Wis. Hist. Colls., xii, pp. 335–382. To that article the reader is referred. The original of the diary is owned by Miss Salome Duerst, of New Glarus, but has been deposited, for safe-keeping, in the library of this Society. It is of great value as a first-hand report of the trials and impressions of the earliest Swiss immigrants to Wisconsin. It will be remembered that these colonists were from the Swiss Canton of Glarus, and emigrated to America under cantonal auspices, for Glarus had become overpopulated.—
Ed.
TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN OF MATHIAS DUERST, BY JOHN LUCHSINGER.
On the 15th of April, 1845, I took leave of my friends and neighbors, and went to Mitlödi and staid at the sign of the Horse, overnight. Next morning, the 10th, accompanied by my Brother J. Balth I took the path to the Biasca expecting to meet my dear family and relatives. Our committee had also arrived. I believed that everything had been well arranged; but heavens, how we were deceived. Even before we arrived at Rapperschwyl we asked the captain of our vessel “Felder,” where we were to lodge and board. He answered that is your business, that his business was merely to carry and not to feed and lodge us. Upon that there was uproar among us.
At Rapperschwyl all went to the New Ship inn, in the City Court, at my instance, because of the prior good reputation of the house. But here we found avarice in play; we had to pay double prices for everything, even for a bed 8 Batzen [40 cents]. I would warn every one to beware of this baptized Jew.
On the morning of the 17th we rose early, even too early, for we had to wait a full hour at the landing in the cold rain, with our little ones; we were finally allowed to go on board the vessel; some got on the tug boat that pulled ours. Our leaders, with some others, went into a room and discussed our dreary condition; the most of us had very little money. Paulus Grob, a brother of the first leader, came to us and figured everything and found that nothing lacked except the money for our support on the journey, an omission for which we had to blame our Judicial Parish Council. At ten o'clock in the evening of this, to us, everything but joyful day, George Legler requested me to describe our condition in writing, to be sent to our Parish Board, and while the others slept, I carried out the request and in as compact sentences as possible described our condition and in the morning a number of us signed the letter and sent it. I had no time to make a copy of it. We had very bad weather; all of the male persons had to remain on deck without cover, because the cabins were stuffed full of human beings; in such a manner we arrived at Zurich, but now the trouble only began. Shipmaster Körner said that only passage for 155 persons had been contracted for and not 193, that his vessel was not large enough, and that there was much more baggage than had been represented to him, and than he had expected. He hired 3 large four horse wagons, each at 50 florins for the women and children, but even then there were 30 such unprovided for, although the wagons were crowded to suffocation; a fourth wagon was prepared in haste as the rain fell in streams; some of us had to do some running. We went to see Mr. Landaman Blumer [member of Swiss Diet]; he heard us and promised to be surety for additional expense to the amount of 30 florins, and besides gave us a gratuity [of] 18 florins.
Well, we then proceeded onward in God's Name. The male persons remained in the vessel. What we often consider misfortunes may by Heaven's Guidance become good fortunes. Oh how glad we were that our little ones were not with us in the boat, for we nearly perished with the cold; thus we arrived
Just before we got to Basle we caught sight of the wagons wherein our people were packed (there is no other fitting term) going over the Basle bridge. So that we all arrived at the same time at Basle to our great satisfaction. On our landing we were met by the Business Manager of Chris. David, named Basler, who received us in a friendly manner which we found to our sorrow was always the case when an advantage was to be gained. We had new difficulties to fight against, in which we were warmly assisted by Mr. Barthol Hefty of Haslen; he no doubt has written home of our miserable condition.
Some of us also visited Teacher Glarner who received us with kind hospitality and fed us with bread and wine he accompanied us to our lodging, our hosts were kind people, heaven reward them. I would recommend them to everyone; their Inn is the Sign of the Red Ox. Our little Caspar lay very sick there, and we received all possible aid and attention.
After the disorder in our affairs was settled, we again began our journey from Basle, on the 19th at 4 o'clock P. M. After four hours journey we stopped at Scheinweiler a Baden Village. There again some wandered ashore and others remained in the vessel; I had determined to remain, although my boy was yet sick and my wife was distressed; there came a Border Guard to me and requested that I go with him. I followed him with my family ignorant whither. He led us four to a Stone house where lived an old man with two single daughters they gave us coffee and my wife and children could once more lie in a good bed, and I in the room
We were detained for health inspection so that we were unable to start before 9 A. M. on the 21st. The same evening we arrived at Kehl, a Baden town; we again had difficulty in getting beds for our wives and children, the men slept on straw in the barroom of the inn; but no one need imagine that it cost nothing to sleep on the long feathers, we had to pay from 3 to 4 kreuzer a piece [6 to 8 cents]. Kehl is a very fine town, we went about a quarter of a league to see the new railway and marvelled at that work of human hands. On the 22nd we started as late as 8 A. M. because of the custom house officers' inspection, and arrived in the evening at a Bavarian Village where we were lodged simple good and cheap. A schoppen brandy [one and a half pints] cost 5 kreuzer [10 cents]. A like measure of wine 3 kr. [6 cents]. Coffee for each person the same.
On the 23rd we arrived at Mannheim there we had to wait two and one half days for the Steam boat which arrived on the 25th in the night. Our leaders went to see Mr. Lanz the agent, he said he would provide cheap lodgings, about 100 of us were lodged in the Deer Inn, where all slept on straw on the floor of the dance hall, cost us 3 kr. each, 12 beds. It cost 6 krs. per person two in a bed; those who were well supplied with money or for other reasons did not relish such lodging sought other quarters. It
So Legler and I had to draw on the common fund, and apparently we shall use up the whole of that fund designed to assist our beginning at the settlement, before we get there. A splendid arrangement we are under, but no one need wonder at it when you consider what miserable fellows sit in our Parish Council, who hardly know their a. b. c. and the better informed can barely write their names, let alone organize any sensible measure. Our town meeting resolution of April 1844 stated in positive terms that the head of each family should receive sufficient support and that our expenses should be defrayed to our destination. Had I not believed this would be done I certainly would not have ventured with one and one-half florins [60 cts.] to start on such a journey. I never would have believed that I was expected to provide food for four or five weeks. I hardly know whether to ascribe this state of things to a devilish malice, or to unpardonable ignorance, I incline to the latter. We must now break the track, every one who announced his intention too late to go was disappointed, but friends and relatives you may rejoice that you are yet at home. To you we turn that you may remind our Councillors and Councillor Streiff of the promises publicly made to us on our embarking at the Biasca Landing. If we had been unable to open our own purses we should have starved before this; we believed their promises, but Faith and belief do not always bring Salvation.
