowa. Five years afterward this colony in the vicinity of Salem numbered nearly one thousand souls, comprising many patriarchs bleached by the snows of seventy winters, with their descendants to the third and fourth generations. Such was the first advance of the Anglo-American population west of the Upper Mississippi, within the ‘District of Iowa,’ which, before the close of the year 1834, contained nearly five thousand white inhabitants. Meantime, for the convenience of temporary government, the settlements west of the Mississippi, extending more than one hundred miles north of the Des Moines River, had been by congress erected into the ‘District of Iowa,’ and attached to the District of Wisconsin, subject to the jurisdiction of the Michigan Territory.
The District of Iowa remained, with the District of Wisconsin, attached to the jurisdiction of Michigan Territory, until the latter had assumed an independent state government in 1836, when the District of Wisconsin was erected into a separate government, known as the Wisconsin Territory, exercising jurisdiction over the District of Iowa, then comprised in two large counties, designated as the counties of Des Moines and Dubuque. The aggregate population of these counties in 1836 was 10,531 persons. It was not long before the District of Iowa became noted throughout the west for its extraordinary beauty and fertility, and the great advantages which it afforded to agricultural enterprize.
Already the pioneer emigrants had overrun the first Black Hawk Purchase, and were advancing upon the Indian country west of the boundary line. Settlements continued to extend, emigration augmented the population, and land offices were established at Dubuque and Burlington for the sale of such lands as were surveyed.
Meantime, the District of Iowa, before the close of the year 1838, had been subdivided into sixteen counties, with an aggregate population of 22,860 souls, distributed sparsely over the whole territory to which the Indian title had been extinguished. The same year, on the 4th of July, agreeably to the provisions of an act of congress, approved June 12, 1838, the District of Iowa was erected into an independent territorial government, known as the ‘Territory of Iowa.’ The first ‘territorial governor and superintendent of Indian affairs’ was Robert Lucas, formerly governor of Ohio, with James Clark secretaty of the territory. Charles Mason was chief justice of the superior court, and judge of the first judicial district; Joseph Williams was judge in the second district; and Thomas S. Wilson in the third. The first delegate elected by the people to represent them in congress was Augustus C. Dodge.
The Iowa Territory, as first organized, comprised ‘all that region of country north of Missouri, which lies west of the Mississippi River, and of a line drawn due north from the source of the Mississippi, to the northern limit of the United States.’
The first general assembly of the Iowa Territory made provision for the permanent seat of government, On the first of May, 1839, the beautiful spot which is now occupied by the ‘City of Iowa’ was selected.
During the year 1839, emigration from New England, and from New York by way of the lake route from Buffalo to the ports on the western shore of
Population increased in a remarkable manner; aided by the unbounded facilities of steam navigation, both on the great lakes and upon the large tributaries of the Mississippi, the emigration to the Iowa and Wisconsin Territories was unprecedented in the history of western colonization. The census of 1840 exhibited the entire population of Iowa Territory at 43,017 persons, and that of the Wisconsin Territory at 30,945 persons.
Such had been the increase of emigration previous to 1843, that the legislature of Iowa made formal application for authority to adopt a state constitution. At the following session of congress, an act was passed to ‘enable the people of the Iowa Territory to form a state government.’ A convention assembled in September, and on the 7th of October, 1844, adopted a constitution for the proposed ‘state of Iowa;’ it being the fourth state organized within the limits of the province of Louisiana.
By the year 1844, the population of Iowa had increased to 81,921 persons; yet the people were subjected to disappointment in the contemplated change of government. The constitution adopted by the convention evinced the progress of republican feeling, and the strong democratic tendency so prominent in all the new states. The constitution for Iowa extended the right of suffrage to every free white male citizen of the United States who had resided six months in the state, and one month in the county, previous to his application for the right of voting. The judiciary were all to be elected by the people for a term of four years, and all other officers, both civil and military, were to be elected by the people at stated periods. Chartered monopolies were not tolerated, and no act of incorporation was permitted to remain in force more than twenty years, unless it were designed for public improvements or literary purposes; and the personal as well as the real estate of the members of all corporations was liable for the debts of the same. The legislature was prohibited from creating any debt in the name of the state exceeding one hundred thousand dollars, unless it were for defense in case of war, invasion, or insurrection; and in such case, the bill creating the debt should, at the same time, provide the ways and means for its redemption. Such were some of the prominent features of the first constitution adopted for the state of Iowa. Yet the state was not finally organized under this constitution, and the people of Iowa remained under the territorial form of government until the close of the year 1846.
The constitution of Iowa having been approved by congress, an act was passed March 3, 1845, for the admission of the ‘state of Iowa’ into the Federal Union simultaneously with the ‘state of Florida,’ upon the condition that the people of Iowa, at a subsequent general election, assent to the restricted limits imposed by congress, in order to conform with the general area of other western states; but the people of Iowa refused to ratify the restricted limits prescribed for the new state, a majority of nearly two thousand in the popular vote having rejected the terms of admission. Hence Iowa remained under the territorial government until the beginning of 1846, when the people, through their legislature, acquiesced in the prescribed limits, and congress authorized the formation of another constitution, preparatory to the admission of Iowa into the Union.
The people of Iowa, in 1846, assented to the restriction of limits, and the formation of a territorial government over the remaining waste territory lying north and west of the limits prescribed by congress. Petitions, with numerous signatures, demanded the proposed restriction by the organization of a separate territory, to be designated and known as the ‘Dacotah Territory,’ comprising the Indian territory beyond the organized settlements of Iowa. Congress accordingly authorized a second convention for the adoption of another state constitution, and this convention assembled in May, 1846, and adopted another constitution, which was submitted to congress in June following. In August, 1846, the state of Iowa was formally admitted into the Union, and the first state election was, by the proclamation of Gov. Clarke, to be held on the 26th day of October following. In the ensuing December, the first state legislature met at Iowa City.”
Iowa is bounded N. by Minnesota and Dacotah Territory, W. by Missouri River, S. by the state of Missouri, and E. by Mississippi River. It is situated between 40° 30′ and 43° 30′ N. Lat., and between 90° 20′ and 96° 50′ W. Long. Its greatest width, from E. to W., is 307 miles, and 186 from N. to S.; included within its limits is an area of 50,914 square miles.
The face of Iowa is moderately uneven, without any mountains or very high hills. There is a tract of elevated table land, which extends through a considerable portion of the state, dividing the waters which fall into the Mississippi from those falling into the Missouri. The margins of the rivers and creeks, extending back from one to ten miles, are usually covered with timber, while beyond this the country is an open prairie without trees. The prairies generally have a rolling surface, not unlike the swelling of the ocean, and comprise more than two thirds of the territory of the state: the timbered lands only one tenth. The soil, both on the prairie and bottom lands, is generally excellent having a deep black mold intermingled with a sandy loam, sometimes of red clay and gravel. It is watered by streams of the clearest water, and its inland scenery is very beautiful. It is studded in parts with numerous little lakes of clear water, with gravelly shores and bottoms.
In the north-eastern part of the state are very extensive lead mines, being continuations of those of Illinois and Wisconsin. Vast coal beds exist, extending, it is stated, upward of
two hundred miles
, in the direction of the valley of the Des Moines River alone, which centrally intersects the state. The entire area of the coal fields in this state, is estimated to be not less than 35,000 square miles, nearly two thirds of the entire state. The beds of coal are estimated by geologists to be of the average thickness of 100 feet. Iron ore, zinc and copper are also found. Iowa is also rich in agricultural resources, its fertile soil producing all kinds of fruit and grains raised in northern climates. “As a general rule, the average quantity of snow and rain in Iowa is much less than in New York and New England. There are much fewer clouds. The cold weather in winter is about the same as in similar latitudes in the east; winter commences about the same time, but the spring generally opens much earlier. The intense cold weather is comparatively short. For a period of years the spring will average from two to four weeks earlier than in central New York. This difference is due to several causes.
In the east the proximity of large bodies of water gives rise to an immense number of very dense clouds, that prevent the spring sun from having the same effect as is experienced in the west. The altitude of the country, and the warm quick nature of the Iowa soil, are circumstances going far toward accounting for this difference. The heat of summer is much greater
Iowa is blessed with abundance of water power, and the noblest of rivers; the Mississippi is on the east, the Missouri on the west, while numerous streams penetrate it, the finest of which is the Des Moines, the great central artery of the state, which enters it from the north and flows south-east through it for 400 miles: it is a beautiful river, with a rocky bottom and high banks, which the state is making navigable, for small steamers, to Fort Des Moines, 200 miles from its mouth.
By the census of 1856, the number of paupers was only 132 out of a population of more than half a million. Population, in 1836, 10,531; in 1840, 42,017; in 1850, 192,214; in 1856, 509,000; in 1860, 674,948.
Eastern view of Dubuque, from Dunleith, Ill.
The view shows the appearance of Dubuque, as seen from the terminus of the Illinois Central Railroad, on the eastern side of the Mississippi. On the left is the terminus of the Pacific and Dubuque Railroad. On the right the Shot Tower. Back of the principal part of the city are the bluffs, rising to a hight of ubout 200 feet.
Dubuque,
the largest city, and the first settled place in the state, is on the right or western bank of the Mississippi, 1,638 miles above New Orleans, 426 above St. Louis, and 306 below the Falls of St. Anthony. The city proper extends two miles on a table area, or terrace, immediately back of which rise a succession of precipitous bluffs, about 200 feet high. A small marshy island is in front of the city, which is being improved for business purposes. The beautiful plateau on which the city was originally laid out, being too limited for its growth, streets have been extended up and over the bluffs, on which many houses have been erected of a superior order, among which are numerous elegant residences. The Dubuque Female College is
Mr. J. L. Langworthy, a native of Vermont, is believed to have been the first of the Anglo-Saxon race who erected a dwelling, and smelted the first lead westward of the Mississippi. He first came here in 1827. The first act resembling civil legislation, within the limits of Iowa, was done in Dubuque. Mr. Langworthy, with four others, H. P. Lander, James McPheeters, and Samuel H. Scales, having obtained permission to dig for mineral, entered into an agreement, dated July 17, 1830, by which each man should hold 200 yards square of ground, by working on said ground one day in six, and that a person chosen by a majority of the miners present, should hold the agreement, “and grant letters of arbitration.’ It appears, from an indorsement on the paper, that Dr. Jarrote held the articles, and was the first person chosen by the people in the territory to be clothed with judicial powers. In Oct., 1833, Mr. Langworthy and his brothers, with a few neighors, erected the first school-house built in Iowa. It stood but a few rods from the Female College. The first brick building erected in Dubuque was in the summer of 1837, by Le Roy Jackson, from Kentucky. This house is now standing on the corner of Iowa and Eleventh-streets, and is owned and occupied by William Rebman, a native of Pennsylvania, who came to Dubuque in 1836, when a lad of 14 years, and acted as hodman to the masons who erected the building. When Mr. R. came to this place, there were some 30 or 40 dwellings, many of them log cabins. The first religious services were held in a log structure, used by various denominations. The first school was kept by Rev. Nicholas S. Bastion, a Methodist preacher; the school house stood on the public square, near the Centennial Methodist Church. It is said that the first lead discovered here was by
Peosta
, an Indian chieftain or the wife of one, who presented it to Capt. Dubuque.
The site of Dubuque was anciently known as the cornfields and place of mounds of the
“Little Fox Village.
” It was named, in 1834, after
Julien Dubuque
, an Indian trader, who settled here in 1788, and is generally considered as the first white settler in Iowa. He is said to have been of French and Spanish parentage. He married into the Indian tribe, adopted their habits and customs, and became a great chief among them. He was of small stature, addicted to the vices incident upon the commingling of Spanish and Indian races in America, and a great medicine man. “He would take live snakes of the most venomous kind into his arms and bosom, and was consequently regarded by the Indians with superstitious veneration. He died a victim to his vices, and was buried on a high bluff that overlooks the river, near the Indian village at the mouth of Catfish Creek.” When his grave was visited by L. H. Langworthy, Esq., in 1830, a stone house, surmounted by a cedar cross, with a leaden door, stood over the spot. The remains of two Indian chiefs were also deposited within. The cross had a French inscription, of which the following is a translation:
“Julien Dubuque, miner, of the mines of Spain. Died this 24th day of March, 1810, aged 45 years 6 mo.”
The Indians, being instructed by Dubuque, worked the mines of lead here as early as 1800. About the year 1830, an Indian war, between the Sioux
The first newspaper issued here was by John King, Esq., under the following title:
“
Dubuque Visitor,
Truth our Guide—the public good our aim. Dubuque Lead Mines, Wisconsin Territory, May
16, 1836.”
In 1838, some attention was paid to agricultural pursuits. The soil proving good, the prosperity of the place greatly increased. The exportations of lead that year exceeded 6,000,000 lbs. In 1846, the lands adjoining Dubuque were brought into market, and the next year Dubuque was reincorporated under its present charter. The population at that time was less than 3,000.
“Below the ‘Little Fox village,’ is the bluff where the Sioux made their last and final stand against the Sacs and Foxes. It stands close upon the shore of the Mississippi, with its perpendicular walls about two hundred feet in hight, and sloping back toward a low prairie, by which it is surrounded and terminates with an abrupt descent to this prairie. Here and there, scattered around it, are castellated rocks, which make it one of nature's fortifications. The Sioux were encamped on the summit of this bluff. In the night the Sacs and Foxes commenced ascending, and when near their enemy, by a fierce encounter, they secured the outposts, and in a very short time had so reduced the number of the Sioux, that those remaining, rather than have their scalps hang at their enemies' girdles, threw themselves headlong from the precipice and were dashed to pieces. At the present time, a few of the bones of those devoted warriors may be found in this their last resting place; and of late years, when the Indians visit this spot, they cast pebbles and twigs from the summit upon the remains of those below.”
To the foregoing outline we annex these details from the Lectures of Lucius H. Langworthy, Esq., upon the History of Dubuque:
In 1827, the speaker came to the mines, in company with a brother and two sisters, together with Mr. Meeker, on his return from Cincinnati, Maj. Hough, Capt. Donney and lady, and five or six others.
We embarked at Quincy, Illinois, in a pirogue, and were thirty days on the voyage. A pirogue is a kind of intermediate craft, between a canoe and a keel boat. The name is French, and signifies the kind of boats used by the early voyageurs to transport their furs and effects over the shoal waters and rapid streams of the western wilderness. I mention the time occupied in our journey hither, in order to show some of the difficulties of settling this new country at that early period. Think of a boat's crew, with several ladies on board, all unaccustomed to the river, being compelled to work a boat up with poles and oars, against the swollen current of this mighty stream, in the hot weather of June, sleeping on sand bars, or anchored
We crossed over the Mississippi at this time, swimming our horses by the side of a canoe. It was the first flow, or the first tide of civilization on this western shore. There was not a white settler north of the Des Moines, and west of the Mississippi, to Astoria, on the Columbia River, with the exception of Indian traders. The Indians had all along guarded this mining district with scrupulous care. They would not allow the white people to visit the place, even to look at the old grass-grown diggings of Dubuque, which were known to exist here, much less would they permit mining to be done, or settlements to be made.
The country had just been abandoned by the red men, their moccasin tracks were yet fresh in the prairie trails along which the retiring race had fled on their mysterious mission westward, and the decaying embers were yet cooling on their deserted hearths within their now lonely and silent wigwams. Where Dubuque now stands, cornfields stretched along the bluffs, up the ravines and the Coule valley, and a thousand acres of level land skirting the shore, was covered with tall grass, as a field of waving grain. But the stalks of the corn were of the last year's growth, the ears had been plucked, and they were withered and blighted, left standing alone mournful representatives of the vanished race. A large village was then standing at the mouth of Catfish Creek, silent, solitar deserted—nothing remained to greet us, but the mystic shadows of the past. About seventy buildings, constructed with poles and the bark of trees, remained to tell of those who ad so recently inhabited them. Their council house, though rude, was ample in its dimensions, and contained a great number of furnaces, in which kettles had been placed to prepare the feasts of peace or war. But their council fires had gone out. On the inner surface of the bark there were paintings done with considerable artistic skill, representing the buffalo, elk, bear, panther, and other animals of the chase; also their wild sports on the prairie, and even their feats in wars, where chief meets chief and warriors mix in bloody fray. Thus was retained a rude record of their national history. It was burned down in the summer of 1830, by some visitors in a spirit of vandalism, much to the regret of the new settlers.
When the Indians mined, which was on special occasions, there were often fifty or a hundred boys and squaws at work on one vein. They would dig down a square hole, covering the entire width of the mine, leaving one side not perpendicular, but at an angle of about forty-five degrees, then with deer skin sacks attached to a bark rope they would haul out along the inclining side of the shaft the rock and ore. Their mode of smelting was by digging into a bank slightly, then put up flat rocks in a funnel shape, and place the ore within, mixed with wood; this all burnt together, and the lead would trickle down into a small excavation in the earth, of any shape they desired, and slowly cool and become fit for exportation.
The lead manufactured here in early times, by Dubuque and the natives, found its way to St. Louis, Chicago, Mackinaw, and other trading ports, and some even into the Indian rifle in the war of 1812, in the woods of Indiana and Michigan. The mode of smelting adopted at first, by the white people, was by building a furnace somewhat like two large chimney places, set in a bank of earth, leaving an aperture in the lower side, for a circulation of air. In these, large logs of wood were placed like back-logs, back-sticks and fore-sticks all fitting together, then the mineral was placed on the logs, covered with finer wood, and the whole set on fire. Thus, in twenty-four hours, the lead would be extracted and run into cast-iron molds. About fifty per cent. of lead was obtained in this way, leaving scoriæ and a waste of small pieces of ore to be run over in another furnace differently constructed. In this last process, about fifteen per cent. was added to the first product. Now, by the improved mode, of blast furnaces, about eighty-five per cent. is
As I have said, the speaker and an elder brother, in June of 1827, crossed the Mississippi in a canoe, swimming their horses by its side, landed for the first time on the western bank of the stream, and stood upon the soil of this unknown land. Soon after this, a number of miners crossed over the river, and possessed themselves of these lands, thus left vacant; their mining operations proved eminently successful.
About the fourth of July, Zachary Taylor, then commanding at Prairie du Chien, called upon the miners, in a formal and public manner, forbade their settlement, and ordered them to recross the river. This land was not yet purchased of the Indians, and, of course, came under the control of the war department. Captain Taylor, as he was then called, told the miners that it was his duty as a government officer, to protect the lands; that such were the treaty stipulations, and that they must be off in one week. They declined doing this, telling the captain that he must surrender this time. They urged that they had occupied a vacant country, had struck some valuable lodes, that the land would soon be purchased, and that they intended to maintain possession; to which Zachary Taylor replied,
“We shall see to that, my boys.
”
Accordingly a detachment of United States troops was dispatched, with orders to make the miners at Dubuque walk Spanish. Anticipating their, arrival, they had taken themselves off, for at that early day they believed that “rough” would be “ready” at the appointed time. The miners were anxiously peering from the high bluffs on the east side of the river as the steamer came in sight bringing the soldiers, who were landed on the west shore. Three of the men, who had lingered too long, were taken prisoners. They were, however, soon released, or rather took themselves off. It is said that one of them, a large, fat man, by the name of Lemons, made his escape from the soldiers while at Galena, and taking the course of the high prairie ridge leading northerly, exhibited such astonishing speed, that the race has long been celebrated among the miners, as the greatest feat ever performed in the diggings.
The military force was stationed permanently at Dubuque, and the Indians, venturing, back to the place, sure of safety and protection against their inveterate enemy, the Sioux, and other intruders, were encouraged to mine upon the lodes and prospects which the white people had discovered. From one mine alone the Indians obtained more than a million pounds of ore, in which they were assisted by the traders and settlers along the river, with provisions, implements, and teams. While the discoverers, those who had opened these mines again, after they were abandoned by them and the Spanish miners more than twenty years, were compelled to look across the water and see the fruits of their industry and enterprise consumed by the Indians. We lost, in this manner, more than twenty thousand dollars worth of mineral, which was taken from one lode by them.
In September, 1832, a treaty was held at Rock Island, by General Scott and others, on the part of the government, and the Black Hawk purchase was agreed to. It included all the country bordering on the west side of the Mississippi River, comprising the eastern portion of our state. About this time, those who felt an interest in the mines of Dubuque, returned to take possession of their former discoveries.
Many fine lodes and prospects were discovered, and considerable lead manufactured up to about January 25, 1833. I could here name many others who settled during this fall: Thomas McCraney, Whitesides, Camps, Hurd, Riley, Thomas Kelly, etc. In fact there were more than two hundred allured here by the flattering prospects of the country during this fall. But, in January, the troops were again sent down from Prairie du Chien, and removed the settlers the second time, merely because the treaty by which the land was acquired had not been ratified by the United States senate, a formal act that every one knew would take place at the earliest opportunity. This was a foolish policy on the part of the government, and operated peculiarly hard upon the new settlers, who were thus obliged to leave their cabins in the cold winter of 1832–3, and their business also until spring.
In June, 1833, Mr. John P. Sheldon, arrived with a commission from the department at Washington, as superintendent of the mines, the military force having been previously withdrawn, and the treaty confirmed. He proceeded to grant written permits to miners, and licenses to smelters. These permits entitled the holder to the privilege of staking off two hundred yards square of land wherever he chose, if not occupied by others, and have peaceful possession, by delivering his mineral to a licensed smelter, while the smelter was required to give a bond to the agent, conditioned to pay, for the use of the government, a fixed percentage of all the lead he manufactured. Mr. Sheldon continued to act in this capacity only about one year, for he could not be the instrument of enforcing this unjust and unwise policy. He saw that these men, like all other pioneers, who, by their enterprise were opening up a new country, and fitting it for the homes of those who follow their footsteps, should be left, by a wise and judicious system, to the, enjoyment of their hard earnings. The hidden wealth of the earth, its pine forests and surface productions, should alike be offered freely to all those who penetrate the wilderness, and thus lay the foundation of future societies and states.
It has been the policy of our government, at various times, to exact rent for all mineral, or pine lumber, taken from the public lands; which policy is wrong and should be forever abandoned; for the early settlers have privations and hardships enough, without encountering the opposition of their own government, especially these miners, many of whom had labored for years on the frontiers, out off from the enjoyments of home and all the endearments of domestic life. Your speaker was, himself, one of these, being thrown in early life upon the crest of the wave of western emigration, often beyond the furthest bounds of civilization, and not unfrequently amid the tragical scenes of border strife. Twenty-three years he labored, mostly in the mines, in different capacities, and during about half that period he has toiled in the deep, narrow caves and crevices, in the cold, damp ground, working upon his knees, sometimes in the water, and living like many other miners in “Bachelor's Hall,” cooking his own food, and feeling secluded from society and far from the circle and associations of youthful friendship. Under such privations, he felt the demand of a heavy tax, by the government, to be oppressive indeed, and he would be wanting in consistency and spirit, if he had not, on all proper occasions, protested against a system that seems much more regal than republican, and which degrades the western pioneer to the condition of a tenant at will of the general government.
In 1833–4, the town of Dubuque continued to improve. It now first received its name by a public meeting held for that purpose, and began to assume the appearance of a prosperous business place.
At this time there were but very few men in the whole country who did not indulge in drinking and gambling. “Poker” and “brag” were games of common pastime, while the betting often run up to hundreds of dollars in a single sitting. It pervaded all classes; the merchants and other passengers, to and from St. Louis, while on the steamboats occupied their time chiefly in this way, and it was considered no disgrace to gamble. Balls and parties were also common, and it was not an unfrequent occurrence for one to treat his partner in the dance at the bar, if he did not, he generally performed that delicate and flattering attention to himself. The Sabbath was regarded as a holiday, and vice and immorality were prevalent in every form. Yet amidst all this there were occasional gleams of moral sunshine breaking through the clouds of dissipation, and a brighter future lay before us. Upon the establishing of courts here, first under the jurisdiction of Michigan then under that of Wisconsin Territory, matters assumed a more peaceful and quiet aspect.
But there were even then occasions of turbulence and bloodshed, in quarrels about lands and claims. Mr. Woodbury Massey lost his life in one of these difficulties. There were no courts of competent jurisdiction to try cases of crime, or rights to property. A long time intervened between the withdrawal of the government protection and the establishment of civil laws by local authority.
No survey of the public lands had yet been made, and in the transition from the old to the new state of things, misunderstandings naturally arose. Under the government rules and regulations for the control of the mines, it was necessary to
Woodbury Massey was the eldest of several brothers and a sister, all left orphans in early life. Himself and family were members and the chief founders of the first Methodist Church erected in this city; a man of fine education, polite and amiable in his disposition, one of our first merchants, and possessing a large share of popular favor. He was enterprising in business, and upright in all his dealings. Had he lived, he would no doubt have proved a main pillar and support in our young community. But in an evil hour he became the purchaser of a lot or lode, called the Irish lot, near where Mr. McKenzie now lives.
It appeared that a Mr. Smith, father and son, had some claim on this lot or lode. They were the exact opposite to Mr. Massey, in character and disposition. A suit before a magistrate grew out of this claim, and the jury decided the property to belong to Mr. Massey. It being a case of forcible entry and detainer, the sheriff, as was his duty, went with the latter to put him again in possession of the premises.
When they arrived upon the ground, the two Smiths, being secreted among the diggings, rose up suddenly, and firing their guns in quick succession, Mr. Massey was shot through the heart. His family, living near by, saw him fall, thus early cut down in the prime of his life and usefulness, a victim to the unsettled state of the times, and the ungoverned passions of turbulent men. The perpetrators of this deed were arrested and held in confinement until the session of the circuit court, at Mineral Point, Judge Irving presiding. Upon the trial, the counsel for the defense objected to the jurisdiction of the court, which was sustained by the judge, and accordingly the prisoners were discharged and let loose upon society. They, however, left this part of the country for a time.
One of the younger brothers of Mr. Massey, highly exasperated by this transaction, that no trial could be obtained for such offenders, had determined, it seems, that should the elder Smith ever come in his way, he would take the punishment for the murder of his brother into his own hands. One day, while sitting in his shop at Galena, he chanced to see Smith walking the public streets of the place, when, instantly snatching a pistol and hastening in the direction, he fired upon him with fatal aim. Thus Smith paid the forfeit of his life by intruding again among the friends of the murdered man, and in the community which had witnessed the scenes of his violence.
For this act of the younger brother, there seems to have been the broadest charity manifested. He was never tried, or even arrested, and still lives in the country, a quiet man, and greatly respected by all who know him.
The death of the father, of course, soon brought the younger Smith to the mines. It was understood privately that he determined to shoot one or the other of the surviving brothers at the very first opportunity. He was known to be an excellent shot with a pistol, of imperious disposition and rash temper. These rumors finally reached the ears of the fair haired, blue eyed sister, who was thus made to believe that he would carry his threats into execution. She was just verging into woman hood, with fresh susceptibilities, and all of her deep affections awakened by the surrounding difficulties of the family. One day, without consulting others, she determined, by a wild and daring adventure, to cut off all chances of danger in that direction. Disguising herself for the occasion, and taking a lad along to point out the person she sought, having never seen him herself, she went into the street Passing a store by the way side, the boy saw Smith and designated him from the other gentlemen in the room by his clothing. On seeing him thus surrounded by other men, one would suppose that her nerves would lose their wonted firmness He was well armed and resolute in character, this she knew; yet stepping in amidst them all, in a voice tremulous with emotion and ominous in its tones, she exclaimed, “If you are Smith, defend yourself.” In an instant, as he arose, she
It so happened that Mr. Smith had, at the time, a large wallet filled with papers in his breast pocket. The ball striking about its center did not of course penetrate all of the folded leaves, and thus providentially his life was spared.
Smith, soon recovering from the stunning effects, rushed into the street to meet his assailant; but she had fled and found shelter at the house of Mr. Johnson, a substantial merchant of the town, and was subsequently sent away, by her friends here, to some relatives in Illinois, where she was afterward married to a Mr. Williamson, formerly of this place. Her name, Louisa, has been given to one of the counties in our State. Smith lived several years, but the wounds probably hastened his death. She is also dead, and it is to be hoped that God's mercy has followed them beyond earth's rude strifes, and that they dwell in peace in a purer and better world.
Ruins of Camanche, Clinton county.
After the Great Tornado of June 3, 1860. Engraved from a view taken by photograph.
The west has, at various periods of its history, been subject to severe tornadoes, which have carried ruin and devastation in their course. The most terrible ever known, was that which swept over eastern Iowa and western Illinois, on the evening of Sunday, June 3, 1860. It commenced about five miles beyond Cedar Rapids, in Linn county, Iowa, and stopped near Elgin, Illinois, thus traversing a distance of nearly 200 miles. It varied in width from half a mile to two miles. It was of the nature of a whirlwind, or as some eye witnesses aver of two whirlwinds, moving in the same direction and near each other, which in shape resembled a funnel. The larger villages between Cedar Rapids and the Mississippi, were out of the course of this fearful destroyer but much property was damaged, and more than fifty lives lost before reaching the river. The town of Camanche, on the Mississippi, in Clinton county, about 70 miles below Dubuque, was utterly destroyed, and New Albany, opposite it on the Illinois side, nearly ruined. It was stated in the
78
The storm reached Camanche at 7.30 P.M., with a hollow, rumbling noise heralding its approach, which sounded like a heavy train of cars passing over a bridge Moving with the velocity of lightning, it struck the devoted town, and the fearful work of havoc commenced. The scene that. followed, as given by eye witnesses, can neither be imagined nor described. Amidst the roar of the tempest, the rustling of the wind, the reverberating peals of thunder, the vivid flashes of lightning, the pelting of the rain, the crash of falling buildings, the agonizing shrieks of terror stricken women and children, the bewildered attempts to escape, and the moans of the dying, but little opportunity was left to observe the general appearance of the blow.
Parents caught their children in their arms and rushed frantic for any place that seemed to promise safety. Many found refuge in cellars, which to others proved graves. So sudden was the shock that many in the upper parts of buildings were left no time to flee to other parts.
To go outside was as hazardous as to remain within. The turbulent air was filled with fragments of lumber, furniture, and trees, flying in every direction, with the force of cannon balls.
Amidst such intense excitement, attended with such fatal consequences, moments seem years. But from statements, that beyond doubt are correct, the storm did not rage less than two and a half, nor more than five minutes. It would seem impossible, on looking at the devastation, to suppose it the work of so short a time. Darkness immediately closed over the scene, and left a pall over the town only equaled by the darker gloom that draped the hearts of the survivors of the disaster.
At Albany, heavy warehouses were lifted entire, and removed some considerable distance, strong brick and stone buildings entirely demolished, while the lighter frame dwelling houses were, in most cases, entirely swept away. We could not estimate the whole number of buildings injured, but could learn of not over three houses in the whole town that were not more or less damaged—most of them destroyed. The ground was strewed with fragments of boards. The hotel kept by Captain Barnes was not moved from its foundation, but part of the roof and inside partitions were carried away. The brick (Presbyterian) church was leveled to the ground, and the Congregational much injured. The brick and stone houses seemed to afford but little more protection than the frame, and when they fell gave, of course, less chance of escape. But one place of business (Mr. Pease's) was left in a condition to use. The buildings, household furniture, provisions, and everything in fact, in most instances, were swept beyond the reach of recovery. The ferry-boat was lifted from the water and laid upon the shore. Cattle, horses, and hogs, were killed or driven away by the irresistible element. The loss of life, however, was far less than could have been expected. But five persons were killed, and perhaps fifty or sixty injured.
Camanche was almost completely destroyed. A very few buildings were, as if by miracle, left standing, but even these were more or less injured. The ground was covered with splinters, boards, furniture, etc., completely shivered to pieces. Nothing perfect or whole was to be seen, but everything looked as though it had been riven by lightning. The larger trees were blown down: while on the smaller ones that would yield to the wind, were to be seen tattered pieces of clothing, carpets, pillows, and even mattresses, nearly torn to shreds. The river below was covered with marks of the storm, and much property was lost by being swept into the water. The general appearance of the ground was much like the traces left by a torrent where flood-wood is left lying in its path. Where buildings once stood is now a mass of unsightly ruins. It is with difficulty that the lines of the former streets can be traced. Frame houses were swept away or turned into every conceivable variety of positions. Dead animals were left floating in the river or lying among the ruins. The feathers on the poultry were even stripped from their bodies. Everything was so completely scattered and destroyed that it was useless
In all, thirty-eight persons were reported missing at Camanche, and thirty-two bodies have been found. About eighty were reported as wounded, some of whom have since died. Information has been received which furnishes us with reliable accounts of 139 deaths caused by the tornado along the line of the Iowa and Nebraska road, including Camanche. On the Illinois side of the river the loss of life has not been quite so great, but we think we are safe in putting the total number of killed at 175. The wounded are by far more numerous, while the loss of property can not be definitely estimated. We hear of 150 cattle in one yard in Iowa that were all destroyed. Farm houses, fences, crops, railroad cars, and all property that fell in the path of the tornado, were left in total ruin. There were hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of property destroyed, much of which will never be reported.
The tornado commenced in Linn county, Iowa, and stopped, as near as we can learn, in the vicinity of Elgin, Illinois. It, of course, would carry objects sometimes in opposite directions, moving as it did with the motion of a whirlwind. We saw one house that had been lifted from its foundation, and carried two hundred feet in a course directly contrary to the regular course of the tornado.
The escapes in all the places where the storm passed, were often truly miraculous. In Albany, Mr. Slaymaker had repaired to the church for the purpose of ringing the bell for worship, but seeing the appearance of a heavy rain approaching, concluded not to ring it. Had the congregation been called together it would have been certain death to all, as the walls of the church, being built of brick, fell on the inside. We saw a small house that had been carried several rods with three persons in it, and set down without damage to the house or inmates. A little daughter of Mr. Swett was lying on a bed, and was blown with it twenty rods into a grove, from whence it came unharmed, calling for its mother. An infant son of Mrs. Joseph Riley was buried beneath her, and it is thought that her own weight upon it was the cause of its death. One family took refuge in a meal chest, which, fortunately, proved strong enough to protect them from a mass of rubbish that covered them. Mrs. Oliver M'Mahan fell in a place where the floor of the first story had been previously partly broken, producing a sag or bend. The joists fell over her, but were long enough to reach over the bend, and thus saved her life. Mr. Effner had at one time been safely secure in his cellar, but going up for something to shield his child from the cold, was killed instantly. We saw two children who were killed in the arms of their mothers. At Camanche, the first story of a hardware store, with its contents, was carried into the river and lost, while the upper part of the building dropped down square upon the foundation as though placed there by mechanics. A child was blown from fifteen miles west of Camanche to that place and landed uninjured. One man in Iowa was taken up 200 feet. A family on a farm took refuge in a “potato hole,” where they remained secure; but the house they left was completely demolished. Pieces of boards were picked up eight and ten miles from Albany, in both north and south directions. A wagon was lifted into the air, broken to pieces, and the tire of one of the wheels twisted out of all shape. Nine freight cars, standing on the track at Lisbon, were blown some distance from the place they were standing. The tornado raised immediately over the house of Mr. Minta, in Garden Plain, and descended to strike the next house beyond. We noticed that those living in frame houses met with less loss of life than the inmates of brick or stone houses.
A passenger from the west informs us that a small boy was blown across Cedar River, and his mangled body left in the forks of a tree. In one family all that was left were three little girls, the father and mother and two children having been instantly killed. We saw where a fence board had been forced clear through the side of a house, endwise, and hundreds of shingles had forced themselves clear through the clapboards of a house.
Another eye witness says: A chimney, weighing about two tuns, was broken off at its junction with the roof, lifted into the air, and hurled down into the front yard, burying itself in the ground a depth of three feet, without breaking or cracking a single brick. A light pine shingle was driven from the outside through the clapboards, lath and plaster, and projects two inches from the inside wall of a dwelling house. No other known force could have accomplished this. A common trowel such as is used by masons, was driven through a pine knot in the side of a barn, projecting full two inches. In one spot was found a large pile of book covers, every leaf from which was gone, and twisted into a thousand shapes. Leaves were stripped of their tissue, leaving the fibers clean and bare as if a botanist had neatly picked it off. Tree trunks were twisted several times round until they were broken off. The Millard House, a three story brick structure, fronting north, was lifted up from its foundation and turned completely round, so that the front door faced the south. It then collapsed, and seemed to fall outwardly as if in a vacuum, and, strange to relate, out of seventeen persons in the house, only two were killed. One house upon the bank was lifted from its foundation and whirled into the river, crushing as it fell and drowning three persons, the inmates.
A piano was taken out of a house in the center of the town, and carried some distance to the river bank without breaking it.
The effects upon some of the houses near Camanche, which were in the outer edge of the tornado, were very curious. Upon some roofs the shingles were stripped off in faciful shapes, a bare spot upon one roof exactly resembling a figure 8. Some roofs were entirely unshingled, and in some cases every clapboard was torn off. The sides of some houses were literally perforated with boards, splintered timbers and sharp stakes. In some parts of Camanche, where house stood thickly clustered together, there is not a vestige of one left. Another tract of about forty acres is covered with splinters about two feet in length. The lower stories of some houses were blown out entirely, leaving the upper story upon the ground. The town is entirely ruined, and we do not see how it can ever be rebuilt. There are whole blocks of lots that are vacant entirely, with nothing but the cellar to indicate that a house ever stood there.
The whole atmosphere around the place is sickening, and a stench is pervading the whole path of the storm that is almost impossible to endure.
Davenport,
a flourishing city, the county seat of Scott, is beautifully situated on the right bank of the Mississippi, at the foot of the upper rapids, opposite the town of Rock Island, with which it is connected by a most magnificent railroad bridge, the first ever built over the Mississippi. The great railroad running through the heart of the state, and designed to connect the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers, has its eastern terminus at Davenport. The city is 330 miles above St. Louis, and 100 below Galena. The rapids extend 20 miles above this place, and the navigation of the river is somewhat obstructed by them during the time of low water. The city is built on ground which rises gradually from the water, with a chain of rounded hills in the back ground. Davenport contains about 12,000 inhabitants.
The city derived its name from Col. George Davenport, who was born in England, in 1783. He came to this country when a young man, entered the U. S. army as sergeant, and saw considerable service, on the frontier, in the war of 1812. After the war, he settled on Rock Island, opposite this town, and engaged in trading with the Indians. That vicinity was densely settled by them. The village of Black Hawk was there in the forks of Rock River and the Mississippi. He carried on the fur trade very extensively for many years, establishing trading posts at various points. On the 4th of July, 1845, a band of robbers entered his beautiful residence in the middle of the day, in the absence of his family, and in robbing, accidentally
Southern view of Davenport, from the Rock Island Ferry.
The Steamboat Landing and Flouring Mill is seen in the central part. The Railroad Depot and A. LeClaire's residence, on an elevation in the distance, on the right. The Iowa College building on the left.
During the Black Hawk war Mr. Davenport received a commission from Gov. Reynolds, appointing him acting quartermaster general, with the rank of colonel In the latter part of the summer of 1832, the cholera broke out among the troops on the island, and ranged fearfully for about ten days; one hundred died out of population of four hundred; every person was dreadfully alarmed. An incident occurred during this time which will show the state of feeling. Mr. Davenport Mr. LeClaire, and a young officer were standing together in front of the store one morning. The officer had been giving them an account of the number of deaths and new cases, when an orderly came up to them with a message from Gen. Scott to Mr. LeClaire, requesting him to come down to the fort as soon as possible. Mr. LeClaire looked at Mr. Davenport to know what excuse to make. Mr. Davenport; after a moment, replied to the orderly to tell Gen. Scott that Mr. LeClaire could not come, as he was quite sick. The officer and orderly laughed heartily at Mr. Davenport and Mr. LeClaire being so much alarmed; but next morning the first news they received from the fort, was, that these two men were dead.
At the time the cholera broke out at Fort Armstrong, there were two Fox chiefs confined in the guard-house for killing the Menomonies at Prairie du Chien, and had been given up by their nation as the leaders, on the demand of our government, and were awaiting their trial, Mr. Davenport interceded for them with the commanding officer, to let them out of their prison, and give them the range of the island, with a promise that they should be forthcoming when they were wanted. The Indians were released, and they pledged their word not to leave the island
The following extracts relative to the early history of Davenport, are from Wilkie's History of the city:
“In the year 1833, there were one or two claims made upon the lands now occupied by the lower part of the city. The claim upon which the city was first laid out was contended for by a Dr. Spencer and a Mr. McCloud. The matter was finally settled by Antoine LeClaire buying them both out: giving them $150
In the spring of the next year, the site was surveyed and laid out by Maj. Gordon, U. S. surveyor, and one of the stockholders. The cost of the entire site was $2,000 or $250 per share. In May the lots were offered at auction. A steamboat came up from St. Louis, laden with passengers to attend the sale, which continued for two days. Some 50 or 60 lots only were sold, mostly to St. Louis speculators, at from $300 to $600 each. The remaining portion of the site was divided among the proprietors. The emigration this year was small, only some half dozen families coming in. The first tavern was put up this year and opened by Edward Powers, on the corner of Front and Ripley-streets. It was built by Messrs. Davenport and LeClaire, and was called
“Davenport Hotel.
” A log shanty drinking saloon was also put up, which stood on Front-street, below the Western-avenue. It was long a favorite resort of the politician and thirsty.
James Mackintosh opened the first store, and commenced business in a log house near the U. S. House, corner of Ripley and Third-streets
The first child born in Davenport, was in 1841, a son of L. S. Colton.
In the summer of 1836, Mr. A. LeClaire was appointed postmaster. Mails came once a week from the east, and once in two weeks from Dubuque. The postmaster used to carry the mail across the river in his pocket, and the per centage for the first three months was
seventy-five cents.
In September, a treaty was held at East Davenport, between Gov. Dodge, U. S. commissioner, and the Sacs and Foxes. The object of the treaty was to secure possession of the land bordering on the Iowa River, and known as “Keokuk's Reserve.” About one thousand chiefs and warriors were present, and were encamped during the time just above Renwick's mill.of which a gentleman, since governor of the state, was once hostler
). The year (1836) closed with a population of less than one hundred. Stephenson (now Rock Island) which had been laid out in 1834, had at this time a population of nearly five hundred
The first duel “on record” in Iowa, was fought, in the spring of 1837, between two Winnebago Indians. These young men, in a carousal at Stephenson, commenced quarreling, and finally resorted to the code of honor. One had a shot gun, the other a rifle. On the Willow Island, below the city, at the required distance they fired at each other. The one with the shot gun fell, and was buried not far from the graveyard below the city. The survivor fled to his home in the Rock River country. The friends and relations of the slain clamored for the blood of the slayer, and the
sister
of the latter went for the survivor. She found him—entreated him to come back to Rock Island and be killed, to appease the wrathful manes of the deceased. He came—in a canoe paddled by his own sister—singing his death song. A shallow grave was dug, and kneeling upon its brink, his body tumbled into it, and his death song was hushed, as the greedy knives of the executioners drank the blood of his brave heart.
Dr. A. E. Donaldson, from Pennsylvania, came in July, 1837, and was, it is stated, the first regular physician. The religious services, for this year, and for a year or two afterward, were held in a house belonging to D. C. Eldridge. Clergymen of various denominations officiated. In 1838, during the summer, the first brick house was erected by D. C. Eldridge, standing on the S.E. corner of Main and Third streets. Nearly at the same time, the brick building now used by the Sisters, in Catholic block, was completed as a church. A long controversy between Rockingham and Davenport, respecting the location of the county-seat, was terminated in favor of the latter, in 1840, by the citizens of Davenport agreeing to construct the court house and jail, free of expense to the county.
The celebrated
“Missouri War
” is ascribed to about this date. It arose from a dispute in regard to boundary—two lines having been run. The northern one cut off a strip of Iowa some six or eight miles in width, and from this portion Missouri endeavored to collect taxes. The inhabitants refused to pay them, and the Missouri authorities endeavored, by sending a sheriff, to enforce payment. A fight ensued, and an Iowan was killed, and several taken prisoners. The news spread along the river counties, and created intense excitement. War was supposed to be impending, or to have actually begun.
Col. Dodge, an individual somewhat noted as the one who, in connection with Theller, had been imprisoned by the Canadian authorities for a participation in the “Patriot War,” had lately arrived here, after breaking jail in Canada. His arrival was opportune—a call for volunteers to march against Missouri was circulated, and was responded to by some three hundred men, who made Davenport their rendezvous on the proposed day of marching. A motley crowd was it! Arms were of every kind imaginable, from pitchforks to blunderbusses, and Queen Anne muskets. One of the colonels wore a common rusty grass scythe for a sword, while Capt. Higginson, of company A, had been fortunate enough to find an old
The parade ground was in front of the ground now occupied by the Scott House. Refreshments were plenty, and “steam” was being rapidly developed for a start, when word came that peace was restored—Missouri having resigned her claim to the disputed ground. The army was immediately disbanded, in a style that would do honor to the palmiest revels of Bacchus. Speeches were made, toasts drunk, and a host of maneuvers, not in the military code, were performed, to the great amusement of all. Some, in the excess of patriotism and whisky, started on alone to Missouri, but lay down in the road before traveling far, and slept away their valor.
St. Anthony's Church, the first erected, was dedicated May 23, 1839, by Rt. Rev. Bishop Loras, of Dubuque. The Catholic Advocate thus states, “Mr. Antoine LeClaire, a wealthy Frenchman, and a zealous and exemplary Christian, in partnership with Mr. Davenport, has granted to the Catholic congregation, in the very center of the town, a whole square, including ten lots, erecting, partly at his own expense, a fine brick church with a school room attached.”
The First Presbyterian Church was established in the spring of 1838, pastor, James D. Mason; the Davenport Congregational Church was organized July 30, 1839, by Rev. Albert Hale; their present church building was erected in 1844. The first regular services of the Protestant Episcopal Church were commenced here Oct. 14, 1841, by Rev. Z. H. Goldsmith. The corner stone of the present edifice of Trinity Church was laid, by Bishop Kemper, May 5, 1852. The Methodist Episcopal Church was established June 1, 1842; the First Baptist Church was established in 1839, N. S. Bastion, pastor; the German Congregation was established July 19, 1857, A. Frowein, pastor; “Church of Christ,” or Disciples Church established July 28, 1839.
The first newspaper was the “Iowa Sun and Davenport and Rock Island News,” issued in Aug., 1838, by Alfred Sanders. It was continued till 1841, when it was succeeded by the “Davenport Weekly Gazette.” The “Weekly Banner” was started in 1848, by A. Montgomery; in 1855, it was bought by Messrs. Hildreth, Richardson & West, and was changed to the “Iowa State Democrat.” The “Evening News,” daily and weekly, was started by Harrington & Wilkie, Sept., 1856. The “Der Demokrat” (German) was established, by T. Guelich, in 1851.
Bellevue
, the capital of Jackson county, is on the Mississippi, 12 miles below Galena. It is one of the oldest towns in the state, having been first settled in 1836, by J. D. Bell. The location being a beautiful one, had long been a favorite spot with the Indians. The population in 1860 was about 1,500.
The following interesting narrative of some incidents which took place here in the early settlement of the place is given to us by Wm. A. Warren Esq. He was the sheriff in command of the posse of citizens, some of whom it will be seen lost their lives in their efforts to restore law and order.
In the year 1836, was organized a band of horse-thieves, counterfeiters, and highway robbers, having their head-quarters near Elk Heart, Michigan, and extending their ramifications in all directions from that point, many hundred miles. The Rock River valley, Illinois, and the settled portions of what is now Iowa, were the chief points of their operations, although the band extended through Kentucky, Missouri, and even to the Cherokee Nation.
Their organization was complete. They had their pass words, and other means of recognition. No great master spirit controlled the whole organization, as is usually the case in criminal associations of that nature. The leaders were those whose education rendered them superior to the instincts of the half savage settlers with whom they were associated.
Their method of doing business, and escaping detection, was as follows: B.'s“spot
” certain horses and other “plunder,” and arrange to make a foray on some particular night. A., in Missouri, having obtained the knowledge of this, would start his band on a marauding expedition the same night. But those who were to do the plundering would make a feint to go north or south on a trading expedition, a day or two before the time fixed upon, and returning at night, would be carefully concealed until the proper time, when they would sally forth on the expedition in earnest. The two bands then meeting half way, would exchange the stolen property, and returning, dispose of the plunder, perhaps to the very persons whom they had robbed a few nights before.
Storming of the Bellevue Hotel, by the Citizens.
The engraving illustrates a scene in the early history of Bellevue. The hotel of the town was occupied by a band of outlaws, who had been the terror of the whole country for hundreds of miles distant. As they defied the authorities, the citizens were compelled to resort to arms. The stronghold was carried by storm, in which several were slain on each side.
Those of the band who were merely accomplices, were careful to be visiting some honest neighbor on the night of the robbery, and thus avert suspicion from themselves. By this means, it will be seen, that detection was almost impossible, and suspicion unlikely to rest upon the real perpetrators.
The then frontier village of Bellevue, was a central point on this route, and also the head-quarters of one of the most numerous and powerful of the bands. Its leader, William Brown, was a man remarkable in many respects. He came to Bellevue in the spring of 1836, and soon after brought out his family and opened a public house, which was destined to become famous in the village history. Brown, physically, was a powerful man, and in education superior to those around him. He possessed a pleasant, kindly address, and was scrupulously honest in his every day's dealings with his neighbors. It is said that none who reposed confidence in him in a business transaction ever regretted it. He was ably seconded by his wife, a woman of about 24 years of age, and of more than ordinary natural capacity. They had but one child, a little girl of some four years of age. Ever ready to assist the destitute, the foremost in public improvements, this family soon became idolized by the rude population of that early day, so that nothing but positive proof finally fastened suspicions of dishonesty upon them. Having, by his
Any man who incurred the enmity of the “gang,” was very certain to wake some morning and find his crops destroyed, his horses stolen, and the marks of his cattle having been slaughtered in his own yard; in all probability the hind quarters of his favorite ox would be offered for sale at his own door a few hours thereafter. If one of his gang was arrested, Brown stood ready to defend him, with an argument not now always attainable by the legal profession—he could, at a moment's notice, prove an
alibi.
Thus matters went on, until it became apparent to the honest portion of the community that the crisis had arrived.
As an instance of the boldness which they evinced, now the band had become so powerful, we give an incident of the stealing of a plow from a steamboat. In the spring of 1839, a steamboat landed at Bellevue
to wood;
the boat was crowded with passengers, and the hurricane deck covered with plows. It being a pleasant day, the citizens, old and young, according to custom, had sallied forth to the river side, as the landing of a steamboat was then by no means a daily occurrence. The writer of this, standing near Brown, heard him remark to a man, named Hapgood, and in the presence of numerous citizens, “that, as he (H.) had long, wanted, to join Brown's party, if he would steal one of those plows, and thus prove his qualifications, he should be admitted to full fellowship.” Hapgood agreed to make the trial, and thereupon, to our surprise, as we had supposed the conversation to be merely in jest, he went upon the hurricane deck, and in the presence of the captain, passengers, and citizens on shore, shouldered a plow and marched off the boat and up the levee. When on the boat, Hapgood conversed with the captain for a few minutes, and the captain pointed out to him which plow to take. In a few moments the boat was gone, and Hapgood boasted of the theft. It was supposed that he had bought the plow and paid the captain for it, but the next day, when the boat returned, there was great and anxious inquiry, by the captain, “for the man that took that plow,” but he had disappeared, and remained out of sight until the boat was gone. About the same time another bold robbery occurred near Bellevue, the incidents of which so well illustrate the character of these ruffians, that we can not forbear recounting them.
One Collins, a farmer, living about eight miles from town, came in one day and sold Brown a yoke of cattle for $80. Being a poor judge of money, and knowing Brown's character well, he refused to take anything, in payment but specie. On his return home that evening, he placed his money in his chest. About midnight his house was broken open by two men, upon which he sprang from his bed, but was immediately knocked down. His wife coming to his rescue was also knocked down, and both were threatened with instant death if any more disturbance was made. The robbers then possessed themselves of Collins' money and watch and departed. In the morning he made complaint before a justice of the peace, accusing two men in the employment of Brown with the crime. They were arrested and examined. On the trial, Collins and his wife swore positively to the men, and also identified a watch found with them as the one taken. In their possession was found $80 in gold, the exact amount stolen. A farmer living near Collins, testified that about 11 o'clock, on the night of the robbery, the accused stopped at his house and inquired the way to Collins'. Here the prosecution closed their evidence, and the defense called three witnesses to the stand, among whom was
Fox
, afterward noted as the murderer of
Col. Davenport
, all of whom swore positively that, on the night of the robbery, they and the accused played cards from dark till daylight, in Brown's house, eight miles from the scene of the robbery! In the face of the overwhelming testimony adduced by the state, the defendants were discharged!
Another laughable instance, displaying the shrewdness and villainy of these fellows, occurred early in the spring of 1838. Godfrey (one of the robbers of Collins) came into town with a fine span of matched horses, with halter ropes around
Imagine the consternation of the sheriff, when, two days later, the true owner of the horses appeared in search of them! The other was an accomplice of Godfrey, and they had taken that method of securing their booty. Similar incidents could be detailed to fill pages, for they were of continual occurrence.
On the 20th of March, 1840, the citizens of Bellevue, not implicated in the plans of the horse-thieves and counterfeiters, held a meeting to consider the wrongs of the community. But one opinion was advanced, that the depredators must leave the place or summary vengeance would be inflicted upon them all. It was resolved that a warrant should be procured for the arrest of the whole gang, from Justice Watkins—father of our present sheriff—and, upon a certain day, the sheriff, accompanied by all the honest citizens as a posse, should proceed to serve the same. The warrant was issued upon the affidavit of Anson Harrington, Esq., one of our most respectable citizens, charging about half the inhabitants of the town—Brown's men—with the commission of crimes.
A posse of 80 men was selected by the sheriff from among the best citizens of the county, who met in Bellevue on the first day of April. 1840, at 10 o'clock, A.M. Brown, in the mean time, had got wind of the proceedings, and had rallied a party of 23 men, whose names were on the warrant, and proceeded to fortify the Bellevue Hotel, and prepare for a vigorous defense. On the-sheriff's arriving in Bellevue with his party, he found a red flag streaming from the hotel and a portion of Brown's men marching to and fro in front of their fort, armed with rifles, presenting a formidable appearance.
A meeting of the citizens was then convened to consult upon the best method of securing the ends of justice, of which Major Thos. S. Parks was chairman. It was resolved that the sheriff should go to Brown's fort, with two men, and demand their surrender, reading his warrant, and assuring them that they should be pro tected in their persons and property. It was also resolved, if they did not surrender, to storm the house, and that Col. Thos. Cox, then a representative in the lows legislature, should assist the sheriff in the command of the party selected for this purpose.
The sheriff then went to the hotel, accompanied by Messrs. Watkins and Magoon. When near the house, they were suddenly surrounded by Brown and a party of his men, all fully armed. They captured the sheriff, and ordered Watkins and Magoon to return and inform the citizens, that at the first attempt to storm the house, they would shoot the sheriff. Being conducted into the house, the sheriff read his warrant and informed them of the proceedings of the meeting. Just then it was discovered that Col. Cox, with a party of citizens, was rapidly advancing on the hotel. Upon the sheriff's promise to stop them and then return, he was released by Brown. He met the party, and accosting Cox, requested him to delay the attack one hour, and if he (the sheriff) did not return by that time, for them to come on and take the house.
Cox was determined the Sheriff should not return, saying that he should not keep his word with such a band of ruffians. Better counsels, however, prevailed, and the sheriff went back. On his return he found that Brown's men had been
The sheriff returned and disclosed the result of his interview. Mrs. Brown, in the mean time, and a fellow called Buckskin, paraded the streets with a red flag. The citizens were then addressed by Cox and Watkins, and it was finally determined that a body of forty men should be selected to make the attack, upon which the posse started and charged upon the house at a full run. As our men entered the porch, the garrison commenced firing, but we being so near they generally overshot their mark. At the first fire one of our best men, Mr. Palmer, was killed, and another, Mr. Vaughn, badly wounded. Brown opened the door and put out his gun to shoot, when he was immediately shot down by one of our men. The battle then became desperate and hand to hand. After considerable hard fighting, the “balance” of the gang commenced their retreat through the back door of the house. They were surrounded and all captured but three. The result of the fight was, on the part of the counterfeiters the loss of five killed and two badly wounded; on the part of the citizens, four killed and eleven wounded.
The excitement after the fight was intense. Many of the citizens were in favor of putting all the prisoners to death. Other counsels, however, prevailed, and a citizens' court was organized to try them.
During the fight, Capt. Harris anchored his boat in the middle of the river, and remained there until the result was known, when the passengers ascended to the upper deck and gave three hearty cheers. Doctors Finley, of Dubuque, and Crossman, of Galena, were sent for, and were soon in attendance on the wounded of both parties.
Much joy was manifested by the citizens at the breaking up of one of the most desperate gangs of housebreakers, murderers and counterfeiters, that ever infested the western country. The next morning a vote of the citizens was taken as to the disposal of the prisoners.
As the district court was not to meet for three months, and there being no jail in the county, and in fact none in the territory that was safe, and surrounded as we were on all sides, by offshoots of the same band, who could muster 200 men in a day's time to rescue them, it was deemed the merest folly to attempt to detain them as prisoners, and it was resolved to execute summary justice upon them. The question was then put, whether to hang or whip them. A cup of red and white beans was first passed around, to be used as ballots, the
red
for hanging, and the
white
for whipping.
A breathless silence was maintained during the vote. In a few moments the result was announced. It stood
forty-two
white and
thirty-eight
red beans. The resolution to whip them was then unanimously adopted. Fox, afterward the murderer of Davenport, and several others made full confessions of many crimes, in which they had been engaged. The whole crowd of prisoners was then taken out and received from twenty-five to seventy-five lashes apiece, upon their bare backs, according to their deserts. They were then put into boats and set adrift in the river, without oars, and under the assurance that a return would insure a speedy death.
Animated by the example of Bellevue, the citizens of Rock River, Ill., Linn, Johnson, and other counties, in Iowa, arose
en masse
, and expelled the gangs of robbers from their midst, with much bloodshed.
Thus ended the struggle for supremacy between vice and virtue in Bellevue, which, from this day forth, has been as noted, in the Mississippi valley, for the morality of its citizens, as it was once rendered infamous by their crimes.
Burlington,
a flourishing commercial city, the seat of justice for Des Moines county, is on the western side of the Mississippi, 45 miles above Keokuk, 248 above St. Louis, and 1,429 above New Orleans. The city was organized under a charter from the Territory of Wisconsin, in 1838. It is
South-eastern view of Burlington.
The view shows the appearance of the city, as seen from near the South Bluff: the eastern terminus of the Burlington and Missouri Railroad, the Court House, and other public buildings, on the elevated ground in the distance, appear in the central part; the North Bluff and Steamboat Landing on the right
The country for sixty miles around Burlington, sometimes called the “garden of Iowa,” is very fertile. Near the city are immense quantities of gray limestone rock, suitable for building purposes.
The first white person who located himself in Burlington, appears to have been Samuel S. White, a native of Ohio, who built a cabin here, in 1832, close to the river at the foot of the upper bluff. The United States, according to the treaty with the Indians, not being then entitled to the lands west of the Mississippi, the dragoons from Fort Armstrong came down, burnt White out, and drove him over to the Illinois side of the river. He remained on Honey Creek till the 1st of the next June, when, the Indian title being extinguished, he returned and rebuilt his cabin near its former site.
Mr. White was soon afterward joined by Amzi Doolittle, and in 1834, they laid out the first part of the town on the public lands. The survey of White and Doolittle was made by Benjamin Tucker and Dr. Win. R. Ross. Their bounds extended down to Hawkeye Creek. White and Doolittle afterward sold out all their lands and removed. The first addition to this tract was made by Judge David Rorer, a native of Virginia, in April, 1836, who had emigrated the month previous. In July of this year, he built the first brick building ever erected in Iowa. Judge R. laid the first brick with his own hands. This building stood on what is now lot 438, the next corner north
The town was named by John Gray, a native of
Burlington
, Vermont, and brother-in-law to White, the first settler. The Flint Hills were called by the Indians
Shokokon
, a word in their language signifying “flint hills;” these bluffs are generally about 150 feet above the river. Burlington became the county seat of Des Moines in 1834, under the jurisdiction of Michigan. In 1836 it was made the seat of government of Wisconsin Territory, and in the fall of 1837, the legislature of that territory first met at Burlington. When Iowa Territory was formed in 1838, Burlington became the seat of government. The building in which the legislative assembly first met stood on the river bank, just north of Columbia-street. It was burnt down soon afterward. At the first court held in Burlington, three divorces were granted, one conviction for assault and battery, and one fine for contempt of court. The record does not show the grounds of contempt, but from other sources we learn it was a rencounter in open court, in which the tables of the judges, being dry goods boxes and barrels with planks laid across, were overturned. The hero of the occasion was afterward taken prisoner in the Santa Fe expedition from Texas.
Judge Rorer's House.
The first brick building erected in Iowa.
Dr. Ross and Maj. Jeremiah Smith, who came to Burlington in 1833, were the first merchants. The first church (the Methodist Old Zion) was erected the same year, and is believed to have been the first house of worship erected in Iowa. In this venerable structure, which is still standing, the legislative body have met and courts have been held. The “Iowa Territorial Gazette,” the first newspaper, was issued in the summer of 1837, by James Clarke, from Pennsylvania, who was subsequently governor of the territory. The second paper was the “Iowa Patriot,” afterward the “Hawkeye,” by James G. Edwards, of Boston. The
Iowa Historical and Geological Society
was organized in 1843, and is the oldest literary society in the state.
The following inscriptions are from monuments in the Aspen Grove Cemetery, at the N.W. border of the city:
Here lie the mortal remains of
Jas. Clarke,
founder of the first Newspaper in Burlington, Member of the first Constitutional Convention, Secretary and Governor of the Territory of Iowa. Born July 5, 1812; died July 28, 1850
My Husband and our Father,
Abner Leonard,
minister of the Gospel, born Dec. 13, 1787, in Washington Co., Pa.; died Oct. 30, 1856.
Now with my Savior, Brother, Friend,
A blest Eternity I'll spend,
Triumphant in his grace.
In memory of
Rev. Horace Hutchinson,
late Pastor of the Congregational Church, of Burlington. He was born at Sutton, Mass., Aug. 10, 1817. Graduated at Amherst College, 1839, and at Andover Theological Seminary in 1843. He died March 7, 1846.
Sacred to the memory of
Rev. Samuel Payne,
Missionary, native of New Jersey, who departed this life, Jan. 8, 1845, aged 38 years, 6 mo. and 17 days. Blessed are the dead which die in the Lord from henceforth: yea saith the spirit, that they may rest from their labors; and their works do follow them. Rev. xiv, 13.
In memory of
Rev. Thomas Schultz,
German Missionary of the Methodist Church; born July 11, 1821; died March 18, 1848. *Christus ist mein Leben und sterben ist mein Gewin.
In memory of
Rev. William Hemminghaus,
German Missionary of the M.E. Church; born Jan. 26, 1808; died Jan. 24, 1848.
We ich bin da soll mein, diener auch sein.
Where I am, there shalt be my servant. Jan. 12, 1826.
East view of Keokuk.
The view shows the appearance of Keokuk, as seen from tho hights above the Ferry landing, on the Illinois side of the Mississippi. The Keokuk, Fort Des Moines and Minnesota Railroad is on the extreme left; the Keokuk, Mount Pleasant and Muscatine Railroad on the right.
Keokuk,
and semi-capital of Lee county, is a short distance above the confluence of the Des Moines with the Mississippi, on the west side of the Mississippi, 200 miles above St. Louis, 1,400 above New Orleans, and about 150 from Des Moines, the capital. It is at the S.E. corner of the state, at the foot of the “Lower Rapids,” and being the only city of Iowa having uninterrupted communication with all the great tributaries of the “Father of Waters,” it has not inaptly been called the
“Gate City
” of Iowa. The site of Keokuk is remarkably fine. It covers the top and slopes of a large bluff, partially around which the Mississippi bends with a graceful curve, commanding a fine prospect to the south and north. The city standsRapids
, 12 miles in extent, falling, in that distance, 24½ feet, making it difficult for the larger class of steamboats to pass. The city contains several splendid public buildings, the medical department of the State University, hospital, some eight or nine churches, and about 13,000 inhabitants.
The plat of the village of Keokuk was laid out in the spring of 1837, and in the ensuing June a public sale of town lots was held, and attended by a very large crowd. One boat was chartered in St. Louis, and numbers came up on other boats. Only two or three lots, the south-west corner of Mainstreet and the levee, and one or two others lying contiguous, were sold. The corner lot went for $1,500, and a New York company still hold the deed of trust on it to secure the payment.
In 1840, the main portion of Keokuk was a dense forest, and where Mainstreet now is, were thick timber and underbrush. It was so swampy and rough between Third and Fourth-streets, as to be rather dangerous riding on horseback after a heavy rain. About a dozen cabins comprised all the improvements. In the spring of 1847, a census of the place gave a population of 620. Owing to the unsettled state of the titles, but little progress was made till 1849. From that time until the autumn of 1857 it had a rapid growth.
Keokuk derived its name from Keokuk (
the Watchful Fox
), a chieftain of the Sac tribe, distinguished for his friendship to the Americans during the Black Hawk war. He often lost his popularity with his tribe by his efforts to keep them at peace with the United States, and nothing but his powerful eloquence and tact sustained him. He was once deposed by his tribe, and a young chief elected in his place. He, however, soon attained his former position. Keokuk was born about the year 1780. He was not a hereditary chief, but raised himself to that dignity by the force of talent and enterprise. He was a man of extraordinary eloquence; fertile in resources on the field of battle; possessed of desperate bravery; and never at a loss in any emergency. He had six wives, was fond of display, and on his visits of state to other tribes, moved, it is supposed, in more savage magnificence than any other chief on the continent. He was a noble looking man, about five feet ten inches in hight, portly, and over 200 pounds in weight. He had an eagle eye, a dignified bearing, and a manly, intelligent expression of countenance, and always painted and dressed in the Indian costume. He supplanted Black Hawk as chieftain of the Sacs and Foxes. He died in Missouri a few years since, and was succeeded in the chieftainship by his son.
The Des Moines River, which terminates at Keokuk, is one of the noblest of streams. Keokuk is the principal port of its valley, in which half the population and agricultural wealth of the state are concentrated. On the banks of the Des Moines stood the village of the celebrated chief
Black Hawk
, who there breathed his last, Oct. 3, 1840. He was buried near the banks of the river, in a sitting posture, as is customary with his tribe. His hands grasped his cane, and his body was surrounded by stakes, which united at the top.
Iowa is noted for the extent and magnificence of her prairies. These are of great advantage to the rapid and easy settlement of a country. When,
Prairie Scenery.
The wonderful fertility of the prairies is accounted for by the fact that we have a soil “which for thousands of years has been bearing annual crops of grass, the ashes or decayed stems of which have been all that time adding to the original fertility
79
A distinguished English chemist analyzed some of the prairie soils of the west “His analysis, which was of the most scrutinizing character, bears out completely the high character for fertility which practice and experience had already proved these soils to possess. The most noticeable feature in the analysis is the very large quantity of nitrogen which each of the soils contains, nearly twice as much as the most fertile soils of Britain. In each case, taking the soil at an average depth of ten inches, an acre of these prairies will contain upward of three tuns of nitrogen, and as a heavy crop of wheat with its straw contains about fifty-two pounds of nitrogen, there is thus a natural store of ammonia in this soil sufficient for more than a hundred wheat crops. In Dr. Voelcker's words, ‘It is this large amount of nitrogen, and the beautiful state of division, that impart a peculiar character to these soils, and distinguish them so favorably. They are soils upon which I imagine flax could be grown in perfection, supposing the climate to be otherwise favorable. I have never before analyzed soils which contained so much nitrogen, nor do I find any record of soils richer in nitrogen than these.’”
“The novelty of the prairie country is striking, and never fails to cause an exclamation of surprise from those Who have lived amid the forests of Ohio and Kentucky, or along the wooded shores of the Atlantic, or in sight of the rocky barriers of the Allegheny ridge. The extent of the prospect is exhilarating. The outline of the landscape is undulating and graceful. The verdure and the flowers are beautiful; and the absence of shade, and consequent appearance of a profusion of light, produces a gayety which animates every beholder.
These plains, although preserving a general level in respect to the whole country, are yet, in themselves,
not flat
, but exhibit a gracefully waving surface, swelling and sinking with easy, graceful slopes, and full, rounded outlines, equally avoiding the unmeaning horizontal surface, and the interruption of abrupt or angular elevations.
The attraction of the prairie consists in its extent, its carpet of verdure and flowers, its undulating surface, its groves, and the fringe of timber by which it is surrounded. Of all these, the latter is the most expressive feature. It is that which gives character to the landscape, which imparts the shape, and marks the boundary of the plain. If the prairie be small, its greatest beauty consists in the vicinity of the surrounding margin of woodland, which resembles the shore of a lake indented with deep vistas, like bays and inlets, and throwing out long points, like capes and headlands.
In the spring of the year, when the young grass has just covered the ground with a carpet of delicate green, and especially if the sun is rising from behind a distant swell of the plain and glittering upon the dewdrops, no scene can be more lovely to the eye. The groves, or clusters of timber, are particularly attractive at this season of the year. The rich undergrowth is in full bloom. The rosewood, dogwood, crab-apple, wild plum, the cherry, and the wild rose are all abundant, and in many any portions of the state the grape-vine abounds. The variety of wild fruit and flowering shrubs is so great, and such the profusion of the blossoms with which they are bowed down, that the eye is regaled almost to satiety.
The gayety of the prairie, its embellishments, and the absence of the gloom and savage wildness of the forest, all contribute to dispel the feeling of loneliness which usually creeps over the mind of the solitary traveler in the wilderness. Though
In the summer, the prairie is covered with long, coarse grass, which soon assumes a golden hue, and waves in the wind like a fully ripe harvest. The prairie-grass never attains its highest growth in the richest soil; but in low, wet, or marshy land, where the substratum of clay lies near the surface, the center or main stem of the grass—that which bears the seed—shoots up to the hight of eight and ten feet, throwing out long, coarse leaves or blades. But on the rich, undulating prairies, the grass is finer, with less of stalk and a greater profusion of leaves. The roots spread and interweave, forming a compact, even sod, and the blades expand into a close, thick grass, which is seldom more than eighteen inches high, until late in the season, when the seed-bearing stem shoots up. The first coat is mingled with small flowers—the violet, the bloom of the wild strawberry, and various others, of the most minute and delicate texture. As the grass increases in hight, these smaller flowers disappear, and others, taller and more gaudy, display their brilliant colors upon the green surface; and still later, a larger and coarser succession arises with the rising tide of verdure. It is impossible to conceive a more infinite diversity, or a richer profusion of hues, ‘from grave to gay,’ than graces the beautiful carpet of green throughout the entire season of summer.”
“The autumnal months, in Iowa, are almost invariably clear, warm, and dry. The immense mass of vegetation with which this fertile prairie soil loads itself during the summer is suddenly withered, and the whole earth is covered with combustible materials. This especially true of those portions where grass grows from two to ten feet high, and is exposed to sun and wind, becoming thoroughly dried. A single spark of fire, falling upon the prairie at such a time, instantly kindles a blaze that spreads on every side, and continues its destructive course as long as, it finds fuel. These fires sweep along with great power and rapidity, and frequently extend across a wide prairie and advance in a long line. No sight can be more sublime than a stream of fire, beheld at night, several miles in breadth, advancing across the plains, leaving behind it a background of dense black smoke, throwing before it a vivid glare, which lights up the whole landscape for miles with the brilliancy of noonday. The progress of the fire is so slow, and the heat so intense, that every combustible in its course is consumed. The roots of the prairie-grass, and several species of flowers, however, by some peculiar adaptation of nature, are spared.”
The winters on the prairie are often terrible. Exposed to the full sweep of the icy winds that come rushing down from the Rocky Mountains, without a single obstruction, the unlucky traveler that is caught, unprotected by sufficient clothing, is in imminent danger of perishing before the icy blast. December and January. of the winter of 1856-7, were unprecedentedly stormy and cold in western Iowa A writer for one of the public prints, who passed that winter on the western frontier of this state, gives this vivid picture of the sufferings of the frontier settlers, his communication being dated at “Jefferson's Grove, fifty miles from a postoffice.”
“Once the mercury has been 30 deg. below zero, twice 24 deg., several times 16 deg., and more than seven eighths of the time at some point below zero. Only two days in the whole two months has it been above the freezing point.
We have had four fierce snow storms, in which one could not see an object four rods distant, and I doubt if such storms can be excelled in fury in any of the hyperborean regions. Everybody was compelled to keep within doors; cattle were driven before the driving snow until they found refuge in the groves; and most of the houses, within doors, were thoroughly sifted with snow. But I will relate a few instances of frontier hardships.
Forty miles above here, at the very margin of the settlement, a family was caught by the first snow storm, almost without firewood and food. In the morning the husband made a fire, and leaving to seek for assistance from his nearest neighbors, distant six miles, directed his family to make
one more fire
, and then retire to bed, and there remain until he returned; they did so. After excessive hardships, he
Last summer five families ventured across a fifty mile prairie, uninhabited, of course, and commenced making farms on a small stream, very sparsely timbered, called Boyer River. The early frosts nipped their late corn, and left them without food; for, on the extreme frontier, the pioneers sometimes live a whole winter without going to mill—beating their corn into hominy, soaking it in weak ash ley, and then boiling it soft, parching it, etc. Thus they manage, with good stomachs, great fortitude, and the help of wild game, to hold soul and body together. Seven of the men of this little detached settlement, started in the fall for Fort Des Moines, distant one hundred and fifty miles, to procure provisions and other necessaries. When on their return, fifty miles from Fort Des Moines, on the North Koon River, they were overtaken by the severe snow storm that commenced on the first day of December, and raged for forty-eight hours. They were then compelled to halt and construct sleds. But before leaving the settlement on Koon River, a rain fell on the deep snow, and freezing suddenly, formed so hard a crust that it was impossible to drive cattle out of the beaten track. But men could run on the crust with impunity. Their families, yet distant from them 100 miles, across a trackless prairie, they supposed must now be destitute of all provisions, save a few milch cows and young cattle, and with only one or two men to provide wood. They must be succored at all hazards. Constructing hand-sleds, and loading them with flour and other provisions, they determined to brave the terrible perils of a desert prairie. They also carried along some shovels, charcoal, a tent-cloth and blankets. They hoped to reach their homes on the third night; but on the second day of their departure they were met by a furious snow storm, driving full in their faces. It was utterly impossible to travel, so with their shovels they constructed a snow hut, and passed one long day and night, suffering severely from the intense cold. On the fourth day, in the afternoon, one of the company, a one-armed man, gave out, so they were compelled to halt. Thinking they were about twelve miles from their settlement, one of the company resolved to go on in and procure assistance and refreshments, and meet his comrades next day; but, alas! poor brave man, that night he perished alone on the prairie, overcome by fatigue and cold. The remainder of the company got in the next day (the fifth day); the one-armed man being much injured by the frost. How those poor families, exiled fifty miles from society, will ever manage to survive the rigors of the winter, we can only conjecture.”
Des Moines
, which became in 1855 the capital of Iowa, is at the head of steamboat navigation on Des Moines River, in the geographical center of the state, about 170 miles west of Davenport, and 140 eastward of Council Bluffs. The line of the Mississippi and Missouri Railroad passes through the city, as also will several others in contemplation. The city is situated at the confluence of Raccoon River with the Des Moines, the two streams uniting near the corporation limits. The scenery at this point is beautiful: a smooth valley, rising on all sides, by successive benches, back to the gently sloping hills., which finally attain a hight of about 200 feet.
This spot was the council ground of the Indians. It was afterward the site of Fort Des Moines, selected by the officers of the U. S. army, on which barracks and defenses were erected. Most of the town is laid out with wide streets. On the elevations are beautiful building sites, commanding views of all the central town, of both rivers, and of the faces of most of the other hills, with their residences. On the summit of one of the hills is the present state house, and the square set apart for the permanent capitol. Some 6 or 7 churches are already erected, and 3 newspapers are printed Population about 5,000.
Muscatine,
the county seat of Muscatine county, is situated 100 miles above Keokuk, and 32 below Davenport. Commencing at the Upper Rapids, the Mississippi runs in a westerly direction until it strikes a series of rocky bluffs, by which its course is turned due south. At this bend, and on the summit of the bluffs, is situated the city of Muscatine, which is regularly laid out, with fine, wide streets, having several elegant buildings. It is a shipping point for a very great amount of produce raised in the adjoining counties. When the various railroads are completed which are to run in various directions from this point, Muscatine will have added to her natural advantages fine facilities for communication with every part of the country Muscatine was first settled by the whites in 1836, previous to which time it was an Indian trading post, known by the name of
Manatheka.
Afterward it was called Bloomington. Population about 7,000.
Western view of Muscatine.
Council Bluffs City
, the county seat of Pottawatomie county, is near the geographical center of the United States, on the east side of the Missouri River, about 140 miles westward of Des Moines, the capital of the state nearly opposite Omaha City, the capital of Nebraska, about 300 miles above Leavenworth City, and 685 above St. Louis. It is built on a beautiful extended plain. It has a number of fine stores, and many elegant private buildings. This is a flourishing place, and here a portion of the emigrant for the far west procure their outfits. It was for a long time an important point in overland travel to California, being the last civilized settlement before entering the Indian country. Four important railroads from the east are projected directly to this place, some of which are fast progressing to completion. The first one finished will be the Mississippi and Missouri which, commencing at Davenport, already extends to beyond Iowa City Population about 5,000.
A gentleman, who was at Council Bluffs in 1860, gives these valuabe items upon the history of the town, and the condition and resources of the country:
The growth of Council Bluffs has been rapid within the last six years, and it still retains, as it is likely to retain, the position of the most important city of western Iowa, This point was formerly known as
Kanesville
, and was for about“Holy Valley,”
at the Great Salt Lake.
As the Mormons left, other settlers came in. The name was changed to Council Bluffs. This cognomen had been given by Lewis and Clarke, a long time before, to a point on the Missouri, several miles above the present town. It had become a historical name, and it was wise in the new-comers to appropriate it to their use. So much for the early history of this place. The Mormon town was built in a very pleasant valley, that opens upon the great Missouri bottom from the north-east. It is four miles from the base of the hills, which are several hundred feet high, and very abrupt, to the river. The log houses left by the Mormons were used by the early settlers, and many of them are yet standing.
But it soon became manifest that the business part of the future city must be on the great plain or bottom, and out of the bluffs. And so the result has shown. The best part of the city is on the plain, though the finest places for residences are on the delightful slopes and hillsides of the valleys, which now constitute the upper town.