On the 26th we embarked on the Steamer and arrived in the evening at Cologne. Those who had money as usual
On the morning of the 29
On the 30th we arrived at Amsterdam where we again bought food; here we were embarked on two coasting vessels and in the evening after much delay sailed away. At Amsterdam thieves abounded, and several of our people had articles stolen.
The night of the 30th to May 1st was to us a night of terror, about midnight a severe storm struck us and madly stormed until morning. An Anchor was thrown 100 feet from the shore, then a rope was thrown to shore and by means of a windlass our vessel was drawn to the land and fastened. Only our ship was so fortunate, the other—which
So we lay in this condition till Ascension day but on neither vessel were the people in condition to observe this holiday. We saw the inhabitants in Sunday attire but supposed they were Catholics and were observing some of their feastdays. The most of us were very Seasick, the strongest men were obliged to retire and lie down. We had to remain where we were until the morning of the 2nd when we left but with such unfavorable wind that the ships could merely tack back and forth, so we could hardly make ¼league in an hour. We had only 5 leagues to go and arrived at Nieuwendiep at 4 P. M. We embarked at once on the ocean ship which is a fine well-built three-master containing 88 berths in which we this evening lay, merely in our bed clothes; on the 3rd we bought straw so we can rest properly, but we must do our cooking outdoors on the shore like vagabonds; on the 4th was Sunday, but it can here not be distinguished from week days; people do business as on other days. The sailors gave most sign of it, many of them were full drunk.
From the 5th until Whitsuntide, the 11th, every day the same weather. We went to the town daily to buy food which was dear as is usual in a Seaport, especially one like Nieuwendiep which lies where for many leagues not a single fruit tree gladdens the eye of man; nothing but fiat meadows cut up with many canals, where the cattle gnawed the grass which is hardly 2 inches high; it is very unfertile, for a cutting cold sea wind blows continually. We could never really become warm. Nieuwendiep is entirely new; 45 years ago only one house is said to have been where now 11,000 people live; pavements and houses are of brick but seldom more than 2 stories high; they are mostly stores and shops where any article may be bought. Brandy 1 Stuber [1½ cts] a glass. Beer the same, but not good. Cheese was cheapest, for 4 Stuber [6 cts] a good rich one. Some was sold for less, which was mixed with cloves, but not all of
Ed.
When things went wrong he could only curse and howl. Should another batch of emigrants leave our land do not leave the choice of leaders to M. Streiff. It was he that persuaded the committee to appoint such stupid men. On Whitsun Monday the 12th a few of the men from Diesbach came to me and requested me to go to the town and write a plain unvarnished letter home, we went into several houses but found no convenient place for there is not a great hotel in all the town, people drink their beer and schnaps in the shops standing; or if one wants to take his ease he sits on a bench or tub or whatever else is convenient, holding the glass in one hand and provender in the other. I believe this custom arose from the fact that Hollanders empty their glasses at one swallow and then leave. We resolved therefore to let the writing wait until we should arrive at Baltimore, so as also to include the account of the Ocean Voyage. So we each bought a jug of schnaps and returned to our ships, on which we remained.
At nine o'clock of the morning of the 13th we pushed from the shore; an hour was spent in getting us into proper position with ropes and windlass; then our ship was taken in tow by a steamer which is always ready in the harbor for that purpose. At ten Oclock we moved off and bade farewell to Europe, perhaps forever for many of us. The steamer pulled us out about two leagues when we were given over to wind and waves. Seasickness took possession of most of us, and there was vomiting all around, none of us could remain on our feet even those who escaped the sickness, because of the heavy rolling of the ship by the waves. So we sailed with variable winds until Wednesday the 21st when there came a storm that drove the sweat out of the pores of many of us. Although the distance from the ships rail to the surface of the water was at least 16 feet and certainly the vessel reached a like number of feet under the surface, yet the ship lay now on this, now on the other side until the rail dipped into the water. The storm ceased on the morning of the 22d; the wind was completely still so that the ship made only two leagues this day. On the 23d we made better progress and on the 24th yet better, but the 25th was for us again a day of terror; a storm arose in the night, which reigned the whole following day with terrible madness. Many a one sobbed Oh if I had only remained in my home. From the 24th until the 26th Noon we were not allowed to make any fire, neither for the grown or the little could anything warm be cooked; those who had bought some food on land, cheese, or crackers could get along, but I and many others must fast, for the ships provisions seem contrived not entirely to kill human beings yet to make them very sick; much of it could not be eaten. The meat is all packed in barrels and so much salted that we have to wash it many times then parboil it and again throw
the water away until it was fresher, but even then it was hardly edible. We receive 2½ lbs per week to each adult person; those under 12 years were reckoned two for one. Hard tack we have sufficient but this is not a human food. The pigs that are kept
On the 28th we realized the results of our bad lot; we sorrowed over two victims, Anna Beglinger, Rudolf Stauffacher's wife of Matt. after suffering many deaths for several days gave up her spirit this afternoon at 3 Oclock. She was wrapped and sewed into a large linen sheet; three pails full of sand were placed at her feet so as to sink her body. We carried her on deck laid her on a plank, we sang the first two verses of the 140 hymn, Leader Grob read our home funeral service, and so one hour after her death she was sunk into the ocean, where she will undergo no decay, and her bones need not first be sought and gathered at the resurrection. After she had sunk, the remaining verses of the hymn were sung; all of the ships people were on deck, and Leader Grob made a touching address, and urged us to be patient and united. Fruitless words; even when the water rises to and into the lips of the Glarus people they will not leave off their hatred, envy, distrust and self-love, each follows only his own lead; to be just, there are exceptions, but they are the grains of Gold in the sand on the shores. On the same day at 7 P. M. the ½ year old child of Henry Stauffacher of Matt. died, it was bound into a pillow and placed over night in a small boat on deck, and next morning the 29th committed to the waves with like services as before; we sang the 142 hymn. This day we again had storm, but our fear was not now so great because we were more accustomed to it, and we knew that there was not much danger even with great storms on the high sea, unless they become cyclones and raise great masses of water out of the sea to great heights and carry it along many leagues. Should a ship have the misfortune to be in its path it is helplessly lost; they are termed waterspouts; we saw none such.
On the morn of the 30th the storm quieted down and we had fine weather and good wind all day.
The 31st was a splendid day with bright sunshine, we sailed 50 to 60 leagues in 12 hours. This fore noon at 10 our ship had sailed just half the distance of our voyage, the other half we might make with favorable winds in 10 or 12 days; but it might take 20 or 30. So we passed the joyous month of May on the water where no blossoms or flowers perfume the air, but where we suffered fear, sorrow and pain, with but few joys between. Only a firm confidence in God, and the hope that over there in America a better future smiles upon us inspires and keeps us from despair.
Sunday the first of June is again a day of pleasure if one dare enjoy pleasure here. In the brightest sunshine all day the ship ran through the water like an arrow, without rolling; the most of the people [who] were on deck sang, jested, smoked and disputed. Only I and a few others were confined to our beds. Yet I do not for an hour wish myself back into my valley of sorrow. The voyage of life often leads over heights, but the harder the climbing the greater the joy after reaching the goal. Everything bears witness to God's wisdom. When one has always partaken of the good then there is no longer pleasure in its enjoyment. We have thus begun June well, and hope to see its end as good, for then I trust we will be on the land. The second is like yesterday clear and bright with good winds. I was enough better to be able to work, for the people pressed me much for tinware. The third was also pretty fair. We have had it quite warm for several days so that we sweat in our close berths without covering. We imagined we scented American air.
Today the 4th we made less progress, yet some, for we had only side winds. This evening we again had an unusual incident. The wife of Hilarius Wild of Schwanden who was pregnant suffered pain all day, her husband asked if possibly they were pains of labor, she said it could hardly be as the time of her delivery was not until August, but this evening she was delivered of a premature but living child. It lived until morning the 5th, when it died and was
This morning there happened an unpleasant dispute between the leaders, and some of our parish members, who had all along distinguished themselves by their selfish lawless conduct. I need not name them they are already known. They cursed continually at the committee, although that is to blame for our wretched condition yet not maliciously or willfully so, but because of their inexperience. It is surely to be believed that in another year such an undertaking would be better organized, and cursing does not mend the matter; on the contrary makes it worse by still more embittering our already embittered life. It is certainly impossible where there are so many different characters and tempers, to remove all cause of complaint. Had we patience, good sense and mutual confidence things would go better. We could in a gentle manner exhort and teach each other, and not at the slightest obstacles give forth the most shocking oaths and curses, the latter only increases the mutual distrust and hate, especially where, like sparks
On the 11th it was fair with but little wind, so we did not get ahead at all and that is wearisome. On the 12 we had wind enough and too much, causing a heavy storm. In the first days of our voyage when the ship was tossing in such a way, no one dared to think of cooking, we rather suffered intense hunger, now we are accustomed to it no one cares and spite of the storm cooking goes on all day. The kettles were bound fast to keep them in place. In the night of 12 to 13 the storm became worse so that trunks that had been tied and fastened with ropes were torn from their fastenings and rolled over and over. We had to grasp hold of our berths with all our power to keep ourselves from being thrown about. On the 13th again but little wind; it is very discouraging to have one day storm and next day nearly entire calm, for in neither condition is there the progress we so much wish. On the 14th it is again better. This day the ship flew so that no steamship could have exceeded our speed. We saw a ship that was coming from America but soon lost sight of it, on the whole voyage we saw many ships but none came so close as to enable us to speak with them even with the trumpet which Captains of ships use. On the 15th did not run so well; made fair progress in the morning but no headway at all after noon. We saw a fine fish swimming around the ship, a sailor tied a piece of pork on a line and coaxed it and the mate stood with a spear ready to strike, as it came near he threw with steady hand and the points went into the middle of the fish's body; it was a master throw. It was drawn up on deck; it was beautiful animal weighing about 14 lbs; its green and yellow
21
On the 17th had some wind, and on the 18th still better. We believe and hope to see land if the wind remains so favorable until next morning. We have so much more cause to long for the desired shore because this day our principal food, the potatoes, were all consumed, and we fear we shall suffer hunger if fate keeps us much longer on the Sea. For one can hardly support life with the portions of other food given us. We could have had potatoes for a much longer time if they had been sound at first. They rotted in the hold and a terrible stench arises from them; it is as if there was a rotting manure heap and yet so driven by want were we that we ventured at the disgusting work of sorting and picking out the few sound ones from the rotten mass. We had now to make use of the horse food otherwise known as hard tack (Zweiback) [twice-baked] already described, and I look on with a sad smile to see human beings for hours whetting their teeth in endeavor to bite and chew it; those who possessed good teeth got along fairly but those not so fortunate would get hungrier as they tried to chew it. It filled the stomach but contained little nutriment. 19th the hope to see land this morning was not fulfilled although we sailed well all night. It is now again nearly complete calm. A few days since we made an unpleasant discovery which very much increased our longing to get on land. I hardly dare to write it; body lice in great number have shown themselves on some of the less cleanly, and it is feared that they will so spread as to infest all of the passengers unless all possible preventive means are taken. It would be anything but a pleasant companionship. For this reason I at once had my long hair cut, for as soon as I heard of the presence of these unclean guests I imagined I was infested, but to my joy the fear was groundless. The one who bred this unwelcome population was from the proud town of Ennenda, his name
This evening the little son Rudolf of Henry Hoesli of Diessbach died; he declined a long time and suffered from convulsions. It was sad to see him when sick and not be able to give him any relief. He was on the morning of the 20th with the customary services committed to the waves; we sang the 138 Hymn. Myself and every feeling person can imagine how painful it must be for parents who have loved a child to commit it to the watery elements. We that were born and brought up on the land are unused to such disposition. We think it more comforting to intrust our dead to mother earth on firm land, but when one considers that the water as well as the land is a creation of God and that finally on the day of judgement the reward follows the deeds, then it can make no difference when, where, or how, we must die. If we have only lived so as to be ready, it is well. The goodness of God made itself evident in the case of Barbara, the mother of the dead child; her husband confined to his bed by sickness could give her no assistance in the care of the child. Other friends were weak and seasick and she alone had to watch and care for the dying one, many a time when no one else could venture on deck in the fierce storm, in greatest danger of being thrown down and washed overboard, she went to cook some warm food for her beloved child. This day we again got along swiftly, the wind blew strong and steady from the rear, and I just have heard the report that the Captain has said that even with moderately favorable wind we would see land tomorrow afternoon. How glad we would be if it prove true.