The view from the high bluffs back of the city is very commanding and beautiful. From the top of one of these hills one can see six rising cities in the far distance— Omaha, Saratoga, Florence, Bellevue, St. Marys, and Pacific City. At the foot of these bluffs the bottom extends four miles to the west, to Omaha, and to the south and north as far as the eye can reach. The Bottoms are from four ten miles in width, and are mostly dry and most fertile lands. Strips of timber abound. The bluffs facing the bottom are generally naked, and very abrupt. The eastern man will again and again wonder how the earth can be made to remain in such fantastic and sharply pointed shapes for centuries, as he finds them here. Back of the first range of bluffs, the country is covered with timber for some miles, when the rolling and open prairie becomes the leading feature for hundreds of miles, and indeed across the state of Iowa to the Mississippi River.
Council Bluffs claims a population of 5,000, but the usual deduction must be made. It has passed through the usual process of rapid and extended inflation, and consequent collapse and almost suspension of vitality. The paper part of the city embraces territory enough for a quarter of a million of people. The extensive and rich bottoms, instead of being cultivated as farms, are all staked off into city lots; and in years past, large numbers of them were sold to speculators. So crazy did these people become, that one man bought a quarter section of this bottom land, two miles from the present town, and gave his notes for
sixty thousand dollars
for the same. He collapsed, of course, as the crash of 1857 brought his air castle to the ground; and he can not now sell his land for twenty dollars per acre. Here is another large four story monument of folly in the shape of a brick hotel, some half a mile out from the present business part of the city. A man by the name of Andrews had sold out shares in Florence for large sums. He had realized about thirty thousand dollars in hard cash. He became giddy, bought a tract adjoining Council Bluffs, laid it off into city lots; and, to show his faith and to sell his lots, he erected this large and costly hotel. But it was never completed. The crash also caught him unprepared, and he went under, with thousands of others. His hotel is roofed, but not finished; and it looks the wreck it is, of the vast inflation which culminated and exploded three years ago.
Still there are many evidences of substantial prosperity in Council Bluffs. Several brick blocks of stores would do credit to older towns, and they are well filled with stocks of goods, and held by substantial, intelligent business men. The business portion is mainly on the plain, and is extending from the base of the bluffs toward the river. The present steamboat landing is about four miles from the town, and directly south of it. Council Bluffs has the Kanesville land office where a large portion of the lands of western Iowa has been sold.
Iowa City,
the first capital of the state of Iowa, is on the left bank of Iowa River, in Johnson county, 55 miles from Davenport, by the Mississippi and Missouri Railroad in the midst of one of the most beautiful and thriving of agricultural regions. Population about 7,000.
State University Iowa City.
The large building on the right was originally the first State Capitol.
Annexed we present a sketch from a correspondent, giving a history of the city and of the University situated in it, which gives promise of great usefulness to the future of Iowa:
In 1838, Congress passed an act to divide the Territory of Wisconsin, and form the Territory of Iowa out of that part which lay to the west of the Mississippi River. The governor of the new territory under the or ganic act, fixed the seat of government at Burlington. On the 21st of January following, the territorial legislature appointed commissioners to locate the seat of government and superintend the erection of public buildings. These commissioners selected the site now occupied by Iowa City, on the east bank of the Iowa River, about 50 miles west of the Mississippi River. Congress had appropriated $20,000 for the erection of the capitol, and subsequently granted the section of land on which the capitol was to be erected. The corner stone of the building was laid on the 4th of July, 1839. The proceeds of the sale of lots on the section granted by congress, defrayed the main part of the expense of the erection. The first session of the legislature was held in Iowa City, in December, 1841, in a temporary building the capitol not being yet finished. The building was first occupied by the legislature in 1844.
The location of the capital soon collected a considerable population in Iowa City. When the city was first laid out, there was but one log cabin on the ground. At the end of a single year, the number of inhabitants was seven hundred, and it continued steadily to increase. In 1852, the population was 3,500. The opening of the Mississippi and Missouri Railroad, from Davenport as far as Iowa City, in 1854, and the rush of emigration into the state, gave a new impetus to the city.
In 1857 the population had increased to 8,000, and all kinds of business were exeeedlngly active and profitable. But the monetary crisis of 1857 put a stop to its prosperity, and since that time has diminished rather than increased, and in 1860 was only about 7,000. In 1856, the capital was removed from Iowa City to Des Moines, and permanently fixed there by the new constitution of the state, adopted in January, 1860.
When the seat of government was removed to Des Moines, the state house in Iowa City was given by the legislature to the State University, together with the 10 acres of land on which it stands. The State University has for its foundation sections of land, granted by congress for the endowment of a university. In 1847, the state legislature passed a law organizing the University, and appointing trustees to manage its concerns, put the ifistitution did not go into operation till 1955. At that time a chancellor and several professors were appointed, and the University was opened in a building hired by the trustees for that purpose. The year following a part of the state house was occupied by the prepatratory department, and as lecture rooms for the professors. The building however, was in a bad condition, and required fitting up in order to suit the purposes of an institution of learning. The city was full of people, and accommodations for students could not be easily procured, and in 1857, the pecuniary embarrassments of the country preventing the collection of the interest on the funds, the trustees saw fit to close the University for a time—this took place in the summer of 1858. By the new constitution of the state, adopted in 1857, a board of education was created, whose duty it was to take the entire charge of the educational institutions of the state. This board at their. first meeting, in December, 1858, passed a law reorganizing the University, appointing a new board of trustees, with the understanding that the institution should be reopened as early as practicable. In October, 1859, they appointed the Rev. Silas Totten, D.D., L.L.D., president of the University, and in June following, proceeded to fill the professorships of mathematics, languages, philosophy and chemistry, and natural history. On the 19th of October, the University was reopened under the new organization.
In the session of 1858, the legislature granted $13,000 to the University, for repairs on the state house, and for the erection of another building for the residence of students. A new roof was put upon the state house, and the other building begun and the exterior completed.
A further grant of $10,000 was made in 1860, $5,000 to be expended on the old building and in the purchase of philosophical and chemical apparatus, and the remainder upon the new building. The repairs and alterations of the state house have been completed, and it is now both an elegant and commodious building for the purposes of a university. It is built of cream colored limestone, and is 120 feet long by 60 broad, and two stories high, with a basement. The walls are of massive cut stone, and the rooms are spacious and lofty. The original cost of the building was $160,000. It contains the chapel, library, cabinet, five lecture rooms, a room occupied by the State Historical Society, and a spacious entrance hall, surmounted by a dome. The other building is of pressed brick, 105 feet by 45, three stories high, and when finished will accommodate about 100 students. The buildings are situated on a ridge of land, the highest in the city, in the middle of a park of ten acres, which contains many fine old oak trees in a very flourishing condition. The site is beautiful, overlooking the valley of the Iowa River on the west and the city on the east, while from the top of the dome may be seen a vast extent of rolling country, prairie and woodland, spread out on every side.
The University has now all the requisites for a first class institution of learning It has a choice library of 1,500 volumes, quite an extensive mineralogical cabinet, and a very complete philosophical and chemical apparatus. Provision has been made for the increase of the library and cabinet.
Fort Dodge
, the county seat of Webster county, is beautifully situated on a platform of prairie land, on the east side of Des Moines River, on the line of the Dubuque and Pacific Railroad. Building was commenced here in
Sioux City
, Woodbury county, a new settlement at the confluence of the Big Sioux River, about 230 miles above Council Bluffs, is well situated on a high bank, and is the last place of importance on the Missouri.
Fort Madison
, the county seat of Lee county, is a flourishing town, 22 miles above Keokuk, 10 from Nauvoo, and 22 below Burlington. It is finely situated, being on ground rising gradually from the river, and at the foot of a somewhat sandy bluff. It is a place of considerable manufactures, commerce and wealth. The exports of grain, pork and lumber are large. It contains the state prison, 7 churches, and 3,500 inhabitants. A fortification was built here in 1808, as a defense against the Indians, who obliged the garrison to abandon it. In the war of 1812, the fort was twice attacked by the Indians. In November, 1813, it was evacuated and the buildings burnt, as the contractor failed to furnish the garrison with provisions.
Grinnell
is in Powesheik county, 115 miles from Davenport, by the Mississippi and Missouri Railroad, is a fine town, and noted as the seat of a theological university.
There are within the state many small, city-like towns, as
Keosanqua
, in Van Buren county;
Lyons
in Clinton;
Cedar Rapids
, in Black Hawk;
Oskaloosa
, in Mahaska, etc.
MISCELLANIES.
UNITED STATES LAND SYSTEM.
All the lands belonging to the United States, within the new states and territories are surveyed and sold under one general system, which, from its simplicity, has been of incalculable benefit in the settlement of the west. This admirable system of surveys of lands by
townships
and
ranges
, was first adopted by Oliver Phelps, an extensive landholder in Genesee county, N.Y., who opened a land office at Canandaigua in 1789. IIis was the model which was adopted for surveying all the new lands in the United States. Col. Jared Mansfield, appointed surveyor general of the United States for the North-western Territory, by Jefferson, in 1802, applied the system the government lands, and greatly improved it. In brief it is this:
“Meridian
lines are established and surveyed in a line due north from some given point—generally from some important water-course. These are intersected at right angles with a
base
line. On the meridians the “townships” are numbered north and south from the
base
lines; and, on the
base
lines,
“ranges
” east or west of the meridian Township lines are then run, at a distance of six miles, parallel to the meridian and base lines. Each township contains an area of 36 square miles; each square mile is termed a section, and contains 640 acres. The section are numbered from 1 to 36, beginning at the north-east corner of the township, as the ar nexed diagram illustrates.
When surveyed, the lands are offered for sale at public auction, but can not be disposed of at a less price than one dollar and twenty-five cents per acre. That portion not sold at public auction is subject to private entry at any time, for the above price, payable in cash at the time of entry.
Pre-emption rights give the improver or possessor the privilege of purchasing at the minimum price.”
By a wise provision of the law of the United States, every 16th section in each township is appropriated for the support of public schools. This is one thirty sixth of all the public lands, and in a state of 36,000 square miles would give one thousand to this object.
Previous to the adoption of this system of surveying the public-lands, great confusion existed for the want of a general, uniform plan, and in consequence titles often conflicted with each other, and, in many cases, several grants covered the same premises, leading very frequently to litigation most perplexing and almost interminable. Now, the precise boundaries of any piece of land can be given in a very few lines; and, in a moment, found on the maps in the government land offices, or, if the land has been sold to individuals, in the recorder's office in the county in which it may be situated, and where it is entered for taxation. The land itself can be easily found by the permanent corner posts at each corner of the sections.
The form of description of government lands is thus shown by this example: “North-East Quarter of Section No. 23; in Township No. 26 of Range No. 4 West of Meridian Line, in White Co., Ind., and containing 160 acres.” It is usual to abridge such descriptions, thus: “N.E. ¼ S. 23, T. 26, R. 4 W., in White Co., Ind., & cont'g 160 A.”
Arms of Missouri.
Motto
—
Salus populi suprema lex esto
—Let the property of the people, be the supreme law.
Missouri
was originally included in the limits of Louisiana, purchased of the French government in 1803. The first Europeans who visited any part of its territory appear to have been Marquette and Joliet, the French missionaries from Canada, who sailed down the Mississippi in 1673. This river was more fully explored by La Salle, in 1682, who declared all the region between the Illinois country and the Gulf of Mexico to be an appendage of France. From this period, settlements began to be made in the valley of the Mississippi, and the territory was protected from Spanish invasion by a chain of fortifications, extending from the lakes to the gulf. Among these was Fort Orleans, built in 1719, near mouth of the Osage, not far from site of Jefferson City.
The settlements in the Mississippi valley were made advancing from its northern and southern extremities into the interior. Missouri being in the central part, its progress was slow. Its lead mines were worked as early as 1720. St. Genevieve, the oldest town, was founded in 1755; St. Louis in 1764: other settlements followed in quick succession. During the progress of the contest between France and Great Britain, many of the Canadian French emigrated by way of the lakes, and going southward, located themselves in both Upper and Lower Louisiana. These emigrants gave the first important impulse to the colonization of Missouri.
After the conquest of Canada, in 1763, the jurisdiction of the Mississippi passed from France to Great Britain and Spain, the Mississippi River being the dividing line between the possessions of the two latter powers. The whole population of Spanish Louisiana, north and south, at the time of the public transfer, in 1769, is stated to have been 18,840 persons, of whom 5,556 were whites, and the remainder negroes. A river trade had sprung up between
In 1763, Mr. Laclede, the head of a mercantile company, who had obtained a monopoly of the Indian and fur trade on the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers, left New Orleans on an expedition to form establishments, and open a commerce with the natives. Having left his stores at Fort Chartres, on the Kaskaskias, Laclede proceeded up the river to the bluff, where St. Louis now stands. Pleased with the situation, he determined to make it the central place of the company's operations. Laclede was accompanied by Auguste and Pierre Choteau, two young Creoles of New Orleans, of high respectability and intelligence. In 1764, Auguste, the elder of the two brothers, commenced the first buildings in St. Louis. These brothers became at this place the heads of numerous families, whose name became a passport that commanded safety and hospitality among the Indian nations in the United States, north and west.
At the commencement of the American revolution, in 1775, St. Louis, originally a depot for the fur trade, had increased to a population of about 800, and St. Genevieve to about half that number. In 1780, a body of English and Indians, 1,540 strong, from Michillimackinac and the southern extremity of Lake Michigan, attacked St. Louis. During the siege, which lasted about a week, some sixty persons were killed in the town and vicinity. While the fate of the garrison remained in great uncertainty, the timely arrival of Gen. Clarke, from Kentucky, turned the tide of fortune against the enemy. The general peace of 1783, put an end to hostilities. Spain retained her previous possessions, Great Britain resigned East Louisiana, called also the “Illinois Country,” to the United States, retaining only Canada and other possessions at the north.
On the restoration of peace, the settlers in the western part of the United States, to some extent, emigrated and built their cabins on the western or Spanish side of the Mississippi. Difficulties, as might have been expected, soon arose between Spain and the United States. A dispute relative to the navigation of the Mississippi occurred in 1795, when, by treaty, Spain granted to the United States free navigation of that river. But Spain did not act up to the spirit of her agreement, and threw obstacles in the way of the Americans navigating that stream. An open warfare seems to have been only prevented by the cession of Louisiana to France, in 1801, who transferred it to the United States in 1803, being purchased of the French government for fifteen millions of dollars.
The new purchase was immediately divided into the “Territory of Orleans” (since the state of Louisiana), and the “District of Louisiana,” erected in 1805 into a territorial government, administered by a governor and judges, under the title of “Territory of Louisiana,” having four districts, St. Charles, St. Louis, Cape Girardeau, New Madrid and Arkansas. When the present state of Louisiana came into the Union, in 1812, the name of this territory was changed to “Missouri Territory.” The territory extended from latitude
The limits of the Missouri Territory, on the west, were gradually extended by treaties with the Indians. “People from the western states began to move in from the time of the purchase, so that in 1810, the population numbered 20,845, of whom all, but about 1,500 belonging to Arkansas, were settled within the present limits of Missouri. The French settlements were now overrun by Americans, from Kentucky, Tennessee, Ohio, etc., and American habits, usages, laws, and institutions soon became prevalent. The original settlers were quickly merged and almost lost among the later and more active population, until at length the whole became a homogeneous people. Immigration was so rapid, that in 1817, the territory contained 60,000 souls. In 1817, application was made by the assembly to congress, for authority to frame a state constitution, preliminary to admission into the Union. A fierce and stormy debate arose at once on the subject in congress. A powerful party demanded that the new state should exclude slavery by their constitution. The discussion raged for two years, threatening to tear the Union asunder; at length, however, the debate was stopped by the passage of the compromise resolutions of Mr. Clay, by which it was agreed that the institution of slavery should be recognized in Missouri, but in no other new state north of latitude 36° 30′. The state constitution, somewhat modified since its adoption, was framed by a convention of forty delegates, which met at St. Louis, on the 12th of June, 1820, and was adopted on the 19th July following. The new state was found, by a census taken the same year, to contain a population of 66,586, of whom 10,222 were slaves.”
* Fisher's Gazetteer of the United States.
The north-western boundary of the Missouri was enlarged in the session of congress of 1836–7, by the addition of a wedge-shaped piece of territory, measuring on the east side about 104 miles long, north and south, and about 60 miles wide on the north end, and bounded on the west by the Missouri River. This territory is now comprised in the six counties of Platte, Buchanan, Andrew, Atchison, Nodaway, and Holt, and contains over three thousand square miles. Although this acquisition was in opposition to the terms of the Missouri Compromise, it appears to have been acquiesced in with little or no opposition from any source. It had its justification in a better and more natural boundary, the Missouri River: and the country being of remarkable fertility, became filled with a wealthy and thriving population.
Since the establishment of the state government, there has been to the present time a constant tide of emigration into Missouri, from the southern, western and northern states, and, to some extent, from Europe. Agriculture and commerce have flourished to a great extent. The manufacturing interests are considerable, and its extraordinary mineral wealth, is beginning to be appreciated. Many of the Mormons, previous to their location at Nauvoo, emigrated to the north-western section of the state, where they caused much difficulty, in Ray county, in which some were killed and wounded. In 1838, the governor of the state issued an order, or proclamation, for the expulsion of the Mormons. After the repeal of the “Missouri Compromise,”
Missouri is bounded N. by Iowa, E. by the Mississippi River, S. by Arkansas, and W. by Kansas, Nebraska, and the Indian territory. It is situated between 36° and 40° 36′ N. Lat., and between 89° and 95° 36′ W. Long. It is 287 miles long and 230 broad, containing upward of 65,000 square miles, nearly equaling in extent the six New England states together, and more than doubling them all in agricultural capacity. The surface of Missouri is quite varied. Alluvial, or bottom lands, are found on the margins of the rivers. In the interior, bottoms and barrens, naked hills and prairies, heavy forests and streams of water, may be often seen in one view. In the south-east part, near the Mississippi and south of Cape Girardeau, is an extensive marsh, reaching into Arkansas, and comprising an area nearly equal to the entire state of Connecticut. Back of this is a hilly country, rich in minerals, which extends to Osage River. One of the richest coal fields in the Union occupies the greater part of the state north of the Osage River, and extending nearly to the Iowa line. The coal is bituminous and much of it cannel. The great cannel coal bed in Calloway county, is the largest body of cannel coal known: in places it is 75 feet thick. On distillation, it yields excellent coke, and a gas that, being destitute of sulphur, burns with a bright and beautiful flame. The lead region is at an average distance of seventy miles from St. Louis, and covers an area of 3,000 square miles. While in Wisconsin the lead does not extend 100 feet in depth, the lead veins of Missouri extend, in places, more than 1,000 feet. The mineral region contains 216 localities of lead ore, 90 of iron, and 25 of copper. The state abounds in iron; in fact, no country in the world contains so much of this useful ore as Missouri; and her general mineral wealth is enormous, in coal, iron, copper, lead, etc. Minerals of the non-metallic kind are also abundant, limestone, sandstone, porphyries, gypsum, sienite, porcelain, pipe and variegated clays.
The country north of the Missouri, and that which adjoins Kansas, has been termed the garden of the west. In most places it has a beautiful, undulating surface, sometimes rising into picturesque hills, then stretching into a sea of prairie, interspersed with shady groves and streams of water.
Missouri possesses very great facilities for internal intercourse by water, having the navigation of the two greatest rivers in the United States, if not in the world. By means of the Mississippi River, forming her eastern boundary, she has commerce with the most northern territory of the Union, with the whole valley of the Ohio, some of the Atlantic states, and the Gulf of Mexico; by the Missouri, which passes through the central part of the state, she can extend her commercial intercourse to the Rocky Mountains. The climate is variable, in winter the streams are sometimes frozen so as to admit the passage of heavy loaded vehicles; the summers are very hot, but the air is dry and pure, and the climate may be classed among those most favorable to health. The soil of the state, speaking generally, is good and of great agricultural
Central part of the Levee, at St. Louis.
The view was taken from Bloody Island, near the Railroad Depot, on the Illinois side of the Mississippi, and shows the steamboats lying at the Levee, in the vicinity of the Custom House, and the Court House, the upper portion of which is seen in the distance. The river front here, for a long distance, is generally crowded with steamers, lying abreast of each other, in tiers of three and four deep, indicating the extraordinary commerce of the city.
St. Louis,
the commercial capital of Missouri, and of the great central valley of the Mississippi, is situated on the W. bank of the Mississippi, 18 miles below the junction of the Missouri. It is in 38° 37′ 28″ N. Lat., and 90° 15′ 16″ W. Long., about 1,200 miles above New Orleans, 705 from Cincinnati, 822 from St. Paul, 564 from Louisville, Ky., 180 above Cairo, and 125 from Jefferson City, the capital of the state. The compact part of the city stretches about three miles along the river, and two miles back. The site rises from the river into two limestone elevations, the first, twenty, and the second forty feet above the ordinary floods of the Mississippi. The ascent to the first is rather abrupt, the second rises more gradually, and spreads out into an extensive plain. The city is well laid out, the streets being for the most part 60 feet wide, and, with few exceptions cross each other at right angles. Front-street, which extends along the levee, is upward of 100 feet broad, built upon the side facing the river with a massive range of stone warehouses, which make an imposing appearance. The population of St. Louis
St. Louis is sometimes fancifully called the
“Mound City,”
from a great mound, at the base of which it was first settled, and which is said by the Indians to have been the burial place of their ancestors for centuries.
The natural advantages which St. Louis enjoys, as a commercial emporium, are probably equal to any inland port in the world. Situated midway between two oceans, and near the geographical center of the finest agricultural and mineral region of the globe, almost at the very focus toward which converge the Mississippi, the Missouri, the Ohio, and the Illinois Rivers, she seems destined to be the great receiving and distributing depot for a vast region of country. It is now, next to New Orleans, the principal port on the Mississippi, and among the western cities is the rival to Cincinnati in population and wealth. “In a circuit of less than 90 miles from the city, iron, coal, lead, and probably copper, are sufficiently abundant to supply the Union for indefinite ages, and of this region St. Louis is the only outlet. The manufactures of St. Louis embrace a great variety of products. Among the manufacturing establishments may be mentioned, extensive iron works, flouring mills, sugar refineries, manufactures of hemp, rope and bagging factories, tobacco factories, oil mills, etc. The city is supplied with water from the Mississippi, drawn up by two engines, each of about 350 horse power, and forced through a 20 inch pipe to the reservoir, located about one mile west, and capable of holding thirty-two millions of gallons.
Very few cities in the Union have improved more rapidly in the style of its public buildings, than St. Louis; among these is the magnificent court house, which occupies a square, presenting a front on four streets: it is constructed of limestone, and erected at an expense of upward of one million of dollars. The custom house, another noble building, is fire proof, constructed of Missouri marble. The Lindell House is one of the most extensive and beautiful of hotels. The Mercantile Library building is a fine structure, having one of the best halls in the western states, capable of seating 2,300 persons. The library connected with the institution consists of upward of 14,000 volumes. The Library Association, among the curiosities in their possession, have the original model of John Fitch's steam engine, made about the year 1795; it is some two feet high, with a copper boiler. They also have a marble slab, about seven feet square, from the ruins of ancient Ninevah, covered with a figure in bas-relief and interesting cuneiform inscriptions. The
St. Louis University
, under the direction of the Catholics, has a spacious building in the city, with 18 instructors, and about 300 students, and some 15,000 volumes in its libraries. This institution was founded, in 1829, by members of the Society of Jesus, and was incorporated by the legislature in 1832. In the museum connected with the University, is the dagger of Cortez, 14 inches long, the blade consisting of two divisions, with an apparatus and spring in the hilt for containing and conveying poison. The Washington University was founded in 1853. The city contains various other excellent literary institutions: among these are several medical colleges. There are also hospitals, dispensaries, and other charities, for the medical care of the destitute. Among the charitable institutions, the most conspicuous are the Protestant and Catholic Orphan Asylums—the first under the direction of Protestant ladies, and the latter of the Sisters of Charity. The total value of the taxable property of St. Louis, for 1860, was about 100 millions of dollars.
The subjoined sketch of the history of St. Louis, is extracted from the London edition of the work of Abbe Domenech,
* “Seven Years Residence in the Great Deserts of North America, by the Abbe Em Domenech, Apostolical Missionary, Canon of Montpellier, Member of the Pontificial Academy Tiberina, and of the Geographical and Ethnographical Societies of France, etc.:” in two volumes.
St. Louis, the Queen of the West, was French by birth; her cradle was suspended in the forest watered by the Mississippi; her childhood was tried by many privations; and her adolescence was reached amid the terrors inspired by the Indian's cry. Her youth, though more calm, was scarcely more happy. Abandoned by her guardian, the Lion of Castile, she was again claimed by her ancient mother; but only to be forsaken anew. She then passed under the protecting wing of the American eagle, and became the metropolis of the Empire of the Deserts.
South-eastern view of the Court House, St. Louis.
M. d'Abadie, civil and military director-general, and governor of Louisiana, conceded in 1762, to Messrs. Pierre Ligueste, Laclede, Antoine Maxan, and Company the monopoly of the fur trade with the Indians of Mississippi and Missouri. M. Laclede, a man of remarkable intelligence, of an enterprising character, and the principal chief of the company, immediately prepared an expedition, with a view of forming a large establishment in the north-west. On the 3d of August, 1763. he started from New Orleans, and on the 3d of November following, he reached St. Genevieve, situated sixty miles south of where St. Louis is actually built.
At that epoch the French colony, established sixty years before in Illinois, wa in a surprising state of prosperity. It had considerably augmented its importance since 1732, at which period France was beginning to realize her great conception of uniting Canada to Louisiana by an extensive line of military posts, that were
80
The Britannic frontiers, north, west, and south, were then surrounded by that French race, so antipathetic to the Saxon one. It enveloped them by its power and its immense territory, by an uinterrupted chain of fertile countries, which extend from Canada to the Gulf of Mexico, following the interminable and rich valley of the Mississippi, which winds round the English possessions like the coiling serpent whose innumerable folds entwined the Laocoon. Unhappily for France, the statesmen of her luxurious court were short-sighted in this matter; they did not know the value of our transatlantic dominions, nor forsee what the future might do for them. Occupied with miserable palace intrigues, they basely abandoned our finest colonies, and merely sought feebly to prolong their agony. Napoleon himself committed a great fault when he ceded Louisiana for fifteen millions. He thought that a bird in the hand was better than two in the bush; but what a bush he sold for such a sum! Louisiana, that of herself contains colossal wealth, did she not give birth to many powerful states by dismembering herself? Did she not draw toward Texas, Kansas, New Mexico, and California? When one thinks of this great and irreparable loss which Louis XV and Napoleon I caused France to suffer, one can not help sighing at the blindness of that fatal policy, which, for the sake of passing difficulties, from pusillanimous fear, or from the want of perfect knowledge of the resources and importance of the colonies, forgets the honor and interest of the empire it rules.
It was thus that in the time of M. Laclede, the Mississippi became the natural boundary of the French and English possessions; St. Genevieve was the only French settlement on the right bank of the river, all the others, being on the left, were made over to the English. After a short sojourn in that village, M. Laclede explored the country, and discovering, sixty miles more to the north, a table-land seventy-five feet above the Mississippi, and covered with forests and fertile ground, he took possession of it and laid the foundation of a town, which he named St. Louis, in the presence of the French officers of the Chartres and of two young Creoles, Messrs. Auguste and Pierre Chouteau. We had the satisfaction of seeing the latter in 1847, during the festival celebrated at St. Louis in honor of Laclede.
Scarcely was the rising colony established, which was augmented by French, Creole, and Illinois emigrants, who would not remain under the English dominion, when it was greatly alarmed by the arrival of 400 Indians, who, without being hostile, were nevertheless very troublesome, on account of their continual demands for provisions and the daily robberies they committed. M. Laclede made all possible haste to rescue his establishment from the peril that menaced it, and immediately acted in a manner that showed his tact and his profound knowledge of the Indian character. The chieftains having appeared in his presence, addressed him in these terms:
“We are deserving of pity, for we are like ducks and geese seeking clear water whereon to rest, as also to find an easy existence. We know of no better place than where we are. We therefore intend to build our wigwams around your village. We shall be your children, and you will be our father.”
Laclede put an end to the conversation by promising to give his answer the next day, which he did in the following manner:
“You told me yesterday that you were like ducks and geese that seek a fair country wherein to rest and live at ease. You told me that you were worthy of pity; that you had not found a more favorable spot to establish yourselves in than this one; that you would build your village around me, and that we could live together as friends. I shall now answer you as a kind father: and will tell you that, if you imitate the ducks and geese, you follow improvident guides; for, if they had any forethought, they would not establish
In the evening the entire tribe of the Missourians presented itself in a body before M. Laclede, and announced to him that its intention was to follow his advice; the chiefs then begged of him to have pity on the women and children, by giving them some provisions, and a little powder to the warriors. M. Laclede acceded liberally to their request, and sent them off next day well supplied and happy.
On the 17th of July, 1755, M. de St. Ange de Bellerive resigned the command of the frontiers to the English, and came to St. Louis with his troops and the civic officers. His arrival favored the definitive organization of the colony; St. Louis became the capital of Upper Louisiana, and M. de St. Ange was appointed governor of the place. But Louis XV had made, in 1763, another treaty, by which he ceded to Spain the remainder of our possessions in North America. This treaty, kept secret during a year, completed the measure of humiliations and losses that France had to endure under such a reign. The official news of it was only received at New Orleans on the 21st of April, 1764, and the consternation it spread throughout Upper and Lower Louisiana was such that the governor, M. d'Abadie, died of grief. Serious disturbances were the consequence, and the tragical events which took place under the command of Gen. O'Reilly, of sanguinary memory, caused the administration of Upper Louisiana to remain in the hands of the French for several years. It was only on the 11th of August, 1768, that the Spanish troops were able to take possession of St. Louis for the first time, and even then they could not hold the position above eleven months. At last, peace being restored, the Spaniards again became masters of all the country in 1770, five years before the death of M. de St. Ange, who expired at St. Louis in 1775, aged seventy-six years. M. Laclede died at the Post of the Arkansas on the 20th of July, 1778, leaving no children.
In 1780, St. Louis was unsuccessfully attacked by 1,000 Indians and Englishmen, from Michillimackina, who had received orders to seize upon the town on account of the part the Spaniards had taken in the war of American independence.
Spain never sought to derive any advantage from the resources of Upper Louisiana: it would seem as if she merely considered that mighty region as a barrier against the encroachments of her neighbor on her Mexican possessions. This policy alone can explain her indifference with regard to the government of that country. When she took possession of all the territory situated to the west of the Mississippi, she found there a French population already acclimated, civilized, and inured to fatigues, owing to the long wars it sustained against the English and the Indians. The prospect of a calm and peaceable existence had assembled this population on the borders of Arkansas, of the Mississippi, and of the Missouri, where it only awaited a protecting government, to enable it to give to industry and agriculture all possible development. All that Spain had to do was to open markets for its produce, and for exchanges with the southern colonies. This extensive empire, possessing the largest natural advantages, bounded by the Mississippi, the Missouri, and the Pacific Ocean, might have, owing to the preponderance that it could have acquired (as we witness in our days), changed the course of events which have taken place in Europe since that epoch. France could not aspire to such power as long as she possessed Canada, but she should have thought of it when she abandoned that colony. The immense results obtained by the liberal institutions of the United States show clearly, in the present day, that the loss of
What was easy for France was still much more so for Spain; but instead of adopting this simple policy—liberal and grand in its results—Spain contented herself with isolating the colonists and the Indians of Missouri and of Mississippi, imposing an arbitrary government upon them, checking all communication between the neighboring populations; establishing restrictions on importation, prohibiting foreign competition, restricting emigration, granting exclusive privileges, and making, without any conditions, concessions of lands, etc. It is not surprising, then, that she complains that her colonies cost her more than she realized by them. Nowhere, either in her laws or in her decrees, is there to be found a plan adopted with a view of developing the natural and moral resources of these countries. As the government appeared only to occupy itself with the exigencies of each day, in like manner the inhabitants did not seem to think of the morrow. The Creoles of Upper Louisiana, who were the descendants of a brave and enterprising nation, not finding in this state of things any support for their physical and moral faculties, penetrated into the depths of the forests, got amid a multitude of savage tribes whom they had not heard of before, began to explore the regions situated between the Mississippi and the Rocky Mountains, and created the fur trade in that extensive portion of North America. In this way was formed that class of intrepid men called
voyageurs
or
engages
, of whom we have already spoken, and who were as necessary in the plains of the west as are the Canadian
voyageurs
in the frozen countries of the north and north-west.
Meanwhile America had attained her independence, and France was commencing her revolution, when, all of a sudden, on the 9th of July, 1803, at seven o'clock in the evening, the inhabitants of St. Louis learned that Spain had re-ceded Louisiana to Napoleon, who, in turn had sold it to the United States. We will make no remark on the profound sensation produced by this unexpected news. We will merely observe that the colonists could scarcely recover from their astonishment on hearing that they had become republicans, and seeing a multitude of judges, lawyers, notaries, tax-gatherers, etc., arriving among them. They were even less able to understand that liberty which obliged them to leave their homes to vote at elections, or to serve as jurors. They had allowed civilization to advance without taking any notice of it. Their existence was so isolated, so simplified, that they lost sight of the advantages of social life. They possessed no public schools, and the missionaries, being too few in number, were seldom able to visit or instruct them in their religious duties. The object of their material life did not go beyond the domestic circle, the virtue and honesty of which were proverbial. They knew nothing of notaries, lawyers, or judges; and the prison remained empty during thirty years. To give an idea of the simplicity of the Creoles, we can not do better than relate an incident that took place a few years after the cession of Louisiana to the United States.
A Creole from Missouri was lounging about a sale of negro slaves on the borders of the Mississippi, in Lower Louisiana. The merchant, who was from Kentucky, asked him if he wished to buy
anything:
“Yes,” replied the Missourian, “I want a negro.” Having made his choice, he inquired the price of the one he selected. “Five hundred piastres,” replied the merchant; “but, according to custom, you have
one year to pay.
” At this proposition the purchaser became embarrassed; the thought of being liable to such a debt during an entire year annoyed him greatly. “No, no!” said he to the merchant, “I prefer paying you at once six hundred piastres, and letting the matter be ended.” “Very well,” said the obliging Kentuckian “I will do
anything
you please to make the affair convenient to you.” And the bargain was concluded.
The Spanish troops departed from Louisiana on the 3d of November, 1804 The American governor, W. H. Harrison, who had the chief command of the In dian territories of Upper Louisiana, organized the civil and judicial power of that country; and on the 2d of July, 1805, Gen. James Wilkinson established there, by order of congress, a territorial government, of which St. Louis was the capital.
The only military event in the annals of St. Louis was the attack upon the town by the English and Indians from Mackinaw, in 1780. The citizens had intelligence the previous fall of the contemplated expedition, and thereupon fortified the town with a rude stockade six feet high, made by two rows of upright palisades, a few feet apart, filled in between with earth. The outline of the stockade described a semi-circle around the place, resting its extremities upon the river, above and below the town, flanked by a small fort at each extremity. Three gates gave opening to the country in the rear, each defended by a piece of ordnance, kept well charged. Monette, in his History of the Mississippi Valley, gives these particulars:
The British commandant at Michillimackinac, hearing of the disasters of the British arms in Florida, conceived the idea of leading an expedition upon his own responsibility against the Spanish settlement of St. Louis. Early in the spring he had assembled one hundred and forty regular British troops and Canadian Frenchmen, and fourteen hundred Indian warriors for the campaign. From the southern extremity of Lake Michigan this host of savages, under British leaders, marched across to the Mississippi, and encamped within a few miles of St. Louis. The town had been fortified for temporary defense, and the hostile host made a regular Indian investment of the place. Skirmishes and desultory attacks continued for several days, during which many were killed, and others were taken captive by the Indians. Much of the stock of cattle and horses belonging to the place was killed or carried off.
The people at length, believing a general attack was contemplated, and having lost confidence in their commandant's courage, or in his preparations for defense, sent a special request to Col. Clark, then commanding at Kaskaskia, to come to their aid with such force as he could assemble. Col. Clark immediately made preparation to march to their relief. Having assembled nearly five hundred men under his command, he marched to the bank of the Mississippi, a short distance below the town of St. Louis. Here he remained encamped for further observations. On the sixth of May the grand Indian attack was made, when Col. Clark. crossing the river, marched up to the town to take part in the engagement. The sight of the Americans, or the
“Long-knives,”
as they were called, under the command of the well-known Col. Clark, caused the savages to abandon the attack and seek safety in flight. They refused to participate in any further hostilities, and reproached the British commandant with duplicity in having assured them that he would march them to fight the Spaniards only, whereas now they were brought against the Spaniards and the Americans. They soon afterward abandoned the British standard, and returned to their towns, near Lakes Superior and Michigan.
An old settler, writing for the Missouri Republican, in 1826, and the St. Louis Sketch Book, gives these historical items:
A lapse of twenty years has ensued since I first obtained a residence in this rising town.
Twenty years since, and down to a much later period, the commerce of the country, on the Mississippi, was carried on in Mackinaw batteaux and keel boats. A voyage performed in one of the latter kind was a fearful undertaking; and the return trip from New Orleans was considered an expeditious one if made in
ninety days.
When an increased commerce took place, our streets were thronged with
voyageurs
, of all ages, countries and complexions. They were a source of constant trouble to a weak and inefficient police, with whom they delighted to kick up a row. Deprived, by the introduction of steamboats, of their usual means of living, and like the savage averse to settled life, they have almost entirely disappeared. At the time of which we write, the traveler who made a journey to the Atlantic states, did not resolve upon it without mature deliberation.
“Previous to the year 1829,”says the Sketch Book of St. Louis, “there was no Protestant church in St. Louis, but in that year the first Presbyterian church was built, and the Rev. Artemas Bullard engaged as the minister.
In 1844, another flood, equaling that which took place in the days of Crusat, visited the Mississippi. The river rose rapidly until the entire American bottom was submerged. Steamboats and all descriptions of water craft were to be seen winding their way through the woods opposite the city, conveying passengers to and from the coal hills on the Illinois shore, a distance of about twelve miles. This flood was very disastrous in its character, almost totally destroying Illinoistown, which had become a village of several thousand inhabitants. The damage was immense, while not a few lives were lost, thousands of hogs, horses, cattle, sheep, fowls, etc., were drowned. ‘Many who, before the flood, were in affluent circumstances, found themselves beggared. This was a marked event upon the trade of St. Louis, and she had scarcely recovered from the effects, when another calamity befel her. Late in the fall of 1848, that dreadful scourge, the cholera, made its appearance; the approach of cold weather stayed in a great measure the ravages of disease, but in the spring it developed itself in full force.
When the disease was raging at its fiercest, the city was doomed to another horror—May 17, 1849, it was burned—fifteen squares were laid in ashes. The fire commenced on the steamer White Cloud. At the commencement the wind was blowing stiffly, forcing the boat directly into shore, which circumstance contributed seriously to the marine disaster. The wind set into the wharf, and although the cables of all the boats were hauled in, and they drifted out into the current, yet the
flaming vessel
seemed to outstrip them all in the speed with which she traveled down stream.
In July, 1817, came the Gen. Pike, the first steamer which arrived at St. Louis. She was commanded by Capt. Jacob Reed, and was built on Bear Grass Creek, near Louisville. In 1847, on the anniversary of the city's birth, a miniature representation of the boat was exhibited, and became the most curious feature of the celebration, as showing the changes in steamboat architecture. “This miniature representation was about twenty feet long; the hull that of a barge, and the cabin on the lower deck run up on the inside of the running board. The wheels were exposed, being without a wheel-house—she was propelled by a low pressure engine, with a single chimney and a large
walking beam.
The crew were supplied with poles, and where the current proved too strong for the steam, they used the poles, as on keel boats, to help her along. It was mounted on wheels, and drawn by eight white horses. The boat was manned by a crew of steamboat captains, who appeared in the dress usually worn by the officers and men in their various stations.”
Bloody Island, opposite St. Louis, near the Illinois shore of the Mississippi, is the terminus of the Ohio and Mississippi Railroad. It received its name from the circumstance of its being the dueling ground for this region. It is within the limits of Illinois, and at the time of high freshets is partially covered with water. It has a growth of large forest trees. This spot was selected by duelists from its being neutral ground: the island was for some time disputed territory between the states of Illinois and Missouri. A fatal contest of this kind ensued between Thomas Biddle, of St. Louis, and one of his friends, in which both were killed. The origin of the duel seems to have been some jocose remark made by the antagonist of Mr. Biddle in regard to his (Mr. Biddle's) family affairs. Mrs. Biddle foolishly considering herself insulted, gave her husband no rest until he had challenged the author of the remark to mortal combat. Having passed over to Bloody Island, they fought at the distance of some three or four paces apart, and both fell mortally wounded. Mrs. Biddle, overwhelmed at the fatal consequences of her attempt to avenge her injured feelings, devoted the remainder of her life to penitence, and her fortune to charity. The annexed engraving is a view of a monument erected in memory of husband and wife, on the premises of St. Mary's Orphan Asylum, on Tenth-street, under the charge of the order of the “Daughters of Charity.”The monument is about 20 feet high: the following words are affixed over the door, “Pray for the souls of Thomas and Anne Biddle.”
Biddle Monument, St. Louis.
Over the door are the words,
Pray for the souls of Thomas and Anne Biddle.
The following inscriptions are from monuments within the city limits:
In memory of one whose name needs no eulogy,
Joseph M. White,
late Delegate in Congress from the Territory of Florida. Born in Franklin county, Kentucky, 8th of Oct., 1798, died in St. Louis, at the residence of his brother, Thomas J. White, M.D., the 19th day of October, 1839.
Thomas Barbour,
M.D., son of the Hon. P. P. Barbour, of Virginia. Born Aug. 26, 1810, and died June 18, 1849. In all the relations of life, he illustrated the strength and beauty of Christian principle—ardent affection, generous friendship, and fervent charity were the spontaneous emotions of a heart imbued with the holy desire of glorifying God and doing good to man. As a practitioner of medicine he had attained a distinguished eminence. With the Medical Department of the University of Missouri, his name is associated as one of its founders and most able and faithful teachers. With the early history of the Central Presbyterian Church, of which he was an Elder, his name is recorded as one of its brightest ornaments.
Jefferson City,
the capital of Missouri is situated on the right bank of Missouri River, on elevated, uneven and somewhat rocky ground, 125 miles W. of St. Louis. It contains the state house, a state penitentiary, the governor's house, several schools, 5 churches, 2 banks, and about 3,500 inhabitants, of whom near one half are Germans or of German orgin. The state house is built of stone, at an expense of $250,000, and presents a magnificent appearance as it is approached sailing up the river from the eastward.
“Erected Anno Domini, 1838. L. W. Boggs, Governor; P. C. Glover, Sec'y of State; H. H. Baber, Aud. Pub. Accts; W. B. Napton, Att'y General; A. McClellan, Treasurer, Commissioners. S. Hills, Architect.”
East View of Jefferson City.
The view annexed presents the appearance of the Capitol and other buildings, as the city is entered upon the Pacific Railroad. The bluff shown is 80 feet high, and on its summit is the residence of Gen. J. L. Minor, formerly secretary of the state. The Railroad Depot is at the foot of the bluff on the left; the Capitol on Capitol Hill is in the central part, at the base of which is the Ferry and City Landing.
The first white persons who located themselves within the limits of Jefferson City were John Wier and a Dr. Brown. Wier, who appears to have been a squatter, built his cabin on the spot where J. T. Rogers' (late mayor) house now stands. Wier's Creek, at the foot of Capitol Hill, was named after him. Dr. Brown, said to have been from Ireland, located himself on the declivity of Capitol Hill. William Jones, a bricklayer, kept the first ferry and house of entertainment at this place; he was succeeded by Mr. Thomas Rogers, the father of the mayor. Dr. Stephen C. Dorris, father of Dr. A. P. Dorris, was the first regular physician: he was succeeded by Dr. Bolton, and he in turn by Dr. Mills. Robert A. Ewing (afterward judge of the county court), was the first resident lawyer. Judge Wells was the next. Robert Jones was the first merchant: he had his store at the base of the Capitol Hill, near the ferry and city wharf. Among his purchases was that of two or three barrels of coffee, which at that time was considered a bold and hazardous speculation, as it was supposed it would take a long period to sell such an amount.
The first school was taught by Jesse F. Roys, an itinerant teacher from North Carolina; he was succeeded by Hiram H. Baber, Esq., a native of Virginia, and now, with one exception, the oldest inhabitant of Jefferson City. The school house was about half way between the railroad depot and the penitentiary. Jason Harrison, Esq., the first clerk of Cole county, was a native of Maryland; he came into Missouri in 1811, and into Jefferson City in 1831. The first brick structure erected was a one story building, 16 feet square, built by Wm. Jones, and occupied as the state treasury office: it stood opposite the Methodist Church. The first state house was built of brick, by Reuben Garnett, and stood in a lot adjoining the governor's house. It was accidentally burnt in Nov., 1837, and all the state papers, except those in the auditor's office destroyed. The seat of government was located in 1821, laid out in 1822, and the first sale of lots was made in 1823. The first trustees of the town were Adam Hope, John C. Gordon, and Josiah Ramsay, jr. The first governor resident in Jefferson City, was John Miller, and a man of great wealth. He died while member of Congress, and was buried at St. Louis.
The first printing press was started here in 1826, by Calvin Gunn, who, it is believed, was from Connecticut. It was called the “Jeffersonian Republican.”The first house for public worship here was erected by the Methodists and Baptists: this was in 1838. The Episcopal church was erected in 1842; the first resident Episcopal clergyman was Rev. Wm. L. Hommann. The first Presbyterian church was built about the year 1845, and the first resident clergyman was Rev. Hiram S. Goodrich, D.D., from the eastern states, who came here about 1843. The Catholics, who are the largest religious body in the city, erected their first house of worship in 1847: their present handsome structure was built in 1857. The state penitentiary was opened about 1835: the first warden was Gen. Lewis Bolton, and for about three months he had but one convict under his charge, who was put here for horse stealing or some kindred crime. This prisoner was much delighted when the next convict arrived, for he was quite weary of solitude.
The Missouri River is about 1,000 yards wide at this place, its ordinary current three and a half miles an hour, and its fall four inches to the mile. The ordinary rise of water here is from 10 to 15 feet above low water mark. The highest floods occur annually in June, like the annual overflow of the Nile in Egypt. It is caused by the melting of the snow in the Rocky Mountains, nearly 3,000 miles distant. One of the greatest rise of waters known was on the 24th of June, 1844, at which time the water rose
thirty feet
above low water mark.
In this section the principal fish are the cat, buffalo, and shovel fish: sturgeon are also taken. The cat fish ordinarily weigh from 3 to 25 lbs. In some instances they have been known to weigh 200 lbs. The method by which they are taken is called
“jugging for cats.
”A single line about four feet in length, having a hook baited with flesh, is attached to the handle of a gallon jug and then thrown into the middle of the current or the river. When the bait is swallowed it is known by the sinking of the jug, which acts like a cork: the fisherman thereupon takes up the line and secures the fish. The fisherman's usual method is to go up the stream, throw in his jugs, and float down with them, huging the shore with his boat, so as to be in a position to closely watch his jugs, of which he can generally oversee some 10 or 12 at a time.
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the Jefferson City graveyard:
Erected by the State of Missouri to the memory of
Gov. Thomas Reynolds,
who died Feb. 9, 1844, aged 48 years. He was born in Bracken county, Kentucky, March 12, 1796: in early life he became a citizen of the State of Illinois, and there filled the several offices of Clerk of the House of Representatives, Attorney General, Speaker of the House of Representatives, and Chief Justice of the Supreme Court. In 1829, he removed to the State of Missouri, and was successively Speaker of the House of Representatives, Judge of the Second Judicial Circuit, and died Governor of the State. His life was one of honor, virtue and patriotism, and in every situation in which he was placed, he discharged his duty faithfully.
In memory of
Peter G. Glover,
born in Buckingham county, Va., Jan. 14, 1792; died in Osage county, Oct. 27, 1851, and lies buried here. He emigrated to Kentucky in early life, then to Missouri, where he filled the important public offices of the Justice of the County Court, Representative from Callaway, Senator from Cole, Auditor of Public Accounts, Superintendent of Common Schools, and Treasurer of the State, to the satisfaction of the people. As a father, husband, and friend, he was without reproach.
Wm. A. Robards,
late Attorney General of the State of Missouri, born in Ky., May 3, 1817; died Sept. 3, 1851. Erected by the State of Missouri, of which he was a worthy citizen, and its able and faithful officer, having filled several offices of public trust.
New Madrid
, the seat of New Madrid county, is on the Mississippi, 150 miles below St. Louis, in the south-eastern corner of the state, and has about 1,000 inhabitants. This is one of the old towns of Missouri, and the earliest American settlement west of the Mississippi River. Through the diplomatic talents of Colonel Wilkinson, the Spanish governor of Louisiana was induced to adopt a policy of conciliation to the western people, in hopes of attaching them to the Spanish government, and so forming a political union with the
The first step toward the accomplishment of this desirable object was the plan of forming American settlements in Upper Louisiana, as well as in the Florida district of Lower Louisiana. A large American settlement was to be formed on the west side of the Mississippi, between the mouth of the Ohio and the St. Francis River. General Morgan, an American citizen, received a large grant of land about seventy miles below the mouth of the Ohio, upon which he was to introduce and settle an American colony. Soon afterward and in 1788, General Morgan arrived with his colony, and located it about seventy miles below the mouth of the Ohio, upon the ancient alluvions which extend westward to the Whitewater Creek, within the present county of New Madrid, in Missouri. Here, upon the beautiful rolling plains, he laid off the plan of a magnificent city, which, in honor of the Spanish capital, he called “New Madrid.”The extent and plan of the new city was but little, if any, inferior to the old capital which it was to commemorate. Spacious streets, extensive public squares, avenues, and promenades were tastefully laid off to magnify and adorn the future city. In less than twelve months from its first location, it had assumed, according to Major Stoddart, the appearance of a regularly built town, with numerous temporary houses distributed over a high and beautiful undulatory plain. Its latitude was determined to be 36 deg. 30 min. north. In the center of the site, and about one mile from the Mississippi, was a beautiful lake, to be inclosed by the future streets of the city.
This policy was continued for nearly two years, in hopes of gaining over the western people to an adherence to the Spanish interests. Nor was it wholly unsuccessful. In the meantime, many individuals in Kentucky, as well as on the Cumberland, had become favorably impressed toward a union with Louisiana under the Spanish crown, and a very large portion of them had been highly dissatisfied with the policy of the Federal government, because it had failed to secure for them the free navigation of the river, either by formal negotiation or by force of arms. But this state of mitigated feeling toward the Spanish authorities was of but short duration.
New Madrid was nearly ruined by the
great earthquakes
of the winter of 1811-12, it being the center of the most violent shocks. The first occurred in the night of 15th Dec., 1811, and they were repeated at intervals for two or three months, being felt from Pittsburg to New Orleans. By them the Little Prairie settlement, thirty miles below this place, was entirely broken up, and Great Prairie nearly ruined. The graveyard at New Madrid, with its sleeping tenants, was precipitated into the river, and the town dwindled to insignificance and decay. Thousands of acres in this section of the country sunk, and multitudes of ponds and lakes were created in their places. “The earth burst in what are called sand blows. Earth, sand, coal, and water were thrown up to great hights in the air.”The Mississippi was dammed up and flowed backward; birds descended from the air, and took refuge in the bosoms of people that were passing. The whole country was inundated. A great number of boats that were passing on the river were sunk, and whole crews perished; one or two that were fastened to islands went down with them. The country being but sparsely settled, and the buildings mostly logs, the loss of life was less than it otherwise would have been. Col. John Shaw gives these reminiscences of this event.
* “Personal Narrative of Col. John Shaw, of Marquette county, Wisconsin,”published in the Collections of the Historical Society of Wisconsin.
While lodging about thirty miles north of New Madrid, on the 14th of December, 1811, about two o'clock in the morning, occurred a heavy shock of an earthquake. The house where I was stopping, was partly of wood and partly of brick structure; the brick portion all fell, but I and the family all fortunately escaped unhurt. At another shock, about two o'clock in the morning of the 7th of February, 1812, I was in New Madrid, when nearly two thousand people, of all ages, fled in terror from their falling dwellings, in that place
About twelve miles back toward New Madrid, a young woman about seventeen years of age, named Betsey Masters, had been left by her parents and family, her leg having been broken below the knee by the falling of one of the weight-poles of the roof of the cabin; and, though a total stranger, I was the only person who would consent to return and see whether she still survived. Receiving a description of the locality of the place, I started, and found the poor girl upon a bed, as she had been left, with some water and corn bread within her reach. I cooked up some food for her, and made her condition as comfortable as circumstances would allow, and returned the same day to the grand encampment. Miss Masters eventually recovered.
In abandoning their homes, on this emergency, the people only stopped long enough to get their teams, and hurry in their families and some provisions. It was a matter of doubt among them, whether water or fire would be most likely to burst forth, and cover all the country. The timber land around New Madrid sunk five or six feet, so that the lakes and lagoons, which seemed to have their beds pushed up, discharged their waters over the sunken lands. Through the fissures caused by the earthquake, were forced up vast quantities of a hard, jet black substance, which appeared very smooth, as though worn by friction. It seemed a very different substance from either anthracite or bituminous coal.
* The late Hon. Lewis F. Linn, a resident of St. Genevieve, and for many years a member of the United States senate from Missouri, and a man of science, addressed a letter, in 1836, to the chairman of the committee on commerce, in which he speaks of the New Madrid earthquakes, and distinctly mentions water, sand, and
coal issuing from the vast chasms opened by the convulsions.
This
hegira
, with all, its attendant appalling circumstances, was a most heart-rending scene, and had the effect to constrain the most wicked and profane, earnestly to plead to God in prayer for mercy. In less than three months, most of these people returned to their homes, and though the earthquakes continued occasially with less destructive effects, they became so accustomed to the recurring vibrations, that they paid little or no regard to them, not even interrupting or checking their dances, frolics, and vices.
Father Cartwright, in his autobiography, gives us some facts to show that the earthquakes proved an element of strength to the Methodists. He tells us:
In the winter of 1812 we had a very severe earthquake; it seemed to stop the current of the Mississippi, broke flatboats loose from their moorings, and opened large cracks or fissures in the earth. This earthquake struck terror to thousands of people, and under the mighty panic hundreds and thousands crowded to, and joined the different churches. There were many very interesting incidents connected with the shaking of the earth at this time; two I will name. I had preached in Nashville the night before the second dreadful shock came, to a large congregation. Early the next morning I arose and walked out on the hill near the house where I had preached, when I saw a negro woman coming down the hill to the spring, with an empty pail upon her head. (It is very common for negroes to carry water this way without touching the pail with either hand.) When she got within a few rods of where I stood, the earth began to tremble and jar; chimneys were thrown down, scaffolding around many new buildings fell with a loud crash, hundreds of the citizens suddenly awoke, and sprang into the streets; loud screaming followed, for many thought the day of judgment was come. The young mistresses of the above-named negro woman came running after her, and begging her to pray for them. She raised the shout and said to them, “My Jesus is coming in the clouds of heaven, and I can't wait to pray for you now; I must go and meet him. I told you so, that he would come, and you would not believe me. Farewell. Hallelujah! Jesus is coming, and I am ready.
Hallelujah! Amen.
”And on she went, shouting and clapping her hands, with the empty pail on her head.
Near Russellville, Logan county, Kentucky, lived old Brother Valentine Cook, of very precious memory, with his wife Tabitha. Brother Cook was a graduate at Cokesbury College at an early day in the history of Methodism in these United States. He was a very pious successful pioneer preacher, but, for the want of a sufficient support for a rising and rapidly increasing family, he had located, and was teaching school at the time of the above“O Mr. Cook, don't leave me.
”
“O Tabby,”said he, “my Jesus is coming, and I can not wait for you;”and on he went, shouting at every jump,
“My Jesus is coming; I can't wait for you, Tabby.
”
The years of the excitement by these earthquakes hundreds joined the Methodist Episcopal Church, and though many were sincere, and stood firm, yet there were hundreds that no doubt had joined them from mere fright.
The earthquake gave Tecumseh, the Shawnee chieftain, the reputation of a prophet among the Indians of Alabama. A few months previous to this event, he was on his mission to the southern Indians, to unite all the tribes of the south with those of the north in his grand scheme of exterminating the whole white race from the wide extent of the Mississippi valley—from the lakes of the north to the Gulf of Mexico. Drake, in his memoir of Tecumseh, gives this anecdote:
On his return from Florida, Tecumseh went among the Creeks in Alabama, urging them to unite with the Seminoles. Arriving at Tuekhabatchee, a Creek town on the Tallapoosa River, he made his way to the lodge of the chief, called the Big Warrior. He explained his object, delivered his war talk, presented a bundle of sticks, gave a peace of wampum and a hatchet; all which the Big Warrior took. When Tecumseh, reading the intentions and spirit of the Big Warrior, looked him in the eye, and pointing his finger toward his face, said: “Your blood is white; you have taken my talk, and the sticks, and the wampum, and the hatchet, but you do not mean to fight; I know the reason; you do not believe the Great Spirit has sent me; you shall know; I leave Tuckhabatchee directly, and shall go straight to Detroit; when I arrive there, I will stamp on the ground with my foot, and shake down every house in Tuckhabatchee.”So saying, he turned and left the Big Warrior in utter amazement, at both his manner and his threat, and pursued his journey. The Indians were struck no less with his conduct than was the Big Warrior, and began to dread the arrival of the day when the threatened calamity would befall them. They met often and talked over this matter, and counted the days carefully, to know the time when Tecumseh would reach Detroit. The morning they had fixed upon, as the period of his arrival, at last came. A mighty rumbling was heard—the Indians all ran out of their houses—the earth began to shake; when at last, sure enough, every house in Tuckhabatchee was shaken down! The exclamation was in every mouth, “Tecumseh has got to Detroit!”The effect was electrical. The message he had delivered to the Big Warrior was believed, and many of the Indians took their rifles and prepared for the war. The reader will not be surprised to learn that an earthquake had produced all this; but he will be, doubtless, that it should happen on the very day on which Tecumseh arrived at Detroit; and, in exact fulfillment of his threat. It was the famous earthquake of New Madrid.
Lexington,
the county seat of Fayette, is situated for the most part on high grounds, on the south bank of the Missouri. The bluffs at the landing being about 200 feet above the river, the city is but partially seen from the decks of passing steamers. It is 125 miles above Jefferson City, and 250 from St. Louis. It contains the county buildings, 8 churches, the Masonic College, a flourishing institution, under the patronage of the Masonic fraternity of the state, and about 5,000 inhabitants.
Fayette, the county in which Lexington is situated, ranks the second in wealth in Missouri. Hemp is the most important production. Inexhaustible beds of bituminous coal are found in almost every part of the county, and the soil is rich and fertile. The Messrs. McGrew's establishment for the manufacture of bale rope, at Lexington landing, is admirably constructed. The hemp is unloaded at the upper story, and passes through the various stages of its manufacture, till it comes out bales of rope, ready for transportation to market, in the warehouse below. The machinery is moved by
View of Lexington Landing.
The engraving shows the appearance of the steamboat landing as it appears from the point on the opposite side of Missouri River. The Messrs. M'Grew's Hemp Factory, Flouring Mill, etc., are seen in the central part; the road to the city back from the bluffs appears on the left; the places from whence coal is taken on the right.
Lexington was originally laid out about a mile back from the river, which, at that period was hardly considered fit for navigation, goods being principally transported by land. Th( present city, being an extension of the old town, was commenced in 1839. At that time the site on which the present court house stands was a cornfield, owned by James Ile brother to Robert Ile, the president of the Bank of Lexington, both of whom were natives of New Castle, Del. The first court house was erected in the ancient part of Lexington, and is now occupied as a Female Seminary, a flourishing institution under the patronage of the Baptists. The first house of worship in Lexington, was erected about 1831 or 1832, by the Cumberland and the Old School Presbyterians. It was a small frame building, which stood a few rods west of the old court house. Rev. John L. Yantis, now president of the Theological College at Richmond, was one of the first preachers. The inhabitants previously attended public worship in the country, back from the river. The Baptist and Methodist churches were erected in 1840. The Episcopal church is a recent structure; the first minister who officiated was Rev. St. Michael Fackler, now a missionary in Oregon. The Dutch Reformed Church bought their meeting house of the Christian or Campbellite Baptists, in 1856.
The first regular public house in the modern part of Lexington, was the house next the residence of Robert Ile, the president of the bank, on the summit of the bluff. This spot commands an extensive prospect up and down the river, showing Wellington, 8 miles distant, also Camden, in Ray county, some 8 or 10 miles distant in a direct line, but 18 by the river. The first regular ferryman was William Jack, a Methodist class leader and ox-horter, a man much esteemed for his Christian life and conversation. In 1827, C. R. Morehead, cashier of the Farmer's Bank, built and loaded the first flatboat, in which he transported the first tobacco raised for export in the county. This cargo, which consisted of forty-six hogsheads, with a quantity of bees-wax and peltries, was sent to New Orleans. The first goods brought by steamboats came in 1828, by the steamer William Duncan.
In 1838, at the period of the Mormon war, as it was called, Lexington contained some 500 inhabitants. The Mormons first located themselves in Jackson county, about 35 miles west. They afterward effected a more permanent settlement in Caldwell county. At first they were enabled to live peaceably with their neighbors. In 1838, difficulties arising, the governor of Missouri gave orders for their expulsion. A conflict took place in Ray county, in which Patten, a Mormon leader and elder was killed, and a number wounded. During this period it was quite a time of alarm in this section, and the inhabitants of Lexington fled to Richmond for safety.
Wm. Downing is believed to have been the first innkeeper in the ancient part of Lexington. Wm. Todd was the first judge of the circuit court; the present judge, Russel Hicks
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the graveyard in this place:.
In memory of
Rev. Finis Ewing,
born in Bedford county, Va., July 10, 1773, died in Lexington, Mo., July 4, 1841. He was a Minister of the Gospel for forty-five years; was one of the fathers and founders of the Cumberland Presbyterian Church.
In memory of Reverend
Jesse Greene,
born Nov. 29, A.D. 1791, died April 18, A.D. 1847. A pure Christian, a wise Counsellor, a faithful Minister, a Pioneer of Methodism in Missouri, part in the Council and Itinerant labors of his Church, and fell at his post. “I heard a voice from heaven, saying write, Blessed are the dead who die in the Lord; Yea, saith the Spirit, their works do follow them.”Rev. xiv, 13. The members of the Saint Louis Annual Conference of the Methodist Episcopal Church South have erected this monument over his remains, A.D. 1850.
L. A. Griswold,
Hebe of Prudence Constellation, No. 34, A.A.R., surrendered her crown on Earth to be crowned with immortal glory in Heaven. In memory of Lockie A. Griswold, wife of Sylvanus A. Griswold, completed her errand of Mercy here, and was permitted to behold the Light of the Seraphic world, which ever inspired her with fraternal excellence, at 10 o'clock, P.M., Sent. 27, 1856.
North-eastern view of Kansas City.
Showing the appearance of Kansas City, at the Landing, as seen from the opposite bank of the Hissom The forest shown in the, distance, beyond the point of the bluff on the right, is within the territorial limits of Kansas. The Ferry Landing and the old Jail or Calaboose appear on the left.
Kansas City
is situated near the mouth of Kansas River, at the wester boundary line between the state of Missouri and Kansas, 282 miles westwar of Jefferson City, 456 from St. Louis, and 109 southerly from St. Joseph, o the Missouri. It is the western terminus of the line of the Pacific Railroad A bluff, about 120 feet above high water mark, extends along the river for about a mile within the city limits. The principal part of the town is situated immediately back of the bluff, through which roads are being cut to the levee in front. This city is the great depot for the Santa Fe trade, and it isone fourth
of all the shipments up the Missouri River, from its mouth to the Rocky Mountains, are received here. Kansas City was incorporated in 1853. Population about 8,000.
As far back as the days of Lewis and Clarke, or the first expeditions of the various trapping companies of the French and the old pioneers of the west, the site of Kansas City has been a prominent point for the business of the old trappers and traders, who have had many a business transaction around their camp fires under the bluffs of the
“Kawsmouth,”
as this spot was formerly called.
The principal portion of the land inclosed by the old city limits was entered by Gabriel Prudhomme, an old mountain trader. The selection, survey, and first sale of the lots was made in 1838. The survey was but a partial one, and owing to some disagreement, nothing was done by the stockholders except the erection of a few cabins. In 1846, the town was re-surveyed by J. C. McCoy, Esq., and the growth of the city may be dated as commencing from that year. Within eighteen months after the first sale of lots, there was a population of about 700. The proprietors of the town were J. C. McCoy, Wm. Gilliss, Robert Campbell, H. Jobe, W. B. Evans, Jacob Ragan, and Fry P. McGee.
The first house erected in Kansas City was a log cabin, which stood on the site of the building in which the Western Journal of Commerce is issued. This cabin was erected in 1839, by Thomas A. Smart, as a trading house. The second building was erected by Anthony Richers, a native of Germany, who was educated for the Catholic ministry. Father Bernard Donnelly, a native of Ireland and a Catholic, is believed to have been the first clergyman who officiated in public worship; he preached in a log building, now used as a school house, near Broadway, about half a mile back from the steamboat landing. The first physician was Dr. Benoist Troost, of Holland, formerly a surgeon under Napoleon. The first postmaster was William Chick, who for a time kept the office in the top of his hat.
“One eyed Ellis,”
as he was familiarly called, appears to have been the first lawyer, who, it is stated, employed his leisure time in “picking up stray horses.” Wm. B. Evans kept the first tavern, at the corner of Main and Levee-streets. The first newspapers were the “Kansas Ledger,” first issued in 1852, and the “Western Journal of Commerce,” first issued in Aug., 1854, under the name of the “Kansas City Enterprise.”
A great portion of the early trade of the city was with the Indians, mountain and Mackinaw traders, boatmen, etc. Poneys, pelts, furs, etc., were received in exchange for powder, lead, tobacco, coffee, etc. The first and principal warehouses in town were erected in 1847. Col. E. C. McCarty, in company with Mr. Russell, started the first train from Kansas City to New Mexico; old Mr. McDowell took the charge of it, and was the first man that ever crossed the American Desert in a wagon. The following is extracted from the Annals of the City of Kansas, published in 1858:
The New Mexico, or, as it is generally known, the Santa Fe trade, is said to have first began at Boonville, or Old Franklin, as early as the year 1824. Mr. Monroe, Philip Thompson, the Subletts of St. Louis and Jackson counties, Nat. Sernes, and others, were among the first men ever engaged in the trade. The idea of taking or sending goods to New Mexico, was first suggested to these gentlemen by the richness and thick settlements of this valley of the Rio Grande Del Norte. When returned to the states, they commenced making preparations to forward goods to this valley. How to get their merchandise there, without being at an almost ruinous expense, was the most important subject of consideration. Finally, having resolved to go—to make the experiment at all hazards, they started, taking out their freight as best they could, some in one horse wagons, some in carts, some on pack-mules, and,
on dit
, with packs on their backs. They were successful—a better trade was found than they anticipated—more goods were sent out, with better carriage facilities, and in a few years large fortunes were realized. In 1845, Messrs. Bent and St. Vrain landed the first cargo of goods at Kansas City, that was ever shipped from this point to New Mexico in wagons that went out in a train. This train consisted of eighteen wagons, with five yoke of cattle to the wagon, and about 5,000 lbs. of freight to each team. A great excitement was extant. Mexican commerce had given new life to border trade. Gradually the business with New Mexico became concentrated at points on the river. From 1832 to 1848, or 1850, our neighbor city, Independence, had the whole command of
During these years, from 1832 to 1848, some few mountain and Mexican goods were landed among the cottonwoods below our city. Messrs. Bent & St. Vrain are among the oldest freighters engaged in transporting goods over the Great Plains; in 1834, they landed a small shipment of mountain goods at Mr. Francois Chouteau's log warehouse, near the island just east of the city. In 1846 our citizens then had what they thought to be quite a large and respectable trade with New Mexico, and the next year, 1847, it is conceded that Kansas City fairly divided this great trade with the city of Independence; and since 1850, Kansas City has had the exclusive benefit of all the shipping, commission, storage, repairing and outfitting business of the mountains and New Mexico, save, perhaps, a few wagons that have been loaded and outfitted at Independence by her own merchants.
A Train crossing the Great Plains.
From the most reliable information we can obtain, it is estimated that there are at least three hundred merchants and freighters now engaged in the New Mexico and mountain commerce. Properly, in this connection, may be inserted a few remarks concerning our mountain traffic and importations.
Some of our leading merchants for years have had trading houses established in the mountains, where they constantly keep a large stock of goods to trade with the Indians, who pay for these goods with their annuity money, with buffalo robes, with furs, pelts, hides, and Indian ornamental fabrics.
This trade done in the mountains, creates large importations of the above mountain products to our city. In 1857, the following importations were made: Robes, furs, etc., $267,253 52; Mexican wool, $129,600; goat skins, $25,000; dressed buckskins, $62,500; dry hides, $37,500; peltries, $36,000. Like the transport of Mexican goods, these imports come to us as the cargoes of the great mountain trains or caravans.
Train is only another word for caravan. These caravans then, consist of from forty to eighty large canvas covered wagons, with from fifty to sixty-five hundred pounds of freight to each wagon—also, six yoke of oxen or five span of mules for every wagon— two men as drivers for every team, besides supercargoes, wagon masters, etc., who generally ride on horseback. When under way, these wagons are about one hundred feet apart, and as each wagon and team occupies a space of about ninety or one hundred feet, a train of eighty wagons would stretch out over the prairie for a distance of a trifle over three miles. In 1857, 9,884 wagons left Kansas City for New Mexico. Now, if these wagons were all in one train, they would make a caravan 223 miles long, with 98,840 mules and oxen, and freighting an amount of merchandise equal to 59,304,000 lbs.
A recent visitor at Kansas City gives some valuable items:
Just below the mouth of the Kansas, and between it and the highlands on which Kansasland ships.
They will carry from seven to ten thousand pounds, and are drawn by from three to six yokes of oxen. They are covered when loaded, so as to protect the goods from the rains. I examined them, and found them made many hundreds of miles to the east. I saw a large number which came from Michigan. They are strong, heavily ironed and massive wagons.
The commercial business of the town is mostly transacted on the levee. The solid blocks of warehouses receive the goods from the steamers, and from them they are loaded into the immense wagons and taken to their final destination. Here is the landing and the starting place for the vast trade to Santa Fe and New Mexico. One of the singular features in the streets is the large number of Mexicans, or as every body here calls them, “greasers,” with their trains of mules, loading for their far distant homes. Kansas City has been the starting place for this trade for thirty years. Many of the citizens have become wealthy by it, and the evidences of prosperity and thrift around us are traceable to the effects of this Santa Fe trade. I do not see any cause that can disturb this in the future. Heavy loads of goods and merchandise of all kinds are brought from St. Louis and the east, on steamers, to this, the last and the nearest point to the Territory of New Mexico, and as this business must increase with the settlement of the country to the west and south-west, the permanence of the prosperity of this city seems to be fixed.
These
“greasers
” are a hard looking set of men. They are a sort of compromise between the Indian and negro, with now and then a touch of Spanish blood. They are generally short and small, quite dark, very black straight hair, generally hanging about their faces. Their national hat is a low crowned slouch looking concern. They wear girdles, with knives, etc., convenient for use. Altogether they look like an ignorant, sensual, treacherous, thieving and blood-thirsty set, which is very much the character they bear among tho people of this city.
Kansas City, being in Missouri, has a few slaves, but they are fast disappearing. Some forty were shipped off in one gang this spring for the southern market. The original settlers were Southerners and slaveholders, but the northern element has been pouring in upon them till a large proportion of the business men are now from the free states. There is now no talk about slavery, all are engaged in a more sensible business—building up the city.
St. Joseph,
the most populous and flourishing place in north-western Missouri, is situated on the E. bank of the Missouri, 565 miles N.W. from St. Louis, 391 from Jefferson City, and 206, by the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad, from the Mississippi. The city is for the most part on broken and uneven ground, called the Black Snake Hills, and is surrounded by a rich and fertile country. There are 7 churches, 2 female seminaries, 2 daily and 3 weekly papers published here. There are several steam sawing and grist mills and other extensive manufacturing establishments. The Catholic Female Seminary of this place stands on a commanding elevation back from the city, and is seen from down the river at a great distance. The completion of the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad makes this, at present, the most western point in the United States reached by the great chain of railroads, and has opened a new era in its prosperity. It is now the central point for all western travel. The Great Salt Lake mail, the Pike's Peak express, and the Pony express, taking dispatches to San Francisco in eight days, all start from this place. Population about 10,000.
The city of St. Joseph was founded by Joseph Robidoux, a native of St. Louis, and of French descent. Mr. Robidoux first visited this place in 1803, as an Indian trader, being in connection at that time with the American Fur Company. He was
forty days
in sailing up the Missouri from St. Louis, and camped out every night on shore with his boatmen, about a dozen in number. The Indians lived on the city grounds till they removed to the opposite bank
81
South view of St. Joseph.
The view shows the appearance of the city, as it is approached from the south by the Missouri River. The Court House, in the central part, stands on an elevation of about 200 feet; the Railroad from Hannibal enters the city on the rich bottom lands on the right. The sand bank seen in the view on the left, is within the limits of Kansas.
The town was laid off in 1843. The first resident clergyman in the place was a Catholic, Rev. Thomas Scanlan, and the first public worship was held in the house of Mr. Julius O. Robidoux, the first postmaster in the place. Mr. R.'s first office was west of the Black Snake Creek, and he was the first regular merchant in St. Joseph. Rev. T. S. Reeve, the next minister, first preached in a log house on the corner of Third and Francis-streets. The first settlers were principally from Indiana, Kentucky and Ohio. Among the first settlers were Col. Samuel Hall, Capt. Wm. H. Hanson and William Ewing, from Kentucky; Capt. John Whitehead and James Cargill, from Virginia; Frederick W. Smith, from St. Louis; and Michael Rogers, from Ireland. Daniel G. Keedy, from Maryland, was the first physician. Jonathan M. Bassett, James B. Gardenhire, and Willard P. Hall, were among the first lawyers. Mrs. Stone, a widow lady, opened the first school. The first tavern was kept by David St. Clair, from Indiana, who came here in 1843. Jeremiah Lewis, from Kentucky, was the first ferryman.
Weston
, a flourishing commercial town, on the Missouri River, about 4 miles above Fort Leavenworth, is the river port for Platte county, about 225 miles W. N. W., by the road, from Jefferson City, and upward of 500 by water from St. Louis. Its frontier position renders it a favorable position for emigrants starting for California and other points west. It was first settled in 1838. The great emigration westward of late years, has much increased the activity of trade at this point. Two newspapers are published here. Population about 3,500.
Independence
, the county seat of Jackson, is important as one of the starting points in the trade to New Mexico, and other places westward. It is about five miles back from the Missouri River, and 165 miles W. by N. from Jefferson City. It was laid out in 1828, and is surrounded by a most beautiful and fertile country, abundantly supplied with pure water. Population about 3,500.
Hannibal.
Hannibal,
Marion county, on the western bank of the Mississippi, is 15 miles below Quincy, Ill., and 153 above St. Louis. It is a flourishing town and the shipping port of a large quantity of hemp, tobacco, pork, etc., raised in the vicinity. Stone opal, and excellent limestone for building purposes, are abundant. Its importance, however, is principally derived from its being the eastern terminus of the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad, a line extending directly across the northern part of the state, and which, at this point, connects this great western railroad with the system of railroads eastward of the Mississippi. Hannibal was laid out in 1819, and incorporated in 1839. It is one of the most thriving towns on the Mississippi, has numerous manufacturing establishments, an increasing commerce, and about 8,000 people.
Col. John Shaw, in his personal narrative, relates some incidents that occurred in this section of Missouri in the war of 1812. He acted as a scout on this frontier. We here quote from him:
The Upper Mississippi Indians, of all tribes, commenced depredations on the frontiers of Missouri and Illinois, in 1811, and early in 1812. Several persons were killed in different quarters. About thirty miles above the mouth of Salt River, and fully a hundred above the mouth of the Missouri, was Gilbert's Lick, on the western bank of the Mississippi, a place of noted resort for animals and cattle to lick the brackish water; and where a man named Samuel Gilbert, from Virginia, had settled two or three years prior to the spring of 1812. In that region, and particularly below him, were a number of other settlers. About the latter part of May, 1812, a party of from twelve to eighteen Upper Mississippi Indians descended the river in canoes, and fell upon the scattered cabins of this upper settlement in the night, and killed a dozen or more people.
This massacre in the Gilbert's Lick settlement, caused great consternation along the Missouri frontier, and the people, as a matter of precaution, commenced forting. Some seven or eight forts or stockades were erected, to which a portion of the inhabitants resorted, while many others held themselves in readiness to flee there for safety, in case it might be thought necessary. I remember the names of
About this time, probably a little after, while I was engaged with eighteen or twenty men in building a temporary stockade where Clarksville now Stands, on the western bank of the Mississippi, a party of Indians came and killed the entire family of one O'Neil, about three miles above Clarksville, while O'Neil himself was employed with his neighbors in erecting the stockade. In company with O'Neil and others, I hastened to the scene of murder, and found all killed, scalped, and horribly mangled. One of the children, about a year and a half old, was found literally baked in a large pot metal bake kettle or Dutch oven, with a cover on; and as there were no marks of the knife or tomahawk on the body, the child must have been put in alive to suffer this horrible death; the oil or fat in the bottom of the kettle was nearly two inches deep.
I went to St. Louis, in company with Ira Cottle, to see Gov. Clark, and ascertain whether war had been actually declared. This must have been sometime in June, but the news of the declaration of war against Great Britain had not yet reached there. On our return, I was strongly urged by the people to act as a spy or scout on the frontier, as I was possessed of great bodily activity, and it was well known that I had seen much woods experience. I consented to act in this capacity on the frontiers of St. Charles county, never thinking or troubling myself about any pecuniary recompense, and was only anxious to render the distressed people a useful service. I immediately entered alone upon this duty, sometimes mounted, and sometimes on foot, and carefully watching the river above the settlements, to discover whether any Indians had landed, and sometimes to follow their trails, learn their destination, and report to the settlements.
Upon my advice, several of the weaker stockades were abandoned, for twenty or thirty miles around, and concentrated at a place near the mouth of Cuivre or Copper River, at or near the present village of Monroe; and there a large number of us, perhaps some sixty or seventy persons, were some two or three weeks employed in the erection of a fort. We named it in honor of the patriotic governor, Benjamin Howard, and between twenty and thirty families were soon safely lodged in
Fort Howard.
The fort was an oblong square, north and south, and embraced about half an acre, with block houses at all the corners except the south-east one.