On the 21st our hope is again cheated. No America in sight yet. I have determined to believe no more reports; what the eyes see the heart believes. I shall trust only my own eyes. This afternoon it rained harder than I ever saw it before; it ran in streams for an hour, and it was sultry to suffocation, all of the passengers below crowded for air to the openings. It is remarkable to notice for us, that
On the 22nd again a weary Sunday. The people at home are no doubt walking through fields and meadows, stretching the potato tops to mark their growth. In our thoughts we wish ourselves there for a few hours. Weak winds in the morning, stronger in the afternoon, still no land in sight. On the 23rd a heavy storm tossed us around considerably. On the 24th a ship coming from America came at a signal from our Captain so near that they could speak with trumpets with each other. I could not understand English but gathered that the ship was bound for France. Many people were on board. Afternoon another met and passed us. The splendid wind chased our ship through the waves like the best steamer, let us see if there is nothing new in sight by morning. 25th and 26th both days nearly total calm, so near to land and not be able to move from the spot is nearly unendurable.
The 27th the most joyful day of the whole ocean voyage; about 10 A.M. a coasting vessel came up and they asked our Captain if we were in want of provisions. I presume the Captain answered he was not for the boat left us again. About 11 o'clock the joyful cry Land! was heard. All who were not already on deck streamed up, myself among the latter, and really we saw what resembled a row of great trees. The American flag was at once hoisted on the foremast; every body expressed their gladness and thanked God, and I believe most sincerely from their hearts, for whoever has lived through 46 days of such misery, even the most hardened is glad to be redeemed. We waited with impatience until the expected pilot should come who was to guide our ship to the coast. At last we saw a coast vessel approach us with lightning speed and at 6 P.M. the man boarded our ship; the boat that brought him turned and with all speed
On the 28th, this morning, my eagerness drove me on deck at half past three, it was quite dark so that only the light houses on both sides were visible which guide the voyagers safely along the dangerous coast. The first mate in reply to my question when we would arrive at Baltimore said if the wind holds well we would be there this evening. He said he had never sailed so swift during the whole voyage as now, and indeed, it is astonishing what speed the wind awakens when it comes from the right quarter; but one can imagine when 16 sails great and small are plump full, that it makes power that would tear down great cliffs. This morning we asked to be allowed to gather and keep the cooked, uneaten food. The answer was that first we were to throw overboard our bedding straw, pull down the berths that had been fastened, and cleanse the ship. This order made motion; every one who had hands laid on with hatchet and hammer and in two hours all of the 88 berths were laid aside; now we wanted the promised food; there was considerable commotion when the mate declared that as we wanted to draw rations before usual time each must sign a receipt therefor. He had strict orders to issue food only once a week on Tuesdays, and as we were now only in the middle of the week since the last ration day, he could only issue for a half week; well, we had to be satisfied with that much. In the afternoon the wind slackened, and the evening brought even head wind, so that the anchors had to be thrown. We remained the whole night in this condition with no straw or berths to lie in, so some slept on their trunks and others on the floors.