As the war had now fairly commenced, an act of congress authorized the raising of six companies of Rangers; three to be raised on the Missouri side of the Mississippi, and the other three on the Illinois side. The Missouri companies were commanded by Daniel M. Boone, Nathan Boone, and David Musick. The commission of Nathan Boone was dated in June, 1812, to serve a year, as were doubtless the others.
The Indians, supplied by their British employers with new rifles, seemed bent on exterminating the Americans—always, however, excepting the French and Spaniards, who, from their Indian intermarriages, were regarded as friends and connections. Their constant attacks and murders, led to offensive measures.
Of the famous
Sink Hole
battle, fought on the 24th of May, 1814, near Fort Howard, I shall be able to give a full account, as I was present and participated in it. Capt. Peter Craig commanded at Fort Howard; he resided with his father-in-law, Andrew Ramsey, at Cape Girardeau, and did not exceed thirty years of age. Drakeford Gray was first lieutenant. Wilson Able, the second, and Edward Spears, third lieutenant.
About noon, five of the men went out of the fort to Byrne's deserted house on the bluff, about a quarter of a mile below the fort, to bring in a grindstone. In consequence of back water from the Mississippi, they went in a canoe; and on their return were fired on by a party supposed to be fifty Indians, who were under shelter of some brush that grew along at the foot of the bluff, near Byrne's house, and about fifteen rods distant from the canoe at the time. Three of the whites were killed, and one mortally wounded; and as the back water, where the canoe was, was only about knee deep, the Indians ran out and tomahawked their victims.
The people in the fort ran out as quick as possible, and fired across the back water at the Indians, but as they were nearly a quarter of a mile off, it was of course without effect. Capt. Craig with a party of some twenty-five men hastened in pursuit of the Indians, and ran across a point of the back water, a few inches deep; while another party, of whom I was one, of about twenty-five, ran to the right of the water, with a view of intercepting the Indians, who seemed to be making toward the bluff or high plain west and north-west of the fort. The party with which I had started, and Capt. Craig's soon united.
Immediately on the bluff was the cultivated field and deserted residence of Benjamin Allen, the field about forty rods across, beyond which was pretty thick timber. Here the Indians made a stand, and here the fight commenced. Both parties treed, and as the firing waxed warm, the Indians slowly retired as the whites advanced. After this fighting had been going on perhaps some ten minutes, the whites were reinforced by Capt. David Musick, of Cape au Gris, with about twenty men. Capt. Musick had been on a scout toward the head of Cuivre River, and had returned, though unknown at Fort Howard, to the Crossing of Cuivre River, about a mile from the fort, and about a mile and a half from the scene of conflict; and had stopped with his men to graze their horses, when hearing the firing, they instantly remounted and dashed toward the place of battle, and dismounting in the edge of the timber on the bluff, and hitching their horses, they rushed through a part of the Indian line, and shortly after the enemy fled, a part bearing to the right of the Sink Hole toward Bob's Creek, but the most of them taking refuge in the Sink Hole, which was close by where the main fighting had taken place. About the time the Indians were retreating. Capt. Craig exposed himself about four feet beyond his tree, and was shot through the body, and fell dead; James Putney was killed before Capt. Craig, and perhaps one or two others. Before the Indians retired to the Sink Hole, the fighting had become animated, the loading was done quick, and shots rapidly exchanged, and when one of our party was killed or wounded, it was announced aloud.
This Sink Hole was about sixty feet in length, and about twelve to fifteen feet wide, and ten or twelve feet deep. Near the bottom on the south-east side, was a shelving rock, under which perhaps some fifty or sixty persons might have sheltered themselves. At the north-east end of the Sink Hole, the descent was quite gradual, the other end much more abrupt, and the south-east side was nearly perpendicular, and the other side about like the steep roof of a house. On the Southeast side, the Indians, as a further protection in case the whites should rush up dug under the shelving rock with their knives. On the sides and in the bottom of the Sink Hole were some bushes, which also served as something of a screen for the Indians.
Capt. Musick and his men took post on the north-east side of the Sink Hole, and the others occupied other positions surrounding the enemy. As the trees approached close to the Sink Hole, these served in part to protect our party. Finding we could not get a good opportunity to dislodge the enemy, as they were best protected, those of our men who had families at the fort, gradually went there, not knowing but a large body of Indians might seize the favorable occasion to attack the fort, while the men were mostly away, engaged in the exciting contest.
The Indians in the Sink Hole had a drum, made of a skin stretched over a section of hollow tree, on which they beat quite constantly; and some Indian would shake a rattle, called
she-shu-qui
, probably a dried bladder with pebbles within; and even, for a moment, would venture to thrust his head in view, with his hand elevated shaking his rattle, and calling out
peash! peash!
which was understood to be a sort of defiance, or as Black Hawk, who was one of the party, says in his account of that affair, a kind of bravado to come and fight them in the Sink Hole. When the Indians would creep up and shoot over the rim of the Sink Hole, they would instantly disappear, and while they sometimes fired effectual shots, they in turn became occasionally the victims of our rifles. From about one to four o'clock in the afternoon, the firing was inconstant, our men generally reserving their fire till an Indian would show his head, and all of us were studying how he could more effectually attack and dislodge the enemy.
At length Lieut. Spears suggested that a pair of cart wheels, axle and tongue.
Our hope all along had been, that the Indians would emerge from their covert, and attempt to retreat to where we supposed their canoes were left, some three or four miles distant, in which case we were firmly determined to rush upon them, and endeavor to cut them totally off. The men generally evinced the greatest bravery during the whole engagement. Night now coming on, and having heard the reports of half a dozen or so of guns in the direction of the fort, by a few Indians who rushed out from the woods skirting Bob's Creek, not more than forty rods from the north end of the fort. This movement on the part of the few Indians who had escaped when the others took refuge in the Sink Hole, was evidently designed to divert the attention of the whites, and alarm them for the safety of the fort, and thus effectually relieve the Indians in the Sink Hole. This was the result, for Capt. Musick and men retired to the fort, carrying the dead and wounded, and made every preparation to repel a night attack. As the Mississippi was quite high, with much back water over the low grounds, the approach of the enemy was thus facilitated, and it was feared a large Indian force was at hand. The people were always more apprehensive of danger at a time when the river was swollen, than when at its ordinary stage.
The men in the fort were mostly up all night, ready for resistance, if necessary. There was no physician at the fort, and much effort was made to set some broken bones. There was a well in the fort, and provisions and ammunition sufficient to sustain a pretty formidable attack. The women were greatly alarmed, pressing their infants to their bosoms, fearing they might not be permitted to behold another morning's light; but the night passed away without seeing or hearing an Indian. The next morning a party went to the Sink Hole, and found the Indians gone, who had carried off all their dead and wounded, except five dead bodies left on the north-west bank of the Sink Hole; and by the signs of blood within the Sink Hole, it was judged that well nigh thirty of the enemy must have been killed and wounded. Lieut. Drakeford Gray's report of the affair, made eight of our party killed, one missing, and five wounded—making a total of fourteen; I had thought the number was nearer twenty. Our dead were buried near the fort, when Capt. Musick and his men went over to Cape au Gris, where they belonged, and of which garrison Capt. Musick had the command. We that day sent out scouts, while I proceeded to St. Charles to procure medical and surgical assistance, and sent forward Drs. Hubbard and Wilson.
St. Charles
, the capital of St. Charles county, is on the northern bank of the Missouri River, 18 miles from its mouth, and about 20 by land from St. Louis. The first settlement of St. Charles dates back to the year 1764,
Boonville
, a flourishing town, the county seat of Cooper county, is on the S. bank of Missouri River, 48 miles N.W. from Jefferson City. It has important commercial advantages, which have drawn to it the principal trade of S.W. Missouri, of a portion of Arkansas, and the Cherokee Nation. It has a healthy situation, and is surrounded by a rich farming region. Grapes are cultivated here to some extent. Iron, lead, stone coal, marble and limestone are abundant in the vicinity. The New Mexico or Santa Fe trade is said to have first begun at Boonville, or Old Franklin, as early as 1824. Population about 4,000.
Ironton
, the county seat of Iron county, is on the line of the Iron Mountain Railroad, 87 miles from St. Louis. The county abounds in mineral wealth, iron, marble, copper, and lead, and the town, containing some few hundred inhabitants, is becoming quite a summer resort from its excellent medicinal springs.
Potosi
is one of the oldest towns in the state, having been settled in 1763, by Messrs. Renault and Moses. It is near the line of the Iron Mountain Railroad, 54 miles from St. Louis. It is the county seat of Washington, and has been long noted as the seat of the richest of lead mines. The town has about 700 inhabitants.
The famous
Mine a Burton
, at this place, was the most important and principal discovery made in Missouri under Spanish authority. It took its name from M. Burton, a Frenchman, who, while hunting in this quarter, found the ore lying on the surface of the ground. This was about the year 1780. Hon. Thos. H. Benton gives this account of Mr. Burton from personal knowledge, and published it in the St. Louis Enquirer of October 16, 1818:
He is a Frenchman from the north of France. In the forepart of the last century, he served in the low countries under the orders of Marshal Saxe. He was at the siege of
Bergen-op zoom
, and assisted in the assault of that place when it was assailed by a division of Marshal Saxe's army, under the command of Count Lowendahl. He has also seen service upon the continent. He was at the building of Fort Chartres, on the American bottom, afterward went to Fort Du Quesne (now Pittsburg), and was present at Braddock's defeat. From the life of a soldier, Burton passed to that of a hunter, and in that character, about half a & century ago, while pursuing a bear to the west of the Mississippi, he discovered the rich lead mines which have borne his name ever since. His present age can not be ascertained. He was certainly an
old soldier
at Fort Chartres, when some of the people of the present day were little children at that place. The most moderate computation will make him one hundred and six. He now lives in the family of Mr. Micheaux, at the Little Rock ferry, three miles above Ste. Genevieve, and walks to that village almost every Sunday to attend Mass. He is what we call a square built man, of five feet eight inches high, full chest and forehead; his sense of seeing and hearing somewhat impaired, but free from disease, and apparently able to hold out against time for many years to come.
In 1797, Moses Austin, a native of Connecticut, who afterward became identified with the history of Texas, explored the country about Mine a Burton, and.obtained a grant of a league square from the Spanish government, in consideration of erecting a reverberating furnace and other works, for the purpose of prosecuting the mining business at these mines.
“Associated with Mr. Austin, was his son Stephen F. Austin, who, in 1798, commenced operations, erected a suitable furnace for smelting the “ashes of lead,” and sunk the first regular shaft for raising ore. These improvements revived the mining business, and drew to the country many American families, who settled in the neighborhood of the mines. The next year a shot-tower was built on the pinnacle of the cliff near Herculaneum, under the superintendence of Mr. Elias Bates, and patent shot were made. A manufactory of sheet lead was completed the same year, and the Spanish arsenals at New Orleans and Havana, received a considerable part of their supplies for the Spanish navy from these mines.”
Hermann
, capital of Gasconade county, is on the line of the Pacific Railroad, 81 miles from St. Louis. It was first settled in 1837, by the German Settlement Society, of Philadelphia. The place and vicinity are noted for the culture of the grape, being second only to Cincinnati. A good year's growth of the grape will yield over 100,000 gallons of wine, worth from $1 25 to $2 per gallon.
There are in the state a large number of towns of from 1,000 to 3,000 inhabitants, beside those described. These are among them:
Canton
, in Lewis county, 175 miles N.E. from Jefferson City.
Carondolet
, on the Iron Mountain Railroad, 6 miles from St. Louis. This is an old town, settled half a century since, and named from one of its early settlers, Baron De Carondolet.
Chillicothe
, the county seat of Livingston, is 129 miles west of Hannibal, on the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad.
Columbia
, the county seat of Boone, 33 miles N.N.W. from Jefferson City, and is the seat of the State University and of two colleges.
Fulton
, county seat of Callaway, is 24 miles N.E. from Jefferson City. Here is located Westminster College and the State Lunatic and Deaf and Dumb Asylums.
Glasgow
is in Howard county, on the left bank of the Missouri, 60 miles N.W. of Jefferson City.
La Grange
is on the Mississippi, in Lewis county, 104 N.N.E. of Jefferson City.
Louisiana
is on the left bank of the Mississippi, 82 miles N.E. of Jefferson City.
Palmyra
, the county seat of Marion, on the Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad, 14 miles from Hannibal, has two colleges and two academies, and is considered the most beautiful town of northern Missouri.
St. Genevieve
, the capital of St. Genevieve county, is situated on the W. bank of the Mississippi, 72 miles below St. Louis, and 117 S.E. from Jefferson City. St. Genevieve exports large quantities of copper, lead, limestone, marble, and white sand; the latter article is of superior quality, being used in the glass works of Boston and Pittsburg. It is noted as the oldest town in Missouri, having been settled by a few French families in 1751.
Tipton
is in Moniteau county, 38 miles from Jefferson City.
Washington
is in Franklin county, on the line of the Pacific Railroad, 54 miles from St. Louis.
Huntsville
, county seat of Randolph, is on the North Missouri Railroad, 160 miles N.W. from St. Louis: near it is Mount Pleasant College.
Mound City
, or Hudson, is at the junction of the North Missouri and Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroads, 168 miles from St. Louis.
Mexico
, the county seat of Audrian, is on the North Missouri Railroad, 50 miles N.E. from Jefferson City.
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, MISCELLANIES, ETC.
Gen. William Clark
was born in Virginia in Aug., 1770, and in 1784 removed, with his father's family, to the Falls of the Ohio, now the site of Louisville, where his brother, the distinguished Gen. George Rogers Clark, had a short time previously established a fort. In 1793, he was appointed by Washington lieutenant of riflemen. “In 1803 he was tendered by Mr. Jefferson the appointment of captain of engineers, to assume joint command with Captain Merriwether Lewis, of the North-western Expedition to the Pacific Ocean. This was accepted, and the party left St. Louis in March, 1804, for the vast and then, unexplored regions between the Mississippi River and the ocean, under the joint command of himself and Lewis, they being, by a special regulation to that effect, equal in rank. On this perilous expedition, he was the principal military director, while Lewis, assisted by himself, was the scientific manager. Gen. Clark then kept and wrote the Journal, which has since been published, and assisted Lewis in all his celestial observations, when they were together. On their return to St. Louis from the Pacific Ocean, in the fall of 1806, Capt. Lewis was appointed governor of the territory then designated as Upper Louisiana, and the place of lieutenant-colonel of infantry was offered to Gen. (then Capt.) Clark: but he preferred the place of Indian agent at St. Louis, having become, by his intercourse with the various tribes on the Missouri, well acquainted with the proper course to be pursued toward them; and he remained in this office until he was made brigadier general for the Territory of Upper Louisiana, under the laws of congress. During the late war with Great Britain he was applied to by the war department to revise the plan of the campaign then going on under Gen. Hull, and was offered the appointment of brigadier general in the United States army, and the command then held by
Hull; these, however, he refused, being convinced that the operations of this officer were too far advanced to be successfully remedied. In 1813, President Madison appointed him in place of Gov. Howard, resigned, governor of the territory and superintendent of Indian affairs, after he had twice refused to be nominated to the first office. He held both these offices until Missouri was admitted into the Union as a state ir 1820. Upon her admission, he was nominated against his consent as a candidate for governor, but was not elected, being in Virginia at the time of election. He then remained in private life until 1822, when he was appointed by President Monroe, superintendent of Indian affairs. As commissioner and superintendent of Indian affairs for it long series of years, he made treaties with almost every tribe of Indians, and exhibited to all of them the feelings of philanthropist, as well as a becoming zeal for the rights of the government of his country. He was applied to, to accept the office of United States senator from Missouri, but declined, believing that he could more efficiently serve his country, and the cause of humanity in the Indian department than in the national halls of legislation. He was the youngest of six brothers, the four oldest of whom were distinguished officers ir the Revolutionary war. One of them fell in the struggle; another was killed by the Indians upon the Wabash, and his brother, Gen. George Rogers Clark, is well known to the people of the west. The early history of Kentucky is identified with his, and as long as that noble and proud state maintains her lofty eminence, she will cherish his name. Gen. Clark was a resident of St. Louis for more than thirty years, and died there in September, 1838, aged 68 years.” —
Blake's Biog. Dict.
Gov. Benjamin Howard
was born in Virginia. From 1807 to 1810, he was a representative in Congress from Kentucky, when he was appointed governor of Missouri Territory. In 1813, he resigned the latter office being appointed brigadier general in the U. S. service. This was the period of the war with Great Britain and he was in command of the 8th military department, then embracing all the territory from the interior of Indiana to the Mexican frontier. He died after two days illness, at St. Louis, in Sept., 1814. He was a brave and patriotic man, and his loss was sincerely felt. Several forts in the west have been named from him.
Hon. Lewis F. Linn
was born near Louisville, Ky., in 1795, and was educated to medicine, which he practiced after his removal to Missouri. From 1833 to 1843, he was a senator in congress from Missouri, and died Oct,. 3d, in the last named year
Hon. Thomas Hart Benton
“was born in Hillsborough, North Carolina, March 14, 1782, and educated at Chapel Hill College. He left that institution without receiving a degree, and forthwith commenced the study of law in William and Mary College, Virginia, under Mr. St. George Tucker. In 1810, he entered the United States army, but soon resigned his commission of lieutenant-colonel, and in 1811 was at Nashville, Tenn., where he commenced the practice of the law. He soon afterward emigrated to St. Louis, Mo., where he connected himself with the press as the editor of a newspaper, the Missouri Argus. In 1820, he was elected a member of the United States senate, serving as chairman of many important committees, and remained in that body till the session of 1851, at which time he failed of re-election. As Missouri was not admitted into the Union till August 10, 1821, more than a year of Mr. Benton's first term of service expired before he took his seat. He occupied himself during this interval before taking his seat in congress in acquiring a knowledge of the language and literature of Spain. Immediately after he appeared in the senate he took a prominent part in the deliberations of that body, and rapidly rose to eminence and distinction. Few public measures were discussed between the years 1821 and 1851 that he did not participate in largely, and the influence he wielded was always felt and confessed by the country. He was one of the chief props and supporters of the administrations of Presidents Jackson and Van Buren. The people of Missouri long clung to him as their apostle and leader; and it required persevering effort to defeat him. But he had served them during the entire period of thirty years without interruption, and others, who aspired to honors he enjoyed, became impatient for an opportunity to supplant him. His defeat was the consequence. Col. Benton was distinguished for his
learning, iron will, practical mind, and strong memory. As a public speaker he was not interesting or calculated to produce an effect on the passions of an audience, but his speeches were read with avidity, always producing a decided influence. He was elected a representative in the thirty-third congress for the district of St. Louis, and on his retirement from public life devoted himself to the preparation of a valuable register of the debates in congress, upon which he labored until his death, which occurred in Washington on the 10th of April, 1858, of cancer in the stomach.” —
Lanman's Dict. of Congress.
EXPULSION OF THE MORMONS FROM MISSOURI.
[From Perkins' Annals of the West.]
From the time of Rigdon's conversion, in October, 1830, the progress of Mormonism was wonderfully rapid, he being a man of more than common capacity and cunning. Kirtland, Ohio, became the chief city for the time being, while large numbers went to Missouri in consequence of revelations to that effect. In July, 1833, the number of Mormons in Jackson county, Missouri, was over 1,200. Their increase having produced some anxiety among the neighboring settlers, a meeting was held in the month just named, from whence emanated resolutions forbidding all Mormons thenceforth to settle in that county, and intimating that all who did not soon remove of their own will would be forced to do so. Among the resolutions was one requiring the Mormon newspaper to be stopped, but as this was not at once complied with the office of the paper was destroyed. Another large meeting of the citizens being held, the Mormons became alarmed and contracted to remove. Before this contract, however, could be complied with, violent proceedings were again resorted to; houses were destroyed, men whipped, and at length some of both parties were killed. The result was a removal of the Mormons across the Missouri into Clay county.
These outrages being communicated to the Prophet at Kirtland, he took steps to bring about a great gathering of his disciples, with which, marshaled as an army, in May, 1834, he started for Missouri, which in due time he reached, but
The Mormons, or Latter-day Saints, held two views which they were fond of dwelling upon, and which were calculated to alarm and excite the people of the frontier. One was, that the west was to be their inheritance, and that the unconverted dwellers upon the lands about them were to be destroyed, and the saints to succeed to their property. The destruction spoken of was to be, as Smith taught, by the hand of God; but those who were threatened naturally enough concluded that the Mormons might think themselves instruments in His hand to work the change they foretold and desired. They believed also, with or without reason, that the saints, anticipating, like many other heirs, the income of their inheritance, helped themselves to what they needed of food and clothing; or, as the world called it, were arrant thieves.
The other offensive view was, the descent of the Indians from the Hebrews, taught by the Book of Mormon, and their ultimate restoration to their share in the inheritance of the faithful: from this view, the neighbors were easily led to infer a union of the saints and savages to desolate the frontier. Looking with suspicion upon the new sect, and believing them to be already rogues and thieves, the inhabitants of Carroll and Davis counties were of course opposed to their possession of the chief political influence, such as they already possessed in Caldwell, and from the fear that they would acquire more, arose the first open quarrel. This took place in August, 1838, at an election in Davis county, where their right of suffrage was disputed. The affray which ensued being exaggerated, and some severe cuts and bruises being converted into mortal wounds by the voice of rumor, a number of the Mormons of Caldwell county went to Diahmond, and after learning the facts, by force or persuasion induced a magistrate of Davis, known to be a leading opponent of theirs, to sign a promise not to molest them any more by word or deed. For this Joe Smith and Lyman Wight were arrested and held to trial. By this time the prejudices and fears of both parties were fully aroused; each anticipated violence from the other, and to prevent it each proceeded to violence. The Mormons of Caldwell, legally organized, turned out to preserve the peace; and the Anti-Mormons of Davis, Carroll and Livingston, acting upon the sacred principle of self-defense, armed and embodied themselves for the same commendable purpose Unhappily, in this case, as in many similar ones, the preservation of peace was ill confided to men moved by mingled fear and hatred; and instead of it, the opposing forces produced plunderings, burnings, and bloodshed, which did not terminate until Governor Boggs, ou the 27th of October,
authorized Gen. Clark, with the full military power of the state, to exterminate or drive from Missouri, if he thought necessary, the unhappy followers of Joe Smith. Against the army, 3,500 strong, thus brought to annihilate them, and which was evidently not a mob, the 1,400 Mormons made no resistance; 300 fled, and the remainder surrendered. The leaders were examined and held to trial, bail being refused; while the mass of the unhappy people were stripped of their property to pay the expenses of the war, and driven, men, women, and children, in mid winter, from the state, naked and starving. Multitudes of them were forced to encamp without tents, and with scarce any clothes or food, on the bank of the Mississippi, which was too full of ice for them to cross. The people of Illinois, however, received the fugitives whenreligious
views appear to have had little or nothing to do with the opposition experienced by them in Missouri.
THE IRON MINES OF MISSOURI.
No country on the globe, of the same extent, equals Missouri in the quantity of iron. “The metalliferous region of Missouri covers an area of at least 20,000 square miles, or about 12,800,000 acres, and the same formation extends southward into Arkansas and westward into the territories. In this great region is a uniformity of mineral character as unusal as the great extent of the deposits. The whole country is composed of lower magnesian limestone, and bean lead throughout its entire extent and in numerous localities, iron mines of great value exist. The ore is massive, generally found or or near the surface, and of remark able purity. Among the most remarkable of these iron formations is the celebrated Iron Mountain, in St. Francis county, near Potosi, and about 80 miles south from St. Louis by the
Iron Mountain
Railroad and 30 west of the Mississippi River. On account of the difficulty of transportation, and the prevailing impression that the ore from the Iron Mountain could not be smelted, it remained unproductive till the formation of the Iron Mountain Company, in 1845. It now furnishes the chief material for the St. Louis rolling-mill, and is the principal support of the iron manufactures of Missouri.
Pilot Knob.
One of the Iron Mountains, and rising to the hight of five hundred an eighty-one feet.
The mountain is the south-western termination of a ridge of porphyritic rocks. It is of a conical shape, flattened at the top, and slopes toward the west. It is made up exclusively of specular oxide of iron, the most abundant and valuable ore in the state, in its purest form, containing no perceptible quantity of other mineral substances except a little less than one per cent. of silica, which, according to Dr. Ditton, who made an analysis of the ore four or five years ago, rather improves than injures its quality. The quantity of the ore is inexhaustible, and for most purposes, its quality requires no improvement.
The area of the Iron Mountain covers an extent of some five hundred acres. It rises to the hight of two hundred and sixty feet above the general level of the surrounding country. Its whole top is a solid mass of iron, and one can see nothing but iron lumps as far as the eye can reach. The ore of this mountain is known as the specular oxide, and usually yields some sixty-eight or seventy percent of pure iron, and so free from injurious substances as to present no obstacle to working it directly into blooms. The metal is so excellent that much of it is now used by the manufacturers on the Ohio River, for mixing with the ore found there. There are in operation at the mountain three blast furnaces, producing from seven thousand to seven thousand five hundred tuns of metal annually. Besides this immense deposit of ore above the surface, a shaft sunk at the base of the mountain gives fifteen feet of clay and ore, thirty feet of white sandstone, thirty-three feet of blue porphyry, and fifty-three feet of pure iron ore. This bed of mineral would be immensely valuable if there was none above the surface.
“About six miles south and a little east of the Iron Mountain are deposits of ore no less rich, and scarcely less extensive. These are chiefly in
Pilot Knob
and
Shepherd Mountain.
The Pilot Knob ore is different from all other ore of the neighborhood, both in appearance and in composition. It is of finer grain, and more compact, and breaks with a gray, steel-like fracture. It contains from ten to twenty per cent. of silica, which renders it more readily fusible, and better fitted for some purposes. The Knob is a very striking feature in the landscape. Rising almost perpendicularly five hundred and eighty-one feet on a base of three hundred and sixty acres, and almost wholly isolated, it has long served as a land-mark to the pioneers of Missouri. Hence its name. A very large portion of the mountain is pure iron. It is somewhat difficult to estimate the quantity of the ore, on account of its being interstratified with slate. The rocks about the base of the mountain are dark gray, silicious and slaty. At a hight of three hundred feet they show more traces of iron. At a hight of four hundred and forty-one feet there is a stratum of pure ore, from nineteen to twenty-four feet thick. Beneath and above this are beds of ore mixed with the silicious rocks. It is estimated that the amount of ore above the surface is not less than 13,872,773 tuns, and probably much more. Its igneous origin is not certain, but probable; and hence it is probable that it extends downward to an indefinite extent, according to the well-founded theory of geologists.
Shepherd Mountain, which is a little more than a mile south-west of Pilot Knob, rises to a hight of 660 feet on a base of 800 acres. It is penetrated with veins or dykes of ore, running in different directions, but mostly vertical, and of indefinite extent.
From the mine, which is worked at about 500 feet from the top of Pilot Knob, the ore is carried in cars on a railway running down the side of the mountain, on a fearfully steep inclined plane. Upon this plane we climbed laboriously to the mine and then ascended to the flagstaff, firmly fastened among the rocks, on the topmost peak; which are so well worn by the feet of strangers that they present the appearance of pure wrought iron, which is hardly remarkable in view of the fact that horse-shoes and knives have been repeatedly made from the crude ore, merely by hammering.
When we state, on the authority of Prof. Swallow, that. there is enough ore, of the very best quality, within a few miles of Pilot Knob and Iron Mountain, above the surface of the valleys, not reckoning the vast deposits that lie beneath, to furnish one million tuns per annum of manufactured iron for two hundred years, some estimate may he formed of the vast advantages that must accrue to Missouri from the possession of so rich a store of that indispensable metal, which, greater in its power even than gold, has always stood pre-eminent in its influence on the prosperity of nations, seeming, as it were, to communicate to those who own and manufacture it some of its own hardy and sterling qualities.”
The mines of Elba, Sweden, and Norway, all together do not equal these peaks. The substantial wealth of England and Belgium is drawn from their mines, but neither of them possess the mineral wealth, the iron, lead, coal, tin and copper of this single state.
Gen. James Wilkinson
was born in Maryland about the year 1757, was educated to medicine, entered the army of the Revolution, and was breveted brigadier general. After the war he settled in Kentucky in commercial business. Again entering the army, he had command of the United States forces in the Mississippi valley. In the war of 1812, he served on the northern frontier. He died in 1825, aged 68. He published “Memoirs of My Own Times,” 3 vols. 8vo., 1816.
Major Amos Stoddard
, the first American governor of Upper Louisiana, was born in Woodbury, Conn., and was a soldier of the Revolution. He was subsequently clerk of the supreme court in Boston, also practiced law at Hallowell, Maine. In 1799, he entered the army as captain of artillery. About the year 1804, he was appointed first military commandant and civil governor of Upper Louisiana, his headquarters being St. Louis. He died of lockjaw in 1813, from a wound received at the siege of Fort Meigs. He was a man of talent, and was the author of Sketches of Louisiana, a valuable work.
Kansas,
prior to 1854, was included within the limits of the “Indian Territory,” lying west of Missouri and the adjoining states. It was thus called from the circumstance of its being the territory on which several tribes of Indians, mainly from east of the Mississippi, were located under the direction of the general government. The principal tribes thus placed within the present limits of Kansas, were the Delawares, who were estimated at upward of 800 in number; the Kickapoos, at about 900; and the Shawnees, at about 1,300: the Kansas, one of the original tribes of this region, were located on Kansas River, farther westward, and were supposed to number about 2,000.
The first white man who traversed the soil of Kansas appears to have been M. Dutisne, a French officer, sent in 1719, by Bienville, the governor of Louisiana, to explore the territory west of the Mississippi. He passed up Osage River, a southern tributary of the Missouri, and visited several Indian villages within the present limits of Kansas.
In 1804, Lewis and Clark, on their celebrated Rocky Mountain expedition, passed up the Missouri River, on the eastern boundary of Kansas. The oldest fort on this river is Fort Leavenworth, which was established in 1827. This, with the missionary establishments among the Indians, were the first places in Kansas regularly occupied by the whites.
“The aboriginal Indians, with the exception of the Pawnees, are still in possession of the central and western districts of Kansas. A hundred years ago, of all the prairie tribes, the Pawnees were the most powerful, but they are now dwindled away numerically, and are among the most insignificant in wealth and reputed valor. According to Dutisne, they were divided into four villages: the Republican, Loup, Tappage, and Grand Pawnees, with an aggregate population of 25,000. Fifty years ago, they held sway over the whole broad domain of the Platte River and the Republican Fork of the Kansas. The Missouris, Puncahs, Ottoes and Omahas paid them tribute, and lived under their protection. In 1832, the small pox reduced their force one half. Thus enfeebled, they entered into a treaty with the United States, disposing of their Kansas possessions, and agreed to reside wholly north of the Nebraska River and west of Missouri.” Here, under the patronage of government, they erected dwellings, shops, etc., and commenced agricultural improvements. Their young men, however, formed war parties, and committed depredations upon the tribes around them. They were severely
“The whole Indian population of Kansas,” says Mr. Greene, in his History of the Kansas region, 1856, “is probably 25,000. The immigrant tribes are the Kickapoos, Wyandots, Sacs and Foxes, Munsees, Weas and Plankeshaws, Peorias and Kaskaskias, Ottawas, Pottowatamies, Chippewas, Delawares, and Shawnees; embracing in all a population of about 5,000, and including within their reservations, prior to the treaties of 1853 and '54, almost ten millions of acres. A million of acres were ceded by the Delawares, Weas and Kickapoos, in May, 1853, to be sold at auction. The Shawnee Reserve embraces thirty miles west of the Missouri line and fifteen south of Kansas River. The Wyandots have thirty sections in the angle formed by the confluence of the Kansas and Missouri. The Delawares retain a tract ten miles wide and forty long, extending east from the mouth of Grasshopper Creek. The Pottawatomies own thirty miles square, cut through the middle by Kansas River. The Kickapoos have a small reserve at the head of the Grasshopper. North of the river and below Pottawatomie, the Kansas still hold a tract twenty-two miles long and one wide.”
In 1820, on the admission of Missouri into the Union, the congress of the United States passed the “Missouri Compromise” act, prohibiting slavery in all territory of the United States north of 36° 30′. Kansas being north of this line was included within the limits of the prohibition. In 1854, on the organization of the Territories of Kansas and Nebraska, congress, after an exciting discussion, passed the “Kansas and Nebraska bill,” which in effect rendered nugatory the Compromise Act of 1820. This at once opened up a contest between slave-holders and free-soil men for possession. The richest part of Missouri, that most densely filled with a slave population, lay adjacent to the soil of Kansas. Were Kansas to become free territory the people feared that there would be no security in western Missouri for slavery. They determined, therefore, to introduce and fasten the institution in Kansas.
The passage of the Kansas Nebraska bill had agitated the whole country, and widely spread the information of the fine climate and rich soil of Kansas: this excited the desire of multitudes of the citizens of the free states to emigrate thither, introduce their institutions, open farms on its virgin soil, and found new homes for themselves and their children in the beautiful prairie land. The conflict which ensued between the pro-slavery and the free-soil parties was inevitable.
Soon as the tidings of the passage of the Kansas-Nebraska bill reached western Missouri, some thousands of the people crossed over the borders and selected farms, and for a while they had the control of the political movements in the territory, ere the van of the free state emigrants could reach it.
Many of the latter came hither in bodies, neighbors joining together for that purpose, and in Massachusetts, an Emigrant Aid Society was created, for (it was alleged) pecuniary gain, by the means of organized capital in forming centers for settlers. * The Emigrant Aid Society was originally formed in Massachusetts, May 4, 1854, just before the passage of the Kansas-Nebraska bill. In the succeeding February a new charter was obtained, in which the objects of the society were declared to be “For the purposes of directing emigration westward, and aiding in providing accommodations for the emigrants after arriving at their places of destination.” The total capital was about $100,000. The plan was to give fixed centers for emigrants, with mills, schools, and churches, and thus to benefit the stockholders by the opportunities which the application of associated capital would give in the rapid rise of the real estate around these centers. Emigrants under it provided their own expenses; but by going in companies had the advantages of traveling at reduced rates. The great bulk of emigration was not, however, from distant New England, but from the hardy population of the north-west, familiar with pioneer life and inured to its hardships.
A. H. Reeder, the first governor of the territory, and appointed by President Pierce, arrived at Fort Leavenworth, Oct. 6, 1854, and soon after visited Lawrence, where he was met by the citizens, and was welcomed in an address by Gen. Pomeroy. The governor stated in his reply that, as far as possible, he should maintain law and order, and preserve the freedom of speech. The first election of a delegate to congress took place Nov. 29, 1854. The territory was divided into nineteen districts. Gov. Reeder, who resided at Fort Leavenworth, appointed election judges, and gave instructions to have the vote properly taken. It appears, however, that an organized body of Missourians, in some instances, took forcible possession of the polls, and elected Gen. Whitfield as a delegate. In the election for the territorial legislature, on March 30, 1855, large organized bodies from Missouri controlled the polls, appointing their own judges, where those previously appointed would not conform to their wishes. In consequence of this, every district (with one exception) returned pro-slavery men to the prospective legislature.
The legislature met on the 2d of July, at Pawnee, according to the proclamation of the governor, and was organized by the election of D. S. Stringfellow as speaker. In the course of the first week they passed an act removing the seat of government from Pawnee to the Shawnee Manual Labor School, to take effect from and after its passage: they also passed an act adopting the laws generally of Missouri as the laws of Kansas. On the 6th of July, the governor vetoed the act removing the seat of government. It was, however, passed over his veto by a two thirds vote, and the two legislative houses met at the Shawnee Mission on the 16th of July. On July 25, in a joint session, they elected the various county officers for a term of
six years.
Various other extraordinary and unusual acts were passed.
* “Among their labors were an act to fix the seat of government at Lecompton; acts making it a capital offense to assist slaves in escaping either into the territory or out of it, and felony, punishable with imprisonment at hard labor from two to five years, to conceal or aid escaping slaves, to circulate anti-slavery publications, or to deny the right to hold slaves in the territory; an act giving the right to vote to all persons who had paid a poll tax of one dollar, whether residents or not; an act requiring all voters, officers, and attorneys, to take an oath to support the fugitive slave law and the acts of this legislature; and an act giving the selection of jurors to the sheriff. They also adopted the Missouri laws in a heap.”
Gov. Reeder and Judge Elmer, of the supreme court, having been removed by the general government, Wilson Shannon, an ex-governor of Ohio, was appointed governor, and Judge Moore, of Alabama, succeeded Judge Elmer. On Sept. 5, 1855, a free state convention met at Big Springs, which resolved to repudiate all the acts passed by the legislature held at the Shawnee Mission. On the
82
In Nov., one Coleman, in a quarrel about a land claim, killed a Mr. Dow, a free state settler, at Hickory Point, about 12 miles from Lawrence. Coleman then proceeded to Lecompton, to Gov. Shannon, and swore a complaint against Branson, at whose house Dow had lodged, that Branson had threatened his (Coleman's) life. Branson was thereupon arrested by Sheriff Jones, but was rescued by his neighbors, and took refuge in Lawrence. These transactions caused great excitement. The people of Lawrence armed as an attack was threatened. Gov. Shannon issued his proclamation, stating an open rebellion had commenced, and calling for assistance to carry out the laws: this was circulated through the border counties of Missouri, volunteer companies were raised, and nearly 1,800 men crossed over from Missouri, having with them seven pieces of cannon, obtained from the U. S. arsenal near Liberty, Mo. This formidable array encamped at Wakerusa, over against Lawrence, which was now threatened with destruction. Gov. Shannon, Chief Justice Lecompte and David R. Atchison accompanied the troops. For more than a week the invading force continued encamped, and a deadly conflict seemed imminent. Fortunately for the peace of the country, a direct conflict was avoided by an amicable arrangement. The invading army retired from Lawrence, Dec. 9, 1855.
In Dec., 1855, the Topeka constitution was adopted by a vote of the people, and state officers were appointed. On Jan. 4, 1856, in a message, Gov. Shannon indorsed the pro-slavery legislature and code, and represented the formation of the Topeka constitution as equivalent to an act of rebellion. This was followed by a proclamation, on Feb. 4th, directed against the free state men, and on the strength of it, indictments for treason were found against Charles Robinson, Geo. W. Brown, ex-Gov. Reeder, Gen. Lane, Geo. W. Deitzler, and others, connected with the formation of the free state government. Robinson, Brown, Deitzler, and many others, were arrested and imprisoned at Lecompton during the entire summer, guarded by the United States' dragoons.
In March, 1856, the house of representatives, at Washington, having under consideration the conflicting claims of Gov. Reeder and Gov. Whitfield to represent Kansas in congress, appointed a commission to investigate the fact. This committee consisted of Howard, of Michigan, Sherman, of Ohio, and Oliver, of Missouri, who, being directed to proceed to Kansas, arrived at Lawrence on the 17th of April. While in Kansas this “congressional committee of investigation” collected a large mass of testimony which went to prove that frauds had been perpetrated by the pro-slavery party at the ballot box, also that many outrages had been committed, in which the free state settlers were principally the sufferers.
Early in April, 1856, two or three hundred pro-slavery men, from Georgia and the Carolinas, arrived in the territory, under the command of Maj. Buford, of Georgia. On the 24th of April, Sheriff Jones entered Lawrence and arrested several free state men. On the 8th of May, Gov. Robinson, while descending the Missouri on his way east, was seized and detained at Lexington, Mo., and afterward sent back to Kansas on the charge of treason. Gov. Reeder and Gen. Lane, being indicted on the same charge, succeeded in making their escape out of the territory. On the 21st of May, Sheriff Jones, with a posse of some four or five hundred men, proceeded to Lawrence, ostensibly for the purpose of executing the process of the courts. Several pieces of artillery and about 200 of Sharp's rifles were taken, two printing presses, with a large quantity of material, were destroyed, and the Free State Hotel and Dr. Robinson's mansion were burnt as nuisances. On the 26th, a skirmish occurred at Ossawatomie, in which three free state and five pro-slavery men were killed. The free state men now began to make a concerted and armed resistance to the pro-slavery bands which were spread over the country. Parties of free state emigrants coming up the Missouri, were turned back, and forbid entering the territory, so that their only ingress into Kansas was overland through Iowa. For months civil war prevailed, and the settlers were distressed by robberies, murders, house burnings, the destruction of crops, and other atrocities.
The free state legislature, according to the time fixed, met at Topeka, July 4, 1856. As they were about organizing for business, Col. Sumner (who was accompanied by a body of U. S. dragoons), went into the hall, and claiming to act under the authority of the president of the United States, dispersed the assemblage. On the 5th of Aug., a body of men from Lawrence marched against a post, near Ossawatomie, occupied by a company of marauders, said to be Georgians. After a conflict of three hours, the post, a large block-house, was carried with a loss of one or two killed, and several wounded on both sides. Other conflicts took place in other places, attended with loss of life. Gov. Shannon was removed early in August, and acting Gov. Woodson, on the 25th of that month, issued a proclamation declaring the territory in a state of rebellion.
Gov. Geary, the successor of Gov. Shannon, arrived in the territory about the 1st of Sept., and by proclamation ordered all the volunteer militia to be discharged, and all bodies of men acting without the authority of government, instantly to disband or quit the territory. After this the outrages and skirmishes rapidly diminished, and order was gradually restored.
The next season, the pro-slavery party, at a convention held at Lecompton, formed a state constitution, familiarly known as the
Lecompton Constitution
, and in the session of 1857–8, applied to congress for admission into the Union. Great opposition was made to it on the ground that the convention which formed it was fraudulently elected, and did not represent the will of the people, as it was favorable to slavery. After a long and memorable struggle, the instrument was referred to the people of Kansas, on the 4th of Aug., 1858. They rejected it by a vote of more than six to one—11,300 against to 1,788 votes in favor.
To this period the party lines in Kansas had been divided between the pro-slavery and the free state men. Soon after, these distinctions gave place to the Democratic and Republican parties. The next territorial legislature met in Jan., 1859, and the Republicans, having the majority, took measures by which a convention met at Wyandot, in the succeeding July, and formedWyandot Constitution
, which prohibited slavery. This constitution, on reference to the people, was adopted by a large majority. The lower house of congress, in the succeeding session, 1859–60, passed the bill, but the senate failed to act upon it, so it was lost. Kansas, therefore, remained in a territorial condition until January 30th, 1861, when it was admitted as a free state of the Union. The severe contest in regard to the institutions of Kansas was thus closed, only, however, to give place to a more terrible struggle, involving the whole nation.
Kansas is bounded N. by Nebraska, E. by Missouri, S. by the Indian Territory, and W. by Colorado Territory. It extends between the parallels of 37° 30′ and 40° N. Lat., and 94° 30′ and 102° W. Long.
South view of Fort Leavenworth.
The view is taken from a point near the residence of the Chaplain. The block-house, which appears near the central part, is the oldest building standing in Kansas. It is pierced for musketry and cannon; the lower part is constructed of brick, the upper of logs, etc. The barrack buildings appear beyond; the Quartermaster's building is seen on the right.
The eastern part of Kansas is one of the most beautiful and fertile sections of country found in the United States. It consists, for the most part, of rolling prairies, having a deep, rich and fertile soil. The smooth and graceful hills, covered with dense vegetation, extend westward from the Missouri about 200 miles, having, in many places, the appearance of a vast sea of grass and flowers. The timber is principally in the vicinity of the rivers and streams, but a remarkable provision exists in the abundance of limestone found on the crest of all the elevations, just cropping out from the surface, hardly interfering with vegetation. This is admirably adapted for buildings and fences. Numerous coal beds are said to abound.
The Kansas or Kaw is the only stream of importance passing into the interior. The climate is healthy, the air being pure and dry. The winters are usually mild and open, with little snow. Kansas possesses very superior advantages for the raising of cattle. Almost all kinds of grain and fruits can be produced in great abundance. In March, 1855, the population was estimated, in round numbers, at 8,000; a year later it was estimated at 60,000; in 1860, it was 107,110.
Fort Leavenworth,
at present the most important military post in the United States, is situated on the west side of the Missouri River, 31 miles
South-eastern view of Leavenworth City.
The view shows the appearance of the city as seen from the Missouri side of the river. The Market House and Theater building, surmounted by a flag, is shown on the left; and the Planters' House, the Steamboat and Steam Ferry Landings on the right.
On some occasions, as many as 1,000 laborers and artisans have been employed here in the government service at one time. The buildings consist of the barracks, magazines, the officers' houses, hospital, the quartermaster's building, and others. General Persifer F. Smith, the commander of the Utah expedition, died here on Sunday evening, May 16, 1858: his remains were taken east for burial. The government has a small chapel here, in which the Rev. Leander Ker, of Scotch descent, officiates as chaplain of the post. Mr. Ker likewise has the charge of a school of 30 or 40 children, the books, stationery, etc., being furnished by the government.
During the difficulties with Utah, in 1858, the transportation establishment of the army, under Russell & Waddell, the contractors, between the fort and the city, was the great feature of this vicinity, with its acres of wagons, herds of oxen, and regiments of drivers and other employees. This firm had millions of dollars invested in the business, employed
six thousand
teamsters, and worked
forty-five thousand oxen.
Leavenworth City,
on the W. bank of Missouri River, the largest town and commercial metropolis of Kansas, is 3 miles below the fort, 37 N.E from Lawrence, 70 S. from St. Joseph, Mo., and by the Missouri River 495
Wyandot
is situated on the W. bank of the Missouri, at the mouth of Kansas River, 37 miles below Leavenworth City, and 35 E. from Lawrence. It is a new, beautiful and flourishing place, regularly laid out on ground rising gracefully from the water. Being built on the curve of the river, it is in full view from Kansas City, in Missouri, from which by water it i about a mile distant, and two miles by land: a steam ferry boat plies between the two places. It is a busy town, and the outlet between southern Kansas and the Missouri River.
Quindaro
is on the Missouri, just above Wyandot. It has a remarkably fine landing: it was laid out by Gov. Robinson on lands purchased of the Wyandots, in 1857.
Delaware City
, 8 miles below Leavenworth City;
Kickapoo
, 15 miles above;
Sumner
, 37 above;
Atchison
, 46;
Doniphan
, 41;
Geary City
, 49; and
Palermo
, 68 miles above Leavenworth, are all landing places on Missouri River—most of which are flourishing settlements.
Lawrence,
the county seat of Douglas county, is beautifully situated on the right bank of Kansas River, 45 miles W. from Kansas City, Mo., and 12 from Lecompton. The Eldridge House, 100 by 117 feet, is at this time by far the finest building in Kansas. Mount Oread is about half a mile S.W of the Eldridge House. On this elevation it is in contemplation to build a college: the view from this location, embracing a space of from 50 to 70 miles in circumference, is exceedingly beautiful. Population about 5,000.
Lawrence received its name from Amos A. Lawrence, of Boston, Mass. In July, 1854, a company of 24 persons, principally from New England, came up the Missouri River to Kansas City, and from thence traveling by land, located themselves on the site of Lawrence, the spot having been selected by Chas. H. Branscomb, agent of the Massachusetts Aid Society. In September following, a second company of about 70 persons arrived. These two companies of pioneers held their first regular meeting Sept. 16, 1854, being called to order by Dr. Robinson. A. H. Mallory was chosen president, C. S. Pratt, secretary, and a committee of six to manage the affairs of the company, viz: J. Doy, J. F. Morgan, A. H. Mallory, J. N. Nace, G. L. Osborne and L. P. Lincoln. On Sept. 20, 1854, at a meeting of the “Lawrence Association,” the following persons were chosen officers, viz: Dr. Chas. Robinson, president; Ferd. Fuller, vice president; Caleb S. Pratt, secretary; Levi Gates, jr., treasurer; Erastus D. Ladd, register; A. D. Searl, surveyor; John Mailley, Owen Taylor, John Bruce, jr., arbitrators; and Joel Grover, marshal.
Very soon after their arrival, the settlers were visited by a body of 150 Missouri borderers, ordered to strike their tents, and leave the territory to return no more. But this the people declining, the borderers left, and commenced the organization of “Blue Lodges,” to foster pro-slavery emigration.
Northern view of Lawrence.
The view shows the appearance of Lawrence as seen from the opposite bank of Kansas River, having the eye slightly elevated. The Eldridge Hotel, on Massachusetts-street, is seen on the right. A log cabin, the first structure in Lawrence, is shown near the bank. The passage down the bank to the ferry, with the Whitney and Waverly Houses above, appear on the left.
Lawrence and Leavenworth were the first towns located in Kansas. Some time in the summer of 1854, Clark Stearns, of Missouri, squatted at this place and erected a log cabin, the first structure built here (still standing at the head of Massachusetts-street). It is stated that the Lawrence Company intended to have passed on to the Big Blue River, at Manhattan, some 60 miles above. Having arrived near this spot, some of the company rode their horses to the summit of Mount Oread, to find a suitable place to encamp during the night. Discovering Stearns' cabin, and being charmed with the appearance of the country, they determined to stop here, and accordingly encamped on the present site of the Eldridge Hotel.
The first meeting for public worship was held in a building constructed of long poles united at the top, intertwined with sticks, twigs, hay, etc., and then sodded over. This was on the first Sunday after the arrival of the company. Erastus D. Ladd, of New England origin, read a sermon on the occasion. The first school was kept by Edward P. Fitch, of Massachusetts. The first framed building was erected by Rev. S. Y. Lum, of New Jersey, the first regular preacher and agent of the Home Missionary Society. The Free State Hotel (afterward burnt), the first in the place, was built by the“The Herald of Freedom,”
was issued in the fall of 1854, by G. W. Brown, from Pennsylvania. The first merchants' shops were opened by C. L. Pratt and Norman Allen, on Massachusetts-street. The first ferryman was Wm. N. Baldwin.
Lawrence will ever be a memorable spot as having been the head-quarters of the free state settlers during the “Kansas War:” it was particularly obnoxious to the contrary party, on account of the free soil sentiments of the inhabitants. On the 11th of May, 1856, Marshal Donaldson, in order to arrest several obnoxious free state men, summoned a posse, took the Georgia emigrants, under Maj. Buford, under pay, together with several hundred others. Having proceeded to Lawrence, he announced his determination to make arrests. The citizens, in a public meeting, denied the charge of having resisted the authorities of the territory. On the morning of the 21st of May, a body of about 500 men came from the camp, near Lecompton, and halted on Mount Oread, in Lawrence, near the residence of Gov. Robinson. They were headed by the U. S. Marshal Donaldson, who claimed the assembled force as his posse, they having responded to his late proclamation. They formed in line facing the north-east, and planted two cannon in range with the Free State Hotel and other large buildings in Massachusetts-street. About noon, the marshal, with a posse of ten men, arrested G. W. Deitzler, Col. Jenkins, Judge Smith, and some others, taking them as prisoners to their camp. About 3 o'clock, P.M., Sheriff Jones, accompanied by about twenty-five armed horsemen, rode up to the door of the Free State Hotel and stopped. Gen. Pomeroy, and several others, went out to meet him. The sheriff demanded that all the arms be given up to him, and said he would give them one hour for this purpose. Pomeroy then, after some consultation with the committee, delivered up several pieces of artillery. The U. S. Marshal Donaldson having dismissed his posse, they moved their two field pieces into Massachusetts-street, and were immediately summoned to the spot to act as the sheriff's posse. The sheriff then
gave information that the Free State Hotel had been presented by the grand jury of Douglas county as a nuisance, together with the two newspapers, the
Herald of Freedom and Free State
, and that Judge Lecompte wished them removed. A lone star flag having for a motto
“Southern Rights,”
was thereupon raised over these offices, the presses destroyed, and the type thrown into the river. An attempt was next made to batter down the hotel by cannon shot, but not succeeding, it was set on fire and reduced to ashes. After this, several private houses were robbed, and money, clothing, and other articles were pillaged. During the night following, the house of Gov. Robinson, on Mount Oread, having a valuable library, was set on fire and consumed. The total damage to property in Lawrence was estimated at $150,000.
During the summer, until late in the fall, civil war raged in the territory, many murders and other atrocities being committed. On the 14th of Sept., an army of 2,500 Missourians, arranged in three regiments, with five pieces of artillery, appeared before Lawrence, with threats of destruction to the town. The people threw up breastworks, and made hasty preparations for defense, but they must have been overwhelmed in case of attack. This was averted by the interference of Gov. Geary, with a body of U. S. dragoons, who threw himself between the conflicting parties, and prevailed upon the Missourians to retire to their homes.
Lecompton
is a village of about 600 inhabitants: it has a Methodist church and several land offices, and is some twelve miles westward of Lawrence, and 35 from Leavenworth. The capital was located here in August, 1855, by the territorial legislature. A fine capitol building has been commenced, the foundations laid and part of the first story reared, but owing to the failure of obtaining the necessary appropriations, the building has been suspended.
Northern view at Lecompton.
The long building seen in the central part of the view is the Masonic Hall, in the upper story of which the noted Lecompton Constitution was formed. The lower story, and most of the other buildings represented, are used for land offices.
The site of this place was taken up by Thomas Simmons and his son William, in the fall of 1854; in the spring of 1855, it was purchased of them by a company, consisting of Judge Lecompte, of Maryland, Daniel Woodson, secretary, from Virginia, C. B. Donaldson, from Illinois, John A. Halderman, from Kentucky, private secretary of Gov. Reeder, Samuel J. Jones, sheriff, from Virginia, and Dr. Aristedes Rodrique, from Pennsylvania. The town was then laid out, on the grounds rising from the river, covered with forest trees, many of which still remain.
The first structure erected here was Simmons' log cabin, still standing about one fourth of a mile back from the river; the next was a log cabin built on the river bank, under the direction of Sheriff Jones. The first framed house here was put up by Samuel J. Cramer, from Virginia. Rev. Mr. Prichard, of the Methodist Episcopal Church South, delivered the first sermon in this place, over a grocery store, while, it is said, a company were playing cards below. Dr. Rodrique was the first physician. The first house of entertainment was kept on the bank of the river by a Mrs. Sipes. Part of the building now fitted up as a hotel, by Maj. Barnes, was used as a place of confinement for. the free state prisoners arrested after the battle of Hickory Point, in the fall of 1856, by the United States dragoons. One hundred and one of these were confined here nearly three months, guarded by two companies of militia, under Col. Titus, being occasionally relieved by the U.
The first legislative assembly, in accordance with the proclamation of Gov. Reeder, met at Pawnee, near Fort Riley, but having to camp out, they adjourned to the Shawnee Mission. This act was vetoed by the governor, but the assembly passed it over his head. The next legislative assembly met in the Masonic Hall, in Lecompton, and it was in this building that the celebrated Lecompton Constitution, the subject of so much political discussion, was formed. The council sat in the building later occupied by Gov. Denver, on the opposite side of the street.
Topeka
, for a time the free state capital of Kansas, is on the S. side of Kansas River, 25 miles westward from Lawrence, and 55 in a direct line from Leavenworth City. It contains two or three churches, the Constitutional Hall, etc., and about 1,000 inhabitants. A bridge was built, at an expense of about $15,000, over the Kansas River, at this place, and finished in May, 1858. It was, however, soon after swept down by the great freshet of that year.
“Topeka” is an Indian word, signifying
“wild potato,”
or “potato bottom,” the place where they grow. This root, which is about as large as a man's thumb, is found along the bottom lands of Kansas River, and is used by the Indians as food. The foundation of Topeka was laid Dec. 4, 1854, by a number of settlers, who came here from Lawrence. The company consisted of C. K. Halliday, from Pennsylvania; M. C. Dickey, New Hampshire; Enoch Chase, Jacob B. Chase and Geo. Davis, from Massachusetts; L. G. Cleveland, from Iowa; Frye W. Giles, from Illinois; D. H. Horne and S. A. Clark. Having formed themselves into the “Topeka Association,” C. K. Halliday was chosen president.
The first building raised here was a log cabin now standing near the ferry or bridge, 13 by 11 feet inside. The earth inside was covered by prairie grass or hay, when twenty-four persons lodged within, lying on the ground: while the twenty-fifth man stretched himself on a load of hay on the outside. The first building was burnt on the first evening of its occupancy. The company, during the winter of 1854–5, slept in their clothes, boots, etc. Their food was principally mush, on which they were kept in a healthy condition. Rev. S. Y. Lum, a congregationalist minister, preached the first sermon in Topeka, in the log cabin. The second place of public worship was in a small building constructed of clapboards, now standing on the premises of Col. Halliday. The first school was under Miss Harlan, now Mrs. J. F. Cummings, in a “shake” building, a few yards from Col. Halliday's house. The first regular house of entertainment was kept by Mrs. A. W. Moore, near the first log cabin. In Nov., 1855, W. W. Ross, of Ohio, established the first newspaper here, called the “Kansas Tribune,” some 30 numbers of which had been previously issued in Lawrence.
On the 4th of July, 1856, the state assembly, under the Topeka constitution, consisting of representatives from all parts of the territory, met at the Constitutional Hall, in Topeka. Free state men, to the number of some 1,000 or 1,500, assembled here at the time, and were encamped about the“wipe out
” Topeka, should there be any resistance made to the United States authorities.
Northern view of the Bridge, etc., at Topeka.
The view was taken a short time after the completion of the bridge, first ever built over Kansas River Part of the village of Topeka is seen in the distance on the right. The log cabin near the bridge is the first building erected in the place.
The state assembly met at 12 o'clock at noon, at the Constitutional Hall the lower story of which was occupied by the house of representatives, the upper by the senate. Col. Sumner, with a body of about 200 dragoons and a company of artillery, now came into the place, and having planted two cannon at the head of the avenue, with lighted matches in hand, rode up to the hall, arranging his troops in a semi–circular line in front. At this time a company of free state volunteers were assembled, and were in the not of receiving a silk banner from a collection of young ladies, one of whom was then standing at the door of the Constitutional Hall, making the presentation address. The dragoons having rather overridden the volunteers, the assemblage was broken up. * Col. S. afterward made an apology to the company assembled on the occasion.the point of the bayonet?
” “I give you to understand,” replied Sumner, “that all the force under my command will be put under requisition to carry out my orders;
I again command you to disperse.
” The house then dispersed. As Sumner was passing out, he was informed that the senate was in session in the chamber above. Just as he entered, the chair was taken by Thomas G. Thornton, president
pro tem.
, with the view of calling the senate to order. Col. S. then informed them of what he had done below, and that he wished to know their intentions. Mr. Thornton replied that the senate not being organized, he could give no answer, but if he would wait until they were so, one would be given. Col. S. rejoined, that his object was to prevent an organization. After some desultory conversation, the assemblage dispersed.
Ossawatomie
is on the Osage, at its confluence with Pottawatomie Creek, 42 miles S.E. from Lawrence, and 28 from the Missouri line. The most severe conflict in the Kansas War took place here, on the 31st of August, 1856. About 300 pro–slavery men, under Capt. Reid, of Missouri, marched with a field piece upon the town, their line extending, in battle order, from river to river, across the prairie westward of the place. The inhabitants mustered about 40 men in defense, under Capt. John Brown, who took to the timber, and fighting Indian fashion, from the shelter of the trees, kept their enemy on the open plain for some time at bay, until their ammunition failing, most of them effected their retreat across the river. Their women and children escaped to the woods on the south. Their village, consisting of about 30 houses, was plundered and then laid in ashes, being the second time it had been thus destroyed by the pro–slavery forces. “Old Brown,” the free soil leader, sometimes called “Ossawatomie Brown,” lost one of his sons on this occasion. Becoming fanatical on the subject of slavery, he after this engaged in running off slaves from Missouri to Canada, and finally became a historical character by a conviction for treason, and a termination of his career on the gallows, at Harpers Ferry.
Grasshopper Falls
is about 30 miles N.W. of Lawrence. It has several mills and the best water power north of Kansas River. Fort Riley is a military post at the junction of the two main branches of the Kansas, which, in high water, is navigable for small steamers to this point.
Manhattan
and
Waubonsee
are two thriving towns in that vicinity. The latter was colonized from New Haven, Conn.; and by the identical party to whom
Sharp's rifle's
were subscribed at a meeting in a church. One of them was a deacon in the church, and among the donors were clergymen, professors of science, lady principals of female seminaries, and others of quiet callings and anti-pugnacious tendencies. The edifice rendered famous by this eccentric subscription is the North Congregational, shown in the view of the Public Square in that city. It is the church edifice on the extreme right of the picture.
St. Marys
, on Kansas River, 51 miles below Fort Riley, is an important and flourishing Catholic missionary establishment among the Pottawatomies, and the mission buildings, the trading houses, with the Indian improvements, give it quite the appearance of a town.
The
Catholic Osage Mission
, on the Neosho River, 45 miles from Fort Scott, is one of the largest missions and schools in Kansas. It was commenced
The
Shawnee Mission
, under the direction of the Methodist Episcopal Church South, is about 8 miles from the mouth of Kansas River, and 3 from Westport, Mo. It has very superior buildings, and a manual labor school. The
Friends' Shawnee Labor School
is 3 miles W. from the Methodist mission. It has been in operation more than fifty years, including the period before their arrival. The
Baptist Shawnee Mission
is 2 miles N.W. from the Methodist School. The
Kickapoo Mission
is on Missouri River, 4 miles above Fort Leavenworth; the
Iowa and Sac
Mission School is just south of the northern line of Kansas, about 26 miles N.W. of St. Joseph. It is said to have been established as early as 1837.
Council Grove
is a noted stopping place on the Santa Fe road, S. from Fort Riley, containing several trading houses and shops, and a missionary establishment and school.
Council City
, a tract nine miles square, recently laid out on a branch of the Osage, is in a S.W. course from Lawrence.
MISCELLANIES.
The following narrative of a visit to the Kansas Indians, is from the work of P. J. De Smet, a Catholic missionary, who was sent by the bishop of St. Louis, in 1840, on an exploring expedition to the Rocky Mountains, to ascertain the spiritual condition of the Indians etc.:
Kansas Village.
Engraved from a view in De Smet's Sketches
We started from Westport on the 10th of May, and after having passed by the lands of the Shawnees and Delawares, where we saw nothing remarkable but the college of the Methodists, built, it is easy to divine for what, where the soil is richest; we arrived after five days' march on the banks of the Kansas River, where we found those of our companions, who had traveled by water, with a part of our baggage. Two of the relatives of the grand chief had come twenty miles from that place to meet us, one of whom helped our horses to pass the river in safety, by swimming before them, and the other announced our arrival to the principal men of the tribe who waited for us on the opposite bank. Our baggage, wagons and men crossed in a pirogue, which, at a distance, looked like one of those gondolas that glide through the
On the 19th we continued our journey to the number of seventy souls, fifty of whom were capable of managing the rifle—a force more than sufficient to undertake with prudence the long march we had to make. Whilst the rest of our company inclined to the west, Father Point, a young Englishman and myself turned to the left, to visit the nearest village of our hosts. At the first sight of their wigwams, we were struck at the resemblance they bore to the large stacks of wheat which cover our fields in harvest time. There were of these in all no more than about twenty grouped together without order, but each covering a space of about one hundred and twenty feet in circumference, and sufficient to shelter from thirty to forty persons. The entire village appeared to us to consist of from seven to eight hundred souls—an approximation which is justified by the fact that the total population of the tribe is confined to two villages, together numbering 1,900 inhabitants. These cabins, however humble they may appear, are solidly built, and convenient. From the top of the wall, which is about six feet in hight, rise inclined poles, which terminate round an opening above, serving at once for chimney and window. The door of the edifice consists of an undressed hide on the most sheltered side, the hearth occupies the center and is in the midst of four upright posts destined to support the
rotunda;
the beds are ranged around the wall and the space between the beds and the hearth is occupied by the members of the family, some standing, others sitting or lying on skins, or yellow colored mats. It would seem that this last named article is regarded as an extra piece of finery, for the lodge assigned to us had one of them.
As for dress, manners, religion, modes of making war, etc., the Kansas are like the savages of their neighborhood, with whom they have preserved peaceful and friendly relations from time immemorial. In stature, they are generally tall and well made. Their physiognomy is manly, their language is guttural, and remarkable for the length and strong accentation of the final syllables. Their style of singing is monotonous, whence it may be inferred that the enchanting music heard on the rivers of Paraguay, never cheers the voyager on the otherwise beautiful streams of the country of the Kansas.
The Kansas, like all the Indian tribes, never speak upon the subject of religion without becoming solemnity. The more they are observed, the more evident does it become that the religious sentiment is deeply implanted in their souls, and is, of all others, that which is most frequently expressed by their words and actions. Thus, for instance, they never take the calumet without first rendering some homage to the Great Spirit. In the midst of their most infuriate passions they address him certain prayers, and even in assassinating a defenseless child, or a woman, they invoke the Master of Life. To be enabled to take many a scalp from their enemies, or to rob them of many horses, becomes the object of their most fervid prayers, to which they sometimes add fasts, macerations and sacrifices. What did they not do last spring, to render the heavens propitious? And for what? To obtain the power, in the absence of their warriors, to massacre all the women and children of the Pawnees! And in effect they carried off the scalps of ninety victims, and made prisoners of all whom they did not think proper to kill. In their
THE SHAWNEES IN KANSAS.
Henry Harvey, late superintendent of the Friends Mission among the Shawnees, in Kansas, gives, in his work on the history of that tribe, an account of their condition in Kansas, at the time of the passege of the Kansas-Nebraska bill. Originally the Shawnees resided in the Ohio country: the tribe was one of the most powerful there, and has numbered among its chiefs, Tecumseh, Cornstalk, and other men of extraordinary talent and nobility of soul. Mr. Harvey says:
“The Shawnees, in the year 1854, numbered about nine hundred souls, including the white men who have intermarried into the nation, and are thereby adopted as Indians. This number is perhaps not more than twenty.
This tribe owns about one million six hundred thousand acres of land, or, about 1,700 acres each. Many of them have good dwelling-houses, well provided with useful and respectable furniture, which is kept in good order by the females, and they live in the same manner as the whites do, and live well too. They have smoke-houses, stables, corn-cribs, and other outbuildings. They have a good supply of horses, cattle, hogs, and some sheep. They have many farm wagons and work oxen—some carriages and buggies, and are generally well supplied with farming implements, and know how to use them. They raise abundance of corn and oats, and some wheat. Their houses are generally very neat; built of hewn logs, with shingled roofs, stone chimneys, and the inside work very well finished off, and mostly done by themselves, as there are a number of very good mechanics among the younger class. Their fencing is very good, and, taken altogether, their settlements make a very respectable appearance, and would lose no credit by a comparison with those of their white neighbors in the state adjoining them, leaving out now and then, a farm where slaves do the labor, and thus carry on farming on a large scale.
The Shawnees have a large and commodious meeting-house, where they hold a religious meeting on the first day of each week. They have also a graveyard attached to the meeting-house lot. They hold religious meetings often at their own houses during the week, generally at night. They hold their camp meetings and their other large meetings, in their meeting-house, as well as their public councils, and also their temperance meetings; for they, in imitation of their white brethren,
As regards the settlements of the Shawnees in their present situation, they are all located on about thirty miles of the east end of their tract; their settlements of course, reaching a little short of one third of the distance back from the Missouri state line.
In passing along the California and Santa Fe roads, which run on the divide between the streams of the Blue and Osage Rivers, and the Kansas River—in casting the eye on either side, a handsome view is presented on both hands, of good dwellings, handsome farms, bordering on the forest, and fine herds of cattle and horses grazing in the rich prairies, as we pass, and beautiful fields of grain sown, planted and cultivated by the Indians themselves; and should the weary traveler see proper to call, and spend a night with these people, and manifest that interest for them, which he will be very sure to do, in viewing them in their present condition, and comparing it with what it once was, he will be well cared for. The Shawnees generally sow a large amount of grain, and often spare a large surplus after supplying their own wants.
There are now in the Shawnee nation four Missions, one under the care of the Methodist Church South, one under the care of the Northern Methodist Church, one under the care of the Baptist Church, and the other under the care of the Society of Friends. They are all conducted on the manual labor system; about one hundred and forty children are generally in attendance at those schools. At the first named mission there are large and commodious buildings of brick, and other out-buildings, and five or six hundred acres under cultivation; at the other Methodist Mission, a farm of about one hundred acres is under cultivation, and comfortable log buildings are erected. At the Baptist Mission are good comfortable buildings, and, I suppose, near one hundred acres adjoining to, and at some distance from, the farm, where the school is kept; and at the Friends' Mission are a large frame house and barn, and other out-buildings, and about two hundred acres under cultivation.”
Arms of Arkansas
Motto
—
The first European who traversed the territory of Arkansas was De Soto the celebrated Spanish adventurer, who after his wanderings east of the Mississippi, about the 1st of May, 1541, reached the great river of the west, not far from the site of Memphis, Tenn., where he encamped and tarried for-about twenty days, in order tc construct boats to cross the river On the opposite bank a great multitude of Indian warriors assembled well armed, and with a fleet of canoes to defend the passage. The morning after De Soto had encamped, some of the natives visited him. “Advancing without speaking a word, and turning their faces to the east, they made a profound genuflexion to the sun; then facing to the west, they made the same obeisance to the moon, and concluded with a similar, but less humble, reverence to De Soto.” They informed him they came in the name of the chief of the province, to bid them welcome, and offer their friendship and services. When the time had arrived for crossing over, De Soto, about three hours before day, ordered the four boats he had built and launched to be manned, and four troopers of tried courage to go in each. As they came near the other shore, meeting with no opposition, the troopers dashed into the water, easily effected a landing, and made themselves masters of the pass. Two hours before the sun went down the whole army had passed over the Mississippi. “The river in this place,” says the Portuguese historian, “was half a league from one shore to the other, so that a man standing still could scarce be discerned from the opposite bank. The stream was of great depth, very muddy, and was filled with trees and timber carried along by the rapidity of the current.”
De Soto now pursued his way northward, and then turning westward again, hey marched more than two hundred miles from the Mississippi to the highlands
The territory of Arkansas appears to have been next visited by Father Marquette, and a few others, who came down from Canada in 1673. The French voyageurs, from the Ohio, passed down the river to the neighborhood of the “Arkamseas,” or Arkansas, where they were kindly received. According to some accounts, the French had a settlement or military establishment at Arkansas Post, as early as 1685. It is stated, also, in 1748 (whether here or at the mouth of the Arkansas, does not distinctly appear), “the Chickasaws attacked the post, slew many, took thirteen prisoners, and drove the rest into the fort." At this time, "from the Arkansas to the Illinois, near five hundred leagues, there was not a settlement.”
This state was originally included within the limits of Louisiana, from which, in conjunction with Missouri, it was set off, becoming a part of the latter, under the name of Missouri Territory. In 1819 Missouri was divided, and the southern portion became the Territory of Arkansas. The seat of government was originally located at Arkansas Post. Gen. James Miller, a distinguished officer, and a native of New Hampshire, was the first governor. He was succeeded by Gen. George Izard. The first territorial election took place in Nov., 1819. The first legislature met at Arkansas Post, Feb. 20, 1820. The members of the general assembly were as follows: Sylvanas Phillips, William O. Allen, and Wm. B. R. Horner, Arkansas county; Edward McDonald, Jo. Hardin, and Joab Hardin, Lawrence county; David Clark, Wm. Stephenson, and John English, Hempstead county; John McElmurry, Radford Ellis, and Thos. H. Tindell, Pulaski county; Jacob Barkman and Thos. Fish, Clark county. Gen. Wm. Allen, who afterward lost his life in a duel, was appointed brigadier general of the Arkansas militia. James Woodson Bates was elected delegate, and Robert Crittenden, secretary. The seat of government was removed to Little Rock in 1820. In 1836, Arkansas was admitted as an independent state, constituting the twenty- sixth member of the American Union.
Arkansas is bounded N. by Missouri, on the E. by the Mississippi River, separating it from Mississippi and Tennessee, S. by Louisiana, and W. by the Indian Territory and Texas. It extends between 33° and 36° 30′ N. Lat., and between 89° 30′ and 94° 30′ W. Long. It is 242 miles long from N. to S., and from 170 to 258 wide from E. to W., having an area of 52,198 square miles.
In the eastern part of the state, bordering on the Mississippi and the large rivers which empty into it, the country is low and swampy, with a heavy growth of timber, and is frequently overflowed. Toward the central part it is generally hilly and broken, though interspersed with numerous prairies. The western section is crossed by several mountainous ridges. The Ozark Mountains rise to an elevation of from 1,500 to 2,000 feet. The Washita Hills have also a considerable elevation.
“Arkansas gives indications of considerable affluence in mineral resources, which
“Among objects of interest to tourists, are the Hot Springs, about 60 miles S. W. of Little Rock. From a point or ridge of land, forming a steep bank from 150 to 200 feet high, projecting over Hot Spring Creek, an affluent of the Washita, more than 100 springs issue at different elevations, and at different temperatures, from 135 deg. to 160 deg. of Fahrenheit. A considerable portion of this bank consists of calcareous deposits, formed from the water as it is exposed to the air. These springs are visited annually by thousands of people. The waters are esteemed particularly beneficial to persons suffering from the chronic effects of mercury; also in rheumatism, stiffness of the joints, etc. Near the top of the bank above alluded to, there is a fine cold spring, so near to the warm springs that a person can put one hand into cold and the other into warm water at the same time. The creek below the springs is rendered warm enough to bathe in, even in the coldest season. Cane Hill, in Washington county, elevated about 1,000 feet, is flat or rolling on the top, with exactly the same growth of trees, etc. (including the grapevine, pawpaw and gum trees) as on the river bottoms. It was originally covered with cane, hence the name. It is four or five miles wide, and perhaps ten miles long, and densely populated. The mountains on the western border of the state, abound with picturesque and romantic scenery. There is in Pike county, on the Little Missouri River, a mountain of alabaster, said to be of the finest quality, and white as the driven snow. In the same county also there is a natural bridge, which is regarded as a great curiosity.”
The state is traversed or washed by several of the largest rivers in America. The Mississippi laves its eastern front for more than 350 miles by its windings. The Arkansas, one of the largest tributaries of the Mississippi, traverses the whole breadth of the state, through its center by a very tortuous course, and is navigable for the greater part of the year far beyond its western limits. The Red River flows through the south-western corner of the state: the White River in the northern part of the state, and the Washita in the southern, are both important and navigable streams.
The soil is of every variety, from the most productive to that which is sterile. On the margins of rivers, it is exceedingly fertile, but back of this the land in many places is sterile, there being a scarcity of water. Cotton and Indian corn are staple productions, but the country is well calculated for raising cattle. Wild animals and fowls abound, such as buffaloes, deer, beaver, wild turkeys, geese, quails, etc. Within the last few years, the state has rapidly advanced in wealth and population, consequent upon the impetus given to the cultivation of cotton. Population, in 1850, 209,639, of whom 46,982 were slaves; in 1860, 435,427, including 111,104 slaves.
Little Rock,
the capital and chief town in Arkansas, is situated on the Arkansas River, about 100 miles in a direct line from Napoleon, at the mouth of the river, but more than double that distance following the course of the stream: distant from New Orleans, by the rivers, 905 miles, and 1,086 W. from Washington. The town is built on a rocky bluff, some 40 or 50 feet
Little Rock.
The view shows Little Rock, as it appears from the opposite bank of the Arkansas. The Steamboat and Ferry Landings are seen on the right. Part of the city buildings appear on the bluff, the Postoffice on the left, and the State House on the right.
The first rock which appears, in ascending the Arkansas from the Mississippi, is seen in the bank near the steamboat landing in this place. About one and a half miles above the town, on the opposite side of the stream, is a large perpendicular rock, some 300 feet high; this is called
“Big Rock,”
while the other was known by the name of
“Little Rock.
” Hence the present name of the city, which was originally called
Arkopolis.
The seat of government for Arkansas Territory was laid out here in 1820, at which time the steamboat
Comet
arrived, in eight days from New Orleans, the first steamboat that ascended the Arkansas. The river at Little Rock is about half a mile in width. In the summer months, when the water is at a low stage, only boats of a light draught can ascend as high as this point. During flood times the river has been known to rise twenty feet in twelve hours. In severe weather in winter, it is sometimes frozen over. Opposite the city the soil is very fertile, producing cotton from five to eight feet high.
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the Little Rock graveyard:
Ambrose H. Sevier,
born Nov. 4, A.D. 1801, died Dec. 31, A.D. 1848. Erected by the State of Arkansas, as a memorial of her grateful sense of his public services. Recordatione civitatis esse ornatus, suavissima remuneratio amanti patriæ.
Benjamin Johnson,
born Jan. 22, A.D. 1784, died Oct. 2, A.D. 1840. Upright as a man, exemplary as a Christian, and eminent as a judge, he descended to the grave full of years, respected by his fellow men, and mourned by a large family.
In memory of
William Gilchrist, Esq.
, first Grand Master of the Grand Lodge of the State of Arkansas, who departed this life, Sept. 5, 1843, in 5-year or his age. This stone is erected by the
Masonic Fraternity,
under the direction of the Grand Lodge of the State of Arkansas, A.L. 5850. I know that my Redeemer liveth. Almighty Father into thy hands we commend the Soul of our beloved brother:
the will of God is accomplished—so let it be.
Our brother hath forsaken us, he is no longer one of ourselves: He stretcheth not his hands to us: Shall not some Friend comfort us? What is our life? It is as a vapor that appeareth for a time, and then vanisheth away.
The rich and the poor, the king and the beggar lie down together.
Frederick W. Trapnall,
son of Philip and Nancy Trapnall, born near Harrodsburg, in Mercer county, Kentucky, May 23, 1807, died in Monticello, Drew county, Arkansas, July 4, 1853, at 5 A.M. The silver chord be loosed, or the golden bowl be broken, or the pitcher be broken at the fountain, or the wheel be broken at the cistern: Then shall the dust return to the earth as it was: and the Spirit shall return unto God who gave it.
A fond and true husband, a devoted father, an affectionate brother, a faithful friend sleeps here. In the prime of manhood, and the full vigor of an ample and cultivated intelligence, he was taken away. Devoted to the welfare of his country, he died in her service, a victim to his untiring zeal. Eminent as a lawyer, he was an ornament to his profession, possessing the esteem, respect and admiration of his associates. A member by baptism of the Episcopal Church, and a member of Christ's Church, of Little Rock, for upward of 13 years, he loved and revered her holy institutions, and was zealous and liberal in her advancement. His last words were the Lord's Prayer, and the invocation of a blessing on his wife and child. “The ransomed of the Lord shall return, and come to Zion with songs, and shall obtain joy and gladness, and sorrow and sighing shall flee away.”
Batesville
, the county seat of Independence county, 95 miles northerly from Little Rock, is on the left bank of the White River, about 250 miles south-westerly from St. Louis, and 1,040 from Washington. It lies at the head of steam navigation, small steamboats ascending at nearly all seasons. The place contains a court house, U. S. land office, several churches and seminaries, and about 1,000 inhabitants. In 1826, says Col. Noland, in his sketches of “Early Times in Arkansas,” Batesville was the second town of importance in Arkansas. At that time there were no towns or villages on White River from Batesville to its mouth. At this early period, there were shipped from Batesville upward of one hundred bales of cotton. Hartwell Boswell was the great merchant of that region, and people came hundreds of miles to his store. At this time two pounds of coffee sold for a dollar.