On the 29th morning the anchors were hoisted again, and we sailed ahead with light winds until 5. P.M. when the anchors were again thrown as a heavy shower broke upon us, but had to remain so only an hour as the shower passed
On the morning of the 30th everyone put on their best clothes; the leaders intended to call on August Dieselhorst to whom we were consigned by the scoundrelly shippers in Amsterdam, but we had a lack of confidence in the ability of the leaders, justified by our experience, so that we decided to elect a committee of three to join the leaders & to take part in their work. I was one of those so selected. We went together to said agent, but we accomplished nothing, he charged us eight dollars per head to St. Louis. We ascertained that he had no authority to contract passage farther than Pittsburgh and there we would again have to make a new contract; rather than run the risk of losing a portion of our passage money by charges from other shippers, we declined to further deal with this man. We made inquiries for the firm which was to pay us the reserve fund promised us at Amsterdam by Councillor Jenny. We found the firm but they knew nothing of any fund to be paid us, which ignorance we invariably find, when anything for our advantage is sought. This afternoon we received notice to remove our baggage from the ship at once or it would be thrown overboard. We went at it head over heels, and loaded it and carried it on carts to our lodgings. I then wished I had not so much baggage, as it was a very great trouble. I lodged with a German landlord named Konrad
June is now ended. When I closed my diary for May I thought that by this time we would be on the land which has been bought for us, but of course it was a vain hope. On the 1st of July all of the men of our company went on a hill near the city where we discussed our further plans, especially as to which of the three shippers who desired to ship us we should entrust ourselves. Leader Grob showed their references and it was resolved that the committee last formed, of which I was one, should conclude a contract with a Jew Abraham Cuyk. Everything was arranged to save money; we paid for each person 20 francs, children from 4 to 12 two for one, and under 4 free. It is understood that we provide our own food. Our baggage was weighed and we had to pay $1.00 per hundred for all over 100 lbs. to each person, these outlays exhausted our treasury. This day we saw in Baltimore a ceremony performed such as none of us had ever seen. The great general and late president Jackson who had performed great deeds for the liberty of America had died, and these were his funeral obsequies, seven thousand horsemen in double ranks, the first column in black pants and vests and white jackets trimmed with black ribbons and crape rode on splendid white horses, the officers at the front. Column after column rode, each with like colored horses and clothing, and splendid processions followed each other the whole day. The principal doings I did not see, but read about them in the newspapers, but my pocket diary would not have room for the description. Honor to the great man who like Cincinnatus of old Roman times was several times called from the plow to head the armies of the nation and
The night of 1st July to 2nd will never be forgotten by me. I was suddenly attacked with sickness coupled with terrible pains in my bowels so that I thought I should die. I was easier in the morning but utterly weak. The 3d morning we bade farewell to those left behind and went to the railroad a league from the city; this day was the gladdest and best of the whole voyage until now. The first time in our lives riding on a railroad we never tired of seeing the sights. We rode with the speed of the wind through splendid country and shaded valleys—the eyes rejoiced in the many pleasant changes; the rich grain fields, the fine orchards, the tasty dwellings proclaimed to us American comfort and wealth and so controlled by these sensations we came in the evening to the Susquehanna river. There we got out of the cars and passed over a bridge two miles in length into the town of Columbia, which lay on the opposite shore. We went to the Golden Eagle tavern where we had supper at 14 cents per person. After supper until late at night we had to perform the hard labor of carrying our baggage from the railroad to the Canal boats which were to bring us to Pittsburgh. We slept in the boats the same night, but how,—not much better than if we were a flock of sheep. One may imagine how 30 to 35 human beings were pressed like herrings into a space 12 by 7 feet, many had no room even to sit and were obliged to stand all night as if they were sentenced to the stocks.
On the 3d July we left Columbia. Each of our boats was
So came we Sunday morning the 6th of July at 9 A.M. to Hollidaysburg. I cannot name all the towns and villages we passed. At this place we lay the whole day because on Sundays all business rests. We cooked in the open air on fireplaces hastily erected, and prepared sufficient food to last us next day, for the Canal stops here and our boats with all therein are loaded on railroad wagons,
Railroads of the U. S. (Phila., 1868), pp. 87, 88. Flint says: “There were two very long incline planes, at the top of each of which two stationary engines were placed, and were worked with the usual endless rope. Four cars were drawn up and four were let down at the same time. A safety-car attended each trip, and could stop all the cars, in case of accident to the rope.”—
Ed.
The 8th, nothing of interest happened; we were kept busy admiring the gigantic work of man over which we were passing—tunnels through solid rock which took 5 minutes to pass, lined partly with natural rock, partly with hewn stone, alternated with bridges over great streams—all works of which Europe has no idea. Sometimes the route is through lovely wooded valleys, again over smiling regions where log houses alternate with splendid dwellings, in front of which we frequently see ladies in bonnets and fine clothes, milking cows; but so far as I could observe that is about all the work they do, for we saw even in the log houses such persons sitting in rocking chairs clad in bonnet and shawl with folded arms like grand ladies.
On the 9th we had a revolt with the crew. Some of our people had stepped off to buy food, and as the boats did not stop for such purposes they naturally fell behind so as to cause them more than two miles quick marching to catch up. When they came they requested that the boat be hauled near shore so they could jump aboard; the boatmen refused; we insisted with a great deal of noise and I was about to cut the draw rope with a hatchet when the crew concluded to grant the request; afterward we were shown more consideration. This evening we arrived at Pittsburgh; as we floated into the city our singers sang several Swiss songs which attracted hundreds of people to the border of the canal and to the windows of the adjoining houses.
On the 10th, forenoon, we viewed the city. It is laid out on a grand scale—broad streets with walks on each side, splendid churches of which the English Catholic is the finest. It is a grand temple built of hewn stone, with a fiat roof surrounded by a gallery and a great copper dome in the middle; it is situated on a height and overlooks the whole
I found Mr. Jost Ruch from Mitlödi [in Glarus], an old friend; he is a milkman, he brought me and wife and another friend Barbara Blesi; he treated us to good wine in a hotel and kindly invited us to go with him to his house a mile from the city. After much search we finally found the Grob Bros. and required them to give an account of our regular and extra expenses so far. They made a claim on our Company for 32 florins due them, we demanded at first and wanted vouchers for this claim which they could not furnish, but after much talk the amount not being for any one individual to pay but by the Company, it was finally allowed and paid. After this was settled we discussed as to how the remaining 85 florins were to be disposed of; the direction of the giver was that it should be expended for the benefit of the most needy. I with others were for the carrying out of these directions, but that was the hardest task of the whole voyage to so expend it. To be sure there were several families entirely destitute of money, and in consequence had to remain in Pittsburgh; but among those were such as had lived better during the whole voyage than the others, who paid for sleeping in soft beds while others more provident were satisfied to lie on hard berths. It was finally decided to divide it equally among all, which gave each person 37 ½ kreuzer [18 8/☆ cents]. I and family and a number of others went to Mr. Ruch's place and were entertained with most generous hospitality with the best in the land. At dusk we returned to the River and she Steamboat where we had already taken lodgings, although [we had] not yet contracted for passage. Had just got on board when the wife of J. C
On the 11th, morning I again visited Mr. Ruch accompanied by Fr. Legler, Jr. to get my family which had remained there. We had an American breakfast and then all returned and embarked on the steamer or rather in the purgatory. But before writing further I must describe Mr. Ruch. In the year 1817, driven by poverty from his birthplace Mitlödi he served as servant nine years until he had saved some money, then he bought land and he now owns $300,000 of property and a homestead on an elevation surrounded by fine gardens that would be the envy of many a German nobleman. Inside one would hardly imagine himself in the abode of a farmer, but in that of a grand capitalist; from the threshold to the roof the floors and stairs
This day we made a contract with our Captain to carry us to St. Louis at the rate of 2 dollars for each person over 14 years, 8 to 14 counted two for one, under 8 free, with 100 pounds baggage free for each full passenger. We laid in provisions for a couple of days and towards evening left the city. We steamed pretty fast until 10 P.M. when the boat halted until morning.