In 1839, John Ringold and Charles Kelly were engaged in a heavy business. The Delawares and Shawnees came annually to Batesville with their peltries; white hunters were also quite numerous. The two practicing lawyers in the place were Judges Richard Searcy and Townsend Dickison. The two physicians were Doctors Isom and Manly; Charles Kelly was sheriff, John Redmond, clerk; Robort Bates, tailor; Marshall Seddons, hatter; and Eli Sherril, blacksmith.
“Montgomery's Point, on the Mississippi, was the great trading point for all Arkansas north, and for a great portion south of the Arkansas River. For many years, all boats passing out of either the Arkansas or White River touched at Montgomery's Point, and what was remarkable, persons passed down these rivers into the broad Mississippi, and yet never passed through the mouth of either. Arkansas boats invariably came into White River through the cut off, while a chute of the Mississippi, just below Montgomery's Point, enabled them to reach the father of waters without passing out the mouth of White River.”
Helena
, a flourishing place on the right bank of the Mississippi, is 100 miles from Little Rock, 100 from Napoleon, and 100 from Memphis. It contains a court house, U. S. land office, five churches, and several literary institutions. It has a large trade with the back country and the settlements on St. Francis River, from which it receives considerable cotton for shipment. There is a fine range of hills back of the landing, the first to be seen on the western bank of the Mississippi. Helena is thought to be well located for a terminus of a railroad to the Pacific, and as such was highly recommended to the New Orleans Convention of 1852.
Helena.
Napoleon.
The view shows the appearance of Napoleon as seen from the northern bank of the Arkansas, at the point where it enters the Mississippi. The U. S. Hospital and the mouth of the Arkansas are seen on the right; the Steamboat Landing and the Catholic Church on the left; the Ferry Landing and Court House in the central part.
Napoleon,
the county seat of Desha county, is situated on the southern side of Arkansas River, at its entrance into the Mississippi, about 100 miles in a direct line from Little Rock, by the river about 600 from New Orleans, 1,087 from St. Louis, and 1,583 from Cincinnati. It contains a United States Marine Hospital, a court house, a small Catholic church, several warehouses, and 600 inhabitants.
Arkansas Post
, the most ancient settlement in Arkansas, is situated on the northern bank of the Arkansas River, about 50 miles above its junction with
View on the Arkansas.
Pine Bluff
, the county seat of Jefferson county, on the right or southern bank of Arkansas River, is by land 45 miles south-westerly from Little Rock, and 90 by land from Napoleon, at the mouth of the river. The place derives its name from the
pines
growing on the bluff (some 40 or 50 feet high), on which the place is situated. The village contains three churches, a fine court house, erected at an expense of $18,000, and about 1,000 inhabitants.
The
White Sulphur Springs
, about seven miles from Pine Bluff, is beginning to be quite a place of resort, from the medicinal properties of its waters.
Fort Smith
, is about 160 miles from Little Rock, on the W. line of the state, where it is crossed by the Arkansas River, also on the line of the great overland mail route, from St. Louis to San Francisco. It has long been noted as a military post on the Indian frontier, and more recently as a flourishing settlement.
St. Andrew's College
, a Catholic institution, is located near this place, and has a president and five professors. The Ecclesiastical Seminary, considered one of the finest edifices in the country, is located on the college grounds. Steamboats ply between this place and New Orleans. Population about 2,000.
Van Buren
, is on the N. bank of the Arkansas River, five miles from the state line dividing it from the Indian Territory. It has a large commerce with the Indians and the immediate neighborhood, and is one of the most thriving places in the state. Population about 2,000.
Hot Springs
, in Hot Springs county, is a small village, 47 miles S.W. of
Arms of Texas
The
signification of the word Texas is unknown. The name, on the first discovery of the country, was that of an Indian town on the Neches. In very early times, Texas was known as the
“New Philippines,”
and was so alluded to in Spanish official papers. The first landing of any white persons on the soil of Texas was made by La Salle and his companions, Feb. 18, 1685. This adventurer, who was under the patronage of Louis XIV, of France , after his discovery of the mouth of the Mississippi, in 1682, was sent out on a second expedition to take possession of the Mississippi country and that adjacent, in the name of the king of France, and to secure the same by actual settlement. This expedition consisted of four vessels and about 300 men. La Salle, by mistaking his course, proceeded too far to the south-west, and made his entrance into Matagorda Bay, which he supposed to be one of the mouths or outlets of the Mississippi, which river he had previously discovered. He proceeded about six miles up the Lavacca River, and built a fort on its banks, which he called Fort St. Louis. He afterward explored the country to the eastward as far as the Colorado River, when he became satisfied of his error, and that he was still far to the west of the Mississippi.
Having ascertained nearly his actual position, he determined on opening a communication with the French settlements in Illinois, and for this purpose, on March 22, 1686, with twenty of his men, set out on a journey of 2,000 miles, over an unexplored country. He encountered many difficulties on his progress toward Eastern Texas. He proceeded, it is supposed, as far as the Neches River, where he was taken sick. He was kindly treated there by the Cenis tribe of Indians, but on his recovery, he found his stock of ammunition so reduced that he was compelled to return to his small colony for
The Spanish government having heard of La Salle's expedition to Texas, and wishing to contest the claim of France to the country, sent Captain De Leon with an expedition to Matagorda Bay. They arrived at Fort St. Louis April 22, 1689. From this point he proceeded to the Cenis nation, where he found two of the French colonists, whom he took and sent to the mines in Mexico. De Leon was afterward sent into Texas a second time, where he established several missions and military posts. In 1691, Teran was appointed, by the government of Spain, governor of Texas and Coahuila, this being the first attempt to organize a government here. Teran established posts and formed settlements on Red River, on the Neches and Guadaloupe About this time was established the missions of San Francisco and San Juan Bautista. This last was situated on the “old San Antonio road,” which was laid out about this time, by St. Denis, the French commandant at Nachitoches, with a view to open a trade with Mexico, and which continued to be traveled by Mexican traders and others, for 140 years afterward.
The hostility of the Indians, and the heavy expenses attending these efforts to colonize Texas, caused the king of Spain to abandon, for a time, this enterprise. The missions, however, struggled along under many discouragements. In 1712, Louis XIV, of France, still disputing the Spanish claim, granted a charter to Crozat, including both Louisiana and Texas, and appointed Condillac governor of the whole territory. In order to obtain possession of the rich mines in the interior of Mexico, Condillac sent St. Denis with a command, to establish settlements and open a way to the mining regions. The Spanish authorities in Mexico became alarmed by these proceedings, and in order to defeat the enterprise, sent Capt. Don Ramon to establish new posts and fortify the missions previously established. Ramon established many missions, in different parts of Texas, in the year 1715, which has, therefore, been called the “year of missions in Texas.” From this year the permanent occupancy of Texas by Spain may be dated.
In 1721, De Bienville, the governor of Louisiana, fitted out an expedition to drive out the Spaniards from Texas. The expedition landed in Matagorda Bay, but on account of the hostility of the Indians, they soon returned. In 1728, the Spanish government made an order to send 400 families to Texas, to be taken from the Canary Islands. The first of these emigrants settled in San Antonio; and these, together with others from the city of Mexico, who arrived about the same time, laid the first permanent foundation of that city. About this time, the
Natchez
, a powerful tribe of Indians in Louisiana, and the
Apaches
, and some other warlike tribes in Texas, made war against both the French and Spanish settlements. The Apaches made frequent incursions upon San Antonio, and greatly harassed the inhabitants;
In 1762, France ceded Louisiana to Spain, who, having thus acquired possession of both Louisiana and Texas, established some new frontier defenses, but allowed only two garrisons to Texas, the one at San Antonio, and the other at La Bahia. The trade of Texas, consisting almost entirely in horses, cattle and sheep, was, after this, prosecuted with New Orleans with less difficulty, and the precious metals from various parts of Mexico passed through Texas without opposition. The policy, however, of the Spanish government, in not allowing any free trade, cut off all commerce from the coast of Texas, which was but imperfectly known, only now and then a contraband trader, or a piratical cruiser, coming into Galveston to conceal a prize.
“In 1765, the population of Texas, confined almost entirely to Adaes, San Antonio, La Bahia, with a few at Nacogdoches, Orquisaco and Mound Prairie, is said not to have exceeded 1,500, one half of whom were Indians domiciliated.” When Spain declared war against Great Britain, in 1779, Don Jose Galvez, then governor of Louisiana, engaged in active hostilities, and received a few recruits from Texas, who aided in the victories at Natchez, Pensacola, and other places. Previous to and during the American Revolution, an active trade was carried on by the Spanish settlement at Natchez, through Nacogdoches, to the interior of Texas, and it was through those engaged in this trade that its beauty and fertility became known to the Americans, and attracted adventurers from the United States.
In Oct., 1800, Spain, by secret treaty, retroceded Louisiana back to France. In 1803, Bonaparte, being in want of money, sold the whole of Louisiana to the United States. The western boundaries of this territory were quite undefined, but the River Sabine was finally, in 1819, in treaty with Spain, agreed upon as the boundary upon the gulf. At the close of 1806, Texas was comparatively prosperous, owing chiefly to the disbursement of money for the support of the troops at the fortified places; the population at this time was estimated at about 7,000. Some few Americans had settled along the San Antonio road, in spite of the hostile disposition manifested toward them. Nacogdoches, at this time, contained about 500 inhabitants, among whom were quite a number of Americans.
West of the Sabine was a tract, called the “Neutral Ground,” which was occupied by bands of outlaws and desperate men, who lived as buccaneers, by robbery and plunder, perpetrated upon the traders. The Spanish authorities had endeavored to expel them, but could not. The United States sent a force against them and drove them away, but they returned again, and renewed their depredations. About this time, Lieut. A. W. Magee, a native of Massachusetts, who had commanded an expedition against these outlaws, conceived the idea of conquering Texas to the Rio Grande, and of establishing a republican government. This enterprize was undertaken in the name of Don Bernardo Gutierres, though Magee was in reality at the of the movement. The freebooters of the neutral ground joined his standard, in June, 1812. The civil war at this time raging in Mexico, favored the designs of Magee, who had with him nearly every able bodied man east of the Trinity. He crossed the Colorado with about 800 men. At this point, he learned that Salcedo, the royalist governor of Texas, had come out against him as far as the Guadaloupe, with 1,400 men, where he lay in ambush. Magee
The Americans, being reinforced, marched on San Antonio. When within about nine miles of that place, they came upon the Spanish army, under Gov. Salcedo, about 2,500 strong, being about double the number of the Americans. The battle of
Rosalis
ensued, nearly 1,000 of the Spaniards were slain, and some few taken prisoners. The next day Gov. Salcedo surrendered, and being put in charge of a company of Bexar Mexicans to be transported to New Orleans, he, with 13 other officers, among whom was ex-Governors Herrera and Cordero, were taken to the bank of the river below the town, where they were stripped and tied, and their throats cut! Col. Kemper, Maj. Ross, and others, being disgusted with such treachery and barbarity, left the army and returned home. Capt. Perry now took the command, and on the night of June 4th, attacked and routed an army of over 2,000 sent against them. The Republicans, however, were finally defeated by another army, under Gen. Arredondo, on the Medina, with great slaughter. Only 93 Americans reached Natchitoches, among whom were Col. Perry and Capts. Taylor and Ballard. The Spaniards being successful, in revenge, committed horrid atrocities upon the friends of the Republican party. Thus ended the first effort at Texan independence.
In Feb., 1819, in a treaty with Spain, the Floridas were ceded to the United States, and the Sabine agreed upon as the boundary of the Spanish possessions. Texas thus being relinquished for Florida, a far less valuable territory, gave much dissatisfaction to the southern portion of the people of the United States. Early in 1819, Dr. James Long raised a company in Natchez, of 75 men, and proceeded to Nacogdoches, and on his arrival, being joined by Col. Davenport and Bernardo Gutierres, his command was increased to 300. A provisional government was then formed, and Texas was declared to be a
“free and independent republic.
” They also enacted laws, and fixed the price of lands, those on Red River being estimated at a dollar per acre. They also established the first printing office, Horatio Bigelow being the editor of the paper. Gen. Long posted a few troops at the crossing of the Trinity, the falls of the Brazos, and at other places; he also dispatched Col. Gaines to Galveston, in order to obtain the co-operation of Lafitte, the freebooter, in the revolution. This was declined, Lafitte stating the forces were entirely inadequate for the purpose. Meantime, the royalists, under Col. Parez, came and took the post on the Brazos, with eleven prisoners, Oct. 11, 1819, and on the 15th they took La Bahia (now Goliad), and afterward the post on the Trinity, and then proceeded to Nacogdoches, Gen. Long and his men having barely made their escape to the Sabine. Parez proceeded to Cooshattie village, and about 40 miles below that place, after a severe conflict with the Republicans, routed them. The latter fled to Bolivar Point, near Galveston, where Gen. Long afterward joined them.
Gen. Long appears to have continued his head-quarters at Bolivar Point for some time; meanwhile Lafitte was obliged to leave Galveston. On the
* Mrs. Long, formerly Miss Wilkinson, of Maryland, remained for a considerable period with two young children, attended by only a single servant. While in this lonesome situation, exposed to many dangers, her youngest child, a daughter, was born, being, it is believed, the first born of the Anglo-Saxon race in southern Texas, and possibly the first in the state. She was born Dec. 14, 1820, and died at the age of 2½ years, in Jefferson county Miss., near Rodney. She named her little daughter
Mary James, but in accordance with the wishes of some of her Mexican friends, she received the baptismal name, at San Antonio, of
Marie Aransas Jacoba Pedro. While Mrs. L. remained alone on the point, she lived in apprehension of a visit from the Cannibal Indians, a murderous race who frequented the coast and Galveston Island. By the aid of a spy glass, she could discern the movements of the Indians, and when they appeared to be making for the Point, she raised a flag and fired off a cannon, and by this means probably saved the lives of herself and children. Mrs. Long, at present, resides at her plantation, near Richmond, Texas.
In Dec., 1820, Moses Austin, a native of Connecticut, but for some time a resident of Missouri, set out for San Antonio de Bexar, to solicit the sanction of the government, and to procure a tract of land, for the settlement of an Anglo-American colony in Texas. On presenting himself to the governor, he was, according to the Spanish regulations respecting foreigners, ordered to leave the province immediately. On crossing the public square, he accidentally met the Baron de Bastrop, with whom he had a slight acquaintance in the United States, many years before. By his influence he obtained a second interview with the governor, the result of which was that his petition to introduce three hundred American families into Texas, was recommended and forwarded to the proper authorities in Mexico. It was granted in Jan., 1821: Mr. Austin returned before its fate was known, and died shortly afterward. He left special injunctions to his son,
Stephen F. Austin
, to carry out his cherished plan to establish a colony.
On July 21, 1821, Stephen F. Austin, accompanied by Senor Seguin and seventeen pioneers, entered the wilderness of Texas to lay the foundation of her present prosperity. He explored various parts, and after meeting with losses and difficulties, located his colony on the Brazos. Austin soon repaired to San Antonio, to report to the governor, who appears to have been friendly to the enterprise. When he arrived there, in March, 1822, he learned, with much regret, that it was necessary to make a journey to the city of Mexico, to procure a grant from the supreme authorities. On the 29th of April ensuing, Col. Austin arrived in Mexico, and succeeded in obtaining from Iturbide, then emperor, a confirmation of the grant made to his father. When about to return to Texas, Iturbide was overthrown, and his acts declared null and void. Austin was again obliged to apply to the reigning authorities, who renewed the grant, and in effect clothed him with almost sovereign power. In conjunction with Baron Bastrop, Austin fixed his colonial capital on the Brazos, calling it
San Felipe de Austin.
84
When the Mexican government, in 1825, abolished slavery within her limits, most of the settlers in Texas being planters from the southern states, who had brought their slaves with them, felt themselves aggrieved, and petitioned the Mexican congress in vain for relief. On the establishment of
Centralism
, under Santa Anna, Texas, in 1835, declared her independence. In 1836, Santa Anna, president of Mexico, with a force of several thousand men, moved forward, threatening to exterminate the Americans, or to drive them from the soil of Texas. In March, San Antonio de Bexar was besieged; the Alamo there, defended by only 187 Americans, was carried by storm, and all slain: among them were Col. Travis, Col. David Crockett and Col. Bowie, the inventor of the
bowie-knife.
While Santa Anna was engaged at San Antonio, Gen. Urrea marched upon Goliad. He had a severe contest with Col. Fannin's troops, who, on March 20th, surrendered themselves as prisoners of war. Nine days afterward the Texan prisoners were led out and massacred, to the number of 330, in cold blood.
On the 7th of April, 1836, Santa Anna arrived at San Felipe with the divisions of Sesma and Tolsa. He proceeded down the west bank of the Brazos, crossed the river at Richmond, and on the 16th reached Harrisburg. The Texans, under Gen. Houston, now reduced to less than 800 men, retiring before his advance, proceeded down the bank of the Buffalo Bayou, and took a position near the River San Jacinto. On the 21st of April, 1836, Santa Anna, with a force of over 1,700 men, being encamped near Gen. Houston, was attacked by the Texans. When within about 600 yards, the Mexican line opened their fire upon them, but the Texans, nothing daunted, pressed on to a close conflict, which lasted about eighteen minutes, when the enemy gave way, and were totally routed, nearly every man was either killed, wounded, or taken prisoner. The Texan loss was but 2 killed, and 23 wounded. This victory secured the independence of Texas.
In 1841, President Lamar organized what has been termed, the “Santa Fe Expedition,” the object of which was, to open a trade with Santa Fe, and to establish Texan authority, in accordance with the treaty of Santa Anna, over all the territory east of the Rio Grande. Santa Fe, lying east of that river, was still in possession of the Mexicans. On the 18th of June, the expedition, numbering three hundred and twenty-five men under Gen. M'Leod, left Austin, the capital of Texas, and after a journey of about three months, arrived at the Spanish settlements in New Mexico. They were intercepted by a vastly superior force, and surrendered on condition of their being allowed to return; but instead of this, they were bound with ropes and leather thongs, in gangs of six or eight, stripped of most of their clothing, and marched to the city of Mexico, a distance of 1,200 miles. On their route, they were treated with cruelty, beaten, and insulted; forced to march at times by night, as well as by day; blinded by sand; parched by thirst, and famishing with hunger.
Having arrived at Mexico in the latter part of December, they were, by the orders of Santa Anna, thrown into filthy prisons. After a while, part were compelled to labor as common scavengers in the streets of the city; while others were sent to the stone quarries of Pueblo, where, under brutal taskmasters, they labored with heavy chains fastened to their limbs. Of the whole number, three were murdered on the march; several died of ill-treatment and hardship; some few escaped, some were pardoned, and nearly all eventually released.
Soon after the result of this expedition was known, rumors prevailed of an intended invasion of Texas. In September, 1842, twelve hundred Mexicans under Gen. Woll, took the town of Bexar; but subsequently retreated beyond the Rio Grande. A Texan army was collected, who were zealous to carry the war into Mexico. After various disappointments and the return of most of the volunteers, three hundred Texans crossed the Rio Grande and attacked the town of Mier, which was garrisoned by more than two thousand Mexicans strongly posted.
The Texans, contrary to the stipulations, were marched to Mexico, distant one thousand miles. On one occasion, two hundred and fourteen of them, although unarmed, rose upon their guard of over three hundred men, overpowered and dispersed them, and commenced their journey homeward; but ignorant of the country and destitute of provisions, and being pursued by a large party, they were obliged to surrender. Every tenth man was shot for this attempt at escape. The others were thrown into the dungeons of Perote, where about thirty died of cruel treatment. A few escaped, and the remainder were eventually released.
Early application was made by Texas to be annexed to the United States. Several years passed over without any serious attempts having been made by Mexico to regain Texas, and the political freedom of the country was thus considered as established. Presidents Jackson and Van Buren, in turn, objected on the ground of the unsettled boundary of Texas, and the peaceful relations with Mexico. President Tyler brought forward the measure, but it was lost in congress. It having been the test question in the ensuing presidential election, and the people deciding in its favor by the election of the democratic candidates, Texas was annexed to the Union by a joint resolution of congress, Feb. 28, 1845.
The Mexican minister, Almonte, who had before announced that Mexico would declare war if Texas was annexed, gave notice that since America had consummated “the most unjust act in her history,” negotiations were at an end.
War with Mexico then ensued. The theater of war in this state was on the Rio Grande. Gen. Taylor, with the American troops, routed the Mexicans on the soil of Texas, at Palo Alto and Resaca de la Palma, and the arms of the United States were every where triumphant. The state government was organized on the 19th of Feb., 1846. The boundary between New Mexico and Texas, the latter of which claimed the line of the Rio Grande, was adjusted by treaty in 1850.
The joint resolution by which Texas was annexed to the Union, gives permission for the erection of four additional states from its territory, and in these words—“New states, not exceeding four in number, in addition to said state of Texas, and having sufficient population, may hereafter, by the consent of said state, be formed out of the territory thereof, which shall be entitled to admission under the provisions of the Federal constitution.”
The opposition to the annexation of Texas was, at the time, very great in the North. Massachusetts, through her legislature, declared “that re-annexation of Texas was a virtual dissolution of the Union.” The term
re-annexation
, used at that period, grew out of the claims acquired by the purchase of Louisiana of France, in 1803. The French claimed, at the time of the sale to the United States, that the western limit of Louisiana, on the Gulf of Mexico, was the Rio Grande, 500 miles west of the Sabine. The limit, however, was undefined, and a large tract west of the Sabine, as before observed, bore for many years the term of “Neutral Ground,” which was, by the citizens of the south, considered of right as belonging to the United States. When the Sabine was fixed upon as the boundary, by the treaty of
Texas is bounded N. by New Mexico and the Indian Territories, from the latter it is divided chiefly by the Arkansas and Red Rivers; E. by Arkansas and Louisiana, being separated from the latter by Sabine River; S. by the Gulf of Mexico; and west by Mexico and the Territory of New Mexico, being separated from Mexico by the River Rio Grande. It is situated between 26° and 36° 30′ N. Lat., and between 93° 30′ and 110° W. Long. from Greenwich. It is 800 miles long from E. to W., and 700 from N. to S., containing, it is estimated 237,321 square miles.
The surface of the country has been described as that of a vast inclined plane, gradually sloping from the mountainous regions of the west toward the sea coast in the south-east, and traversed by numerous rivers, all having that direction. Texas may be divided into three regions: the first, which is level, extends along the coast, with a breadth varying from 50 to 100 miles, being narrowest at the south-west; this part of the state has a rich, alluvial soil, and is singularly free from swamps and lagoons. Broad woodlands fringe the rivers, between which are extensive and rich pasture lands. The second division, the largest of the three, is the undulating prairie region, which extends from 150 to 200 miles further inland from the level section. Here are the beautiful “islands of timber.” Here the soil, a little broken, is as rich as the land in the alluvial country below, more easily worked, and produces a greater variety of products. In this region, the planter may raise all the cotton, corn, rice, grain and tobacco he requires, and stock to any extent, without much labor or care. The third, or mountainous region, in the W. and S.W., forming part of the Sierra Madre, or Mexican Alps, has been but little explored. Texas abounds with minerals, and is interesting in its geology. Silver, gold, lead, copper, alum, etc., are found. Iron ore pervades the greater part of the country, and bituminous coal on the Trinity and Upper Brazos.
The Texan year is divided into a wet and dry season. The former lasts from December to March, and the latter from March to December. Though varying with location from tropical to temperate, the climate is remarkably delightful and salubrious. During the heat of summer, refreshing breezes blow from the south, almost without interruption. In the winter ice is seldom seen, except in the northern part of the state. Cotton, tobacco and sugar are the great agricultural staples: in cotton it is pre-eminent. Fruits of almost every kind flourish. Great numbers of cattle, sheep and horses are reared, vast herds of buffalo and wild horses roam over the prairies, while deer and game are abundant. Population, in 1850, 212,592; in 1860, 601,039 including 180,388 slaves.
Galveston City,
the commercial capital of Texas, is situated at the eastern end of Galveston Island, Lat. 29° 18′ 14″ N., Long. 84° 46′ 34″ W., about 300 miles westward of New Orleans, and upward of 250 from Austin, the capital of the state. The island on which the city is built is very level, slightly elevated above the level of the sea, about 28 miles long, and from 1½ to 3½ miles broad. There is 12 feet water over the bar at low tide. Vessels of 800 tuns can cross it with 1,200 bales of cotton, and receive, by lightering, 800 bales more at the outer bar. Scarcely any trees or shrubbery are
North eastern view of Galveston.
The view shows the appearance of the most compact part of Galveston, as seen from Kuhn or Hendley's wharf, which, like the others, extends a considerable distance from the shore. The towers of the Catholic Church, the Market cupola, and the Movable Light are seen on the left, and the tower of the Episcopal Church on the right. The Railroad, extending over the bridge from Virginia Point to the island, is in the extreme distance on the right.
The city contains eight or ten churches, the largest of which are the Episcopal Church and the Catholic Cathedral, both of which are fine Gothic structures of brick, erected at a heavy expense. Among the seminaries of learning are the St. Mary's College and the Convent, the Galveston Institute, and Galveston Female Seminary. Previous to the first settlement of Galveston, it was a place of resort for the celebrated Lafitte, of piratical memory. His vessels lay where the wharf is represented in the foreground of the annexed engraving. His fort stood about 300 feet from the head of this wharf. The first commencement of the settlement of the place was by persons who, during the revolution in Texas, fled from the interior of the country, at the time of the Mexican invasion. The first building erected at this period was a warehouse for commission business, by Messrs. McKinney & Williams, in 1836-7, the latter being, it is stated, a descendant of the celebrated Roger Williams, of Rhode Island. This firm built the Palmetto wharf, being, it is said, the first constructed in the place.
The first house erected for public worship, on the island, was a small structure, 50 by 20 feet, erected in 1841, in front of where St. Mary's Cathedral now stands. The first Protestant house of worship was the Episcopal Church, which stood at the north end of the present church. It was taken down in Dec., 1857. In front of the cathedral is a monument, which covers the remains of five priests and two young deacons of the Catholic Church, who all died of the yellow fever. The following are the inscriptions upon it:J. Dixon, D. Odriscoll,
Obierunt A.D. 1853-4. Out of the dust thou wast taken: for dust thou art, and unto dust shalt thou return. Monumentum pietatis fidelium, R.J.P.
In memory of
E. Hug,
born Nov. 29, 1809: ordained June 1, 1833: died Sept. 27, 1853.
Bum Andenken unserers goliebten E. HUG. Grunder der deutshen Congregation Slarb den 27, Sept. 1853.
Hic Jacet R.R.D.D.
I. C. Metton, J. Baudran, J. P. Bajard, G. Metz,
Obierunt A.D. 1853-4. Seigneur Donnez lui le Repos Eternel, Que, Notre Lumiere l'eclaire pendant l'Eternite. Monumentum pietatis fidelium, R.I.P.
[Eternal rest give unto them, O Lord, and let perpetual light shine upon them.]
Galveston derives its name from the island on which it is situated. When first discovered by La Salle, in 1686, it was called San Louis, but it was afterward called Galveston from
Galvez
, a distinguished Spanish nobleman. From its first discovery, it remained unsettled till quite a recent period, during which time, says Mr. Yoakum, in his History, “there is reason to believe it had more than doubled in size, by the recession of the waters of the gulf.” “In 1816, the island was covered with high grass and herds of deer; and, from the abundance of snakes, the pirates called it
Snake Island.
”
Herrera, the Mexican minister, learning from the pirates of Barretaria the capacity of Galveston harbor, sailed with a fleet of 12 or 15 vessels, under Commodore Aury, and landed on the island, Sept. 1, 1816. On the 12th, a government was organized, and Aury was chosen governor of Texas and Galveston Island, taking an oath of allegiance to the Republic of Mexico.
In Nov. of this year, Gen. Mina, who had distinguished himself in the peninsular war against France, being obliged to leave his country, landed at Galveston, and co-operated with the authorities at this place. Aury's vessels were sent out to cruise against the Spanish commerce. He took many rich prizes, and soon swept the shipping of the mother country from the gulf. Among the prizes were many Spanish slavers. Being no market for them in Texas, they were, in a clandestine manner, introduced into Louisiana, being sold to the planters at a dollar per pound, or an average of $140 each.
The forces in Galveston, at this period, consisted of 300 or 400 men under Aury; 200 under Gen. Mina, while Col. Perry commanded 100 men at Bolivar Point. In March, 1817, learning that Soto la Marina was in a defenseless situation, these three commanders sailed and took possession on the 6th of April. Mina, penetrating into the interior with only 300 men, was, after several victories, taken prisoner and shot. Col. Perry set out on his return to the United States with 50 men. He arrived at Bahia, where he was attacked in front and rear by five times his force. He fought till every one of his men fell, and then, sooner than fall into the hands of the enemy, blew out his own brains with his pistol.
A few days after Aury and all his men had sailed from Galveston, Lafitte and his buccaneers, from Barretaria, arrived and took possession. He landed with about forty followers, and on the 15th of April, 1817, the captains and crews of the vessels then present (seven in all), took the oath of fidelity to the Mexican Republic. On the 20th, other vessels having come in, all the officers and owners assembled on board the schooner Jupiter, made the necessary rules and regulations for a government of their own, after swearing allegiance to the Republic of Mexico. By the close of 1817, Lafitte's followers in Galveston numbered about 1,000 men, composed of refugees from justice, and the victims of oppression, from other countries. The town built by Lafitte upon the ruins of that of Aury (which was burnt when he left it), was called
Campeachy
, and for a time, it is said, “the society was very good, enjoying many of the luxuries of larger cities.” About this time, Gen. Lallemand, who had been an artillery officer under Napoleon, came to Galveston with about 100 Frenchmen, and proceeded up the Trinity to make a settlement. From the hostility of the Indians it was abandoned, and he returned to Galveston, where part of his followers remained. Lafitte's house was painted red, and he had a fortification thrown up around it. He had frequent fights with the Carankawa Indians, who frequented the island. In 1819, Lafitte was declared governor of Galveston
The following inscriptions are copied from monuments in the graveyards at Galveston:
Michel B. Menard,
born in Canada, Dec. 5, 1805: died in Galveston, Sept. 2, 1856. After a life illustrated by public and private virtues, he rests in the country whose infancy he adopted, and in the city which he founded. His deeds are recorded in the history of his State: his memory is embalmed in the hearts of his family and friends. Requiescat in Pace.
In memory of
Gen. William S. Murphy,
late Charge d'Affaires of the United States to the Republic of Texas, who died July 13, 1844, aged — years.
This tribute of respect is dedicated, by the various Lodges of the
Independent Order Of Odd Fellows
of the City of Galveston, in commemoration of the exemplary virtues, energy and devotion in behalf of Odd Fellowship of P.D.G.M.
J. A. Kauffman,
who died May 1, 1854, in the 67th year of his age. Faithful to his duties as an Odd Fellow and a Citizen, as well as a husband and father, he fell, after filling his useful position for a long series of years, like ripened grain before the sickle, honored by all who knew him. We command you to visit the sick, relieve the distressed, and educate the orphan.
Sacred to the memory of
Edwin A. Ramsdale,
a native of Livingston county, State of N. Y., who departed this life, Oct. 23, 1854, aged 17 years 4 mo.
Sailor boy somebody cares for thee.
Erected by his shipmate, John B. Hall.
San Antonio,
the capital of Bexar county, stands on both sides of the San Antonio, near its head waters, and is about 70 miles S.W. of Austin, and 1,476 from San Diego, California. It is the head-quarters of the United States army in Texas: the great starting point for military expeditions across the plains, between here and the Pacific. It contains the army buildings, a court house, several churches, an Ursuline convent, and other Catholic institutions. A branch of the overland mail route, through Arizonia to California, passes through this place, and it has a large trade with Mexico and New Mexico by ox teams and pack mules. Lavacca and Indianola, about 150 miles distant, are the sea ports, by which trade is carried on with New Orleans and New York. A very large proportion of the population are of the Mexican race, and Mexican habits, manners and costumes are largely prevalent. Before the revolution, it was somewhat larger than at present, it now having about 6,000 inhabitants. The
Alamo,
so celebrated in Texan history, is in San Antonio, on the eastern side of the river, the public square and principal part of the town being on the west side. The word
alamo
, in Spanish, signifies “cottonwood,” from which it is inferred that a grove of cottonwood stood on or near its site.
A late traveler gives, in Leslie's illustrated paper, the following description of this part Mexican, part American town:
San Antonio is like Quebec, a city of the olden time, jostled and crowded by modern enterprise. The latter-day American building with its four or five stories and half glass front, overtops the grim old Spanish wall and the dilapidated Mexican “hacal,” which betoken a by-gone era. Here have the Germans settled in large numbers, bringing good old-fashioned industry along with their lager bier. Their neat cottages and vegetable gardens are noticeable all about the suburbs. As
Main Plaza, San Antonio.
San Antonio is one of the oldest towns in the United States. “The Public Square is divided by the Church and some other buildings into two; or rather the original square, or military plaza, was laid of and improved in 1715, having on its east side the Church and the offices of priests and officers. In 1731 was laid off the main square or Plaza of the Constitution.”
Walking about the city and its environs, you may well fancy yourself in some strange land. The houses, many of them built of adobe, one story high, and thatched, swarm with their mixed denisons, white, black, and copper-colored. The narrow streets, the stout old walls, which seem determined not to crumble away the aqueducts, along which run the waters of the San Pedro, the Spanish language which is spoken by almost everybody, the dark, banditti-like figures that gaze at you from the low doorways—everything, in the Mexican quarter of the city especially, bespeaks a condition widely different from what you are accustomed to behold in any American town. To conduct trade successfully, it is necessary to employ clerks who understand Spanish, or the tongue spoken by Mexicans and called Spanish, as a large amount of trade is done by Mexicans.
The better class of people, Americans and foreigners, speak of “the states” and “news from the states,” when referring to any other portion of the country that Texas, except to the west.
A large element of the population of San Antonio is Mexican. There are a few respectable, intelligent and wealthy families, but the majority are of the lower order, with all the vices and none of the virtues belonging to the better situated. The men, whenever they work, are employed as teamsters, herders and day laborers. It is the general belief,
The free-and-easy style of life which is characteristic of the lower order of Mexicans is sure to surprise a stranger. He sees children of both sexes, from two to six years of age, strolling about in the economical and closely-fitting costume bestowed upon them by nature. Women, short and dumpy, with forms guiltless of artificial fixtures, and in the single article of attire denominated a petticoat, brief at both ends, are observed in doors and out, manifesting nut the slightest regard for the curious glances of the passers by. Parties of men, women and children bathe in the San Antonio River, just outside the corporate limits, without the annoyance of dresses. This comfortable fashion was formerly in vogue within the city, until the authorities concluded it might with propriety be dispensed with.
The Church of the Alamo.
Mexican amusements, in the shape of cockfights and fandangoes, help to elevate and refine the people of San Antonio, such as choose to participate. Every Sunday, just after mass at the old Mission Church, there is a cockfight, generally numerously attended. The pit is located in rear of the church, about one square distant. On last Sabbath, going past the church door about the time of service, I observed a couple of Mexicans kneeling near the door in a pious attitude, which would doubtless have appeared very sober and Christianlike, had not each one held a smart gamecock beneath his arm! Pious souls! They had evidently paused a moment on their way to the cockpit, in order to brush over their little shortcomings for the past week.
The fandangoes take place every evening, and are patronized by the lower orders of people, who, as the sapient circus proprietor in “Hard Times” would declare, “must be amushed.” A large hall or square room, lighted by a few lamps hung from the walls, or lanterns suspended from the ceiling, a pair of negro fiddlers and twenty or thirty couples in the full enjoyment of a “bolero,” or the Mexican polka, help make up the scene. In the corners of the room are refreshment tables, under the charge of women, where coffee, frijoles, tortillas, boiled rice and other eatables may be obtained, whisky being nominally not sold. From the brawls and free fights which often take place, it is surmised that the article may be had in some mysterious manner. At these fandangoes may be seen the muleteer, fresh from the coast or the Pass, with gay clothes and a dozen or so of silver dollars; the United States soldiers just from the barracks, abounding in oaths and tobacco; the herdsman, with his blanket and long knife, which seems a portion of every Mexican; the disbanded ranger, rough, bearded and armed with his huge holster pistol and long bowie-knife dancing, eating, drinking, swearing and carousing, like a party of Captain Kidd's men just in from a long voyage. Among the women may be seen all colors and ages from ten to forty; the Creole, the Poblano, the Mexican, and rarely the American or German—generally, in such cases, the dissipated widow or discarded mistress of some soldier or follower of the army.
San Antonio is rapidly improving. Near the Alamo a fine hotel of stone is being erected by an enterprising German. The new Catholic Church is a grand edifice for Texas. Near the city is a quarry of limestone, so soft that it can be cut with a common knife. Exposed to the air for any length of time, it hardens and becomes solid. Some fine warehouses have just been completed; one is rented by the United States for a storehouse
The foundation of San Antonio was an Indian mission, as were generally the first settlements under the Spaniards in Texas. This work was undertaken in Texas by the Franciscans, a religious order founded by St. Francis d'Assisi, at Naples, in 1208. Before giving a particular history of this mission, we extract from Yoakum a description of these establishments, with their mode of government and discipline:
The establishments formed in Texas were known as
presidios
,missions.
There was a mission at each
presidio;
but many missions were without soldiers, at least in any considerable numbers. Each
presidio
was entitled to a commandant, and the necessary officers for a command of two hundred and fifty men; though, from various circumstances, the number constantly varied, and was generally less. The troops were inferior, badly clothed, idle, and disorderly. The buildings were erected around a square,
plaza de armas
, and consisted of the church, dwellings for officers, friars, and soldiers, with storehouses, prisons, etc. The size of the square depended on the population, the strength of the force intended to be stationed there, and also upon the extent of the district dependent on the presidio. Huts were erected at a short distance from the principal edifices, for the converted Indians. The unmarried of either sex were placed in separate huts, and at night locked up by the friars, who carried the keys. They encouraged chastity among the Indians, and punished its violation by public or private whipping, as the offender was a male or a female.
* Presidio, a garrison of soldiers.
Forts were erected near the presidios, and sometimes the church was fortified. The civil and military authority was united in the commandant, which, in some matters, was subordinate and in others superior to the ecclesiastical power. The principal duty of the military was to repel the invasion of the wild Indians, and to suppress the rebellious spirit of the converts. The Indians were well fed, clothed, and cared for; their labors were not heavy; and, in these particulars, they could not complain. But they were compelled to perform certain religious ceremonies before they could understand anything of their meaning. Sundry rules were laid down for their every motion, a departure from which was severely punished. It was this tyranny over the minds and bodies of the Indians that enfeebled and wasted them. They were willing to forego the food and raiment of the missions, for the sublime scenery of the vast prairies, the liberty of roaming unmolested over them, and chasing the buffalo and the deer. Freedom, dear to all, is the idol of the Indian. He worships the liberty of nature. When restrained from his loved haunts, he pines, and sickens, and dies. Had the Franciscans, like the Jesuits on the lakes, gone with their flocks on their hunting excursions, joined them in their feasts, and praised them for their skill in the chase, they would have met with greater success. But the Jesuits possessed a twofold advantage: they had the power of dispensing with tedious and uninteresting prayers and ceremonies; and they also enjoyed the aid of the cheerful, talkative, open-hearted French; while the Franciscans, without such dispensing power, were likewise bound to cooperate with the gloomy, suspicious, and despotic Spaniards.
The Franciscan fathers made regular reports of the success of their missions to the superior, and the latter to the general of the order. On these reports depended to a great extent the favor shown the missionaries; hence they were excited to zeal in their efforts to make converts. Not content with the fruits of persuasion and kind treatment, they made forays upon the surrounding tribes. The soldiers performed
To add to the strength of the missions and the number of the converts, reliable Indians of these establishments were sent out among their wild brethren to bring them in. This was sometimes done by persuasion, and sometimes by deception and force. However, they were brought to the missions, and incorporated among the learners and workmen of the fold.
When we call to mind the fanaticism and ignorance of that age, and the important fact that the Indians who remained long in the missions became greatly attached to their spiritual guides and the form of their worship, we must admit that these pioneers of religion deserved some praise. Their toils and privations evinced their faith—their patience and humility should satisfy the world of their sincerity.
Until the present century, the Catholics did more for the cause of missions than the Protestants; and if, a century and a half ago, they committed fatal errors in their religious enterprises, it is no more than has since been done. The fate of the aboriginal races of the New World, and even of the Pacific islands, is peculiar. A well-defined instance of any tribe or nation that has been civilized, without a total or partial destruction of its people, can scarcely be produced. This may, to some extent, be attributed to the vices introduced by the friends of the missionaries.
Yoakum gives this history of the founding of the mission at San Antonio:
The venerable mission of the Alamo, the second in Texas, deserves some consideration. It was first founded in the year 1703 by Franciscans of the apostolic college of Queretaro, in the valley of the Rio Grande, under the invocation of San Francisco Solano. Here it remained for five years, but for some reason was removed to a place called San Ildephonso, where it seems to have remained till 1710, at which time it was moved back to the Rio Grande, and reinvocated as the mission of San Jose. Here it remained under the guidance of the good father Jose de Soto till the 1st of May, 1718, when, on account of the scarcity of water, it was removed to the west bank of the San Pedro, about three fourths of a mile north-west of the present parish church of San Antonio. Here it remained, under the protection of the post [fort] of San Antonio de Valero, whose name it assumed, until 1722, when, on account of troubles with the Indians, it was once more removed, with the post, to what is now known as the
Military Plaza.
The main square, or
Plaza of the Constitution
, was formed in 1730, by the colonists sent out at the request of De Aguayo.San Antonio de Bexar
(
Vejar
), while the town on the east of the church was known as
San Fernando.
* “In the course of that year, says the ancient record, came twelve families of pure Spanish blood, from the Canary Islands, who laid out and founded the city of San Antonio. Among the settlers was a Garcia, a Flores, a Navarro and a Garaza, names afterward prominent in the revolutionary history of Texas, while it was claimed as a Spanish colony. One year after their arrival the colonists, assisted by the Franciscan fathers and their crowds of Indian converts, erected the quaint church which now, defaced and battered by the storms of one hundred and twenty-seven years, stands in the main plaza of the city, a monument of the almost buried past. Its evening bells echo sweetly their chimes as in the days of long ago, and crowds of worshipers still kneel upon the old stone floor, and bow before the venerable picture of the Crucifixion which hangs, all dim and discolored, above the altar.”
In May, 1774, the people, tired of the lawsuit between the ex-governors Sandoval and Franquis, laid the foundation of the church of their old mission, where it now stands unfinished, as the
church of the Alamo.
It had been seeking a resting place for nearly half a century, and it was time that it should find one. From this period until 1783, it was still known and conducted as the mission of
San Antonio de Valero.
In the meantime, the number of Indians under its charge increased, and as they became civilized, were settled around the mission, thus forming a town on the east side of the river. The company of San Carlos de Parras was stationed there for the protection of the town and mission. It enjoyed a separate organization, and had its own
alcalde
, and place of worship. But, about this last-named period, the place ceased to be a missionary station. All the Indians brought in for conversion had for some time previously been taken to the missions below the town—perhaps the better to secure them against its corrupting influences; so that, having no further missionary work to perform, San Antonio de Valero became an ordinary
The traveler already quoted from, in describing the Missions on the San Antonio River, in the vicinity of the town, which were named respectively San Jose, La Espada, San Juan and Concepcion, says:
They were large, strong, half church, half fortress edifices, in appearance something like the feudal castles of olden time, whose ruins are scattered all over Europe, surrounded by a high and massive stone wall, with only one entrance. The buildings, consisting of chapels, dormitories, halls, cells and kitchens, were all built of limestone, the quarrying and transporting of which must alone have been an immense labor, as some of the edifices were of great extent. Each mission was surrounded by an extensive farm, whose acequias and irrigating ditches are yet visible. Among all the missions in this section that of San Jose must have been conspicuous from its size, its strength, and the rude splendor with which it was decorated. Still may be seen carvings of saints and sacred relies upon the walls and ceilings. Over the main entrance, which is garnished by many ornaments, there is yet a battered representation of the Virgin and her infant, and the patron, San Jose, cut in the hard limestone. Profane heritics have used the eyes and nose of the venerable saint, and the place “where his heart ought to be,” for targets, where they have chronicled their skill as marksmen. The chapel front is ornamented with coarse fresco painting, in red, yellow and blue, in its day, doubtless, to the ignorant beings who worshiped there, a grand exhibition of art. From San Jose we visited the mission of Concepcion, which was once a lofty structure with two tall towers and a dome, surrounded by a thick arched wall. We found a lot of Mexican cattle-herders in full possession, and the main chapel room filled with filth and rubbish. The outbuildings and arches are overgrown with moss and weeds. In the soft twilight which was slowly stealing over the San Antonio valley the scene was solemn and sad, and we startled at our own footsteps upon the desolate pavement, half expecting to see the cowled figure of some ghostly monk start from the gloomy arches to rebuke our unhallowed intrusion.
The Mission of San Jose.
Crossing the San Antonio River from the main plaza, we came to a quaint old edifice, whose seamed and battered front betokens an acquaintance with shot and shell. It was built after the Moorish style, and although of late a modern roof has been added, is the same old edifice, memorable in the annals of
Texan independence—the Alamo!
a name familiar to the American people as a “household word”—a name associated with a siege and a defense the like of which can scarcely be found in the history of any state. The place where fell Bowie, Travis, Crockett, and a band of as brave spirits as ever upheld struggling freedom in any quarter of the globe.
The Alamo, was never intended for a fortress, but its walls are very strong, and it has been the scene of severe conflicts beside that which has given it such wide renown. One of these was in the year 1835, when Gen. Cos, commanding a strong Mexican force, was besieged in San Antonio by the Texans, under Gen. Burleson. The siege was about to be abandoned, when information“Who will go with old Ben Milam into San Antonio?
” The reply was an approving shout from the officers and men, who volunteered, to the number of 301, to make the assault, and elected Milam as their leader. The plan adopted was to storm the town the next morning in two divisions, the first under Col. Milam, and the second under Col. Frank W. Johnson.
The Alamo, San Antonio.
The Alamo, the “Thormopylæ of Texan Independence” where fell Bowie, Travis, Crockett, with all the rest of its brave garrison, not even one being left to tell the story of its heroic defense, is yet standing in the town of San Antonio, and is used by the Quartermaster's Department of the U. S. Army. The view to faithfully taken in all its details and adjuncts, even to the costumes in the foreground, where is shown the Mexican ox-cart, with its broad wooden wheels devoid of iron tires. The church, which was the main fortress, is shown, on a larger scale, on a preceding page.
The town was fortified at the public square by breastworks and batteries, besides which the houses being of stone were in effect like so many forts. The Alamo, which is on the east side of the river—the main part of the town, with the plaza, being on the west—commands some of the entrances to it, and was, at the time, strongly fortified and garrisoned. The assault began just before daylight on the morning of the 5th, the first division attacking on one side of the town, and the second on the opposite. The storming lasted three days. The Texans gradually worked their way to the center of the place. The Mexicans occupied the tops of the houses, and cutting loopholes in the parapet walls, fired upon their foe. The Texans, with picks and crowbars, made passage ways through the houses; first thrusting through their rifles and firing upon their defenders, they drove them from room to room, and from house to house, until, thus gallantly fighting inch by inch, they had penetrated so near
the plaza
, that Gen. Cos, on the morning of the 9th, seeing further resistance hopeless, sent in a flag of truce, expressing a wish to capitulate. The next day the terms were concluded. They were most honorable to the Mexicans, and more glorious in their moderation to the Texans, than the victory itself. The Mexican officers were permitted to retain their arms and private
The
“Fall of the Alamo,”
like the famous defense of Thermopylæ, is an event that will long live among the heroic incidents of history. At two o'clock in the afternoon, Feb. 23, 1836, Santa Anna, with the second division of the Mexican army, marched into the town of San Antonio, having been preceded by an advance detachment the second day preceding. His army numbered several thousand strong, and comprised the choicest troops of his country. On the same day a regular siege of the Alamo commenced and lasted eleven days, until the final assault. The Alamo was then garrisoned by 156 men, under Lieut. Col. Wm. Barret Travis, with Col. James Bowie, second, as is believed, in command. Col. David Crockett was also with the garrison, but it is unknown whether he had a command, as he had joined it only a few weeks before:
Santa Anna immediately demanded a surrender of the garrison
without terms!
their reply was a shot from the fort. He then raised a
blood red flag
on the church at Bexar, as a token of vengeance against the rebels, and began an attack, and this by slow approaches. Travis sent off an express with a strong appeal for aid, declaring that he would
never surrender nor retreat.
For many days no marked incidents occurred in the siege. On the 1st of March, 32 gallant men, from Gonzales, under Capt. John W. Smith, entered the Alamo, and raised the effective force to 188 men. On the 2d, Travis sent out by a courier a last appeal, setting forth fully his determination to remain until he got relief or perished in the defense. About the same time he also wrote an affecting note to a friend, “Take care of my little boy. If the country should be saved, I may make him a splendid fortune; but if the country should be lost, and I should perish, he will have
nothing but the proud recollection that he is the son of a man who died for his country.
”
The account of the final assault, with the accompanying description of the Alamo, we take from the “Fall of the Alamo,” a pamphlet by Capt. R. M. Potter, published at San Antonio, in July, 1860. He had unusual opportunities for obtaining all that can be known of the final tragedy, the details of which have not been accurately given, for the reason that not a single defender survived it:
Santa Anna after calling a council of war on the 4th of March, fixed upon the morning of Sunday, the 6th, as the time for the final assault. Before narrating it, however, I must describe the Alamo as it then existed. It had been founded soon after the first settlement of the vicinity, and being originally built as a place of safety for the settlers and their property in case of Indian hostility, with sufficient room for that purpose, it had neither the strength nor compactness, nor the arrangement of dominant points, which belong to a regular fortification.
* The front of the Alamo Chapel bears the date of 1757; but the other works must have been built earlier.
As its area contained between two and three acres, a thousand men would barely have sufficed to man its defenses, and before a heavy siege train its walls would soon have crumbled.
From recollection of the locality, as viewed in 1841, I can trace the extent of the outer walls, which were demolished thirteen years ago; and the accompanying diagram is made from actual measurement.
(A) Represents the Chapel or the fortress, which is 75 feet long, 62 wide, and 22½ high, the wall of solid masonry being four feet thick. It was originally in one story, but PLAN
OF
THE
ALAMO
1836n n n
) locate the doors of the several houses which opened upon it. Most of those doors had within each a semi-circular barricade or parapet composed of a double curtain of hides upheld by stakes and filled in with earth. From behind these the garrison could fire front or oblique through the doors. Some of the rooms were also loopholed. (o o) describes a wall from five to six feet high and 2¾ thick, which inclosed a smaller area east of the long barrack and north of the church, 189 feet by 102. (P) locates an upper room in the south-east angle of said barrack—(Q) a breach in the north barrier, and (R) an intrenchment running from the south-east angle of the chapel to the gate. This work was not manned against the assault. According to Santa Anna's report
It was resolved by Santa Anna that the assault should take place at early dawn. The order for the attack, which I have read, but have no copy of, was full and precise in its details, and was signed by Brig. Gen. Amador as head of the staff. The besieging force consisted of the battalions of Toluca, Jimenes, Matamoros, los Zapadores (or sappers), and another, which I think was that of Guerrero, and the dragoon regiment of Dolores. The infantry was directed at a certain hour, between midnight and dawn, to form at a convenient distance from the fort in four columns of attack and a reserve. This disposition was not made by battalions; for the light companies of all of them were incorporated with the Zapadores to form the reserve, and some other transpositions may have been made. A certain number of scaling ladders and axes were to be borne with particular columns. The cavalry were to be stationed at different points around the fortress to cut off fugitives. From what I have learned of men engaged in the action it seems that these disposition were changed on the eve of attack, so far as to combine the five bodies of infantry into three columns of attack. This included the troops designated in the order as the reserve; and the only actual reserve that remained was the cavalry.
The immediate command of the assault was intrusted to Gen. Castrillon, a Spaniard by birth and a brilliant soldier. Santa Anna took his station with a part of his staff and all the regimental bands at a battery south of the Alamo and near the old bridge, from which the signal was to be given by a bugle note for the columns to move simultaneously, at double quick time, against different points of the fortress. One, composed mainly of the battalion of Toluca was to enter the north breach—the other two to move against the southern side: one to attack the gate of the large area—the other to storm the chapel. By the timing of the signal, it was calculated that the columns would reach the foot of the wall just as it became light enough to operate.
When the hour came the batteries and the music were alike silent, and a single blast of the bugle was at first followed by no sound save the rushing tramp of soldiers. The guns of the fortress soon opened upon them, and then the bands at the south battery struck up the assassin note of
deguello
—“no quarter!” But a few and not very effective discharges from the works could be made before the enemy were under them;
* A sergeant of the Zapadores told me that the column he belonged to encountered but one discharge of grape in moving up, and that passed mostly over the men's heads.
In the meantime the turning of Travis' gun had been imitated by the garrison. A small
The church was the last point taken. The column which moved against it, consisting of the battalion of Jimenes and other troops, was at first repulsed, and took refuge among some old houses outside of the barrier, near its south-west angle, till it was rallied and led on by Gen. Amador. It was soon joined by the rest of the force, and the church was carried by a
coup de main.
Its inmates, like the rest, fought till the last, and continued to fire from the upper platforms after the enemy occupied the floor of the building. A Mexican officer told of seeing a man shot in the crown of the head in this melee. During the closing struggle Lieut. Dickinson, with his child in his arms, or tied to his back as some accounts say, leaped from an upper window (B), and both were killed in the act. Of those he left behind him the bayonet soon gleaned what the bullet missed; and in the upper part of the church the last defender must have fallen. The morning breeze which received his parting breath probably still fanned his flag above that fabric, ere it was pulled down by the victor.
* It is a fact not often remembered, that Travis and his men died under the Mexican Federal flag of 1824 instead of the “Lone Star,” although the independence of Texas, unknown to them, had been declared four days before. They died for a Republic whose existence they never knew.
The Alamo had fallen.
The action, according to Santa Anna's report, lasted thirty minutes. It was certainly short, and possibly no longer space passed between the moment when the enemy fronted the breach and that when resistance died out. Some of the incidents which have to be related separately no doubt occurred simultaneously, and occupied very little time.
The account of the assault which Yoakum and others have adopted as authentic, is evidently one which popular tradition has based on conjecture.
A negro boy, belonging to Travis, the wife of Lieut. Dickinson, Mrs. Alsbury a native of San Antonio, and another Mexican woman, and two children, were the only inmates of the fortress whose lives were spared. The children were those of the two females whose names are given. Lieut. Dickinson commanded a gun in the east upper window of the church. His family was probably in one of the two small upper rooms of the front. This will account for his being able to take one of his children to the rear platform while the building was being stormed. A small irrigating canal runs below the window referred to; and his aim in the desperate attempt at flight, probably was to break his fall by leaping into the water; but the shower of bullets which greeted him rendered the precaution as needless as it was hopeless.
At the time the outer barriers were carried, a few men leaped from them and attempted to escape, but were all cut down by the cavalry. Half an hour or more after the action was over a few men were found concealed in one of the rooms under some mattresses—Gen. Houston, in a letter of the 11th, says as many as seven; but I have generally heard them spoken of as only three or four. The officer to whom they were first reported entreated Santa Anna to spare their lives; but he was sternly rebuked and the men ordered to be shot, which was done. Owing to the hurried and confused manner in which the mandate was obeyed a Mexican soldier was accidentally killed with them.
Castrillon was the soul of the assault. Santa Anna remained at the south battery with the music of the whole army and a part of his staff, till he supposed the place was nearly mastered, when he moved up with that escort toward the Alamo; but returned again on being greeted by a few rifle balls from the upper windows of the church. He, however, entered the area toward the close of the scene, and directed some of the last details of the butchery.
The five infantry corps that formed the attacking force, according to the data already referred to, amounted to about twenty-five hundred men. The number of Mexican wounded according to various accounts, largely exceeded that of the killed; and the estimates made of both by intelligent men who were in the action, and whose candor I think could be relied on, rated their loss at from one hundred and fifty to two hundred killed, and from three to four hundred wounded. The real loss of the assailants in killed and wounded probably did not differ much from five hundred men. Gen. Bradburn was of opinion that
85
Of the foregoing details which do not refer to documentary authority, I obtained many from Gen. Bradburn, who arrived at San Antonio a few days after the action, and gathered them from officers who were in it. A few I had through a friend from General Amador. Others again I received from three intelligent sergeants, who were men of fair education and I think truthful. One of them, Serg. Becero, of the battalion of Matamoras, who was captured at San Jacinto, was for several years my servant in Texas. From men of their class I could generally get more candid statements as to loss and other matters than from commissioned officers. I have also gathered some minor particulars from local tradition preserved among the residents of this town. When most of the details thus learned were acquired I had not seen the locality; and hence I have to locate some of the occurrences by inference; which I have done carefully and I think correctly.
The stranger will naturally inquire, “Where lie the heroes of the Alamo?” and Texas can only reply by a silent blush. A few hours after the action, the bodies of the slaughtered garrison were gathered up by the victors, laid in three piles, mingled with fuel, and burned. On the 25th of February, near a year after, their bones and ashes were collected, placed in a coffin, and interred with due solemnity, and with military honors, by Colonel Seguin and his command. The place of burial was in what was then a peach orchard outside the town a few hundred yards from the Alamo. It is now a large inclosed lot in the midst of the Alamo suburb.
“It was on the night Gen. Houston reached Gonzales,” says Yoakum, “that two Mexicans brought the first news of the fall of the Alamo, and the death of its defenders. The scene produced in the town by these sad tidings can not be described. At least a dozen women with their children, in that place alone, had thus been left widows and orphans. In fact, there was scarcely a family in the town but had to mourn the loss of one or more of its members. ‘For four-and-twenty hours,’ says Capt. Handy, ‘after the news reached us, not a sound was heard, save the wild shrieks of the women, and the heart-rending screams of their fatherless children. Little groups of men might be seen in various corners of the town, brooding over the past, and speculating of the future; but they scarcely spoke above a whisper. The public and private grief was alike heavy. It sank deep into the heart of the rudest soldier.’ To soften as much as possible the unhappy effect of the intelligence, Houston caused the two Mexicans to be arrested and kept under guard, as spies.”
In the Comanche war of 1840, a severe fight occurred in the town of San Antonio, between a company of Texans and a party of Comanche chiefs, who had come in to make a treaty, in which the latter were all killed. The event is thus given in Yoakum's History:
The Comanches had made frequent forays into the Texan settlements, and among other outrages, had carried off several captives. In February, 1840, a few of these Indians came to San Antonio, for the purpose of making a treaty of peace with Texas. They were told by the commissioners to bring in the thirteen white captives they had, and peace would be granted; they promised that, at the next full moon, they would do so. The commissioners repaired to Bexar to meet them; and on the 19th of March, a little after the appointed time, the Indians, sixty-five in all, including men, women and children, came in, bringing, however, but one of the captives. Twelve chiefs met the commissioners in the treaty-house, and the question was put to them, “Where are the prisoners you promisod to bring in to this talk?” They answered: “We brought the only one we had; the others are with other tribes.” The little girl who had been brought in said this was utterly false, as she had seen the others at the Indian camp a few days before, and that they intended to bring in only one or two at a time, in order to extort for them the greater ransom. A pause ensued for some time in the council, when the same chief who had given the answer inquired how they liked it. No reply was made, but an order was dispatched to Capt. Howard to bring his company into the council-room.
As the commissioners were retiring from the room, one of the chiefs sprang to the door; and the sentinel there stationed, in attempting to prevent his escape, was stabbed by him with a knife. Captain Howard received a like wound. The remaining chiefs now rose, drew their knives, and prepared their bows and arrows, and the fight became general. The soldiers killed the whole of the chiefs engaged in the council. The warriors, not of the council, fought desperately in the yard; but the company under Captain Redd advancing, forced them to take shelter in a stone house, whither they were pursued and cut down. A party of the savages at last made their way to the opposite side of the river, but were pursued, and all killed, except a renegade Mexican, who was permitted to escape. All the warriors, thirty-two in number, together with three women and two children, were killed. Twenty-seven women and children were made prisoners. In this remarkable fight none escaped except the Mexican. The Texans had seven killed and eight wounded.
The Comanches hung about San Antonio in small parties, brooding over their loss. The killing of so many of their chiefs was a severe stroke, and they were divided on the question of war. At length they retired to their homes, on the upper branches of the Texan rivers, to make serious preparations for a terrible visitation on the white settlements.
* After this the Texans carried on a war of extermination. In an excursion against one of the Comanche villages in the ensuing fall, under Col. John H. Moore, “the bodies of man women, and children, were seen on every hand, dead, wounded and dying.”
Eastern view of the Steamboat Landing, at Houston.
The view shows the appearance of the Landing, etc., on the right bank of the Buffalo Bayou, as it is approached from the east. Some of the Cotton Warehouses appear on the left. In the distance, on the opposite bank of the stream, the Texan Central Railroad commences.
Houston,
the county seat for Harris county, and formerly the state capital, is situated on the Buffalo Bayou, at the head of steamboat navigation, 50
Ancient Capitol.
The engraving is from a drawing of the first State House in Texas. It is situated on the main street of Houston. and is now occupied as a public house, known as the “Old Capitol Hotel.” The addition at the end was formerly of but one story, and was used as a committee room.
Houston was laid out by John K. and A. C. Allen, and the settlement was commenced in 1836. The first building was a log house belonging to Col. Benj. Fort Smith, near the site of the present postoffice, about 200 yards from the bayou. The first framed building stood on the east side of Main-street; the upper story was used as a theater, the lower part for a drinking saloon. It has been moved to the west side of the street, and is now used by Mr. W. R. Wilson as a hardware store. Dr. J. L. Bryan was the first who passed a wagon over the bayou: this was accomplished by means of two canoes or
“dug-outs,”
the wheels on one side of the wagon were placed in one of the boats, and the opposite wheels in the other. The first clergymen in the place were Mr. Hall, Presbyterian; Mr. Fowler, Methodist; and Mr. Woodruff, Baptist. The first hotel was kept in Col. Smith's log house.
Goliad,
the capital of Goliad county, is on the right bank of the San Antonio, 100 miles below the town of San Antonio, and has about 600 inhabitants. It was anciently called La Bahia, and was the seat of a mission establishment. It is one of the oldest towns in Texas, and was formerly a point of much importance: its name implies a
place of strength.
Its fortifications were immense, and considered by the Spaniards as impregnable: they are still in existence, though mostly in ruins. Amid these ruins stands the old church, on the brow of the hill, in tolerable preservation. In this church and fortifications, shown in the view, Fannin's men were confined previous to their massacre, and the wounded, who were killed apart from their companions, were executed within the works.
Like all the old places in Texas, Goliad abounds in historical incidents.“Farnin's Massacre,”
the most terrible event in the annals of the Texan war of independence.
“In 1836, while Santa Anna was concentrating his forces at San Antonio de Bexar, another division of the forces under Gen. Urrea, proceeded along the line of the coast. Col. Fannin, then at Goliad, sent twenty-eight men about twenty-five miles distant, under Captain King, to remove some families to a place of safety. They lost their way in the prairie, and were taken prisoners and shot by Urrea. Col. Fannin having received no tidings from King, sent out Col. Ward with a larger detachment, who falling in with the enemy, had two engagements with him; in the last, overwhelmed by numbers, he was obliged to surrender. On the 18th of March, Fannin's force being reduced to two hundred and seventy-five men, he left Goliad and commenced retreating toward Victoria; and on that afternoon was overtaken on a prairie and surrounded by the Mexican infantry, and some Indian allies. The Texans, arranging themselves in a hollow square, successfully repelled all charges. At dusk, the Indians, by command of Urrea, threw themselves upon the ground, and under cover of the tall grass, crawled up and poured a destructive fire upon the Texans. As soon as it was sufficiently dark to discern the flashes of their guns, the Texans soon picked them off and drove them back. The Mexicans withdrew and encamped for the night, having lost a large number of men. The Texan loss was seven killed and about sixty wounded. The Texans threw up a breastwork during the night; but when morning dawned, discovered that their labor had been useless, for Urrea was joined by five hundred fresh troops with artillery. Upon this, Fannin seeing the inutility of farther resistance against an army ten times his superior, surrendered on condition that they should be treated as prisoners of war.” The terms, in substance, were as follows, which, with the remainder of the narrative, we extract from Yoakum's History:
Ruins at Goliad.
Old Church and Fortification, the scene of Fannin's Massacre.
“1. That the Texans should be received and treated as prisoners of war, according to the usages of the most civilized nations. 2. That private property should be respected and restored; but that the side-arms of the officers should be given up. 3. That the men should be sent to Copano, and thence, in eight days, to the United States, or so soon thereafter as vessels could be procured to take them. 4. That the officers should be paroled, and returned to the United States in like mannet. Gen. Urrea, immediately sent Col. Holzinger and other officers to consummate the agreement. It was reduced to writing in both the English and Spanish languages, read over two or three times, signed, and the writings exchanged in “the most formal and solemn manner.”
The Texans immediately piled their arms, and such of them as were able to march were hurried off to Goliad, where they arrived at sunset on the same day (the 20th). The wounded, among whom was Col. Fannin, did not reach the place till the 22d. At Goliad the prisoners were crowded into the old church, with no other food than a scanty pittance of beef, without bread or salt.
On the 23d, Col. Fannin and Col. Holzinger proceeded to Copano, to ascertain if a vessel could be procured to convey the Texans to the United States; but the vessel they expected to obtain had already left that port. They did not return till the 26th. On the 23d, Maj. Miller, with eighty Texan volunteers, who had just landed at Copano, were taken prisoners and brought into Goliad by Col. Vara.
The evening of the 26th passed off pleasantly enough. Col. Fannin was entertaining his friends with the prospect of returning to the United States; and some of the young men, who could perform well on the flute, were playing “
Home, sweet Home.
” How happy we are that the vail of the future is suspended before us! At seven o'clock that night, an order, brought by an extraordinary courier from Santa Anna, required
the prisoners to be shot!
Detailed regulations were sent as to the mode of executing this cold-blooded and atrocious order. Col. Portilla, the commandant of the place, did not long hesitate in its execution. He had four hundred and forty-five prisoners under his charge. Eighty of these brought from Copano, having just landed, and who as yet had done no fighting, were considered as not within the scope of the order, and for the time were excused. The services of four of the Texan physicians—that is, Drs. Joseph H. Bernard, Field, Hall, and Shackleford—being needed to take care of the Mexican wounded, their lives were Spared. So likewise were four others, who were assistants in the hospital, Messrs. Bills, Griffin, Smith and Skerlock.
At dawn of day, on Palm Sunday, March 27th, the Texans were awakened by a Mexican officer, who said he wished them to form a line, that they might be counted. The men were marched out in separate divisions, under different pretexts. Some were told that they were to be taken to Copano, in order to be sent home; others that they were going out to slaughter beeves; and others, again, that they were being removed to make room in the fort for Santa Anna. Dr. Shackleford, who had been invited by Col. Guerrier to his tent, about a hundred yards south-eastwardly from the fort, says: ‘In about half an hour, we heard the report of a volley of small-arms, toward the river, and to the east of the fort. I immediately inquired the cause of the firing, and was assured by the officer that ‘he did not know, but supposed it was the guard firing off their guns.’ In about fifteen or twenty minutes thereafter, another such volley was fired, directly south of us, and in front. At the same time I could distinguish the heads of some of the men through the boughs of some peach trees, and could hear their screams. It was then, for the first time, the awful conviction seized upon our minds that
treachery
and
Murder
had begun their work! Shortly afterward, Col. Guerrier appeared at the mouth of the tent. I asked him if it could be possible they were murdering our men. He replied that ‘it was so; but he had not given the order, neither had he executed it.”
In about an hour more, the wounded left in the barracks, were dragged out into the fort yard and butchered. Col. Fannin was the last to suffer. When informed of his fate, he met it like a soldier. He handed his watch to the officer whose business it was to murder him, and requested him to have him shot in the
breast
and not in the
head
, and likewise to see that his remains should be decently buried. These natural and proper requirements the officer promised should be fulfilled, but, with that perfidy which is so prominent a characteristic of the Mexican race, he failed to do either! Fannin seated himself in a chair, tied the handkerchief over his eyes, and bared his bosom to receive the fire of the soldiers.
As the different divisions were brought to the place of execution, they were ordered to sit down with their backs to the guard. In one instance, ‘young Fenner rose on his feet, and exclaimed,
‘Boys they are going to kill us—die with your faces to them, like men!
’ At the same time, two other young men, flourishing their caps over their heads, shouted at the top of their voices,
‘Hurrah for Texas!
”
Many attempted to escape; but the most of those who survived the first fire were cut down by the pursuing cavalry, or afterward shot. It is believed that, in all twenty-seven * Of the twenty-seven who escaped, probably not six are, at this lapse of time, living, One of the survivors, Mr. Herman Ehrenberg, now (1861) of Arizonia, related to us his manner of escape. He was at the time a mere youth, and was at the end of his company when the order was given to fire. Unhurt by the discharge, he sprang and ran for the river bank, when he received a sabre cut from a Mexican officer—the evidence of the wound he carries to this day, and just where a brave man likes it, in the
forehead. Ehrenberg thereupon grappled and wrested his sword from him, and then continued his flight, dashed into the river, and swimming across, escaped. Some years since a narrative of his Texan campaign adventures was published in Germany—at Leipsio, we think—whither the MS. was sent, though the author never saw a copy of the printed book. In a private letter before us, he gives an outline which illustrates the life of adventure, of which our country furnishes so many examples. “In Texas I belonged to the Now Orleans Grays—was the third man (boy) who signed his name for Texas as a volunteer, in the Arcade building. Was at the storming of San Antonio—Fannin's—and afterward twice prisoner with the Mexicans. Went over the Rocky Mountains to Washington and Oregon in 1844—'45 and '46 in the Sandwich Islands, and numerous groups in the southern hemisphere, and South America—returned to California—'46–'47 west coast of Mexico—'48–'49, California—'50, discovered the month of Klamath River and the
Gold Bluff, and the
first gold on the seashore. Consequent great excitement in California, notwithstanding my reports against it —'54, went to Sonora and Arizona, and there ever since.”
Mr. S. H. B., now a well known merchant of Cincinnati, was at the time a lad of 18 years of age, and the private secretary of Major Miller. From his lips we have gathered these details:
Miller's command was not included in the massacre. We were saved by the interfence of the wife of Alvarez, the Mexican officer by whom we were taken: she was a most noble woman, who persuaded her husband to spare us. Santa Anna subsequently dispatched orders for
our
execution, but we had so happily won the esteem of the Mexican officers that they united in a petition in our behalf to Santa Anna. In the meantime occurred the victory of San Jacinto, and Santa Anna was himself a prisoner. Our men were soon released, but the major and myself were conducted to Matamoras, and after an imprisonment of three months escaped from them on horseback, in the disguise of Mexican officers, and in this way passed through the ranks of several of their corps on their march thither.
The morning of the massacre was slightly foggy. Without understanding wherefore, we, of Miller's command, were ordered to tie a
white
band around our left arms; some of us tore pieces from our shirts for that purpose. This was to distinguish us from Fannin's men, who alone were doomed. We were conducted out to a peach and fig grove, in front of the church, and in sight of two of the three parties into which Fannin's men were divided: the third being out of view behind the church, near the river bank. When the firing began, boy as I was, I was impressed by the varied expressions in the faces of our men, thus made unexpected witnesses of the awful tragedy. Surprise, horror, grief and revenge were depicted in the most vivid lines. At first all were startled: some became at once horror stricken, others wept in silent agony, still others laughed in their passion, swore, clinched their teeth, and looked like demons. Now, at the lapse of more than a quarter of a century, I can never think or talk of that dreadful scene with any degree of composure. Some of the poor fellows attempted to escape, and of course outrun the Mexicans: but then the cavalry! Just as one of these men of Fannin's had got fairly clear of his pursuers, a mounted Mexican from close by me at once started on the chase, and catching up with him, cut him down. Never did I so want to hamstring a horse. Those not killed outright, were deliberately butchered by the Mexicans, men and women, and stripped. This over, some of them, even the women, as they passed by us on their return laden with plunder, insulted us by the grossest vulgarities, shook their fists in our faces, swearing in taunting tones and the vilest words—
“Your turn—to-morrow!
”
The stripped bodies of the slain were collected and placed in piles. Those of the wounded who had been massacred at the fort, Fannin's among the rest, were chucked stark naked into carts, like so many dead hogs, carried out and dumped on top of the others. Brush was then piled over the whole and set on fire. It took several days' successive burnings to consume them. Nightly the prairie wolves gathered to feast on the half roasted bodies, and kept up their howlings through all the long hours, and as the day dawned their execrable screams increased, in rage at being thus driven by the morning light from their horrid banquet!
Austin,
named from the founder of Texas, is on the left bank of the Colorado, about 255 miles N.W. from Galveston, and 1,420 from Washington. It is built on a plain, elevated some 30 or 40 feet above the level of the river. Population about 4,500. The capitol building crowns an eminence at the head of Congress Avenue, the main street of Austin. It is of the Ionic order of architecture, 90 feet deep by 145 feet in front: the entire hight, from the foundation to the top of the dome, is 101 feet. The building is constructed of an oolite of a soft white color, at a cost of $150,000. The governor's house is a brick edifice, and on an eminence about 300 yards from the capitol. The treasury department and the general land office are fine buildings. Austin has been sometimes mistaken by strangers for San Felipe De Austin, and which of late years has simply been called San Felipe.
The Capitol of Texas, at Austin.
“The
old
capitol in Austin was a rather rudely constructed frame building, and was for a year or two the place of session for the congress of the Republic of Texas. Its walls have reverberated to the eloquent appeals of many of the most patriotic and gifted sons of Texas. The convention which formed our present state constitution met in it, July 4, 1845. There the legislature continued to convene until the new capitol was finished. Since then it has been used for various purposes. It is gone now—torn down.
One by one the vestiges of our former nationality disappear. In the old Texan these things produce a sorrowful impression, despite the conviction that they are the results of time and progress. He can not forget the day when this humble house was the capitol of a nation few in number, but rich in the elements of patriotism—blindly and ardently devoted to the country, and ever ready with stout hands and brave hearts to defend it. His mind will revert to old times—old scenes and old men—to the period when every citizen was, perforce, a soldier, and all felt and acted as a band of brothers. And in no instance was the feeling more evident than on the 19th of February, 1846. When President Anson Jones, on the steps of that same old house, in an impressive and touching address, announced the change of government—the annexation of Texas to the Union; and concluded by saying,
‘The Republic of Texas is no more!
’ there was a smothering of sensations which all felt, yet few desired to display in public. Broad chests heaved—strong hands were clinched, and tears were flowing down cheeks where they had been strangers for long, long years. It was a moment of deep, intense emotion. Had any one doubted the affection of Texans for the beautiful land of their adoption, this scene would have removed all skepticism.
The old house is gone—it has disappeared before the resistless wave of progress —it is numbered with the things that were; yet there are loyal hearts which will beat faster when they think of the bygone days when it was the capitol of a fearless
‘Still o'er these scenes my memory wakes
And fondly broods with miser-care;
Time but the impression deeper makes,
As streams their channels deeper wear.’’—[
The monument erected to the memory of the heroes of the Alamo at the capital, is ten feet high, and is constructed of stones taken from the ruins of the Alamo. The following are the inscriptions:
North front
—To the
God
of the fearless and free is dedicated this
Altar,
made from the ruins of the
Alamo.
March 6, 1836, A.D.—
Crockett.
West front
—Blood of Heroes hath stained me. Let the stones of the
Alamo
speak that their immolation be not forgotten, March 6, 1836, A.D.—
Bonham.
South front
—Do they enrolled with Leonidas in the host of the MIGHTY DEAD. March 6, 1836, A.D.—
Travis.
East front
—
Thermopyl
had her messenger of defeat, but the Alamo had none. March 6, 1836, A.D.—
Bowie.
The following names of those who fell are inscribed on the north and south sides of the monument. The list comprises nearly all of the slain:
M. Autry, R. Allen, M. Andress, Ayres, J. Baker, Burns, Bailey, J. Beard, Bailess, Bourn, R. Cunningham, J. Clark, J. Cane, Cloud, S. Crawford, Cary, W. Cummings, R. Crossan, Cockran, G. W. Cottle, J. Dust, J. Dillard, A. Dickinson, C. Despalier, L. Lavall, J. C. Day, J. Dickens, Devault, W. Dearduff, J. Ewing, T. R. Evans, D. Floyd, J. Flanders, W. Fishbaugh, Forsyth, G. Fuga, J. C. Goodrich, J. George, J. Gaston, J. C. Garrett, W. Mills, Micheson, E. T. Mitchell, E. Melton, McGregor, T. Miller, J. McCoy, E. Morton, R. Musselman, Millsop, R. B. Moore, W. Marshall, Moore, Anderson, W. Blazoby, J. B. Bowman, Baker, R. McKenny, McCafferty, J. McGee, G. W. Main, M. Querry, C. Nelson, J. Noland, Nelson, Wm. G. Nelson, C. Ostiner, Polone C. Parker, N. Pollard, G. Paggan, S. C. Blair, Blair, Brown, Bowin, S. Robinson, Reddenson, N. Rough, Rusk, Robbins, W. Smith, Sears, C. Smith, Stockton, Stewart, Sears, C. Smith, Stockton, Stewart, A. Smith, J. C. Smith, Sewall, Balentine, J. J. Bough, Burnell, Butler, C. Grimes, Gwin, J. E. Garwin, Gillmore, Hutchason, S. Holloway, Harrison, Hieskell, J. Hayes, Horrell, Harris, Hawkins, J. Holland, W. Hersie, Ingram, John, J. Jones, L. Johnson, C. B. Jamison, W. Johnson, T. Jackson, D. Jackson, Jackson, G. Kemble, A. Kent, W. King, Kenney, J. Kenny, Lewis, W. Linn, Wm. Lightfoot, J. Lonly, Lanio, W. Lightfoot, G. W. Linn, Lewis, A. Smith, Simpson, R. Star, Starn, N. Sutherland, W. Summers, J. Summerline, Thompson, Tomlinson, Bros. W. Taylor.
Thornton, Thomas, J. M. Thurston, Valentine, Williamson, D. Wilson, Walsh, Washington, W. Wells, C. Wright, R. White, J. Washington, T. Waters, Warnell, J. White, D. Wilson, J. Wilson, A. Wolf, L. J. Wilson, Warner.