On the 12th—Again steamed along; in the forenoon our boat ran into another, we supposed from the crash everything was in pieces; we found out it was done intentionally because of rivalry. This does not occur seldom, that they greet each other by destroying each other. Luckily our boat remained the victor this time, although damaged some. It is unpardonable that the crew should perform such dangerous feats and risk the lives of 250 people on this boat. It is said to be prohibited by a penalty of $500 but they
On the 14th forenoon, we came again on the boat, which had during the night been moved about a gunshot distance, with greatest exertions of men and steampower, so that it had water to float in; we then floated down the Ohio. Our baggage
15th This day the Captain made inquiries for me on the boat. I found him on the deck busy with a day book; he sat down by me with an interpreter and put a hundred questions to me. Why had we come to this country? How large was our country? How formed, what were its products, what wages? How was the climate? What our religion, government, laws etc. During the whole conversation he expressed a pitying astonishment. No wonder, said he, that so many thousand human beings come to this country. lie said further, a day laborer can earn so much here in a month that he can buy a piece of land larger than many a husbandman has with us. I also put several questions to him, principally referring to our company. He said he had heard our people had but little money left, but as our land had already been bought for us we had not that to provide for, so that there was no risk of our starving; to be sure our beginnings would be hard, and he deemed it better that we stay in St. Louis and get work of which there was plenty, then in the next spring go on our land with more means and experience. And he strongly endorsed what we had often before heard, that 20 acres was little better than nothing, that it would not pay the labor to build a house and barn on such a small tract. And he strongly urged upon me the unwisdom of going upon land with such a trade as I had, which he counted one of the best in America; and with which I could earn $2.00 per day in St. Louis. That with my slight body and strength I would be too weak to clear the wilderness. That I should work for wages a
16th During yesterday's conversation the Captain told me that we were all to land today, that I should so inform the passengers so that he might count them, and this took place today. We paid him one dollar per person and he gave each a ticket to Cincinnati; today we arrived at Portsmouth and halted but 20 minutes, so we saw nothing of the town except some houses from the river. Many of them were like palaces. We in haste bought some food and ran on board again for no one desired to get left.
17th This morning at two o'clock we arrived at Cincinnati. We had thought that the same boat that brought us from Pittsburgh would take us to St. Louis. We had made the contract with the Captain to the latter place but it was announced that our boat went no farther and our contract was cancelled. So we sought to get passage on another vessel. I went on one, and found the mate who spoke very good German, and made a contract
CONTRACT WITH RIVER CAPTAIN, The Captain of the Cincinnati Steamboat undertakes the Swiss Company under the following conditions: Persons over 14 years $2.00 Children under 14 to 8 years reckoned 2 for one person, and under 8 years free. In consideration therefor the Captain binds himself to bring us as speedily as possible to St. Louis, and we are also assured a place for cooking and sleeping also wood and light; each person has 100lbs baggage free, the overweight must be paid at 30 cts per cwt. The one-half of passage money will be paid in Pittsburgh, the 2nd half in St. Louis after proper fulfillment of the contract, This con tract shall be drawn in writing and each party receives copy thereof. [Not signed.] Cincinnati, July 17/45. The undersigned Captain of the boat Wing and Wing has concluded a firm contract with divers families for St. Louis. Prices as follows Each person pays one dollar Children from 11 to 14 half, all under 11 free, each person has 100 lbs baggage free, children who pay, 50 lbs. the overweight 20 cts per cwt. the passage must be paid by the passengers when we arrive 25 miles from St. Louis.
Ed.James Bugler, Capt.
The 18th Today I looked around some in the City; it is one of the finest and largest in the United States; the streets are paved and broad with walks on each side over which cloths are stretched; they cross each other at right angles. The houses are all built of brick & furnished with extravagant splendor. I found none in which anything could not be bought; the shops are termed stores, and are filled with goods of such quantity and splendor as to excel even the
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Meat of all kinds is very cheap here, for 50 cents one can get a fair small dressed sheep, smoked hams 6 and 8 cts lb. and it is said that each winter over 100,000 hogs are slaughtered—the heads and insides are all thrown away. A half gallon of grain brandy costs only 16 cents; a cent is the same as a Zurich Schilling, but wine is dear because it all comes from Europe—of course we did not indulge in any. The beer is sweet and 3 cents a glass, but I did not like it.
On the 19th. Today our boat the
Wing and Wing
left about 11 A.M. The steersman said it went very fast and that it would catch up to those who had left the day before. This morning our company was again increased by a new member. Rudolf Stauffacher's wife gave birth to a boy, so quietly that persons quite close by neither heard or saw anything of the event, until the child was in the world. i human being can exert great control when she must and will; this is the third birth on our voyage and in all cases the event was quiet, whereas at home there would have been a powerful noise. The cheapness of food yesterday had tempted many to buy a large supply of fresh meat, but today the greater portion had to be thrown into the river because of the intense heat causing decomposition and a horrid stench. For the last two nights we have had that plague of America, the Mosquitoes. Many of our people are so full of scratches and swelling as to be nearly unrecognizable. Others have swollen hands and feet from the same cause. They are small long legged flies which only come at night. This evening we came to the town of Madison, in Indiana. We could not get into it because halt was only made to take some freight on board. The prospect towards the river shows splendor and wealth like all American cities.