E. Taylor,
G. Taylor,
J. Taylor,Alamo Monument.
New Braunfels
is the largest town of the German settlers in Texas. It is on the Gaudaloupe in the south-western part of the state, 32 miles north-east from San Antonio, and is the capital of Gaudaloupe county. Population about 2,000.
It is in this section of Texas that the business of cattle raising, horse and sheep breeding is extensively carried on. The widely known sheep farm or ranche of Geo. W. Kendall, Esq., is just in the outskirts of New Braunfels, under the care of a Scotch head shepherd, bred to the business on the Cheviot Hills, on the banks of the Tweed: all extra labor is done by Germans from the town. Mr. Kendall, after years of experience, says that this industry “in Texas promises to be as profitable as any followed by man since the days of Abraham.”
A recent traveler gives this description of New Braunfels, or as the Germans spell it,
Neu-Braunfels:
The main street of the town, which we soon entered upon, was very wide—three times as wide, in effect, as Broadway in New York. The houses, with which it was thickly lined on each side for a mile, were small, low cottages, of no pretensions to elegance, yet generally looking neat and comfortable. Many were furnished with verandahs and gardens, and the greater part were either stuccoed or painted. There were many workshops of mechanics and small stores, with signs oftener in English than in German; and bare-headed women, and men in caps and short jackets, with pendent pipes, were everywhere seen at work.
The citizens are, however, nearly all men of very small capital. Of the original settlers scarcely any now remain, and their houses and lands are occupied by more recent emigrants. Those who have left have made enough money during their residence to enable them to buy farms or cattle-ranches in the mountains, to which they have removed. Half the men now residing in Neu-Braunfels and its vicinity, are probably agricultural laborers, or farmers, who themselves follow the plow. The majority of the latter do not, I think, own more than ten acres of land each. Within the town itself, there are a large number of master-mechanics, most of whom employ several workmen. Among them are seven wagon-makers, and their wagons are better made than the American.
A weekly newspaper is published—the
Neu-Braunfels Zeitung.
It is a paper of much higher character than most of the German American papers, edited by the naturalist Lindheimer. There are ten or twelve stores and small tradesmen's shops, two or three apothecaries, and as many physicians, lawyers and clergymen.
There are several organizations among the people which indicate an excellent spirit of social improvement: an Agricultural Society, a Mechanics' Institute, a Harmonic Society, a Society for Political Debates, and a “Turners'” Society. A horticultural club has expended $1,200 in one year in introducing trees and plants. These associations are the evidence of an active intellectual life, and desire for knowledge and improvement among the masses of the people.
In Neu-Braunfels and the surrounding German hamlets, there are five free schools for elementary education, one exclusive Roman Catholic school, a town free school of higher grade, and a private classical school. In
all
of these schools English is taught with German.
Sunday was observed more thoroughly as a day of rest from labor than we had seen in any town of Texas. The stores, except one kept by a New Englander, were closed during the day. The people who appeared in the streets were well dressed, quiet and orderly. We saw no drunkenness. In the evening there were amusements, among them a ball, which the Lutheran pastor was expected to attend. The health of the town is good. For several years there has been no epidemic illness. The greater part of those of whom I made inquiry assured me their health
In the town, each house has its garden-plot, and over the neighborhood are scattered hundreds of small farms. Owing to the low price of corn, most of these had been cultivated, partly, in cotton during the year before our visit. The result was a total crop of eight hundred bales, which, at Galveston, brought from one to two cents a pound more than that produced by slaves, owing to the more careful handling of white and personally interested labor; but the expense of hauling cotton to the coast prevents any large profits at this distance. A railroad or a local manufactory must precede any extensive cultivation of cotton, while corn, which requires much less labor, can find a market at a fair price. With water-power and hands upon the spot, it certainly seems an unnatural waste of labor to carry the staple to Massachusetts to be spun, but such, for want of local capital is now the course of trade.
In spite of the common assertion, that only blacks can endure the heat of southern labor, the production of cotton, by whites alone, is by no means rare. There are very many, both of those who work their own small cotton farms and of those who work with their few negroes, day after day in the field. But there is hardly in the south another as striking an instance of pure free-labor upon cotton-fields, as this of the Germans. Their cotton goes in one body to market, entirely separate from the great mass exported, and from their peculiar style of settlement, it may be even considered as the product of one large plantation, worked by white hands, and divided into well marked annual tasks.
The number of Germans in Texas is about 45,000, mostly in the southwestern section, where they are generally in communities by themselves, apart from the Americans, managing “after republican forms their own little affairs.” The writer whose description of New Braunfels we have presented is Mr. Fred. L. Olmsted. In his book, “A Journey through Texas, or a Saddle Trip on the South-western Frontier,” he has this history of the German settlements in Texas:
The most accurate and full published account of these German settlements is the report of a lecture, by Frederick Kapp, upon the Germans in Texas. From this, and from our notes of oral statements on the spot, I will concisely give the story. The experiment was a most interesting one; that of using
associated capital
for the transportation and settlement of emigrants on a large scale; in fact, the removal, in organized bodies, of the poor of an old country to the virgin soil of a new.
In the year 1842, among many schemes evolved in Germany by the social stir of the time, and patronized by certain princes, from motives of policy, was one of real promise. It was an association, of which Count Castel was the head, for the diminution of pauperism by the organized assistance and protection of emigrants. At this time, annexation being already almost a certainty, speculators, who represented the owners of large tracts of Texas land, appeared in Germany, with glowing accounts of their cheapness and richness. They succeeded in gaining the attention of this association, whose leaders were pleased with the isolated situation, as offering a more tangible and durable connection with their emigrants, and opening a new source of wealth and possible power. A German dependency or new Teutonic nation might result. Palmerston, it is said, encouraged the idea,
* According to the work of Mr. Siemering upon the Germans in Texas, this encouragement went so far as to take the form of a contract between the Verein and the British government. By it the former agreed to place 10,000 families in Texas; the latter to furnish armed protection to the colony. A new market with indefinite capacities; a new source of cotton; opposition to slavery and to the extension of the area of the United States; such were the sufficient motives for England. Prince Leiningen was the half-brother of the Queen of England. Prince Solms was an intimate friend of Prince Albert, with whom ho was educated at Bonn. Copies of the correspondence still exist.
In 1843, an agent of the association, Count Waldeck, visited Texas, but effected nothing else than to secure for himself a slave plantation, not far from the coast. He was dismissed. The following year the association commenced active operations. It obtained, under the title of the Mainzer Adels Verein, a charter from the Duke of Nassau, who assumed the protectorate. It had the Prince Leiningen as president; Count Castel as director; Prince Frederick of Prussia, the Duke of Coburg-Gotha, and some thirty other princes and nobles as associated members. A plan, inviting emigrants, was published, offering each adult, subscribing $120, a free passage and forty acres of land; a family, subscribing $240, a free passage and eighty acres. The association undertook to provide log houses, stock and tools at fair prices, and to construct public buildings and roads for the settlements.
Prince Solms, of Braunfels, was appointed General Commissioner and proceeded to Texas. Had he procured from the state legislature a direct grant of land for the colony, as he might have done, all would have been well. But, most unfortunately, the association was induced, without sufficient examination, to buy a grant of the previous year. It was held by Fisher and Miller, and the tract was described by them as a second paradise. In reality, it lay in the heart of a savage country, hundreds of miles beyond the remotest settlement, between the Upper Colorado and the great desert plains, a region, to this day, almost uninhabited. This wretched mistake was the ruin of the whole enterprise. The association lost its money and its character, and carried many emigrants only to beggary and a miserable death.
In the course of the year, 180 subscribers were obtained, who landed with their families in the autumn upon the coast of Texas, and marched toward their promised lands, with Prince Solms at their head. Finding the whole country a wilderness, and being harassed by the attacks of Indians, on reaching the union of the Comal with the Guadaloupe, they became disheartened, and there Prince Solms, following the good advice of a naturalist of the company, Mr. Lindheimer, encamped, and laid out the present town of Neu-Braunfels.
This settlement, receiving aid from home while it was needed, was a success, in spite of the prince, who appears to have been an amiable fool, aping, among the log cabins, the nonsense of mediæval courts. In the course of a year he was laughed out of the country. He was succeeded by C. Von Meusebach, who proved at least much better adapted to the work. Had he not been reduced to inaction by home routine, and a want of funds, the misery that followed might, perhaps, have been prevented.
In the course of the next year, 1845, more than 2,000 families joined the association. The capital which had been sufficient for its first effort was totally inadequate to an undertaking of this magnitude. These poor people sailed from Germany, in the fall of this year, and were landed in the winter and early spring, on the flat coast of the gulf, to the number of 5,200. Annexation had now taken place, and the war with Mexico was beginning. The country had been stripped of provisions, and of the means of transportation, by the army. Neither food nor shelter had been provided by the association. The consequences may be imagined. The detail is too horrible. The mass remained for months encamped in sand-holes, huts, or tents: the only food procurable was beef. The summer heats bred pestilence.
The world has hardly record of such suffering. Unprovided with food or shelter they perished like sheep. Human nature could not endure it. Human beings became brutes. “Your child is dying.” “What do I care?” Old parents were hurried into the ground before the breath of life had left them. The Americans who saw the stragglers thought a new race of savages was come. Haggard and desperate, they roved inland by twos and threes, beyond all law or religion. Many of the survivors reached the German settlements; many settled as laborers in American towns. With some of them, Meusebach founded another town—Fredericksburg—higher up than Braunfels. He also explored the Fisher grant, and converted the surrounding Indians, from enemies, into good-natured associates.
“It is but justice,” says Mr. Kapp, “to throw the light of truth upon all this misery. The members of the association, although well-meaning, did not understand what they were about to do. They fancied that their
high protection
, alone,
This condemnation seems to fall justly. Such was the unhappy beginning But the wretchedness is already forgotten. Things soon mended. The soil, climate, and other realities found, were genial and good, if not Elysian. Now, after seven years, I do not know a prettier picture of contented prosperity than we witnessed at Neu-Braunfels. A satisfied smile, in fact, beamed on almost every German face we saw in Texas.
Mr. Olmsted visited other German colonies besides Neu-Braunfels. Among these was Castroville, on the Medina, a stream that is “the very ideal of purity, running over a white limestone rock, that gives a peculiar brilliancy to its emerald waters.” We farther quote:
Upon its bank stands Castroville—a village containing a colony of Alsatians, who are proud here to call themselves Germans, but who speak French, or a mixture of French and German. The cottages are scattered prettily, and there are two churches—the whole aspect being as far from Texas as possible. It might sit for the portrait of one of the poorer villages of the upper Rhone valley. Perhaps the most remarkable thing is the hotel, by M. Tarde, a two-story house, with double galleries, and the best inn we saw in the state. How delighted and astonished many a traveler must have been, on arriving from the plains at this first village, to find not only his dreams of white bread, sweetmeats and potatoes realized, but napkins, silver forks, and raddishes, French servants, French neatness, French furniture, delicious French beds, and the
Courrier des Etata Unis
; and more, the lively and entertaining bourgeoise.
Castroville was founded by Mr. Henry Castro, a gentleman of Portuguese origin, still resident in the town, under a colony-contract with the republic, which passed the legislature the 15th of February, 1842. The enterprise seems to have been under the special patronage of the Roman Church. Every colonist was a Catholic, and the first concern was the founding of the church edifice, the corner-stone of which was laid ten days after their arrival, with imposing ceremonies, by Bishop Odin, of Galveston. By the contract with the colonists, each person was to receive a town lot, and a piece of outlying land, as a farm. By the contract with the state, two thousand persons were to be introduced within two years. An extension of two years was granted in January, 1845. Mr. Castro was to receive a quantity of land equal to one half the whole taken by the colonists, to be located in alternate sections, with the state's reserve.
Seven hundred persons came first in seven ships. Assembling at San Antonio, the advance party started, in a body, for the Medina, on the 1st of September, 1844. One board building was carried in carts, and in it were housed the temporary provisions. The settlers built themselves huts of boughs and leaves, then set to work to make adobes for the construction of more permanent dwellings. Besides their bacon and meal, paid hunters provided abundant supplies of game, and within a fortnight a common garden, a church, and civil officers, chosen by ballot, were in being, and the colony was fully inaugurated. After struggling with some difficulties, it is now a decided success. The village itself contains about six hundred inhabitants, and the farms of the neighborhood several hundred more.
Leaving it, we ascended a high hill, and rode for fifteen miles through a more elevated and broken country, whose beauty is greatly increased by frequent groves of live-oak, elm, and hackberry. I have never seen more charming landscapes than some of the openings here presented. In the elements of turf and foliage, and their disposition, no English park-scenery could surpass them. Beyond Castroville, there are two small villages, settlements of German colonists, mostly from the west bank of the Rhine; one, Quihi, upon the Quihi Creek, a branch of the Seco; the other, Dhanis, upon the Seco itself.
We stopped a night at Quihi. It is a scattering village of ten or twelve habitations, one of them a substantial stone farm house, the others very picturesque, high-gabled, thatch roofed, dormer-windowed, whitewashed cottages, usually artistically placed in the shade
The road beyond follows a low ridge which skirts the foot of the mountains, at a distance of two or three miles. The live-oaks become more stunted and rare, and the mesquit begins to predominate. Dhanis, which is distant some twenty-five miles from Castroville, presents, certainly, a most singular spectacle, upon the verge of the great American wilderness. It is like one of the smallest and meanest of European peasant hamlets. There are about twenty cottages and hovels, all built in much the same style, the walls being made of poles and logs placed together vertically, and made tight with clay mortar, the floors of beaten earth, the windows without glass, the roofs built so as to overhang the four sides, and deeply shade them, and covered with thatch of fine brown grass, laid in a peculiar manner, the ridge-line and apexes being ornamented with knots, tufts, crosses or weathercocks. There is an. odd little church, and the people are rigid Catholics, the priest instructing the children. We spent the night at one of the cottages, and, though we slept on the floor, we were delighted with the table, which was spread with venison, wheat-bread, eggs, milk, butter, cheese, and crisp salad.
This was a second colony of Mr. Castro, established in 1846, but he here appears to have done little else than point out the spot and assign the lands to the colonists. During their first year, they told us, they suffered great hardships, the people being all very poor, and having no means of purchasing food except by the proceeds of their labor. Fortunately, there was then a military station in the vicinity, and the quartermaster gave them some employment in collecting forage. They arrived too late to plant corn to advantage, and not having had time to make sufficient fences, the deer eat the most of what did grow. The second year their crop was destroyed by a hail-storm. They lived on game and weeds for the most part during two years. Rattlesnakes were then common about the settlement, and were regularly hunted for as game. In some of the families, where there were many small children whose parents were unable to leave them to labor for wages, they formed a chief article of subsistence. Since their second year they had been remarkably prosperous in all respects. On their arrival here it was believed that the richest of the colonists was not worth twenty dollars; now the average wealth of each was estimated at eight hundred dollars. It consists mainly in cattle. They have been every year somewhat annoyed by Indians. The colonists had enjoyed better health than in Germany, doubtless, because, since their first struggles, they had a better supply of wholesome food. Cows were milked, I observed, at every house, night and morning; and a variety of vegetables was cultivated in their gardens.
The women of the settlement, by the absolute necessity of out-door work, had been rendered, it seemed to us, very coarse and masculine in character. All the ordinary labors of men, such as digging and herding cattle, were performed by them. We saw one of them lasso a wild looking mustang on the prairie, and vaulting on his back, canter away in search of her cows, without saddle or bridle. The condition of the children must be yet, for many years, barbarous and deplorable.
This is the last of the organized colonies of Texas that we had occasion to examine. We were strongly impressed with the actual results of these enterprises. Not one of them could be pronounced a failure, in spite of the most bungling and cruel mismanagement, and the severest reverses in execution. In the hands of men of sound sense and ability, backed by completely adequate capital, there is every reason, from their present condition, to believe that the general plan would have been found not only remunerative to every party concerned, but would have ranked as, in the highest degree, a beneficent acquisition of experience, inaugurating almost a new era for humanity. I am convinced that some similar plan is destined to be adopted for settling, at the least cost, and in the best manner, the vast territorial regions that still are awaiting the pioneer's fences, and that by its instrumentality, emigration may be elevated from a barbarizing scramble, to a civilized and worthy institution. For the trial, Texas yet offers the fairest and most attractive field in the Republic. She is accessible with the greatest ease and the least expense, from the crowded centers of the world, and has every natural quality that can attract population in greater measure than her northern rivals.
At the time of the declaration of Texan independence, March 2, 1836, war was raging on the frontiers of the country: Gen. Houston, the commander-in-chief of the Texan forces, was obliged to retire before the overwhelming Mexican army, under Santa Anna. The Mexicans arrived at Richmond, on the Brazos, on the 11th of April, and the 16th, having crossed the river,
Western view of the San Jacinto Battle Ground.
The Mexicanas, previous to the battle, encamped in a line with the oak trees, which, with their wagons, formed a barricade. On the left, beyond the trees, is seen San Jacinto Bay. In the central part, beyond the trees, is a bayou, where many of the Mexicans were killed. In the direction of the open space, on the right, at the distance of eight or ten miles, is Col. Morgan's residence, at New Washington.
On the afternoon of the 21st of April, 1836, as the Mexicans showed no disposition to move from behind their breastworks, the Texans advanced to attack them. Col. Sherman formed the left wing, Gen. Houston and Col. Burleson, the center, and four companies of infantry, under Col. Millard, sustained the artillery, under Col. Hockley, on the right; the cavalry, under Col. M. B. Lamar, on the extreme right, completed the Texan line. The two armies were now drawn up in complete order. Some accounts state the Mexican force to have been
eighteen hundred men
, while that of the Texans was but
seven hundred.
The Texans, being somewhat masked by the timber, marched along a slight depression or valley in front of the Mexican camp. The decisive moment had now arrived. The
charge
was ordered, and the war cry sounded—
“Remember the Alamo!
” When these words reached the ears of the soldiers, a wild shout went up from the entire army, “The
Alamo!
” “THE
Alamo!
” as they moved forward on the foe. When within about 600 yards the Mexicans opened their fire, and discharged some five rounds before a single shot was returned: but firing too high,
The Texans reserved their fire until they had reached a point some 70 yards from the line, and then some 300 Mexicans fell at the first discharge. Most of the Texans were armed with double barreled guns, and many of them had five or six pistols, with knives and tomahawks. They did not stop to reload, but converted their rifles into war clubs and struck at the heads of their foes. Along the breastwork there was but little firing—it was a desperate struggle, hand to hand. The Texans, when they had broken their rifles at the breech, threw them down and drew their pistols: they fired them once, and having no time to reload, hurled them against the head of their foes, and then, drawing their bowie-knives, literally cut their way through their ranks. The Mexican artillery was taken already loaded and primed, and turned and fired upon the Mexicans as they retreated.
When the Mexicans saw that the dreadful onset of their foe could not be resisted, they either attempted to fly and were stabbed in the back, or fell on their knees to plead for mercy, crying
“Me no Alamo!
”
“Me no Alamo!
” At one time about 400 Mexicans were inclosed by the army; they threw down their arms, knelt, and begged for their lives. The Texans who first arrived were disposed to spare them—stopping to cleanse their rifles; but the main body soon came up, and at once rushed upon them—beating their brains out with their rifles and tomahawks. The officers could not control their men, and when the cries, “Remember the Alamo!” and “Remember Fannin!” were heard, the fury of the Texans was beyond restraint. Many of the Mexicans sought to escape by rushing into the river, but they were fired upon and nearly all of them killed. According to Gen. Houston's report, 630 Mexicans were left dead upon the field; multitudes and perished in the morass and bayous; 280 were wounded, and there were nearly 800 prisoners, among whom was Santa Anna, the commander. Only seven are known to have escaped. The Texan loss was two killed and twenty-three wounded, six of whom afterward died.
The battle ground of San Jacinto is situated about a mile westward of the Lynchburg Hotel, at the steamboat landing, on the opposite or left bank of the River San Jacinto, at its junction with the Buffalo Bayou. The river here is about 200 yards wide, and the ferry across to the hotel is the one by which Santa Anna intended to cross in order to accomplish the feat of
“washing his hands in the Sabine,”
by the first of May, as he gave out that he should do in his expedition against the Texans. The hotel here, kept by Mr. Frazer, is 20 miles from Houston, 15 from Harrisburg, and 50 from Galveston.
After Santa Anna had burnt Harrisburg, just before the battle of San Jacinto, he proceeded on toward the Sabine. Previous to his reaching the San Jacinto ferry, at Lynchburg, he learnt from his spies that the president and his cabinet were at New Washington at Col. Morgan's residence, about ten miles below. He, therefore, left the ferry a mile or two to the left. His cavalry came so suddenly upon this place, that President Burnet, his family and cabinet had barely time to escape. As it was, he captured all Col. Morgan's servants, together with several citizens. The colonel himself was absent, being in command of the fort at Boliver Point, near Galveston. He had several stores at New Washington, in charge of his agents, in which there was a large quantity of provisions beside other merchandise. Finding such superior accommodations at. Col. Morgan's expense, Santa Anna and his men tarried here several days, feasting themselves with the luxuries which the colonel's stores afforded. This diversion, as Santa Anna afterward acknowledged to Col. Morgan, was the cause of the ruin of the Mexicans. Had they crossed the ferry, at Lynchburg, at the time contemplated, Santa Anna would have found friends among the whites and Indians, and probably swept the whole country with fire and sword. While Santa Anna was feasting his army at New Washington, Gen. Houston crossed the Buffalo Bayou, and arranged his troops in battle array across his path to the ferry.
Santa Anna was taken the next day after the battle, about eight miles above the battle ground by Lieut. Sylvester, a volunteer from Cincinnati, who was hunting to obtain venison for his breakfast. Santa Anna had concealed himself in the high grass of the prairie, and on being discovered endeavored to escape, but was“the Napoleon of the South!
”
Soldier's Grave near San Jacinto Battle Ground.
The ground in front, at the eastern extremity of Houston's camp ground, to now used as a Cemetery. The battle field is been in the distance descending on the left. Gen. Houston, on his advance, passed through the small thicket on the extreme left. The thicket on the extreme right, is the place whore Col. Sherman had a skirmish with the enemy before the main battle.
The 21st of April is celebrated annually, on Houston's camp ground, by military companies from Galveston, Houston, and other places: orations are delivered and the day honored somewhat in 4th of July style. Across the bayou from the camp ground is the residence of
Gen. Lorenzo de Zevalla
, who espoused the Texan cause during their struggles for independence. At the time of the battle, the persons friendly to the Mexicans, or
“tories,”
as they were called, assembled on an elevation a short distance east of the Lynchburg Hotel, and from this spot, since called
“Tory Hill,”
the conflict between the contending parties was easily seen. The bodies of the Mexican soldiers were left unburied, and the effluvia from their remains tainted the atmosphere for some time afterward. The hogs, it is said, fed on the bones of the slain. The house of Ex-President Burnet is about one and a half miles from the hotel. The Methodists have commenced holding their camp meetings in the grove on Houston's camp ground, being very convenient of access. Part of the ground is used as a cemetery, and some fifty interments have been made. Seven of the Texans, who were killed or died of their wounds, are interred here side by side. The first of the following inscriptions is in memory of a young man who fell in the battle:
Sacred to the memory of
Benjamin Rice Brigham,
son of Major A. and Eliza S. Brigham, who departed this life April 21, 1836, aged 21 years.
86
In memory of Rev.
Williamson Williams,
of Texas Conference, a native of Virginia, died near Lynchburg, Sept. 18, 1855, in his 33d year. Erected by the Methodist Preachers.
The following list of officers, noncommissioned officers and privates, engaged in the battle of San Jacinto, is from the Texas Almanac for 1859:
Major-General
Sam Houston,
Commander-in-Chief of the Texan forces.
Staff
—John A. Wharton, adjt. gen.; Geo. W. Hockley, insp. gen.; John Forbes, com. gen.; William G. Cooke, asst. insp. gen.; A. Horton, Wm. H. Patton, Jas. Collinsworth, aids-decamp; Jas. H. Perry, R. Eden Handy, R. M. Coleman, vol. aids; Hon. Thos. J. Rusk, secretary of war; Wm. Motley, M.D.
Medical Staff
—Alex. Ewing, surg. 1st regt. artillery, acting surg. gen.; Davidson, surg. 1st regt. vol.; Fitzhuch, asst. surg. 1st regt. vol.; A. Jones, surg. 2d regt. vol.; Booker, surg. 2d regt. vol.; Labadie, surg.
Artillery Corps
—J.C. Neil, lieut. col., wounded on the 20th; J. N. Moreland, capt.; W. Stillwell, 1st lieut.
Privates
—T. O. Harris, John M. Wade, Hugh M. Swift, Wm. A. Park, wounded on the 21st, Thos. Green, Clark M. Harmon, T. J. Robinson, M. Baxter, Thos. Plaster, 2d sergt., Willis Collins, Benj. M'Culloch, Riehardson Scurry, 1st sergt., Jos. White, Thomas N. B. Green, John Ferrill, Jos. Floyd, Alfred Benton, D. T. Dunham, T. C. Edwards, S. B. Bardwell, assisted by the following regulars from the companies of Captains Teal and Turner: Campbell, Millerman, Gainer, Cumberland, of Teal's company; Benson, Clayton, Merwin, Legg, of Turner's company.
Cavalry Corps
—Mirabeau B. Lamar, commander; Henry Carnes, captain; J. R. Cook, 1st lieut., Wm. Harness, 2d lieut.; W. H. Smith, capt.; Lem. Gustine, M.D.; W. Secretts, F. Secretts, A. Allsbury, W. B. Sweeney, Benj. F. Smith, Thos. Robbins, S. C. Tunnage, D. W. Reaves, E. R. Rainwater, J. D. Elliott, J. P. Davis, J. Neil, N. Nixon, G. Deaderick, J. Nash, Isaac W. Benton, Jacob Duncan, J. W. Hill, P. Allsbury, D. McKay, W. J. C. Pierce, W. King, Thos. Blackwell, Goodwin, J. Coker, Elisha Clapp, H. Henderson, Geo. Johnson, J. W. Williamson, Wilson O. Brown, J. Thompson, John Robbins, Wm. F. Young, Jas. Donthalt, John Carpenter, Wm. Taylor, Anthony Foster, Z. Y. Beauford, Spenser Townsend, Jas. Shaw, Wm. D. Redd, Clopper, P. H. Bell, J. W. Robinson.
REGULARS.
Lieut. Col, Henry Millard, commanding; Capt. John M. Allen, acting major.
Company
A—Andrew Briscoe, capt.; Martin K. Snell, 1st lieut.; Robert McCloskey, 2d lieut.; Lyman F. Rounds, 1st sergt.; David G. Nelson, 2d sergt.; Dan. O'Driscoll, 3d sergt.; Chas. A. Ford, 4th sergt.; Richardson, 1st corp.; Harry C. Craig, 2d corp.; Bear, 3d corp.; Flores, musician.
Privates
—Bruff, Bebee, Benton, H. P. Brewster, Cassady, Dutcher, Darrl, Elliott, Flyn, Farley, Grieves, Warner, Henderson, Lang, Larbartare, Limski, Mason, Montgomery, Marsh, Morton, O'Neil, Pierce, Patton, Rheinhart, Kainer, Richardson, Smith, 1st, Smith, 2d, Sullivan, Saunders, Swain, Tindall, 1st, Taylor, Van Winkle, Wilkinson, Webb.
VOLUNTEERS.
Company
B—A. Turner, capt.; W. Millen, 1st lieut.; W. W. Summers, 2d lieut.; Chas. Stewart, Swearinger, sergts.; Robert Moore, Thos. Wilson, and M. Snyder, corp'ls.
Privates
—Bernard, Browning, Bissett, Belden, Colton, Harper, Hogan, Harvey, Johnson, Keeland, Nirlas, Paschal, Phillips, Smith, 1st, Smith, 2d, Callahan, Christie, Clarkson, Dalrymple, Eldridge, Edson, Ludus, Lind, Minuett, Mordorff, Massie, Moore, 2d, Scheston, Sigman, Tyler, Wood, Wardryski.
Company
B—A. R. Romans, capt.; Nicholas Dawson, 2d lieut.; Jas. Wharton, A. Mitchell, S. L. Wheeler, sergeants; A. Taylor, J. D. Egbert, Charles A. Clarke, W. P. Moore, corporals.
Privates
—Angell, G. Brown, Jos. Barstow, J. B. Bradley, B. Coles, J. S. Conn, J. W. T. Dixon, Wm. Dunbar, H. Homan, J. M. Jett, Stev. Jett, A. S. Jordan, S. W. Lamar, Edw. Lewis, J. B. W. M'Farlane, A. M'Stea, H. Miller, W. G. Newman, W. Richardson, D. Tindale, J. Vinater, C. W. Waldron, F. F. Williams, James Wilder, W. S. Walker, James Owenby.
Company
I—W. S. Fisher, capt.; R. W. Carter, 2d lieut.; Jones, sergt.
Privates
—Geo. W. Leek, N. Rudders, J. W. Strode, Jos. Sovereign, W. Sargeant, R. J. L. Reel, Rufus Wright, Jos. McAlister, B. F. Starkley, Day, John Morgan, W. S. Arnot. M. W. Brigham, P. Burt, Tewister, Slack, R. Banks, Jac. Maybee, Graves, B. F. Fry, E. G. Mayrie, M'Neil, J. M. Shreve, W. Pace, Ch. Stibbins, H. Bond, Geo. Fennell, W. Gill, R. Crittenden, Adam Mosier, J. S. Patterson, Jos. Douane, G. W. Mason, Thomas Pratt, E. Knoland, A. H. Miles, Jno. Llewelyn, James Joslyn, Jo. Gillespie, A. J. Harris, D. James.
STAFF OF THE COMMAND.
Nicholas Lynch, adjutant; W. M. Carper, surgeon; John Smith, sergeant major; Pinkey Caldwell, quartermaster.
FIRST REGIMENT TEXAN VOLUNTEERS.
Edward Burleson, colonel; Alex. Somerville, lieut. colonel; Jas. W. Tinsley, adjutant; Cleveland, sergt. major.
Company
A—Wm. Wood, capt.; S. B. Raymond, 2d lieut.; J. C. Allison, Jas. A. Sylvester, O. T. Brown, Nathaniel Peck, sergeants.
Privates
—Irwin Armstrong, W. H. Berryhill, Uriah Blue, Seym Bottsford, Luke W. Bust, James Cumbo, Elijah V. Dale, Abner C. Davis, Jacob Eiler, Simon P. Ford, Garner, G. A. Giddings, Jas. Greenwood, Wm. Griffin, W. C. Hays, T. A. Haskin, Robert Howell, Wm. Lockridge, J. D. Loderback, Edward Miles, Benj. Osborne, J. R. Pinchback, Joseph Rhodes, John W. Rial, Ralph E. Sevey, Manasseh Sevey, Ed. W. Taylor, John Viven, Geo. Waters, Jas. Welsh, Ez. Westgate, Walker Winn.
Company
C—Jesse Billingsly, capt.; Micah Andrews, 1st lieut.; Jas. A. Craft, 2d lieut.; Russel B. Craft, Wm. H. Magill, Campbell Taylor, sergeants.
Privates
—L. S. Cunningham, John Herron, Preston Conly, Jackson Berry, Jefferson Barton, Demry Pace, John W. Bunton, Wm. Criswell, Sam. M'Clelland, Lemuel Blakely, Geo. Self, Thos. Davy, Jacob Standerford, Wayne Barton, Sampson Connell, Calvin Gage, Martin Walker, Gern E. Brown, Log. Vanderveer, Wash. Anderson, Wm. Standerford, Wm. Simmons, Geo. Green, Geo. P. Erath, T. M. Dennis, Jas. R. Pace, John Hobson, Lewis Goodwin, Jos. Garwood, Willis Avery, Jesse Halderman, Chas. Williams, Aaron Burleson, R. M. Cravens, Walker Wilson, Prior Holden, Thos. A. Mays, A. M. H. Smith, Jas. Curtis, V. M. Rain, Robert Hood, Dugald M'Lean, Thos. A. Graves.
Company
D—Mosely Baker, capt.; J. P. Borden, 1st lieut.; John Pettus, 2d lieut.; Jos. Baker, E. C. Pettus, M. A. Bryan, sergeants; Jas. Bell, Jas. Friel, J. L. Hill, corporals.
Privates
—O. D. Anderson, J. B. Alexander, John Beachom, T. H. Bell, S. R. Bostick, P. P. Borden, J. Carter, Samuel Davis, G. W. Davis, J. R. Foster, A. Greenlaw, Fowler, Hugh Frazier, Win. Isbell, R. Kleburg, Mat. Kuykendall, Rob. Moore, Jos. McCrabb, Louis Rorder, V. W. Swearengen, Jos. Vermilion, I. E. Watkins, A. W. Wolsey, W. R. Williams, Ellison York, Patrick Usher, J. S. Menifee, Paul Scarborough, John Flick, J. H. Money, Wepplor, John Marshall, Wm. Bernbeek, Millett, Philip Stroth, Andreas Voyel, Nicholas Peck, Wm. Hawkins, J. Duncan, Geo. Sutherland, Thos. Gay, Joe. Miller, G. W. Gardner, Wm. Mock, S. H. Isbel, Jas. Tarlton, Allen Ingraham; McHenry Winburn, W. R. Jackson, D. D. D. Baker, officers belonging to the regular service.
Company
K—R. J. Calder, capt.; J. Sharper, 1st lieut.; M. A. Bingham, 1st sergt.
Privates
—B. Brigham, J. Conner, F. S. Cooke, T. Cooke, S. Conner, G. J. Johnstone, Granville Mills, Elias Baker, H. Dibble, T. M. Fowler, H. Fields, B. C. Franklin, J. Green, W. C. Hogg, J. Hall, E. B. Halstead, J. W. Hassell, W. Lambert, B. Mims, W. Muir, P. D. M'Neil, C. Malone, J. Plunkett, W. P. Reese, C. K. Reese, J. A. Spicer, H. Stonfer, J. Threndgil, W. P. Scott, R. Crawford, S. B. Mitchell, B. F. Fitch, W. W. Grant, J. S. Edgar, J. Smith, T. D. Owen, W. Hale, A. G. Butts, D. Dedrick, C. Forrister, W. K. Donham.
Company
F—Wm. J. E. Heard, capt.: William Eastland, 1st lieut.; Eli Mercer, Wilson Lightfoot, sergts.; Alfred Kelso, Elijah Mercer, corporals.
Privates
—Rob. M'Laughlin, Leroy Wilkinson, Wm. Lightfoot, Dan. Miller, Jesse Robinson, Josiah Hagans, John M'Crab, Maxwell Steel, John Bigley, Hugh M'Kenzie, Joseph Elinger, John Halliet, J. Robinson, D. Dunham, Wm. Passe, Jas. S. Lester, Phillilla Brading, Christian Winner, Jas. Nelson, John Tumlinson, F. Brockfield, Chas. M. Henry, Jas. Byrd, Nath'l Reid, Andrew Sennatt, P. B. O'Connor, Thos. Ryons, John Lewis, Jos. Highland, Leander Beason, S. T. Foley, Allen Jones, Thos. Adams, Mitchell Putnam, T. M. Hardiman, Chas. Thompson, Wm. Waters.
Company
H—Wm. W. Hill, capt. (sick), commanded by R. Stephenson; H. H. Swisher, 1st lieut. C. Raney, A. R. Stevens, W. H. Miller, sergeants.
Privates
—E. Whitesides, J. S. Stump, J. M. Swisher, Moses Davis, John Lyford, John Tom, Nicholas Crunk, Lewis Clemins, Wm. Hawkins, J. W. Cannon, James Farmer, R. Bowen, A. Lesassiem, W. K. Dallas, M. B. Gray, Jas. Gray, B. Doolittle, John Graham, Jas. M. Hill, J. Ingraham, John Gafford, N. Mitchell, David Korneky, Geo. Petty, James Everett, Prosper Hope, J. Powell, Matthew Dunn, J. D. Jennings, John C. Hunt, Jacob Groce, F. B. Gentry, J. G. Wilkinson, A. Dillard, F. K. Henderson, Uriah Saunders, John Craddick, J. Lawrence, A. Caruthers, Daniel McKay.
SECOND REGIMENT TEXAN VOLUNTEERS.
Sidney Sherman, colonel; Jos. L. Bennett, lieut, col.; Lysander Wells, major; Edw. B. Wood, adjutant; Bennett McNelly, sergeant major.
First Company
—Hayden Arnold, capt.; R. W. Smith, 1st lieut.; Isaac Edwards, 2d lieut.
Privates
—Sam. Leiper, Peter W. Holmes, W. P. Kincannon, Dan. Doubt, John Moss, E. E. Hamilton, David Rusk, W. F. Williams, J. W. McHorse, H. Malena, Alexin, John Harvey, M. G. Whitaker, John Yancy, S. Yarbrough, Thos. G. Box, Nelson Box, G. R. Mercer, Wm. Nabors, Wm. T. Saddler, Jas. Mitchell, Jas. E. Box, Sam. Phillips, John B. Trenay, Levy Perch, Crawf Grigsby, John McCoy, Dickins Parker, Jesse Walling, J. W. Carpenter,
Second Company
—Wm. Ware, capt.; Job S. Collard, 1st lieut.; Geo. A. Lamb, 2d lieut.; Albert Gallitin, Wm. C. Winters, sergeants.
Privates
—J. — Winters, J. W. Winters, C. Edenburg, Lewis Cox, G. W. Robinson, G. W. Lawrence, W. Cartwrighti John Sadler, James Wilson, James Derritt, Matthew Moss, Jesse Thomson.
Third Company
—Wm. M. Logan, capt.; Franklin Harden, 1st lieut.; B. J. Harper, 2d lieut.; E. F. Branch, 1st sergt.
Privates
—John Biddle, J. M. Maxwell, M. Charencan, E. Bulliner, P. Bulliner, J. Sleighston, Patrick Carnel, Wm. M. Smith, David Choat, David Cole, Q. Dykes, David M'Fadden, Thomas Orr, Luke Bryant, W. Kibbe, E. M. Tanner, H. R. Williams, Michael Poveto, Lefray Gedrie, Joseph Farewell, C. W. Thompson, Cornelius Devois, M. J. Brakey, Thomas Belnop, Wm. Duffee, Joseph Ellender, William Smith, Wm. Robertson, W. A. Smyth, Jas. Call.
Fourth Company
—Wm. H. Patton, capt. (before entered as aid to Gen. H.); David Murphy, 1st lieut.; Peter Harper, 2d lieut.; John Smith, Pendleton Rector, A. W. Breedlove, sergeants; G. L. Bledsoe, corporal.
Privates
—Jas. Bradley, J. C. Boyd, Robt. Carr, A. J. Beard, Alex. Bailey, J. J. Childs, St. Clair Patton, Claiborn Rector, Phineas Ripley, Thos. Leveney, J. B. Taylor, L. Willoughby, G. Wright, M. B. Atkison, Holden Denmon, Ed. Daist, R. B. Daist, J. K. Davis, E. Gallaher, Jas. Hall, S. Phillips, Thos. McGay, J. A. Barkley, Francis Walneet, Hinson Curtis, J. B. Grice, Nat. Hager, B. F. Cage, J. M. McCormack, Jas. Haye, Chas. Hick, A. D. Kenyon, G. W. Lewis, J. Pickering, Jas. Harris, Wm. Brennan, Wm. H. Jack, Dr. Baylor, Thos. F. Coney, A. Lewis, W. P. Lane, E. G. Rector.
Thos. H. M—Intire, capt.; John P. Gill, 1st lieut.; Bazil G. Glans, 2d lieut.; Robt. D. Tyler, John Wilkinson, sergts.; E. G. Coffman, corp.
Privates
—Wm. Boyle, Benj. Bencroft, Geo. Barker, Wm. Bennett, John Clarke, J. B. Coliant, J. Campbell, Cooper, T. Davis, Oscar Parish, Thos. Hopkins, Jack Lowrie, Placido M'Curdy, David Oden, G. W. Penticost, S. W. Peebles, Samuel Sharp, Isaac Jacques, John Chevis, 1st, John Chevis, 2d, Thos. Cox, Cyrus Cepton, Ambrose Mayer, Moses Allison, Isaac Maiden, F. Wilkinson.
James Galsaspy, capt.; Wm. Finch, 1st lieut.; A. L. Harrison, 2d lieut.; R. T. Choderick, 1st sergt.
Privates
—John Sayres, F. B. Lasiter, M. K. Gohoen, T. H. Webb, John Peterson, J. Montgomery, T. F. Johnson, Hez. Harris, W. F. Ferrill, Samuel Wyley, Wm. Fertilan, A. Montgomery, A. Lolison, E. M'Millan, S. Daling, J. W. Scolling, J. Richardson, Obanion, Willis L. Ellis, Jas. Walker, Alphonzo Steel, Benj. Johnson, F. M. Woodward, Wm. Peterson, J. C. White, Rob. Henry, Elijah Votan, G. Crosby, Joel Dederick, L. Raney.
B. Bryant, capt.; John C. Hales, 1st lieut.; A. S. Lewis, 2d lieut.
Privates
—Wm. Earle, J. S. P. Irven, Sim. Roberts, Jos. P. Parks, O. Rockwell, R. B. Russell, L. H. White, A. M'Kenzie, A. Cobble, John F. Gilbert, D. Roberts, Wm. B. Scates, J. R. Johnson, Wm. Pate, B. Lindsay, Jas. Clarke, Robt. Love.
Wm. Kimbo, capt.; James Rowe, 1st lieut.; John Harman, William Fisher, Henry Reed, sergeants.
Privates
—D. Brown, Wm. Bateman, J. A. Chaffin, H. Corsine, Joel Crane, R. T. Crane, Joshua Clelens, W. H. Davis, S. Holeman, H. Hill, G. D. Hancock, E. O. Legrand, D. Love, D. H. M'Gary, Thos. Maxwell, A. G. M'Gowan, J. W. Proctor, Benj. Thomas, D. Watson, Lewis Wilworth, R. Stevenson, G. W. Jones, W. B. Rrown, B. Green, J. Kent, Caddell, R. Hotchkiss, Thos. M. Hughes, A. Buffington, Jas. Burch, R. Burch, A. E. Manuel.
Juan N. Seguin, capt.; Manuel Flores, Antonio Menchasen, sergeants; Nep Flores, Ambro Rodridge, corporals.
Privates
—Antonio Cruz, Jose Maria Mocha, Eudnado Samirer, Lucin Ennques, Maticio Curvis, Antonio Cueves, Simon Ancola, Manuel Tarin, Pedro Henern, Thos. Maldonart, Cecario Cormana, Jacinto, Pena, N. Navarro, A. Vareinas, Manuel Avoca.
Buffalo Bayou is perhaps the smallest navigable stream in Texas, but at present it is one of the most important means of communication with the interior. From Galveston Bay to Houston, the ancient capital of Texas, a distance of about 20 miles, this small stream is navigable for steamboats of a large size, although in some places it is not of sufficient width to allow one to turn lengthwise across the stream. The elevated banks which slope
Night Scene on Buffalo Bayou.
Brownsville
, the county seat of Cameron county, is situated on the N. bank of the Rio Grande, about 50 miles by the course of the river from the Gulf of Mexico, and 326 S. from Austin. It is a flourishing place and has considerable commerce with the river towns. It lies opposite Matamoras, in Mexico. Brazos Santiago is the shipping point. The place received its name from Maj. Brown, who was mortally wounded in the defense of the fort here, during the Mexican war, in 1846.
After the terms of annexation were accepted (July 4, 1845), Gen. Taylor was ordered to western Texas. At the head of a considerable force he established his camp at Corpus Christi, then the furthest point west to which the Texan population had extended. In Jan., 1846, he was ordered to march through the uninhabited region between the Nueees and Rio Grande, and take possession of Point Isabel and the points opposite Matamoras and Mier. This was accomplished, some skirmishes ensued, and several being killed soon brought on open and avowed hostilities between the two nations. The following narrative of the battles which ensued, Palo Alto and Resaca de la Palma, is from “Howe's Achievements of Americans,” and is especially valuable from giving the first experience of a soldier in the business of war:
Throwing a garrison into Fort Brown, opposite Matamoras, Gen. Taylor, on the 1st of May, broke up the camp and started with the whole army for Point Isabel, to bring up a large depot of provisions to the fort; we arrived there the succeeding forenoon, and were set to work building intrenchments.
On the 7th, the army set out on its return to Fort Brown, and after proceeding about seven miles, we encamped beside a pond, where the musquitoes were so plenty that we could not sleep. The next morning we resumed our march, calculating to get through if
nothing prevented;
but about noon, the dragoons brought intelligence that the enemy were in force in front. “Now we'll have it, boys!”
Here we got our first view of the enemy. “Look! look! Oh! look at them!” cried several at once. “My stars! what a host!” exclaimed others. We now advanced slowly in order of battle, occasionally halting, until we were within a little over half a mile distant from them. Their appearance was exceedingly grand; directly in front stood their infantry, with here and there an interval of artillery— their bright brass guns reflecting the rays of the sun. On each side, stretching over the prairie, was their cavalry, with a host of sharp-pointed, bright-shining lances, with their pendants of red and blue. Vast masses of infantry, in rear of their front line were moving into different positions for the coming fray, and their field officers were galloping up and down, giving out their respective orders. When all was completed, their army stood perfectly still; their right resting on a dense thicket of chapparal, and their left stretching across the road, and protected at the end by a swamp. Their whole line was about one mile in length; they had eleven field pieces and about six thousand men. It was an awe-inspiring spectacle—those Mexicans on the field of Palo Alto.
Now let us look at our little army. Our regiments, from sickness and other causes, had not over one half of the usual number of men, and here we were on the day of battle in a miserably weak condition. The company to which I belonged, “B,” had only sixteen bayonets. We had nine regiments, and they numbered, officers and all, but a little over twenty-two hundred men; but there was a self-reliance among them that seemed to augur success.
Gen. Taylor, for simple hard fighting, was an excellent officer, but he knew little of tactics, rarely put any military evolution in practice, and had not the confidence of the army like Worth and Scott. In this battle we had two light batteries— Ringgold's and Duncan's—of four pieces each, and two eighteen pound iron guns, under the command of Lieut. Churchill, and the battle was mainly fought with artillery. The eighteen-pounders were on the right of our regiment, which was near the center of our line; I was on the extreme left of the regiment. Churchill's guns were each drawn by two yoke of oxen. A Texan boy drove one of the teams; as we were coming into position his coolness was remarkable, and his talk to his oxen amusing. “Go along, buck!” he said, “if you're killed, you are fat and will make good beef.” When all was ready, both armies stood still for about twenty minutes, each waiting for the other to begin the work of death, and during this time, I did not see a single man of the enemy move; they stood like statues.
We remained quiet with two exceptions; Gen. Taylor, followed by his staff, rode from left to right at a slow pace, with his right leg thrown over like a woman, and as he passed each regiment, he spoke words of encouragement. I know not what he said to the others, but when he came up to where we stood, he looked steadily at us; I suppose, to see what effect the circumstances in which we were placed had upon us, and, as he gazed, he said:
“The bayonet, my hardy cocks! the bayonet is the thing!
” The other occasion was that of Lieut. Blake, of the engineers, who volunteered to gallop along the enemy's line, in front of both armies, and count their guns; and so close did he go that he might have been shot a hundred times. One of the officers of the enemy, doubtless thinking he had some communication to make, rode out to meet him; Blake, however, paid no attention to him, but rode on, and then returned and reported to Taylor.
Thus stood those two belligerent armies, face to face. What were the feelings of those thousands! How many thoughts and fears were crowded into those few moments! Look at our men! a clammy sweat is settled all over faces slightly pale, not from cowardly fear, but from an awful sense of peril combined with a determination not to flinch from
duty.
These are the moments in which true soldiers resign themselves to their fate, and console themselves with the reflection that whatever may befall them they will act with
honor;
these are the moments when the absolute coward suffers more than death—when, if not certain he would be shot in his tracks, he would turn and flee. Fighting is very hard work; the man who has passed through a two hours' fight, has live through a great amount of mental and physical labor. At the end of a battle I always found that I had perspired
As the two armies were facing each other, it was remarkable to see the coolness of our men; there they stood, chewing bits of biscuit, and talking about the Mexicans—some wondering if they would fight; others allowing that they would, and like demons, etc. I kept my eye on the artillery of the enemy, and happened to be looking toward their right-wing when suddenly a white curl of smoke sprang up there from one of their guns, and then I saw the dust fly some distance in front where the ball struck. Instantly another, and thou another rich curl of smoke arose, succeeded by a booming sound, and the shot came crashing toward us. The enemy fired very rapidly, and their balls knocked the dust about us in all directions—some went over our heads, others struck the ground in front and bounded away.
Our batteries now went to work, and poured in upon them a perfect storm of iron; Lieut. Churchill and his men began with, their eighteen-pounders, and when the fixst was fired, it made such a loud report that our men gave a spontaneous shout, which seemed to inspire us with renewed confidence. I could hear every word the lieutenant said to his men. When the first shot was fired, he watched the ball, saying, “Too high, men; try another!”—“too low, men; try again—the third time is the charm!” The third shot was fired, and I saw with my own eyes the dreadful effect of that and the following shots. “That's it, my boys!” shouted Churchill, jumping up about two feet; “you have them now! keep her at that!” and so they did, and every shot tore complete lanes right through the enemy's lines; but they stood it manfully. The full chorus of battle now raged; twenty-three pieces of artillery belched forth their iron hail.
We were ordered to lie down in the grass to avoid the shot; this puzzled the enemy, and they could not bring their guns to bear upon us, making our loss very small. Many were the narrow escapes; one ball came within six inches of my left side. The force of the shot was tremendous; a horse's body was no obstacle at all; a man's leg was a mere pipe stem. I watched the shot as it struck the roots of the grass, and it was astonishing how the dust flew. In about an hour, the grass caught on fire, and the clouds of smoke shut out the opposing armies from view. We had not as yet lost a man from our regiment. In the obscurity, the enemy changed their line, and the eighteen-pounders, supported by our regiment, took a new position on a little rise of ground. As we moved on to the spot, a six-pound shot carried away the lower jaw of Capt. Page, and then took off a man's head on the right, as clean as if with a knife. The blood of poor Page was the first blood I saw; he was knocked down in the grass, and as he endeavored to raise himself, he presented such a ghastly spectacle that a sickly, fainting sensation came over me, and the memory of that sight I shall carry with me to my dying day. A little later, Major Ringgold was mortally wounded at his battery; I saw him just after it. The shot had torn away a portion of the flesh of his thighs: its force was tremendous, cutting off both his pistols at the locks, and also the withers of his horse—a splendid steed which was killed to relieve him of his misery. The enemy tried hard, but without avail, to hit our eighteen-pounders. The battle continued until night put an end to the scene. We bivouacked where we were, and laid on our arms; we slept, however, but little, thinking we might be attacked in our sleep.
The enemy had been very severely handled, owing to the superiority of our artillery. The gunners went into it more like butchers than military men; each stripped off his coat, rolled up his sleeves, and tied his suspenders around his waist; they all wore red flannel shirts, and, therefore, were in uniform. To see them limbering and unlimbering, firing a few shots, then dashing through the smoke, and then to fire again with lightning-like rapidity, partly hid from view by dense clouds of dust and smoke, with their dark-red shirts and naked arms, yelling at every shot they made, reminded me of a band of demons rather than of men.
On the morning of the ninth, the sun rose in splendor. The enemy having retired into the chapparal, we resumed our march toward the fort. On arriving at the position the enemy had occupied the day before, the scene was shocking; here lay a beautiful black“Bueno Americano! Agua, Senor! agua, Senor!
”—Good American! Water, sir! water, sir! We ran and offered him our canteens, and gave him biscuit, for which he appeared grateful.
Our advance guard had been through, and ascertained that the enemy were posted at Resaca. de la Palma, a few miles off. A ravine here crossed the road, and on each side it was skirted with dense chapparal; the ravine was occupied by their artillery. We marched on the narrow road through the chapparal toward their position. The battle commenced with those in advance. The balls began to crash through the woods over our heads, when our regiment deployed to the left and then to the right of the road, and advanced through the chapparal toward the enemy, whom we could not then see. Lieut. Haller called out, “Fourth and Fifth Infantry, charge!” Both regiments responded with a cheer, and rushed on. In a few paces we came to a small pond, and here I had my first chance for a shot at the Mexicans, who were in line on the opposite bank, and were pouring their balls right into our faces. The bushes screened all below their waists. I kneeled down on my right knee, cocked my musket, and brought it to an aim on the mass in front of me, making my first shot at the human family. I fired four shots in this manner, the branches in the meanwhile dropping off and the dust springing up all around me from the shot of my friends across the little water. The word was then given to charge, and we dashed into the water which took me about half-thigh deep; when in the middle, a ball just grazed my right ear, and another struck a lieutenant by me in the right arm. The Mexicans broke and ran, and we continued charging along the pond until we came to where their guns were stationed. Here our troops, of different regiments, got mixed up. The Mexicans fought desperately, and many were slain.
When our infantry closed upon their artillery, some of our men were killed by a shot from Duncan's battery, which remained on the east side of the ravine. The fight was now confined to this central position; their guns on the right and left of it having been taken Here stood Gen. La Vega almost alone, his men having been shot down around him from the combined effects of our infantry on the right and left, and Duncan's battery in front Just at this moment, when the infantry of all the regiments there engaged rushed in upon La Vega's position, Capt. May charged with the dragoons who received the last gun that the enemy fired; but before the dragoons had got up, La Vega was captured with a large number of the officers and men of the enemy. The dragoons charged clear past this point and having received a heavy volley from the enemy's infantry and cavalry who were rallying beyond, May ordered a retreat. As he was returning, La Vega, already a prisoner and held as such by the infantry, judging that May was a superior officer, gave up his sword to him.
After those guns were captured, about thirty of us went in pursuit of the retreating enemy until we came upon an open space of, perhaps, two acres; here we found a large pack of mules and the abandoned tent of Gen. Arista; we stopped a moment, and then continued on the road until we were charged by the lancers. Lieut. Hays sang out, “They are too strong for us, boys!—retreat! retreat!” which we did for a short pace, and then faced the enemy. The lancers came down upon us, when we poured in a volley which sent them back. Lieut. Cochrane, instead of coming on with us, ran behind a small clump of bushes on the opposite side of the road, when a lancer rode up and deliberately lanced him. We reloaded, and on they came again, headed by an officer mounted on a splendid white horse. Some one sang out, “Shoot that man on the white horse!” We poured in another volley, and down went both horse and rider, beside numerous others; among them was the man that had killed Lieut. Cochrane. I went out and picked up his lance; it was covered with the blood of the poor lieutenant. At this moment came up our light artillery and the dragoons, who pursued the enemy to the river where many were drowned in crossing, and thus ended the battle of Resaca de la Palma. Then I never heard such shouting as came from our men; they seemed nearly crazy with joy. I can not describe my feelings when I saw what a victory we had won!
Nacogdoches
is 60 miles W. of the Sabine, and 210 E. from Austin, on an elevated triangular plain, at the head of several small streams which enter the River Angelina. It contains a fine court house, several churches, and
San Augustine
is situated in a rich cotton growing region, on a branch of the Neches River, 27 miles from the Sabine, and 360 from Austin. It was laid off in 1833, and contains a court house, several churches, and about 1,500 inhabitants. It is very healthy, being built on the high rolling lands, and is one of the most beautiful towns in Texas. The University of San Augustine was incorporated in 187.
Port Lavacca
is the capital of Calhoun county. It is on the W. side of Lavacca Bay, about 160 miles S.E. of Austin, and is the principal shipping port of that part of Texas. Population about 600.
Matagorda
, on Matagorda Bay, at the mouth of Colorado River, 250 miles S.E. from Austin, is a place of considerable commerce, being the depot for the produce of the fertile Colorado valley. Population about 600.
There are many towns in Texas beside those mentioned, that have 1,000 inhabitants.
Marshall, Gonzales, Victoria
and
Paris
have each of them over that number, and though neither of them reach 2,000, they are important business centers for their respective districts.
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES, MISCELLANIES, ETC.
Moses Austin
was born in Durham, Connecticut, about the year 1764, and of a highly respectable family. He was well educated, and was bred a merchant, and possessed uncommon energy and enterprise. He engaged in merchandising in Philadelphia, then in Richmond, and later bought lead mines in Wythe county, Va., where he engaged in mining, introduced artisans from England, and established the first shot “and sheet lead manufactory in the United States. In 1799, he removed to the Mine-a-Burton lead mine in Missouri, and there established the business of lead mining in the wilderness, surrounded by savages: his ore was conveyed on horseback to St. Genevieve, 40 miles distant. Until 1817, he conducted a prosperous business, his house became the abode of elegant hospitality, and the wilderness around was made to smile under his enterprise. Then the failure of the Missouri bank so embarrassed his circumstances that he then, at the age of 55 years, voluntarily gave up all his property to his creditors, and with invincible firmness prepared to found an American colony in Texas. In the execution of his plans he had the aid of his son Stephen. He did not live to see them consummated, as he died on the eve of their accomplishment, June 10, 1821, leaving on his death bed the message to his son to carry forward his enterprise.
Gen. Stephen F. Austin
, sometimes called “the
Father
of Texas, was born in Wythe county, Va., in 1793. He began his education at Colchester, Conn., and finished it at Transylvania University, in Kentucky. At the time of his father's death he was 28 years of age. He resolved to accept his father's dying trust, and after much toil and with great address, he succeeded in the enterprise, fixing hisNacogdoches
, and in it was only one family and three unmarried men. The ring of the axe had never been heard on the Brazos and Colorado. The settlers followed in the wake of their young and adventurous leader, with the rifle, the ax, the plow and the seed corn. Soon the green blades of corn waved over the luxuriant virgin fields, and the smoke arose from 300 cabins, and 300 good rifles were ready to follow him to battle for the right.” In 1823–4, Austin's colony was infested by robbers and fugitives from justice from the United States. At first mild measures were tried to put a stop to their depredations. This only emboldened to greater crimes, they adding murder to robbery. At length a band of these desperadoes were attacked and all but one killed, who escaped. The head of one of them was cut off and set on a pole as a warning to like offenders.
David S. Burnet
was born in Newark, New Jersey, April 4, 1789. His father, Dr. William Burnet, was a medical officer during the Revolutionary war, and was also a member of the continental congress. His brother, Maj. Ichabod Burnet, was aid to Maj. Gen. Greene. Judge Burnet was educated at a highly respectable academy in his native town. He had a predilection for the navy, but was persuaded to give it up, and to place himself in a counting house in New York in 1805. Early in 1806, with the consent of his friends, he joined the celebrated expedition under Gen. Miranda, which was organized in New York. Miranda sailed from New York in Feb., 1806, and made the first aggressive demonstration toward the emancipation from Spanish domination at La Villa de Coro, on the Gulf of Venezuela. A landing was effected in front of a battery, and the enemy were forced to retire. Lieut. Burnet commanded in the launch from the frigate, and consequently was one of those who fired the first gun in favor of Spanish American independence.
The expedition was finally abandoned, and most of the survivors of the original party returned to New York. In 1817, Mr. Burnet was a merchant in Natchitoches, La. Being threatened with pulmonary consumption, he was advised by his physician to adopt the Indian life and manner of living; he accordingly went among the Comanches on the Colorado, and remained more than a year, during which time he subsisted on buffalo and other wild meat, without bread or vegetables of any kind, and by this means his health was restored. He afterward removed to Cincinnati, Ohio, where he studied law. In 1826, Mr. Burnet emigrated to Texas. In 1833, he was elected to the convention at San Felipe, for the purpose of obtaining a separate state organization from the Federal Government at Mexico. In 1834, he was appointed by the state government judge of the municipality of Austin, comprehending about one half the population of Texas. When the spirit of war began to be exhibited against the Mexicans, Judge Burnet was in the opposition, and continued quiet on his little farm. But when the news arrived that Santa Anna had assumed dictatorial powers, and abolished the state governments, he took a decided stand in favor of resistance. In 1836, he was elected by the convention that declared independence, president
ad interim
of the incipient republic. He was afterward chosen vice president. Since this period he has lived in retirement on his farm, near and in sight of the battle field of San Jacinto.
Mirabeau B. Lamar
, the third president of Texas, was born in Jefferson county, Georgia, in 1798. His ancestors were French Huguenots, who fled from persecution in their native land, and settled in the southern states. He came to Texas in 1835, to aid the people in their resistance against the arbitrary power of Santa Anna. He opposed all timid counsels, and boldly advocated a declaration of independence, like that of July 4, 1776, and it is stated that his speech, delivered in the town of Washington, was the first open advocacy of that policy. He first distinguished himself as a soldier in the cavalry action previous to the battle of San Jacinto. After this victory he was placed by President Burnet at the head of the war department. He was subsequently elected the first vice president under the
THE FREEBOOTER LAFITTE.
Jean Lafitte
was born in Bordeaux, France, and in youth ran away from home and shipped on board an English man-of-war. Eventually he found his way to South America and the West Indies, and engaged in privateering and smuggling. In 1808, when the United States laid an embargo on foreign commerce, he engaged in illicit trade to New Orleans. About the year 1810 or 1811, the island of Grand Terre, afterward known as
Barrataria
, about 60 miles from the delta of the Mississippi, became a notorious resort of privateers. Among the chieftains there La, fitte became in power almost absolute. He had two brothers in New Orleans, and through them interested many of the principal merchants and traders in that city in his smuggling and privateering schemes, much to the damage of the honest traders there, and to the disgrace of the state and corruption of public morals. In March, 1813, Gov. Claiborne issued a proclamation ordering the Barratarians to disperse; failing in which, be offered a reward of $500 for the head of Lafitte. The latter in turn offered $15,000 for the head of his excellency! Next the governor sent a company of militia to break up Barrataria. Its commander happened to have been one of Lafitte's old captains. Lafitte surrounded them, took them prisoners, and then sent them home loaded with presents.
Early in 1814, President Madison sent Commodore Patterson, of the United States navy, to destroy the establishment:
“Accordingly on the 11th of June, 1814, the commodore left New Orleans, accompanied by Col. Ross and seventy-one picked men of the 44th regiment United States infantry. He took with him the schooner Caroline and the United States gunboats at the Balize. On the morning of the 16th he reached Barrataria. The town consisted of about forty houses, of different sizes, badly constructed, and thatched with palmetto. The vessels of the free-booters consisted of six fine schooners and one felucca, as cruisers, and one armed schooner under Carthagenian colors. The rovers came out to meet the commodore, and formed their vessels into line of battle, having mounted on them twenty pieces of cannon, and exhibiting a force of eight hundred or a thousand men. But when they saw the commodore determined, and still advancing, they abandoned the place and fled, concealing themselves in the numerous morasses of the surrounding country. The commodore returned to New Orleans on the 23d of June, hearing with him the vessels and spoil of Barrataria.
This expedition so crippled the freebooters, that they could only operate afterward with great secrecy. The war between the United States and Great Britain prevented further attempts against them. They were, however, approached by the British in a different manner. On tho 3d of September, 1814, Capt. Lockyer, commander of his majesty's man-of-war Sophia, put in to the shore at Barrataria, and offered Lafitte the rank of post-captain in the British navy, the command of a frigate, and thirty thousand pounds sterling, to join his mnjesty's forces. Lafitte asked two weeks' time to consider the proposal, giving the captain some hope, however, that he would accept it.
The next day, Lafitte inclosed the written propositions to Gov. Claiborne, writing him also a polite letter, tendering his services to the United States, on condition that he and his adherents should be protected from further interruption. The offer was accepted; and Lafitte and his men, stationed at the guns near the
levee
, on 8th of January, 1815, did such service as to call forth a general pardon from the president of the United States.”
Lafitte was unable, from tho vigilance of the United States authorities, to again establish himself at Barrataria. He finally occupied the island of Galveston, as related in the preceding pages, and for years became closely identified with the history of Texas.
Hon. J. Pinckney Henderson
was born in Lincoln Co., North Carolina, March 31, 1808. He received a liberal education, and adopted the law as a profession. He emigrated in 1836. and his first civil office was that of attorney-generalDictionary of Congress.
“Gen. Samuel Houston
was born,” says the Dictionary of Congress “in Rockbridge county, Virginia, March 2, 1793. He lost his father when quite young, and his mother removed with her family to the banks of the Tennessee, at that time the limit of civilization. Here he received but a scanty education; he passed several years among the Cherokee Indians, and in fact, through all his life he seems to have held opinions with Rousseau, and retained a predirection. for life in the wilderness. After having served for a time as clerk to a country trader, and kept a school, in 1813 he enlisted in the army, and served under Gen. Jackson in the war with the Creek Indians. He distinguished himself on several occasions, and at the conclusion of the war he had risen to the rank of lieutenant, but soon resigned his commission and commenced the study of law at Nashville. It was about this time that he began his political life. After holding several minor offices in Tennessee, he was, in 1823, elected to Congress, and continued a member of that body until, in 1827, he became governor of the state of Tennessee. In 1829, before the expiration of his gubernatorial term, he resigned his office, and went to take up his abode among the Cherokees in Arkansas. During his residence among the Indians, he became acquainted with the frauds practiced upon them by the government agents, and undertook a mission to Washington for the purpose of exposing them. In the execution of this project, he met with but little success; he became involved in lawsuits, and returned to his Indian Friends. During a visit to Texas, he was requested to allow his name to be used in the canvass for a convention which was to meet to form a constitution for Texas, prior to its admission into the Mexican union. He consented, and was unanimously elected. The constitution drawn up by the convention was rejected by Santa Anna, at that time
in power, and the disaffection of the Texans caused thereby was still further hightened by a demand upon them to give up their arms. They determined upon a resistance; a militia was organized, and Austin, the founder of the colony, was elected commander-in-chief, in which office he was shortly after succeeded by Gen. Houston. He conducted the war with vigor, and finally brought it to a successful termination by the battle of San Jacinto, which was fought in April, 1836. In May, 1836, he signed a treaty, acknowledging the independence of Texas, and in October of the same year he was inaugurated the first president of the Republic. At the end of his term of office, as the same person could not constitutionally be elected president twice in succession, he became a member of the Texan congress. In 1841, however, he was again elevated to the presidential chair. During the whole time that he held that office it was his favorite policy to effect the annexation of Texas to the United States, but he retired from office before he saw the consummation of his wishes. In 1844, Texas became one of the states of the Union, and Gen. Houston was elected to the senate. He has since been governor of the state.”
Hon. Thomas Jefferson Rusk
“was born in South Carolina; studied law, and practiced with success in Georgia. In the early part of 1835, he removed to Texas, and was a prominent actor in all the important events in the history of the republicpro tem.
, of the senate. In a moment of insanity, caused by overwhelming grief at the death of his wife, he took his own life, aged fifty-four. —
Dictionary of Congress.
Gen. Sidney Sherman
was born in Marlborough, Massachusetts, in 1805. In the midst of a snow storm, December, 1835, he embarked on a steamer at Cincinnati, at the head of a volunteer company of Kentuckians he had raised, to battle for the independence of Texas. He was a colonel at San Jacinto, where he greatly distinguished himself. He there first sounded the war cry—
Remember the Alamo! Goliad and the Alamo!
In 1846, he conceived the idea of rebuilding the town of Harrisburg, which had been destroyed. From thence he built a railroad westward, the first in Texas, and the locomotive the “Gen. Sherman,” was the first that appeared west of the Sabine.
Col. Benj. R. Milam
, “the hero of Bexar,” was born in Kentucky, and bred to the hatter's business in Lexington in that state. In 1826 he was one of the heroic band of three hundred Americans who went to Mexico, and joined the republican standard of Victoria, and in different actions routed three and four times their own number. His military life there was full of vicissitude. After the taking of Goliad, in Sept., 1835, by a mere handful of Texans, Milam thus told the story of his experience there, in a spirited address of five lines. Said he—“I assisted Mexico to gain her independence. I have spent more than twenty years of my life in that country. I have endured heat and cold, hunger and thirst; but the events of this night have fully compensated me for all my losses and all my sufferings”. In less than two months after “old Ben Milam” met a soldier's death at the storming of Bexar.
Col. James Bowie
, the inventor of the
bowie knife
, was a son of Rezin Bowie, and was born in Burke county, Georgia. “Of his parents, it is said they were from Maryland. The father was a man of strong mind and sound judgment. The mother was a pious and excellent lady, and from her it was thought that the children inherited their remarkable energy of character. They had five children, viz: David, James, Rezin P., John J., and Stephen, who were all large, muscular men. In 1802, the family removed to Chatahoula parish, Louisiana. On the 19th of September, 1827, James Bowie was engaged, on a bar of the Mississippi, in a duel with Norris Wright and others—one of the bloodiest renconters of this class on record—in which he was wounded, and two men were killed. Shortly after this he came to Texas, as did also his brother Rezin P. Bowie. James Bowie was about six feet high, of fair complexion, with small blue eyes, not fleshy, but well proportioned; he stood quite erect, and had a rather fierce look; was not quarrelsome, But mild and quiet, even at the moment of action. He was quite sociable, and somewhat disposed to intemperance, but never drunk. He had a wonderful art in winning people to him, and was extremely prodigal of his money. His muscular power was as great as his daring; his brother says he has been known to rope and ride alligators! His great speculation was in purchasing negroes from Lafitte, and smuggling them into Louisiana. This is the most unpleasant feature in his history. He fell at the Alamo.”
Yoakum's Texas.
In south-western Texas, the chief occupation of the rural population is stock-raising. As late as the year 1838, and for years after the prairies of this region were covered with immense herds of wild cattle, the offspring of those belonging to the inhabitants prior to the border wars. Expeditions were, at that period, formed in Texas to hunt up and collect these animals, and when they were exhausted, the
“Cow Boys,”
as they were called, pushed their expeditions to the Rio Grande, and drove off the gentle cattle of the Mexicans. On these forays severe conflicts often took place between the hostile parties, in which the “Cow Boys” were almost sure to be successful.
For a few years after “annexation,” the price of cattle was low; but with the improved means of transportation, prices have gone up, and now immense droves are taken to the north-west and to the eastern market. A writer in the Texas Almanac,
* The Texas Almanac is published annually by W. D. Richardson,& proprietors of the Galveston News. It comprises some 300 pages, and is filled with communications upon the history and resources of Texas. It is one of the most valuable publications of the south, and exerts a fine influence upon the prosperity of the state.
From the natural increase, and the large droves of cattle driven to the west from middle and eastern Texas and the western part of Louisiana, on account of the superior pasturage in this section, stocks have become large and numerous, and many think this part of the country is becoming overstocked. Be that as it may, the number of cattle is very great, and it has become a much more laborious task to attend to a stock of cattle than when they were less numerous.
As the cattle are permitted to range indiscriminately over a large surface of country, thirty, forty, and even fifty miles in extent from north to south and east to west, and cattle from several hundred stocks get mixed together, it is no easy task to hunt up and mark and brand the calves of a large stock; still it is done, and with tolerable accuracy.
The principal brandings take place twice in the year—in the spring and fall. For this purpose the men of each neighborhood form themselves into companies, called, in local phrase, a “crowd,” to the number of ten, twelve, or fifteen men, each man having one, two, or three spare horses, according to circumstances, with pack-horses to carry provisions, blankets, etc., for the “crowd” (company.) Thus provided for a “hunt” of several weeks, they sally forth, each man with lasso at saddle-bow, and armed with an excellent six-shooter and formidable bowie-knife. They traverse a wide extent of country, driving into close herds large numbers of cattle at places most convenient to a pen. They then “cut out” (select from the herd) such cattle as belong to the men who compose the “crowd,” and those for whom they brand; drive them into the pen, and mark, brand, and alter the calves. Persons not acquainted with this mode of managing stock will naturally ask how each man can tell his own calves. This is easily told by observing what cow the calf follows and sucks. But some few calves amongst so large a number of cattle escape the “branding.” These calves, when afterward discovered, if they have ceased to suck their mothers, and can not be identified, are accounted common property, and are divided, pro rata, amongst the stock-owners of the neighborhood.
“Cattle-hunting” is quite a laborious business; and especially is it so in a crowded pen in warm weather: to “rope,” throw down and tie the strong and active calves of six, eight or twelve months old, and often grown cattle; in dry weather in a cloud of dust, and in wet, in mud, sometimes ankle-deep. This is both disagreeable and fatiguing, in addition to which there is considerable risk from vicious cattle, which keeps the hands constantly on the alert to avoid being “hooked.” There is also much exposure to the heat of the noonday sun, and the damp, chilly midnight winds that blow fresh over the extensive prairies. But the proper time to do this is late in the fall, when the men are frequently exposed to cold rains and northers.
But this wild life has also its attractions and exciting pleasures, especially for the young and adventurous; as it is not devoid of risk, and affords to the aspiring mind of youth an opportunity of a display of courage and prowess that is not found in any other department of rural life. The young men that follow this “Cow Boy” life, notwithstanding its hardships and exposures, generally become attached to it. For a camp life, they live well, carrying out with them plenty of coffee and sugar, hard bread (pilot bread), bacon, etc., and when on a “hunt,” never want for fresh meat, as the unbranded yearlings afford a plenty of the most delicious, and are pretty freely used, as they belong to no particular person. Deer, prarie-hens or grouse, and other game being also plenty, they fare sumptuously; at least, so it appears to men blessed with excellent appetites. Whisky is pretty generally excluded, as it is found rather dangerous in companionship with six-shooters.
The stock-raisers of Texas are generally good horsemen; the young men excel, and many of them are not inferior to the best Mexican vacqueros in the management of their fiery steeds. They “rope,” or throw the lasso, also, with great dexterity and precision. This feat of “roping” is sometimes attended with considerable risk.
This “Cow Boy” system is a most excellent school for the formation of material out of which to construct the best and most efficient cavalry in the world. And if splendid horsemanship, indomitable courage, great capacity for endurance, strength, activity, and a ready presence of mind in great danger, be pre-requisites for such a service, the “Cow Boys” combine all within themselves.
Every person in this section of country who has given his attention to stock-raising has become well off by it, and some have made handsome fortunes. All commenced on small beginnings, but are now in comfortable circumstances, and many comparatively rich. Numbers own from 5,000 to 12,000 head of cattle, and some even as high as 20,000.
Gen. James Hamilton
, the son of a favorite aid of Washington, was born in Charleston, S. C., in 1786, was educated to the bar, and served as a major on the Canadian frontier, in the war of 1812. He was for several years mayor of Charleston. He subsequently was chosen member of congress, where he remained until 1829, and became one of its most eminent debaters.
“With Calhoun, McDuffie, and Hayne, he became noted for intense and energetic opposition to the protective system. He was in favor of direct taxation, regarding all indirect processes for raising revenue as frauds upon the people, and as disparaging to the popular intellect as well as popular morals. While in congress Mr. Hamilton acted as second to. John Randolph in his famous duel with Henry Clay, of which affair he wrote a very interesting account. He was also second to Gov. McDuffie, in his duel with Col. Cumming, of Georgia. He served in the same capacity on other occasions of this sort, though he always humanely sought to effect an honorable adjustment of the cause of quarrel. During the contest for the presidency between General Jackson and John Quincy Adams, he was an active partisan of the former. President Jackson, in 1828, offered him the secretaryship of war, which he declined. He was then offered the post of minister to Mexico, with authority to negotiate the annexation of Texas. This also he declined. His refusal of these offices was the result of a previously formed resolution to devote himself exclusively to the service of his native state. He quitted congress to become the governor of South Carolina in 1830, at an interesting and trying period, when the state had resolved upon nullifying the tariff laws of the Federal government. It was a crisis well calculated to test the ability, the courage, and the firmness of the leading nullifiers. They stood almost alone against the rest of the nation; for though in some of the neighboring states there was much sympathy for them and their doctrines, there was no disposition to take part with them in forcible resistance to the national authority. Their position was generally regarded as that of traitors who were meditating a dissolution of the Union. The majority of the nullifiers, however, strenuously denied
that nullification necessarily involved disunion or secession. Mr. Hamilton said to Edward Livingston, on the publication of Jackson's proclamation against the nullifiers, that “South Carolina did not intend to leave the Union unless the Federal Executive
should drive her out by the sword.
” The people of South Carolina, failing to convince congress of the unconstitutionality of a protective tariff, resolved to throw the state upon her reserved and sovereign rights, and to nullify laws which they deemed to be antagonistic to the primary law of the constitution, by interposing the state veto, and forbidding within the limits of South Carolina the execution of the note of congress to which they objected. The veto of the state, they held, might arrest special legislation without subverting the government. They claimed that congress had no power for constructive legislation; that the states were sovereign with respect to all rights that had not been specially conceded to the Federal government; and that there was no tribunal which could decide between them and the Federal government in case of an alleged infraction of the constitution, of which they alone were judges. These questions were maintained by Mr. Hamilton with much zeal and force in a great variety of essays and speeches. On the settlement of this question by Mr. Clay's compromise, Mr. Hamilton retired from public life, and devoted himself to the care of his plantation. In course of time, however, he became ardently interested in the cause of Texas, to which he devoted his personal services and a large portion of his private fortune. In 1841, while Texas was an independent republic, he was her minister to England and France, where he procured the recognition of er independence. On the death of Mr. Calhoun, in 1852, he was appointed his successor in the United States senate, but for domestic reasons he declined the office. He had given himself so entirely to the service of Texas, that in his efforts in her behalf he had expended his fortune and literally ruined himself, becoming greatly involved in pecuniary difficulties, which harassed the latter years of his life. He was on his way to
Texas to seek indemnification for his losses, when he perished by a collision between the steamboats Galveston and Opelousas, in the latter of which he was a passenger, Nov. 15, 1857. WithSouthern Review
, to which he was a frequent and popular contributor.—
American Encyclopœedia.
Col. Ben. M'Cullough
was born in Rutherford county, Tenn., about the year 1814. When a youth he became noted as a hunter. A neighbor of Col. David Crockett, he was persuaded by him to emigrate to Texas, and arrived in time to do excellent service as an artillerist at the battle of San Jacinto. After this, he engaged in the business of land surveyor. “Beside the Comanche war of 1840 he engaged in innumerable battles and skirmishes with Indians and Mexicans After the commencement of the Mexican war, he went into it as a captain of ran gers. His fame, won in that war, is world wide. Gen. Taylor preferred him to all others as a scout, and in that capacity he rendered signal service to the American cause.”
Col. John Coffee Hays
was born in Wilson county, Tenn., in 1818. At 19 year of age he emigrated to San Antonio, Texas, as a surveyor of land on the frontier in which business his constitution became inured to privation and hardship. His military talent early developed itself. In 1840, he was given the command of a company of rangers, and after that was made commander of the frontier. It is said that were an account of the Indian fights, skirmishes and adventures of Col. Hays and his gallant rangers published, it would be a volume of extraordinary interest, as exhibiting the most intrepid bravery, united to fertility of resources and a spirit of enterprise against a wily foe. In the Mexican war, Col. Hays commanded a Texan regiment: subsequently he removed to California, and was elected sheriff of San Francisco.
Col. Martin Parmer
, sometimes called the
“Ring Tailed Panther,”
was one of the extraordinary characters that appeared in Texas at an early day. “His life had been a thrilling romance. He was born in Virginia, in 1775. At twenty years of age he emigrated to Tennessee, where he married Miss Sarah Hardwick. He was engaged for some time in superintending the works of Montgomery Bell, of Dickson county. But his ambition was not satisfied. In 1818, he emigrated to Missouri, and settled fifty miles above the highest county formed in the then territory —surrounded by the Sioux, Iowa, and Osage Indians. He gave fifty dollars for a bear-dog, and by the chase kept such supplies of meat as drew the Indians around him. One of them, called
Two Heart
(from the fact that he had killed a white man, and eaten his heart), came to partake of his bounty, when he spread before him a large quantity of meat, and, standing over him with a drawn knife forced him to eat till it ultimately killed him I Parmer had numerous and fearful fights with the savages, but at last acquired an influence over them, which induce the government at Washington to appoint him an Indian agent. He was elected a colonel of the militia, and then a member of the convention to form a state constitution. It was shortly after taking his seat in this body, that, two of the members getting into a fight, he interfered in behalf of one of the parties, announcing himself as the
‘Ring-tailed Panther,’
by which name he was afterward known in the west. After serving two or three terms in the Missouri legislature, Parmer emigrated to Texas, and settled near the Mound prairie. It is said he fired the first gun in the Fredonian war. Among the numerous stories told of him, it is related, upon good authority, that when his bear-dog died, he sent fifty miles for a clergyman to attend the funeral, which he actually did—supposing it to be one of Col. Parmer's family! His son, from whom the above account is obtained, say he heard the sermon.”
Yoakum's Texas.
Arms of Califonia
Motto
—Eureka—I have found it.
California
is said, by some writers, to signify in English, hot furnace and to be derived from two Spanish words,
caliente fornalla
, or
horno
: but this is doubtful. If true, however it is properly applied, as the sun pours down into the valleys through a dry atmosphere with great power Under the Mexicans, California was in two divisions. Lower California was, as now, the peninsula. Upper or New California comprised all of Mexico north of that point and the Gila River, and east of the Rocky Mountains, containing nearly 400,000 square miles. The greater part of New Mexico, and of Utah, and all of the state of California, comprised the original Upper California.
“California was discovered in 1548 by Cabrillo, a Spanish navigator. In 1758, Sir Francis Drake visited its northern coast, and named the country New Albion. The original settlements in California were mission establishments, founded by Catholic priests for the conversion of the natives. In 1769, the mission of San Diego was founded by Padre Junipero Serra.
The mission establishments were made of adobe, or sun burnt bricks, and contained commodious habitations for the priests, store-houses, offices, mechanic shops, granaries, horse and cattle pens, and apartments for the instrution of Indian youth. Around and attached to each, were, varying in different missions, from a few hundred to several thousand Indians, who generally resided in conical-shaped huts in the vicinity, their place of dwelling being generally called the
rancheria.
Attached to each mission were a few soldiers, for protection against hostilities from the Indians.
The missions extended their possessions from one extreme of the territory to that of the other, and bounded the limits of one mission by that of the next, and so on. Though they did not require so much land for agriculture,
87
All the missions were under the charge of the priests of the order of San Francisco. Each mission was under one of the fathers, who had despotic authority. The general products of the missions were large cattle, sheep, horses, Indian corn, beans and peas. Those in the southern part of California, produced also the grape and olive in abundance. The most lucrative product was the large cattle, their hides and tallow affording an active commerce with foreign vessels, and being, indeed, the main support of the inhabitants of the territory.
From 1800 to 1830, the missions were in the hight of their prosperity. Then, each mission was a little principality, with its hundred thousand acres and its twenty thousand head of cattle. All the Indian population, except the “Gentiles” of the mountains, were the subjects of the padres, cultivating for them their broad lands, and reverencing them with devout faith.
The wealth and power in possession of the missions, excited the jealousy of the Mexican authorities. In 1833, the government commenced a series of decrees, which eventually ruined them. In 1845, the obliteration of the missions was completed by their sale at auction, and otherwise.
Aside from the missions, in California, the inhabitants were nearly all gathered in the
presidios
, or forts, and in the villages, called
‘Los Pueblos.
’ The presidios, or fortresses, were occupied by a few troops under the command of a military prefect or governor. The Padre President, or Bishop, was the supreme civil, military and religious ruler of the province. There were four presidios in California, each of which had under its protection several missions. They were respectively, San Diego, Santa Barbara, Monterey, and San Francisco.
Within four or five leagues of the presidios, were certain farms, called
ranchios
, which were assigned for the use of the garrisons, and as depositories of the cattle and grain which were furnished as taxes from the missions.
Los Pueblos, or towns, grew up near the missions. Their first inhabitants consisted of retired soldiers and attaches of the army, many of whom married Indian women. Of the villages of this description, there were but three, viz: Los Angelos, San Jose, and Branciforte. In later times, the American emigrants established one on the Bay of San Francisco, called Yerba Buena,
i. e.
good herb, which became the nucleus of the flourishing city of San Francisco. Another was established by Capt. Sutter, on the Sacramento, called New Helvetia. The larger pueblos were under the government of an alcalde, or judge, in connection with other municipal officers.
The policy of the Catholic priests, who held absolute sway in California, until 1833, was to discourage emigration. Hence, up to about the year 1840, the villages named comprised all in California, independent of those at the missions; and at that time, the free whites and half-breed inhabitants in California numbered less than six thousand souls. The emigration from the United States first commenced in 1838; this had so increased from year to year, that, in 1846, Col. Fremont had but little difficulty in calling to his aid some five hundred fighting men. Some few resided in the towns, but a majority were upon the Sacramento, where they had immense droves of cattle and horses, and fine farms, in the working of which they were aided by the Indians. They were eminently an enterprising and courageous body of people, as none other at that time would brave the perils of an overland journey across the mountains. In the ensuing hostilities they rendered important services.
At that period, the trade carried on at the different towns was quite extensive, and all kinds of dry goods, groceries and hardware, owing to the heavy duties, ranged about five hundred per cent. above the prices in the United States, Mechanics and ordinary hands received from two to five dollars per day. The commerce was quite extensive, fifteen or twenty vessels not unfrequently being seen in the various ports at the same time. Most of the merchant vessels were from the United States, which arrived in the spring, and engaged in the coasting trade until about the beginning of winter, when they departed with cargoes of hides,
From 1826 to 1846, the date of the conquest of California by the United States, there had been numerous civil revolutions in California; but Mexican authority was generally paramount. Of its conquest we give a brief account.
In July, 1846, at the beginning of the Mexican war, an American naval force, under Commodore Sloat, took Monterey and San Francisco. Sloat then dispatched a party to the mission of St. John, who there found that the American flag had been raised by Fremont. This officer, on his third exploring expedition, had arrived near Monterey in the preceding January, some months prior to the commencement of the war. Learning that Gen. De Castro, the military commandant at that place, intended to drive him from the country, he took a strong position in the mountains with his small party of 62 men, raised the American flag, and prepared for resistance. De Castro relinquished his design, but later prepared an expedition for Sonoma, to expel all the American settlers from the country. Fremont, on learning this, took Sonoma on the 15th of June by surprise, captured Gen. Vallejo and other officers, 9 cannon, 250 muskets, and a quantity of military stores. On the 4th of July, Fremont assembled the American settlers at Sonoma, and by his advice they raised the
revolutionary flag
, and prepared to fight for their independence. A few days later they learned, through the operations of Commodore Sloat, of the existence of war, and the star spangled banner was substituted for the standard of revolt.
Soon after, Fremont united his force of 160 men to the marines of Commodore Stockton, and they sailed to San Diego. From thence they marched up and took Los Angelos, the seat of government. Stockton established a civil government, and proclaimed himself governor. In September, Los Angelos being left with a small garrison, under Capt. Gillespie, was taken by a superior Mexican force led by Gens. Flores and Pico.
In November, the army of Gen. Kearney, having conquered New Mexico, arrived in their overland march across the continent, on the southern borders of California. On the 6th of December, an advance party of 12 dragoons and 30 volunteers had a battle with 160 mounted Mexicans near San Pasqual. The Americans were victorious. Gen. Kearney was twice wounded, Capts. Johnson and Moore, Lieut. Hammond and most, of the other officers, together with nineteen of the men, were either killed or wounded.
On the 29th of December, Kearney took command of five hundred marines, with the land forces, and moved toward Angeles, to co-operate with Col. Fremont in quelling tho revolt, now backed by a Mexican army of six hundred men, under Gens. Flores and Pico. These forces he met and defeated at San Gabriel on the 8th of January. The next day, he again fought and routed them at Mesa. The Mexicans then marched twelve miles past Angeles to Cowenga, where they capitulated to Col. Fremont, who had, after a tedious, wintry march from the north, of four hundred miles, arrived at that place.
On the 16th of January, Com. Stockton commissioned Fremont as governor, the duties of which he had discharged about six weeks, when Gen. Kearney, according to orders received from government, assumed the office and title of governor of California. Com. Shubrick, who was now the naval commander, co-operated with Kearney, whose forces were augmented about the last of January, by the arrival of Col. Cooke with the Mormon battalion, which had marched from Council Bluffs to Santa Fe.
Gen. Kearney, by direction of government, placing Col. Mason in the office of governor, on the 16th of June took his way homeward across the northern part of Calfornia, and from thence crossed the Rocky Mountains through the South Pass.
Before the news of peace was received in California, a new era commenced in the discovery of the gold mines. The peculiar state of affairs brought about by this, with the great rush of population, was such that the people were in a measure compelled to form a constitution of state government. The convention, for this purpose, met at Monterey in 1849, and on the 12th of October, formed the constitution, which was adopted by the people. After much delay, California was admitted into the Union by action of congress, in September, 1850.
The first officers elected under the state constitution were, Peter H. Burnett, governor; John McDougal, lieut. governor; John C. Fremont, Wm. M. Gwin, U. S. senators; Geo. W. Wright, Edward Gilbert, U. S. representatives: Wm. Van Vorhies, secretary of state;
California, one of the Pacific states, is about 750 miles long, with an average breadth of about 200 miles, giving an area of 150,000 square miles. Its southern boundary approximates in latitude to that of Charleston, South Carolina: its northern to that of Boston, Massachusetts. This, with its variation of surface, gives it a diversity of climate, and consequently of productions. Geographically, its position is one of the best in the world, lying on the Pacific fronting Asia.
“California is a country of mountains and valleys. The principal mountains are the Sierra Nevada, i. e. snowy mountains. This sierra is part of the great mountain range, which, under different names, extends from the peninsula of California to Russian America. Rising singly, like pyramids, from heavily timbered plateaux, to the hight of fourteen and seventeen thousand feet above the ocean, these snowy peaks constitute the characterizing feature of the range, and distinguish it from the Rocky Mountains and all others on our part of the continent. The Sierra Nevada is the grandest feature of the scenery of California, and must be well understood before the structure of the country and the character of its different divisions can be comprehended. Stretching along the coast, and at the general distance of one hundred and fifty miles from it, this great mountain wall receives the warm winds, charged with vapor, which sweep across the Pacific Ocean, precipitates their accumulated moisture in fertilizing rains and snows upon its western flank, and leaves cold and dry winds to pass on to the east. The region east of the sierra is comparatively barren and cold, and the climates are distinct. Thus, while in December the eastern side is winter, the ground being covered with snow and the rivers frozen, on the west it is spring, the air being soft, and the grass fresh and green. West of the Sierra Nevada is the inhabitable part of California. North and south, this region extends about ten degrees of latitude, from Oregon to the peninsula of California. East and west it averages, in the middle part, one hundred and fifty, and in the northern part, two hundred miles, giving an area of about 100,000 square miles. Looking westward from the summit, the main feature presented is the long, low, broad valley of the Joaquin and Sacramento Rivers— the two valleys forming one, five hundred miles long and fifty broad, lying along the base of the sierra, and bounded on the west by the low coast range of mountains, which separates it from the sea. Side ranges, parallel to the sierra and the coast, make the structure of the remainder of California, and break it into a surface of valleys and mountains—the valleys a few hundred, and the mountains two or three thousand feet above the sea. These form great masses, and at the north become more elevated, where some peaks, as the Shaste—which rises fourteen thousand feet, nearly to the hight of Mont Blanc—enter the region of perpetual snow. The two rivers, San Joaquin and Sacramento, rising at opposite ends of the same great valley, receive their numerous streams, many of them bold rivers, unite half way, and enter the Bay of San Francisco together.”
Greeley, in his letters written in 1859, gives a clear view of the resources of California. We here copy from them in an abridged form. The first quoted from was written at San Jose.
The state of California may be roughly characterized as two ranges of mountains—a large and a small one—with a great valley between them, and a narrow, irregular counterpart separating the smaller from the Pacific Ocean. If we add to these a small strip of arid, but fertile coast, and a broad sandy desert behind it, lying south-west of California proper, and likely one day to be politically severed from it, we have a sufficiently accurate outline of the topography of the Golden State.
Such a region, stretching from N. lat. 32 deg. 30 min. up to lat. 42 deg., and rising from the Pacific Ocean up to perpetually snow-covered peaks 15,000 feet
The climate of the valleys may be said to be created, as that of the mountains is modified, by the influence of the Pacific Ocean. Sea breezes from the southwest in winter, from the north-west in summer, maintain an equilibrium of temperature amazing to New Englanders. San Francisco—situated on the great bay formed by the passage of the blended waters of the Sacramento and the San Joaquin —the former draining the western slope of the Sierra Nevada from the north, as the latter does from the south—is thus, as it were, in the throat of the bellows through which the damp gales from the Pacific are constantly rushing to cool the parched slopes or warm the snow-clad hights of the interior. I presume there was never a day without a breeze at San Francisco—generally a pretty stiff one. This sea breeze is always damp, often chilly, and rolls up clouds which hide the sun for a part, at least, of most days. Though ice seldom forms, and snow never lies in her streets, San Francisco must be regarded as a cold place by most of her visiters and unacclimated summer denizens. I presume a hot day was never known there, and no night in which a pair of good woolen blankets were not esteemed a shelter and a comfort by all but extremely hot-blooded people. Thick flannels and warm woolen outer garments are worn throughout the year by all who have or can get them. In short, San Francisco is in climate what London would be with her summer rains transformed into stiff and almost constant breezes.
The soil of California is almost uniformly good. The valleys and ravines rejoice in a generous depth of dark vegetable mold, usually mingled with or resting on clay; while the less precipitous hill sides are covered with a light reddish clayey loam of good quality, asking only adequate moisture to render it amply productive. Bring a stream of water almost anywhere, save on the naked granite, and you incite a luxuriant vegetation.
Yet the traveler who first looks down on the valleys and lower hill-sides of California in midsummer is generally disappointed by the all but universal deadness. Some hardy weeds, a little sour, coarse grass along the few still living water courses, some small, far-between gardens and orchards rendered green and thrifty by irrigation, form striking exceptions to the general paralysis of all annual manifestations of vegetable life.
Cattle-growing was the chief employment of the Californians of other days, and cattle-growing, next after mining, is the chief business of the Californians of 1859. There are comparatively few farms yet established, while
ranches
abound on every side. A
corral
, into which to drive his wild herd when use or security is in question, and a field or two in which to pasture his milch cows and working cattle, are often all of the
ranche
that is inclosed; the herd is simply branded with the owner's mark and turned out to range where they will, being looked after occasionally by a mounted
ranchero
, whose horse is trained to dexterity in running among or around them.
Fruit, however, is destined to be the ultimate glory of California. Nowhere else
That California is the richest of all the American states in timber, as well as in minerals, I consider certain, though the forests of Oregon are doubtless stately and vast. Even the Coast Range between San Jose valley and Santa Cruz on the southwest, is covered by magnificent redwood—some of the trees sixteen feet through, and fifty in circumference. In soil, I can not consider her equal to Illinois, Iowa, Kansas, or Minnesota, though the ready markets afforded by her mines to her farms probably render this one of the most inviting states to the enterprising, energetic husbandman. But it must be considered that not half the soil of California can ever be deemed arable; the larger area being covered by mountains, ravines, deserts, etc.
The persistent summer drouth is not an unmixed evil. It is a guaranty against many insects, and against rust, even in the heaviest grain. Grain and hay are got in at far less cost and in much better average condition here than they can be where the summers are not cloudless nor rainless. Weeds are far less persistent and pestilent here than at the east; while the air is so uniformly dry and bracing, and the days so generally tempered by a fresh breeze, that the human frame maintains its elasticity in spite of severe and continued exertion. I was never before in a region where so much could be accomplished to the hand in summer as just here.
Irrigation is exceptional, even here. All the grains are grown here without irrigation; but the small grains are hurried up quite sharply by drouth, and in some instances blighted by it, and at best are doubtless much lighter than they would be with a good, soaking rain early in June; while Indian corn and most roots and vegetables can only in favored localities be grown to perfection without artificial watering. I estimate that, if all the arable land in the state, fertile as it undoubtedly is, were seasonably planted to corn and fairly cultivated, without irrigation, the average yield would fall below ten bushels per acre. Hence every garden throughout the state, save a part of those near the coast and within the immediate influence of the damp sea breeze, must have its stream of water or it comes to nothing, and various devices are employed to procure the needful fluid. Of these I like Artesian wells far best; and they are already numerous, especially in this valley. But ordinary wells, surmounted by windmills which press every casual breeze into the service and are often pumping up a good stream of water while the owner and all hands are asleep, are much more common, and are found to answer very well; while some keep their little gardens in fair condition by simply drawing water, bucket after bucket, in the old, hard way.
In a subsequent letter, written from Marysville, the chief town of northern California, at the junction of the Yuba and Feather Rivers, Mr. Greeley gives a description of what he saw of the agricultural riches of that fertile region. We again quote:
The edifice erected by the public spirit of Marysville for the fairs which are to be held here annually, and at which all northern California is invited to compete for very liberal premiums, is quite spacious and admirably adapted to its purpose; and herein is collected the finest show of fruits and vegetables I ever saw at anything but a state fair. Indian corn not less than twenty feet high; squashes like brass kettles and water-melons of the size of buckets, are but average samples of the wonderful productiveness of the Sacramento and Yuba valleys, while the peaches, plums, pears, grapes, apples, etc., could hardly be surpassed anywhere. The show of animals is not extensive, but is very fine in the departments of horses and horned cattle. The most interesting feature of this show was its young stock —calves and colts scarcely more than a year old, equal in weight and size, while far superior in form and symmetry, to average horses and bulls of ripe maturity. With generous fare and usage, I am confident that steers and heifers two years old in California will equal in size and development those a year older in our northern states, and California colts of three years be fully equal to eastern colts of like blood and breeding a good year older—an immense advantage to the breeder on the Pacific. I am reliably assured that steers a year old, never fed but on wild grass, and never sheltered, have here dressed six hundred pounds of fine beef. Undoubtedly, California is one of the cheapest and best stock growing countries in the world—and will be, after these great, slovenly ranches shall have been broken up into neat, modest farms, and when the cattle shall be fed at least three months in each year on roots, hay and sorghum, or other green fodder.
The valleys of the Yuba and Feather Rivers are exceedingly deep and fertile, and their productiveness in this vicinity almost surpasses belief. I visited this morning, in the suburbs, gardens vineyards, orchards, of rarely equaled fruitfulness. The orchard of Mr. Briggs, for example, covers 160 acres, all in young fruit, probably one half peaches. He has had a squad of thirty or forty men picking and boxing peaches for the last month, yet his fruit by the cartload ripens and rots ungathered. The wagons which convey it to the mines have their regular stations and relays of horses like mail stages, and are thus pulled sixty miles up rough mountain passes, per day, where twenty-five miles would be a heavy day's work for any one team. But lie is not sending to the mines only, but by steamboat to Sacramento and San Francisco as well. His sales last year, I am told, amounted to $90,000; his net income was not less than $40,000. And this was realized mainly from peaches, apricots and nectarines; his apples and pears have barely begun to bear; his cherries will yield their first crop next year. There are of course heavier fruit growers in California than Mr. Briigs, but he may be taken as a fair sample of the class. Their sales will doubtless be made at lower and still lower prices; they are now a little higher than those realized for similar fruit grown in New Jersey; they were once many times higher than now; but, though their prices steadily decrease their incomes do not, because their harvests continued to be augmented by at least twenty five per cent. per annum.
Let me give one other instance of successful fruit growing in another district: Mr. Fallon the mayor of San Jose, has a fine garden, in which are some ten or twelve old pear trees—relics of the Spanish era and of the Jesuit missions. The trees being thrifty but the fruit indifferent, Mr. F. had them pretty thoroughly grafted with the Bartlett variety, and the
second
year thereafter gathered from one tree one thousand pounds of Bartlett pears, which he sold for $200, or twenty cents per pound. The other trees similarly treated bore him six to seven hundred pounds each of that large, delicious fruit, which he sold at the same price. And, every year since, these trees have borne large yields of these capital pears.
Just a word now on grain. California is still a young state, whose industry and enterprise are largely devoted to mining; yet she grows the bread of her half a million well-fed inhabitants on less than a fortieth part of her arable soil, and will this year have some to spare. I am confident her wheat crop of 1859, is over four millions of bushels, and I think it exceeds twenty-five bushels for each acre sown. To-day, its price in San Francisco is below a dollar a bushel, and it is not likely to rise very soon. Though grown, harvested and threshed by the help of labor which costs her farmers from thirty to forty dollars per month, beside board, it is still mainly grown at a profit; and so of a very large breadth of barley, grown
Indian corn is not extensively grown; only the Russian River and one or two other small valleys are generally supposed well adapted to it. And yet, I never saw larger or better corn growing than stands to-day right here on the Yuba—not a few acres merely, but hundreds of acres in a body. I judge that nearly all the intervales throughout the state would produce good corn, if well treated. On the hill-sides, irrigation may be necessary, but not in the valleys. None has been resorted to here, yet the yield of shelled grain will range between 75 and 100 bushels per acre. And this is no solitary instance. Back of Oakland, across the bay from San Francisco, Mr. Hobart, a good farmer from Massachusetts, showed me acres of heavy corn which he planted last May, after the rains had ceased and the dry season fairly set in, since which no hoe nor plow had been put into the field; yet the soil remains light and porous, while there are very few weeds. Not one drop of water has been applied to this farm; yet here are not only corn, but potatoes, beets, etc., with any number of young fruit trees, all green and thriving, by virtue of subsoiling and repeated plowings last spring. The ground (sward) was broken up early in the winter, and cross-plowed whenever weeds showed their heads, until planting time; and this discipline, aided by the drouth, has prevented their starting during the summer. Such thorough preparation for a crop costs something; but, this once made, the crop needs here only to be planted and harvested. Such farming pays.
The fig tree grows in these valleys side by side with the apple; ripe figs are now gathered daily from nearly all the old Mexican gardens. The olive grows finely in southern California, and I believe the orange and lemon as well. But the grape bids fair to become a staple throughout the state. Almost every farmer who feels sure of his foothold on the land he cultivates either has his vineyard already planted, or is preparing to plant one, while most of those who have planted are extending from year to year. I have looked through many of these vineyards, without finding one that is not thrifty—one that, if two years planted, is not now loaded with fruit. The profusion and weight of the clusters is marvelous to the fresh bebolder. I will not attempt to give figures; but it is my deliberate judgment that grapes may be grown here as cheaply as wheat or corn, pound for pound, and that wine will ultimately be made here at a cost per gallon not exceeding that of whisky in Illinois or Ohio. Wine will doubtless constitute a heavy export of California within a very few years. So, I think, will choice timber, should the wages of labor ever fall here so as to approximate our eastern standards.
I can not conclude this survey without alluding once more to the deplorable confusion and uncertainty of land titles which has been and still is the master scourge of this state. The vicious Spanish-Mexican system of granting lands by the mere will of some provincial governor or municipal chief, without limitation as to area or precise delineation of boundaries, here developes and matures its most pernicious fruits. Your title may be ever so good, and yet your farm be taken from under you by a new survey, proving that said title does not cover your tract, or covers it but partially. Hence many refuse or neglect to improve the lands they occupy, lest some title adverse to theirs be established, and they legally ousted or compelled to pay heavily for their own improvements. And, in addition to the genuine Spanish or Mexican grants, which the government and courts must confirm and uphold, there are fictitious and fraudulent grants—some of them only trumped up to be bought off, and often operating to create anarchy and protract litigation between settlers and the real owners. Then there are doubtless squatters who refuse to recognize and respect valid titles, and waste in futile litigation the money that might make the lands they occupy indisputably their own. Were the titles to lands in California to-day as clear as in Ohio or Iowa, nothing could check the impetus with which California would bound forward in a career of unparalleled thrift and growth. It were far better for the state and her people that those titles were wrongly settled than that they should remain as now. I met today an intelligent farmer who has had three different farms in this state, and has lost them successively by adjudications adverse to his title. The present cost of
Should these ever be settled, it will be probably found advisable to legislate for the speedy breaking up and distribution of the great estates now held under good titles by a few individuals. There will never be good common schools on or about these great domains, which will mainly be inhabited by needy and thriftless tenants or dependents of the landlords. An annual tax of a few cents per acre, the proceeds to be devoted to the erection of school houses and the opening of roads through these princely estates, would go far to effect the desired end. But, whether by this or some other means, the beneficent end of making the cultivators of the soil their own landlords must somehow be attained—the sooner the better, so that it be done justly and legally. In the course of several hundred miles' travel through the best settled portions of this state, I remember having seen but two school houses outside of the cities and villages, while the churches are still more uniformly restricted to the centers of population. Whenever the land titles shall have been settled and the arable lands have become legally and fairly the property of their cultivators, all this will be speedily and happily changed.
There are two seasons in California, the dry and the rainy, the latter extending from the 1st of November to the 1st of April. During the rainy season are intervals of fine weather, in which all the plowing and sowing is done.
“The mining interests of California are vast and inexhaustible. The state abounds in mineral wealth, and in great varieties, and there is no knowing to what extent these riches may be developed. The gold region embraces a district of country extending from the Oregon line on the north to Kern River in the south, a distance of nearly five hundred miles in length, and from ten to one hundred and fifty miles in width. Mining is successfully carried on in some twenty-five counties, and not more than one fifth of this gold region is occupied by miners at the present time.” From 1849 to 1860, it was estimated that gold to the value of 600 millions of dollars had been taken out of the mines of California and sent abroad.
“In a few years California will become a vast empire within herself. The people have the use of all the mineral lands without any cost whatever, except the tax on their personal property, but no mining claim is taxed. Every vacant piece of land in the mines is subject to location by any one who may wish to settle on it, and as long as he remains his possessory right is as good a title as he wants. The mineral lands are expressly reserved from sale by act of congress, and the legislation of the state, so far, has been to let them alone, yet recognizing the rules of each mining camp as the law under which the miners hold their different kind of claims.
The pre-emption laws of the United States have been extended to California, and persons settling upon the public land can have the benefit of them. Of the surveyed lands the state is entitled to the sixteenth and thirty-sixth sections of each township, for school purposes. She was granted 500,000 acres by congress for internal improvements, but a provision in her constitution diverts them to educational purposes. Thus California has over 6,000,000 acres out of which to build up her school system.
She has also 5,000,000 of acres of swamp land, donated her by congress. This land is destined to become the most valuable in the state. It is all alluvial and of inexhaustible richness. By an act of the state legislature, any person can locate 640 acres of this at one dollar an acre, by paying one fifth down and the balance in five years. She is thus the absolute owner of over eleven millions of acres, and constituting a basis of prosperity and usefulness of which perhaps no other state can boast.”
The population of California, January 1, 1849, was estimated at 26,000, viz: natives of the country, not including Indians, 13,000; United States Americans, 8,000; and Europeans, 5,000. The whole number of Indians
“There may now be 125,000 voters in the state, certainly not more. Of alien men, there are about 15,000 Frenchmen, 7,000 Spanish Americans, 8,000 Britons and Irishmen, 4,000 Italians, 5,000 Germans, and 6,000 miscellaneous Europeans— 40,000 alien white men in all. We have thus 170,000 white men. There are 50,000 Chinamen,
* “Of all this number of 50,000 Chinamen, by the laws of California, not one is allowed to vote, not one to give evidence in a court of justice, but kept virtually outlawed, and liable to all manner of unlimited abuse, robbery, or personal cruelty, with no possibility of redress, except some European happens to be an eye-witness. If some renegade Celt or Saxon wishes to pluqder a Chinaman, knowing the law and the poor man's defenselessness, he has but to choose a time when none but Chinese eyes are looking on I A hundred Chinese may witness a deed of violence, but their united testimony is worthless and inadmissible against a European or American evil-doer within the limits of the state.”
San Francisco,
the commercial capital of California, is in the same latitude with Lisbon, and also with Richmond, Virginia, and distant on an air line from the latter 2,500 miles. Its latitude is 37° 48′ and longitude 122° 25′ W. from Greenwich. Her trade is immense, being the fourth commercial city in the Union. Her situation is unrivaled, fronting the Pacific at the head of the magnificent Bay of San Francisco, which has no equal for a line of thousands of miles of coast. “The connection of San Francisco with the great interior valley of the state being the only water communication with it, together with its easy communication with Asia, gives it vast commercial advantages. Approaching it from the sea, the coast presents a bold mountainous outline. The bay is entered by a strait running east and west, about a mile broad at its narrowest part, and five miles long from the ocean, when it opens to the north and south, in each direction more than thirty miles. It is divided by straits and projecting points, into three separate bays, the two northern being called San Pablo and Suisun, and the southern, San Francisco. The strait is called the ‘Golden Gate,’ on the same principle that the harbor of Constantinople was called the ‘Golden Horn,’ viz: its advantages for commerce.”
Harbor of San Francisco.
San Francisco, as a town, is of very recent origin: but the immediate vicinity has a history dating back to the year 1776. Then the Mission of San Francisco was founded, which stood two and a half miles south-west of the cove of Yerba Buena; at the same time was erected a presidio and a fort along the margin of the Golden Gate. In 1835, the first habitation was reared on the site of San Francisco, by Capt. W. A. Richardson, who, being appointed harbor master, erected a tent of a ship's foresail, and supported by four redwood posts. His business was to manage two schooners, which brought produce from the various missions and farms to the sea going vessels that came into the cove. In May, 1836, Mr. Jacob Primer Leese arrive in the cove, with the intention of establishing a mercantile business in connection with partners at Monterey. He erected the first frame house, which was 60 by 25 feet, placing it alongside of the tent of Richardson, and on theYerba Buena
, as the place was then called from the wild mint growing on the hills.
A few other houses were soon after built, and the Hudson's Bay Company became interested in the place; their agents and people came to form nearly the entire settlement. Late as 1844, Yerba Buena contained only about a dozen houses. In 1846, this company disposed of their property and removed from the place, when the progress of the Mexican war threw it into American hands, and it then advanced with wonderful rapidity. By the end of April 1848, the era of the gold discovery, the town contained 200 dwellings and 1,000 inhabitants, comprised almost entirely of American and European emigrants.
The church, tavern and printing office are an indispensable adjunct to all American settlements. In January, 1847, appeared the first newspaper, the
California Star
, published by Samuel Brannan, and edited by Dr. E. P. Jones. In the first month of its issue was printed an ordinance, from the alcalde, Mr. Bartlett, changing the name of the place from Yerba Buena to San Francisco.
The first alcalde of San Francisco, under the American flag, was Washington A. Bartlett, a lieutenant of the navy, who, being ordered to his ship, was succeeded on the 22d of February, 1847, by Edwin Bryant. Under Mexican laws an alcalde has entire control of municipal affairs, and administers justice in ordinary matters according to his own ideas of right, without regard to written law. On the Americans taking possession of the country, they temporarily made use of the existing machinery of local government, everywhere appointed alcaldes, and instructed them to dispense justice with a general regard to the Mexican laws and the provincial customs of California.
In December, 1847, occurred the event which was so suddenly to transform California from a wilderness into a great state, and San Francisco from a petty village into a great commercial metropolis—the
discovery of gold.
“Early in 1848, the news spread to the four quarters of the globe, and immediately adventurers from every land came thronging to this new El Dorado. The magnificent harbor of San Francisco made this port the great rendezvous for the arriving vessels, and from this period dates the extraordinary increase and prosperity of the Californian metropolis. In the first four months of the golden age, the quantity of precious dust brought to San Francisco was estimated at $850,000. In February, 1849, the population of the town was about 2,000; in August it was estimated at 5,000. From April 12, 1849, to the 29th of January, 1850, there arrived by sea 39,888 emigrants, of whom 1,421 only were females. In the year ending April 15, 1850, there arrived 62,000 passengers. In the first part of 1850, San Francisco became a city, with a population of 15,000 to 20,000; and in 1860, it had 66,000, together with the largest trade of any city on the Pacific side of the American continent.
The magical effect upon San Francisco of the discovery of gold, is thus described in the Annals of the city:
Early in the spring of this year (1848), occasional intelligence had been received
In the month of May it was computed that at least one hundred and fifty people had left San Francisco, and every day since was adding to their number. Some were occasionally returning from the auriferous quarter; but they had little time to stop and expatiate upon what they had seen. They had hastily come back, as they had hastily gone away at first, leaving their household and business to waste and ruin, now to fasten more properly their houses, and remove goods, family and all, at once to the gold region. Their hurried movements, more even than the words they uttered, excited the curiosity and then the eager desire of others to accompany them. And so it was. Day after day the bay was covered with launches, filled with the inhabitants and their goods, hastening up the Sacramento. This state of matters soon came to a head; and master and man alike hurried to the
placeres
, leaving San Francisco, like a place where the plague reigns, forsaken by its old inhabitants, a melancholy solitude.
On the 29th of May, the “Californian” published a fly-sheet, apologizing for the future non-issue of the paper, until better days came, when they might expect to retain their servants for some amount of remuneration, which at present was impossible, as all, from tho
“subs
” to the
“devil,”
had indignantly rejected every offer, and gone off to the diggings. “The whole country,” said the last editorial of the paper, “from San Francisco to Los Angeles, and from the sea shore to the base of the Sierra Nevada, resounds with the sordid cry of
gold!
GOLD!! GOLD!!!—while the field is left half planted, the house half built, and everything neglected but the manufacture of shovels and pick-axes, and the means of transportation to the spot where one man obtained one hundred and twenty-eight dollars' worth of the
real stuff
in one day's washing, and the average for all concerned is
twenty dollars per diem!
”
Within the first eight weeks after the “diggings” had been fairly known, two hundred and fifty thousand dollars had reached San Francisco in gold dust, and within the next eight weeks, six hundred thousand more. These sums were all to
When subsequently immigrants began to arrive in numerous bands, any amount of labor could be obtained, provided always a most unusually high price was paid for it. Returned diggers, and those who cautiously had never went to the mines, were then also glad enough to work for rates varying from twelve to thirty dollars a day; at which terms capitalists were somewhat afraid to commence any heavy undertaking. The hesitation was only for an instant. Soon all the labor that could possibly be procured, was in ample request at whatever rates were demanded. The population of a great state was suddenly flocking in upon them, and no preparations had hitherto been made for its reception. Building lots had to be surveyed, and streets graded and planked—hills leveled—hollows, lagoons, and the bay itself piled, capped, filled up and planked—lumber, bricks, and all other building materials, provided at most extraordinarily high prices—houses built, finished and furnished—great warehouses and stores erected—wharves run far out into the sea—numberless tuns of goods removed from shipboard, and delivered and shipped anew everywhere—and ten thousand other things had all to be done without a moment's unnecessary delay. Long before these things were completed, the sand hills and barren ground around the town were overspread with a multitude of canvas, blanket and bough-covered tents—the bay was alive with shipping and small craft carrying passengers and goods backward and forward—the unplanked, ungraded, unformed streets (at one time moving heaps of dry sand and dust; at another, miry abysses, whose treacherous depths sucked in horse and dray, and occasionally man himself), were crowded with human beings from every corner of the universe and of every tongue—all excited and busy, plotting, speaking, working, buying and selling
town lots, and beach and water lots, shiploads of every kind of assorted merchandise, the ships themselves, if they could—though that was not often—gold dust in hundred weights, ranches square leagues in extent, with their thousands of cattle—allotments in hundreds of contemplated towns, already prettily designed and laid out—on paper—and, in short, speculating and gambling in every branch of modern commerce, and in many strange things peculiar to the time and place.
And everybody made money, and was suddenly growing rich.
* Johnson, in his “Sights in the Gold Region,” states “Lumber sold as high as $600 per thousand feet. The merest necessaries of life commanded the most extravagant prices. Laundresses received $8 per dozen, and cooks $150 per month; and it was nearly impossible to obtain either. The prices of houses and lots were from $10,000 to $75,000, each. A lot purchased two years ago for a barrel of
aguardiente was sold recently for $18,000. One new three story frame hotel, about forty by sixty feet, cost $180,000, and rented for an interest of more than twenty per cent. per annum; small rooms for gambling purposes renting for $400 per month. Yet, notwithstanding these enormous incomes, speculation so raged that as high as twenty-live per cent. was actually paid for the use of money for
one week.”
The loud voices of the eager seller and as eager buyer—the laugh of reckless joy—the bold accents of successful speculation—the stir and hum of active, hurried labor, as man and brute, horse and bullock, and their guides, struggled and managed through heaps of loose rubbish, over hills of sand, and among deceiving deep mud pools and swamps, filled the amazed newly arrived immigrant with an almost appalling sense of the exuberant life, energy and enterprise of the place. He breathed quick and faintly—his limbs grew weak as water—and his heart sunk within him as he thought of the dreadful conflict, when he approached and mingled among that confused and terrible business battle.
Gambling saloons, glittering like fairy palaces, like them suddenly sprang into existence, studding nearly all sides of the plaza, and every street in its neighborhood. As if intoxicating drinks from the well plenished and splendid bar they each contained were insufficient to gild the scene, music added its loudest, if not
The very thought of that wondrous time is an electric spark that fires into one great flame all our fancies, passions and experiences of the fall of that eventful year, 1849. The world had perhaps never before afforded such a spectacle; and probably nothing of the kind will be witnessed for generations to come. A city of twenty or thirty thousand inhabitants improvised—the people nearly all adult males, strong in person, clever, bold, sanguine, restless and reckless.”
The proceedings of the famous “Vigilance Committee” of San Francisco at the time excited the surprise of the outside world. It was, however, an organization that arose from the necessities of the community: its acts were justified by the great body of the citizens, while its members comprised the first men in business and social standing in the city.
Up to the beginning of 1851, the emigration to California had been immense. Nearly a quarter of a million of men, strangers from various parts of the world, had been suddenly thrown into this new land, and scattered among the newly established towns and over the different mining districts. The institutions of law, in but a forming state, failed to give adequate protection. Among the inhabitants were a large number of criminals and vile men from various countries. The most numerous and daring class of desperadoes were the convicted felons of the English penal colonies, who, having “served their time,” early contrived to sail for California. These “Sydney coves,” as they were called, reaped a rich harvest in California, and for a while it seemed impossible to check their crimes.
Around Clark's Point and vicinity, in San Francisco, was the rendezvous of these villains. “Low drinking and dancing houses, lodging and gambling houses of the same mean class, the constant scenes of lewdness, drunkenness and strife, abounded in the quarter mentioned. The daily and nightly occupants of these vile abodes had every one, more or less, been addicted to crime; and many of them were at all times ready, for the most trifling consideration, to kill a man or fire a town. During the early hours of night, when the Alsatia was in revel, it was dangerous in the highest degree for a single person to venture within its bounds. Even the people hardly dared to enter there; and if they attempted to apprehend some known individuals, it was always in a numerous, strongly-armed company. Seldom, however, were arrests made. The lawless inhabitants of the place united to save their luckless brothers, and generally managed to drive the assailants away. When the different fires took place in San Francisco, bands of plunderers issued from this great haunt of dissipation, to help themselves to whatever money or valuables lay in their way, or which they could possibly secure. With these they retreated to their dens, and defied detection or apprehension. Fire, however, was only one means of attaining their ends. The most daring burglaries were committed, and houses and persons rifled of their valuables. Where resistance was made, the bowie-knife or the revolver settled matters, and left the robber unmolested. Midnight assaults, ending in murder, were common. And not only were these deeds perpetrated under the shade of night; but even in daylight, in the highways and byways of the country, in the streets of the town, in crowded bars, gambling, saloons and lodging houses, crimes of an equally glaring character were of constant occurrence. People at that period generally carried during all hours, and wherever they happened
All this while, the law, whose supposed ‘majesty’ is so awful in other countries, was here only a matter for ridicule. The police were few in number, and poorly as well as irregularly paid. Some of them were in league with the criminals themselves, and assisted these at all times to elude justice. Subsequent confessions of criminals on the eve of execution, implicated a considerable number of people in various high and low departments of the executive. ail was readily accepted in the most serious cases, where the security tendered was absolutely worthless; and where, whenever necessary, both principal and cautioner quietly disappeared. The prisons likewise were small and insecure; and though filled to overflowing, could no longer contain the crowds of apprehended offenders. When these were ultimately brought to trial, seldom could a conviction be obtained. From technical errors on the part of the prosecutors, laws ill understood and worse applied, false swearing of the witnesses for the prisoners, absence often of the chief evidence for the prosecution, dishonesty of jurors, incapacity, weakness, or venality of the judge, and from many other causes, the cases generally broke down and the prisoners ere freed.
Not one criminal had yet been executed.
Yet it was notorious, that, at this period, at least one hundred murders had been committed within the space of a few months; while innumerable were the instances of arson, and of theft, robbery, burglary, and assault with intent to kill. It was evident that the offenders defied and laughed at all the puny efforts of the authorities to control them. The tedious processes of legal tribunals had no terrors for them. As yet everything had been pleasant and safe, and they saw no reason why it should not always be so. San Francisco had just been destroyed, a fifth time, by conflagration. The cities of Stockton and Nevada had likewise shared the same fate. That part of it was the doing of incendiaries no one doubted; and too, no one doubted but that this terrible state of things would continue, and grow worse until a new and very different executive from the legally-constituted one should rise up in vengeance against those pests that worried and preyed upon the vitals of society. It was at this fearful time that the Vigilance Committee was organized.”
Hanging of Whittaker and Mckenzie,
By the San Francisco Vigilance Committee.
This was in June, 1851, at which time the association organized “for the protection of the lives and property of the citizens and residents of the city of San Francisco.”
A little before one o'clock, Mr. S. Brannan came out of the committee rooms, and ascending a mound of sand to the east of the Rassette House, addressed the people. He had been deputed, he said, by the committee, to inform them that the prisoner's case had been fairly tried, that he had been proved guilty, and was condemned to be hanged; and that the sentence would be executed within one hour upon the plaza. He then asked the people if they approved of the action of the committee, when great shouts of
Ay! Ay!
burst forth, mingled with a few cries of
No!
In the interval a clergyman had been sent for, who administered the last consolations of religion to the condemned.
Shortly before two o'clock, the committee issued from the building, bearing the prisoner (who had his arms tightly pinioned) along with them. The committee were all armed, and closely clustered around the culprit to prevent any possible chance of rescue. A procession was formed; and the whole party, followed by the crowd, proceeded to the plaza, to the south end of the adore building, which then stood on the north-west corner. The opposite end of the rope which was already about the neck of the victim was hastily thrown over a projecting beam. Some of the authorities attempted at this stage of affairs to interfere, but their efforts were unavailing. They were civilly desired to stand back, and not delay what was still to be done. The crowd, which numbered upward of a thousand, were perfectly quiescent, or only applauded by look, gesture, and subdued voice the action of the committee. Before the prisoner had reached the building, a score of persons seized the loose end of the rope and ran backward, dragging the wretch along the ground and raising him to the beam. Thus they held him till he was dead. Nor did they let the body go until same hours afterward, new volunteers relieving those who were tired holding the rope. Little noise or confusion took place. Muttered whispers among the spectators guided their movements or betrayed their feelings. The prisoner had not spoken a word, either upon the march or during the rapid preparations for his execution. At the end he was perhaps strung up almost before he was aware of what was so immediately coming. He was a strong-built, healthy man, and his struggles, when hanging, were very violent for a few minutes.”
The next execution which took place was about a month later, that of James Stuart. He was an Englishman, who had been transported to Australia for forgery. On leaving it, he wandered in various parts of the Pacific until he reached California, where he was supposed to have committed more murders and other desperate crimes than any other villain in the country. Before his death he acknowledged the justice of his punishment. He was hung July 11th, from a derrick at the end of Market-street wharf, in the presence of assembled thousands.
One more month rolled round, and the committee again exercised their duties upon the persons of Samuel Whittaker and Robert McKenzie, who were guilty of robbery, murder and arson, and on trial confessed these crimes. The sheriff and his posse with a writ of
habeas corpus
, took these men from the hands of the committee and confined them in jail. The latter, fearful that the rascals would escape through the quibbles of the law, prepared for the rescue.
“About half past two o'clock,” says the Annals of San Francisco, “on the afternoon
88
This was the last time, for years, that the committee took or found occasion to exercise their functions. Henceforward the administration of justice might be safely left in the hands of the usual officials. The city now was pretty well cleansed of crime. The fate of Jenkins, Stuart, Whittaker and McKenzie showed that rogues and roguery, of whatever kind, could no longer expect to find a safe lurking-place in San Francisco. Many of the suspected, and such as were warned off by the committee, had departed, and gone, some to other lands, and some into the mining regions and towns of the interior. Those, however, who still clung to California, found no refuge anywhere in the state. Previously, different cases of lynch law had occurred in the gold districts, but these were solitary instances which had been caused by the atrocity of particular crimes. When, however, the Vigilance Committee of San Francisco had started up, fully organized, and began their great work, Sacramento, Stockton, San Jose, as well as other towns and the more thickly peopled mining quarters, likewise formed their committees of vigilance and safety, and pounced upon all the rascals within their bounds. These associations interchanged information with each other as to the movements of the suspected; and all, with the hundred eyes of an Argus and the hundred arms of a Briareus, watched, pursued, harassed, and finally caught the worst desperadoes of the country. Like Cain, a murderer and wanderer, as most of them were, they bore a mark on the brow, by which they woke known. Some were hanged at various places, some were lashed and branded, but the greater number were simply ordered to leave the country, within a limited time, under penalty of immediate death if found after a stated period within its limits. Justice was no longer blind or leaden-heeled. With the perseverance and speed of a bloodhound, she tracked criminals to their lair, and smote them where they lay. For a long time afterward, the whole of California remained comparatively free from outrages against person and property.
From all the evidence that can be obtained, it is not supposed that a single instance occurred in which a really innocent man suffered the extreme penalty of death. Those who were executed generally confessed their guilt, and admitted the punishment to have been merited.”
San Francisco, in common with all of the American cities in California, has suffered terribly from tremendous conflagrations. The towns when first founded were composed mostly of frail wooden tenements, intermingled with tents, Which in the dry season became like tinder, so that when a fire broke out and got headway it was impossible to arrest it. San Francisco, Sacramento City, Stockton, and other places were several times successively destroyed.gold.
Before midsummer of 1851, San Francisco had been visited by six “great” fires, most of them the work of incendiaries. By them nearly all the old land marks and buildings of Yerba Buena had been obliterated, and the total value of property destroyed amounted to about twenty millions. The most destructive was that of the 4th May, 1851, when, in the short space of ten hours, nearly 2,000 houses were destroyed, many lives, and property to the amount of from ten to twelve millions.
“A considerable number of buildings, which were supposed fire-proof, had been erected in the course of the preceding year, the solid walls of which, it was thought, would afford protection from the indefinite spreading of the flames, when fire should unhappily break out in any particular building. But all calculations and hopes on this subject were mocked and broken. The brick walls that had been so confidently relied upon, crumbled in pieces before the furious flames; the thick iron shutters grew red hot and warped, and only increased the danger and insured final destruction to everything within them. Men went for shelter into these fancied fire-proof brick and iron-bound structures, and when they sought to come forth again, to escape the heated air that was destroying them as by a close fire, they found, O horror! that the metal shutters and doors had expanded by the heat, and could not be opened So, in these huge, sealed furnaces, several perished miserably.bay
was still there, and the
people
were also there; the
placers
of the state were not yet exhausted, and its soil was as fertile and inviting as ever. The frightful calamity, no doubt, would retard the triumphant progress of the city—but only for a time. The citizens of San Francisco were content only to curse and vow vengeance on the incendiaries that kindled the fire, and resolved to be better prepared in future to resist its spreading ravages. After the first short burst of sorrow, the ruined inhabitants, many of whom had been burnt out time after time by the successive fires, began again, like the often persecuted spider with its new web, to create still another town and another fortune.”
The city of San Francisco being at first a city of strangers, the post-office, on the arrival of the monthly steamer from the Atlantic states was the scene of exhibitions of an interesting character from the assembled multitudes that gathered for letters, most from loved ones at home, thousands of miles away.
At a distance they looked like a mob; but, on approaching, one would find that though closely packed together, the people were all in six strings, the head of each being at a delivery window, from whence the lines twisted up and down in all directions, extending along the streets to a great distance, the new comers being at the end of the line. So anxious were many to receive their epistles that they posted themselves in the evening of one day to be early at the window on the morning of the next, standing all night in the mud, often with a heavy rain pouring on their heads. “Hours always elapsed before one's turn came. To save such delay, sometimes people would employ and handsomely pay others to preserve places for them, which they would occupy, in room of their assistants, when they were approaching the loop-holes where the delivery clerks stood. Ten and twenty dollars were often paid for accommodation in this way. Some of these eager applicants had not heard from their far distant homes for many long months, and their
Sacramento City
is the second city in commerce and population in California. It is on the left bank of the Sacramento, a little below the mouth of the American, in the midst of a level and fertile country: distance, by water, 140 miles N.E. of San Francisco. It has great advantages as a center of commerce, being accessible for sailing vessels and steamers of a large size at all seasons: both the Sacramento and its important branch, the Feather River, is navigable for small steamers far above into the interior of the country. It is the natural trading depot for all the great mining region of the north Sacramento valley. The site being low, the city has suffered in its early history by disastrous floods in the rainy season: it is now protected by levees. Population about 30,000.
The site of Sacramento City was originally in possession of Capt. John A. Sutter, a Swiss gentleman, who established himself in the country in 1839, and soon after built “Sutter's Fort,” taking possession of the surrounding country under a Mexican grant, giving to it the name of
New Helvetia.
“From this point he cut a road to the junction of Sacramento and American Rivers, where he established an
embarcadero
(quay, or landing place), on the site of which has since been built the City of Sacramento. Here he remained for several years, his settlement being the head-quarters of the immigrants, who, following his example, poured into the country from the American states.”
Coloma
is about 50 miles N.E. of Sacramento City, on the left bank of the South Fork of American River. It contains some 4,000 inhabitants.
In the winter of 1847–48, Capt. Sutter contracted with Mr. James W. Marshall, an emigrant from New Jersey, to erect a saw mill on the river near the site of Coloma. This accidentally led to the
discovery of gold
, which at once changed the history of California. “Marshall one day in January, having allowed the whole body of water to rush through the tail-race of the mill for the purpose of making some alterations in it, observed, while walking along the banks of the stream early the next morning, numerous glistening particles among the sand and gravel, which had been carried off by the force of the increased body of water. For a while he paid no particular attention to them, but seeing one larger and brighter than the rest, he was induced to examine it, and found it to be a scale of gold. Collecting several, he immediately hurried to Sutter, and began his tale in such a hurried manner, and accompanied it with such extravagant promises of unbounded wealth, that the captain thought him demented, and looked to his rifle for protection; but when Marshall threw his gold upon the table, he was forced into the delightful conviction. They determined to keep the discovery a secret, but were observed while examining the river, and soon had immense armies around them.”
The neighborhood literally overflowed with the busy gold hunters, and
“Well authenticated accounts described many known persons as averaging from one to two hundred dollars a day for a long period. Numerous others were said to be earning from five to eight hundred dollars a day. A piece of four pounds in weight was early found. If, indeed, in many cases, a man with a pick and pan did not easily gather some thirty or forty dollars worth of dust in a single day, he just moved off to some other place which he supposed might be richer. When the miners knew a little better about the business and the mode of turning their labor to the most profitable account, the returns were correspondingly increased. At what were called the ‘dry diggings’ particularly, the yield of gold was enormous. One piece of pure metal was found of thirteen pounds weight. The common instrument at first made use of was a simple butcher's knife; and as everything was valuable in proportion to the demand and supply, butchers' knives suddenly went up to twenty and thirty dollars apiece. But afterward the pick and shovel were employed. The auriferous earth, dug out of ravines and holes in the sides of the mountains, was packed on horses, and carried one, two, or three miles, to the nearest water, to be washed. An average price of this washing dirt was, at this period, so much as four hundred dollars a cart load. In one instance, five loads of such earth sold for seven hundred and fifty-two dollars, which yielded, after washing, sixteen thousand dollars. Cases occurred where men carried the earth in sacks on their backs to the watering places, and collected eight to fifteen hundred dollars in a day, as the proceeds of their labor. Individuals made their five thousand, ten thousand, and fifteen thousand dollars in the space of only a few weeks. One man dug out twelve thousand dollars in six days. Three others obtained eight thousand dollars in a single day. But these, of course, were extreme cases. Still it was undoubtedly true, that a large proportion of the miners were earning such sums as they had never even seen in their lives before, and which, six months earlier, would have appeared a downright fable.
Sutter's Mill.
Where Gold was first discovered.
The story has a shady as well as a bright side, and would be incomplete unless both were shown. There happened to be a ‘sickly season’ in the autumn at the mines; many of the miners sank under fever and diseases of the bowels. A severe kind of labor, to which most had been unaccustomed, a complete change of diet
Washing Gold with the Long Tom.
The implements at first used in the process of gold seeking, were only the common pick and shovel, and a tin pan or wooden bowl. The auriferous earth when dug out was put into the last, and water being mixed with it, the contents were violently stirred. A peculiar shake of the hand or wrist, best understood and learned by practice, threw occasionally over the edge of the pan or bowl the muddy water and earthy particles, while the metal, being heavier, sunk to the bottom. Repeated washings of this nature, assisted by breaking the hard pieces of earth with the hand or a trowel, soon extricated the gold from its covering and carried away all the dirt. But if even these simple implements were not to be had, a sailor's or butcher's knife, or even a sharpened hard-pointed stick could pick out the larger specimens—the
pepitas, chunks
, or
nuggets
, of different miners— while the finer scales of gold could be washed from the covering earth in Indian willow-woven baskets, clay cups, old hats, or any rude apology for a dish; or the dried sand could be exposed on canvas to the wind, or diligently blown by the breath, until nothing was left but the particles of pure gold that were too heavy to be carried away by these operations. Afterward the rocker or cradle and Long Tom were introduced, which required several hands to feed, and work them; and the returns by which were correspondingly great. Every machine, however, was worked on the same principle, by rocking or washing, of separating by the mechanical means of
gravitation
, the
heavier
particles—the
gold
from stones, and the lighter ones of earth.
Provisions and necessaries, as might have been expected, soon rose in price enormously. At first the rise was moderate indeed, four hundred
per cent
for flour, five hundred for beef cattle, while other things were in proportion. But these were trifles. The time soon came when eggs were sold at one, two, and three dollars apiece; inferior sugar, tea, and coffee, at four dollars a pound in small quantities, or three or four hundred dollars a barrel; medicines—say, for laudanum, a dollar a drop (actually forty dollars were paid for a dose of that quantity), and ten dollars a pill or purge, without advice, or with it, from thirty, up, aye, to one hundred dollars. Spirits were sold at various prices, from ten to forty dollars a quart; and wines at about as much per bottle.”
Among the modes of mining early adopted was one termed “cayoteing,” or drifting. The word is derived from
cayote
, the name applied to the prairie wolf, and as used, means burrowing, after the manner of that animal. Cayoeting was only necessary in those cases where the gold by its superior weight had sunk through the surface earth, until it had reached the layer of clay on the bed rock, often many fathoms from the top. Having reached by a shaft the “hard pan,” the miner then ran passages horizontally in search of the gold, taking care to prop up the roofs of these passages. Often, however, these have slowly yielded under the immense masses above, and buried the gold hunter beyond all human resurrection. Cayoteing has been superseded by tunneling. Tunnels are run into the sides of mountains, following the uneven surface of the bed rock. Some of these are a quarter of a mile or more in length and involve an immense labor and expense. From them the “pay dirt” is carried out of the mine in carts drawn by mules over railroads.
The old mining localities of California, the flats and bars of rivers, are now pretty much exhausted, and there is very little of the old modes of mining followed, excepting by the Chinese, who, content with small earnings, take up the abandoned claims. Tunneling, quarts, sluice, and hydraulic mining are now the means by which the larger part of the gold is obtained. Through the improvements in machinery and contrivances for saving the gold, the yield is constantly augmenting, and as the gold region of California comprises a tract about as large as all New England, it is presumed that the state for 100 years to come will continue to yield at least as much as since the first discovery—viz: fifty millions per annum.
The most efficient mode of operation is
hydraulic mining.
A heavy current of water is poured from a hose and pipe, precisely on the principle of a fire engine, upon a side hill. For instance, “at North San Juan, near the middle fork of the Yuba, streams at least three inches in diameter, and probably containing twenty measured inches of water, are directed against the remaining half of a high hill, which they strike with such force that bowlders of the size of cannon balls are started from their beds and hurled five to ten feet in the air. By this process, one man will wash away a bank of earth like a haystack sooner than a hundred men could do it by old-fashioned sluicing. Earth yielding a bare cent's worth to the pan may be profitably washed by this process, paying a reasonable price for the water. As much as $100 per day is profitably paid for the water thrown through one pipe. The stream thus thrown will knock a man as lifeless as though it were a grape-shot. As the bank, over a hundred feet high, is undermined by this battery, it frequently caves from the top downward, reaching and burying the careless operator. Very long sluices—as long as may be—conduct the discharged water away; and it is no matter how thick with earth the water may run, provided the sluice be long enough. It is of course so arranged as to present riffles, crevices, etc., to arrest the gold at first borne along by the turbid flood. There are companies operating by this method whose gross receipts from a single sluice have reached a thousand dollars per day.”
“In California the whole art of placer-mining was revolutionized by this hydraulic process, and the production of gold received a fresh and lasting impulse. Square miles of surface on the hills, rich in gold, which have lain untouched, now yield up their treasure to the hydraulic miner. In that region, where labor can scarcely be obtained, and is so costly, water becomes the great substitute for it, and, as we have seen, is more effective and economical in its action that the labor
Hydraulic Mining.
It is stated that at the close of the year 1858 there were 5,726 miles of artificial water-courses for mining purposes in the state of California, constructed at a cost of over 13 millions of dollars. This estimate is exclusive of several hundred miles of new canals in course of construction, and of the many subordinate branches of the canals, the aggregate length of which is estimated at over one thousand miles. Most of the canals have been constructed by individuals, or small companies of from three to ten persons, but the works compare in their magnitude and cost with the most important public works.
A vast deal of this canaling is over the most wild, rocky, and precipitous country; jumping over awful chasms, and plunging down fearful abysses; trestle work, story piled upon story, and wooden fluming zigzagged at every angle (rough as yet, truly, but with strength adequate to its purpose), may be seen winding for miles and miles its tortuous course, leading mountain streams far away from their native channels, and giving to the driest diggings water superabundant. The waterfall at the end is generally very great, and it is turned to curious account.
Next to the hydraulic process of hose-washing, the most important application of water in placer mining is in
sluicing.
The sluice is a long channel or raceway, cut either in the surface of the bed rock or made of boards. The former is known as the
ground-sluice
, and the latter as the
board-sluice.
The ground-sluice is cut in the softened surface or outcrop of the bed-rocks, which are generally of slate, presenting upturned edges like the leaves of a book. In the softened mica slate this resemblance is very great, and the surface is highly favorable to the retention of particles of gold. It is easily cleaned up, as one or two inches in depth of the surface may usually be scraped off with the shovel. The board-sluice is generally twelve or fifteen inches in width, and from eight to ten inches deep, and is made in convenient lengths, so that one can be added to another, until a length of two or three hundred feet or more is obtained. False bottoms of boards are often used to facilitate the retention of the gold, while the stones and gravel are swept away by the rapid flow of the water. Long bars or
rifflers
are generally preferred to cross cleats or holes. The fall or rate of descent of the bottom of the sluice is varied according to circumstances, being arranged to suit the size of the gold and the nature of the drift. One or two feet in a rod, or one foot in twelve, is a common inclination, and with a good supply of water will cause stones several inches in diameter to roll from one end of the sluice to the other. The earth, stones and gold as they enter these sluices with the water, are all mingled together, but the current soon effects a separation; the lighter portions are swept on in advance, and the gold remains behind, moving slowly forward on the bottom until it drops down between the cleats or bars. The larger stones and coarse gravel are swept on by
Fermont's Ranche.
Quartz mining is the reduction to powder of the vein stone, which contains the gold, which is extracted from the powder by means of water, quicksilver, etc. There are so many practical difficulties in the way that it is very rarely attended with success, as the expenses eat up the profits, the gold not usually averaging more than one cent in a pound of rock. The quartz works at Allison's Ranche, in Grass Valley, and those at Fremont's Ranche, in Bear Valley, are worked to great profit. Col. Fremont's mines produce gold to the value of several hundred thousand dollars per annum, though at an immense outlay for mills, waterworks, etc. His great mine, it is supposed, contains 10 millions of dollars worth of gold above the water level of the Merced, from near which it rises up a pyramid of gold-bearing quartz, inclosed in a mountain of slate.
Marysville
, the chief town of northern California, is located at the junction of the Yuba and Feather Rivers, just above their union with the Sacramento, about 40 miles north of Sacramento City. It is a well built town, principally of brick, and at the head of navigation in the direction of the northern mines. The country around it is of great fertility, and the town itself rapidly growing. Population about 16,000.
In the vicinity of Marysville, and easterly, toward the slopes of the Sierra Nevada, are the important mining towns of
Nevada, Grass Valley, Auburn, Placerville, Diamond, Mera Springs.
North of it, near the north line of the state, are the little thriving towns of
Shasta City
and
Yreka
, the former deriving its name from Mount Shasta, in its vicinity, at the head of Sacramento valley, the highest mountain in California, a vast cone of snow rising to the hight of 15,000 feet into the blue above.
Stockton
disputes with Marysville the reputation of being the third city in importance in the state: and is the depot for the southern mines. It is situated on a bayou of San Joaquin, at the head of regular steamboat navigation, and is 48 miles south of Sacramento City, and by water 125 miles east of San Francisco. The channel is navigable for steamboats and vessels of
Sonora
, the most important mining town in the southern mines, lies 130 miles east of San Francisco, and about 60 east of Stockton, and contains some 4,000 inhabitants. North-westerly from it are the mining towns of
Mokelumne Hill, Columbia
, and
Murpheys.
At the former is a noted mining canal of 40 miles in length. Within 15 miles of the latter, 86 from Stockton, and 213 from San Francisco, is the famous “Mammoth Tree Grove.” A late visitor gives this description:
The “Big Tree Grove” occupies a space of about fifty acres, other evergreen trees being interspersed among them. The ground is “claimed” by the owners of the hotel, to whom it will prove a pretty fortune. It occupies a level plateau in the Sierra Mountains, and is elevated 4,500 feet above tide water. The mammoth trees are of a species unknown except in California.
The bark is very porous, so that it is used for pincushions. It is on some of the trees nearly two feet thick! The foliage is of a deep green, like that of the arbor vitæ, and the seeds are contained in a small cone. The wood is of a red color, like the cedar, and somewhat like the redwood of California. Still the tree differs from all these essentially. It is estimated by calculations based on the rings or layers which indicate the annual growth, that the largest of these trees are more than
three thousand
years old! A correspondent of the London Times made one, of the wood and bark of which he had a specimen, six thousand four hundred and eight years old. They are no doubt “the oldest inhabitants” of the state. A path has been made through the grove, leading by the most notable specimens, and each has been named, and has a label of wood or tin attached, on which is inscribed its name and size. In several cases, beautiful white marble tablets, with raised letters, have been let into the bark. There are, in all,
ninety four
of these monster trees, with multitudes of others from a foot high and upward.
Near the house is the stump of a tree that was felled in 1853 by the vandals. The stump is seven feet high, and measures in
diameter
, at the top,
thirty feet.
I paced it, and counted thirty paces across it. A canvas house has been erected over and around it, and a floor laid on the same level adjoining, and here dances are often had upon the stump, whose top has been smoothed for the purpose. Four quadrilles have been performed at once upon it, and the Alleghanians once gave a concert to about fifty persons here, performers and audience all occupying the stump. A portion of the trunk lies on the ground, divested of bark, and steps, twenty-six in number, have been erected, as nearly perpendicular as possible, by which visitors ascend its side as it lies upon the ground. The vandals had a hard job when they cut down this giant. It was accomplished by boring a series of holes with a large auger to the center and completely round it, the holes being of course fifteen feet deep each. Five men worked steadily for 25 days; and then so plumb was the tree that it would not fall. After trying various means to topple it over, at length they cut a large tree near it so that it should fall against it, but still it stood. A second attempt with another tree was successful, and it was forced over, and fell with a crash which made everything tremble, and which reverberated far and near through the mountains and forests. The solid trunk snapped in several places like a pipe-stem. The top of the stump is as large as the space
lengthwise
between the walls of two parlors, with folding doors, of fifteen feet each. Imagine the side walls spread apart to double their width, and then the stump would fill all the space! But at the roots, seven feet lower, it is much larger.
“Hercules” is the largest perfect standing tree, and it has been computed to contain seven hundred and twenty-five thousand feet of lumber, or enough to load a large clipper ship. It leans remarkably toward one side, so that the top is from
Mammoth Tree Grove, in the Valley of the Calaveras.
The trees are evergreens and ninety-four of them are yet standing, many of which rise to more than 300 feet in hight. One, which has blown down, measured 110 feet in circumference, and was 450 high. Another, which had fallen and is hollow, is ridden through on horseback for 75 feet. Some of them are estimated to be more than 3,000 years old. The bark is nearly two feet thick, and being porous is used for pincushions.
“The Husband and Wife” seem very affectionate, leaning toward each other so that their tops touch. They are two hundred and fifty feet high, and sixty each in circumference. “The Family Group” consists of two very large trees, the father and mother, with a family of
grown-up
children, twenty-four in number, around them, all large enough to be of age and to speak for themselves! The father blew down many years ago, having become feeble from old age. The trunk is hollow as it lies upon the ground, and would accommodate half a regiment with quarters.
“The Horseback Ride” is an old hollow tree fallen and broken in two. I rode through the trunk a distance of 75 feet on horseback, with a good sized horse, as did my wife also. “Uncle Tom's Cabin” is hollow for some distance above the base, and 25 persons can seat themselves in the space.
“The Mother of the Forest” is 90 feet round, and 328 feet high. To the hight of 116 feet the bark has been taken off by some speculators, who carried it in sections to Paris, for exhibition. The staging on which they worked is still standing around the trunk. But so immense was the size indicated, that the Parisians would not believe it was all from one tree, and charged the exhibitor with Yankee trickery, and branded the whole thing a humbug, and as the result he lost considerable money in his speculation. The tree is now dead.
In one place we saw a small part of the trunk of what was an enormous tree, which had fallen probably centuries ago, and become imbedded in the earth, and so long ago did this happen, that three very large trees had grown up over its butt so as to inclose it with their roots completely. It was ludicrous to see as we did in one place, near one of the largest trees, a little one, about two feet high, growing from the seed of the large one, and evidently starting with high hopes and youthful ambition in the race of life. What a job, thought I, has that little fellow before him to work himself up 300 or 400 feet to reach the altitude of his father and uncles and aunts. But we bid him God speed, and I doubt not, if he perseveres, he will one day stand as proudly erect as his ancestors, and three thousand years hence he will be an object of as great curiosity and reverence to those who shall come after us as “Hercules” is now to us! What will be the condition and population of California and of the United States then?
But, seriously, I think I never was inspired with greater awe by an object on which I looked, than I felt when I walked about among these noble and ancient “sons of the forest,” or rather patriarchs of the wood. To think that I stood beside and looked up toward the towering heads of trees that were standing, or at least had begun their growth, when Solomon's Temple was commenced; that were more than a thousand years old when the Savior of men trod the soil of Palestine; were ancients at the period of the Crusades! One sees in Europe old castles, and looks with reverence upon them as he thinks of their hoary antiquity, but these trees were between one thousand and two thousand years old when the foundations of the oldest building now standing in Europe were laid. I can think of but one thing more awe inspiring, and that is the group of Egyptian pyramids.
One must actually look upon these objects, however, to realize the impression they make. He must study their proportions, calculate their altitude, compare them with other large trees or lofty objects, and he must do this repeatedly before he can take in the idea. It is a universal remark of visitors that the conception of the reality grows upon them every time they examine them, and that, at first sight, as in the case of Niagara Falls, there is a feeling of disappointment.
Seeds have been sent to Europe, and scattered over our Union, and trees are growing from them in some parts of the United States, but it is doubtful whether in any other soil or climate than that of California, they will ever make such a growth as is seen here.
One thing is remarkable about these trees, viz: that although of such an immense age, many of them, yet where they have been unmolested by man and unscathed by fire, they still seem sound to the core and vigorous, the foliage is bright and constantly growing, and one can not see why they may not live one thousand or two thousand years more. The spot where they stand is beautiful. “We enter a dell,” says Dr. Bushnell, “quietly lapped in the mountains, where the majestic vegetable minarets are crowded, as in some city of pilgrimage, there to look up, for the first time, in silent awe of the mere life principle.” There is another grove as remarkable in Mariposa county, and smaller collections of the same species elsewhere, but they are not common all over the state.
Dr. Bushnell's theory of the enormous growths of California, is that the secret lies in these things—“First, a soil too deep and rich for any growth to measure it; second, a natural under-supply of water or artificial irrigation; next, the settings of fruit are limited. And then, as no time is lost in cloudings and rain, and the sun drives on his work unimpeded, month by month, the growth is pushed to its utmost limit. But these [enormous occasional specimens] are freaks or extravagances of nature—only such as can be equaled nowhere else. The big trees depend, in part, on these same contingencies, and partly on the remarkable longevity of their species. A tree that is watered without rain, having a
Coultersville
and
Mariposa
are mining towns, south-easterly from Stockton. Near Mariposa is
Fremont's Vein
, and 45 miles east of Coultersville is the celebrated “Valley of the Yo-hamite,” which is pronounced by travelers one of the greatest of curiosities. It is a vast gorge in the Sierra, through which flows the Merced, a beautiful crystal stream, which rises high up in the mountains.
The highest known cataract on the globe is in this valley, the Yo-hamite Fall, which tumbles over a perpendicular ledge, 1,800 feet at one plunge, then taking a second plunge of 400, ends by a third leap of 600, making in all 2,800 feet, or over half a mile in descent. The stream being small looks, in the distance, more like a white ribbon than a cascade. The Merced enters the valley by more imposing cataracts of nearly 1,000 feet fall. How many other wonders exist in this strange locality remains for farther exploration to unfold. “The valley varies from a quarter to a mile in width, the bottom level and covered with a luxuriant growth of vegetation, grass interspersed with beautiful flowers, and the finest of pines and evergreen shrubs, and the pure, clear, sparkling Merced River winding its ways, ‘at its own sweet will,’ through the midst. With its two points of egress guarded, no human being, once placed here within its rocky mountain walls, could ever hope to escape.”
Beside the mountain ranges, with their summits clad with everlasting snow, and the beautiful scenery rendered more attractive by the wonderful purity of the atmosphere, California possesses many natural curiosities, among which are “The Geysers,” or hot sulphur springs, of Napa county, and the “natural bridges,” of Calaveras.
“The Geysers are from one to nine feet in diameter, and constantly in a boiling state, ejecting water to hights of 10 to 15 feet. Hundreds of fissures in the side of the mountain emit strong currents of heated gas, with a noise resembling that of vapor escaping from ocean steamers. We condense the following from Silliman's Journal, of Nov., 1851, by Professor Forest Shepard: ‘From a high peak we saw on the W. the Pacific, on the S. Mount Diablo and San Francisco Bay, on the E. the Sierra Nevada, and on the N. opened at our feet an immense chasm, from which, at the distance of four or five miles, we distinctly saw dense columns of steam rising. Descending, we discovered within half a mile square from 100 to 200 openings, whence issued dense columns of vapor, to the hight of from 150 to 200 feet, accompanied by a roar which could be heard for a mile or more. Many acted spasmodically, throwing up jets of hot, scalding water to the hight of 20 or 30 feet. Beneath your footsteps you hear the lashing and foaming gyrations; and on cutting through the surface, are disclosed streams of angry, boiling water.’
Near Vallecita, on Cayote creek, in Calaveras county, is a striking display of volcanic action, in the shape of what are called the natural bridges: two immense arches, thrown over the above-named creek, and covered with imitations of clusters of fruits and flowers, doubtless formed when the mass was first upheaved in a molten state. In the same vicinity is ‘Cayote Cave,’ a deep, semicircular chasm, entered by a perpendicular descent of 100 feet, aud then proceeding by a gradual slope till it reaches a depth of nearly 200 feet below the surface, where you come to a chamber called “The Cathedral,” from its containing two stones resembling bells, which, when struck, produce a chiming sound. Proceeding 100 feet farther, always on the descent, a lake is reached of great depth, and apparently covering many acres; but the exploration has not yet been carried beyond this point. The roof of the cave is studded with stalactites, assuming various fantastic forms.”
Benecia
is 30 miles from San Francisco, on the Straits of Carquinez. Vessels of the largest class can reach this point, and here the steamers of the Pacific Mail Steamship Line are refitted.
Vallejo
is a few miles nearer San Francisco, on the north side of the same straits. Benecia, Vallejo and San Jose have been by turns the seat of government of California. San Jose is at the head of the San Francisco Bay, some 50 miles from San Francisco. It is at the entrance of a most beautiful and fertile valley, and was long the headquarters of the native Californians, many of whom owned immense estates and herds of wild cattle. The celebrated
New Almaden
quicksilver mine is 12 miles south of the town.
On the Pacific coast, south of San Francisco, the first important place is
Monterey
, 90 miles distant. It was, under Mexican rule, the principal commercial point in, and capital of California. Next in order on the coast are
Santa Barbara, Los Angeles
and
San Diego
, the latter 490 miles from San Francisco, the southernmost port in the state, and the termination of the branch from Texas of the overland mail route. In the rear of Los Angeles, at the distance of 80 miles inland, the snow-capped peak of Mount St. Bernardino is seen. It marks the site of the beautiful valley in which is the Mormon settlement of Bernardino.
On the Pacific coast, north of San Francisco, the points of interest are
Humboldt City, Trinidad, Klamath
, and
Crescent City.
The latter is the sea-port of the south part of Oregon, being distant only a few miles from the southern boundary line of that state.
Fort Yuma
is at the south-eastern angle of the state, at the junction of the Colorado and Gila Rivers. It was built about the year 1851, by Major S. P. Heintzelman, U.S.A.
Arms of Oregon,
Motto
—
Oregon
is one of the Pacific states. The name,
Oregon
, is from Oregano, the Spanish word for wild marjoram; and it is from this word, or some other similar, that its name is supposed to have arisen. “But little was known of even its coast up to the latter part of the last century. Immediately after the last voyage of the renowned navigator, Capt. Cook, the immense quantities of sea-otter, beaver and other valuable furs to be obtained on the north-west coast of America, and the enormous prices which they would bring in China, was communicated to civilized nations, and created as much excitement as the discovery of a new gold region. Multitudes of people rushed at once into this lucrative traffic: so that in the year 1792, it is said that there were twenty-one vessels under different flags, but principally American, plying along the coast of Oregon, and trading with the natives. On the 7th of May, 1792, Capt. Robert Gray, of the ship
Columbia
, of Boston, discovered and entered the river, which he named from his vessel. He was, in reality, the first person who established the fact of the existence of this great river, and this gave to the United States the right to the country drained by its waters by the virtue of discovery. In 1804–5, Lewis and Clark explored the country, from the mouth of the Missouri to that of the Columbia. This exploration of the Columbia, the first ever made, constituted another ground of the claim of the United States to the country.
In 1808, the Missouri Fur Company, through their agent, Mr. Henry, established a trading-post on Lewis River, a branch of the Columbia, which was the first establishment of civilized people in this section of country. An attempt was made that year, by Capt. Smith, of the Albatross, of Boston, to found a trading-post on the south bank of the Columbia, forty miles
In the year 1810, John Jacob Astor, a German merchant of New York, who had accumulated an immense fortune by commerce in the Pacific and China, formed the Pacific Fur Company. His first objects were to concentrate in the company, the fur trade in the unsettled parts of America, and also the supply of merchandise for the Russian fur-trading establishments in the North Pacific. For these purposes, posts were established on the Missouri, and the Columbia, and vicinity. These posts were to be supplied with the merchandise required for trading by ships from the Atlantic coast, or across the country by way of the Missouri. A factory or depot was to be founded on the Pacific, for receiving this merchandise, and distributing it to the different posts, and for receiving in turn furs from them, which were to be sent by ships from thence to Canton. Vessels were also to be sent from the United States to the factory with merchandise, to be traded for furs, which would then be sent to Canton, and there exchanged for teas, silks, etc., to be in turn distributed in Europe and America.
This stupendous enterprise at the time appeared practicable. The only party from whom any rivalry could be expected, was the British North-west Company, and their means were far inferior to those of Astor. From motives of policy, he offered them one third interest, which they declined, secretly intending to forestall him. Having matured his scheme, Mr. Astor engaged partners, clerks, and
voyageurs
, the majority of whom were Scotchmen and Canadians, previously in the service of the North-west Company. Wilson P. Hunt, of New Jersey, was chosen the chief agent of the operations in western America.
In September, 1810, the ship
Tonquin
, Capt. Thorn, left New York for the mouth of the Columbia, with four of the partners, M'Kay, M'Dougal, and David and Robert Stuart, all British subjects, with clerks,
voyageurs
, and mechanics. In January, 1811, the second detachment, with Hunt, M'Clellan, M'Kenzie, and Crooks, also left New York to go overland by the Missouri to the same point, and in October, 1811, the ship
Beaver
, Capt. Sowles, with several clerks and attaches, left New York for the North Pacific. Prior to these, in 1809, Mr. Astor had dispatched the
Enterprise
, Capt. Ebberts, to make observations at the Russian settlements, and to prepare the way for settlements in Oregon. He also, in 1811, sent an agent to St. Petersburg, who obtained from the Russian American Fur Company, the monopoly of supplying their posts in the North Pacific with merchandise, and receiving furs in exchange.