The 20th. This morning just before dawn we arrived at Louisville, a blooming city in Kentucky, four of us went into the city and in order to save space in my diary will remark that what I have said about other American cities applies here. From this place down for two miles, the Ohio is not navigable, therefore a canal was built which carries the largest steamers, and this 12 mile Canal has cost more money than all the highways in Glarus Land; its bed throughout is blasted in the solid rock and on this rock there are walls on each side 8 to 10 feet high, on top of that there is a cemented embankment over 50 feet wide. A splendid bridge of three arches built of hewn stone crosses it, and near its outlet into the Ohio are three locks close together so that the largest vessel can be raised or lowered 30 feet; just now the water is very low in the canal and our men, women and children had to travel the whole distance on shore to the outlet; but we had plenty of time as it took the boat two hours to make the distance, for one of the wheels was broken on the rocks and it had to be pulled most of the way.
The 21st. We had again the luck to run aground today, but got off in three hours and steamed bravely farther.
The 22nd. Today about 10 A.M. we steamed into the Mississippi, the water is very muddy and full of drift wood, just like the forest torrents after a heavy rain. If I could wish all the wood I see stranded on the sand bars, into the parish of Diessbach, they would have no need for many years to distribute their Beech parcels. Likewise if I could distribute to our poor at home all of the food that is thrown away on the steamers, we would need no poorhouse or poor act, for no food is served the second time—all that is not eaten the first time is thrown away, not only on the vessels but also in hotels and dwellings. A proof that there is not only enough, but the greatest overflow in this country. Today the first mate, who speaks German well, requested me to give him a full list of our people. I made him a table according to families and age, and who was to pay full or half fare or were free.
The 23rd. The mate called me and I went with him to collect the fares; this done I asked him for a receipt; he said he could give me one as soon as the baggage was weighed and payment made for extra weight. Afternoon it was weighed and we had in all about 1800 lbs extra. We arrived this evening at St. Louis, and many Glarus people who lived there greeted us kindly, C. Wild, Henry Hosly, Fr. Blesi, Paulus Kundert; Fr. Schesser most interested me.
On the 24th. This morning there were lively times on the vessel, everything was packed into trunks and boxes and we put on our best clothes and I went with my family to visit C. Wild, but as we came into his house we found that his wife was sick unto death and he could therefore in no way entertain us, so full of grief was he. He owns a new house in a line part of the city and has a fine fountain with good water. We returned to the city and met H. Duerst with our baggage. I was glad to meet him and we rented a room wherein three families of us lived, cooked and slept. We paid $2.00 for a month in advance, the same if we only occupied it 8 days. The other families are scattered here and there in groups of two and three.
On the 25th we all met together and held counsel as to our future movements, as we had not here found the experts sent to select our lands. There was however a letter from Messrs. H. & W. Blumer [of Allentown, Pa. ], which informed us that the two experts, in Company with a Mr. Frey who had been added by Blumer, were in Peru, Illinois. So our company decided to send two men there and these two were Paulus Grob and myself. We went immediately to the river inquired after a steamer bound for that region. We found one which however only went as far as Peoria, 70 miles this side of Peru, as owing to the low water none could go farther. We make a contract to take us both to Peoria for $3.00; and in case we returned and got passage for all of our people, that amount was to be deducted from the passage money. We informed our company and they were satisfied with the bargain. We reckoned that both of us would need 16 5-franc pieces for
On the 26th. This morning the Diessbachers all came to me at my lodgings and declared if the others would not assist they would send one or two men alone. I told them I dare not venture such a trip alone. We went again to the others and agreed as before to send two. So we again went to the river and engaged passage on another boat going that way; it is entirely new and is to make its first trip and we are its first passengers.
On the 27th. We paid our passage $3.00 this morning to Peoria, and left the Mississippi and entered the Illinois River.
28th. This forenoon we started and it took four hours of hard work to move the boat from the spot. Much of the freight Salt, Whiskey and Sugar had to be loaded on a flat boat. In the night the Mosquitoes tormented us so that we could not close our eyes from night till morning. My hands were all swollen as if I had the worst kind of itch. This evening we asked of the Captain, knowing that there were only two or three cabin passengers, if he could not for small recompense allow us to sleep in a little room, as we had no bedding at all and had for two nights slept on floors and boxes without a particle of bedding. He let us know that if each paid one dollar he would provide beds for us. Of course we could not accept this, as we were now travelling at the expense of poor families. Thereupon a German, who had however been here over 40 years, gave us some bedding to use. We had hardly laid down when the boat again got stuck. Then arose a terrible thunder storm such as only America can produce. One peal followed another
29th Not until 9 A.M. today was it possible to move our boat slowly from the spot; we then steamed with various. degrees of speed until at 3 P.M. we again stranded. We tried our utmost and every one who had hands worked at the windlass but all in vain; towards evening another steamer came towards us which also ran aground, but through the efforts of their crew were able to get off in two hours. Both Grob and I looked longingly at the vessel for we believed it possible that Judge Duerst might be on it, but although the two boats came so close as to touch we were unable to discover him. A dreary impatience possessed us because of our delay; we laid us down but little sleep came into my eyes, partly because of the Mosquitoes, but principally because of the many people almost destitute of everything, that were waiting for our tidings at St. Louis. And we are having such a tedious trip.
30th. This morning all of the power and muscle on the boat was again applied to get us off. The wood was all used up, and we all went into the woods, the Captain included, and carried out wood; the steam power was raised to the highest point and about ten o'clock we again moved, but only four hours did fortune fever us; at two o'clock we were again stuck but only for an hour; towards evening we reached the village of Pekin and made ½ hour's halt; we used the time to purchase from a German, Swiss cheese, but made in America, and bread, for we had not provided enough in St. Louis for us, and on the boat food was too dear. We started and hoped to be in Peoria for night, but we stuck once more 5 miles from that place.
31st. Today we rose at dawn and as our boat was aground as if it had grown there, we went on a fiat boat also the crew; but you can imagine what snail's pace it was—a boat manned by only eight men loaded with many tons of freight to row against the stream; and some of them so drunk as
August 1st. This morning I went to the German tailor for whom I mended three tin dishes, while my companion Grob wrote a letter to St. Louis to report our trip so far. This tailor named Brodbeck urged me to settle here because there was no tinner here and the town was growing and much building was done. That although he was a tailor he had often mended tinware for farmers, for which they paid well; and as I understood working in copper and iron, I would find a bright future. I might first rent a few acres then buy. That he also came poor into this country and now had 2 cows, 4 calves, Hogs and a horse, a pretty house, and a good young wife, but I could not stay. We went always on foot, for the fare for us both was $5.00 to Peru on the stage. Our road led us through regions that would rejoice the eye of the most despondent, many miles over the Prairies on which countless herds of cattle could have bathed in the thick rich grass. Then again through pleasant woods, good water everywhere and pure air, here and there a settler; at times we stopped and asked for and received buttermilk. We strode forward stoutly, neither of us quite sure that
On the third of August arrived at Peru, and stopped with a German cooper and had dinner; afterwards went to the post office and made inquiries about the experts; the postmaster informed us that the three men had gone to Wisconsin
On the 4th my companions Grob and Freuler went out about a mile to engage a farmer if possible who would carry us for less money than the stage, but the farmer had other uses for his horses and another asked 30 dollars. So we found it best to take the stage, where we each paid $3.18, At 8 A. M., we left in an old stage which ought long since to have been retired; besides us three there was a gentleman, his wife and son; we rode in this ancient chest about 16 miles where the horses and stage were changed, but such a miserable conveyance, a farmer's wagon with a torn cover of the kind that gypsies use with us, and a road on which God's mercy was needed; the horses were changed every five hours; for these, it is a pity that they cannot run on a Glarus road. In America everything is the opposite of Switzerland,—here the horses excel those of the noblest lord, but the most miserable beggarly vehicles; there, elegant carriages, but mostly poor mean horses; when the mail arrived at Glarus the horses nearly fell from exhaustion; here, at the end of their stage, one could hardly hold
On the 5th at 3 A.M. we again started in a better wagon and again splendid horses; and at 8 A.M. arrived at Freeport where we ate a hearty breakfast and only 25 cents for all three. In Freeport we had a still better wagon and three more passengers, of whom two were from Pennsylvania and could speak good German. They commended our project very much, they assured us that we would succeed especially well in the manner in which we had planned. We arrived at a station near dark, which lies lonely near a wood, but in which we had a supper at a price equal to that of the Hotel Bauer, in Zurich. Changed horses and wagons and again rattled with great speed until we reached Galena, where we got out in a heavy storm and remained at the stage station over night.
Next morn. the 6th, we had breakfast at a German tavern. Yesterday we rode through a most charming country; even the two Pennsylvanians greatly admired it and said that the people in Pa. had no conception of its great beauty—how much less those in Germany. About 12 o'clock we arrived on foot at Apple River 10 miles from Galena; here we are already in Wisconsin Territory. Lead is mined everywhere,
On the 7th We did not wait for our teamster this morning, but left at 4 A.M. and walked the distance of twelve miles to Mineral Point by 9 o'clock, and had breakfast with a farmer on the way. After arriving at Mineral Point we again made inquiries for the experts and found that they had bought land 30 miles from here, and were waiting with longing for us, for they had received no news at all from or concerning us. We resolved therefore to travel there as the object of our trip was there—namely, the finding of the experts. A kindly German made inquiries for a conveyance for us, for in a sparsely settled country like this where one sees no houses often for 6 leagues, it is not well to travel on foot especially when one is in haste as we are. We ate dinner and asked if the team were ready; the answer came that we must first pay eight dollars before a start would be made. This perplexed us. We had not seen any money for a long time, and Freuler had only a 20-franc piece left, which we would need for food on the way. So we went to our German and unfolded our condition to him, for we wanted to fulfill our commission at all hazards, even to selling the coats from our backs for the means; but this honest, kindly German did not desert us in our need, he gave his written security for us, and on this they drove off with us. After riding 25 miles we came to a lonely house where we staid over night.
They had told us at Mineral Point that the experts were located only 6 miles from this place, but the people here said it was 20 miles or more further, and it almost appeared
On the 9th of August we, Judge Duerst and I, rode away, to bring our people from St. Louis to the settlement with a Mr. Rodolf a Swiss from Aargau who had been here to assist our experts for several days. He had been their
post. He advised the Swiss colonists; and his brother Frederick entertained them at the family farm on which the Rodolfs had settled in 1834.—
Ed.
We staid there over night and the next morning on the 10th went afoot to Galena where we arrived in the evening after a hard march; this same evening we went to the river to see about a steamer; there were two but both were bound up the river; on one of them however we learned that another would arrive in the night to return tomorrow to St. Louis. We went to get some much needed rest, especially I, who from the hardships undergone had a severe dysentery which has much weakened me.
On the evening of the 11th we really saw from the garret window where we three had slept on a straw tick, that another steamer had arrived. We hurried to get there but I had not proceeded more than half way, having been delayed, when to my glad astonishment I saw Judge Duerst completely surrounded by our people; what a scene that was!
Wis. Hist. Colls., xi, pp. 359, 360. The remainder of the party, left in St. Louis, alarmed at the long absence of Mathias Duerst and Paulus Grob, had engaged passage to Galena, happening to arrive there on the evening before Judge Nicholas Duerst had reached that town to engage passage to St. Louis, to escort them to Wisconsin.—
Ed.Fridolin Streiff, a New Glarus Pioneer
(From photograph loaned by John Luchsinger.)
On the morning of the 12th, again went forward until we came to a village which I recognized. We would have liked to leap for joy, but our weary legs did not carry out our desire. Baltz Duerst especially had been ill the day before and today was worse, and had he not at home been hardened by excessive labor, he would have succumbed. We
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