In March, 1811, the
Tonquin
arrived at the Columbia, and soon after they commenced erecting on the south bank, a few miles inland, their factory or depot building: this place they named
Astoria.
In June, the
Tonquin
, with M'Kay, sailed north to make arrangements for trading with the Russians. In July, the Astorians were surprised by the appearance of a party of the North-west Company, under Mr. Thompson, who had come overland from Canada, to forestall them in the occupation of the mouth of the Columbia; but had been delayed too late for this purpose, in seeking a passage through the Rocky Mountains, and had been obliged to winter there. Mr. Thompson was accompanied on his return by David Stuart, who founded the trading post called
Okonogan.
In the beginning of the next year (1812), the detachment of Hunt came into Astoria, in parties, and in a wretched condition. They had been over a year in coming from St. Louis; had undergone extreme suffering from hunger, thirst, and cold, in their wanderings that winter, through the dreary wilderness of snow-clad mountains, from which, and other causes, numbers of them perished. In May, 1812, the Beaver, bringing the third detachment, under Mr. Clark, arrived in Astoria. They brought a letter which had been left at the Sandwich Islands by Capt. Ebberts, of the Enterprise, containing the sad intelligence that the Tonquin and her crew had been destroyed by the savages, near the Straits of Fuca, the June preceding.
In August, Mr. Hunt, leaving Astoria in the charge of M'Dougal, embarked in the Beaver to trade with the Russian posts, which was to have been. done by the Tonquin. He was successful, and effected, a highly advantageous arrangement at Sitka, with Baranof, governor of Russian America; took in a rich cargo of furs,via
the Sandwich Islands, where he, in person, remained, and in 1814, he returned to Astoria in the Peddler, which he had chartered, and found that Astoria was in the hands of the North-west Company.
When Hunt left in the Beaver, a party was dispatched, which established a trading post on the
Spokan.
Messrs. Crooks, M'Cellan, and Robert Stuart about this time, set out and crossed overland to New York, with an account of what had been done. The trade was in the meantime very prosperous, and a large quantity of furs had been collected at Astoria.
In January, 1813, the Astorians learned from a trading vessel that a war had broken out with England. A short time after, M'Tavish and Laroque, partners of the North-west Company, arrived at Astoria; M'Dougal and M'Kenzie (both Scotchmen) were the only partners there, and they unwisely agreed to dissolve the company in July. Messrs. Stuart and Clark, at the Okonogan and Spokan posts, both of which are within the limits of Washington Territory, opposed this; but it was finally agreed that if assistance did not soon arrive from the United States, they would abandon the enterprise.
M'Tavish and his followers, of the North-west Company, again visited Astoria, where they expected to meet the Isaac Todd, an armed ship from London, which had orders ‘to take and destroy everything American on the north-west coast.’ Notwithstanding, they were hospitably received, and held private conferences with M'Dougal and M'Kenzie, the result of which was, that they sold out the establishment, furs, etc., of the Pacific Company in the country, to the North-west Company, for about $58,004. That company were thus enabled to establish themselves in the country.
Thus ended the Astoria enterprise. Had the directing partners on the Columbia been Americans instead of foreigners, it is believed that they would, notwithstanding the war, have withstood all their difficulties. The sale was considered disgraceful, and the conduct of M'Dougal and M'Kenzie in that sale and subsequently, were such as to authorize suspicions against their motives; yet they could not have been expected to engage in hostilities against their countrymen and old friends.
The name of Astoria was changed by the British to that of Fort George. From 1813 to 1823, few, if any, American citizens entered the countries west of the Rocky Mountains. Nearly all the trade of the Upper Mississippi and Missouri, was carried on by the Old North American Fur Company, of which Astor was the head; and by the Columbian Fur Company, formed in 1822, composed mainly of persons who had been in the service of the North-west Company, and were dissatisfied with it. The Columbia Company established posts on the upper waters of the Mississippi, the Missouri, and the Yellow Stone, which wore transferred, in 1826, to the North American Company, on the junction of the two bodies. About this time, the overland trade with Santa Fe commenced, caravans passing regularly every summer between St. Louis and that place. In 1824, Ashley, of St Louis, re-established commercial communications with the country west of the Rocky Mountains, and built a trading post on Ashley's Lake, in Utah.
These active proceedings of the Missouri fur traders, stimulated the North American Fur Company to send their agents and attaches beyond the Rocky Mountains, although they built no posts. In 1827, Mr. Pilcher, of Missouri, went through the South Pass with forty-five men, and wintered on the head-waters of the Colorado, in what is now the north-east part of Utah. The next year he proceeded northwardly, along the base of the Rocky Mountains, to near latitude 47 deg. There he remained until the spring of 1829, when he descended Clark River to Fort Colville, then recently established at the falls, by the Hudson's Bay Company, which had a few years previous absorbed and united the interests of the North-west Company. He returned to the United States, through the long and circuitous far northward route of the Upper Columbia, the Athabasca, the Assinaboin, Red River, and the Upper Missouri. But little was known of the countries through which Pilcher traversed, previous to the publication of his concise narrative. The account of the rambles of J. O. Pattie, a Missouri fur trader, through New Mexico, Chihuahua, Sonora, and California, threw some light on the geography of those countries. In 1832, Capt. Bonneville, U.S.A., while on a furlough,
89
About the same time, Captain Wyeth, of Massachusetts, attempted to establish commercial relations with the countries on the Columbia, to which the name of
Oregon
then began to be universally applied. His plan was like that of Astor, with the additional scheme of transporting the salmon of the Oregon rivers to the United States. He made two overland expeditions to Oregon, established
Fort Hall
as a trading post, and another mainly for fishing purposes, near the mouth of the Willamette. This scheme failed, owing to the rivalry of the Hudson's Bay Company, who founded the counter establishment of Fort Boise, where, offering goods to the Indians at lower prices than Wyeth could afford, compelled him to desist, and he sold out his interests to them. Meanwhile, a brig he had dispatched from Boston, arrived in the Columbia, and returned with a cargo of salted salmon, but the results not being auspicious, the enterprise was abandoned.
The American traders being excluded by these, and other means from Oregon, mainly confined themselves to the regions of the head waters of the Colorado and the Utah Lake, where they formed one or two small establishments, and sometimes extended their rambles as far west as San Francisco and Monterey. The number of American hunters and trappers thus employed west of the Rocky Mountains, seldom exceeded two hundred; where, during the greater part of the year, they roved through the wilds in search of furs which they conveyed to their places of rendezvous in the mountain valleys, and bartered with them to the Missouri traders.
About the time of Wyeth's expeditions, were the earliest emigrations to Oregon of settlers from the United States. The first of these was founded in 1834, in the Willamette Valley, by a body of Methodists who went round by sea under the direction of the Rev. Messrs. Lee and Shepherd. In that valley a few retired servants of the Hudson's Bay Company were then residing, and engaged in herding cattle. The Congregationalists or Presbyterians planted colonies two or three years after, in the Walla-walla and Spokan countries, with Messrs. Parker, Spaulding, Gray, Walker, Eels, Smith, and Whitman as missionaries.
In all of these places mission schools were established for the instruction of the natives, and in 1839, a printing press was started at Walla-walla (now in Washington Territory), where were printed the first sheets ever struck off, on the Pacific side of the mountains, north of Mexico. On it books were printed from types set by native compositors. The Roman Catholics from Missouri, soon after founded stations on Clark River.
About the year 1837, the American people began to be deeply interested in the subject of the claims of the United States to Oregon, and societies were formed for emigration. From them and other sources, petitions were presented to congress, to either make a definite arrangement with Great Britain, the other claimant, or take immediate possession of the country. In each year, from 1838 to 1843, small parties emigrated overland from Missouri to Oregon, suffering much hardship on the route. At the close of 1842, the American citizens there numbered about four hundred. Relying upon the promise of protection held out by the passage of the bill in February, 1843, by the U. S. senate for the immediate occupation of Oregon, about one thousand emigrants, men, women, and children, assembled at Westport, on the Missouri frontier, in the succeeding June, and followed the route up the Platte, and through the South Pass, surveyed the previous year by Fremont; thence by Fort Hall to the Willamette Valley, where they arrived in October, after a laborious and fatiguing journey of more than two thousand miles. Others soon followed, and before the close of the next year, over 3,000 American citizens were in Oregon.
By the treaty for the purchase of Florida, in 1819, the boundary between the Spanish possessions and the United States was fixed on the N.W., at lat. 42 degs., the present northern line of Utah and California; by this the United States succeeded to such title to Oregon as Spain may have derived by the right of discovery through its early navigators. In June, of 1846, all the difficulties in relation to Oregon, which at one time threatened war, were settled by treaty between the two
Oregon was organized as a territory in 1848, and included in its boundaries the present Territory of Washington—an immense area of about 250,000 square miles, with an average width east and west of 540, and north and south of 470 miles. A state constitution was adopted in convention, Sept. 18, 1857, and ratified by the people on the 9th of November following. At the same time the question of admitting slaves and free negroes into the state was submitted to the people. The vote on these questions was: for slavery, 2,645; against slavery, 7,727; majority against, 5,082; for free negroes, 1,081; against free negroes, 8,640; majority against, 7,559. The constitution prohibited negroes, Chinamen, and mulattoes from voting; and persons concerned in dueling ineligible to offices of trust and profit. On the 14th of Feb., 1859, Oregon was admitted by congress as a state, and with greatly contracted boundaries. Its extreme extent in latitude is from 42° to 46° 12′ N., in longitude from 116° 45′ to 124° 30′ W. from Greenwich. It has an average length, east and west, of about 350, and width, north and south, of 260 miles giving an area of about 90,000 square miles. The act of admission gives two sections of land in every township for the use of schools, grants 72 sections for a state university, and five per cent of the net proceeds of the sales of the public lands for public roads and internal improvements within the state.
Oregon is bounded north and east by Washington Territory, south by Utah Territory and California, and west by the Pacific Ocean. It is divided into three sections. The
first
, or western section is that between the Pacific Ocean and the Cascade range of mountains. This range runs parallel with the sea coast the whole length of the state, and is continued through California, under the name of the Sierra Nevada. The
second
, or middle section, is that between the Cascade and Blue Mountains: it comprises nearly half the state: the surface is about 1,000 feet above the western section. It is generally a high rolling prairie country, destitute of timber, and but a small part of it adapted to farming. The
third
, or eastern section, lies south and east of the Blue Mountains: it is mostly a rocky and barren waste. The Columbia is the great river of the state, nearly all others being its tributaries. It is navigable from the ocean 120 miles, for vessels of 12 feet draught: from thence its course is obstructed by falls and rapids, which will eventually be overcome by locks and canals. During freshets, it is in many places confined by
dalles, i. e.
narrows, which back the water, covering the islands and tracts of low prairie, giving the appearance of lakes. The Dalles of the Columbia, 94 miles below the mouth of Lewis Fork, is a noted place, where the river passes between vast masses of rock.
The settled part of Oregon, and the only portion likely to possess much interest for years to come, is the first or western section, lying between the Cascade Mountains and the Pacific—a strip of country 280 long, north and south, and 120 miles broad, east and west. A writer familiar with it gives this description:
Western Oregon, between the Cascades and the Pacific, is made up chiefly of three valleys, those of the Willamette (pronounced Wil-lam'-ette), Umpqua and Rogue Rivers. The first named stream begins in the Cascade Mountains, runs west 60 miles. then turns northward, runs 140 miles, and empties into the Columbia.
View in the Valley of the Willamette.
The tributary streams of the Willamette are very numerous, and their course in the valley is usually crooked, as the main stream itself is, having many “sloughs,” “bayous,” or “arms,” as they are differently called. In some places the land is marshy, and everywhere moist. Drouth will never be known in western Oregon; its climate is very wet, both summer and winter, the latter season being one long rain, and the former consisting of many short ones, with a little sunshine intervening. The winters are warm, and the summers rather cool—too cool for growing melons, maize and sweet potatoes. Wheat, oats, barley, potatoes, and domestic animals thrive well. The climate, take it all in all, is much like that of England, and all plants and animals which do well in Britain will prosper in Oregon. The Oregon fruit is excellent, particularly the apples and plums; the peaches and pears are not quite so good as those of California.
All along the coast of Oregon, there is a range of mountains about forty miles wide, and they are so densely timbered with cedar, pine, spruce and fir, that the density of the wood alone would render them worthless for an age, if they were not rugged. But they are very rugged, and the Umpqua and Rogue Rivers, in making their way through them, have not been able to get any bottom lands, and are limited to narrow, high-walled canons. The only tillable lands on the banks of those rivers are about fifty miles from the sea, each having a valley which, in general terms, may be described as twelve miles wide by thirty long. Rogue River valley is separated from California by the Siskiyou Mountains, about 5,000 feet high, and from Umpqua valley by the Canon Mountains, about 3,000 feet high; and
All Oregon—that is, its western division, except the low lands of the Willamette, Umpqua and Rogue valleys—is covered with dense timber, chiefly of coarse grained wood—such as fir, spruce and hemlock. In the south-western corner of the state, however, there are considerable forests of white cedar—a large and beautiful tree, producing a soft, fine-grained lumber, and very fragrant with a perfume, which might be imitated by mixing ottar of roses with turpentine. Oak and ash are rare. Nearly all the trees are coniferous.
Giant Pines of Oregon.
In Rogue valley and along the beach of the Pacific there are extensive gold gings. There are also large seams of tertiary coal at Coose Bay. These are the only valuable minerals in the state. The scenery on the Columbia is grand, from Walla-walla, where it first touches Oregon, to the ocean. There are five mountain peaks in the state, rising to the region of perpetual snow: Mount Hood, 13,700 feet high; Mount Jefferson, 11,900; the Three Sisters, Mount Scott, and Mount McLaughlin, all about 9,000 feet high.
The people are generally intelligent, industrious and moral. There are about a dozen newspapers published in Oregon, all of them weeklies. The chief exports are wheat, flour, apples, butter, cheese, salted salmon, salted meats, and coals, from 10,000 to 20,000 head of horned cattle and sheep are annually driven to California.
Salmon are very abundant in the Columbia and its branches, and those taken at the mouth of the main stream are said to be the best on the coast. The fishing is done chiefly by Indians.
Such is a brief and a fair statement of the resources and condition of Oregon. It is made to convey a correct idea of the state—not to attract or deter emigration.
The population of Oregon is largely composed of emigrants from Missouri and Illinois. In 1848, it was estimated at about 8,000 souls; in 1860, it was 52,566.
Portland
, the largest and most important town in Oregon, is upon the Willamette, at the head of ship navigation, 15 miles above its entrance into the Columbia, and overland from St. Louis 2,300 miles. Population about 3,000. Almost the whole of the foreign trade of Oregon is done through Portland, excepting the southern part, and that finds its seaport in Crescent City, of California. Portland lies 120 miles from the ocean, access to it being had through the Columbia, which at low tide, in dry seasons, has only 9 feet of water—scarcely enough for sea-going vessels. The Pacific coast is destitute of good harbors.
Oregon City
is 12 miles above Portland, in a narrow high walled valley on the Willamette, which affords here, by its falls, great water power for manufacturing facilities. Excepting at this place and on the Columbia River, water power is scarce in Oregon, save at points very difficult of access.
Astoria
is on the south side of the Columbia, 10 miles from its mouth. This place, so long noted as an important depot in the fur trade, has now but a few dwellings. In this neighborhood are forests of pine, which have long been noted for their beauty and size. Lieut. Wilkes thus speaks of them: “Short excursions were made by many of us in the vicinity, and one of these was to visit the primeval forest of pines in the rear of Astoria, a sight well worth seeing. Mr, Drayton took a camera lucida drawing of one of the largest trees, which the preceding plate is engraved from. It conveys a good idea of the thick growth of trees, and is quite characteristic of this forest. The soil on which this timber grows is rich and fertile, but the obstacles to the agriculturist are almost insuperable. The largest tree of the sketch was thirty-nine feet six inches in circumference, eight feet above the ground, and had a bark eleven inches thick. The hight could not be ascertained, but it was thought to be upward of two hundred and fifty feet, and the tree was perfectly straight.” These trees, for at least one hundred and fifty feet, are without branches. In many places those which have fallen down, present barriers to the vision, even when the traveler is on horseback; and between the old forest trees that are lying prostrate, can be seen the tender and small twig beginning its journey to an amazing hight.
Salem
, the capital of Oregon, is on the Willamette, 50 miles above Oregon City. The other towns on this river and tributaries are
Milwaukee, Buteville, Champoeg, Fairfield, Albany, Corvallis, Booneville, Eugene City, Clackamas, Lafayette, Parkersburg, and Santiane.
On the Umpqua are
Gardner, Middleton, Scottsburg, Winchester, Roseburg
, and
Canonville.
In Rogue valley are
Jacksonville, Waldo
, and
Althouse.
On the Columbia the towns are
Astoria, Rainier, Gardner, St. Helena
, and the
Dalles
, all very small places.
Washington Territory
is the extreme north-western domain of the United States, and was formed by act of congress, in 1853, from the north part of Oregon Territory. Its early history is identified with and partially given in that of Oregon. Okonogan and Spokan, two of the trading posts of John Jacob Astor, were within its limits, and the Hudson's Bay Company had also numerous posts, and carried on extensive trading operations on its soil. In 1806, the British North-west Fur Company established a trading post on Frazer's Lake, in latitude 54°, which was the first settlement of any kind made by the Anglo-Saxon race west of the Rocky Mountains. About the year 1839, missions were established by Protestants and Catholics, among the Indians of the country.
Down to the period of the administration of President Polk, the United States government claimed latitude 54° 40′ as the northern boundary. Then the long dispute was settled by fixing upon the 49th parallel, and giving up Vancouver's Island to the British. It is bounded N. by the Straits of Fuca and the 49th parallel of latitude; on the E. by the Rocky Mountains; on the S. by Utah Territory and Oregon; and on the W. by the Pacific Ocean. Its extreme dimensions, east and west, are about 580, and north and south, 480 miles.
The Cascade range of mountains enters it from Oregon, and runs its entire length north and south. In a general description, the face of the country is mountainous, and resembles Oregon, excepting that the Blue Mountain range is more scattered north of the Columbia. Mount Olympus, the highest peak of the Coast range, is 8,197 feet high: several of those of the Cascade range are clothed in perpetual snow, among which are Mount St. Helen's a volcanic peak, and Mount Rainer, each estimated at about 13,000 feet in altitude. The Pacific coast is not so abruptly mountainous as that of Oregon, and can be traveled almost its entire length on a beautiful sand beach. It shares with Oregon the grand scenery of the Columbia, which is its principal river, and its main branches rise within it. On the rivers are many falls of magnitude: one of these, the celebrated Snoqualmie, in about 47° 40′ N. lat., and 121° 30′ W. long., has a perpendicular fall of 260 feet. The mountain scenery of the country is surpassingly beautiful.
“The climate is similar to that of Oregon, with some variations caused by difference
The soil of all the prairie lands, with the exception of those directly around Puget Sound, is exceedingly fertile. Those of the sound are of a sandy, gravelly nature, not readily cultivated, but producing enormous fir and cedar trees. The soil on the mountains is generally very rich; but the dense growth of forest deters the emigrant from attempting clearings on a large extent, as the fine, fertile plains and prairie offer far greater inducements. Fruit of various kinds, particularly apples, can be cultivated very readily, and in the greatest perfection. Indian corn does not thrive well, as the seasons are not hot enough; but wheat, barley, oats, and potatoes yield the most abundant crops, of the finest quality. The potatoes, in particular, are surpassingly fine. The wheat grown on the Columbia, called Oregon wheat, is known for its superior excellence.
Although the territory is a very mountainous country, yet there are many immense plains and prairies; and, by reference to the map, it will be seen that innumerable streams, like veins, permeate the whole region, and each of them, from the largest to the smallest, flows in its course through rich and fertile plains, of various sizes, lying between the mountains. Governor Stevens, in January, 1854, writing of the territory, says of the waters of Puget Sound, and the adjacent ones of Hood's Canal, Admiralty Inlet, and Fuca Straits, ‘that their maritime advantages are very great, in affording a series of harbors almost unequaled in the world for capacity, safety, and facility of access, and they are in the immediate neighborhood to what are now the best whaling grounds of the Pacific. That portion of Washington Territory lying between the Cascade Mountains and the ocean, although equaling, in richness of soil and ease of transportation, the best lands of Oregon, is heavily timbered, and time and labor are required for clearing its forests and opening the earth to the production of its fruits. The great body of the country, on the other hand, stretching eastward from that range to the Rocky Mountains, while it contains many fertile valleys and much land suitable to the farmer, is yet more especially a grazing country—one which, as its population increases, promises, in its cattle, its horses, and, above all, its wool, to open a vast field to American enterprise. But, in the meantime, the staple of the land must continue to be the one which Nature herself has planted, in the inexhaustible forests of fir, of spruce, and of cedar. Either in furnishing manufactured timber, or spars of the first description for vessels, Washington Territory is unsurpassed by any portion of the Pacific coast.’
The internal improvements of Washington Territory are progressing as fast as can be expected in a new and sparsely-populated country, situate so remote from the general government. In 1853, Governor Isaac I. Stevens, the first governor of the territory, surveyed a route for a Northern Pacific Railroad, and discovered a pass near the sources of Maria's River, suitable for a railroad, estimated to be 2,500 feet lower than the south pass of Fremont. It is generally admitted that Governor Stevens' route is the best one for a railroad that has yet been discovered, although the great, and, in fact the principal objection urged against it is that it is too far north, and, consequently, will not suit the views nor accommodate the inhabitants of the more southern states and California.
There is no state in the Union that has so vast a communication by water as Washington Territory—the Columbia River on its south, the Pacific on the west, and the Straits of Fuca, Hood's Canal, Admiralty Inlet, and Puget Sound on the north. There is not a safer entrance from the ocean in the world than Fuca Straits; and the deep waters that flow through the whole of the inlets, bays, and sounds, enable ships of the largest class readily to approach Olympia, the seat of government, at the head of Budd's Inlet, Puget Sound. For a whaling station, the harbors and bays of the Straits of Fuca present remarkable advantages for ships, while for vessels of smaller size Shoal-water Bay can can not be surpassed.”
The first Federal officer who reached the territory, after its separation from Oregon, was the U. S. marshal, Col. J. Patton Anderson, who arrived in July, 1853, and proceeded at once to take the census. By November it
Olympia
is the capital of the territory. It is on Tenalquet's or Strule's River, at its entrance into Puget Sound, and contains, perhaps, 1,000 inhabitants.
The other principal towns, or settlements, are
Nesqually, Steilacoom, Seattle, Port Townsend, New York
, and
New Dungeness
, on Puget Sound;
Pacific City, Catalmet, Fort Vancouver, Monticello
, and
Cascade City
, on the Columbia River;
Wabassport
and
Cowlitz Farms
, on Cowlitz River; and
Pennscove
, on Whiddy's Island.
New Mexico
is older than any English settlement in North America. It was a Spanish province in the century before the cavaliers had landed at Jamestown, and the Puritans had trod the snow-clad rock of Plymouth. In 1530, Nuno de Guzman, president of Mexico or New Spain, had in his service an Indian, a native of a country called Tejos or Texos, probably the present Texas, who informed him that when a boy he used to accompany his father, a merchant, on trading expeditions to a people in a country in the far interior, when the latter, in exchange for handsome feathers to ornament their heads, obtained great quantity of gold and silver; that, on one occasion, he had seen seven large towns, in which were entire streets occupied by people working in precious metals. That to get there, it was necessary to travel forty days through a wilderness, where nothing was to be obtained excepting short grass, and then penetrate into the interior of the country by keeping due north. Fired by these reports, Guzman organized an army of 400 Spaniards and 20,000 Indians, to penetrate this land of gold. He started from Mexico and went as far as Culiacan, the limit of his government when the obstacles were such, in passing the mountains beyond, that his people deserted in great numbers. Moreover, he heard that his personal enemy, Hernando Cortez, was returning to Mexico, loaded with titles and favors. He gave up the expedition, and was soon after thrown into prison; and the Tejos Indian died.
In 1528, Pamphilo Narvaez, the unfortunate rival of Hernando Cortez, being appointed governor of Florida, set sail from St. Domingo with 400 men in five ships, for that coast. The expedition was tragic in its results. Soon after discovering the mouth of the Mississippi, all had perished but three; some from hunger, some by shipwreck, and some by the hostility of the natives.
“There only survived Cabeza de Vaca, boatmaster, Esteva Dorantes, an Arabian negro, and Castillo Maldonado. At the end of eight years, these three men reached Mexico, having traversed on foot the American continent from the Mississippi to the Pacific Ocean. They related their adventures, declared that they had met with Indian tribes, some of whom cultivated maize, while others lived on fish and the produce of the chase; that they had heard of large towns with lofty houses containing many stories, and situated in the same direction as those spoken of by the Tejos Indian.”
Mendosa, the viceroy of New Spain, had these three travelers brought before him, and communicated the information they gave him to Francisco Vasquez Coronado, governor of the province of Culiacan, the chief town of which, Culiacan, was 68 miles west of Mexico. In March, 1539, Coronado sent forward an exploring expedition under Father Marcos, in company with two other monks, the negro Esteva above spoken of, and some friendly Indians.
As he journeyed along, Father Marcos met entire populations, who received him with pleasure, and presented him with provisions and flowers. He passed into the valley of the Sonora. “The inhabitants of this valley were numerous and intelligent; the women wore petticoats of tanned deerskin. Every morning the caciques ascended little eminences, and, for above an hour, would indicate aloud what each was to do during the day. At their religious ceremonies they stuck arrows around their temples, resembling in this the Zunis of the present day, who sometimes stick them round their altars and tombs. Father Marcos found, on the borders of this desert, other Indians, who were greatly surprised to see him, for they had not the slightest idea of the Christians. Some of them would try to touch his garments, and would call him
Soyota
, which signifies, Man come down from heaven. Those Indians told him that, should he continue his route, he would soon enter a very extensive plain, full of large towns, which were inhabited by people clad in cotton, wearing gold rings and earrings, and making use of little blades of the same metal to scrape the perspiration off their bodies.
Although the information given by Father Marcos is rather vague, and though it is scarcely possible to state precisely the route he followed, or to indicate the geographical positions of the countries he passed through, it is probable that the plain here spoken of is that of the Rio de Las Casas Grande, situated 150 miles east of the Rio Sonora, which is to this day all covered with imposing ruins, reminding one of handsome and populous cities.”
After a few days march, Father Marcos arrived at Vacapa, now known as Magdalena, in Sonora, near the American line, a short distance below Tubac, Arizona. Here Father Marcos remained to rest himself, among a friendly people; but finding the negro, Esteva, was abusing hospitality, by misconducting himself toward the native women, he sent him forward to make discoveries and report. Four days afterward, the negro dispatched to Marcos an Indian messenger, who related wonderful things of a large town, called Cibola, known in the present day as Zuni, and westward of Santa Fe. “According to the fashion of his tribe, the messenger's face, breast, and arms, were painted. Those Indians, whom the Spaniards called
Pintados
, lived on the frontiers of the seven towns forming the kingdom of Cibola; their descendants, now called Papagos and Pimas, still reside in the same country, which extends from the valley of Santa Cruz to the Rio Gila. Cibola, the first of the seven towns and capital of the kingdom of that name, was situated thirty days' journey from Vacapa. The Pintados said they often went there, and were employed in tilling the ground, and received for their wages turquoises and tanned hides.
An Indian of this town told Father Marcos, that ‘Cibola was a great city, densely peopled, with a great number of streets and squares; that in some quarters there were very large houses, with ten stories, where the chieftains assembled, at certain times of the year, to discuss public affairs. The doors and fronts of those houses were adorned with turquoises. The inhabitants
Having rested himself, Father Marcos pushed forward to rejoin his negro, and was everywhere welcomed by the natives until he had reached, on the 9th of May, the last desert that separated him from Cibola. He there had stopped to dine at a farm house, when he was astonished by the entrance of Esteva's companions, covered with perspiration, faint and trembling from fatigue and fear. He reported that Esteva had been imprisoned, and then killed by the people of Cibola, together with several of his Indian followers The negro, probably, had been guilty of some misconduct. Marcos, in con. sternation, took the back track to Culiacan.
“Captain-General Vasquez Coronado, encouraged by the accounts given by Father Marcos, and hoping to discover new territories, at once organized in New Spain a little army, which assembled at Compostella, and on the day following Easter, 1540, he put himself at the head of his troops, composed of 150 horsemen 200 archers, and 800 Indians. Having reached Culiacan, the army halted to take rest. At the end of a fortnight, Coronado moved forward, accompanied by fifty horsemen, a few foot soldiers, and his best friends, among whom was Father Marcos. The command of the remainder of the troops was confided to Don Tristan d'Arellano, with orders to leave fifteen days after, and to follow the same route as the captain-general.
After a month of fatigue and of privations of all kinds, Vasquez Coronado arrived at Chichilticale. This name, which signifies Red Town, was given to this locality because a large house of that color was to be seen there, which was in habited by an entire tribe that came from Cibola, where the last desert begins. A this place the Spaniards lost several horses, and even some men, from want of food Nevertheless, encouraged by their chief, they continued their march, and, a fort-night after they had left Chichilticale, they arrived within twenty-six miles of Cibola. They saw for the first time the natives of this singular kingdom; but the latter immediately took to flight, spreading the alarm throughout the country by means of great fires which they kindled on the high mountains—a custom in us to this day among the tribes of New Mexico.
Next day, Coronado came within sight of Cibola; the inhabitants of the provine had all assembled and awaited the Spaniards with a steady attitude. Far from accepting the proposals of peace which were offered to them, they threatened the interpreters with death. The Spaniards then, crying out, ‘San Jago! San Jago!’ attacked the Indians with impetuosity, and notwithstanding a vigorous resistance Coronado entered the town of Cibola as conqueror.”
The remainder of the troops, under d'Arellano, after a march of 975 miles by a different route, in which they crossed many rivers flowing into the California Gulf, rejoined the main army at Cibola. On their way they founded the town of San Hieronymo, and in that vicinity found Indian agricultural tribes who tamed eagles, as is yet the custom among some tribes of New Mexico.
Coronado now sent Alvarado, his lieutenant, to conquer the province of Tiguex, on the Rio Grande, which he subdued after a campaign of fifty days. “It contained
The young girls went wholly naked during even the most severe weather, and were not allowed to cover themselves until they were married. The object of this was that their shame might be exposed in case they misbehaved—a kind of a guard to chastity. “The young people could only enter the married state with the permission of the old men who governed the town. The young man had then to spin and weave a mantle; when completed, the girl who was destined to become his bride was brought to him; he wrapped the mantle round her shoulders and she thus became his wife.
From Tiguex, the Spaniards went to Cicuye—now called Pecos—which they also subdued. From thence, Coronado started for Quivira, with a few men chosen among his best soldiers, postponing, until the following spring, the conquest of the whole province. In 1542, the Spaniards found themselves masters of almost all New Mexico, whose center was formed by the province of Tiguex, around which were grouped seventy-one towns distributed among fourteen provinces, viz: Cibola, which contained seven towns; Tucayan, seven; Acuco, one; Tiguex, twelve; Cutahaco, eight; Quivix, seven; the Snowy Mountains, seven; Ximena, three; Cicuye, one; Hemes, seven; Aquas Calientes, three; Yuque-yunque, six; Braba, one, and Chia, one. Besides these seventy-one towns, there were many others scattered outside this circle; as also several tribes living in tents.”
In April, 1543, Coronado returned with his followers to Culiacan. “Juan de Padilla, of the order of Saint Francis, preferred remaining at Quivira to preach the gospel to the Indians, and became a martyr. Brother Luis, of the same order, went to Cicuye, but was never more heard of. Such was the end of this expedition, which, instead of having a favorable result for the Spaniards, only tended to arouse against them the profound antipathy of the natives, who had been very ill-treated by the conquerors.
In 1581, a band of adventurers, commanded by Francisco de Leyva Bonillo, took possession of part of the province of Tiguex, and finding its productions, riches, and inhabitants very like those of Mexico, they called it New Mexico.”
* Abridged from Domenech's Seven Years' Residence in the Deserts of North America. The Abbe Domenech derived this history mainly from the “Narrative of the Expedition to Cibola; by Pedro de Castaneda Nagera.” He was in Coronado's army, and this narrative was published in Paris in 1837.
“In the year 1595, Don Juan de Onate de Zacatecas, at the head of a band of two hundred soldiers, established the first legal colony in the province, over which he was established as governor. He took with him a number of Catholic priests to establish missions among the Indians, with power sufficient to promulgate the gospel at the point of the bayonet, and administer baptism by the force of arms.
The colony progressed rapidly; settlements extended in every quarter; and, as tradition relates, many valuable mines were discovered and worked. The poor IndiansPueblos
took place throughout the province. General hostilities having commenced, and a large number of Spaniards massacred all over the province, the Indians laid siege to the capital, Santa Fe, which the governor was obliged to evacuate, and retreat south three hundred and twenty miles, where the refugees then founded the town of El Paso del Norte. For ten years the country remained in possession of the Indians, when it was reconquered by the Spaniards. In 1698, the Indians rose, but the insurrection was soon quelled. After this they were treated with more humanity, each pueblo being allowed a league or two of land, and permitted to govern themselves. Their rancorous hatred for their conquerors, however, never entirely subsided; yet no further outbreak occurred until 1837. In that year a revolution took place, by which the government of the country was completely overthrown, and most atrocious barbarities committed by the insurgents, Including the Pueblo Indians. The governor, Perez, was savagely put to death—his head cut off and used as a football by the insurgents in their camp. The ex-governor, Abrew, was butchered in a more barbarous manner. His hands were cut off; his tongue and eyes were pulled out; his enemies, at the same time, taunting him with opprobrious epithets. The next season Mexican authority was again established over the province.”
The first
American
who ever crossed the desert plains, intervening between New Mexico and the settlements on the Mississippi River, was one James Pursley. While wandering over the wild and then unexplored regions west of the Mississippi, he fell in with some Indians near the head-waters of the Platte River, in the Rocky Mountains, whom he accompanied, in 1805, to Santa Fe, where he remained several years. In 1804, a merchant of Kaskaskia, named Morrison, having heard by the trappers, through the Indians, of this isolated province, dispatched a
French Creole
, named La Lande, with some goods, up the Platte, with directions to make his way to Santa Fe. La Lande never returned to his employer, to account for the proceeds of his adventure, but settled in Santa Fe, grew rich by trading, and died some 20 years after. In 1806, the celebrated Captain Pike visited this country: his exciting descriptions, as given in his narrative, roused the western country, and eventually led to the overland trade, by caravans, with western Missouri, known as the Santa Fe trade, which finally grew into an immense business, employing an army of wagoners, and amounting in annual value to four or five millions of dollars. Santa Fe was not entirely the consumer of these importations, but rather the depot from whence they were distributed to Chihuahua and other portions of northern Mexico.
When Texas achieved her independence she included New Mexico within the statutory limits of the republic, although Santa Fe had never been conquered or settled by Texans. A desert or uninhabited country of 600 miles intervened between Austin, the Texan capital, and Santa Fe. The Texans wished to divert the overland trade which was going on between the Missourians and the New Mexicans to their country, and their secretary of war proposed , as a preparatory step, the construction of a military road from Austin to Santa Fe. In the spring of 1841, extensive preparations were made in Texas for an armed visit to Santa Fe, the objects being to induce the New Mexicans to acknowledge the right of Texas to complete jurisdiction over them, and to open a trade with the people. On the 20th of June, 270 armed Texans, under Gen. Hugh M'Leod, started from Brushy creek, near Austin, en route for Santa Fe. This expedition, known as the “Santa Fe expedition,” was unfortunate in its results. The upshot of it was, that they encountered great hardships on the deserts, and were finally, when in a half starved condition, near San Miguel, induced by treachery to surrender
In 1846, at the commencement of the war with Mexico, the army of the west was organized, to conquer New Mexico and California. This army was composed of a mounted regiment of Missourians, and a battalion each of infantry, dragoons, and light artillery. After a fifty days' march from Fort Leavenworth, of nearly 900 miles, they entered Santa Fe on the 18th of August.
“On their arrival, the American commander, General Kearney, in accordance with his directions, proclaimed himself governor of New Mexico. ‘You are now,’ said he, ‘American citizens; you no longer owe allegiance to the Mexican government’ The principal men then took the oath of allegiance to the United States, and whoever was false to this allegiance, the people were told, would be punished as traitors. It was questioned whether the administration bad not transcended its powers in thus annexing a territory to the Union without the permission of congress.
General Kearney, having appointed Charles Bent governor of New Mexico, on the 25th of September, took a small force with him and proceeded overland to California. Col. Price arrived soon after at Santa Fe with recruits. The Navajo Indians having commenced hostilities against the New Mexicans, ‘new inhabitants of the United States,’ Col. Doniphan, who had been left in command, set out westward with the Missouri regiment to make peace with them. Winter was fast approaching, and after suffering incredible hardships in crossing the mountains, poorly clad as they were, among snows and mountain storms, they finally accomplished their object. Capt. Reid, of one of the divisions of thirty men, volunteered to accompany Sandoval, a Navajo chief, five days through the mountain hights, to a grand gathering of the men and women of the tribe. They were completely in the power of the Indians, but they won their hearts by their gayety and confidence. Most of them had never seen a white man. Reid and his companions joined the dance, sung their country's songs, and, what pleased the Navajoes most, interchanged with them their costume. On the 22d of November, a treaty was made in form, by which the three parties, Americans, New Mexicans and Navajoes, agreed to live in perpetual peace.
By the middle of December, Col. Doniphan, leaving Col. Price in command at Santa Fe, commenced his march with his regiment south to Chihuahua, and on his route met and defeated superior forces of the enemy at Bracito, and at the Sacramento Pass.
In the meantime, the New Mexicans secretly conspired to throw off the yoke. Simultaneously, on the 19th of January, in the valley of Taos, massacres occurred at Fernandez, when were cruelly murdered Governor Bent, Sheriff Lee, and four others; at Arroyo Hondo, five Americans were killed, and a few others in the vicinity. Col. Price, on receiving the intelligence, marched from Santa Fe, met and defeated the insurrectionists in several engagements in the valley, with a loss of about three hundred. The Americans lost in killed and wounded about sixty. Fifteen of the insurrectionists were executed.”
New Mexico was ceded to the United States by the treaties with Mexico of 1848 and of 1854. The cession of 1854 included that narrow strip of territory south of the Gila and west of the Rio Grande, known as the “Gadsden Purchase,” or Arizona. In 1850, a territorial government was established over New Mexico.
New Mexico lies between 103° and 116° W. long., and 31° and 38° N. lat. It is 750 miles in extent from east to west, and 470 from north to south. It includes the Mexican province of New Mexico, which lies east of and on the Rocky Mountains; a large part of what was Upper California, prior to its
New Mexico, as a whole, “is a region of high table lands, crossed mountain ranges, and barren to the last degree.” It has scarce a single water communication of consequence with the rest of the world. The famous Rio Grande is shallow, full of sand bars, and at times almost too low to an Indian canoe. Many of the streams run in deep, frightful chasms, which it is impossible, for days of travel, to penetrate. There is not enough fertile land ever to support any but a slight agricultural population, and little timber excepting the
mesquit
—a thorny, disagreeable tree, that most of its growing underground: its roots being multitudinous, twisting and burrowing in all directions, and of no use but for fuel. Beside this is the cactus, in many varieties, that shown in the engraving being confined within narrow lines of latitude.
Mescal
, a kind of whisky, of a most pungent, acrid flavor, is made from some varieties of this plant.
The Giant Cactus.
“The climate of New Mexico is unsurpassingly pure and healthy. A sultry day is very rare. The summer nights are cool and pleasant. The winters are but uniform, and the atmosphere of an extraordinary dryness; and there little rain, except from July to October. The general range of the thermometer is from 10 deg. to 75 deg. above Fahrenheit. Fevers are uncommon, and ins of remarkable longevity are frequent. Persons withered almost to mummies met with occasionally, whose extraordinary age is shown by their recollection of certain notable events, which have taken place in times far remote.
Agriculture is in a very primitive and unimproved state, the hoe being used by a greater part of the peasantry. Wheat and Indian corn are the principal staples; cotton, flax, and tobacco, although indigenous, are not cultivate: the soil is finely adapted to the Irish potato. The most important natural prod the soil is its pasturage. Most of the high table plains afford the finest grazing, while, for want of water, they are utterly useless for other purposes. That scanty moisture which suffices to bring forth the natural vegetation, is insufficient for agricultural
90grama
, which is of a very short and curly quality. The highlands, upon which alone this sort of grass is produced, being seldom verdant until after the rainy season sets in, the
grama
is only in perfection from August to October. But being rarely nipped by the frost until the rains are over, it cures upon the ground and remains excellent hay—equal, if not superior, to that which is cut and stacked from our western prairies. Although the winters are rigorous, the feeding of stock is almost entirely unknown in New Mexico; nevertheless, the extensive herds of the country, not only of cattle and sheep, but of mules and horses, generally maintain themselves in excellent condition upon the dry pasturage alone through the cold season, and until the rains start up the green grass again the following summer.
The mechanic arts are very rude, even sawed lumber being absolutely unknown. The New Mexicans are celebrated for the manufacture of a beautiful serape or blanket, which is woven into gaudy, rainbow-like hues. Their domestic goods are nearly all wool, the manufacture of which is greatly embarrassed for the want of adequate machinery.
The system of
Peon
slavery existed under the Mexican dominion. By the local laws, a debtor was imprisoned for debt until it was paid; or, if the creditor chose, he took the debtor as a servant to work out his claim. This system operated with a terrible severity upon the unfortunate poor who, although they worked for fixed wages, received so small a compensation, that if the debt was of any amount, it compelled them to a perpetual servitude, as he received barely sufficient for food and clothing.”
Evidences of volcanic action abound in various parts of New Mexico, and the country is rich in gold, silver, and copper. Anthracite coal of an excellent quality is found near Santa Fe. Through its mineral wealth it may eventually have a considerable population; but most of the food to support it will require to be transported thither from the agricultural districts of the Mississippi valley.
The population of New Mexico has been nearly stationary for a long period. In 1860, it was ascertained to be about 93,000, viz: 42,000 Indians, about half civilized; 41,000 peons; and 7,300 white native citizens, mostly of Mexican blood. The number of Americans in the whole country, is less than is contained in ordinary agricultural townships with us.
Santa Fe,
the capital of New Mexico, sometimes written Santa Fe de San Francisco—
i. e.
Holy Faith of St. Francis—is the only town of importance. It is, by air lines, 660 miles west of the Arkansas frontier, 450 southeasterly from Salt Lake City, 900 east-south-east of San Francisco, and 260 north of El Paso, the nearest point in Mexico. “It is on the site of an ancient Indian pueblo, some fifteen miles east of the Rio del Norte, at the base of a snow-clad mountain, and contains a little over three thousand souls, and with its corporate surrounding villages about double that number. The town is irregularly laid out, and is a wretched collection of mud houses, much scattered with intervening corn-fields. The only attempt at architectural compactness, consists of four tiers of buildings around the public square, comprising the governor's house, the custom house, barracks, etc.”
In the center of the public square “all the neighboring
rancheros
assemble to sell the produce of their farms and industry. All day long files of donkeys may be seen arriving there, laden with barrels of Taos whisky, bales of goods, forage, wood, earthen jars, melons, grapes, red and green pimentos, onions, pasteques, eggs,Pinus monophylla.
These pinones are generally baked in the oven, or roasted on cinders, as a means of preserving them better. Besides those provisions, the Santa Fe market also affords a great variety of bread and meat. The Indians of the pueblos, too, carry quantities of fish there, either fresh or dried in the sun. In the evening, after the
Angelus
, the square is filled with loungers, who chat, play, laugh, and smoke, until the hour for the fandango; for be it known, the young people of Mexico could not live if they did not dance at least 365 fandangos every year. At Santa Fe, as in Texas, and in all the provinces of Mexico, the women go to the fandangos, with their
rebozo
(mantilla), and arrayed in a light cool costume appropriate to the occasion; seated round the garden, or hall, where the dance is to take place, they smoke cigarettes and chat very loudly while awaiting the cavaliers' invitation.”
In Spanish the term
pueblo
means the people and their towns; and in New Mexico it is applied to the Christianized Indians and to their villages.
“When the country was first discovered, these Indians lived in comfortable houses, and cultivated the soil. Indeed, now they are the best horticulturists in New Mexico, furnishing most of the fruits and vegetables to be found in the markets. They also cultivate the grape, and have extensive herds of cattle, horses, etc. They are remarkable for sobriety, honesty, morality, and industry, and are much braver than the other classes of New Mexicans, and in the war with Mexico, fought with desperation compared to those in the south. At the time of the conquest, they must have been a very powerful people, numbering near one hundred villages, as their ruins would indicate. The population of their villages or
pueblos
, average about five hundred souls. They assert that they are the descendants of Montezuma. They profess the Catholic faith, but this, doubtless, reaches no farther than understanding its formalities, and at the same time, they all worship the sun.
Zuni.
An Indian Pueblo or Town.
They were only nominally under the jurisdiction of the Mexican government many features of their ancient customs, in both government and religion, being retained. Each pueblo was under the control of a
cacique
chosen by themselves, who, with his council, had charge of the interior police of the village. One of their regulations was to appoint a secret watch to suppress vice and disorder of every description, and especially to keep an eye over the young men and women of the village.
Their villages are built with adobes, and with great regularity; sometimes they have but one large house, with several stories, each story divided into apartments, in which the whole village reside. Instead of doors in front, they use trap-doors in the roofs of their houses, to which they mount up on a ladder, which is drawn up at night for greater security. Their dress consists of moccasins, short breeches, and woolen jackets or blankets; they generally wear their hair long. Bows and arrows and a lance, and sometimes a gun, constitute their weapons. They manufacture blankets, as well as other woolen stuffs, crockery ware, and coarse pottery. The dress of many is like the Mexican; but the majority retain their aboriginal costume.
Among the villages of the Pueblos Indians, was that of the Pecos tribe, twenty-five miles east of Santa Fe, which gradually dwindled away under the inroads of the Comanches and other causes, until about the year 1838, when having been reduced to only about a dozen souls of all ages, they abandoned the place.
Many tales are told of the singular habits of this ill-fated tribe, which must, no doubt, have tended to hasten its utter annihilation. A tradition was prevalent among them that Montezuma had kindled a holy fire, and enjoined their ancestors not to suffer it to be extinguished until he should return to deliver his people from the yoke of the Spaniards. In pursuance of these commands, a constant watch had been maintained for ages to prevent the fire from going out; and, as tradition further informed them, that Montezuma would appear with the sun, the deluded Indians were to be seen every clear morning upon the terraced roofs of their houses, attentively watching the appearance of the ‘king of light,’ in hopes of seeing him accompanied by their immortal sovereign. This consecrated fire was down in a subterranean vault, where it was kept silently smouldering under a covering of ashes, in the basin of a small altar. Some say that they never lost hope in the final coming of Montezuma until, by some accident or other, or a lack of a sufficiency of warriors to watch it, the fire became extinguished; and that it was this catastrophe that induced them to abandon their village. No other pueblo appears to have adopted this extraordinary superstition; like Pecos, however, they have all held Montezuma to be their perpetual sovereign. It would likewise appear that they all worship the sun; for it is asserted to be their regular practice to turn the face toward the east at sunrise.
The wild tribes who inhabit or extend their incursions into New Mexico, are the Navajoes, the Apaches, the Yutas, the Kiawas, and the Comanches. The Navajoes are estimated at about ten thousand, and reside in the main range of the Cordilleras, two hundred miles west of Santa Fe, on the Rio Colorado, near the region from whence historians say the Aztecs emigrated to Mexico. They are supposed to be the remnants of that justly celebrated nation of antiquity who remained in the north. Although living in rude wigwams, they excel all Indian nations in their manufactures. They are still distinguished for some exquisite styles of cotton textures, and display considerable ingenuity in embroidering with feathers the skins of animals. The serape Navajo (Navajo blanket) is of so dense a texture as to be frequently waterproof, and some of the finer qualities bring sixty dollars each, among the Mexicans. Notwithstanding their wandering habits, they cultivate the different grains and vegetables, and possess extensive and superior herds of horses, mules, cattle, sheep, and goats.
The Apaches are mainly west of the Rio del Norte, and are the most powerful and vagrant of the Indian tribes of northern Mexico, and number, it is estimated, fifteen thousand souls, of whom two thousand are warriors. They cultivate and manufacture nothing, and appear to depend entirely upon pillage for subsistence. The depredations of the Apaches have been of so long a duration that beyond the immediate vicinity of the towns, the whole country, from New Mexico to the borders of Durango, is almost entirely depopulated.”
m
The population of New Mexico, other than the savage tribes, is mostly east of the Rocky Mountains, in the valley of the Rio Grande and its tributaries. It is almost exclusively confined to towns and villages, the suburbs of which are generally farms, a mode of living indispensable for protection against the savages.
Taos
, north of Santa Fe, is a beautiful valley of nine miles in length, and includes several villages and settlements. The valley grows wheat of an excellent quality, produced on irrigated land.
La Gran Quivira
, about 100 miles south of Santa Fe, are ruins of an ancient town, which was supposed to have been reared for mining purposes. The style of architecture is superior to anything at present in New Mexico. To be seen are the remains of Catholic churches, and aqueducts leading to the mountains, eight or ten miles distant. Tradition says, that, in the general massacre of 1680, every soul save one perished.
El Placer
, 27 miles south of Santa Fe, is an important mine, from which, since its discovery in 1828, half a million of gold has been taken out.
Albuquerque
is in the most fertile locality of the Rio Grande, and although not as important a place as Santa Fe, it is more central. Including the neighboring rancheros, it has a population of 1,000 souls. “Albuqurque for a Mexican town, is tolerably well built. Its buildings, like those inhabited by Mexicans, are of a right parallelopipedon shape, constructed of adobes (blocks of sun dried mud), and arranged generally on the four sides of a rectangle, thus creating an interior court (
pateo
), upon which nearly every one of the apartments opens. There is generally but one exterior or street entrance; and this is generally quite wide and high, the usual width being about six feet, and the hight seven. They appear to be made thus wide, at least as far as I have been able to discover, to enable the burros (asses) and other animals to go through with their packs. They are generally strongly secured by double doors. There are two or three buildings in the town with extensive fronts and
portalles
(porches), which look, for this country, very well—one of them being the house, formerly occupied by Governor Armijo. There is a military post at this place, garrisoned by U. S. troops.”
Acoma
, in the same vicinity, is one of the most ancient and extraordinary of the Indian pueblos. “Acoma is situated on an isolated rock which rises perpendicularly to a hight of 360 feet above the plain, and appears like an island in the middle of a lake. The summit of this rock is perfectly horizontal, and its superficies is about sixty acres. To reach it you must climb over hillocks of sand, heaped up by the wind to a third of the hight, the two other thirds of the route are hewn in the rock in the shape of a spiral staircase. The town is composed of blocks, each of which contains sixty or seventy houses, and a large Catholic church, with two towers and very pretty spires. The houses are three stories high, and have windows only in the upper one; in construction, they are quite similar to those of the other pueblos of New Mexico. Acoma is in all probability the Acuco spoken of by the ancient Spanish historians, which, according to them, was situated between Cibola and Tiguex, and built at the top of perpendicular rocks, whose summits could only be reached by means of 300 steps hewn in the rock, at the end of which steps was a kind of ladder eighteen feet high, also formed by holes cut in the rock. Although this pueblo was deemed impregnable yet the inhabitants placed huge stones around it, that they might roll then down on any assailant who was bold enough to scale this extraordinary stronghold. Near the dwellings might be seen arable lands sufficient to grow the necessary quantity of maize for the wants of the population; also large cisterns to save the rain waters. The Acucos were called banditti in all the surrounding provinces, into which they made frequent excursions.”
Laguna
, a few miles north of Acoma, is another ancient Indian pueblo and contains about a thousand inhabitants, noted for their honesty, sobriety and industry. “It has the appearance of one of those old German cities of the banks of the Rhine perched on a mountain peak. The houses, with their graduated stories, seem piled one above the other, producing the effect of an immense amphitheater; the river bathes the foot of the eminence on which Laguna is built, and flows in tortuous windings through the plain.”
Zuni
, perhaps the most important of all the pueblos, is west of Laguna Its present population is about 2,000. “The houses are of the same style as those of the other Indian pueblos; their graduated stories are almost al festooned with long garlands of red pimentos, that dry in the sun. The town possesses a Catholic church thirty-three yards in length, by nine in width, it is built of
adobes
, and behind its sole altar is suspended a painting
Zuni Vieja, or Old Zuni, the ancient Cibola, stood in the immediate vicinity. The ruins are yet to be seen. They are in the center of a plateau, elevated more than 900 feet above the plains, to which access is gained only by climbing almost inaccessible rocks. It was only in 1694, that it became definitely conquered by the Spaniards.
ANTIQUITIES OF NEW MEXICO.
Much of New Mexico is as yet unexplored; but the various expeditions of the scientific corps of the U. S. army have, of late years, given us the unexpected information of the existence of antiquities in the heart of our continent, as surprising and worthy of curiosity as those in Central America. In the region north and east of the Gila, and east of the Rio Colorado, in a space of some few hundred square miles, the ruins of ancient walled cities to the number, it is estimated by an officer of the topographical corps of engineers, of 1,000, are found at this day. These show that the country, at some very remote and unknown era, perhaps thousands of years since, was densely populated, and by a race to a considerable degree civilized. The natives living in the pueblos of that region, can give no information respecting them. Their builders were far in advance of any people found when the country was conquered by the Spaniards, more than 300 years ago. Their masonry and carpentery show much skill. Beautiful and highly ornamented pottery also is found in the vicinity of these cities; but in every instance it is in fragments, not a single perfect utensil having ever been discovered. The immense amount of this broken pottery strewn around would indicate, at some time or other, a regular sacking of these places. The climate and soil must have changed since this mysterious race dwelt here; for it is now a barren, rainless region, incapable of supporting anything like the population these ruins indicate. The extreme dryness of the climate has, doubtless, preserved the woodwork to our time.
The journal of Lieut. James H. Simpson, of the corps of U. S. topographical engineers, of a military reconnoissance from Santa Fe to the Navajo country, in the year 1849, and published by government, first gave to the world detailed descriptions of some of these ruined cities. Others on a larger scale and more important have been found farther west, of which descriptions have not as yet been published. We derive the facts and illustrations given below from the work alluded to.
The command, consisting of 175 men under Col. J. M. Washington, left Santa Fe on the 16th of August. They passed southerly and westerly, and on the 26th came to the highest point of land dividing the tributaries of the Gulf of Mexico from those of the Pacific, when they commenced gradually descending the western slope, and reached the Rio Chaco, a tributary of the San Juan. Here, upon the Rio Chaco, were found a number of the ancient towns or pueblos, named respectively, Pueblo Pintado, Weje-gi, Una Vida,Aztec origin.
Ancient Pueblo.
The engraving shows Hungo Pavie,
i.e.
Crooked Nose, in its original condition.
* “Unwittingly the artist,” says Lieut. Simpson, “has fallen one story short of the number the ruins exhibited. In their restored state, four stories should appear.”
The largest was De Penasca Blanca, which in circuit was 1,700 feet, and the number of rooms on the first floor 112. It differed in its walls from the other pueblos: the stones composing them being of one uniform character; but in this there is a regular alternation of large and small stones, the effect of which is unique and beautiful. The first pueblo examined was Pintado. We annex Simpson's description:
GROUND PLAN
OF THE
Pueblo Hungo Pavie,
(CROOKED NOSE).
Cañon de Chaco.
“After partaking of some refreshments, I started off, with high expectations—my assistants, the Messrs. Kern, accompanying me—to examine the ruins of
Pueblo Pintado.
We found them to more than answer our expectations. Forming one structure, and built tabular pieces of hard, fine grained, compact gray sandstone (a material entirely unknown
In the outer face of the buildings there are no signs of mortar, the intervals between the beds being chinked with stones of the minutest thinness. The filling and backing are done in rubble masonry, the mortar presenting no indications of the presence of lime. The thickness of the main wall at base is within an inch or two of three feet; higher up, it is less—diminishing every story by retreating jogs on the inside, from bottom to top. Its elevation, at its present highest point, is between twenty-five and thirty feet, the series of floor beams indicating that there must have been originally at least three stories. The ground plan, including the court, in exterior development, is about 403 feet. On the ground floor, exclusive of the outbuildings, are fifty-four apartments, some of them as small as five feet square, and the largest about twelve by six feet. These rooms communicate with each other by very small doors, some of them as contracted as two and a half by two and a half feet; and in the case of the inner suite, the doors communicating with the interior court are as small as three and a half by two feet. The principal rooms or those most in use, were, on account of their having larger doors and windows, most probably those of the second story. The system of flooring seems to have been large transverse unhewn beams, six inches in diameter, laid transversely from wall to wall, and then a number of smaller ones, about three inches in diameter, laid longitudinally upon them. What was placed on these does not appear, but most probably it was brush, bark, or slabs, covered with a layer of mud mortar. The beams show no signs of the saw or axe; on the contrary, they appear to have been hacked off by means of some very imperfect instrument. On the west face of the structure, the windows which are only in the second story, are three feet two inches by two feet two
inches. On the north side, they are only in the second and third stories, and are as small as fourteen by fourteen inches. At different points about the premises were three circular apartments sunk in the ground, the walls being of masonry. These apartments the Pueblo Indians call
estuffas
, or places where the people held their political and religious meetings.
Simpson, in his description of the Pueblo Hungo Pavie, of which both ground plan and elevation are herein pictorially given, says:
These ruins show the same nicety in the details of their masonry as already described. The ground plan shows an extent of exterior development of eight hundred and seventy-two feet, and a number of rooms upon the ground floor equal to seventy-two. The structure shows the existence of but one circular
estuffa
, and this is placed in the body of the north portion of the building, midway from either extremity. This
estuffa
differs from the others we have seen, in having a number of interior counterforts. The main walls of the building are at base two and three quarter feet through, and at this time show a hight of about thirty feet. The ends of the floor beams, which are still visible, plainly showing that there was originally, at least, a vertical series of four floors, there must then also have been originally at least a series of four stories of rooms; and as the
debris
at the base of the walls is very great, it is reasonable to infer that there may have been even more. The floor beams, which are round, in transverse section, and eleven inches in diameter, as well as the windows, which are as small as twelve by thirteen inches, have been arranged horizontally, with great precision and regularity. Pottery, as usual, was found scattered about the premises.
The question now arises, as we have seen all the ruins in this quarter, what was the form of these buildings?—I mean as regards the continuity or non-continuity of its front and rear walls. Were these walls one plain surface from bottom to top, as in the United States,
The front or exterior walls were evidently one plain surface from bottom to top; because whenever we found them in their integrity, which we did for as many as four stories in hight, we always noticed them to be uninterruptedly plain.
The rear walls, however, were, in no instance that I recollect of, found to extend higher than the commencement of the second story; and the partition walls were. if my memory is not at fault, correspondingly steplike in their respective altitudes. The idea, then, at once unfolds itself, that in elevation the inner wall must have been a series of retreating surfaces, or, what would make this necessary, each story on the inner or court side must have been terraced. This idea also gathers strength from the fact that we saw no indications of any internal mode of ascent from story to story, and therefore that some exterior mode must have been resorted to —such as, probably, ladders, which the terrace form of the several stories would render very convenient. Again, the terrace form of the stories would best conduce to light and ventilation for the interior ranges of apartments. The idea then, which Mr. R. H. Kern was the first to suggest—that these pueblos were terraced on their inner or court side—is not without strong grounds of probability; and it is in consonance with this idea that, in his
restoration
of the
Pueblo Hungo Pavie
, he has given it the form exhibited in the drawing.
Canon of Chelly.
About 500 feet deep.
Ruins of an Ancient Pueblo.
In the Canon of Chelly.
It is a curious fact, that in no single instance did we find in these ruins either a chimney or a fireplace, unless, indeed, the recesses described as existing in some of the rooms were used as fireplaces, which their slight hight, as well as deprivation of chimney flues, would scarcely authorize. Neither were there any indications of the use of iron about the premises.”
A few days later the command came to the renowned Canon of Chelly. This gorge has long had a distinguished reputation among the natives of this region, from its great depth and inpregnability. It is inhabited by the Navajoes, who, although they possess the skill to manufacture one of the most beautiful kind of blankets in the world, possess no better habitations than the conical pole, brush and mud lodge. This was explored for a distance of over nine miles; and the further they ascended it the greater was the altitude of the inclosing walls: at their furthest point of progress it was 502 feet high, and the average width 600 feet. The total length or the canon was judged to be about 25 miles. In ascending it they saw some fine caves here and there; also small habitations made up of overhanging rock, and artificial walls laid in stone and mortar-the latter forming the front portion of the dwelling. Some four miles from the mouth, they came to the ruins of a small pueblo, like those already described. It stood on the shelf of the left hand wall, about 50 feet up from the bottom, and the wall being very nearly perpendicular, it could only be approached by ladders. Seven miles from the mouth they fell in with the ruins shown in the engraving, with the stupendous rocks in rear and overhanging them.
“These ruins are on the left or north side of the canon, a portion of them being situated at the foot of the escarpment wall, and the other portion upon a shelf in
In speaking of this canon, Simpson says: “What appears to be singular, the sides of the lateral walls are not only as vertical as natural walls can well be conceived to be, but they are perfectly free from a talus of debris, the usual concomitant of rocks of this description. Does not this point to a crack or natural fissure as having given origin to the canon, rather than to aqueous agents, which, at least at the present period, show an utter inadequacy as a producing cause?”
Although the canon of Chelly was, at the time, considered a great curiosity, later explorers in the wild waste country between the Rocky Mountains and California have found numerous other of these fissures, to which this can bear no comparison. Some of them are entirely inaccessible, without outlet or inlet, deep, gloomy cracks, descending far down into the earth, lower than the bottom of the Pacific Ocean, bounded by forbidding, perpendicular walls, at the base of which the foot of man has never penetrated. Others form the valleys of streams, which, as one stands on their verge, are seen winding their serpentine course down in a gorge thousands of feet below. The canon of the Rio Colorado is of this character: Lieut. Ives, in his explorations ascertained it to be about 11,000 feet, or more than two miles in depth.
About 200 miles westerly from Santa Fe, and near the town of Zuni, the command came to a stupendous mass of rock, about 250 feet in hight, and strikingly peculiar from its massive character, and the Egyptian style of its natural buttresses and domes. “Skirting this stupendous mass of rock,” states Simpson, “on its left or north side, for about a mile, the guide, just as we had reached its eastern terminus, was noticed to leave us, and ascend a low mound or rampart at its base, the better, as it appeared, to scan the face of the rock, which he had scarcely reached before he cried out to us to come up. We immediately went up, and, sure enough, here were inscriptions, and some of them very beautiful; and, although, with those which we afterward examined on the south face of the rock, there could not be said to be half an acre of them, yet the hyperbole was not near so extravagant as I was prepared to find it. The fact then being certain that here were indeed inscriptions of interest, if not of value, one of them dating as far back as 1606, all of them very ancient, and several of them very deeply as well as beautifully engraven, I gave directions for a halt—Bird at once proceeding to get up a meal, and Mr. Kern and myself to the work of making fac similes of the inscriptions.
We copy a few of the inscriptions from Simpson, to present an idea of their general character. The engraving is made from one in the work of Domenech:
“Bartolome Narrso, Governor and Captain General of the Provinces of New Mexico, for our Lord the King, passed by this place, on his return from the Pueblo of Zuni, on the 29th of July, of the year 1620, and put them in peace, at their petition, asking the favor to become subjects of his majesty, and anew they gave their obedience; all which they did with free consent, knowing it prudent, as well as very Christian (a word or two effaced), to so distinguished and gallant a soldier, indomitable and famed; we love” (the remainder effaced.)
“By this place passed Second Lieutenant Joseph de Payba Basconzelos, in the year in which the council of the kingdom bore the cost, on the 18th of February, in the year 1726.”
“Pero Vacu (possibly intended for vaca—cow) ye Jarde.”
“Alma.”
“Leo.”
“Captain Jude Vubarri, in the year of our Lord I,” (probably meaning 1701. The hieroglyphics, excepting what appears to designate a buffalo, not decipherable.)
Inscription Rock, near the Pueblo of Zuni.
On the hights above the inscription are the ruins of in ancient pueblo, similar to the others described, though inferior in the style of masonry,
Mr. Simpson was not enamored with New Mexico. In his journal he states that he had not seen a rich, well timbered, and sufficiently watered country since he had left the confines of the states on the borders of the Mississippi valley. He makes these remarks upon this part of New Mexico. The portion farther west, to the California line, according to other observers, is no more alluring. Says he:
“The idea I pertinaciously adhered to, before ever having seen this country, was, that, beside partaking of the bold characteristics of the primary formations, rocks confusedly piled upon rocks, deep glens, an occasional cascade, green fertile valleys—the usual accompaniments of such characteristics with us in the states— it was also, like the country of the states, generally fertile, and covered with verdure. But never did I have, nor do I believe anybody can have, a full appreciation of the almost universal barrenness which pervades this country, until they come out, as I did, to ‘search the land,’ and behold with their own eyes its general
Arizona
comprises a long, narrow strip of territory, south of the Gila River, extending from the Rio Grande on the east to the Rio Colorado on the west, just above its entrance into the Gulf of California. It was purchased, in 1854, of Mexico, from the northern part of the state of Sonora, for ten millions of dollars. It was for sometime styled the Gadsden Purchase, out of compliment to General Gadsden, the American minister who negotiated the treaty: it is attached by congress to the Territory of New Mexico. Arizona is about 500 miles long, with a width ranging from 20 to 130 miles, and comprising 31,000 square miles. It is separated from Texas by the Rio Grande; from Lower California by the Rio Colorado; and on the south of it lie the Mexican states of Chihuahua and Sonora.
When it was purchased of Mexico, there was scarcely any inhabitants, excepting a few scattered Mexicans in the Mesilla valley, on the Rio Grande, and at the old town of Tucson, in the center of the territory. The marauding Apache Indians had gradually extirpated almost every trace of civilization in what was once an inhabited Mexican province.
* The following extract from the report of Col. Chas. D. Poston, agent of the Sonora Exploring and Mining Company, under date of Jan. 31,1857, will give a fair idea of the condition of the country at the period when it came into the possession of our people: “It may not be amiss, in these desultory remarks, to note the improvement in Tubac and the adjacent country since our arrival. When we forced our wagons here, over the undergrowth on the highway, in September last (1856), no human being was present to greet our coming, and desolation overshadowed the scene. It was like entering the lost city of Pompeii. The atmosphere was loaded with the malaria of a rank vegetation, the under-growth in the bottom served as a lurking place for the deadly Apache, and the ravens in the old church window croaked a surly welcome. Now the highroads are alive with trains and people. Commerce, agriculture, and mining are resuming their wonted prosperity undel the enterprise, intelligence, and industry of our people. The former citizens of Tubac have returned to the occupation of their houses, set to work vigorously upon their milpas, and are loud in their praises of American liberty and freedom.”
“Much interesting information upon the early history of this comparatively little known part of the United States, was obtained from the archives of the Mexican government, by Capt. C. P. Stone, late of the U. S. army. It appears that as early as 1687, a Catholic missionary from the province of Sonora, which, in its southern portion, bore already the impress of Spanish civilization, descended the valley of Santa Cruz River to the Gila, which he
The sites of various villages, ranches, and missions, as indicated on this map, were principally in the valleys of the San Pedro, Santa Cruz, and on the Mimbres. “The missions and settlements were repeatedly destroyed by the Apaches, and the priests and settlers massacred or driven off. The Indians, at length thoroughly aroused by the cruelties of the Spaniards, by whom they were deprived of their liberty, forced to labor in the silver mines with inadequate food, and barbarously treated, finally rose, joined with the tribes who had never been subdued, and gradually drove out or massacred their oppressors. Civilization disappeared before their devastating career, and in its place we now find, with few exceptions, only ruins and decay, fields deserted, and mines abandoned. The mission of San Xavier del Bac, and the old towns of Tucson and Tubac, are the most prominent of these remains. The mission of San Xavier del Bac is a grand old structure, which, from its elegant masonry and tasteful ornaments, must have been erected in times of great prosperity. From 1757 down to 1820, the Spaniards and Mexicans continued to work many valuable mines near Barbacora, and the ancient records and notes mention many silver mines most of which contain a percentage of gold. The most celebrated modern localities are Arivaca (also anciently famous as
Aribac
), Sopori, the Arizona Mountains, the Santa Rita range, the Cerro Colorado, the entire vicinity of Tubac, the Del Ajo, or Arizona copper mine, the Gadsonia copper mine, and the Gila River copper mines. As late as 1820, the
Mina Cobre de la Plata
(silver and copper mines), near Fort Webster, north of the Gila, were worked to great advantage; and so rich was the ore that it paid for transportation on mule-back, more than a thousand miles, to the city of Mexico.
The silver mining region of Arizona is, in fact, the north-western extension of the great silver region of Mexico. The mountain ranges are the prolongations of those which southward in Sonora, Chihuahua, and Durango, have yielded silver by millions for centuries past. The general direction of the mountains and the veins, is north-west and south-east, and there are numerous parallel chains or ranges which form long and narrow valleys in the same direction. Like most mineral regions, Arizona is of small value for agriculture, possessing in comparison with its extent but little arable land, and in most parts is nearly destitute of water, and desert-like. Some of this forbidding and arid surface would, however, prove fertile if irrigated.”
The population of Arizona, aside from the Indians, amounted in 1860 to but a few thousand souls. In the whole territory, persons of the Anglo-Saxon race, aside from the U. S. soldiers in garrison, numbered, at the outside, but a few hundred souls; the remainder of the inhabitants consisted of Mexicans, mostly of the peon class. The Pimos Indians live in villages on the Gila River, in the north-western part of the country, and are a friendly, inoffensive race, who raise corn and wheat, and supply emigrants who traverse the southern route to California. The Apaches are a wild, thieving tribe,
The southern boundary of Arizona was so run as to exclude any part of the Gulf of California from American jurisdiction, so that she has not there a single seaport. The nearest seaport is Lobos, in Sonora, on the gulf 175 miles from Tubac, and over an easy road. One of the best ports on the Pacific coast is Guymas, in south-western Sonora, 375 miles from Tubac. The Mexican governor of Sonora, Pesquiera, has, lately, granted our countrymen the right of free transit across his state, which will be of incalculable benefit to the development of the mining interests of Arizona, in furnishing supplies.
Church at Tucson.
On San Antonio's Day, 1860.
Tucson
, the principal town, is a miserable collection of adobe houses, in the heart of Arizona, in the valley of the Santa Cruz. It contains about 700 inhabitants, mostly Mexicans of the common class. The engraving shows the church of the place, an adobe or sun burned brick structure; it is from a drawing in outline, taken on San Antonio's day, in 1860. Among the figures are one or two of the wild Apache Indians, and numerous females, the Mexican women of the place being the principal worshipers. On the outside stands a woman ringing a bell, which, with the whole scene, engraving inclusive, is quite primitive.
Tucson is on the line of the great semi-weekly overland mail route, between St. Louis and San Francisco, distant from the first 1770, and from the latter 1074 miles. This route is traversed in 23 days. After passing through Missouri and Arkansas, it goes through the Indian Territory, crosses the desert called the
Staked Plain
, from the stakes which mark the road, enters Arizona on the east, and then after winding through it, leaves it on the north-west angle, and enters California at Fort Yuma, opposite Colorado City.
The overland mail takes this route, because on the line of lat. 32° there are fewer mountain ridges to be overcome, and the passes of the Rocky Mountains are lower and more easily surmounted than any other across the continent. The grass is good the whole year, being in the dry season cured to hay, and the road is free from the snows which obstruct the more northern routes. The line from Fort Smith, on the western border of Arkansas, to Fort Yuma, at the south-eastern angle of California is an unsurpassed natural
Annexed we give a view of the mail station at Dragoon Springs, from a sketch by H. C. Grosvenor, Esq., of Tubac, manager of the Santa Rita mines. It is one of the stations of the great overland mail route from St. Louis to California, and is a fair specimen of the kind of structures built by the Butterfield Company along this great route across the continent.
This station, or
corral
, is 85 miles east of Tucson. It is a rectangular inclosure, protected by a stone wall eight feet high. One third of the space is occupied by the storehouses and the sleeping apartment of the station master. These structures are covered by thatched roofs. The mules are kept in the other part, ready for change on the arrival of the mail. A heavy wooden gate defends the entrance. The two graves in the foreground are mementos of a tragedy that occurred on the night of September 8, 1858. Rude wooden slabs at their head bear brief inscriptions.
Dragoon Springs.
An Overland Mail Station.
The station was in charge of Silas St. John, a young man of 24 years of age, a native of New York city. His guard consisted of three Mexicans, Guadaloupe, Bonifacio, and Pablo; and three Americans, James Burr, of Watertown, New York, James Laing, of Kentucky, and Preston Cunningham, of California. On the night in question, one of the Mexicans took his turn on the watch, and all the Americans were sleeping—Burr on a hillock on the outside, Cunningham and Laing in the storeroom next to the apartment of St. John, when all three of the Mexicans put in operation their plot to murder the others. Burr was instantly killed, by a blow from a hammer, on the outside, by Pablo, while Bonifacio and Guadaloupe rushed in upon Cunningham and Laing, and mortally wounded them, as they lay asleep, with axes. St. John, aroused by the melee, was then attacked by the assassins, with their axes, when he made a desperate defense. One blow struck him in the hip, and a second from Bonifacio he warded off and received on his left arm, which was instantly disabled; but he was fortunately enabled to knock the Mexican down with a blow of his fist before he could repeat it. He then retreated, still warding off the blows, to the head of his mattress for his gun, when the two assassins backed out; but hearing the gun fall, they judged that he was unable to use it, and returned to the assault accompanied by Pablo, who had killed Burr. St. John met them with a revolver and fired, when they all fled. The shot struck Pablo, and his bones were found some days after picked by the wolves.
St. John took up a position whence he could see around the
corral
, and remained there until daylight, when he fell over from loss of blood. His left arm was broken and cut through, excepting only the flesh which covered the main artery. He was alone all the next day, which was Thursday. Cunningham died twenty-four hours after receiving the wound. Laing staggered about, hardly sensible, the brain oozing from his skull, and on the sixth day he died.
The mules were suffering for food and water, and several had broken loose. St. John crept a distance of 15 feet and opened the gate to let them out, and returned
With little hope of living, St. John succeeded in writing an account of the murder in a small book, for the information of the mail party that was due the succeeding Monday. Fortunately it arrived on Sunday, the day previous to the time, when an express was forthwith sent to Fort Buchanan for Dr. Irwin. On his arrival, St. John had lain nine days in his blood. He amputated his arm at the shoulder joint, with, however, no hope of saving his life. The maggots having consumed the mortified flesh, and prevented the more rapid spread of putrefaction, he eventually recovered and received from government the appointment of Indian agent for the Mariposa Indians. Such is the history of one of the numberless tragedies that mark life on the frontiers.
A similar tragedy ensued in the summer of 1860, at the San Pedro silver mine, some 50 miles west of here. Three white men were in charge, Professor Moss, metallurgist, and Mr. Williams, storekeeper, both from the city of St. Louis, and Mr. Brunckow, a German mining engineer. The Mexican laborers conspired and separately murdered all three, then robbed the store of the goods, and escaped over the Mexican line before it was discovered. Mr. Williams was killed in the store, Prof. Moss a few rods distant, and Mr. Brunckow in the mine, the latter being speared in the back. Brunckow, a man of singularly confiding disposition, having been in the country several years, selected these
peons
because they had previously worked under him, and he supposed they were personally attached to him. The result was that he lost his life by the treachery of a people that are utterly destitute of a single moral principle. So vile are they that the white men in charge of mines here, not only go armed, but when alone, avoid allowing a peon to walk immediately behind them, for fear of assassination.
Tubac
, 52 miles south of Tucson, is the business center of the silver mining district of Arizona, and contains a few hundred souls. The principal mines worked in its vicinity are the Heintzelman, and those of the Santa Rita Company. With the pecuniary success of these mines, appears to be connected the immediate progress of the territory, as, aside from its mines, it has no resources; but in these Arizona is to become a great field of American enterprise, whenever our people overcome the obstacles incident to founding a new, untried industry in a country so distant from supplies as is this.
When our pioneers poured in upon the gold placers of California, the intrepid gold hunter could, alone and single handed, work his way to wealth, with a jack-knife and tin-pan; and at the end of a day's labor, tie up the avails in a rag, place it under his pillow, and then dream pleasantly of wife, and children, and home, far away on the other side of the continent.
Silver mining is a different business. The eager novice might collect his tuns of silver ore; and then would come the tantalizing discovery, it was labor lost. To extract the silver from its ores, is often one of the most difficult of all chemical processes, requiring practice, with a peculiar aptness for metallurgy, so diversified and intricate are the combinations of this metal with other minerals. No college professor, however fine a metallurgist he might be, could successfully manage the
reduction works
of a silver mine; Americans, until they learn the art, and “improve upon it,” as is their national bent, will be compelled to procure their talent of this kind from those bred from youth to this branch, in Mexico and Germany. Aside from this difficulty, enormous outlays are required to start and work a silver mine: this can generally only be obtained by associated capital. With this comes
91
Reduction Works of the Heintzelman Silver Mine.
The engraving is from a drawing by H. C. Grosvenor. This establishment is on the famous Arivaca Rancho. The Reduction Works are in front, where the ore is reduced to silver by the German (Freyburg) amalgamation barrel process. On the extreme right of the inclosure is the corral for the mules. In the rear is seen the officers' quarters and store houses; on the left and also in the rear of the store-houses are the huts of the Mexican laborers or peons, of whom here and in the mine several hundred are employed. The buildings are all adobes.
Such are the enormous returns of successful silver mines, that capital and enterprise have always been ready to embark in the development of even veins of moderate promise. In Mexico, where silver mining has been, for over two hundred years, the great staple business of the country, the most enormous fortunes have been realized in working mines. The famous Real Del Monte, near the city of Mexico, is now 1,500 feet deep, and yielded in 1857, $3,750,000 of silver from ore which averaged $56 per tun. The Biscaina vein, in the 12 years immediately succeeding 1762, in which the adit of Moran was completed, yielded to its owner, Tereros, a clear profit of $6,000,000. The produce of Catorce, taking the average of the five years from 1800 to 1804, was $2,854,000. Santa Eulalia, near Chihuahua, from 1705 to 1737, yielded $55,959,750, or an average of $1,748,742 per annum. These and numerous other instances of successful mining, as published in Ward's History of Mexico, show silver mining to be a business of great vicissitudes, involving large expenditures, with a prospect of gains correspondingly large. The
By many, and especially the Mexicans, the Gadsden Purchase is regarded as the richest portion of the continent, for mines of silver, copper and lead. Silver ore has already been reduced there which yielded, in large quantities, $1,000 to the tun. The average of the Heintzelman mine has been $250, although much of the ore taken from it yielded from $1,000 to $5,000 per tun, and some at the rate of over $20,000.
* A vast difference is to be observed between rich ore and a rich mine. A poor mine often yields specimens of rich ore, which through the ounce assay, serves but to delude. The true test of the value of a silver mine is the quantity of the ore, and the average yield of the ore in bulk after the establishment of reduction works.
The copper mines worked on the Mimbres River, yield large quantities of ore which is 95 per cent. copper, while the lead mines of the Santa Rita and Santa Cruz Mountains, are really inexhaustible. With these mineral treasures, placed by nature for the use of man, it is not at all probable that Arizona will long remain in its present condition. When once the mining enterprises already begun shall have demonstrated, either in the hands of their present proprietors or some others, that the precious metals not only exist there, but may become profitable, a new impetus will be given to this kind of industry, and the silver country of Arizona will become as widely known as the golden fields of California.
Various modes are practiced of reducing silver from its ores. 1. The
Furnace.
2. The Mexican or patio (floor) amalgamation, with quicksilver 3. The caze (or kettle) amalgamation. 4. The Freyberg or German barrel amalgamation. 5. Augustin's method, by salt, without mercury. 6. Ziervogel's method, with salt or mercury, These modes can not be indiscriminately applied. The character of the ores, climate, and other circumstances will alone determine it. If the ore of a mine, in its mineralogical consituents, is not adapted to the mode of operation to which the operator is bred, he is generally powerless to reduce it. One experienced in smelting ores, can not reduce those which are adapted to “the patio;” or one accustomed to “the patio,” can not reduce by the German barrel, or by the Augustin process, and
vice versa.
The engraving shows the Reduction Works of the Heintzelman mine. The ore of this rich mine is reduced by the barrel amalgamation process. The mine is worked on a lease from the Sonora Mining Company, by Chas. D. Poston, Esq., its discoverer, and the American pioneer of silver mining in Arizona. To the close of 1860, silver to the amount of about $100,000 had been obtained from this mine alone, and with inefficient works.
The Santa Rita Mining Company are working mines in the Santa Rita Mountains, about 12 miles east of Tubac. H. C. Grosvenor is the manager, and Raphael Pumpelly, an American, educated in the mining schools of Germany, metallurgist.
The company first commenced operations in an old deserted mine, called the Salero, or Salt-cellar mine, which took its name from the following incident in its early history: “When the Bishop of Tumacacori, a mission three miles south of Tubac, came to take charge of this diocese, he complained much of the hardships he had to undergo in this northern province compared with the luscious fare and rich viands of his former residence at the south, and one day at table said he had not even a salt cellar to hold his salt. One of his zealous parishioners said, ‘Wait until next Sunday and I will bring you one.’ He immediately took to the mountains, and fashioned a rude salero from the silver mine in the Santa Rita Mountains, which in due time graced the bishop's table, and gave its name to the mine.”
This mine is mentioned by Lieut. Hardy, in his account of his travels in Sonora, as being near Tubac, and having been once very famous for its riches. The Santa
To the north of these mines, and in the valley of the Gila River, is the Maricopa copper mine, discovered by Col. A. B. Gray. It is a heavy vein of the gray sulphuret of copper. West of Tubac, and distant from it nearly 100 miles, is the Ajo copper mine, the ore of which yields 71 per cent. of copper. In the valley of the Mimbres River are the famous Santa Rita del Cobre mines, which yield almost pure copper. The ores of these mines are transported in wagons 900 miles to Fort Lavaca, in Texas, and thence by vessel to New York, where they sell at 22 cents per lb. Near these are the gold placers of the Pimos Altos and the Hanover copper mines.
The laborers in the mines of Arizona are
peons
from the adjacent Mexican state of Sonora, and bred to mining there. Any quantity can be obtained from thence for about $10 per month, and coarse rations added, a compensation so trivial that
slave labor
can not be profitably brought in competition at the present price of slaves. They work in the mines in nearly a nude state. No people are more degraded or treacherous, and the whites in charge are under the necessity of going constantly armed. They are tasked and prove to be efficient laborers, though not equal to the miners of Cornwall and Freyberg.
The
Mesilla Valley
is noted as being the richest spot in Arizona. It is situated on the west bank of the Rio Grande, about 50 miles north of El Paso. In extent it is about 20 miles in length, from north to south, and 10 miles in width, from east to west. The mountain ridge, which lines the river, here stretches off to the west, like the elevated seats of an amphitheater, leaving a broad, fertile plain between its rocky steeps and the river bank, almost entirely level, and with a soil of surpassing richness. The waters of the Rio Grande are taken in large acequias, or ditches, at the upper end of this valley, and from these again into smaller ones, till they are distributed over every portion of this beautiful plain, dividing it into rectangular fields, where corn and wheat are raised in great luxuriance. Viewed from the mountain peaks, which tower in majesty above it, this valley resembles one grand and magnificent garden—the acequias spreading, like a net of silvery threads, over the whole, and adobe houses of the inhabitants dotted here and there in the landscape.
La Mesilla
, the principal town, is a place of considerable trade, being the purchasing market for the grain of the valley and the adjacent Mexican state of Chihuahua. At
La Cruces
, four miles to the east, on the east bank of the Rio Grande, is the United States custom house, and some 12 miles to the east of the latter, in the Organ Mountains, is the noted
Stephenson silver mine
, worked by a New York company.
Colorado City
is the name of a town laid out at the north-west angle of Arizona, at the junction of the Colorado and Gila Rivers, and accessible to small steamers from the Gulf of California. It is probably the most arid point on our continent, the annual amount of rain, some years, not exceeding 3½ inches. A dreary, desert, waterless country intervenes between it and the settled parts of both California and Arizona.
El Paso
is a place of note on the border of Arizona on the Mexican side of the Rio Grande, at the north-eastern angle of the state of Chihuahua. The town itself is insignificant, but in the valley in its vicinity is a long line of Mexican settlements. The overland mail route passes opposite here, through the little settlement of
Franklin
, on the American side of the river.
Utah
derives its name from that of a native Indian tribe, the Pah-Utahs. It formed originally a part of the Mexican territory of Upper California, and was ceded to the United States by the treaty with Mexico, at the close of the Mexican war. In 1850 it was erected into a territory by Congress.
“A large part of Utah is of volcanic origin. It is supposed, from certain traditions and remains, to have been, many hundred years ago, the residence of the Aztec nation—that they were driven south by the volcanic eruptions which changed the face of the whole country. Eventually, they became the possessors of Mexico, where, after attaining great proficiency in the arts of life, they were finally overthrown by the Spaniards at the time of the conquest.
Utah was not probably visited by civilized man until within the present century. There were Catholic missionaries who may have just touched its California border, and the trappers and hunters employed by the fur companies. The first establishment in Utah was made by William H. Ashley, a Missouri fur-trader. In 1824, he organized an expedition which passed up the valley of the Platte River, and through the cleft of the Rocky Mountains, since called
“The South Pass;
” and then advancing further west, he reached the Great Salt Lake, which lies embosomed among lofty mountains. About a hundred miles south-east of this, he discovered a smaller one, since known as “Ashley's Lake.” He there built a fort or trading post, in which be left about a hundred men. Two years afterward, a six-pound piece of artillery was drawn from Missouri to this fort, a distance of more than twelve hundred miles, and in 1828, many wagons, heavily laden, performed the same journey.
During the three years between 1824 and 1827, Ashley's men collected and sent to St. Louis, furs from that region of country to an amount, in value, of over $180,000. He then sold out all his interests to Messrs. Smith, Jackson, and Sublette. These energetic and determined men carried on for many years an extensive and profitable business, in the course of which they traversed a large part of southern Oregon, Utah, California, and New Mexico west of the mountains. Smith was murdered in the summer of 1829, by the Indians north-west of Utah Lake. Ashley's Fort was long since abandoned,
Unfortunately, these adventurous men knew nothing of science, and but little information was derived from them save vague reports which greatly
In his second expedition, made in 1843, he visited the
Great Salt Lake
, which appears upon old Spanish maps as Lake Timpanogos and Lake Tegaya. Four years after, in 1847, the Mormons emigrated to Utah, and commenced the first regular settlement by whites. It was then an isolated region, nominally under the government of Mexico. They expected to found a Mormon state here, and rest in quiet far from the abodes of civilized man; but the results of the Mexican war, the acquirement of the country by the United States, with the discovery of gold in California, brought them on the line of emigration across the continent, and more or less in conflict with the citizens and general government.
Utah extends from the 37th to the 42d degrees of north latitude, and lies between the 107th and 120th degrees of west longitude, having a breadth of 300, and an average length, east and west, of 600 miles, containing an area of about 180,000 square miles.
“The main geographical characteristic of Utah is, that anomalous feature in our continent, which is more Asiatic than American in its character, known as the Great Basin. It is about 500 miles long, east and west, by 275 in breadth, north and south, and occupies the greater part of the central and western portions of the territory. It is elevated near 5,000 feet above the level of the sea, and is shut in all around by mountains with its own system of lakes and rivers; and what is a striking feature, none of which have any connection with the ocean. The general character of the basin is that of a desert. It has never been fully explored, but so far as it has been, a portion of it is found to consist of arid and sterile plains, another of undulating table lands, and a third of elevated mountains, a few of whose summits are capped with perpetual snow. These range nearly north and south, and rise abruptly from a narrow base to a hight of from 2,000 to 5,000 feet. Between these ranges of mountains are the arid plains, which deserve and receive the name of desert. From the snow on their summits and the showers of summer originate small streams of water from five to fifty feet wide, which eventually lose themselves, some in lakes, some in the alluvial soil at their base, and some in dry plains. Among the most noted of these streams is Humboldt's or Mary's River, well remembered by every California emigrant, down which he pursues his course for three hundred miles, until it loses itself in the ground, at a place called St. Mary's Sink, where its waters are of a poisonous character.
The
Great Salt Lake
and the Utah Lake are in this basin, toward its eastern riin, and constitute its most interesting feature—one a saturated solution of common salt—the other fresh—the Utah about one hundred feet above the Salt Lake, which is itself about 4,200 above the level of the sea; they are connected by Utah River—or, as the Mormons call it, the Jordan—which is forty-eight miles in length. These lakes drain an area of from ten to twelve thousand square miles.
The Utah is about thirty-five miles long, and is remarkable for the numerous and bold streams which it receives, coming down from the mountains on the south-east, all fresh water; although a large formation of rock-salt, imbedded in red clay, is found within the area on the south-east, which it drains. The lake and its affluents afford large trout and other fish in great numbers, which constitute the food of the Utah Indians during the fishing season. The Great Salt Lake has a very irregular outline greatly extended at time of melting snows. It is about seventy miles in length; both lakes ranging north and south, in conformity to the range of the mountains, and is remarkable for its predominance of salt. The whole lake water seems thoroughly saturated with it, and every evaporation of the water leaves salt behind. The rocky shores of the islands are whitened by the spray, which leaves salt on everything it touches, and a covering like ice forms over the water which the waves throw among the rocks. The shores of the lake, in the dry season, when the waters recede, and especially on the south side, are whitened with incrustations of fine white salt; the shallow arms of the lake, at the same time under a
The Rio Colorado, with its branches, is about the only stream of note in Utah which is not within the Great Basin. The only valleys supposed to be inhabitable in the vast country in the eastern rim of the Great Basin and the Rocky Mountains, are the valleys of the Uintah and Green Rivers, branches of the Colorado, and whether even these are so, is extremely problematical. The country at the sources of this great river is incapable of supporting any population whatever.
The climate of Utah is milder and drier in general than it is in the same parallel on the Atlantic coast. The temperature in the Salt Lake Valley in the winter is very uniform, and the thermometer rarely descends to zero. There is but little rain in Utah, except on the mountains, from the 1st of May until the 1st of October; hence agriculture can only be carried on by irrigation.
In every portion of the territory where it has been attempted, artificial irriga. tion has been found to be indispensable; and it is confidently believed that no part of it, however fertile, will mature crops without it, except perhaps on some small patches on low bottoms. But limited portions, therefore, of oven the most fertile and warmest valleys, can ever be made available for agricultural purposes, and only such as are adjacent to streams and are well located for irrigation. Small valleys surrounded by high mountains, are the most abundantly supplied with water, the streams being fed by melting snows and summer showers.
The greater part of Utah is sterile and totally unfit for agriculture, and is uninhabited and uninhabitable, except by a few trappers and some roaming bands of Indians, who subsist chiefly upon game, fish, reptiles, and mountain crickets. The general sterility of the country is mainly owing to the want of rain during the summer months, and partly from its being elevated several thousand feet above the level of the sea.
The whole country is almost entirely destitute of timber. The little which there is may be found on the side of the high, rocky mountains, and in the deep mountain gorges, whence issue the streams. On the table lands, the gently undulating plains and the isolated hills, there is none. There are, however, small groves of cotton-wood and box-alder on the bottoms of some of the principal streams.
A species of artemisia, generally known by the name of wild sage, abounds in most parts of the country, where vegetation of any kind exists, but particularly where there is not warmth and moisture sufficient to produce grass.
The Great Salt Lake Valley is the largest known in the Great Basin, being about one hundred and twenty miles long, and from twenty to forty broad, but the Salt Lake occupies much of its northern portion. The surface of its center is level, ascending gently on either side toward the mountains. This valley is regarded as one of the healthiest portions of the globe; the air is very pure. Its altitude is forty-three hundred feet above the level of the sea; and some of the mountains on the east of the valley are more than a mile and a quarter high, and covered with perpetual snow; while in the valley the thermometer frequently rises above one hundred degrees.
By means of irrigation, the Mormon valleys are made productive. Wheat, rye, barley, buckwheat, oats and Indian corn are their agricultural products, and all the garden vegetables peculiar to the middle and western states are grown. Tobacco and sweet potatoes can be produced in limited quantities. The system of irrigation prevents rust or smut striking the crop, and renders it sure. The territory of the Mormons is a stock-raising country, and they are, to a great extent, a pastoral people. We find here that cereal anomaly, the bunch grass. It grows only on the bottoms of the streams, and on the table-lands of the warmest and most fertile valleys. It is of a kind peculiar to cold climates and elevated countries, and is, we presume, the same as the
grama
of New Mexico. In May, when the other grasses start, this fine plant dries upon its stalk, and becomes a light yellow straw, full of flavor and nourishment. It continues thus through what are the dry months
The population of Utah has been nearly stationary for many years, and is composed almost entirely of Mormons. Population of Utah, in 1860, was 50,000.
View in Salt Lake City.
The large block on the left contain the Church, Store, and Tithing Office, where one tenth of all the produce is contributed to the Church Fund. On the extreme right is the Harem of Brigham Young, the famous “Lion House,” so called from the statues of lions in front. The Wasatch Mountains are seen in the back ground.
Salt Lake City
is pleasantly situated on a gentle declivity near the base of a mountain, about two miles east of the Utah outlet, or the River Jordan, and about twenty-two miles south-east of the Salt Lake. “It is nearly on the same latitude with New York City, and is, by air lines, distant from New York 2,100 miles; from St. Louis, 1,200; from San Francisco, 550; and from Oregon City and Santa Fe, each 600. During five months of the year it is shut out from all communication with the north, east, or west, by mountains rendered impassable from snow. Through the town runs a beautiful brook of cool, limpid water, called City creek. The city is laid out regularly, on an extensive scale; the streets crossing each other at right angles, and being each eight rods wide. Each lot contains an acre and a quarter of ground, and each block or square eight lots. Within the city are four public squares. The city and all the farming lands are irrigated by streams of beautiful water, which flow from the adjacent mountains. These streams have been, with great labor and perseverance, led in every direction. In the city, they flow on each side of the different streets, and their waters are let upon the inhabitants' gardens at regular periods, so likewise upon the extensive fields of grain lying to the south. The greater part of the houses which
Hon. John Cradlebaugh, late assistant judge of the Territory of Utah, gives this sketch of the Mormons, their origin, doctrines, practices, and crimes:
Extent of Mormonism
—The Mormon people have possessed themselves of this country, and although their history has been but a brief one, yet their progress has been so great as to attract the attention of the world. Although they have not existed more than the third of a century, yet we find that they have been enabled to encompass the globe itself with missionaries. Although they have existed but a few years, we find them rising from a single family to be now what they call a great nation. They claim to be a nation independent of all other nations. They have set up a church government of their own, and they desire no other government to rule over them.
It becomes necessary to know what this Mormonism is, that has thus attracted these deluded people to that country, to seize this empire and to attempt to establish for themselves a government independent of the world.
Mormonism, in the view that I take of it, is a religious eccentricity, as well as one of the great monstrosities of the age. It is not the first, however, of the religious monstrosities and impositions that we have had. Other religious impositions have been invented by men expert in tricks. Knowledge and civilization go moving on at a slow pace, and yet make gradual progress; and every ray of light that is shed shows us the gross absurdity of these frauds in religion. The idols of wood and stone have fallen from the sacred places which they formerly occupied, to be trampled under the feet of their former worshipers, and the cunning devices of a more enlightened age have given way to a purer creed. The majority of the heathen practices of the dark ages have disappeared before an enlightened Christianity. But an epoch came when mankind were fast relapsing into a painful state of ignorance; and about that time arose that boldest and most successful of all imposters, Mohammed, who, incorporating old and cherished doctrines into a voluptuous creed, went abroad with his sword in one hand and the Koran in the other, conquering and to conquer. This was done when darkness reigned on the earth; but in this nineteenth century, favored as it is by the light of a true religion, distinguished as it is by its general knowledge, and refined as it is beyond all precedent and parallel, a religious imposture grosser than all its predecessors, is being successfully palmed off on mankind; not in the deserts of some unknown land; not in a secret corner of the earth; but in free America, where every man can worship God according to the dictates of his own conscience, and under his own vine and fig tree.
Mormon Doctrines.
—This grotesque, absurd, and monstrous system, thus openly paraded before the world, is Mormonism. It is a conglomeration of illy cemented creeds from other religions. It repudiates the celibacy imposed by the Catholic religion upon its priesthood, and takes instead the voluptuous imposition of the Mohammedan Church. It preaches openly that the more wives and children its men have in this world, the purer, and more influential and conspicuous they will be in the next; that his wives, his property, and his children will be restored to him, and even doubled to him at the resurrection. It adopts the use of prayers for the dead and baptism as parts of its creed. They claim to be favored with marvelous gifts, the power of speaking in tongues, of casting out devils, of curing the sick and healing the lame and the halt; they also claim to have a living prophet,
A Mormon Harem.
Origin.
—This wretched sect had its origin in an eccentricity of a man named Spaulding, who had failed as a preacher and as a shopkeeper, and who thought he would write an historical novel. He had a smattering of Biblical knowledge, and he chose for his subject “the history of the lost tribes of Israel.” The whole was supposed to be communicated by Indians, and the last of the series was named Mormon, representing that he had buried the book. It was a large, ponderous volume, dull, tedious and interminable, marked by ignorance and folly. Spaulding made many efforts to get it printed, but the work was so utterly flat, stupid and insipid, that no publisher would undertake to bring it before the world. Poor Spaulding at length went to his grave, and his manuscript remained a neglected roll in the possession of his widow.
But now arose Joe Smith, more ready to live by his wits than by the labor of his hands. This Smith early in life manifested a turn for pious frauds. He had been engaged in several wrestling matches with the devil, and had been conspicuous for his wonderful experiences in religion at certain revivals. He announced that he had dug up the book of Mormon, that taught the true religion, and this was none other but the poor Spaulding manuscript, which he had purloined from the house of the widow. In his unscrupulous hands the manuscript of Spaulding was designed to cause an august apostacy; he made it the basis of Mormonism.
Polygamy Introduced.
—Before the death of Smith, he had made polygamy a dogma of the Mormon creed, and made it known to a few of the leaders, and he and they proceeded to put it to practice. It was only after they had placed the desert and the Rocky Mountains between them and civilization that they confessed
Education and Habits.
—The little education the children get consists in preparing them for the reception of polygamy. To prepare the women for the reception of the revolting practice it is necessary to brutalize them by destroying their modesty. The sentiment of love is ridiculed, cavalier gallantry and attentions are laughed at, the emblematic devices of lovers and the winning kindness that with us they dote on are hooted at in Utah. The lesson they are taught, and that is inculcated above all others, is “increase and multiply,” in order that Zion may be filled. The young people are familiarized to indecent exposures of all kinds; the Mormons call their wives their cattle.
A man is not considered a good Mormon that does not uphold polygamy by precept and example, and he is a suspected Mormon that does not practice it. The higher the man is in the church the more wives he has. Brigham Young and Heber Kimball are supposed to have each between fifty and a hundred. The reverend Mormon bishops, apostles, and the presidents of states have as many as they desire, and it is a common thing to see these hoary-headed old Turks surrounded by a troop of robust young wives. The common people take as many as they can support, and it is not uncommon to see a house of two rooms inhabited by a man, his half-dozen of wives, and a proportionate number of children, like rabbits in a warren, and resembling very much the happy family that we read of—the prairie dog, the owl, and the rabbit. Incest is common. Sometimes the same man has a daughter and her mother for wives at once; some have as wives their own nieces, and Aaron Johnson, of Springville, one of the most influential men in his parts, has in his harem of twelve women no less than five of his brothers' daughters. One Watts, a Scotchman, who is one of the church reporters, is married to his own half-sister.
The ill-assorted children'the offspring of one father and many mothers—run about like so many wild animals. The first thing they do, after learning vulgarity, is to wear a leather belt with a butcher-knife stuck in it; and the next is to steal from the Gentiles; then to ride animals; and as soon as they can, “by hook or by crook,” get a horse, a pair of jingling Mexican spurs and a revolver, they are then Mormon cavaliers, and are fit to steal, rob, and murder emigrants. The women and girls are coarse, masculine and uneducated, and are mostly drafted from the lowest stages of society. It is but seldom you meet handsome or attractive women among them.
The foreign element largely predominates in Utah. The persons emigrating to the territory are generally from the mining, manufacturing and rural districts of England. The American portion of the Mormons are generally shrewder than the rest, and are chiefly from the New England states. Most of these men are no doubt fugitives from justice, and most of them are bankrupt in both fortune and character.
The three presidents of the church, or rather the president, Brigham Young, and his two council, Kimball and Grant, are all Americans; eleven of the twelve apostles are Americans. The foreigners are generally hewers of wood and the drawers of water for the church and its dignitaries. The church is everything. It is not only an ecclesiastical institution, but it is a political engine; it not only claims to control Mormons in their spiritual matters, but to dictate to them as to the disposition of their temporal affairs. The church, by its charter, can receive, hold or sell any amount of property; the charter provides for one trustee, and twelve assistant trustees, and Brigham Young is trustee, president of the church, prophet, seer, revelator, and, the commission of the United States to the contrary notwithstanding, he is the real governor of the territory. All Mormons are required to yield to him implicit obedience.
Each Mormon has to pay into the church one tenth part of all he produces, so that if a good Mormon sow bears ten pigs, one is a pious pig, because it belongs to the church. To collect these tithes officers have to be appointed, and to gather the results together a great central depot has to be maintained, and it is situated
The Angelic Host.
—Connected with the Mormon church is a band of men known as “the Danites,” or “the avenging angels.” This band is composed of the boldest of the Mormon ruffians. They are bound together by dreadful oaths; they are the executioners of the church, carrying out its vengeance against apostates and offenders against the church discipline; and all church enemies are dealt with by these men, generally in a secret and terrible manner. None but God, Brigham Young and themselves know the names of their victims, or the number.
Missions and Missionaries.
—The Mormon Church is recruited by means of missionaries yearly sent out in large numbers throughout the earth, to preach and propagate the Mormon religion. These missionaries are not selected, as are the missionaries of other sects, for their piety and devotion, or for their general fitness but as a punishment for some offense against the discipline of the church. The doctrine is that they are good enough to go into the world, for if they send good men they will not believe them, and on that account they send their bad men off as teachers and missionaries.
The missionaries are usually supported by voluntary contributions raised from the ignorant proselytes that they make. They picture Utah as a paradise, the Mormons as saints, and Brigham Young as their prophet; they promise their prophet will heal the sick, restore sight to the blind, and comfort to the afflicted; to the wealthy they promise wealth, and preferment is for the ambitious, while social standing is to be given to the degraded of both sexes, and polygamy is the paradise of all.
Receiving Proselytes.
—These missionaries, when sent on missions, if successful, are commanded to bring their proselytes with them to Zion. They are generally taken in large trains, and the arrival of one of these emigrant trains is hailed as a great event. Women that are young and pretty are greedily caught up by the apostles and dignitaries to swell their harems.
The Foreign Element.
—As I have said, the Mormons are chiefly foreigners; and rude, ignorant foreigners they are. They have not the first conceptions of their duties to our government, or of their duties as American citizens. They come to Zion, but they do not come to America. What do they care for our government or for our people? The first lesson taught them is to hate our people for their oppression, and to hate all other people for they are Gentiles. They are next sworn to support the church and the government established in Utah, and bear an eternal hostility against every other government on the face of the earth. Their next lesson is to revere Brigham Young as both the religious and political head and ruler. Their allegiance is alone due to him; he tells them they are separate and distinct from all other nations—made up from many nations; and he said but the other day, “we have been looked upon as a nation by our neighbors, independent of all other people on the face of the earth, and in their dealings they have dealt with us as such.” He tells them the present connection of Utah with the United States is only nominal, and it is barely permitted by God until things shall be fitted for the universal establishment of Mormon ascendency.
All these things considered, is it to be wondered at that the Mormons are disloyal to this government, and that treason should insolently rear its crest in Utah? The ignorant of the Mormons do not know what treason is. They obey their leaders, and these leaders are alone responsible for their acts. If Brigham Young, his counselors and bishops, and twelve apostles, and his generals had been seized and hung, you would never more have heard of treason in Utah; but while the Mormon captains were at the head of their troops, while the Danites were armed with their butcher knives, and while the prophet hurled anathemas against the president, the government, and the people of the United States, and while the Mormon people were in arms against the people of the United States, came a free pardon to all the traitors, big and little.
Three thousand of the federal troops were sent [in 1858] to Utah, and they have been kept there at a great expense to the government. The government has not
An Irrepressible Conflict.
—Attempts to administer the laws of the United States have been made by the three sets of the United States judges. These experiments have all proved to be failures. The concurrent testimony of all the judges is that the Federal constitution and laws can not be successfully administered. There is a complete repugnance and antagonism between our institutions and the Mormon institutions. The church, through its rulers, claims to supervise the spiritual and temporal relations of the people. Whether it be in the place of business, in the jury-box, on the witness stand, on the judge's bench, or in the legislative chair, the Mormon is bound to obey the heads of the church. If the constitution of the United States, or the organic law of the territory conflicts, the constitution is treated as a nullity; if the laws of the United States contravene the ordinances of Utah, the law is disregarded. The will of the prophet is the supreme law in Utah.
Mormon grand and petit juries, on being impanneled, would go through the forms of business, but do nothing, while murder and other felonies abounded. When warrants are issued for the parties accused, they can not be arrested, for the entire church and the whole community united in concealing and protecting the offender. Witnesses are prevented by church orders from appearing before the grand jury, or are forcibly detained. Grand juries refuse to find bills upon testimony the most conclusive, for most of the crimes have been committed by the order of the church; and to expose them would be to expose and punish the church and the functionaries of the church.
The most noted of all the atrocities committed by the Mormons was the
“Mountain Meadow Massacre.”
This event occurred in the autumn of 1857, when about 140 emigrants, inoffensive, peaceful men, women and children, on their way overland from Arkansas to California, were waylaid by the Danite band of Mormons and their Indian allies, and butchered in cold blood. Some of the little children were spared, and afterward recovered from the Mormons; and from their lips these particulars were gathered. A correspondent of Harpers' Weekly, for August 13, 1859, presents this narrative, which is substantially true, and otherwise indubitably corroborated:
“A train of Arkansas emigrants, with some few Missourians, said to number forty men, with their families, were on their way to California, through the Territory of Utah, and had reached a series of grassy valleys, by the Mormons called the Mountain Meadows, where they remained several days recruiting their animals. On the night of Sept. 9, not suspecting any danger, as usual they quietly retired to rest, little dreaming of the dreadful fate awaiting and soon to overtake them. On the morning of the 10th, as, with their wives and familes, they stood around their camp-fires passing the congratulations of the morning, they were suddenly fired upon from an ambush, and at the first discharge fifteen of the best men are said to have fallen dead or mortally wounded. To seek the shelter of their
corral
was but the work of a moment, but there they found but limited protection.
The encampment, which consisted of a number of tents and a
corral
of forty wagons and ambulances, lay on the west bank of, and eight or ten yards distant from a large spring in a deep ravine, running southward; another ravine, also, branching from this, and facing the camp on the south-west; overlooking them on the north-west, and within rifle-shot, rises a large mound commanding the
corral
, upon which parapets of stone, with loop-holes, have been built. Yet another ravine, larger and deeper, faces them on the east, which could be entered without exposure from the south and far end. Having crept into these shelters in the darkness of the night, the cowardly assailants fired upon their unsuspecting victims,
Surrounded by superior numbers, and by an unseen foe, we are told the little party stood a siege within the
corral
of five or seven days, sinking their wagon wheels in the ground, and during the darkness of night digging trenches, within which to shelter their wives and children. A large spring of cool water bubbled up from the sand a few yards from them, but deep down in the ravine, and so well protected that certain death marked the trail of all who dared approach it. The wounded were dying of thirst; the burning brow and parched lip marked the delirium of fever; they tossed from side to side with anguish; the sweet sound of the water, as it murmured along its pebbly bed, served but to highten their keenest suffering. But what was this to the pang of leaving to a cruel fate their helpless children! Some of the little ones, who though too young to remember in after years, tell us that they stood by their parents, and pulled the arrows from their bleeding wounds.
Long had the brave band held together; but the cries of the wounded sufferers must prevail. For the first time, they are (by four Mormons) offered their lives if they will lay down their arms, and gladly they avail themselves of the proffered mercy. Within a few hundred yards of the
corral
faith is broken. Disarmed and helpless, they are fallen upon and massacred in cold blood. The savages, who had been driven to the hills, are again called down to what was denominated the ‘job,’ which more than savage brutality had begun.
Women and children are now all that remain. Upon these, some of whom had been violated by the Mormon leaders, the savage expends his hoarded vengeance. By a Mormon who has now escaped the threats of the Church we are told that the helpless children clung around the knees of the savages, offering themselves as slaves; but with fiendish laughter at their cruel tortures, knives were thrust into their bodies, the scalp torn from their heads, and their throats cut from ear to ear.”
Beside Salt Lake City, the other principal Mormon settlements are
Fillmore City
, the capital,
Brownsville, Provo, Ogden, Manti, and Parovan.
Nevada
was formed into a territory in February, 1861, and was taken from Western Utah and the northern part of Eastern California. The eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada mountains, inclusive of the famous Carson Valley, is within it. Originally it was called Washoe, from Mt. Washoe, a peak over 9000 feet high in the vicinity of Virginia City.
The climate is most cold, disagreeable and forbidding. Lying along the eastern slopes of the Sierra Nevada range, the country has a very different climate from that of California. “The gigantic wall of the Sierra Nevada, on the California side, receives the hot winds that blow from the Pacific Ocean, and fall there in rain and snow, leaving the opposite or eastern declivity exposed to droughts and freezing blasts. Consequently you may find at the same season, in the same latitude, and at the same hight, mildness of climate, fertility, vegetable riches, in fact summer rejoicing on one side, while sterility, cold, and winter exist, with more or less intensity, on the opposite slope of these mountains, whose sublime beauty is perhaps unequaled throughout the world.”
With the exception of Carson Valley and a few small valleys, the whole country, for hundreds of miles, north, south and east, is a barren desert, and of no value but for its minerals. There is a great scarcity of wood and water. Aside from the timber on the slope of the Sierra Nevada range, the only wood of the country is a species of dwarf pine and a scrub cedar. If a full supply of coal should be found here, it would be invaluable for extracting the metals from their ores. Not only would vast quantities of gold and silver be produced, but also lead, iron, copper, bismuth, nickel, zinc, arsenic, copperas, and, in fact, almost every known mineral.
Carson Valley is pronounced by Mr. Greeley as one of the most beautiful he has ever seen. The part now cultivated is some 30 miles long by from 10 to 15 broad. He says:
This valley, originally a grand meadow, the home of the deer and the antelope, is nearly inclosed by high mountains, down which, especially from the north and west, come innumerable rivulets, leaping and dancing on their way to join the Carson. Easily arrested and controlled, because of the extreme shallowness of their beds, these streams have been made to irrigate a large portion of the upper
If the new gold mines in this valley shall ultimately justify their present promise, a very large demand for vegetable food will speedily spring up here, which can only be satisfied by domestic production. The vast deserts eastward can not meet it, the arable region about Salt Lake is at once too restricted and too distant; inland California is a dear country, and the transportation of bulky staples over the Sierra a costly operation. The time will ultimately come—it may or may not be in our day—when two or three great dams over the Carson will render the irrigation of these broad, arid plains on its banks perfectly feasible; and then this will be one of the most productive regions on earth. The vegetable food of one million people can easily be grown here, while their cattle may be reared and fed in the mountain vales north and south of this valley. And when the best works shall have been constructed, and all the lights of science and experience brought to bear on the subject, it will be found that nearly everything that contributes to human or brute sustenance can be grown actually cheaper by the aid of irrigation than without it. As yet, we know little or nothing of the application of water to land and crops, and our ignorance causes deplorable waste and blundering. Every year henceforth, will make us wiser on this head.
The principal towns and settlements of Nevada are
Virginia City, Carson City, Silver City, Johnstown, Gold Hill
, and
Genoa.
Virginia City is the most important point: in 1860, when only a year old, it contained over 1,000 houses, of stone, brick, wood and cloth; and the number of its inhabitants, including many families and visitors daily flocking in from California, was estimated at about 4,000. The distance of this region from San Francisco, in an air line, is about 200 miles.
The discovery of the Washoe silver mines took place in the summer of 1859:
“The Washoe silver mines were first discovered by Mr. Patrick McLaughlin, an ‘honest miner,’ who was working for gold in a gulch or ravine, and where he was making $100 a day to the hand. As he and his companions followed up the gulch it paid even better, until on arriving at a certain point it gave out altogether, and they struck a vein of pure sulphuret of silver, which they at first supposed to be coal, but observing that it was very heavy, they concluded it must be valuable, and sent one of their number to San Francisco with some of the black ore to ascertain its value. It was given to a Mr. Killaley, an old Mexican miner, to assay. Killaley took the ore home and assayed it—the result was so astounding that the old man got terribly excited. The next morning poor Killaley was found dead in his bed. He had long been in bad health, and the excitement killed him.
Immediate search was made for the original deposit, which resulted in the discovery of the famous Comstock lode, supposed to be the richest silver lode known. Where first found, this lode has no outcropping or other indication to denote its presence. The first assay of the rock taken from the lode when first struck gave a return of $265 of gold and silver, there being a larger proportion of gold than silver. Subsequent assays of ore taken from the vein, as it was sunk upon, showed a rapid increase in richness, until the enormous return was made of $7,000 to the tun-$4,000 in gold and $3,000 in silver. Still later assays of choice pieces of ore have given a return of $15,000 to the tun.
The first claim opened on the Comstock lode was that known as the Mexican or Spanish claim, and hundreds of tuns of rich ore have been taken from it and shipped to San Francisco to be smelted. The choice rock is sent, while thousands of tuns which will pay several hundred dollars to the tun is piled up at the mine to
The Ophir, the California, Dick-Sides, Gould and Curry, Choller, and Coppress Companies, all on the same lode, have struck the vein and are taking out ore. The Ophir, the Choller and the California Companies are also, with the Mexican, shipping ore to San Francisco. The cost of shipping is about $160 per tun.
Sometime after the discovery of the rich silver vein at Virginia, the rich gold diggings at Gold Hill, one mile and a half south from the Spanish claim, and nearly on the same range, were found. A man was out gunning, and happened to shoot a hare directly among the broken quartz, that has since proved to be the croppings of the richest gold quartz lode in the world. While stooping down to pick up the hare, his eye was attracted by the color or appearance of gold on the rocks under his feet. On a closer examination it was found to be no illusion, but the real stuff. This claim has since yielded, and is now yielding enormously. Other rich gold lodes were found in the vicinity of Gold Hill, and also still further south, about three miles, at a place then known as the Devil's Gate. That locality is now known by the better name of Silver City. During the winter of 1859–60, new lodes were discovered about seven miles east from Virginia, in what has since been called the Flowery Diggings. News of the new discoveries, as well as of the increasing richness of the mines that were first opened, spread from one end of California to the other; and though so often humbugged, and so recently by the Fraser River excitement, thousands had caught the silver fever, and on the opening of spring made a grand rush to the new El Dorado.”
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Colorado
was formed into a territory Feb. 18, 1861. It is bounded on the east by Kansas, north by Nebraska and Utah, on the west by Utah, and on the south by New Mexico and the Indian Territory. A small portion of this territory lies west of the Rocky Mountains. Colorado derives its name from the Colorado River, and its population from the discovery of gold in the vicinity of
Pike's Peak.
A great part of this territory lies upon the Rocky Mountains, with their foot hills and adjacent plains. Within it the Arkansas and Platte Rivers have their sources, and running easterly empty into the Mississippi; Green River and other affluents of the great Colorado of the West here also take their rise, and flowing westerly discharge their waters into the Pacific. Its mineral deposits are half way between the Mississippi and the Pacific, and about 1,000 miles from each, and in the same latitude with the rich mineral regions of Carson Valley. Within it are the three beautiful vales of the Rocky Mountains, known respectively as Middle, South and North Parks, while the noted Pike's Peak rises up grandly 10,600 feet above the level of the plains, and 18,600, or more than three and a half miles above the level of the sea. This mountain received its name from its discoverer, Capt. Z. M. Pike, while at the head of an exploring expedition sent out in 1806, in Jefferson's administration, to ascertain the sources of the Arkansas. He ascended to the summit, and was the first white man to gaze upon the magnificent panorama seen from that point. A visitor of our time thus relates his experience there:
“The summit is of an irregular, oblong shape, nearly level, embracing about sixty acres, and composed entirely of angular slabs and blocks coarse disintegrating granite. The fresh snow was two or three inches deep in the interstices among the rocks, but had nearly all melted from their surfaces.
The day was clear, and the view indescribably grand and impressive. To the eastward for a hundred miles, our eyes wandered over the dim, dreary prairies, spotted by the dark shadows of the clouds and the deeper green of the pineries, intersected by the faint gray lines of the roads, and emerald threads of timber, which mark the meandering of the streams, and banded on the far horizon with a girdle of gold. At our feet, below the now insignificant mountains up which we had toiled so wearily, was Colorado City, to the naked eye a confused city of Lilliputs, but through the glasses exhibiting its buildings in perfect distinctness, and beside one of them our own carriage with a man standing near it.
Further south swept the green timbers of the Fontaine qui Bouille, the Arkansas and the Huerfano, and then rose the blue Spanish peaks of New Mexico, a hundred miles away. Eight or ten miles from our stand-point, two little gems of lakes, nestled among the rugged mountains, revealing even the shadows of the rocks and pines in their transparent waters. Far beyond, a group of tiny lakelets glittered and sparkled in their dark surroundings like a cluster of stars.
View in Denver.
Cherry Creek is seen in front, Platte River in the middle distance, the Rocky Mountains in the background, and on the extreme left, at the distance of seventy miles, appears the snow-clad summit of Pike's Peak.
To the west, the South Park, 40 miles in length, the Bayou Salado, and other amphitheaters of rich floral beauty—gardens of nature amid the utter desolation of the mountains—were spread thousands of feet below us; and beyond, peak after peak, until the pure white wall of the Snowy Range merged into the infinite blue of the sky. Toward the north-east we could trace the timbers of the Platte, for more than seventy miles; but though the junction of Cherry creek, even to the unassisted eye, showed the exact location of Denver, our glasses did not enable us to detect the buildings.
These of course were only the more prominent features of the landscape. To the north, south and west the intervening expanse was one vast wilderness of mountains of diverse forms and mingling colors, with clouds of fleecy white sailing airily among their scarred and wrinkled summits. By walking a few hundred yards, from one slight elevation to another, we looked upon four territories of the Union—Kansas, Nebraska, Utah and New Mexico. Almost from the same standpoint we viewed regions watered by four of the great rivers of the continent—the Platte, Arkansas, Rio Grande, and Colorado—tributaries respectively of the Missouri, the Mississippi, the Gulf of Mexico and the Gulf of California.
A gorge upon the north side is still more gigantic than that on the south-east A colossal plowshare seems to have been driven fiercely down from the summit almost to the base, leaving a gaping furrow, visible even from Denver [seventy miles] and deep enough in itself to bury a mountain of considerable pretensions.”
Like mineral regions generally, this is deficient in agricultural resources; it may in time produce sufficient to support a considerable mining population. It is, however, more probable that it will become an important marketclimate
of the great plains and of the Rocky Mountain country is one of the healthiest in the world. The air is so dry and pure that fresh meat, cut in summer in strips, and in winter in quarters, and hung up out of doors, will cure so perfectly, without salting or smoking, that it may be carried to any quarter of the globe. The nights, even in summer, are cool and often cold.” The winters are long and terribly severe; snow falls early in the fall and late in the spring. The
Parks
in the Rocky Mountains are mild in winter, affording abundance of food for stock, and have always been favorite winter haunts for the Indians. “They are comparatively smooth, fertile spots—the principal ones from 30 to 60 miles in diameter—inclosed on all sides by high mountain walls: in the language of Fremont, “gems of rich floral beauty, shut up in the stern recesses of the mountains.”
Street in Denver in 1859.
The mountain districts are well watered. “The country abounds in timber, the prevailing variety being pine—immense forests of both the yellow and white being common. On the streams the white cherry and timber common to this latitude are found. Game is exceedingly abundant—the black-tailed deer, red deer, elk, antelope, mountain sheep, black bear, etc., being found in all portions of the country. It is a favorite resort for the Indians, as it affords them plenty of game when off their buffalo hunts, and where they get their lodge poles and equipments for their excursions for Buffalo on the plains.”
This country has only of late been a point of attraction to emigrants. The discovery of
gold
has been the talisman to draw multitudes of the hardy and enterprising of our countrymen to this Rocky Mountain land. It had long been believed by the hunters and trappers of the Rocky Mountains, that the existence of gold and silver, near the sources of the Arkansas and South Platte, was known to the Indians, and though search was made the exact spot could never be ascertained. “In 1835, a hunter, named Eustace Carriere, became separated from his companions, and wandered about for some weeks, during which period he discovered some grains of gold on the surface of the ground, which he took with him to Mexico. On his arrival there he exhibited his specimens, and a company was formed, having Carriere for their guide to the new El Dorado. Unfortunately for himself, Carriere was unable to find the precise spot, and the Mexicans, thinking that he did not
In 1850, a party of California emigrants passing through this part, found traces of gold, and some of the party wished to stay and examine carefully, but the majority, who had heard of the California nuggets being as ‘large as a brick,’ wished to proceed on their journey. Capt. John Beck, who was of this party, on his return from California, took out a party of a hundred men to this gold field, and from that time the presence of gold was a recognized fact. Party then rapidly succeeded party, every one who returned from the mines giving a highly colored account of the fortunes to be realized there. In May, 1858, a party from Lawrence, Kansas, was induced by these favorable reports to proceed to the diggings, where they found matters even better than had been represented. The result of their discoveries soon became known, and this new El Dorado suddenly became the great magnet of attraction of this continent.” So great in two years was the rush of emigration that, in 1860, the census gave the population of the newly found gold region at about
sixty thousand.
The
Gold Region
is known to extend several hundred miles along the Rocky Mountains. The best part of it is supposed to be between latitudes 37° and 42°. “It is the general opinion that quartz mining must always be the leading interest here; and miners with only the pan and rocker or sluice have not as yet been able, as they were originally in California, to obtain $5 or $10 per day wherever they might locate. Many old Californians, however, aver that the quartz ‘prospects’ much more richly here than it ever has in the golden state.” As early as October, 1860, 75 quartz mills were in operation in the mountains, and 100 more being put up, which, upon the ground and in running order, cost in the aggregate nearly two millions of dollars. The estimated yield of gold for the year was five millions in value. Some rich silver lodes had then been discovered; but the development of this industry must be slow, from the great expense of erecting proper reduction works, and the difficulty of obtaining the practical skill to amalgamate the mineral.
Denver, Auraria
and
Highland
were established by three different companies, but they are substantially one city, and the metropolis of the gold region. They are seventy miles north of Pike's Peak, at the confluence of Cherry Creek and the South Platte River; and distant, by air lines, from St. Louis, 800, Santa Fe, 300, San Francisco, 1,000, and Salt Lake, 400 miles.
Denver and Auraria were the first founded. The first house built on the site of Denver was erected on Oct. 29, 1858, by Gen. Wm. Larimer and party, who had just arrived from Leavenworth. It was a rude log cabin, only six feet high, with a roof of sods. Highland is beautifully situated on the west bank of the Platte. The three places, in general terms, are now called Denver, which, in the fall of 1860, two years after the first house was erected, contained three daily newspapers, two churches, a theater, several fine brick blocks, two bridges across the Platte, excellent roads leading from it to the principal diggings, and 5,000 inhabitants.
Colorado City
, 80 miles south of Denver, was founded in 1859 at the foot of Pike's Peak, and had, in 1860, 1,500 inhabitants.
Golden City
, 15 miles west of Denver, in 1860, had a population of 1,200.
St. Vrain
is on the Platte, 40 miles north of Denver, and on the site of the old trading post of Col. Ceran St. Vrain, frequently alluded to in Fremont's expeditions.
Nebraska
is the immense territory lying north of Kansas and south of the British Possessions, west of Iowa and Dacotah Territory, and east of the Rocky Mountains, a vast area of 336,000 square miles. Originally it formed that immense tract between the tier of states on the west of the Mississippi and the Rocky Mountains, and extending from the British Possessions on the north to the line of Texas on the south, called the Great American Desert, from which sixty-two states of the size of Massachusetts might be carved, In 1853, there was one white individual to every 485 square miles of land. In 1854, Nebraska was, at the same time with Kansas, erected into a territory with its present boundaries.
“The face of the country of Nebraska, from the Missouri River westward to the spurs of the mountains, is rolling prairie, but little diversified in its aspect save by the intersection of its streams. The soil, for a space varying from fifty to one hundred miles west of the Missouri River and the state line, is nearly identical with that of Iowa and Missouri. The highlands are open prairies, covered with grasses; the river bottom a deep, rich loam shaded by dense forests. From this first district to about the mouth of
L'eau qui Court
(Running Water River), it is one boundless expanse of rolling prairie, so largely intermixed with sand as to be almost unfit for ordinary agricultural purposes. The prairies are, however, carpeted with succulent grasses, affording an inexhaustible supply for herds of cattle and sheep.
The second district is a formation of marl and earthy limestone, and extends in a belt of many miles east and west of the Mandan village, on the most northern bend of the Missouri River, and southward across the southern boundary of the territory. This soil is adapted to wheat, rye, barley, and oats.
The district which we will call the third, lying north of the Missouri River and west of Dacotah, is a succession of undulating plains, the soil of which is quite fertile but rather dry. These plains are covered with a thick, grassy sward, which sustains innumerable herds of bison, elk, and deer.
The fourth district is at the base of the Black Hills, between that range and the Rocky Mountains, and includes the valley of the Yellow Stone, of the Maria's River, and a variety of other small valleys, circumvallated by an amphitheater of mountains and other mountain scenery.
The Missouri River was ascended by Lewis and Clarke, in canoes, a distance
The spring freshet usually occurs about the 1st of June. Except during this freshet, the ascent above Council Bluffs, by boats of fifty tuns, is arduous and difficult, and its descent by such boats nearly impossible on account of the number and shifting character of the bars.
After leaving the Great Falls, the tributaries of the Missouri are not numerous, and none of them, above Council Bluffs, are navigable for anything but canoes. The large space intervening between it and the great Platte (or Nebraska), is destitute of streams, and nearly so of springs. Hence the grass on the larger portion of this immense tract becomes withered and stunted, very early in the season. Its chief tributaries are the Platte, the Sioux, the Jacques, the L'eau qui Court, the White, the Hart, and the Yellow Stone.
The climate of Nebraska has not been as yet fully ascertained. Enough is known, however, for practical purposes. Vegetation in Iowa is some weeks later than in Missouri. In eastern Nebraska it is some weeks later than in Iowa, and in the vicinity of the mountains some weeks later still. From the city of St. Louis, traveling either northward or westward, the climate becomes colder about in the same degree—the difference of elevation traveling west being about equivalent in its effects to the difference of latitude traveling north. Snow falls at the foot of the mountains about the 1st of September, and at Council Bluffs about the 1st of November.”
But a small part of Nebraska is adapted to agriculture, the extreme eastern portion, extending back from the Iowa frontier for perhaps two hundred miles. Here, for many years, must the great bulk of the population remain. There is not, beyond it, enough timber and water, and the greater part of the country will never be of utility, excepting for pasturage, unless, indeed, among the mountains, discoveries of mineral wealth may draw thence a large mining population.
The line of emigration of the United States, it is estimated, now advances westward at an annual rate of seventeen miles. The territorial expansion of the population absorbs annually 17,000 square miles, for when population exceeds eight persons to a square mile it emigrates. Within the last twenty-five years, the United States have added, on the west,
nine new states
, with an aggregate area of 934,462 square miles, and three millions of people. With the natural increase of inhabitants, the consumption of territory for colonization, if it existed, would increase in a far greater ratio. But it does not exist.
The western limit of agricultural land in the United States is already reached.
Mr. J. A. Wheelock, commissioner of statistics of Minnesota, in his annual report for 1860, presents these facts under the heading of:
ARABLE AREAS OF THE UNITED STATES EXHAUSTED.
The extended explorations made within the last few years under the auspices of the United States government, of the region between the Mississippi and the Rocky Mountains, have revealed the startling fact in the physics of the United
It is not necessary to quote the detailed description of this American Sahara. The concluding words of Prof. Henry, upon this subject, are more to our purpose. “We have stated that the entire region west of the 98th degree of west longitude, with the exception of a small portion of western Texas, and the narrow border along the Pacific, is a country of comparatively little value to the agriculturist,
* In general, this vast tract may be termed a waterless, timberless, desert-like country While the annual fall of rain in the eastern states amounts to about 42 inches, it is supposed that in the country from the British line south to Texas, and from the 98th meridian to the Sierra Nevada Mountains, of California, the annual amount of rain does not exceed, on an average 10 inches! We all know of the terrible drought of 1860 in Kansas. The interior part of our continent will always be more or loss subject to such calamities. An officer of the U. S. army, commandant of a post in the vicinity of San Antonio, states to us that in all that part of Texas, there has been no rain of consequence within the past five years! The garrison was unable to procure even enough vegetables for its own consumption.
That “rich but narrow belt of fertile lands upon the Pacific,” has already been blocked out with the prosperous states of California and Oregon, with an aggregate population of 450,000.
Upon the eastern bank of the great American desert, Kansas already contains a population sufficient to form a state. Eastern Nebraska and Dacotah are rapidly filling up. Here are, altogether, about 160,000 square miles to be made into new states, and this is all that remains of the national domain—all that remains to supply an imperative and permanent demand for new areas, which absorbs 170,955 square miles every ten years in the formation of new states.
In the very fullness and strength of its westward flow, the tide of immigration is even now arrested upon the brink of a sterile waste, which covers half the national domain.
This event is the turning point in American history. It is the beginning of that cumulative pressure of population upon the means of subsistence, which isIt will condense population within its present limits, and thus add to the wealth and social power of existing states.
2.
By placing a positive limitation upon the supply of western lands it will largely enhance their value.
Beyond the present line of settlement in eastern Nebraska and Kansas to California and Oregon,
stock raising
on the immense prairies, on which now roam countless herds of buffalo, and
gold
and
silver mining
in the mountains, must be the main supports of population. That these industries may in the course of half a century give birth to many new states, and occupation for millions of inhabitants, is not improbable; but the food to support them will require to be principally drawn from the rich agricultural country on and near the Mississippi River. With this condition in prospective, the ultimate value of these lands will be greatly enhanced.
The population of Nebraska is composed of emigrants from the free states of the north-west, and is now confined to the eastern border, along the banks of the Missouri. In 1860, Nebraska had 28,893 inhabitants.
Omaha City
, the capital of Nebraska, is beautifully situated on a wide plateau, the second bottom of the Missouri River, and opposite the city of Council Bluffs, in Iowa. It has substantial brick blocks, handsome churches, a costly court house, built by the general government, and about 2,500 inhabitants.
Nebraska City
, also on the Missouri, is an important point, with a population of about 3,000.
The other prominent places in the territory are
Bellevue, Plattesmouth, Florence, Saratoga, Fontenelle, Brownsville, Nemaha City, Mt. Vernon, St. George, and Kearney City.
Dacotah,
or more correctly
Dahkotah
, is the true name of the Sioux nation of Indians, and “signifies allied or joined together in friendly compact.” The territory so named comprises the western part of the original Territory of Minnesota, and was excluded from its limits when, in 1858, Minnesota was erected into a state. It was organized into a territory in February, 1861. It extends, in extreme limits, N. and S. 450 miles, and E. and W. 200: N. latitude, 42° 30′ to 49°; longitude, W. from Greenwich, 94° to 104°. It is bounded on the N. by the British Possessions, E. by Minnesota and a small part of Iowa, on the S. by Iowa, and also S. and partly on the W. by the Missouri River, separating it from the Territory of Nebraska.
The eastern part is, like Minnesota, covered with multitudes of small lakes and ponds. The largest of these are Red Lake, about 40 miles long and 20 broad, and Mini-wakan, or Devil's Lake, about 50 miles long by 10 broad. Lake Itasca, the source of the Mississippi, is on its eastern boundary. The Minnesota, emptying into the Mississippi, the Big Sioux and Jacques, affluents of the Missouri, and the Great Red River of the North, all take their rise in the high table lands of the interior.
The territory contains numerous salt lakes, and coal has been found. Capt. Jno. Pope, of the U. S. corps of topographical engineers, states that “Dacotah presents features differing but little from the region of prairie and table land west of the frontiers of Missouri and Arkansas, which is mainly devoid of timber. From this is to be excepted the western half of the valley of Red River and the valleys of the Big Sioux and the Rio Jacques, which are productive, and with the region inclosed contain arable and well timbered land sufficient for a small state.” These valleys are productive in wheat of the best qualities. Population, in 1860, 4,839.
Pembina
, the principal town of the territory, is some 360 miles, in an air line, N.W. of St. Paul, on the Red River of the North, just below the British line. It was settled, in 1812, by Scottish emigrants under Lord Selkirk, who obtained an extensive grant of land from the Hudson Bay Company. On the running of the boundary line, subsequently, Pembina, the southern most point of the colony, was found to be just within the limits of the United States.
“The settlement—which contains about seven thousand inhabitants—is flourishing, and agriculture is prosecuted by the hardy settlers there with considerable success. The greater part of the inhabitants are half natives
The Indian Territory
is an extensive country lying west of Arkansas and north of Texas, and extending far into the western wilderness; and containing about 71,000 square miles. It has been allotted by the general government as the permanent residence of those Indian tribes who emigrate from the states east of the Mississippi. “It is about 450 miles long east and west, and from 35 to 240 miles in width north and south. Kansas lies on the north of this tract, Arkansas on the east, Texas on the south, and New Mexico and Texas on the west. In the north-western portion of the Indian Territory are the vast sandy, barren lands, known as the
Great American Desert.
Excepting this desolate region, the country is occupied by undulating plains and prairies, broken on the east by the mountain ridges, called the Ozark or Washita, which come in from Arkansas. Coal of an excellent quality abounds in the eastern part. The great southern overland mail route to California passes through it.
The Choctaws, the Chickasaws, the Cherokees, the Creeks, the Senecas, the Seminoles, and the Shawnees dwell in the east; while the central and western districts are occupied by the Camanches, the Osages, the Pawnees, the Kioways, the Arrapahoes, and other tribes. The country is, besides, thickly inhabited by buffaloes, wild horses, antelopes, deer, prairie-dogs, and wild animals and wild birds of many names. Kansas and Nebraska were included in the Indian Territory until 1854.”
The Indians within and near the borders of the territory, including the uncivilized tribes, it is supposed, number about 90,000. The civilized tribes are the Cherokees and Choctaws, each numbering 19,000; the Creeks numbering 25,000, and the Chickasaws, 16,000, all of whom emigrated from the cotton states east of the Mississippi. These four tribes have adopted republican forms of government, modeled after those of our states, with executive, legislative and judicial departments. * “These four Indian states,” says the New Orleans Picayune, “are a strange anomaly. They are not a part of the Union, nor are they known in law to exist. The white man can not pass through their territory without a permit, nor can he take with him, when he is allowed to enter the Indian domain, certain articles of merchandise, even though the packages are unbroken and are simply designed for the New Mexican market. This singular state of things can not exist for many years, without forcing itself upon the attention of Congress. The tide of population is steadily rolling west. In less than ten years it will beat against the barriers now thrown up against its invasion of the retreat of those civilized aborigines. Even now the emigration must cross these territories. These Indian states can not exist when the Caucassian race presses upon them as independent governments. The people, civilized and attached to the soil they have improved, can not be removed to remoter wilds, nor, without serious discontents, is it likely the United States can subject them to the condition of other territorial organizations, by an abrogation of the constitutions they have established for themselves. What, then, is to be done with these Indian states? It can not fail to give greater interest to this question that each of these Indian states have adopted the social institutions of the south.”
The Cherokees are regarded as the most civilized of these tribes, and it is said that many of its principal men would grace the refined society of any nation. Among them and the Choctaws there is so much white blood mingled that many of the younger members, especially, would not be suspected of Indian origin: None of these people injure themselves by hard work, but they are “wonderfully industrious for Indians.”
“Their principal wealth is vested in stock. Any amount of fine grazing land is lying idle, and the climate is so mild that stock (except milch cows and working cattle) requires no feeding in winter. In the spring ring the farmer brands his calves and colts, and turns them out upon the prairie, and there his care for them ends. All the brands are officially recorded, and mistakes' in regard to them seldom occur, as they have an ugly way of punishing horse and cattle stealing by death! A year or two after, when the owner is in want of beef, ponies, or oxen for farm labor, he sends out his negroes to drive in the desired animals. He would certainly be unreasonable to complain of the expense of raising them.” These people seem, as a class, “well to do” in the world. Their houses are ordinarily of logs, but spacious and comfortable, and will compare favorably with those of south-western Missouri and Arkansas. Some of them are handsome frame buildings.
When the temperance reformation overspread the land some years since, these emigrant tribes adopted measures for the prohibition of intemperance, with various degrees of success. “Among the Choctaws a law was passed upon this subject, which was measurably successful; and the spirit which effected its passage was worthy of the most exalted state of civilization. It seems that the tribe had generally become sensible of the pernicious influences of strong drink upon their prosperity, and had, in vain, attempted various plans for its suppression. At last, a council of the head men of the nation was convened, and they passed a law by acclamation, that each and any individual who should, henceforth,
introduce
ardent spirits into the nation, should be punished with a hundred lashes on his bare back. The council adjourned, but the members soon began to canvass among themselves the pernicious consequences which might result from the protracted use of whisky
already
in the shops, and, therefore, concluded the quicker it was drank up, the more promptly the evil would be over, so falling to, in less than two hours Bacchus never mustered a drunker troop than were these same temperance legislators. The consequences of their determination were of lasting importance to them.”
Life and property are as safe among these Indians as in the adjoining
A circumstance was related to us which will serve to illustrate this trait of character. Two brothers were living together, one of whom had been charged with crime, convicted, and sentenced to be executed. When the morning came on which the sentence should be carried into effect, the condemned man manifested some reluctance in meeting the executioner. The brother was both surprised and indignant. ‘My brother,’ said he, ‘you’ fraid to die; you no good Indian; you coward; you no plenty much brave. You live, take care my woman and child; I die; I no 'fraid die; much brave!” The exchange was accordingly made; the innocent brother died while the guilty was permitted to live. This was said to have occurred before they emigrated west. In an earlier period of their history substitutes were frequently accepted, and when the guilty was not found any member of his family was liable to be arrested and made to suffer the penalty which should have been inflicted upon the criminal. The law required ‘an eye for an eye, a tooth for a tooth,’ blood for blood; but they would not execute two men for the murder of one. Two or more might be implicated, yet the death of one malefactor satisfied the demands of justice. Before the adoption of their present constitution, the injured or aggrieved party was permitted to take the case into his own hands, and to administer justice in the most summary manner; but since the organization of the new government every charge must take the form of a regular indictment, be carefully investigated, and decided in legal form.”
THE END.
OFFICIAL CENSUS TABLE,
SHOWING THE POPULATION OF THE UNITED STATES AND TERRITORIES, ACCORDING TO THE SEVENTH CENSUS (1850), AND THE EIGHTH CENSUS (1860), RESPECTIVELY.
CENSUS OF 1850.
CENSUS OF 1860.
The following table shows the number of members of Congress apportioned to each State in 1850 and in 1860. In 1860, the ratio of representation was 127,216.
Total,
The following tables show the increase of population in 1860, in the different States, over the population of 1850:
FREE STATES. Increase. Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Wisconsin, Iowa, Minnesota, Oregon, California, Total, SLAVE STATES Increase. Delaware, Maryland, Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Florida, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, Arkansas, Texas, Tennessee, Kentucky, Missouri, Total,
The following tables show the Free and the Slave population at each decennial period since the first census was taken:
SLAVE POPULATION OF THE UNITED STATES.
The following table shows the total population of the United States at each decennial period:
1790, 1800, 1810, 1820, 1830, 1840, 1850, 1860,
The increase of the free population of the United States has averaged, at each decade, for the last half century, about 35 per cent.; the increase of the slave population about 27 per cent. Estimating the inarease of each kind of population at these figures for the half century to come, the results at each decade in round numbers, are as follows:
Abercrombie, defeat of,
Acadians, expedition against,
Adams' Admin.,
“ John, notice of,
“ John Q.,
Alamo, Texas, fall of,
“ names of the slain at,
Allen, Gen. Ethan,
Arnold, Benedict, treason of,
“ invades Conn.,
Andre, Maj., the spy,
Andross, Sir Edmund,
Austin, Moses, and Gen. Stephen F.,
Allamance, battle of,
Assunpink, battle of,
Ancient customs in New England, burials, dwellings, wells, food, drinks, dress recreations, etc.,
Ballad, Lovewell; fight,
“ Schenectady,
Barton's, Col., exploit,
Blue Licks, battle of,
Barber, Mrs., first white woman in Connecticut,
Bennington, battle of,
Billy Bowlegs, Florida,
Bunker Hill, battle of,
Boquet, Col., interesting incident,
Boone, Daniel, the pioneer,
Bloody Island, duel, etc.,
Brandywine, battle of,
Black Hawk War,
Brainard Missionary Station,
Braddock's defeat,
Brandt, Col. Joseph (Mohawk),
Baltimore, mob in,
Boxer, British brig, capture of,
Boston massacre,
Berkeley, Bishop, notice of,
Buchanan's administration,
Buford's defeat, S. C.,
Burgoyne's expedition, surrender,
Bryant's Station, siege of,
Burr, Col. Aaron, notice of,
Catholic missions, Maine,
Caldwell, Rev. James, notice of,
Calhoun, John C., residence of,
Camden, battle of,
Cabot, discoveries of,
Cartright, Rev. Peter,
Castine, Baron, notice of,
Census of the United States at different periods,
Chippewa, battle of,
Chesapeake, capture of,
Cherokee war,
“ mission,
Clay, Henry, monument,
“ notice of,
Charter Oak, Hartford,
Chicago, massacre at,
Cornwallis, surrender of,
Constitution of the United States,
Continental money,
Colburn, Zerah,
Concord, Mass., battle of,
Cotton, cultivation of,
Copper Dis., Tenn., Mich.,
Creek war,
Charleston, attack on, in
“ capture of, in
Continental congress,
Conestoga Indians, murder of,
Cowpens, battle of,
Cotton-gin, cotton culture,
Crockett, David,
Crawford, Col., burning of,
Dade, Maj., death of,
“ monument of,
Dartmouth College,
Davenport, Col., murder of,
Detroit, invasion of,
D'Anville's fleet, destruction of,
Dieskau, defeat of,
Dog dance of the Dakotahs,
Donop, Count, defeat of,
Dorr insurrection,
De Soto's expedition,
De Kalb, Baron,
Dighton Rock,
Dismal Swamp,
Dow, Lorenzo,
Dubuque, Julian, notice of,
Dustin, Mrs., capture of,
Early times in the North West,
Earthquake, New Madrid,
Emigrant Aid Society, Kansas,
Eutaw Springs, battle of,
Zanesville,
Putnam,
Eliot, John, the apostle,
Falmouth, Me., attack on,
Fairfield, burning of,
Fillmore's administration,
Fanning's massacre, Texas,
Fort, Griswold, storming of,
Florida war,
French settlers of Wisconsin,
“ Kaskaskia,
Franklin, Gov., a prisoner,
“ Dr., notice of,
French fleet at Newport,
Fulton, Robert, first steamboat,
French emigrants, Alabama,
Flora M'Donald,
Georges, Sir Fernando, Robert, etc.,
Goodrich, S. G., reminiscences of,
Germans in Texas,
Gosnold's voyage to N. England,
Gaspee, schooner, taking of,
Guilford, battle of,
Girard, Stephen,
Germantown, battle of,
Great Sun, Natches chief,
Gold in Colorado,
“ discovery of, in California,
“Hail Columbia,” song, origin of,
Harper's Ferry, raid at,
Havana, expedition against,
Hale, Nathan, execution of,
Hartford poets,
“ convention,
Harnett House, Wilmington,
Hamilton, Alexander,
Horse Shoe battle, Alabama,
Harrison's administration,
Honest prisoner,
Huguenot colonists,
Hopkins, Dr. Samuel, notice of,
Hubberton, battle of,
Huddy, Capt., death of,
Independence, declaration of,
Irving, Washington, notice of,
Indians, Penobscot,
Indian Territory tribes,
Iron mines of Missouri,
Jackson's administration,
Jasper, Sergeant, the hero,
Jefferson's administration,
Jerks, singular affection,
Jersey prison ships,
Kansas Indians,
Kaskaskia, conquest of,
Keokuk Indian chief,
King Philip's war,
“ death,
King's Mountain, battle,
Kenton, Gen. Simon, grave of
Land system of the United States,
La Fitte, the freebooter,
La Fayette's visit to U. S.,
Ledyard, Eulogy on Woman,
Lexington, first bloodshed at,
Lovewell's fight, Maine,
Louisburg, conquest of,
Louisiana, purchase of,
Long, Island, battle of,
Lundy's Lane, battle of,
Lyman colony in Mississippi,
Lovejoy, Rev. E. P., killed,
Lead mines, at Galena,
Logan's speech, etc.,
Madison's administration,
Maffit, John N., notice of,
Mammoth Cave, Ky.,
Marshall, Judge, notice of,
Massacre at Ft. Mimms,
Massacre at Old Mackinaw,
“ at River Raisin,
M'Henry, Ft., bombardment of,
Marion's Men, song,
Mediterranean colonists in Florida,
Mecklenburg declaration of Independence,
Millerism,
Missouri compromise,
Marquette, the explorer,
Montgomery, Gen., death of,
Monroe's administration,
Mormons, sketch of, doctrines, etc.,
“ expulsion from Missouri,
Monmouth, battle of,
Moravian Indians, murder of,
Massacre by the Natchez,
Mason, the bandit,
Mexico, first battle, Palo Alto, etc.,
Moravians on the Tuscarawas,
Narragansett Indians,
“ or Swamp fight,
Nat Turner's insurrection,
New Jersey, benediction on,
New London, burning of,
“ blockade of,
New Orleans, battle of,
Norridge works destroyed;
Norfolk, burning of,
Niagara, battle of,
Nickajack campaign,
Ojibway scalp dance,
Osceola, the chieftain, 791; death,
Oriskany, battle of,
Palatines from Germany,
Perry's victory,
Penobscot Indians,
Pequot war,
Philip's, King, war, 35, death,
Pierce's administration,
Plattsburg, battle of,
Pilgrim Hall, etc., Plymouth,
Portuguese in Illinois,
Pontiac war,
Paoli, massacre of,
Pt. Pleasant, battle of,
Polk's administration,
Prairies, fertility of, etc.,
Princeton, battle of,
Pulaski, killed at Savannah,
Puritan settlers, compact of,
Putnam's wolf den,
Quebec, capture of,
Ralle, Father Sebastian,
Rappites, account of,
Red Bank, battle of,
Regulators of North Carolina,
Riot in Providence,
“ in Baltimore,
Rice, culture of,
Rogers, Maj., exploits or,
Rumford, Countess, 175; Count,
St. Clair, Gen., defeat,
Scioto Company, 1804,
Salt manufacture in N. Y.,
Virginia, 660; Michigan,
Sandemanians, notice of,
San Jacinto, battle,
“ names of the soldiers,
Santa Anna, capture of,
Saratoga, surrender at,
Schuyler, Hon. Yost, stratagem of,
Scotch Higlanders,
Schencetady, destruction of,
Silver mines, Arizona,
Shawnee Italians in Kansas,
Skenandoa the Indian chieftain,
Shays' rebellion, Mass.,
Stark, Gen. John, notice of,
Star Spangled Banner, ode,
Stamp Act,
Stoney Point, capture of,
Social life at the South,
Sullivan's Indian campaign,
South, journey through,
Stratton, C. S. (Tom Thumb)
Sugar Cane, cultivation of,
Stock raising in Texas,
Symmes, John Cleves, notice of,
Taylor's administration,
Tallageda, battle of,
Tea, destruction of,
Tecumseh, interview with Gen. Harrison,
Tennent, Rev. Wm., remarkable account of,
Ticonderoga, Surrender of,
Tippecanoe, battle of,
Tobacco, culture,
Tornadoes at the West,
Trenton, battle of,
Trumbull family, of Connecticut,
Tyler's administration,
Turpentine, manufacture of,
Uneas, the Mohegan,
Valley Forge,
Verrazzano, voyages of,
Van Buren's administration,
Vicksburg, gamblers at,
Vigilance committee of California,
Wadsworth, Gen., narrative, escape, etc.,
Waldron, Maj., killed by Indians,
Wayne's victory over Indians,
Washington's administration,
Washington, invasion of,
Wells, French and Indian attack on,
Weatherford, Creek chief, speech,
Webster's speech against Hayne,
Webster, Noah, notice of,
Whale fishery,
Witchcraft, Salem,
White Hall, R. I.,
White mountains,
Whitfield, Rev. Geo., notice of,
Whisky Insurrection,
Wooster monument, Danbury,
Wright, Fanny, 1025 Willey, family destroyed,
Wyoming, battle of,
Wyandot mission,
Yellow Fever in Philadelphia,
“ at Norfolk and Portsmouth,
Zinzendorf, Count,
Zane, Elizabeth, heroism of
John Adams,
John Q. Adams,
Samuel Adams,
Ethan Allen,
Isaac Allerton,
Washington Allston,
Fisher Ames,
Benedict Arnold,
John Jas. Audubon,
Moses Austin,
Stephen F. Austin,
Com. Wm. Bainbridge,
Joel Barlow,
Com. Joshua Barney,
Com. James Barron,
Josiah Bartlett,
James A. Bayard,
John M'Pherson Berrien,
Wm. Wyatt Bibb,
Com. James Biddle,
Wm. Blount,
Wm. Cranch Bond,
Daniel Boone,
Thomas H. Benton,
Bowlegs,
Gen. Hugh Brady,
David Brainard,
Joseph Brandt,
Carter Braxton,
Hugh Breckenridge,
Wm. Brewster,
Wm. Bull,
David S. Burnet,
Jacob Burnet,
Joseph Caldwell,
John C. Calhoun,
George Calvert,
John Carver,
Chas. Carroll, of Carrolton,
Jonathan Carver,
Lewis Cass,
Canonicus,
Samuel Chase,
Com. Isaac Chauncey,
Langdon Cheves,
Thomas Chittenden,
Wm. C. C. Claiborne,
Abraham Clark,
Gen. Wm. Clark,
Gen. Geo. Rogers Clark,
Henry Clay,
John M. Clayton,
Geo. Clinton,
De Witt Clinton,
Gen. Duncan L. Clinch,
George Clymer,
Zerah Colburn,
Walter Colton,
James F. Cooper,
John Singleton Copley,
Wm. H. Crawford,
David Crockett,
Com. Richard Dale,
Gen. Henry Dearborn,
Com. Stephen Decatur,
Hernando De Soto,
Gen. Wm. Eaton,
Jonathan Edwards,
William Ellery,
Com. J. D. Elliott,
John Elliott,
John Forsyth,
Wm. Floyd,
Robert Fulton,
James Gadsden,
Gen. Edward P. Gaines,
Elbridge Gerry,
Ferdinando Gorges,
Gen. Nathaniel Greene,
Horatio Greenough,
Roger Griswold,
Nathan Guilford,
Button Gwinnett,
Capt. Nathan Hale,
Lyman Hall,
Alexander Hamilton,
Gen. James Hamilton,
Chas. Hammond,
John Hancock,
Benjamin Harrison,
Gen. Wm. Henry Harrison,
John Hart,
Robert Y. Hayne,
Col. J. C. Hays,
J. Pinckney Henderson,
Lewis Hennepin,
Patrick Henry,
Joseph Hewes,
Thos. Heyward,
Isaac Hill,
Abiel Holmes,
Wm. Hooper,
Francis Hopkinson,
Joseph Hopkinson,
Stephen Hopkins,
Douglas Houghton,
Gen. Samuel Houston,
Gen. John E. Howard,
Benjamin Howard,
Gen. Robert Howe,
Com. Isaac Hull,
Gen. William Hull,
Samuel Huntington,
Andrew Jackson,
John Jay,
Col. Richard M. Johnson,
Sir Nathaniel Johnson,
Sir William Johnson,
Com. Jacob Jones,
Dr. Elisha K. Kane,
Gen. S. W. Kearney,
Simon Kenton,
Francis Scott Key,
Rufus King,
Wm. R. King,
William King,
Capt. Joseph Kirkwood,
Gen. Henry Knox,
Jean Lafitte,
Mirabeau B. Lamar,
Col. Henry Laurens,
Amos Lawrence,
Capt. James Lawrence,
Francis Lightfoot Lee,
Gen. Henry Lee,
Richard H. Lee,
John Ledyard,
Hugh S. Legare,
Francis Lewis,
Meriwether Lewis,
Abraham Lincoln,
Lewis F. Linn,
Edward Livingston,
Philip Livingston,
William Livingston,
Gen. Benjamin Logan,
William Lowndes,
Thos. Lynch,
Gen. Duncan McArthur,
Gen. Alexander Macomb,
Col. Benjamin McCullough,
Com. Thos. Macdonough,
George McDuffie,
Alex. McGillivray,
Lachlin McIntosh,
Thos. McKean,
Louis McLane,
John McLean,
Nathaniel Macon,
James Madison,
Col. Jared Mansfield,
Gen. Francis Marion,
John Marshall,
Massasoit,
Gen. Nathaniel Massie,
George Mason,
Jeremiah Mason,
S. T. Mason,
Cotton Mather,
James Marquette,
Return J. Meigs,
Micanopy,
Arthur Middleton,
Gen. Thos. Mifflin,
Col. Benjamin R. Milam,
Gen. James Miller,
Gen. Wm. Moultrie,
James Monroe,
James Daniel Morgan,
Com. Chas. Morris,
Gouverneur Morris,
Lewis Morris,
Robt. Morris,
John Morton,
Gen. Peter Muhlenberg,
Neamathla,
Thos. Nelson,
Jean N. Nicollet,
Gen. James E. Oglethorpe,
Osceola,
James Otis,
William,
Robt. Treat Paine,
Martin Parmer,
Passaconaway,
John Penn,
William Penn,
Sir William Pepperell,
Nicholas Perrot,
Philip,
Sir Wm. Phips,
Pocahontas,
Edgar Allan Poe,
Joel Poinsett,
Gen. Wm. Polk,
Pontiac,
Gen. Enoch Poor,
Com. David Porter,
Col. Timothy Pickering,
Gen. Andrew Pickens,
Benjamin Pierce,
Gen. Z. M. Pike,
Chas. C. Pinckney,
Chas. Pinckney,
Thomas Pinckney,
William Pinkney,
Com. Edward Preble,
Sarjeant S. Prentiss,
Wm. H. Prescott,
Gen. Israel Putnam,
Gen. Rufus Putnam,
David Ramsay,
John Randolph,
Geo. Read,
Joseph Reed,
Com. Chas. G. Ridgeley,
Gen. Bennet Riley,
Peyton Randolph,
Major Samuel Ringgold,
Gen. E. W. Ripley,
David Rittenhouse,
Gen. James Robertson,
Capt. John Rodgers,
Major Robert Rogers,
Caesar Rodney,
Geo. Ross,
Benjamin Rush,
Thos. J. Rusk,
Edward Rutledge,
John Rutledge,
Arthur St. Clair,
Philip Schuyler,
Gen Chas. Scott,
John Sevier,
Isaac Shelby,
Roger Sherman,
Gen. Sidney Sherman,
Gen. Wm. Smallwood,
Capt. John Smith,
Gen. Persifer F. Smith,
James Smith,
Gen. Samuel Smith,
Capt. Richard Somers,
Capt. Miles Standish,
John I,. Stephens,
Com. Chas. Stewart,
Gilbert Chas. Stuart,
Richard Stockton,
Major Amos Stoddard,
Thomas Stone,
Joseph Story,
Lieut. Isaac C. Strain
Peter Stuyvesant,
Gen. John Sullivan,
Capt. Silas Talbot,
Geo. Taylor,
Gen. Zachary Taylor,
Tecumseh,
Benjamin Thompson,
Matthew Thornton,
Tomochichi,
Gen. Nathan Touson,
John Trumbull,
John Tyler,
James Waddel,
George Walton,
Col. Seth Warner,
George Washington,
Gen. Anthony Wayne,
William Weatherford,
Noah Webster,
Conrad Weiser,
Benjamin West,
Com. Abraham Whipple,
William Whipple,
Gen. O. H. Williams,
William Williams,
Roger Williams,
Gen. James Wilkinson,
James Wilson,
John Winthrop,
James Witherspoon,
William Wirt,
Oliver Wolcott,
Levi Woodbury,
Silas Wright,
George Wythe,
Elihu Yale
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Acoma,
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Akron,
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Augusta,
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Austin,
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Battle Creek,
Bayfield,
Beloit,
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Bellevue,
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Benecia,
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Boonesborough,
Boonville,
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Rock Island City,
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Springfield,
Staunton,
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